Sportster 65B generator rebuild 1982-84

[@Mikellsecurity]

this guy is super helpful . wish i had your email. im rebuildin an 82 as well . just read the last comment and my bearings are shot on the armature. the im not goin to try a replace the bearings i will grab a new armature with the link that you provided. you hant posted in 9 months hope all is well

[@Open-Sport]

Yeah, took some time off, just pandemic funk I guess, but hope to get back on it soon. I got the brushes and screw for the extra 65B generator, so maybe I will film slapping that together. Thanks for the comment.

[@billvandyne4685]

Another good on, Paul--thank you.

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks for the kind words. I just got the missing bolt and new brushes for the 65B I worked on in the web article I linked to in the KZbin description. I hope to put it together today and verify it works OK. Then I have to figure out what it take to put a 65B into a bike with a 65A, I have heard you have to grind on the cases a bit to get them to fit.

[@sliceanddice69]

POV: The year is 2022, you're having charging issues with your '83 Ironhead chopper, and this video is the exact video you needed to watch to learn how to re-build the 65B. Wow I love the internet. Thank you man!

[@Satanabinoid]

My thought exactly 😂

[@Open-Sport]

Oh sure, I am so glad I could help. I did get a pair of brushes, a new armature, and a long bolt for another 65B, and will do a video on slapping that together soon, along with the test on the rig I built. Thanks for the comment!

[@dudebrono]

Same here haha

[@user-eq7et1tg2y]

hi paul I have a 1974 ironhead sportster I have a little problem with my starter when remove it fell apart now not sure about the brush location I think the is a Hitachi starter!!!

[@evaberg7548]

Excellent thank you

[@Open-Sport]

You are very welcome

[@chrisoftheot6272]

Afternoon Paul - thanks for all your incredible work (here, and the website). I wish I had your smarts! I'm trying to get some pictures for my Sportster history videos: would you consider letting me use some from your website - Model K & and pre-AMF Sportsters - please? (I would have asked on the website but I couldn't find any contact information.) I've spent many months working on this and all-too-often get refused permission to use pics. Anyway, if you could give it some thought. Cheers, Chris

[@Open-Sport]

Well, you are welcome to use any of my pictures, but I am not so sure about other pictures I have of various models, I got those off the internet and since my site is non-commercial, I feel I am under Fair Use. I got permission for some but not all, so I can't really pass on permission for images I don't own, sorry.

[@martinrobbins4945]

I need your help with a 1984 xlh 1000 transmission how can I reach you for mor information

[@Open-Sport]

I did some videos on Iron Sportster transmissions: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o52rq6tvmcmgd6c kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnfXpa1-aaubgNk Other than that, I am not a shop or a service, and I can't do individual work, if only for the liability problems. If you have a question, post it on the transmission video comments and maybe I can give some advice. Also, if your 1984 has an alternator under the clutch, I have no idea how those go together, I have only worked on older generator bikes, sorry.

[@danieloregan2330]

Hello Thanks for the shout out made my day brillant video as always excellent attention to detail are the bearings actually removable from the armiture or is it a one shot deal what a stupid place to put a hole thats asking for troube see why so many people have nos oem armatures in stock they brough them like u did expecting to be the problem cant beat a cheep fix I fitted a digital tachometer to my home lathe cost about £4 (ebay china) jb weld holds a magnet to a pully an have small bracket for the sensor seems very accurate does need 12v supply but works with a 9v battery Keep up the great work

[@Open-Sport]

You are most welcome, you will get another shout-out when I do the video comparing six Model 65A armatures in a day or two. I can't tell you how much better the tester works with a hard link between the motor and generator, compared to that rubber hose. I will try remember to show how I can power the generator with a 1/4" drive in a cordless drill, that makes your idea even better. It seems the bearings are pressed on the shaft and not meant to be removed, but but but, the parts book does call out the bearings separately, 29917-82 for the gear side, 29916-82 for the end cap side. The service manual notes, "Press bearings (12 and 14) onto armature (13), if applicable." And yea, I see them on eBay, $26USD or $15 USD for two of the 29916-82. The service manual also says to use blue loctite if you have to put in the pole shoe screws, like when you replace field coils. The parts book also calls out 4 different washers to take end-play out, 29907-82 is 0.004, 29908-82 is 0.010, 29909-82 is 0.020, 29910-82 is 0.039. I made a mistake in the video and article, since I suspect I was supposed to yank on the shaft and take out the end play, but I just bolted it all back with the same thrust washer. Ahh, teach me to not read the service manual, it says: "Adjust armature end play to 0.004-0.010 in." Let me go look for those washers on eBay. Holy cow, there is an international seller, but out of Florida, selling each washer for 46 bucks! I guess as long as there is any end play, the generator gets the old washers back. Thanks for the question, I will add this thread to the video description.

[@danieloregan2330]

@@Open-Sport Hello 46 bucks!!! for a washer!!!! id strip all the washers out of the scrap generators u have and list them as nos for 30 bucks and go and by another sportsrer thats crazy the devil is in the detail and they sting u for that if u want to do a job properly it will cost u CRAZY I have the factory manual for the xlcr 1000 1977(part no 99498‐77) i brought it £2 from a swap meet and in there shows undercutting the mica with a Jack saw blade (65A 12v) suggested by the manual could this be why sum armatures look cleaner and sum very ruff sum after market manufactures skip this finishing to save money Irl definitely keep any eye for a scrap one at a swap meet to see if I can resurrect it there very interesting it won't fit my bike but irl sell on if I get it working help keep these beautiful machines on the road Cant wait for the next installment 👍

[@davewollschleger1854]

Great Videos How bout one on timing a magneto Sportster, I have a 1966 can't find anyone willing to work on it, got to learn to do it myself !

[@Open-Sport]

I sold all my magnetos since they took too many kicks to start. I cheated on my timing. I got the timing close with static timing. You get the timing mark in the hole while being sure the front cylinder is on compression (remove spark plug and make sure air is coming out as the piston goes up. Then rotate the magneto gear while sticking it in the hole until you can set it so the points are just opening on the narrow lobe, don't think a mag has an advance mechanism. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3y5mWeml96baKM (coil bike instructions but the method is similar for a mag.) Once I got it static timed, my cheat was to install the 1967 one-year-only handlebar timing adjustment mechanism for a magneto. That let me play with the timing while the bike ran. I could retard it to kickstart, and advance once the engine was going. Sorry I can't be more help, this might help: www.harleykmodel.com/technical/magnetos/index.html

[@stansinclair5521]

Cadmium plating. Soda blasting

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks for the tip.