Harley Model 65A 12-volt generator rebuild

[@TheDaneofCoosCounty]

I was just about to send my generator off to a shop to have it reworked for me. SO glad I watched your video. This was EXCEEDINGLY helpful. I opened mine up while watching this and discovered the generator on my 1958 XLH that’s been sitting for 25+ years is in AMAZING condition on the inside. I would have sent mine to a shop for them to open it, look it over, put back together, and charge me $175 for nothing… even the regulator on the top of my generator looked dam near BRAND NEW when I pulled it apart for inspection. Thanks for making this and being so thorough with it all!!!!

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks so much for your kind words. I always try to be thorough, without getting into mansplaining-- it's a delicate balance. I am so glad your generator is cherry inside. Those old 6V units work fine, especially with the stock regulator. Just watch out for that paper washer that gets cut through and you should be golden-- good luck with the bike!

[@Mattygoupil-i2t]

I don't think the black matters just stained, if the armature isn't shorting your fine

[@joehovanec1985]

Paul, you could use a 5/16 - 24 coupling nut on the armature shaft. Long threads to screw on shaft to distribute load and tapping on other end away from shaft. You would probably never ruin threads on another shaft, ever.

[@Open-Sport]

Yeah, good idea. I felt really stupid mushrooming the armature shaft, but figured to leave it in so other people would not do the same thing. I am pretty sure that shaft was really soft aftermarket steel. I have never seen one mushroom with a plastic hammer. Your idea would be ideal, I did stack those three 5/16-24 nuts on the shaft when I took another generator apart for that article. Time to hit the hardware store. I also should really be using my press for this, but I didn't have a press for decades, so I don't expect most folks will have one either. Thanks for the tip!

[@NailgunPBJ]

Another Great video Paul. 👍🏻👍🏻 Keep em coming brother.

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks, will do!

[@chrishoesing5455]

I think you would really appreciate and enjoy a set of thread files.

[@billvandyne4685]

Great video, Paul--thank you.

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks Bill. This one took a couple days, and the web article took another day. Glad you liked it, more on the way.

[@nyioves]

Where is the Square insulator gasket thing supposed to go? I had mine rebuilt by an Auto Electric place a few years ago, ad it looks like they put it on the a terminal screw between the armature coil lead and the brush lead, but on the A terminal! how did it work like that unless they did something with the brush plate?

[@Open-Sport]

The square paper insulator goes on the field terminal. Go to: www.harleykmodel.com/literature/spare-parts-catalogs/documents/99451-67/download.html And download the parts book. Look on page 21 (23 pdf) and you can see where that paper square (#46) goes under the square head of the field terminal (#3). What is not shown is that the field coil is also under the square terminal head. The arced metal piece (#46) is connected to the armature by the wire that comes off the brushes, as well as that terminal without the paper square has the other side of the field coil. A service manual would walk you through the assembly procedure, you can buy them on eBay, repop bootleg, and for all I know the Factory still sells them at the dealership.

[@Snorky_88]

What is the correct order the terminal insulators go in? I couldn't find it on this video. I got a terminal rebuild kit and don't know witch order the paper square washer goes.

[@Open-Sport]

Sorry, I should have shown that more clearly. The paper square washer goes between the square head of the terminal screw and that arced piece of sheet metal. If you download a parts book pdf from here: www.harleykmodel.com/literature/spare-parts-catalogs/documents/99451-67/download.html you can see on page 22 (pdf page 23) how the spacers go in.

[@Snorky_88]

@@Open-Sport awesome. Thank you. Your videos helped me out tremendously. Rebuilt my entire 65a using your video.

[@Open-Sport]

@@Snorky_88 Glad to help, the generators work OK once you get them set up right, congrats!

[@stansinclair5521]

Merry is aluminum oxide. Crocus is (softer) iron oxide safer on non ferrous metal / finer polish on copper

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks for the explanation!

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks for the tip.

[@hitnrun1805]

Did the multi meter test on the generator and it came back 5.7 and 5.8 not 6.0 on an 1982 xlh, guessing this is why it isn't charging?

[@Open-Sport]

Oh no, that is not that far off, it sounds like your field coils are fine. I have never had a bad field coil in dozens of bikes, but it is always the armatures that are burned out. Also, be sure to polarize the generator. Hook the "F" terminal to chassis ground and then just brush a 12V battery wire to the "A" terminal. This puts some magnetism in the armature so it starts up. It also puts the magnetism in the right direction, so you get +12V and not -12V. If the generator is out of the bike, you can connect the "F" to the frame of the generator, and then connect a battery or battery charge across the "A" terminal, the red hot to the "A" and the black ground to the frame. If the generator is not completely broken, it should turn like a motor while you have it hooked up. Don't do this too long, but it will not only magnetize the armature it will check the generator for function. Good luck getting things working, thanks for the comment.

[@hitnrun1805]

@@Open-Sport I appreciate your time and info. I did polarize and checked the rectifier one side was .496 other was .9 and some change, didn't test red and probably should have. Also rebuilt an AMF zenith today, to be honest, cleaned, tapped and cleaned and tapped the cap trying to get the ball to make a noise and put the other o ring in too only to learn no ball in this one that clearly was marked AMF, thanks to your video, know it doesn't have a ball. When I twist the throttle it doesn't squirt as much as others some but not all the way through the twist and then I found your video on the different carbs and noticed the one that pumped a quarter way up that hose compared to the others you had shown and figured it's right. Noticed I wasn't getting a spark nor at the points and condenser I put in which if is timed correctly I have turned clockwise at the top pin which is almost all the way to the left side of the slot. Flywheel has a lazy 8, dot and vertical line. I brought the front cylinder to TDC and the line was in the hole while the dot came up first before TDC and was no where's lined up on the points and condenser. Going to check the wiring and breakers tomorrow and stir the neighbors some more. Pretty sure there's multiple problems and today I made sure the valves wasn't 1 of them. Will be sure to let you know what I find.

[@Open-Sport]

@@hitnrun1805 Oh man, you are really getting hit from all sides on this project. Timing is critical, so I can see getting the bike started is key and then you can get into the carb and generator issues. The manual says that a 1982 uses the vertical cut bar to be the top-dead-center. In earlier bikes, that is the timing mark, but not in yours. For a 1982, a single dot is the front cylinder advance timing mark, and the double dot (like infinity symbol that you mentioned) is the rear cylinder timing mark. Earlier bikes, before 1980 don't have a rear cylinder timing mark. The mark is t full advance. This means that if you have changed over to points, you have to take a needle-nose pliers and rotate the ignition cam to full advance and that is when the points should just be opening. For the electronic ignition, the factory manual says you can start by putting the plate in the middle of the slots, then use a timing light. You check timing at full advance, so the RPM has to be around 2000 RPM. That is when you should see the dots in the middle of the timing hole. The 1982 has 40 degrees of advance, and you have to make sure you are NOT using the timing light at idle. I tried that clear plastic plug you can screw into the timing hole, and it worked OK, I know a lot of guys that just put up with the huge mist of oil from the open timing hole as the bike runs. It's a real mess at 2000 RPM. Get the ignition right first, the accelerator pump and generator can come next. It's a real pain to time an old Sportster, but it is critical, too advanced and it kicks back on starting and ruins the Bendix gear in the starter. Too retarded and it will burn the front piston or hang a valve. OK, not recommended since it can blow things up, but one way to not use the timing light is to get the bike running, and at low RPM full-load full-throttle see if it pings. If so, retard it, if not, advance it a tiny bit. Thing is, it is really hard to hear a ping in a Sportster, so you can blow up the engine. And even a little over-advanced, which you might do with premium gasoline, and then you break the starter since it kicks back as it starts. It's a pain, but try an use the timing light. Hang in there and thanks for the comment and kind words.

[@hitnrun1805]

@@Open-Sport From what I read and you're telling me the figure 8 and dot are the marks I will see in the timing hole if I used a timing light after I use the vertical line to static time with the points to get it close enough for the timing light? Sound about right? I appreciate all this info!

[@hitnrun1805]

Oh and found a line made inside the cover by the backing plate and guessing it should line up with the v and if it does that puts the upper screw on the backing plate, looks about center in the slot.

[@steve1774]

I've watched your videos on different subjects , they've helped a lot with my screwy 82 ironhead . For instance I'm one of the lucky ones that has a cv carb with no accelerator pump . After watching your generator videos I have found mine has a noisy after market alternator . My question is can I rebuild this alternator . Would I be better off with a new generator ? Keep the good videos rolling !!!

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks so much, I hope to do some more soon.

[@flipper184]

Thank you very much.

[@Open-Sport]

You are welcome!

[@philiphorner31]

Make a paper gasget out of nomex-kapton-nomex paper. Find a piece on eBay. Very tough dielectric waterproof material. Cuts with scissors.

[@Open-Sport]

This is a great idea, thanks for the suggestion. Better yet, I bought a CNC router and I have read I can put a cutting knife on it and program it to cut out the gasket. There are plenty of old tools, "gasket cutters," that are little sharpened punches that you can punch out the bolt holes. That and the scissors and you can make a pretty good gasket. Thanks for the tip!

[@mrmattmcgee8776]

I have never seen anyone mention real information only to not give any actual detail and move on to something else while screwing everything up by using absolutely unacceptable practices for disassembly! Worthless video. Time never to be recovered!

[@Jasdfrey]

You’ll never recover the time you took to write this stupid comment

[@wh07016]

Can I send you my generator to have it rebuilt !! Where r u located ???

[@Open-Sport]

Oh no, sorry, I don't do work as a shop, I am just a Sportster owner trying to help others out. Most towns have an auto electric shop that rebuild motors and generators adn alternators, they should be able to do the job, and some Harley shops can as well. Sorry I can't help.