GX590 Spot Welder - Aliexpress - Y-CX0006D

Spot Welder GX590 - Aliexpress spot welder not working after assembly. No burnt components or defective solder joints. Digital display functions and settings can be accessed but device will not spot weld at all.

[@arturaho4393]

You need installed Jack connector of left side board for pedal. Because this jack included inside signal switch. Jou need installed this jack plug connector or 0 ohm resistor or solderspot on the board.

[@mtnshadid]

If your setting is set to A-1 mean automatic mode which require to have the jack Connector to act as 0 ohm resistor.

[@heidenburg5445]

Mine does this after I think I blew a mosfet. Check to see if the mosfets are shorting. When it wasnt broken, it was shooting full power and blasting my nickel strips with no spot weld delay. I think this thing is built very poorly.

[@zaidin101]

A0 P-3 with small moto battery runs.

[@thierryvideosfreefr]

I also bought the same model : be very carefull of short circuit when you assemble it : The Ring terminal and the nut can touch the near electric track, and the spacer also (near Input -) !!! I needed to reduce them, and add a plastic ring between the spacer, and connect on the reverse side of the printed board ! after that it works (without footswitch) but my small battery is old and only give 17Ah so the connection is very poor. I will retry with a stronger battery (or buy a spot welder with integrated battery which has better feedbacks that this one...)

[@user-tc4nw7fu5ｘ]

hello Did it come with a 3-pin DC jack for use with a footswitch? Please be sure to install this This DC jack has a switch that detects plug insertion If the plug is not inserted, 2 out of 3 pins will be shorted maybe this is the reason

[@lancelink88]

OK thanks I'll solder in the foot switch in and give it a try. But I didn't think that was necessary for automatic operation?

[@user-tc4nw7fu5ｘ]

@@lancelink88 If the DC jack is not installed, it should be in manual mode. So I think that it does not work in automatic mode Please check the continuity of the 3 pins after installing Unplugging and plugging in the connector should change the behavior

[@lancelink88]

The PCB is the same I assume if you buy the full version or the automatic version. Setting A1 is the automatic mode. If you buy the automatic version you don't get the foot switch plug. Anyway I'll solder in the 3 pin connector for the foot switch and let you know. Thanks

[@user-tc4nw7fu5ｘ]

@@lancelink88 i.imgur.com/Tjb5mNK.jpeg

[@user-tc4nw7fu5ｘ]

If you don't need a dc jack, shorting 2 and 3 should put it into auto mode. 2 and 3 open for manual mode I think it is correct to reverse this circuit design

[@Thingamajigs]

just got one of these. hooked it up to a 100ah leisure battery and the weld it did near blew a hole in my test 18650 cell - this was on lowest setting possible too! scary thing to use imo. Clearly the battery im running from is too powerful for it. I also read about a few horror stories regarding these, such as them getting stuck on if you use it with a slightly flat battery, it screws with the onboard circuitry and leaves it stuck on, arcing away. i'm going to be testing mine out further with a much smaller lipo cell 3s 5000mah and seeing how it copes. how have you gotten on with it over the last 4 months since posting the video/finding a fix with the DC connector?

[@philsson]

I got mine today and tested first on 4S and it scared me to death on d01 and P1. Even on 3S it blew big holes right through the nickle strip. Any advice? Think I'm applying for a refund

[@Thingamajigs]

@@philsson bin it, it's junk.

[@philsson]

@@Thingamajigs what would you recommend instead? I'm looking to start spot welding some smaller 18650 2S packs to begin with.

[@Thingamajigs]

@@philsson KWeld is really the only thing avaiable that wont blow up itself/you/your pack

[@philsson]

@@Thingamajigs 👍 thanks for the reply. Will check it out

[@RobertRafai]

I made mine to work with motorbike battery, same as yours, 12v 14AH and worked perfectly.

[@856Dropout]

Mine did the same thing with the tx60 connector, I switch to the pads and it worked fine.

[@myhomelab]

Pads mean direct wire used in board?

[@856Dropout]

@@myhomelab yes

[@5b4aezmarinoscyprus71]

Question: is there anyone managed to design or download a 3D enclosure for this device...

[@wakeelshah]

Solder the output jack jack it will solve your problem

[@jomar1371]

to wrk need battery that have more ampere its give more power solve the problem.

[@Onkel.Moetrik]

Hi I just bought the same model, kkmoon fully assembled from factory and a complete kit. It just dont work. It seems that there is no power or amp when welding. Can't even make a tiny mark on the nickel strip. Besides that everything works correct, buzzer timer and auto start. Power from lead acid battery 12v 40ah. I did put a plug in the jack. Any ideas?

[@lancelink88]

I think that your battery is the problem. You need a high discharge rating of around 180 to 200ampers. 40ah is the total capacity of the battery but it is not an indication of the battery's discharge rating. I suggest that you buy a suitable LiPo battery ($30) with an XT60 connector.

[@Onkel.Moetrik]

It is a starter battery, it should be able to deliver at least 200 to 400 amp?

[@lancelink88]

@@Onkel.Moetrik If it doesn't work it isn't powerful enough. Maybe you are getting voltage drop, maybe your battery isn't fully charged, I don't know but car batteries are inferior to LiPo batteries with this welder.

[@jkjk-hj7hb]

Today have received my welder and have the same problem. Very weak spark Read all comments , shorted connectors 2 and 3 but no way... Did you fixed yours?

[@lancelink88]

Weak spark most likely means that your battery is insufficient in its discharge amperage to give you a strong spark.

[@jkjk-hj7hb]

Thank you for replay, will try another battery @@lancelink88

[@campbellmorrison8540]

But you havent got the trigger input installed?

[@lancelink88]

That's true. That will fix it.

[@rv.inciong4810]

Hi, is it ok to use high power Lipo battery? Like 7,100mAh 100c.

[@lancelink88]

As long as your battery is 3S and you start with the lowest setting (set to P-1 with power level set to say 02 out of 99) you should be OK. Test it, if that setting is too strong and burns your metal strip instead of a clean spot, then stop as it means your battery is too strong. I use LiPo 2,200mAh 130C and it is fine on P-1 at around 30. The main thing is that you start low and adjust upwards. If you start high you can damage your spot welder by overloading it.

[@rv.inciong4810]

@@lancelink88 Thanks. Mine arrived today. I tested it right away. I used LiPo 3s 2250mAh 60-130c (maximum discharge). It worked and its powerful. Thanks for your video and the comments. They guided me.

[@lancelink88]

@@rv.inciong4810 No worries, to get even better performance change the leads/electrodes as the leads are made of aluminium wire. Copper wire works way way better. Malectrics sell a set for Euro10 and they are excellent (AWG 7).

[@andreasmoll_0924]

Got a gx591 I have the exact same problem. The seller refuses to refund. I tried shorten the switch - nothing works I tried a 3s battery - nothing works... I tried a power suply 13v with dc dc buck converter - nothing works...

[@lancelink88]

Please read the comments you may be able to fix it. Have you soldered on the foot switch? That was my problem.

[@andreasmoll_0924]

@@lancelink88 like I said. It works even not with foot switch.

[@lancelink88]

@@andreasmoll_0924Ok well create an Aliexpress claim. You have 15 days from receipt to do that. I could ask you many questions, but they may just waste your time, without knowing what your problem is except for 'nothing works' its impossible to know.

[@andreasmoll_0924]

R15 = 100 Ω ?

[@CrazyChinese]

11.1V Lipo Battery 3S 60C 5000mAh Lipo

[@Onkel.Moetrik]

Hi I also bought 30 pcs 18650 cells 3000 mA. Can anyone suggest a schematic for a suitable powerbank for this welder?

[@lancelink88]

It really depends on the "C" rating of your cells. Ideally you want a "C" rating multiplied with your amper rating to be around 180. So 3000mah x 50C = 150 which would be a miniumum. To increas your cells total "C" rating you need to connect the cells in parallel. So you could have 3 cells (in series) x 2 in parallel for example (total 6 cells). Remember your voltage output must be under 14 volts.

[@Onkel.Moetrik]

Thank you, maxim. But why under 14 volt. Specs say that the welder can work up to 24 volt?

[@lancelink88]

@@Onkel.Moetrik I don't know what you are reading but this welder needs a Lipo 3S. I tried a 4S and it was too powerful for it to operate. Voltage needs to be between 12 and 14 volts.

[@Igor_MK]

FIX Resistor R13 101 100 omh

[@lancelink88]

I fixed the situation. See other comments related to bridging the foot switch contacts on the PCB.

[@marcelom3389]

It seems to me that you soldered the capacitor wrong, with the polarity reversed

[@lancelink88]

No the polarity of the capacitor is correct. The problem was with the foot switch connector not being attached, which is required even if the welder is set to auto mode. So I shorted out the foot switch connector and the welder works perfectly. Please see in the comments here for more information.

[@myhomelab]

​@@lancelink88both terminals of foot switches shorts with soldering you mean that?

[@lancelink88]

@@myhomelab Yes

[@myhomelab]

Please tell me where is foot switch in the pcb board?

[@mackubecka]

Hi anyone know what setting P-1, P-2, P3 means ???

[@lancelink88]

"P-1 P-2 P-3" correspond to the number of pulses per weld. P-1 = 1 pulse, P-2 = 2 pulses and P-3 = 3 pulses. You need an oscilliscope to see that as it is a millisecond pulse. If you use 1 pulse (P-1) on say 60 it will be equal to 2 pulses (P-2) on say 30 and 3 pulses (P-3) if you set the gear to 13 (P-3) on 3 pulses. So they are power level adjustments.

[@mackubecka]

@@lancelink88 Thank you very much. BTW I just received mine. I also ordered only automatic version, but mine is working without need to short 2-3 pins. Did you try to weld 0.3 mm nickel plate?

[@lancelink88]

@@mackubecka Hi, I ordered the full option model, which if you don't solder in the foot pedal needs a mod to make the auto mode work. I've only tried 0.2mm nickel which it does effortlessly. So I believe 0.3mm nickel should be capable on this device.

[@Oleg_EasyDIY]

you can find pulse durations table for P1, P2, P3 in the description in my video kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6GaYa2Phcp6iLs

[@Cooler044]

@@lancelink88 Hello! Which settings do you use to weld 0.2? I have tried to weld 0.15 nickel plated stripe to a food can (sanded the surface before tests) and my welder released magic smoke on p2-50. I have used a fully charged car battery (plenty of power) and this p2-50 settings were the first which showed something like normal spots that i could not tear without stripe remains on a can. Sadly it lasted about ~20-30 welds. (P.S. I have the same board but newer version with bigger transistors which were supposed to last longer...)

[@ImaginaPower]

Youvr blown your mosfets already man! So you want your money back now?! Learn hpw to use these stuff first and modify them for protecting the mosfeys forst. You have used too big of a car battery!

[@sebastienochart]

I have the exact same problem. The seller refuses to refund.

[@lancelink88]

Did you read the other comments here? My solution was to solder the foot switch connector to the spot welder motherboard.

[@sebastienochart]

@@lancelink88 Yes I do and my problem is not related to that. It does not work even with a pedal switch.

[@lancelink88]

@@sebastienochart Well it might be a number of things, a blown mofset is a common problem. Sorry I can't be of more assistance.

[@Rcfishingagadir]

​i just found why its switch foot plug....it must be pluged before you use it

[@lancelink88]

@@Rcfishingagadir Yes if you buy the foot switch model, but not if you buy the automatic model without the foot switch.