Hayden M6 BT07 Primary Chain Tensioner Install on 2009 Roadking

After looking all over KZbin for an intallation video for the Hayden
M6 BT07 Primary Chain Tensioner and NOT finding one, I decided to make
my first "How To" Harley video. I am just a backyard mechanic and I am
learning by doing work on my own 2009 Roadking. Hope this helps you out.

[@denman0621]

I ended up putting mine in a vice, and putting two zip ties on to keep the spring compressed. Once I got it installed and the bolts tightened down, I cut the zip ties off. Made it LOADS easier.

[@muckman46]

Awsome video mate. Good to see rookies doing their own repairs and showing others. Thanks mate.

[@TubeBrowser2]

You did great dude. Don't be discouraged by - comments. 99% of us are rookies on this job. Learned plenty. Thanks.

[@RichardSchlegel]

Thanks 👍

[@ericwebb3669]

Good job man- I like that you said I am not a professional- thanx for helping out your fellow riders

[@malcolmross8246]

Thanks Richard. Great video helped me heaps. From a fellow rookie backyard mechanic

[@normb28]

i zip tie mine to compress the spring it slide right in then i screwed in the right screw first and then i used a screw drive to pry it up the left side with very little pressure..then screwed it in to snugged the bolts in first without loctite to check the chain tension then unscrewed them and added loctite. re-screwed them . and then i torque them to spec then cut the Zip tie very simple ... blue loctite..

[@robertglancy4474]

I have a 2012 Road King with about 40k on it and just became aware of this potential problem while doing my research on a cam swap. Going to change out the primary oil and see if I can take a look through the derby cover. Probably going to a be project in the near future though with the same tensioner, thanks for the video.

[@badassst124z]

Thanks for posting, but here are a few suggestions. First, make several dry runs so you know what you’re doing before trying to explain a procedure to others. Second, review procedures in a Harley service manual beforehand for the same reason. Primary cover screws often come in more than one length. Obviously they need to go in the right places to avoid thread damage and other problems. Also, Harley is very specific about the tightening sequence for primary covers, and it is not a typical x-pattern. Tightening usually starts in the center, moves to the front, then the rear to provide correctly distributed clamping force on the gasket. Thanks for taking us through the basics of installing the Hayden tensioner, but instructional videos require professional-level preparation if you’re going to do right by your viewers.

[@RichardSchlegel]

+Tommy J. Thats why I said I wasn't a professional. I wanted to show you from a regular guy aspect. with mistakes and all.

[@Lenny-de6df]

C-clamp to get it started

[@scottvanthof4906]

You're absolutely correct I own a older ironhead and when it got hot I was embarrist how it would sound clankity clank even my.cut off drag pipes wouldn't cover that hidios sound I put a m/6 tensioner in and no more bag of marbles if that company made a bike Hayden I would start saving for one it was the best money I spent

[@TLAUGUSTINE1]

Thats why you have starter pegs to hang the gasket on hang the cover put your bolts in remove pegs add bolts and tighten.

[@midnightrun7]

Can use a tigh-rap to hold it down while installing and one large one for the chain to get out of your way, maybe? I didn't do mine yet. Good Luck!

[@tomcata1467]

Great informative video and great music to boot. So, how many miles on the bike, to prompt you to change out the primary tensioner? And have you inspected or changed out the two other PLASTIC tensioners, on the two silent chain drives for the camshaft on the pinion shaft side, since those tensioners have the same mileage as the primary side tensioner? When you do, that job, you should make a how to video also. Inspection is not hard to do, but, the actual change out is much more complicated, involving finding top dead center on the pistons, and lifting the pushrod tubes up and taking a bolt cutter to the four pushrods and replacing them with adjustable, pushrods, so, you don't have to remove the fuel tank and the rocker box cover and rocker boxes to take out the pushrods from the top. to get to changing out the outer silent chain drive and the inboard one, inside the cam support plate. And you should change out the cam shaft bearings while you are doing the change out of the tensioners. And don't forget to check the crankshaft run-out on the pinion shaft after taking off the oil pump, and seeing if it's still within spec, which should be no more than when it was new from the factory, set at 0.001" or less, with a dial indicator. Anymore run-out than that, will show that the crankshaft has twisted and is out of true, which can happen on the TC engine, since, the crankshaft is only pressed together, without the crank pin being either welded, at the factory, to keep the two halves of the crankshaft in true or with a crank pin bolt and nut torqued down to keep the crankshaft in true, like the older single cam H-D, used to have that kind of arrangement to keep the crankshaft in true. At 0.003" or run out on the crankshaft, damage to all the bushings and bearings inside the engine will begin to be damaged and once the crankshaft has come out of true, it will just keep getting worse till the engine craters and seizes up on you, and you wouldn't want that to happen while at highways speed with a locked up rear wheel and a cratered oil pump spewing out hot oil all over the rear tire, that would be bad, bad, news, for you. Don't go by the H-D, run out specs of up to 0.010", as shown on the Service Manual, cause they changed the spec from a max run-out of 0.001", a few years ago, to disguise the fact that the crankcases are not bolted together, instead of fixing the problem at the factory. At 0.010", you won't be riding, as the engine will already be gone. Just a heads up. Again, great video.

[@privateaccount7560]

are you serious bro 😂 please tell me ur kidding 🤣 lol

[@Gr8Layks]

Thanks for the upload, man! I'm like you, per your Vid Desc: "I am just a backyard mechanic and I am learning by doing work on my own 2009 Roadking." P.S., Still listening to Van Halen? LOL

[@RichardSchlegel]

+Anonymous Yeah. still listening to Van Halen.

[@texastexas100]

Hows the Hayden working? I put one in my 2012 ultra a few years ago.The first one they sent me made the chain way to tight. I called Hayden and they sent me some shorter springs. That made all the difference. It seemed to work well but I sold the bike so I don't know how it held up.

[@RichardSchlegel]

Bobby It’s still working great. I haven’t had any problems at all with it.

[@DoucetteMichael]

Richard, what was the reasoning behind putting that tensioner in? was it the clunking in gears, hard to find neutral prior to the install? Great video, love the listening tunes Rock on Brother :)

[@RichardSchlegel]

Mine was noisy and very clunky. Plus The original ratcheted. so if you hit a bump hard enough it click tighter and will stretch the chain prematurely.

[@wooddawg4868]

BRUH I see all these videos about the primary chain and tensioner but I wanna know one thing. Why in the hell is Harley Davidson still using a chain primary drive system? Clearly a gear drive primary system is less work, less maintenance, and smoother running, then HD can use the same primary cover for appearances.

[@RichardSchlegel]

Frank Wood not sure. Maybe you should ask Harley.

[@mlunden11]

Thanks great vid. I have a 2000 fatboy can i use that tensioner

[@RichardSchlegel]

Thanks! I'm not sure if it will or not. I would think they would make one that does fit it.

[@MyllekeBas]

Great music 😉

[@dwbaxer69]

Great video on how NOT to install Hayden tensioner.

[@RichardSchlegel]

Thank you. I’m guessing you think you can do better. That isn’t really saying much since this was my first time and I didn’t want to edit out the mistakes.

[@christoforospilitsis541]

thanks dude.

[@RichardSchlegel]

You're welcome!

[@RichardSchlegel]

After riding awhile now, there are times when it doesn't make a sound when putting it in 1st. still running smooth.

[@milesteg402]

+Richard Schlegel (iAmRockinRich) If you pull your clutch in for about 2 to 3 seconds before putting it into first you should get no clunk most the time.... I get a clunk when the motor is cold, but if I do the 2 to 3 second think when its hot I almost always get a smooth transition from neutral to first.

[@RichardSchlegel]

+milesteg402 Not on my roadking. It clunked no matter how long I hold the clutch in.

[@hankhamern5456]

E for efforts, lol every one seems to be wearing gloves now days. Can't get those hands dirty. Lol

[@sandeepveeramani]

Richard Schlegel - Can you please help me understand why you are doing this? I am a new rider and am trying to learn how to work on my bike. I am not sure what this is for. I too have an 09 FLHRC with 9100 miles on it. Thanks in advance.

[@RichardSchlegel]

+Sandeep Veeramani (sandman) Sorry for not replying sooner. The stock tensioner works on a ratcheting system. Sometimes if you a bump hard enough it will click up and tighten the chain. It stretches it out pre-maturly. The Hayden is constant tension. It is quieter.

[@Lenny-de6df]

The factory tensioner because it self adjusts it over tightens the primary chain the Haden type is preset and remains how you set it it doesn't tighten itself when the chain is to tight it puts extra pressure on the clutch bearings as well as the compensator because the tightened chain is trying to pull them together

[@gdubbsmotolife9713]

This video reminds me of an old Chevy Chase movie

[@RichardSchlegel]

Which one?

[@vaclavvaclav8080]

The way how not to do that and finally chain is overtighten, there must be a space 9,6mm 3/8inch between shoe and base, less space means unhealthy tension, if you chain is too short lathe hole in base of tensioner or don't use it

[@millionmilesman]

NASA calling you,,,,, (they need an engineer)

[@55ironrebel]

LOL He didn't even read the instruction lol like my brother is the same way...

[@edwardtoscano]

M

[@midnightrun7]

I need to do mine...No instructions with the M6 BT07? How did it run after it was all put together? Looked a little tight, Is it hydraulic or spring loaded. btw Richard, you have to have patience when working on these bikes. Very easy to F something up. Nice and easy like rubbing nipples or other female private parts...Nice and easy....

[@RichardSchlegel]

It ran good. Seemed smoother and quieter. It is spring loaded.

[@midnightrun7]

Glad it ran good for you. I trying to decide if I should go with the Baker $200.00 Primary Chain Attitude Adjuster. I just can't seem to pull the trigger on $200 bucks. The Clutches won't even cost that much. Good Luck-

[@RichardSchlegel]

+midnightrun7 not sure if you decided yet but you might want to contact Jimmy Wagner from a comment above. kzbin.info

[@TLAUGUSTINE1]

It Looks like junk! I wouldnt put that in my bike if it was given to me! a half ass part with springs in it! You got to be kiddin me! OK I take that back MAYBE for the putt putt rider but for performance no Thank you! I want an adjustable solid mounted adjuster no spring loaded parts.

[@RichardSchlegel]

+Tod Augustine I ride an average of 10,000 miles a year. Not sure if I would consider that a putt putt rider. If you like pulling yours apart to adjust it then have fun.

[@exracer2002]

personally i don't accept this unit as a better than stock ratchet system, as primary chain flops around like a dead chicken....better off with screaming eagle manual adjuster..

[@RichardSchlegel]

+Jimmy Wagner Well, it is. just read up on it. the ratchet system sometime prematurely stretches the chain. When you hit a hard bump the ratchet will jump up a click.

[@exracer2002]

+Richard Schlegel (iAmRockinRich) I also have read some articles on it as well, but when I checked mine every off season it has been fine, I only switched to manual adjuster because it shows a HP gain on the Baker dyno chart, and like to squeeze every last drop out of her, but it is much noisier than the stock unit. cheers jimmy

[@michaelhelton2394]

You should get a job at a Harley Davidson dealership, that's exactly how they do it, and fuck things up

[@RichardSchlegel]

Didn’t “fuck” anything up. Still running great with no problems.

[@davidbrown9689]

Check out the instructions or youtube videos before you try installing that

[@RichardSchlegel]

Why is that? It's been on my bike for 9 years and I haven't had one problem with it.

[@shaneballance8277]

You have no idea what your doing.

[@RichardSchlegel]

shane ballance really? And how many bikes have you worked on? Did you not hear the part where I said I was a backyard mechanic?

[@shaneballance8277]

@@RichardSchlegel 18 years working on Harley's,from complete rebuilds,to customs..let a pro do it, before you f up...got lucky

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

@@shaneballance8277 Shane... yur a douche...