Hand Sewing a Linen Kirtle + Medieval Shift

This 14th century adapted linen kirtle is super fun to wear! I made it entirely with hand sewing but it could be done by machine just as well. This is such a versatile piece, it can be styled historical, cottage core, dark academia, or fantasybounding. (I'm pretty excited to use this in more fantasy type outfits) its also super comfy, unrestrictive, and machine washable! I also made a medieval shift of course, which definitely isn't perfect (there are quite a few things I would change for next time) but it is functional! Anyways, thank you for reading, I hope you enjoy the video!
xoxo
Ora Lin {they/them}
❤️Support me ko-fi.com/oralin/ ❤️
Materials:
Red linen
White linen
80/3 white linen thread
50/3 unbleached linen thread
silk thread
00:00 intro
0:27 stuff
1:33 the smock
2:00 patterning
3:34 the sewing
5:28 thoughts on the smock
6:21 the kirtle (patterning)
7:18 mockup
8:20 final fabric
8:42 pattern layout
10:17 cutting
10:45 sewing
13:00 sleeves
15:17 thoughts on fit
16:20 thoughts on historical sewing
17:32 reveal
Instagram: @ora_lin
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[@Ora_Lin]

What era would you like to explore that you haven’t had the chance to yet?

[@LixiaWinter]

I would LOVE to explore medieval Spain, around 13 century, with intricate brocade prints, seductive cut out surcots, embroidered shirts and trims all over the place

[@AragornElessar]

I want to explore clothes from the "viking" era (pre-christian early medieval europe) and the 18th century and hopefully get an understanding of nuances over years/decades (silhouette changes and so on).

[@myintuitivepages]

@@AragornElessar Absolutely Viking era ✨

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

Iron age would be fascinating to explore.

[@catherinejustcatherine1778]

That is a wonderful question. I am not sure. I do admire the History Bounding drawings and paintings of the (British/ European?) Romantic Era. They're so pretty. I realize that there's many social and ethical concerns to consider (and, how to navigate that is above & beyond my brain ability, at least this morning). I advocate that people and their cultures are far more important than me wearing something I think is pretty.

[@SnappyDragon]

My favorite thing about this is how the bodice has all the shape, but without the compression! I also get super uncomfortable after a long period in tight clothing (yaaaay, fibro) so I'll have to keep this in mind next time I make a fitted kirtle.

[@Ora_Lin]

yay for making garments we actually enjoy wearing! and yes! I think especially with the way that these skirts drape with gores makes it so that you can get a nice silhouette without any compression😊

[@catherinejustcatherine1778]

Also, I have lived most of the last five years in high ankle length skirts, I wholeheartedly agree that almost everything can be accomplished in them. My additional difficulties are: climbing very steep stairs, hills, etc (its possible, but, I find myself stepping on my skirt far too often); riding astride anything, from bicycle to horse or more (possible, but, must consider modesty & comfort/ease of movement, especially flapping skirts to get caught in gears, fly into my face, or frighten a horse); and heavy weeding or similar floor/ground level grungy activities, such as scrubbing the floor (skirts will get messy & stained, torn, or otherwise compromised, but, possible).

[@danhurl1349]

I don’t need another project, I don’t need another project, I don’t need another project... BUT I WANT IT

[@Ora_Lin]

mood

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

I love both pieces! By the way, that deep red really suits you.

[@lucyl4603]

You make plain linen look so good and wearable 🤤 my wallet’s gonna lose so much weight now that I suddenly need all the reds, and the blues, and can’t forget the fabric for the shifts! 😩

[@Ora_Lin]

linen is so worth it if you can afford it!

[@lucyl4603]

It’s becoming an addiction 🙈 I told myself I’d stop buying any fabric after the 32nd specimen in my stash. Oh, well…

[@jackiejames4551]

It looks good. And who cares if it's historically accurate, as long as you love it and it's comfortable to wear. I'm not really a history bounder, but if I was, I would choose the late 1940s early 1950s, mainly because I like the music of that time period. Anyway hope you are staying well and safe.

[@Ora_Lin]

mid-century music is a vibe👌

[@steffirossmann1168]

You are amazing , thank you for charing 🙏

[@coreygilles847]

That red is so gorgeous

[@myintuitivepages]

How absolutely beautiful ❤️🥹 thank you for this

[@Ora_Lin]

Thank you! You're welcome!

[@dressdeveloper]

That’s very beautiful. Love the red.

[@Ora_Lin]

thank you!

[@nataliestanchevski4628]

A really lovely interpretation.

[@Ora_Lin]

❤️❤️

[@slinky.blackcat9965]

What a nifty way to make a kirtle. Looks awesome. I love the short sleeves and the practicality of the hem. The colour is lovely on you ❤️

[@Ora_Lin]

thank you!!

[@jennglow4647]

Very pretty 😀

[@ninaschust3694]

so much hand sewing. not even at uni had I had the patience you have. Beautiful work. Well done.

[@ByGollyMissHolly]

Such a cool project!

[@Ora_Lin]

Thanks Holly!

[@annadonahue5752]

This video was very soothing to watch! the garments turned out great and I bet you're going to find creative ways to incorporate them into outfits with historybounding pieces from multiple eras. I appreciate how you included clips of the in-between steps of construction and finishing, like the order that you constructed the sleeves of the smock. I guess that process really jived with my brain! I'd like to explore the Middle Ages more, especially since I'll be making Opus Elenae's Londinium hood soon (hopefully with fun 'non-historical' embroidery for a personal touch)!

[@Ora_Lin]

thank you so much! Im glad you appreciated it❤️ happy sewing!

[@bogatyrsha]

The camera work is just amazing, the garment looks so good on you and I just love .. this(?), you (?), your work(?) ... just love ☺

[@Ora_Lin]

thank you so much🥺

[@georgecoleman4300]

Ha Ha! Good to see you’re human. Interesting how you and B. Banner seem to just go on instinct ( even with so much planning). Being that I was in the fashion industry so long, leaving things to chance doesn’t compute. And personally I sort of lose it when I make a mistake. Very interesting to see people like you and others in the historical arena take things so smoothly , make future notes and embrace the whole process, not just the result. Interesting.

[@valleriejoy]

Love the kirtle. The color is beautiful! This may be a stupid question… Is there a historical reason garment construction reason for sewing the seams in white and felling the seams in red?

[@Ora_Lin]

to my knowledge it's done that way because linen thread would be cheaper than silk (and undyed would be less work than dying it) so it would be used for construction seams and you would save the dyed thread for seams that might show on the outside such as the felling.

[@emsdiy6857]

Very pretty outfit

[@bigbucketlist]

These look awesome! I am really interested in what kind of stitch you used on the shift, it looked like two dips into the fabric and then a backstitch, is that correct? I am a beginner and am trying to learn all the useful techniques, and that looked like it would be both quick and neat!

[@darknessfierce4209]

Running backstitch maybe

[@thePomegranateWitch]

historical 👏🏼 accuracy 👏🏼 is 👏🏼 a 👏🏼 myth! Thank you for sharing what your goals are with histor-ish garments & techniques

[@Angelika5378]

Wait you can rip linen and it's on a straight line?o.o

[@ninaschust3694]

they said it could also be hemp. no idea how hemp reacts to ripping...

[@emsdiy6857]

Call it almost historically accurate pattern