Iron Sportster cylinder head R R

Getting the cylinder heads off an Iron Sportster can be tricky. It's even trickier getting them back on. This video talks about some ways to get the job done, even with the engine still in the frame.
Website article:
www.open-sport....

[@TheGR3ATOne]

Just got a 79. Gonna need to tear down the engine at a minimum and replace every gasket/oring on the bike, might need to do a top end rebuild. This video and some others you made are very good and detailed. Appreciate the hard work and help boss.

[@Open-Sport]

Great, good luck with the build. Sportsters are a little tricky, but if you are careful things should work out. Thanks for the comment.

[@robertchapman8655]

Thanks for these extremely detailed videos. I just inherited my first sportster, a 78 electric start that has been in a barn for years. Needs a lot of work, but these vids are definitely going to make life easier. Just broke down my keihin butterfly carb with your help.

[@Open-Sport]

Glad to help

[@dennismcdonald7692]

love your methods of instructions it's really informative. I cringe when I see people that throw motorcycle assembly to the wind .I just think they don't have the patience to do it right appreciate what you do and how you think. Dennis Mcdonald

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks for your kind words. I was lucky to work in a VW dealer in Ann Arbor decades ago where the Porsche mechanics were on the other side of the shop. Hanging out with them taught me the patience and diligence needed to work on automotive. Harleys can be tricky, Porsches are worse.

[@itsapodcastrophe]

I'm so glad I found you...doing my first piston n ring install on my 71xlch your videos are impressive..thank you

[@Open-Sport]

Glad I can help. I hope to get into my 1962 one day, and record getting it working right.

[@skyhill4279]

Great video, I use a Snapon 7/16 torque adapter when removing and replacing my heads when in the frame.

[@jeffjames53]

Another great video! Nice ..so helpful and a great confidence booster. I have a question about band and O ring install on the intake manifold. Would it make sense to install the o ring AND the band? I have both and wondering what the best approach would be.

[@larrygoodspeed3075]

Watching you work reminds me so much of my old man minus all the bad words lol excellent video

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks for the kind words! Thanks for the comment.

[@user-eq7et1tg2y]

hi paul I have a 1974 ironhead sportster I have a little problem with my starter when remove it fell apart now not sure about the brush location (4) I think it is a Hitachi starter!!!

[@ronstuff3619]

Hi Paul, just found your videos about the keihin butterfly carb. Noticed you havent put up a video for a year. Are you still making them? Great work!

[@Open-Sport]

I bought a new house and working on it has taken all my time. I hope to post more Iron Sportster videos this summer!

[@michaeldraper6558]

My head bolt heads are rusted and worn tough to remove

[@Open-Sport]

Yeah, especially on 900 cc bikes, the head bolts can be tough to get out. If the engine is in the frame, you really can't get an impact wrench on the bolts under the frame rail. A propane torch on the cylinder where the bolts thread in might help. Also a wrench that you hit with a hammer to simulate an impact. To get the wrench on the RH bolts means you have to remove the pushrods and oil lines, but I always did that anyway, it does not take that long.

[@stevehiscox1473]

Makes a refreshing difference seeing you having issues regarding dismantling the top end. I like the way you get into it. No fannying about. While I'm on here do you have the thread size/pitch for oil line return line fitting behind the rear cylinder exhaust pushrod? Keep doing what you're doing! Steve

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks for your kind words. Not sure what you mean by oil return line, in an Iron Sportster the oil drains down through holes in the cylinder, and there is no line behind the rear cylinder. You might have a custom or race setup. Sad fact is I don't even know the thread pitch for the oil supply fittings. I think the fitting to the case is a NPT tapered thread, probably 1/8", but I don't know what the caps threads are, sorry.

[@trfisher78]

I enjoy your videos, however I don't find them all on your site or maybe I don't know how to navigate it. I own the worlds most expensive Sportster in the world...or maybe it just seems that way due to all of the money I've put into it in the 27 years I've owned it. I have a late 84. I have also owned three Electro Glides, two Heritage Softails, and a Dyna Glide. I've sold them all except my 2013 Ultra Classic, and it's on the market. I keep coming back to my Sportster.

[@Open-Sport]

Ah, my website was around long before I started doing videos. To see all the videos, you can click on my KZbin name and the tab "Videos". kzbin.info/door/9krAMwaKkfjQNM1eawxziwvideos KZbin can be a little hard to navigate A late '84 Sportster is still an Ironhead engine right? I have had a couple Evo Sportsters, but I sold them and kept my Ironheads. I have a buddy with a 1974 Shovel and a 1979 Sportster, and he too prefers the Sportster, at least around town when he is not two-up with the "old lady".

[@W1RMD]

Great informative and entertaining videos. Thanks!

[@Open-Sport]

Thanks, I am glad I could help.

[@jimgomez5396]

That would be late 73 12 point, early 73 6 point, mid year change along the cylinders an heads!

[@Open-Sport]

Yeah, they had the bolts too close to the cylinder in the first 1000cc heads and barrels and did not even wait for the new model year to put in the change. And neither the barrels or the heads interchange, though you can always put the later 73 setup on the early 73 cases, Thanks for the comment!

[@aronbechiom565]

I had to unthread that particular bolt..using my fingers...in the frame. Sucks...but do able. 1976 XLCH

[@Open-Sport]

Good job, those headbolts can be a bear, especially if the rocker box is not relieved well enough around the bolt area. It was years before I realized the engine is not mounted centered in the frame. Those headbolts above the top frame rail are a real pain. Did you ever get the washer wedged against the rocker box and want to go crazy? Thanks for the comment.

[@mrgentry66]

Hello sportster Paul. You're videos are great. Just wanted to get your thoughts on the FNA style intake manifold gasket and clamps. They claim it negates the need to leave cylinder and head nuts loose while installing manifold. thanks!

[@mrgentry66]

FNA is the company.

[@Open-Sport]

I would not run these FNA split clamps, especially not for 56 dollars. To me it seems like they would cut the "rubber-band" seal in half. Any air leak up here will blow a motor by burning a piston. Aligning the manifold is only needed once, when the heads and/or barrels go on. If you come across a bike with a misalignment, you can first try to loosen the barrels (after loosening the top motor mount strap between the cylinders). If that does not do it, then loosen the head bolts and do it right, tighten the intake manifold first, then snug up the cylinder base nuts and head bolts. You won't have to do this again no matter how many times you take off the intake manifold. The FNA kit is trying to convert O-ring manifolds to rubber-band type. There has long been a kit to do that, for 6 bucks, that comes with 4 plastic spacers that fill the O-ring slot in the manifold and the head. Then you just use the normal stock rubber-band and normal stock rubber band clamps (Power Intake Manifold Clamp Kit with Flat Seals $23.80). As always, you have to support the carb and filter with a strap from a lifter block, or the tapped holes in the side of the later-model heads for mounting the air filter. If I wanted to convert from O-rings to rubber bands, I would use half of the adapter kit on the heads, and buy a rubber-band manifold on eBay or aftermarket. I see the conversion kit online as "J&P Cycles Manifold Adapter Kit, $5.99" and other places on eBay and Amazon. Also note that aligning the intake manifold with the heads not only helps the sealing, it makes a smoother passage for the air on the inside. I used to pack the O-ring with silicone before putting on the clamps, but learned that no goop is needed if the heads and manifold are aligned, and if the lip on the heads is not missing or damaged. I like O-rings since I try to get away with no support strap for the carb, though that might be stupid, it makes valve adjustment easier. I have also seen the rubber bands dry out, crack and put in a giant air leak that burned a hole in the front piston. I have never seen that with O-rings, even old ones seem to stay in once piece, and I think the new Viton O-rings would be even better for not disintegrating. One good reason to convert to rubber bands is if the cylinder head has the lip broken off that supports the inside of the O-ring. Some heads are machined so bad, they break out where the lip should be. Same deal, use the 6-dollar adapter kit, and buy the stock rubber bands and clamps to go with it.

[@mrgentry66]

@@Open-Sport thank you very much for taking the time to respond and at great detail. I think that is very generous of you and I'm thankful for that. Your videos and the information content you create is invaluable. There is so little out there at the depth and care/passion you present. Thank you.

[@Open-Sport]

@@mrgentry66 No problem, I am getting old and I figure it best to pass on any knowledge I have before it's too late!

[@W1RMD]

@@Open-Sport My 75 XLH has that damage to the front head. It actually damaged the front head exhaust valve seat. Thanks for the "heads up" on that kit. No need to try and re-weld that paper thin lip!

[@jerrybigrig]

😎👍😎

[@RapiersWrath]

You talk way to much.