Handling Lee Auto Drum Powder Measure Smoothness Issues

[@1stFlyingeagle]

So what is the pop? Is it the die hanging on the lip of the case, then the pressure gets great enough and then drives down and make that click sound? So with the ones that pops. dump the powder back and reload that same shell many times and see if it will pop. If not then it would lead me towards expansion die and case mouth. Going deeper. make blank that would fully engage the powder dump and cycle it over and over. can you get the pop? If so the problem is in the mechanism of the powder drop. Also watching the black arm rise would say a lot. Right, before when it pops does the black piece rapidly drop downwards. Do you feel it in the press handle when it clicks? Yes, I love figuring out why when something is not working correctly. Maybe because it is part of what I do for a living. Lol

[@delmarhauff4707]

The pop is from the casing centering into the bottom of the auto fill die. I had to recenter the turret head on my press and modified the bottom of the die. I am loading mostly 30cal so I flat bottom bored the die and bell mouthed the entrance. Works great now

[@curtwuollet2912]

Flaring too much can cause the case to stick and jolt everything pulling it out. I smoothed things out by flaring as little as possible while still accepting bullets. I was concerned about getting the full stroke on the measure, but found a setting that satisfies both for 9mm.

[@Thorsaxe777]

Cookie, thanks for addressing this and how it spread through the Shooters and Reloaders out there. You were right on the Money about the expander, I have ordered another expander from Lee and will try that and see if that one Pops or Chatters the spring assembly, If so I will do what you said, dump that charge and throw a new one, I also did what Scott Grizzly did as well, that alone made the mechanism smoother to operate. I want to say Thank you sincerely, You are our friend, you are always respectful and a gem of a Guy. You take things seriously. That alone is a rare commodity in today world.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Thorsaxe777 -- You and I go by the same precepts - family, friends and country - life is too short to not care... Best to ya, FC

[@Thorsaxe777]

Yep.. You nailed it. Btw, I would recommend the auto drum to anyone that was looking for a self activated powder measure, and it does just what you describe it does. I have used in in rifle and it was smooth, reliable and accurate. I loaded up some .223 on the Dillon 550B without one hitch or glitch, Matter of fact it was pointless to keep weighing every 20th charge as the powder is visible in the case from my vantage point in front of the Machine, 1,500 rounds later I weighed the last charge and it was right on the money. I have to change out the priming, However I have about 500 30-06 to do for the Old Girl M-1 Garand I have and I used to cringe at the thought of putting IMR4895 through the Dillon measure on the Machine, but the Lee auto drum works smoothly. Thanks again cookie.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Thorsaxe777 -- Shoot up a storm...Thorsaxe777!! FC

[@Thorsaxe777]

Yep..

[@romukom936]

Thanks for your videos FC. To be honest, I did not like your videos at first but now I do. You have a lot of knowledge and I am glad that you are sharing it. I have been using the Auto Drum since November. I did noticed the click or pop as well. Like you I have not noticed a gross variation of the charge. I have found MY source of the pop. It is the screw that locks the arm to the position when the safety feature gets removed (installed per the instructions). Basically the screw head hits the body of the auto drum. I have noticed that you got a slight wear on that area. I believe that you are no longer getting that pop because either the screw head or the area of the body got wore enough. What I did to fix that was to use a small file and file a little bit that area. You can also file the screw head. Either way it works and my pop went away. I hope that this will help.

[@romukom936]

Just to add. At 14:38 you will see the wear area. When the screw head hit that area it creates some pressure. Because the screw is round head, eventually will slip off and as a result the pop or click sound.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+romukom -- That's very observant of you. Yes, my clicks are getting less the more I use the PMs... I'm liking them the more I'm using them...and then liking them more - which makes me want to use them more - and then liking them more - hmmm, where this will stop I know not where. Where'd I put my cell phone? Oh, yes, there... Best Regards, FC

[@johnsmiley9830]

FC45LC, I may have an answer to the "chatter"/ "popping" issue discussed in this video. I have the Lee Classic turret press and the Auto-Drum powder measurer. I have been having a major problem with the brass cartridge sticking in the die after expansion and dropping the powder charge. The problem was so bad that I called the Lee technical help line. The tech suggested that I polish the tip of the expansion tool to ease the withdrawal of the case mouth from the expansion tool. Upon disassembly of the expander I found the tip of the tool had "drag" lines on the tip parallel to the travel of the cartridge mouth on and off the tool tip. I used 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and crocus cloth to polish the expander tip to a mirror finish. I found a rod the would fit inside the expander tool and chucked the other end in my drill. I spun the tool and held the sand paper on the tip. It did a great job on polishing the tip. I sprayed the tool tip with Hornady dry lube spray and let it dry.I put it all back together and ran a cartridge through the expander/powder charge. WOW, what a difference! Very SMOOTH, no sticking cartridge when I lower the cartridge out of the die.Perhaps a "rough" expander tip is causing the "chatter" / "popping" issue? Would you inspect your expander tool tip and let us know what you find?I continue to enjoy and learn from your videos. Please keep up the good work. (:-DBest regard, John S.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+John Smiley -- That might explain why Thorsaxe777 had a chatter with one of his calibers with the AD and I did not... Interesting...since I'm not really getting the chatter he got, but rather only an occasional click - I'll have to check the expander tip next time I'm really getting those clicks - they don't affect the accuracy of the drops in my case. Best to ya, and thanks for the tip...FC

[@crawford1911colt]

If you, look close @3:20 there is a slight shudder then pops then @3:57 smooth as silk.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+DON C -- That shudder at 3:20 is what happens on occasion - I call it a pop, Thorsaxe777 calls it a chatter and you call it a shudder. Important thing for me is that the measure still threw a 3.1-3.2 grain charge same as the smooth throws. Have a great day, FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+DON C -- Since the powder charge is good, I have learned to not give it much heed unless it really pops louder... Have a great day, DON..!! FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+DON C -- Yes, I'm recalling some of the comments I am replying more than once...Google is loosing my replies and also not putting others in my inbox so that I don't get the comments...Thanks for letting me know, Don... We have to deal with these things now and then... FC Steve

[@brucemiller4409]

May not be the same as reported 'popping', but I also have a metering problem with Lee Autodrum Powder measure. I am using the measure with the riser attached and the long rifle charge attachment to charge 223 REM cases. I've gotten the problem with both the Lee Classic Press 4-hole turret and with my Hornady single stage press. Every once in a while I get a varying amount of powder spilling onto the bench at various positions of the ram. It's not consistent in when or how much, but it's definitely there. I do wait 3 seconds at full ram extension for full powder dispensing in any case. I occasionally get a 'crunching' sound, but can't relate that to the problem yet. The drum always rotates ok. I see a lot of flexing of the powder measure. Most of that is the measure wobbling at the top (which your videos seem to show as normal), though on the turret there's some upward movement as well of the turret itself. Some of the responses to your video hint at possible solutions. Eventually I'm going to try without the riser and then on some pistol ammo with its charging die (don't have these dies yet). Everything seems tightened up ok and stable up to the measure itself. I really want this to work as the automated turret loading would be great. I'll recheck the o-ring count and placement. Though this is my first turret press, I've been successfully reloading for over 10 years and have made thousands of various pistol and rifle rounds. But I'm a bit mechanically challenged, so it may be a case of loose nut behind the wheel. Thanks for your interesting and informative videos.

[@brucemiller4409]

It was the riser. Did over a dozen test case fills without the riser and no problems at all. Now I have to figure out what I did wrong. I noticed while taking off the riser that there was a bulge in the o-ring and I think it was a double, with one still on the bottom of the autodrum itself.

[@brucemiller4409]

Test with reloading 50 once-fired, cleaned, sized, trimmed, chamfered 223 cases. Though I got consistent 'crunch' when raising the ram, only got 1 slight powder spillage of a few grains and consistent powder drops (measured every 10th drop). It may have something to do with the trim/chamfer as after the 50 cases, I put in my 'test' case and it made no crunch and worked fine (this 'test' case is the one I just keep using to test the measure and empty the remaining powder in the tube when I am done).

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Bruce Miller - What you are describing is the powder leakage that can happen with certain fine grain powders with certain of the nylon drums. One thing you can do is dismount the drum and see how much powder is between the drum and the measure housing, if a lot is there, you have found your problem - the powder will be dropping out from between the drum and the measure and also, some of the powder will work its way around to the mechanism hole in the drum seat causing leakage from the measure itself. If you switch to larger grain or bigger flake powder, this leakage may cease just because of that. With some drums, an extra 1/4 turn on the thumb screw stops the leakage (you don't want to overtighten, of course). If this is the case, that drum must be labeled for those powders only. If you switch drums, the problem may go away. If your measure leaks with all drums and all powders, the measure should be sent back to Lee as defective. I've had the leakage problem with W296 powder, but all leakage problems have been solved with the above... Good reloadin' to ya, FC

[@brucemiller4409]

Thanks. Was going to get other drums anyway and different caliber dies to try anyway. Will try large drum if do 308.

[@curtwuollet2912]

It's strange how ideas change. I recall my first powder measure, a Lyman, actually had a little swinging knocker to promote consistency.

[@crawford1911colt]

Steve, your Dillon Terminator scale the zero button sure looks like its had a workout.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+DON C -- You guys out there don't miss a thing...and that doggone Dillon scale has kept working like the EverReady Bunny... Have a great day, FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+DON C -- Very observant of you, DON - I thought I answered this one already - apparently not...or Google is Googling again... Best to ya, FC

[@crawford1911colt]

+FortuneCookie45LC Steve, there must be a problem you, replied twice on 5 or 6 of my comments? any way good hearing from FC45LC

[@mildot5482]

if thé scales are more precisely. .we wouldn't get this reflex to zeroing them all time to be sure

[@hardybirch3630]

I always enjoy your videos and learn so much from them. I purchased the wet tumbler after watching your videos and now I am adding 357/38 sp to my bench loading (Dillon 550B) so the powder measure videos area great help. Thanks

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Hardy Birch - Congrats on your wet tumbling and reloading - the Dillon 550B is a fine press, even if you add a 650 later. If you get stuck with the Dillon Powder Measure, fear not because they work very well. But I've replaced mine with the Lee Auto Drums - reason?? -- the Drums work very reliably and uniformly, just like the Dillons - but no need for the return chain, and I like being able to interchange drums preset for my favorite loads. And changing powder is much easier with the cut off hopper - the powder in the measure can just be dumped into an empty case until the powder is gone. Lee powder thru dies can be kept in the toolheads, so screwing the Lee ADPM to another toolhead is a piece of cake for caliber changes - then swap out the drum - presto. Changing calibers and resetting powder charges with the Dillon PM is much more of a hassle. Worked fine for 35 years of reloading, though so I'm really not complaining. Have a great day, FC

[@SmoothRuffian]

silly me! Your video inspired me to investigate more on why my Lee AD was not throwing the whole load. It wasn't rotating all the way. I took it apart and found that I had placed an extra O-ring on top of the extension! I took it off, now the thing rotates like butter and accurate.

[@mcdsdaddy]

Great review and suggestion for possible fix.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+MCDSDaddy -- Yes, it is, and it works just dandy... I'm sure Lee could have armored those teeth, but then the costs would be higher - only a problem in isolated instances easily dealt with... Good reloadin' to ya, FC

[@geezerp1982]

@@FortuneCookie45LC so what was the fix ??

[@Paul-dc6sp]

Another great video with a lot of very good information. I have watched many of your videos on this powder measure and you have convinced me to buy one. Keep up the great videos.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Paul LaRosa -- I just did a reloading video using this measure for 6 grains of Green Dot and the doggone thing was so accurate dropping 5.9 - 6.0 that I just took the last case powder charge and went over to the scale with the case in the video frame and dumped it in - 6.0 on the button, and I said, "Now why isn't that a surprise..." But I deleted that part because it's like beating a dead horse...Have a great day, FC

[@chevy6299]

Nice solution to the problem, now I need to buy one for my rifle loads.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+chevy6299 -- The accuracy of this measure when there are no chatters is astoundingly delightful. Best to ya, chevy6299..!! FC

[@slotcarfan]

I was getting some popping with .38 spec but not 9mm on my Lee value turret press. I found the case was shifting out slightly in the shellholder as turret turned. By pushing the base of the case back into shellholder and holding with finger as it moved up into charging stage, all clicking and popping stopped. Different brand shellholders all did same thing.

[@amhux]

What I am finding on my Lee Auto-Drum is that the pop is coming from the expander die. (Lee Powder-through 38/357mag expander.) The expander will start moving the drum before it is set into the case. Then once the pressure is great enough it "pops" down into the case and makes the drum in the powder measure to snap backwards. My Dillon expander has a taper that the Lee expander does not.

[@Ford360CID]

I just finished a video on this very subject and Thor's axe commented to me and we discussed the reason for the clicking.... and by keeping the slider drop tube from making contact with the top of the slot of the housing body(see page 4 under dispense position note) it avoided making any noise at all...+ i polished the inside of the drum housing and polished the expander plug on the lee expander and powder drop die and viola!!!! smooth and quite like an even more expensive model and i've been a LEE customer more than 29 years and i've seen them get better and better and the prices have not jumped to high after almost 30 years but have gone up slightly but still affordable.

[@Billbobaker]

Where did you get that really cool powder scoop on the scale? Great video.. I just love my new Lee auto drum.. on the new ones you can simply just screw on the one pound powder containers.

[@bippie23456]

I was having the same issue reloading 9mm on my Lee Pro 1000; I would occasionally get a click/chatter. I did frequently measure the powder load when i experienced the click/chatter and found the load to be very consistent. It sounded to me like something related to the spring within the powder measure. I did two things and the click/chatter ceased: 1. I removed the powder "riser" and attached the powder measure directly to the die; 2. I slightly loosened the drum. I reloaded 1,000 9mm and 600 .380 without a single click/chatter. I randomly checked the powder load and found it very consistent. Regardless of the click/chatter I have found this measure to be extremely consistent with Bullseye. Lee should provide the option of which powder measure a customer wants when ordering a press that comes with a powder measure; I am ordering another Pro 1000 and would prefer that it came with the new drum powder measure rather than the disc powder measure.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+bippie23456 -- great suggestions - I'm going to try that, except that the clicks are actually getting less so and when it happens, the powder drops are still good - but leaving the riser out is so easy to try... Best to ya, FC

[@WhatIsYourMalfunction]

For what it is worth in adding a data point, I just finished loading 50 rounds of .45 Long Colt with 5.0 grains of Titegroup. I am using the Lee Drum powder dispenser for the first time. I got loud clicks as the case entered the die on more than 30 cases. At first I thought the Lee safety primer tray was rubbing against the drum dispenser (it was) and that was the cause. But removing the tray did not alleviate the loud click. I weighed each charge. All 50 were either 5.0 or 5.1 grains of Titegroup. There did not seem to be rhyme or reason to it. But the incidents appeared to decrease in frequency as the unit was used. Also, no charge was inaccurate. I suspect the powder dispenser just needs to break in a little; in any case it appears to be a non-issue on my unit in this caliber. I am about to do another 100 rounds, and I will give an update if a different result occurs.

[@WhatIsYourMalfunction]

+Michael McNamara 100 more .45 Colt cartridges completed. The "pop" occurs less as time goes on, making me think a little break-in period occurred. No throws were ever more than 0.1 grains off from the set amount. For me this appears to be a non-issue.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Michael McNamara -- Thanks for the work you put in on this...I'm finding out that I like these measures the more I'm using them - same result as you are finding said in a different way - the smoothness is going up and the accuracy is there... what more could we want? Give me a moment and I'll think of something...Ahh, yes, that would be fine, just fine.... Hmmm... FC

[@johnhaxton2296]

Lots of comments running at about 6 months ago (It's now 09/04/2016) I had the infamous pop and chatter when I first got my Auto Drum. Tried polishing the expander but no gain. I also at the time was fighting a leading problem in a revolver and on close inspection noticed that there was a small lead burr at the case mouth. Started inspecting my cases closer and find a small burr of burr of brass on the inside of the case mouth. I began removing this burr and gained two things, the lead burr on seating disappeared AND so did the infamous pop. In fact, the Auto Drum began to operate smoother than ever. I still have a bit of trouble with it being consistent with Red Dot I see about a .3 variation. As I'm shooting 6 grains in 45 Colt and 44 magnum for circa 850-900 fps loads and shoot mostly at 15 yards, it's no problem. Tite Group meters like water and is never off. (I've about 5 pounds of Red Dot yet to burn) Increasing the charge to 7 grains of Red Dot makes the variation go away. Your guess is as good as mine. I do notice that there are two cup designs on the inserts for the powder tube, a simple conical and one more flat on it's face. The flatter insert meters much better with flake powders than does the conical insert. The Auto Drum is by far the best and simplest measure I've used. I run mine on a Lee Load Master and it is a perfect match to the tool and the job.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

John Haxton - Appreciate you sharing your use of the Lee ADPM - these things have personality - I have three of 'em - one on my Dillong 550 B small primers; one on my Dillon 550 B Large primers; and one floater for all the various single stage and turret presses. Wouldn't hesitate to use any of the three for any job. However, I do have about three drums out of 14 that leak with the fine grain ball powders - not with the other types of powders. Have a great day, and thanks again for posting FC

[@G5Hohn]

Fortune Cookie has such a soothing voice. If I close my eyes, I can imagine a Sesame Street Character teaching reloading.

[@hidhshsj123]

Today I am going to start decaping 223./ 556.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Luke JwR -- Are you getting ready to wet tumble those rascals..?? FC

[@hidhshsj123]

All the pistol brass??

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Luke JwR -- All fired brass does well with wet tumbling...Good reloadin' to ya... FC

[@bustershaw9230]

Excellent video

[@CountryBoyPrepper]

I've loaded about a thousand 9mm with mine and I haven't noticed anything but smooth consistent boring function. Thanks for the heads up though!

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+CountryBoyPrepper -- I ordered a third one even after all this discussion about the pop...I really like these measures...Will keep one for each of my Dillon 550s and the third for any single stage I care to use it on...Best to ya, FC

[@erniemurdock8658]

Hot Lead I had the same problem, I was getting a "pop or click" sound. so what I did wasI took off the riser and installed the mouth expander die on to the Lee Drum Powder Measure and started again I didn't get any "pop or click" sound and each power throw didn't have a "pop or click" sound and every throw was a smooth powder throw. I don't know if it was the riser or I was just breaking in the Lee Drum Powder Measure. So I have decided not to use the riser. Every throw was either on the money or on 10th of a grain less. I took 50 throw and I have to say the average was 4.44. I was trying to measure 4.4 and I have to say it was right on the money. I tried Bullseye powder and I got the same results. I am very impress with the Lee Drum Powder Measure. So I think I solved the "popping and click" sound.

[@TheArby13]

Mine pops about half the time. If the side screw is too tight that can cause it. But if you loosen it up too much powder will spill out. I have mine pretty well et. It still pops but the loads are acceptable. I have 2 auto drum powder loaders. One pops, the other one doesn't.

[@doneime875]

Thats it. I'm just going to bite the bullet and buy one. Flaring and powder charging at the same time is sweet.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Don Eime -- Good reloadin' to ya, Don - and this measure is going to help... Best to ya, FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Don Eime -- I like it enough to have 3 of 'em... Best to ya, FC

[@MrOneHotDog]

I loaded 200 rounds of 45acp yesterday and I did not get any "pops". Today I loaded 150 rounds of 45 colt and every single round made a "pop". After the "pops" I measured the powder, and it turned out some were light. ONE THING I DID NOTICE: IF I USED A CASE THAT WAS ALREADY FLARED, I GOT NO "POP" SOUNDS. THIS WAS CONSISTENT FOR 150 ROUNDS. Not sure what the issue is.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

MrOneHotDog - It happens with some calibers and mostly not others. Hard to figure, because case length is not the variable - cases go into the die the same amount. My take is that the adjustment of the powder through die has something to do with that - Note that when the drum rotates to the drop, the entire metered powder charge will drop without having to have the entire meter chamber lined up with the drop tube. Therefore, we do not have to have compression at the end of the PM stroke (as long as we are getting proper mouth flare though). But the pops can happen at the beginning of the stroke and not the end - so that is baffling. The pops are caused by slippage of the rack and pinion gear. I've found that only certain calibers pop. But when I get the pops, I just dump that charge into a cup and run the second accurate charge - no pops on the second run as you have noticed. I'm getting 1/10th grain accuracy without the pops...But for 45 acp and 9mm, no pops. I have three of these AD measures and have learned to use them to very good advantage... Good reloadin' to ya, FC

[@MrOneHotDog]

FortuneCookie45LC Thanks cookie. I bought the AD on the basis of your reviews. So I know its good.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

MrOneHotDog - And here's wishing Good reloadin' to ya, FC

[@mikemcnamee6030]

would chamfering case mouths help? May be a bit extensive, especially for bulk handgun loading but maybe also a touch of case lube in the mouth of the case? Could a lot of these issues be caused by your use of stainless steel tumbling? It cleans cases very well, removing the built up carbon, which acts like lube when expanding. I dont wet tumble, but I always use a touch of case lube in the mouth on new starline brass. Much smoother expanding this way. Cheers FC!

[@WhatIsYourMalfunction]

+Rusty Shackleford I do use wet tumbling, but I would think it would cause a click on every case, yet it does not. In any case, lubing pistol brass is too much bother for me.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Rusty Shackleford - Always great hearing from ya, Rusty..!! I've stopped using the SS pins in my wet tumbling - saves a lot of time and the results are practically the same as with the pins. One thing we could try is to turn down our expander plugs with fine sandpaper and polish with crocus - our expanding would be smoother and our bullet pull increased on seating. But should work fine...however, none of this is needed as the PM problem is not hard to deal with and doesn't happen that much in the first place... Best Regards to ya... FC Steve

[@WhatIsYourMalfunction]

+FortuneCookie45LC I have never heard of not using SS pins in the wet tumbling process, though I wondered. That sounds particularly attractive for fresh, once fired brass (as opposed to gnarly brass picked up in the forest). I'll have to try a batch that way. I'm curious as to whether the primer pockets and interior of the cases get as clean without any friction action from the pins. I realize it is not vital to have brass "as new" for general use, but I admit to enjoying that new-brass look.

[@peteralexben]

+Michael McNamara maybe the case looks better but you wil find always pins later in the cases,tumble just with water and dish machine shine.rinse them wel

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Michael McNamara -- Yes, the only time the shooting community guys are using the pins for wet tumbling now is when we are doing particularly growdy brass...with normal brass, the pins are left out with just a little loss of pocket cleaning - advantage is no pins to separate or get stuck in 223 cases...The end result is still pretty darn good. But if someone wants to pin 'em, why not? They do come out nicer. Best to ya... FC

[@toddgriffith5234]

No popping or chattering here with 9mm, .40S&W or .45acp. I run Lyman M dies with all three calibers and don't add any mouth flare with my PTX dies. Maybe that makes the difference?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Todd Griffith -- Yes, it does. But if you are running the Lee expander, mouth flare die with this measure and are not getting the clicks and pops, you are fine. It's funny that Thorsaxe777 got his chatter with 44 mag and none with other calibers. I'm getting click / pop on occasion with 38 but none with 44... Good reloadin' to ya, FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Todd Griffith - Lyman M dies are nice...just really nice... I've got a few of those and they get a fair use...the original answer for cast bullets, or any bullets for that matter... Good reloadin' to ya, FC

[@toddgriffith5234]

+FortuneCookie45LC The Lyman M dies are a godsend for reloading with powder coated bullets!

[@daveblake3382]

Have you tried it without the riser ? The moving column in the riser is one more piece of linkage that could lead to a small bind or mis-alignment. Put mine right on the 9mm die and so far no pop

[@jonchevalier4337]

ordered a 44 mag powder through expander die . looking close at my new die I could see on the case expander there was ruff machine grooves and ribs on neck expander part of the surface .so if you run your brass up to charge the case it can bind like a serrated tool grabbing it. this part must be smooth and polished ore you will get a irregular and jumpy action on the up stroke and can over extend charger .. so loos cases may not chatter But a titer case WILL ..just my findings What do you think ?? thanks ...

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

jon chevalier - Thanks for posting good comment. Haven't noticed that kind of roughness on my expander plugs, but I'll have to go back and check...If so, polishing with 600 crocus with the plug in an electric drill might just smooth it all up...but neck tension will be increased just a bit, but that wouldn't necessarily be bad... Best Regards, FC

[@ctbob7635]

My drum worked fine unti l today it wont budge. The plunger wont move up and cycle the drum at all... I dont think there is a interlock on it because it never before had to be reset... I noticed the problem when a case got stuck on the upstroke

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

CT Bob - Sounds like a send to Lee for servicing. This brings up the durability issue of this measure. Haven't heard of many breaking...but with all the measures out there, some issues must occur. My three are still functioning nicely. Hope you get good service from Lee - this measure has done very well for them. Best to ya, FC Steve

[@ericstosius2508]

The pop is when I shears a grain of powder.

[@reilleyinportola]

I noticed that working the ram very slowly that the small plastic arm that rotates the drum would flex a bit like there was something binding up, then it would click and the drum would jump forward. I loosened the knob off a little and the problem went away. When you change out drums don't screw the knob too tight.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Tim Reilley - Thanks for your comment...this is certainly something that we can look out for... Continued good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve

[@thekracken4572]

If the case is a little long or if the die is set to far down it will cause that poping. At least thats what caused the poping on mine.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Roy Penn -- When we adjust the die, we want just enough action to get the drop tube engaged with the drum drop. Any more action than that is not needed and just compresses the powder measure mechanism with not advantage gained.. Good reloadin' to ya, FC

[@thekracken4572]

+FortuneCookie45LC -- Right. I'm new to reloading. I have only completed 20 rounds. So I am really inexperienced. I have a lee loadmaster press. So when I was setting up the press I had the auto drum die set to low. So every time the drum would actuate it would make that poping sound. I backed the die off until, like you said, just enough to let the charge drop and the poping stoped. It was a newbie mistake I made, having the die set to low, but it done the same thing as in the video but with every case until I backed the die off. Thats why I said the die could be low or the case to long.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Roy Penn -- Don't know how old you are Roy, but it doesn't matter - Here's wishing a great reloadin' career to ya..!! Mine is pushing on 45 years now, and if I could do it over again, I wouldn't change a thing...Best to ya, FC

[@slotcarfan]

On mine the 'pop', especially on tall case like .38 Special, is the case catching at the entrance to the die. If it is not seated properly in shell case, (or if tbe press is faulty and the ram is not lined up properly on your press), it will pop as it catches the mechanism entering the die. Use mine on indexing turret press. With properly adjusted drum, drops consistently plus or minus .05 grain. Very smooth.

[@SmoothRuffian]

when I get the "pop" is when I have accurate throws. Then suddenly it will not turn the drum sufficiently to throw the whole load. What would make the drum not turn all the way?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

ringram - You must be getting some kind of problem in the case activated drop linkage - either the vertical actuator rod on the outside of the measure is bending, or the pinion gear is slipping. Sounds like an easy return to Lee for a replacement...This measure is a winner for Lee - they are selling lots of 'em. There have already been some slight improvements the factory has made since the first ones got out...Best to ya, FC

[@SmoothRuffian]

Thanks FC! I actually found my problem! I found an extra O-ring I had placed between the extension and the unit. It was keeping it from turning the drum all the way. Works awesome now!

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

ringram - Thanks for getting back - and I'm very glad you got that working as it should be...It's just a great powder measure - I use 'em on my Dillons also - works like they were made for each other...Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays...!! FC

[@markgman4157]

Wait? You showed that the click or pop did not affect the throw, then you suggested recharging if you got a pop. I have had no problems with the accuracy of the drum measure. I too get the pop occasionally but I think it's just a minor annoyance with no affect. I too have found no reason for concern.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Mark Gman -- Thanks for the comment... sorry that this point was unclear. You and I do not need to recharge if we get the pop since it does not affect our throws. But for those who do pick up any difference in charge thrown when the get the chatter (more than a pop), then those reloaders should do the recharge as the second drop will not have the chatter. And if you or I get a bigger pop, and we notice that, then to settle our mind, we should either weigh that charge for accuracy, or simply dump that charge and recharge - we will not get that pop on the second drop with the same case. Good reloadin' to ya... FC

[@markgman4157]

+FortuneCookie45LC Thanks for the clarification. The popping sound is a little annoying because it sounds like something is binding. I have a theory. I wonder if the popping is due to driving the case too deep when the charging die is seated too deep. On the side of the measure is a window in which a black plastic tab rides. When that tab is at the top of the window the charger mechanism is in its dispense position. If the die is seated too deep and there is travel left in the ram you can continue to drive the case into the die, past the max travel of the measure mechanism. Maybe that over travels the gears. Maybe that black tab should be at its max travel in the dispense position when the ram is full up. That is the instruction Lee gives for rifle cases.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Mark Gman -- Interesting, I haven't done a video using the Lee AD to charge my 375 H&H yet - like 78 grains of powder. That might make an interesting video... Thanks for the idea...I have the rifle charging dies already. Let's see if the click becomes a chatter with charge inaccuracy resulting... Best to ya, FC

[@markgman4157]

When you do it take note of that tab at the top of its travel when the drum is in the dispense position. I would be interested to see if stopping the ram at that point versus driving the ram past that point (driving the case further into the powder die) makes a difference. I believe you can drive the case in far enough to damage the case edge ... I think I did that when I first set it up. My bet is that if you don't drive the ram up farther than needed to get full travel of the powder dispense mechanism you won't get the pop/chatter which may be a result of over driving the gears. Just my hypothesis.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Mark Gman -- I concur with you 100% - one viewer said that he put the case into the mouth flare, neck expansion so far that the case was squashed and the plastic vertical connector on the outside of the PM actually bent and broke. We definitely don't need that much adjustment. I've found that once the PM rotates to the powder drop position, there isn't much more adjustment we need to do to get the proper amount of mouth flare. And if the clicks do not affect the accuracty of the powder drops, I'm OK with those little clicks and pops - now if I got chatter, I'd be a bit concerned about that. Best to ya, FC

[@TehBr0]

I used to get pops on the Lee Pro Auto Disk measure, especially with new or clean brass. I took the flaring mandrel out of the die and polished it smooth with 1200 grit papers and a felt buffing wheel. Runs smooth every time now. I'm guessing the same trick will help with the Auto-Drum.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+TehBr0 -- You might be onto something there, might explain why the more I'm using that setup, the better it's working... Best to ya, FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+TehBr0 -- What you are doing is smoothing up the expanding operation and increasing the bullet pull on the seating operation - that's something that David Tubb used to recommend routinely in High Power Reloading... Best Regards, FC

[@Honk_Clank]

my lee auto drum does make a pretty noticeable groan from the internal spring being actuated, however it is fairly consistent with varget.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

oafaloaf - Glad to hear it's working well for you, but that groan is not invited to the party... Good reloadin' to ya, FC

[@dinohudson1432]

The mechanism that the spring pushes up is sticking... When you touch the inside of the funnel (with another case) it unsticks via spring and resets with a hard snap.

[@EJGentleman]

For issues like these what are your thoughts on the Lee Powder Charging kit?

[@jonchevalier4337]

HI EJ .. I LOVE this auto drum .. MY auto drum RUNS like a well oiled machine !! BUT it is new so only time will tell 10-4 .. MY thoughts are if you are some what of a tinkerer that's a plus because NOW YOUR NEW JOB IS QUALITY CONTROL MANIGER ! BUTT its worth all of the 35 dollars I spent on it .. SO I got 2 of them . THANKS .

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

EJ Karate - That kit is a great thing to have if you are loading rifle with the Lee Auto Drum - allows you to charge rifle cases small or large...Best to ya, FC

[@EJGentleman]

Thank you for the great advise. I put a set on order as the Lee dies are outstanding in my humble opinion. You channel is excellent.

[@jeffgaulden5879]

Was the pop with the 38 special all mixed headstamp brass? Was the mag mixed? At what point in the stroke / drum turn do you hear the pop?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Jeff Gaulden - Thanks for your comments and questions. Yes, the brass was mixed. When the click, pops, happen is early in the stroke just as the case is going into the die...But those don't occur in most other reloading sessions. We can deal with those when they happen though... Happy New Year to ya..!! FC

[@jeffgaulden5879]

FortuneCookie45LC : I'm reloading some 38 right now and I'm getting the same thing. However I'm using brass that has had the bullet pulled or got missed in the reloading process and still has various levels of crimp still left. Some of the crimp is heavy and some is rather light. The heavy crimp pieces will click or pop on the start of the upstroke everytime. Other rounds with less won't do it. Add to the mix military brass and that thick case and crimp does it as well. None of the click seems to effect the charge significantly, or the charge after a pop. I have also polished the expander to smooth it out. Hope this helps.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Jeff Gaulden - Thanks for posting...One thing that I've noticed is that if popping results in inaccurate throws, then we can dump that charge and run the same case a second time for a new charge - the second time thru, there will be no pop and an accurate charge...Thankfully, this practice is not required very often, but it does provide us good performance in those cases where problem occurs...Good reloadin' to ya..!! FC

[@bryco32]

I have had nothing but trouble with my Lee Auto drum. I have graphited the crap out of it and even ran a metric ton of powder through it. I still get SUPER inconstant throws out of it from every powder known to man. I have ran 5 different pistol powder through it and i it sometimes can be more than 2.0 grains off! Its crazy. And it does the stupid Hard Clicking on damn near ever 38 and 9mm I run. Even tried different drums on it. next step back to lee. If that dont work i am firing up the 100ton press at work and smooshing it into a fine dust.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Deezildennis - There is a conspiracy apparently going on whereby the Auto Drum is dead set on not working for you...Hopefully Lee will send you another that will not be the perverse rascal the first one was - I don't blame you a bit for being frustrated. 2 grains is a huge error. That's how I feel about the new Lee Classic Powder Measure that is just awful (Midway is trying to sell those by dropping the price by $10 - Hope no one falls for that). Best to ya, FC

[@bryco32]

It's extremely frustrating FC. I have done everything to try and get it to work other than trying to polish the internals of it and the die itself. Even tried running it without the hopper on it to see if it was a issue with the weight of the powder. Did that with every powder I have and nothing.. I could live with a few grains either way but this it blow your hand off territory.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Deezildennis - Yes, for sure - that measure of yours is not just frustration - it's hazardous... Hope you get Lee to send you another... Best to ya, FC

[@ezrabrooks12]

WHATS YOUR OPINION ON USING SPRAY GRAPHITE ON THE INTERNALS OF A POWDER MEASURE,NOT YELLING,JUST GETTING YOUR ATTENTION.THESE POWDER MEASURES ARE DRIVING ME INSANE!I CAN NOT GET AN ACCURATE LOAD OUT OF ANY OF THEM(STILL HAVE TO TRICKLE UP,OR DUMP CHARGES),I'M SURE AS HELL NOT GOING TO MOUNT ANY OF THEM TO MY PRESS OR TRUST ANY OF THEM.I'M ABOUT READY TO BUY ONE OF THOSE ELECTRIC POWDER MEASURES.IT WOULD HAVE BEEN CHEAPER AND FASTER IN THE LONG RUN.WHAT'S YOUR THOUGHTS?IS STATIC ELECTRICITY A COMMON PROBLEM?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

ezrabrooks12 - I just had to fish your comment out of my "comments for acceptance" review file that Google put it into...Might be because they saw your caps and thought you were ranting (of course you are not doing that). Obviously, no reloader will just drop charges into cases unless the PM is reliable in accuracy. Don't really know why your aren't getting acceptable accuracy...I'm getting 1/10 grain accuracy out of the ADPM and am very happy with that. Static electricity can be a problem with any plastic hopper, but the anti-static laundry cloth takes care of that easily. Best to ya, FC

[@PhillsGarage]

Love your wood loading block, bought or home made?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+PhillsGarage -- Those blocks are vintage - and I use 'em a lot... They were purchased 40 years ago...Best Regards to ya... FC

[@kenbriggs7772]

Hey Fortune Cookie thanks for what you do for the reloading community. I get a pop/click that’s intermittent. Have you discovered what causes this? I got some improvement with polishing the expander tip, but did not eliminate the problem. Any update !!

[@andrewjames5671]

I have had nothing but success with mine and couldn't be happier. I think Lee owes you some commission for selling so much of their products lol.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Andrew James -- No one of us can make the bells ring at any shooting company - just as no one of us can make the stock market move...but a lot of us can... Have a great day, FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Andrew James -- My review on their new Classic Powder Measure, however, is not as favorable...Best to ya, FC

[@ozysniper]

Hi there, I get the pop only on 38sp and my problem is when it pops it drops the right charge but the next charge is 1.5gr low. Love your vids FC45 been watching and learning for years. Thanks Mate. Quick edit- I just found this statement on "castboolits.gunloads.com" " Be sure to chamfer the case mouths of your pistol brass. any burr on the inside of the case mouth drags on the expander plug and makes the measure "chatter" in use." Food for thought!

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

ozysniper - Nice goin' with that tip...I'm going to check on this the very next time I get that chatter...this might just be the golden tip of the week... Have an exceedingly fine day, FC

[@hhkkelly3502]

That's it ,I'm ordering a Lee auto drum, thanks for the video, really enjoy your videos.

[@peteralexben]

Hello sir ,trimming and deburring and een lesser tight sizer could also help i think.or beveling/polishing the expander a bit yours peter by the way another great video

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+peteralexben -- By golly, yumpin' yiminy..!! I just said the same thing on another reply up above...we are thinking the same - frightening - just frightening..!! I'm not going to do it though as it isn't really a problem... FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+peteralexben -- Thanks, Peter - my powder charges are good and the pop is not that pronounced. If we get a bad pop, best to dump that charge and recharge it - the second run is always popless... Best to ya, FC

[@turgsh01]

Given this information, which of the Lee auto powder loaders would you recommend for a 4 hole turret press setup? Drum or Disk?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+turgsh01 -- Thanks for your comment and question. The auto drum has significant advantages over the disk...1) infinite adjustment of charges from 1 - 80 grains. 2) easy adjustment of powder charges 3) accurate handling of all powder types including the stick powders 4) quick interchangeable drums set for favorite loads 5) no powder leakage 6) powder cut off hopper. Best Regards to ya, FC

[@turgsh01]

Ok, I kind of figured drum would still be the better option. Awesome, thanks again.

[@peteralexben]

hello FC45 LC i found ,when loading on progressive presses ,you get less problems when using same brand uniformed cases and primer pockets .the same could be with this powder measure. yours peter

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+peteralexben -- I still need to test this measure with rifle loading - that's coming up (others have already done that reporting no problems). When doing rifle, we don't use mixed brass as a rule...plus we do all that case prep stuff... Have a great day.. FC

[@nickjm37fordel1]

Can you use the new Lee powder measure on a Lee progressive press without the chain ?

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Nick J -- I'm still wondering what good that chain is - it removes the disconnector automatically by pulling the button down as if we were hand doing that. But if the disconnector wasn't there, it would be the same result. If we're using a single stage press, what? we're going to double charge because we charge a case and then don't take it out to put the next one in? Taking the case out and putting the next one in is a given. But put that disconnector there for us to push down before we stroke the press just makes it easy to no charge a case - and you know what problems that can cause... If the disconnector was such a great thing, why does Lee make it so easy to take the thing out of the measure? Best Regards, FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Nick J -- Yes you can, the chain resets the disconnector so you can get a charge to drop. In effect, the chain removes the disconnector. If we remove the disconnector, we don't need the chain. Good reloadin' to ya... FC

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+Nick J - absolutely, and I'd recommend they be used that way...works the best - no chain flopping and tugging on that disconnector that we don't want anyway... Good reloadin' to ya.. FC

[@davidw2668]

I know this is an old video but when mine has that pop my cases are to long. Dont get the pop on trimmed cases just when the are over the max length

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

David W - I'll have to check on that, but you might be onto something... Have a great day, FC Steve

[@robertkras5162]

I think you're missing one thing here - when you get the pop you weight that charge, and the next charge - as the pop may be part of the drum being reloaded rather than the initial charge.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

Robert Kras - Very observant of you to notice that possibility - but the pop happens when the drum is very early in its rotation - if the charge has not been cut off yet, that's where the current charge can be altered by the pop...there is no pop during the return to pick up the next charge. Even if the pop causes any settling in the on deck powder, the act of filling of the drum metering chamber is a fresh flow in. Settling caused by the pop can only affect the charge being thrown if the cut off has not yet occurred. Whatever, charge weights have been tested in all permutations to result in assessment of a good performing measure... and the pops only seem to happen with some calibers and not others - Apparently, Lee has already made some design changes. I intend on buying yet my 4th ADPM so I'll be able to assess any of that... Best Regards to ya, FC

[@erniemurdock8658]

Hot Lead, I watched both your videos using the Lee Drum powder measure. How did you figure the amount of powder that is to be dropped into the case. I noticed that the powder drum is very accurate. My question is, is each drum a standard powder charge. I am very interested is getting the Lee Drum system for my reloading. The Lee Drum system is better than the Dillon reloading press. This eliminates two steps in my reloading process. Your videos are very good.

[@Harleychromeman]

Fortune Cookie, this is harleychromeman. I have 10 of these lee powder drops in my reloading room. I am big reloader, I have never had this problem with 380, 9mm . 40. 45, 357, 223, 300 bko or 308. I also use several different powders. Too be honest, these are the best powder drops that I have used. I will continue to watch your trouble shooting. Could it be that the nut is too lose or too tight on the powder drum? Could powder be getting between the drum and the inside edge of the frame ,where the drum and frame make contact? I am going to try create the same pop. Good Shooting my Friend

[@dinohudson1432]

(read my first comment below first)..... I can explain why it does this also....If you wanted to know.

[@SmoothRuffian]

I wondered if the pops come from very fine powder getting stuck in the gears. For example, I am using H110, which is pretty fine. Is it possible?

[@emnhw1comcastnet]

Remind me, does this powder measure do large rifle?

[@Thorsaxe777]

+Ed “Ed J and H sports” J Yes.. and it does that vary well I might add.

[@ThermalWedgie]

Hi there, I love your videos and how much of your knowledge you share with us all. Recently I've been having some trouble with my Lee auto drum. It has been throwing charges up to 0.3 - 0.4 grains away from my desired charge, which could potentially get me into some trouble. Do you have any tips or tricks I can use to try and keep it consistent? I try and use a consistent stroke with my press, and I even tap the drum, but it still throws inconsistently for some reason or another, and I can't figure out why. I've tried using a different tightness for the drum, but that doesn't seem to fix it either. At best, it throws 0.1 grains away from my desired. I'm also using powders well known for good metering properties.

[@kennethtephabock5634]

Great video

[@mcdsdaddy]

Great review and suggestion for possible fix.

[@FortuneCookie45LC]

+MCDSDaddy -- Always good to hear from MCDSDaddy..!! Best to ya, FC