Have you just nailed SQUARE cuts ? CHEAP too !!

[@startmaking1]

Thank you for anyone who has clicked and watched this video. Much appreciated. If you subscribe I promise to make more.

[@PureBloodWNC]

Done! 😊

[@brb-ctxcc]

Hi. Great video. You can cut longer boards at 45 degree, just cut the excess off first.

[@tokenfilipino]

I just picked one up brand new off FB marketplace for $25 from a guy who no longer does crafting. I had no idea what it could do but I saw the potential. I’m stoked now!!!

[@startmaking1]

Brilliant. Enjoy.

[@cliffleach350]

Hi Mark, great channel and I like your videos, please keep up the good work. One tip- CA adhesive is triggered by moisture, if you breath out on wet CA glue before joining the pieces it sets much faster, though not as instantaneously as using accellerant. I use the trich when jointing with CA where some fine adjustment is needed, or indeed if I don't have accellerant to hand.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you Cliff. Much appreciated. What a great bit of advice too.

[@LpDesignBuid]

Square cuts are almost essential for woodwork. As a beginner, it is necessary to master this skill. A detailed explanation about shortening this process. Well done. Thanks

[@startmaking1]

Agreed.

[@Gazman299]

The Kreg cross cut thingy right now is about $49 in the U.S. Just put it in your amazon wish list and wait for it to go on sale. I got mine for $32. Definitely worth it. Thanks for another great video. Love the British wit. The best in the entire world. :-)

[@startmaking1]

Great advice. I have seen it was low as 16 to 19 dollars in the US over the past 6 months. Seems to stay fairly steady in the UK sadly. I love mine though, for a beginner transitioning to a table saw it is perfect. And thank you for the kind comment.

[@ianembleton1133]

I gotta comment Mark.. I only discovered your channel 2 weeks ago looking for people who built their own shed/workshop as I'm doing just that. But I'm doing it cheap.....As cheap as possible....I mean, my walls are pallets cheap! It's no where near finished and I intended it to be just a storage shed at the bottom of my garden but after watching most - if not all of your videos, YOU have inspired me to "Startmaking" things so now its gonna be a small workshop. My Amazon wish list is growing with each video I watch and can't wait to get started. Many thanks and keep it up.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Ian., thank you so much for your comment. Nothing wring with a build on the cheap. Saves you money and gives you a good challenge. Sorry if the inspiration from the videos will end up costing you more but I guarantee your fun levels will increase. Thank you for watching.

[@WoodworkingbyShay]

Thanks!

[@startmaking1]

Oh wow. I am sorry that I did not see this sooner, I was on hols. What a nice way to return. This is officially my first ever super chat, or whatever it is called. In all honesty I never imagined that it was something a channel like mine would ever attract. So thank you for making a small channel creator very happy. to put it into perspective, you have just added 50% onto the total that this video has ever made.

[@llemusic1]

Very good tips and yes square cuts are vital and still a challenge. Especially when using reclaimed wood like I am doing. There is one i recently had issues with that you didn't mention. Was having a problem with cuts over 6 inches (15cm?) curving off to one side even using a straight edge. Couldn't figure out what the issue was and it was screwing up a outdoor cat house i was building for a stray my wife and I were caring for. Finally noticed by chance that one tooth on my blade was just slightly bent off to the side. That one tooth was pulling the saw off by 3 inches over a 4 foot cut. But even in a 6 in span was more than enough to unsquare my cuts. So long story short check your saw blade teeth.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Lee. Thank you again. They are the most challenging thing once you master plane blade sharpening in my opinion. You are spot on about checking teeth. Cant believe how far that has pulled you out of square. Was that using a guide. I find mine wanders but that is often user error in my case. Going to head down and check mine now just in case. Thank you

[@llemusic1]

That was using a straight edge clamp, yes. Depending on which side I was cutting against, it would either wander off to the side or would bind into the straight edge and completely stop the saw. Caused me no end of headaches in that build and couldn't think for the life of me what I was doing wrong. It was really only happenstance (see tossing my saw aside in frustration ha) that it was upside-down and I could see the one tooth that was bent out of line in just the direction of the drift I was experiencing. I have no idea how it happened because I normally take very good care of my tools. Perhaps I clipped a nail or a really hard knot, but it was one little thing that nearly completely screwed up the whole project.

[@ModelLights]

' That one tooth was pulling the saw off by 3 inches over a 4 foot cut.' Realize, that one tooth being off generates a tiny force. That can then interact with the free play of the system. Then you get 5 or 10 other teeth crashing the other side unevenly, and then causing an even greater force back the original way. Tiny defects can be multiplied very fast when you're spinning at dozens or hundreds of times a second. Everything gets multiplied many times due to dynamic interaction with the play a high speed rotational system. There is no 'small defect' in such a system. Even a defect that doesn't show up at one speed will show up at another. Everything has to be even and near perfect rotationally to work evenly through a range of speeds. It's why tire balancing is kind of an art, or requires a decent computer based system to tell you what to do. Or experience and more time to get it right. Helps for me that I learned from flying RC helicopters in the mid-90's, finely balancing rotor heads until they run smoothly through all speeds teaches you how to do some things. At the end you're using tiny slivers of tape to distribute just the right amount of weight to just the right place. And it's amazing and scary just how smoothly you can get a complex collection of parts to spin.

[@burnstockwoodworking]

Great video, solid information. I envy your ability to speak clear and concise. Excellent instruction!

[@startmaking1]

Haha. Thank you Marcus. Just realised just commented on your latent video from my personal account. Really enjoyed it. Great to see you growing well.

[@chicobabyification]

Been woodworking for about a year now and I've only recently realised the importance of square cuts (or at least appreciate it 😂) mitre saw was my finest purchase, quick repeatable cuts and perfect mitre cuts 👍🏻

[@startmaking1]

Hi Nico. Thank you for your comment. Square cuts used to drive me bonkers. I wish I had the electricity for a mitre saw. And the dust collection too. They look so useful. There may be a future where I have a shop with power and a mitre saw and table saw surely have to be on the list.

[@chicobabyification]

That's the dream ❤️ extension cables are my best friend at the minute 🤣👍🏻 keep up the good work mate, love your videos 👏🏻

[@startmaking1]

@@chicobabyification Your kind. I run a 50m one from the house but can really only do a few things with it otherwise the electrics trip. Fun times.

[@Vazik05]

@@startmaking1 And running a whole new breaker box is a bear of a task, especially since you run on 220 instead of 110. Fuses boxes and transformers oh my!

[@contessa.adella]

Gonna steal that wings idea for my home cobbled version😊

[@startmaking1]

All your. I loved my cobbled version. Only threw it away this year after 4 years of solid service.

[@ebonicmaser]

I love my precsion machinist square. Making repeatable striaght cuts has always been a challenge for me.

[@startmaking1]

It was for me too. This has fixed that for smaller projects.

[@tomsardo6984]

New subscriber. Thinking of getting the Prey to keep in the circ saw bag when I travel light. Well done! Thanks

[@startmaking1]

Hi . Thank you for subbing and for watching. It is a good idea so long as the rails dont get bent. It really is a good bit of kit for small timbers.

[@themeat5053]

Well done, Mark. I love that the confidence level is way up! Keep making stuff.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you Mr meat. You are, as always too kind.

[@stevekent3991]

I saw this Kreg tool in your shed tour video. I wondered what it was. This looks great for a beginner who has minimal tools. I might buy one, it looks pretty handy and fun to use for some quick cuts. I like the portability of it as well.

[@startmaking1]

That is exactly who it suits. And portable. though be careful not to squash the metal runners. Not all that useful for someone with a table saw, but perfect for beginners.

[@stevekent3991]

@@startmaking1 If a friend or family member was starting woodworking today, I would advise them to buy the Worx Exactrack circular saw so they have a versatile power tool which does the job of a circular saw, track saw and a table saw in one and buy this Kreg Cross Cut station to do the job of a sliding mitre saw. Get them started on the right foot with portable tools which they can take to the garden, no excuses. Straight and safe rips, square and safe cross and mitre cuts. All they have to think about is the joinery methods which I would recommend dowels for a beginner as they help square up the pieces during glue up and assembly.

[@startmaking1]

That would be good advice and they would be lucky to have it .

[@kathrynnewton8721]

Amen! I think it’s very overlooked!

[@startmaking1]

Thanks Kathryn.

[@Steve-dr7rr]

I’ve got the kreg rip cut for circular saw cuts up to 2ft wide very handy if you need a 2ft 600mm wide work top it fits my worxs ones

[@startmaking1]

I need one but I really want a track saw, but the cost.

[@princeofgonville]

I just discovered your channel: I really enjoyed your high speed shed build, and your videos on French Cleats are very inspiring. Like you, I made my own cross-cut sled, and I'm fascinated by the Kreg tool. Do you have any experience of cutting compound mitres with it - where you tilt the saw in relation to the base plate? Thanks.

[@startmaking1]

Hi. I was saddened to find that this does not work on the Kreg as with my circular saw, in tilting it the blade does not reach the bottom and so doesnt cut through the wood.

[@michaelwillson6847]

Nice video again m8 as always not what a was expecting the video to be but seems like decent wee bit of kit. I'll catch up later with u. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👍

[@startmaking1]

Thanks bud. It's good for beginners for sure. No use for you or anyone who has a table saw which is most of the people who may watch I guess. Still, I do wish I had one at the start.

[@michaelwillson6847]

@@startmaking1 no totally seems like decent wee bit kit like u though square cuts before a ran the table saw used to drive me insane. Think as u said for people just starting that wanna give a go be something to assist but like u picked up on the board legnth is really the only thing that lets it down.

[@JasonGrissom]

Great video Mark. Thanks for sharing the knowledge! 🙌

[@startmaking1]

Thanks Jason. A bit niche for the algorithm. Not that I know what isn't. hope you are doing well.

[@TheOldcoder]

What is that which is holding your phone at an angle? I'm looking for something similar for close-ups. Great videos by the way!

[@startmaking1]

Hi. they are brilliant. Check out this video for how I use them and there are links in the description. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoKwi3ynZsmqosU Full disclosure, they are affiliate links but as of 2 weeks ago, they were the best value I could find.

[@teacheme]

Hi Mark. Much as I like your video and the lengths you go to achieve your aims, sometimes I wonder if it's worthwhile looking outside the box. There are a number of cordless mitre saws available at around the £100 mark, in relative terms, not much more than the Kreg jig. Are they any good? Only by using one can you make up your mind. I don't know what I would do without by chop saw which has seen so much service over the years. Keep them videos coming. Is it time for you to consider installing power to your shed? The project would make an interesting video.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Costa. Good to hear from you. I hope you are well. I am going to email you a picture later today that will show you how well timed your message is.

[@christianwithers7335]

No, do not buy battery mitre, especially not a cheap one.

[@teacheme]

@@christianwithers7335 The point is moot now that Mark is building a 'proper' workshop with its own power supply. Now he can get himself a decent mitre and/or table saw.

[@Vazik05]

Just a heads up on the US link for the circular saw with battery, it's actually cheaper to buy the saw itself and the battery separate. Not sure why, but the saw by itself is $99 and the battery is $110(for 6ah instead of 4ah) and the saw/battery combo is for some reason $278 and is only a 4ah battery. Just Amazon things I guess lol. I just realized I wasn't factoring in the charging base. However, it's only $33, which is still roughly $35 cheaper. I don't know why they do this, unless it's to garner more money from people buying kits. It happens a lot here in the US, I have no idea about the UK though.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you bud. I will change it now. Really hard to keep up with all of the changes price wise and offering. Especially and I am trying to cover all bases. Much appreciated.

[@Vazik05]

@@startmaking1 Oh for sure, that's why I mentioned it, I can only IMAGINE how much time and effort you put into these videos lol. Thought I could help take something off your plate.

[@startmaking1]

That is very kind and much appreciated. They do take a lot of time to make but that is the fun part, the logistics behind all the rest is a little time consuming, things like those links and web site stuff,

[@Vazik05]

@@startmaking1 I can only imagine. But if I'm able to help, I will. It's in my nature lol. Besides, you're making all this great content for us, it's the least I can do.

[@startmaking1]

It is appreciated. Thank you. though, by commenting in general and watching, that is already more than I expect. Thank you

[@Steve-dr7rr]

That cross cut station looks a good idea but not sure might just stay with table saw when I finish my workshop/shed cabin finished painting now need to clear bits out and fit the rubber floor and then try to build workbenches and have no idea what I’m doing just plodding along. Can I ask what size wood did you use for french cleat system and is it easy to do as I’m a complete beginner

[@startmaking1]

Hi Steve I definitely don't think that it could replace a table saw and sled but for a beginner without the larger tools I think it is really handy. As you may have noticed, I don't have power in the shed so for me it is perfect but as soon as I have the capability to get a table saw, I don't think it will be quite so well used. As for the French Cleat system, mine is in no way a good example of what you should do. But if I had to do it again I would happily use 12mm ply for the cleats in both the holders and the wall. It hold everything just fine, though if you want to have a little more confidence, I have some that are 18mm and they work very well. the holders I make out of 12mm ply apart from the clamp holders that are 18mm as they jut out and I wanted a little extra strength. I always glue and screw the cleat to the holder and have not had one fail yet. Plodding along is a great way of doing it. I try to do one shed project followed by one build and keep rotating that way I can plan one while building the other. And the shed always gets improvements done. Keep me informed of how you are doing. I love to hear.

[@blayne2029]

excellent video

[@startmaking1]

Thank you kindly.

[@glennirwin4710]

I totally agree.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Glenn. Thank you very much.

[@kathrynnewton8721]

Don’t have a circular saw, but tips on doing straight notches with the jigsaw would be helpful!

[@startmaking1]

Hi Kathryn. They are a law unto themselves aren't they. I have to say that for perpendicular cuts I still use my speed square and long straight cuts I use an edge guide clamped on. Freehand is really hard and I can only imagine that practise and turning the oscillations down if the jigsaw has that function.

[@matthewryan9323]

Great vid, Mark. I'd been taking a look at this since one of your previous videos, and then Amazon has recently had it on sale for only $20 (US), along with their "portable crosscut" jig for only $10, so I went ahead and got both the other week. After seeing the size (it's actually relatively big!), the speed square trick might be better for smaller boards, but if you have something larger, then the portable crosscut might actually be a benefit. But for only $10, I figured what the heck.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Matthew. That is an absolute bargain. I paid £50 roughly and to be honest it is good for where I am but I still need to progress to a table saw when I can. But if I had paid that at the start and not had to make my ridiculous wooden on, then I would have felt it was great value. one of my next videos is making 6 pine jewellery boxes and not to exaggerate but this jig must have saved me around 3 hours compared to how I used to make the cuts with a hand saw and mitre box. More probably. Thank you for watching as always and for commenting. Love hearing your experiences.

[@gtg-inspections]

Have you tried that jig as a shooting board?

[@startmaking1]

You know, that sounds like it could work. I desperately need one too. I started doubting it a few weeks ago, whether it was square so I made a box and it is the first box I have ever made that is just about perfectly square.

[@WedodgedabulletAmericaFY]

I think i like the one you made better haha, i am in need something like this unfortunately it will be home made by me, wish me luck

[@startmaking1]

My one served me well for years. Nothing wrong with home made.

[@ewok007]

I'm thinking about buying this puppy to start making more things done, however i have a couple questions regarding this product: ¿what happens when that mdf (?) pieces that comes with they all tear out, is it easy to replace them? ¿what about adapting some toggle clamps somewhere, is it possible?

[@startmaking1]

I believe that you can replace it. Mine has had a lot of use and I have scrubbed it up a bit but the cut is still good. The clamps that come with it are only ok. I dont really use them all that much. But it depends on what you are using it for I guess.

[@ewok007]

@@startmaking1 thank you for taking the time to respond me. Amazing channel Cheers from Mexico

[@startmaking1]

More than welcome. Thank you for watching and reaching out.

[@Rakib2788]

I picked up mine few days ago from Menards for $10 USD...even though i didnt need it the price was hard to beat lol( i have a table saw crosscut sled with 18 inch crosscut capacity)

[@startmaking1]

Bargain. like you saw, whether you need it or not, thats good value.

[@TootEmCarMan]

Nice and interesting vid! 😃

[@startmaking1]

Hi Toot. Thank you. Much appreciated. Have a great weekend.

[@TootEmCarMan]

@@startmaking1 Hope you have a great weekend too.

[@mikehinson4062]

I am a recent subscriber, but have binge-watched your videos. And enjoyed them all. I have a 4 1/2 in blade circular saw. It is the Worx 427 and I really like it. I tried making my own crosscut jig. But was not really happy with it. I have been looking at the Kreg for about a month. Your review was a deciding factor for me. I ordered it from Amazon for $20 plus $20 shipping. I live in Colombia. I can cut 43 mm depth with my saw. That looks to me like I will fall just a little short. I plan to add a 3-6 mm (depending on what is needed) MDF board under the Kreg base. My question is, is the base board easily removeable? I hope that 3 mm will be enough. Or do you have a better suggestion? Or will the 43 mm depth work? No reviewer has stated the depth from the top of the guide to the base board. Kreg says it is made for 6 1/2- 7 1/2 in saw.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Mike. Welcome aboard. Thank you for watching all of the videos by the way. Hope that there is something of interest. As far as your saw is concerned I worry that you will fall short by around 1mm or less. The depth of the cut available is 42mm but the rails are at least 1 mm thick which may send you too high. plus you really want a cut line of around 1mm to 2mm depth to create a zero clearance cut and stop unwanted tear out from the bottom of the cut. I will take a look later today as I have a hunch that the front and back boards sit on the base board so taking it off and adding under it may be not possible. From the top of my head it may be easiest to lay a 5mm mdc board ontop of the base. Don't glue it , maybe just 4 strips of double sided tape. One on each of the far sides left and right and then one to either side of the cut line so it will stay level and not sag in the middle even by the width of the tape. I guess alternatively you could hand plane the front and back boards by around 1.5mm to bring the saw closer to the base but this is far more risky. I will double check the base and pop another message up for you. If you decide to put another board on the base I would not worry too much about getting it flush all round so long as the front is perfectly flush with the front board so that you don't get a load of saw dust stuck in the gaps.

[@mikehinson4062]

@@startmaking1 Thanks for the quick response. I felt that I was going to fall a couple of mm short. I didn't want to try and trim the end pieces for 2 reasons: 1-accuracy and 2 - it would throw off the mounting holes for the rails. I felt that adding the extra board below the base would be best. Kreg states that they sell replacements, so it is removeable. Just depends on the placement of the end boards. Maybe I will luck out and the end pieces don't sit on the base. My workshop is smaller than yours. I have 1 section (about 3 meters) of wall on the back patio. I do have 1 20 amp outlet. I built a router table onto the end of my workmate workbench. For now I an just making little trays and boxes using dovetail and box joints. But non-square cuts really show up. Ergo, this jig. Thanks again.

[@startmaking1]

@@mikehinson4062 Good timing Mike. The distance from the top of the metal guide to the base is 45mm. But you are in luck. The base is removable and is not sat under the end pieces. Should be fairly easy to raise it up a bit. Only issue I guess is that you may need slightly longer screws or maybe you can drill the countersink down a touch. either way, should be good to go. You may be the first ever person to watch my videos with a smaller space than me. Though, you have power and so I guess we are even. I make a lot of boxes and that is what led me to this jig. Really handy, though a little sketchy for very small pieces. I may need to rig something up to hold very small pieces down as the clamps are only so good.

[@mikehinson4062]

@@startmaking1 "Really handy, though a little sketchy for very small pieces." I am thinking uf using a small caul to hold the small pieces. My jig has not shipped yet and there is about 2 weeks time to ship to Colombia. But I will let you know how it works. The tool selection here is terrible. And if available, very expensive. 19% import tax, 19% VAT, plus shipping, plus some price gouging. If "necessity is the mother of invention", I should be able to better Edison.

[@mikehinson4062]

@@startmaking1 got mine today. assembled without any problems. I raised the base by using some 3.2mm veneer that I have. The saw fits fine and just barely makes a kerf in the bottom. There is a small space just in front of the back support where it does not touch, but I have a small kerf everywhere else. The increased height does not affect the clamps or bevel gauge which is spot on at the 45 mark. I used a fine point sharpie to darken the line so that old eyes could see it better. A piece of 5mm mdf would raise it a little better. I might try later on if I see any defects in cutting. But for the test cuts, I am very satisfied. Thanks for your review. It sped up my buying process and now the price is almost double again

[@mak4374]

Getting one here in the US, shipping it to Greece.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Mak. I really hope that it is useful to you,. I noticed that it was cheaper in the states by quite a way than the UK ones.

[@startmaking1]

@@mak4374 That is mega good value

[@colinwilson7524]

what about a track or plunge saw with an MFT table?

[@startmaking1]

I really thought hard about that route for a long time. And I was really set on it until I considered all of the learning curve and that the expense was not too different. It would feel safer though for sure. It is an agonising choice. Still not set.

[@kyleolson8977]

@@startmaking1 When you compare this box with a track saw, I don't think you get how powerful a track saw is. And easy to use, which is the real secret. This box is much more comparable to a miter saw replacement than the track/MFT (even though there's always overlap). You would use it the same way as the miter, to the extent possible. It's the kind of tool I made the mistake of buying so I could use one of my existing tools (like the circular saw) rather than getting the right tool. I often spent a lot of money on cheap tools to avoid the expensive tool. This might work but it will always be a huge compromise. As for the track saw, while you can do these cuts with the MFT/Track Saw, you really want it for making much larger cuts than this setup. Additionally, the Track Saw without the MFT allows you to make really long straight cuts on surfaced boards (essentially jointing a side) or larger perpendicular cuts using a square. With some accessories (like a clamp on guide) you can try these cuts without the track saw, but you're constantly fighting for accuracy and squareness that you get completely free with the track saw. When I stopped trying to do these things with a circular saw and got a track saw it was night and day... ...except I tried the Kreg cutting table first because it was a complete package, and it's garbage compared to the MFT. Also, the Kreg saw is not compatible with any standard accessories. Eventually I had a Festool/Makita compatible saw and the situation was better. And there's very little learning curve on the track saw. Without an MFT and with a Track Square it's pretty easy. If you use the MFT, the only hard is adjusting the table when you get it. The only track saw accessory I think is hard is Parallel guides, but there are other options.

[@brucewelty7684]

I won't get the Kreg. Good vid anyway. My main power tool is a Radial arm saw. I am tuning that one in!

[@startmaking1]

You are definitely beyond the kreg Bruce. Radial arm saws are the real deal. Thank you

[@ianmurray3820]

2:54 :- I’ve tried lifting my “ table saw” with one hand in order to run the locked fence along the speed square to make the straight cut but I’m finding it really difficult.!! What am I doing wrong..???..😂😂😂

[@startmaking1]

Love that comment. You are the first to pick up my mistake. Love the mental image.

[@Harti243]

the other thing you could use this jig for is to flatten boards with your router

[@startmaking1]

Hi, I love that idea. What a clever use. Great for small charcuterie boards and things like live edge coasters. And I was initially thinking it would be a pain to move the bars for the narrower router base but a piece of perspex cut to size would negate that issue. thank you so much for the inspiration. Amazing,.

[@Harti243]

If you use a piece of Perspex one other thing you can do is to put a hole in for a vacuum cleaner hose so that you have less mess at the end

[@a9ball1]

FYI, I just checked the USA link and it's 60% off as of June 12th. $20

[@startmaking1]

Oh brilliiant. That is good news. Thank you

[@nore8141]

Loved the video thanks 🙏

[@startmaking1]

Thank you

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

'Not easy...' Compared to, say, quantum mechanics, it kinda is... If you want to cut square (accurately) with a circular saw you use a track saw. The kreg unit is basically an upside-down saw sled, which people make all the time. Worth (if you don't want the cost of a table saw) making a table that takes your circular saw upside down. You now have a table saw to which you can add a (self made) sled. Gives less tear-out, and you can do rip cuts too. Add a router mount, and you have a router table as well... There is reason the table saw is the heart of most wood shops. Although, for sheet materials, you can make a case for the tracksaw instead (with suitable table, easy to make).

[@startmaking1]

I agree, though I would never be brave enough to mount a circular saw upside down without any of the safety features of a table saw. This is a great bit of kit for a beginner and in my opinion all beginners need a circular saw. It may not be the most important but it is useful at all times and stages of your journey. I used a home made jig for a long time and it fell out of square way too much.

[@mikeking7470]

60% off on Amazon this week! (Maybe a close out item?)

[@startmaking1]

Thank you Mike. It's a funny one because in the US this has been on sale on and off since I made the video. Really strange. the UK, not so much.

[@mikeking7470]

@@startmaking1 Kreg may be promoting their new track saw here in the US.

[@startmaking1]

Wonder if it is any good.

[@chilidog73]

I love this but, mine at least, is not perfectly square. Off 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch.

[@startmaking1]

Really? Not saying you are wrong but that surprises me. I thought mine was but when I checked the base if the saw, it was that that was off. Have you checked your saw.

[@trialnterror]

I found this on Amazon shipped for 19.00 us dollars

[@startmaking1]

Great value. I love mine still

[@MrMikeEdie]

Is it jsut me or is the audio super quiet?

[@startmaking1]

Hi. It could be. In fact yes it is. It is the first video used a wireless mic. I had a few issues. Sorry.

[@richc9503]

A true square cut is deceivingly tough.

[@startmaking1]

How right you are Rich. Tough and frustrating.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

This is, of course, no such thing. Everything has tolerances. A machinist is constantly aware of this, and works to defined tolerances that will result in a working item. Woodworkers seem to think they can achieve perfection, when actually both the need and the possibility are not there. The lack of tolerances marked on a woodworking drawing is not an indication of required perfection, but a recognition that it is not available. Back in the day, there was an engineering occupation called a 'fitter'. His job was exactly that, to fit metal parts to each other using hand tools. Virtually extinct, since machine tools can now make interchangeable parts (via accuracy and tolerance design). Woodworkers are, in general, a wood version of a fitter.

[@richc9503]

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Why a machinist would even get in this conversation is beyond me. When I start machining plate steel with my tablesaw I'll contact you.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

@@richc9503 It is not about what you are machining, it is about understanding precision and tolerances. And who said I am a machinist? I am an engineer, and that covers all materials. I cannot count how many times I have heard a woodworker claim something is 'perfectly square'. It shows such an ignorance of the world that I am almost speechless. Almost.

[@richc9503]

​@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Kind of like understanding that what you are comparing is completely out of context and the fact that the two have mothing in common. You are arguing about tolerances which are completely different given the substrates.

[@christianwithers7335]

£60 for a Kreg, or £160 for DWS774 ?

[@christianwithers7335]

Sorry I have binged on your channel, but forgot you have no mains!! Do not buy a battery mitre saw. If you buy a 20kg unit it stays in the shop. A 10kg one can be moved anywhere. Love your channel 👌

[@startmaking1]

difficult depending on situation. For me you are right, this is a. no brainer due to the lack of power. but for someone with power, I see the reason to overlook it. At the time of filming though, these were $20 in the US and around £45 in the UK. So I felt that it was a better recommendation. You would not believe how long I looked at a battery, Makita mitre saw. I think it was a whopping £750 .I was close to getting it but just couldn't bring myself to do it. Glad now that I didn't . PS thank you for watching every video, not gone unnoticed.

[@hughbryce4336]

You need to improve sound i could barely hear you.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you for letting me know. Quite an old one this video. Worth seeing if the latest one is still as bad as I think the sound should be good.

[@violian5]

I paid $15 for this from Menards.

[@startmaking1]

absolute bargain. I hope you get the use from it that I have.

[@delaSarge]

Cheap!?!? ...the shipping costs are just about the same as the price.....

[@startmaking1]

Hi. I can only generalise in the title. I can't specify which countries etc. I am sorry if you cannot get it at a reasonably price. It seems that the US get the best deal here. Thank you for watching though and for commenting.