The Silicon is a good idea! what i would do is put some shims two on the long pieces and one is enough probably for the short pieces 6 mm high then let it set and then pull the shims out. That would bring the top plate up to the plinth. Also giving it more isolation. If you wanted to attach it you could do four screw holes in the corners and put blocks in the corners and then cap the screws, using mirror screws with black plastic or mirror caps. Those ar arms are supposed to be very good better than the Technics, what is the pivot to spindle distance on both of them are they the same? If you can resituate the motor I would put it between the two cutouts slightly towards the forward cutout you want the motor to be in line with the tone arm that's about 9 inches in from the edge of the outer groove is the best alignment. be honest with you I'd make a new top plate you want to use chipboard what you call particular board, what work tops are made from chipboard an inch thick, would be ideal. And apply two layers on both sides one side might already have a layer of formica you'll need to use industrial contact adhesive not the stuff in the spray tins, and with a wallpaper hard roller roll it out before it sets you have to make sure there's no air bubbles but just using the worktop on its own will be quite good. You'll have to router out the lip what shouldn't be difficult you can do it while it is one piece, you don't need to separate and it doesn't matter if it's sticking up a bit just use the original top plate as guide, of course you go to set the springs in deeper or use longer bolts or both just make sure you've got enough clearance for the platter not to rub, you could even router out a ring on the top so the platter is actually below the surface sink it about 8mm 5/16, of the platter down. Ideally you want the pivot point of the arm what is so good about the arm to be at platter level or slightly below! yes this might be a weird angle and against convention, but you can make a wedge to go between the cartridge and headshell out of bolsterwood, to give you the angle back 91-92° the stylus cantilever will be much happier and follow the record better if you keep that Pivot Point at the back of the arm low as possible. And that's what AR put in the journal writings. The ball bearing has to be a snug fit either side of the bearing sleeve because you've got a ball shape on the spindle it will push the ball bearing to one side and cause friction and Noise you don't want the ball bearing to move, a blob of Grease would be good.
@millervintagehifi3034Ай бұрын
Wow! Thanks for all of the useful information. As I dive deeper into the world of AR turntables, I've found the audiokarma thread with Marc Morin wisdom sprinkled throughout. My goal is to take as many tidbits of info as I can and incorporate them into future builds. When I glue the plinth, I invert the table and place wood supports (and my glue) and use gravity to position everything as it dries. So far, so good.
@darthwarren4599Ай бұрын
What cartridge is in this table?
@millervintagehifi3034Ай бұрын
I swap out cartridges all of the time. On this table I’m currently running a Stanton 680EEE. I’ve also used an ATVM530EN on it.