Hall Effect.....

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@OcRefrig 8 ай бұрын

Good video ! Note to self ... Check the flow of a Micro channel Condenser / Blow it backwards with dry nitrogen if u are replacing a compressor after a Nasty Burnout.

@heavydiesel 8 ай бұрын

I think its something to be aware of though its the first time I've seen it happen.

@OcRefrig 8 ай бұрын

@@heavydiesel Yea, Kinda makes sense if u get a stinky one. just another draw back of micro channel. should be easy enough. just pressurise liquid line after you remove high side from compressor. check flow coming out of hot gas line. Basically pressurize whole system with compressor removed and check flow at hot gas line. Blows any thing out that should not be in there. Probably a good Sop knowadays.

@jackfox2753 7 ай бұрын

We have the exact same problem on the same unit keeps cycling on low pressure. Its like the contacts have got stuck. Have told them its gonna be expensive to replace if they dont get engineer out soon

@heavydiesel 7 ай бұрын

People don't listen, all you can do is warn them and its up to them to do something about it.

@totalclima88 8 ай бұрын

Yes, every time replace microchannel condenser after compressor siezed. In automotive that is first step in every instalation guide ( no matter what compressor producer Denso, Sanden etc...). Replace microchannel condenser when replacing compressor. No excuse. But... such a sudden increase in pressure as in your case, I would not suspect as first a clogged microchannel condenser. Microchannel is several parallel sections connected. Even if 1 or 2 sections were 80% or even 95, even 100% clogged, we still have some free "culvert" (don't know correct word in English). This instantly pressure rise, looks rather like the ball stuck in one of the pipes 😂😂..In my experience, the best way to look for a clogged place is a thermal vision camera or basic thermo-couplers. Every drop in temperature = pressure drop, you can easy scan every 1 cm2 of the installation

@heavydiesel 8 ай бұрын

I hoped it was a shut ball valve to start with and tried it in both positions, sadly it wasn't that causing the problem! Its a 2.5hp compressor so doesn't take long to fill the short discharge line up to the HP switch tripping point.

@simplemind7532 8 ай бұрын

There is one of these at my corner shop and it does the stop start all the time...I told the owner that it will kill the compressor ...he called out an engineer and was told it was normal...

@heavydiesel 8 ай бұрын

Its not normal! Most compressors should only do a maximum of six to ten starts an hour, ideally with some run time to allow the start winding to cool off. They'll do more starts an hour without instantly dying but I think it takes a lot off their life.

@gerardomireles122 8 ай бұрын

Thanks again heavydiesel Very cool interesting Continue running What happened Cool thanks

@heavydiesel 8 ай бұрын

Pleased you found it interesting Gerardo

@mikeh6206 8 ай бұрын

What refrigerant?

@heavydiesel 8 ай бұрын

This is on R404A

@Archimedes_II 8 ай бұрын

I think all refrigeration engineers can rant all day long about this style of condenser unit. Everything being cramed on top of each other is a nightmare. Digital controllers, transducers, thermistors and ball valves that are difficult to access and carry out diagnostics. Whats wrong with a compressor with rotalocks, standard condenser coil, liquid receiver with a rotalock valve, flared drier, accumulator, pressure switch and contactor with overload. It seems easier to just change the whole condenser unit, than to change a compressor now, especially if you run into a disaster like blocked micro channels, which I never knew could happen. When you brazed your compressor, what rods did you use and why? I seem to struggle to get my rods to flow sometimes, even after cleaning the joints.

@heavydiesel 8 ай бұрын

For the compressor I unbrazed the original so had to use the same type of rod the factory did which was 40%ish silver brazing rods and flux. Daft thing is the compressor has copper stubs so they could have used 5% or 15% rods without the bother of fluxing. How are you cleaning your joints before brazing? I'll usually use some sandcloth or similar on copper if its tarnished etc, then if the joint has oil on it I'll give it a clean with some degreaser, brakecleaner is good for this. Also if you are purging with nitrogen, be careful not to have the pressure too high as it can cause bubbles etc.