Pt.3 Making this MONSTER DIY Battery safe!

[@coulombicdistortion1814]

It looks like your battery management board has din rail mounts on the back of it. I highly suggest bolting a small bit of din rail to the enclosure and mounting the management system to that, instead of cutting those mounts off and bolting the management system directly to the box. It will also be much easier to remove and put back in the management board in the future if you use din rail. Din rail also allows you to easily mount relays, breakers, and other common industrial automation components if you want to expand the system's functionality in the future.

[@HBPowerwall]

I had a din rail temporarily attached and I will definitely will need it, was more thinking aloud trying to brainstorm the cleanest install possible.

[@naturalorang3]

@@HBPowerwall put it all on that flip up lid on top!

[@HBPowerwall]

Considered that... but only for a short time.

[@WaynesWorld999]

I was thinking exactly this. use some dome phillips head screws from the outside in, and finish with nyloc nuts on the inside. This makes for a clean finish.

[@TheServerGeek]

Usually in building a control or equipment panels like this, we mount prefabbed rail, placing or making one or two brackets horizontally in an 'L' shape from the back plate to the front return edge where the door will butt up to. This allows for mounting DIN Rail as suggested but also does not require drilling holes through the outside wall of the cabinet.

[@grahamlewis7616]

Hi, I have watched all 300+ videos of yours, I am an Electronics Engineer living in SW Sydney and working in the television industry I have been gathering old battery packs and I have enjoyed watching the evolution of your system. You have made the mistakes and have had the successors so I can avoid problems so I thank you so much for your companionship through this, my build is now at an advance state to the point that even my wife is impressed. My system is starting on the low side but I have made it scalable so when I get more batteries I can store more, my system has a solar/wind turbine control system that I have designed and build basically the microcontoller manages between solar and wind for the best charging. My budget does not extend to the Batium BMS so I am building the DIY BMS v4. There is so much I could tell you about what I have been through so far but I dont want to clog up the comments, I just wanted to say thank you, as you have made me laugh and yell "DONT DO IT" while watching but most of all I learnt new things even now. Thanks. Graham.

[@terry3735]

Well said.

[@HBPowerwall]

If your wife is happy i've done my job well lol A BMS is a BMS as long as you trust it. Thanks for the comment Graham!

[@daarmc5205]

This is what I wanted to say too, thank you

[@Stefan_Dahn]

3:55 Do I get that right? You are ripping half of the batteries apart, because you want to avoid 1 cable from one side to the other??? 🤔

[@danielclasson]

Yeah.. that's just.. borderline. Good video tho.

[@sorkmine]

@@sammie9999 Its a matter of him wanting his craft to be as good and neat as he can make it. Less cable length equals less resistance aswell. In a sense hes also taking note of a mistake and correcting it. Call it OCD, call it professional pride.. either will work.

[@excitedbox5705]

@@sorkmine but has the cells mounted, so they swing like a hinge and can short out from the smallest vibration. He almost shorted them just putting his hand on it. They need to be mounted positive to positive, negative to negative AND have a rubber insulator. The whole mount should also be flipped so the "hook" keeps the cells from sliding out in case of an earthquake and strapped across the front mounting them to the cabinet. This job would never pass inspection solely because the batteries are + - are facing and the cells are not fastened down.

[@QuantumBraced]

@@excitedbox5705 They cannot short each other the way they are oriented. If 2 adjacent modules make contact, it's just reinforcing the series connection that's already there. Adjacent modules are already connected to each other, see how the busbars connect. I agree about strapping them though or supporting them further, it seems like they could potentially slide out.

[@pianojacq]

@@QuantumBraced And those straps should be made of something that is fireproof because otherwise *if* there is a small fire it will instantly cascade into a much bigger one because the straps will let go.

[@powerupminion]

That on the backside of the BMS is for mouting it on a DIN-rail. It's a very neat mouting solution and you should deffenently look into that. It's easy to mount the rail, a more reliable mounting solution and VERY EASY to change out if need be. DIN-rails is what we use in industri and homes for mouting electrical components in pretty much anything running anywere from a mechines to a large industri buildings.

[@JDX-]

May have already been suggested. But as heat rises, you want to pull cool air in from the bottom, and extract at the top Might recommend changing the bottom fans to vents with hepa dust filters, and two larger 48v fans above the batteries, and potentially mid way up on the side, again with hepa filters Check the total airflow volume on the fans to ensure they can extract 1.5/2x volume of the cabinet air within a minute and you may need a fan controller setup (if it’s not in BMS / thermal monitoring system) If you’re direct mounting to the shipping container, you’ll need to take into account external heat transference from the skin of the container to the box, and some thermal insulating board / stand offs between the container wall and the box to minimise heat conduction. (Of course depends on position and how much light/heat the container wall will get. Would consider sealing the gaps so you have known airflow performance Bugger off the steel front door, and replace with 3-5mm perspex with appropriate hardware if you really want to get the best out of the RGB, and save some weight ! I used to do industrial Datacentre / PLC design, and we’d focus on front to back cooling, how ever our PLC cabs were always top fan bottom vented Particle and humidity sensors if you want to go over the top, and tied into the fan controller This is all stated, not knowing the condition of the container it’s going into. Assuming you will be sandblasting, and primering the shipping container to remove and reduce any oxidisation of the internal and having rust particles floating around (hence sealed unit with hepa filters)

[@HBPowerwall]

filters are in the mail and i've changed from 48v to 12v fans with speed controller.

[@jimjones7821]

Heat does NOT rise ! Hot AIR rises, but heat itself does not. Common misconception.

[@howardemerich314]

@@jimjones7821 It's not a misconception it's just the way people speak. People who are not anal.

[@jimjones7821]

@@howardemerich314 Nothing anal about it. Physics is physics.

[@rhiantaylor3446]

Thanks for the video, entertaining as always. Personally I would like a big-picture video i.e. average household consumption, peak load, average battery usage overnight summer/winter, how you sized your battery, how they have performed over multiple cycles over time - that sort of thing

[@HBPowerwall]

Great suggestion! but i've done those to death i feel on my house battery.. Once this one is installed i'm be sure to cover off all the loads, heat, etc

[@bokunochannel84207]

you did more than hard work. total dedication.

[@HBPowerwall]

Thank-You

[@peterduxbury927]

I would secure some unequal Angle above those Battery Retainers. Fasten the slim side of the Unequal Angle to the back wall of the Cabinet, and the broad side of the Angle can rest on top of your Battery Brackets, thus preventing them from 'lifting' as the Battery Packs try to dislodge themselves. Then, you can use the Velcro Straps for something else. Your videos are first-class, and we are all learning. Looking at your goals, it seems that you could go completely off-grid when the hard work is done. Excellent work.

[@JethroMeijercom]

please turn the fans around to blow in the box (not out) heat goes up so help the natural flow. if you put the fans on the downside of the box they must blow in.

[@HBPowerwall]

They are

[@Dust599]

OCD, confirmed, there was no need to reconfigure the lower batteries!

[@HBPowerwall]

huge need - would have to run meters of extra cable to account for my error

[@Dingbat217]

@@HBPowerwall Yeah but now you have two different 24V packs, so if you wanted to replace one of them you can't just pick a random 24V pack but have to make sure kt's the same way around as the one you're replacing. You would have had max 2m extra battery cables which should not be a problem at all if the cables are fat enough in the first place.

[@HBPowerwall]

it's one 48v battery now.. initially it was 24v

[@GrossGeneralization]

I agree with these guys; better to keep each module identical rather than having half in a mirrored configuration. Never too late to rip off the nickel strip and put it back :P

[@richjackson860]

@@HBPowerwall I was curious why you didn't just change the bare copper wire configuration? Did I miss something in your design that prevented that?

[@MrSkinny602]

I would put the vent holes at the bottom where you said you were going to put the fans. Then put a larger or two dual fans at the top creating a suction flow across the batteries. Only other question you might want to think about is are you going to move the existing batteries to the conex box? If you are you may want to have your bms outside of that smaller battery box.

[@HBPowerwall]

Really want the BMS outside, i got all the gear for it but its so much cleaner inside. Fans have already been mounted in the bottom plan on blocking all air gaps at the bottom so all the heat rises and goes out the top. Fans will be able to change the air inside the box every minute or two.

[@pthomasgarcia]

I like how this guy absolutely does not settle for less

[@HBPowerwall]

Well…… might be an overstatement 😂

[@valcomaustralia]

We use an in field battery replacement kit that contains basically bags of sand. There are only few options to make it really safe in case of cell rupture or fires it's to put sand bags around your cabinets or blocks of concrete.

[@anthonyprice5615]

I would have put a high voltage Insulator matt behind the main hanger as they are metal and so is your cabinet.I know you are only 48v but if someone else dose the same but higher voltage could be a problem....I would also lay insulation inside the hole storage unit....I use it for when I'm welding ...Great videos

[@HBPowerwall]

At 2mm thick & plus 80kg for the cabnet I think i'll leave it how it is lol

[@seanwynkoop474]

Nice Pete.... I haven't been doing much with my 15s setup . . . Life has a way of getting in the way ... Or should I say work has a way of getting in the way . . . You new system looks nice ... a step above !

[@HBPowerwall]

Work/Life has been a bottle neck - i started this change the day after the second video :(

[@elijuseee]

Hi, BMS is DIN mounted, so two more hols for DIN rail won't be so bad and BMS will have proper cooling. For cable management I would suggest cable trays above the batteries pack, and all cables put in to trays.

[@HBPowerwall]

Thanks for the info! - Not a fan of cable trays in such a tight spot but they might be a good way of tidying up the cables even more.

[@elijuseee]

@@HBPowerwall i see you're clean look fan 😁

[@HBPowerwall]

Clean is typically also safer in most cases

[@DadsDeerTrailCam]

For me personally, it's always nice to have polycarbonate insulators anywhere I've got more then 40 VDC. I'd probably also put it between each of your segments, but that's just me. Technically it doesn't matter if the segments bang into each other from what I can tell, but you can never be too careful. Also, those nickel strips your using, are they going to make a 20A version of them? I love how elegant they are, but I'd need a higher rating for my purposes.

[@allancross9680]

Hot air rises so you need to mount the fans at the top to expel the hot air or suck cold air in from the bottom, which is not as efficient. I like the cabinet. Perhaps a ratchet strap for added security.

[@theunssnyman6310]

Pete, the industry standard since we all began!! Super bud.

[@HBPowerwall]

Industry standard is a massive call lol 😂 thanks mate

[@theunssnyman6310]

@@HBPowerwall keep at it bud, we all love these videos, just because LFP cells have become maintsream, doesnt mean we are all progressing there. I a still on lead acid and 18650 s. Cheers.

[@HBPowerwall]

extremely hard to keep with it, day job makes more consistent money - I need to focus on growing the Console Repair business as the long term goal is to buy property out in the bush and do all the repairs via Mail-In Service rather than man a workshop. Looked at a spot on the weekend but it's two lifetimes of wages to buy the block, don't mention the house/fences/sheds etc...

[@jjhall14]

"Are you watching the Australian battery guy still?" She screeches from across our 700 square foot corona prison.

[@HBPowerwall]

If she want's to join she is a keeper

[@daarmc5205]

My wifes face goes blank 10 seconds after I tell her about the latest installment

[@HBPowerwall]

A good blank or a Divorce type of blank

[@daarmc5205]

@@HBPowerwall A shutup talking blank look. Wait till she sees the spotwelder!

[@HBPowerwall]

@@daarmc5205 lol

[@bobbiac]

Really think you should be using a 66 block with bridge clips for your signal wiring. Easy way to cable manage, provide a test point, and interrupts. Mount it to a removable plate / plywood with your electronics. Also.. why not have a cutoff switch in between those 2 banks? Maybe some sort of bypass with xt90 connectors or a mechanical circuit breaker?

[@HBPowerwall]

Don't you think my solution is simple cheap and effective? I will have to google what you're referring too.. There is only one 14P battery do you mean a midpoint fuse?

[@bigfirepop]

One suggestion, adding Kapton tape ontop of the batteries. The areas which face inward to each other, with the copper wire so close makes me a little iffy otherwise, but I don't know nearly as much as you do so I could just be worrying about nothing :) Awesome stuff btw

[@HBPowerwall]

There are layers of safety, the cell holders, cell insulators, cell heat shrink, teflon insulators

[@SidneyCritic]

Don't know if you have anything planned for the front door, but rails on the side that the door slides in and then lifted and held with a string that goes over the batteries. When the string burns it slides shut like a guillotine - lol. You could also have it side hinged and counter weighted so it always shuts, then a string holding it open. I always thought that thin strip on the mount was going to be a problem. It really needed to be something like 6-8mm thick.

[@HBPowerwall]

door just lifts off, nothing more planed for that. Love the simple idea of a burn cable but think the batrium features will have me covered for now.

[@JamesThompson-xl4yu]

On your cabinet, use aluminum angle mounted on the side and across the bottom of the battery to support it with cork padding on the angles. This will take the load off the mounts and stabilize it a bit.

[@HBPowerwall]

Bottom is fine hasn't deflected at all, THE TOP is a different story.. not good

[@JamesThompson-xl4yu]

@@HBPowerwall I was meaning, The angles were for weight support to keep the top from leaning out do to some sagging. But if the bottom doesn't sag, why is the top sagging? I would love to build a battery bank like this, but using Lifepo cells for better fire safety. Keep the passion! :)

[@HBPowerwall]

It’s levering out it’s actually pushing the mount up

[@allangilbert77]

A smoke sensor with a CO2 extinguisher exhaust direct into the cabinet , would be a good edition. CO2 extinguisher parts can be gotten from race car shop. Smoke sensor connected to the batrium for auto shut off. Oh if anyone is interested , you can find these cabinets at the dump shops all the time.

[@HBPowerwall]

Already have a fire alarm with inbuilt relay to trigger shunt trip, CO2 would be useless on a lithium fire as they projuce their own oxygen

[@allangilbert77]

@@HBPowerwall co2 is for the temperature drop not the oxygen, thought it would slow it down . And the smoke alarm is internal to the cabinet = faster reaction to issues.

[@PetterBruland]

Never seen a person work so hard at staying away from his wife. Undoing that battery bank almost brought tears to my eyes.

[@HBPowerwall]

Situation has only got worse, now I have two classic minis! You can't believe how much more time I HAVE TO spend out here lol

[@AveRage_Joe]

Looking GREAT!!!! Your gonna have to tell me how to wire in those Led's. I got some for the same purpose!🤘💥

[@HBPowerwall]

Will do :P As long as I don't make it go BOOM

[@LithiumSolar]

Looks great! Can't believe you redid all of that nickel just to change the cable side lol. Just mount the Batrium on the side, no electrical case. Batrium is part of the "show & tell" too, not just the batteries. Also, better cooling having it in free air.

[@HBPowerwall]

It's about the batteries - Almost have to hide everything else 😆Time to do some mockups to visualize the finished product.

[@HBPowerwall]

I might have to reconsider my planned approach

[@junkmail4613]

8:51 Don't use adhesion, it never lasts, and failure is like falling off a cliff, (No time like "the present of that instance" to start growing wings!!!) further, at 6:56 Velcro is based on adhesion too, unless you use screws to affix the velcro to the two surfaces to be attached together! at 6:56 I would recommend an electrician's nylon wire-tie, hooked around the two opposing plastic brackets where the 3 batteries are missing. Have the wire-tie go around the two plastic frames, go behind the "front-most" vertical plate of that support bracket, and both wire-tie straps OVER the horizontal bar coming forward supporting the vertical plate. nylon is high temperature, (220C, 225C, 255C) chemically and mechanically resistant to degradation, and like a hundred-year landfill rating. The batteries won't last that long, so likely wire-ties will be replaced before self-decomposition of nylon. At 8:51 I would suggest mounting ONLY to the back-panel, a key-hole in the rear upper back-wall, and a small bracket attached to the bottom outside of the plastic box, (Pair of screws up and down through the bracket and the bottom of the box) (Another one or two screws, Machine-screws through the bracket and threaded into the back panel) ( At 8:51, If you mounted the box a bit lower, instead of a key-hole, you might instead use a bracket from the top of the plastic box to the back-panel, mounted low-enough to allow hand access to the top bracket to back-panel mounting screws.)

[@ioannissianos7651]

Great job! The only thing I would change is the fan location, I would put them closer to the top because hot air rises up.

[@HBPowerwall]

There are all air gaps at the top, and fans already fitted at the bottom. Hope it works lol

[@KillaDukeBadMan]

Man your timing on these videos is exceptional, I am just finishing putting the cells together for pack 14 and just looking into getting a sheet metal case build with a mounting rail for the pack mounting plates. I was worried about the mounting points being strong enough for a 200p pack, my plan is to cut off the top flap and have a strap going from the top bar the holds the flap to the bottom mounting point. This way I only lose the 3 cells at the bottom for contact on the mounting point and the top is restrained to the back plate with a strap and buckle. I was going to rivet the strap to the top bar and the bottom mounting points. The idea was mainly to prevent the packs being moving incase of a freak earthquake or physical damage to the battery box.

[@HBPowerwall]

I do what i can lol 2mm steel would have been a much stronger option for this build but i'm using what I already had. How ever considering making some stronger ones if i can sell them on.

[@kasperholmj]

The BMS is already prepared for a DIN rail - put 20 cm of DIN rail on the side of the cabinet and click on the BMS, easy to click on, and easy to take off again if you need to replace it or do other changes...

[@HBPowerwall]

But changing things is what I do hehe - nar i think i have a plan, now to make it work

[@QsTechService1]

Can’t wait to finish seeing the build 👍

[@HBPowerwall]

Me either lol

[@konk407]

I would put the batrium in your fist idea. Good video mateeee

[@HBPowerwall]

Good choice!

[@Aleziss]

8:40 those are for DIN rails mount, they do a neat job.

[@HBPowerwall]

Thanks :)

[@Aleziss]

@@HBPowerwall you're welcome, it looks like this : www.google.com/search?q=din+rail&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjYwJuT0LXsAhXEGd8KHVEvBa8Q2-cCegQIABAA&oq=din+rail&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzIECCMQJzICCAAyAggAMgQIABAeMgQIABAeMgQIABAeMgQIABAeMgQIABAeMgQIABAeMgQIABAeOgQIABATULYcWMgzYOE3aABwAHgAgAFGiAG_BZIBAjExmAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&sclient=img&ei=972HX5jpEsSz_AbR3pT4Cg&bih=937&biw=1920&safe=off

[@burn1down249]

I'm really into this man, great work!

[@mondotv4216]

Great work Pete - have you thought about redesigning the brackets? I don’t think the velcro is satisfactory as the fabric may stretch over time. Plus the slope of the metal tabs will tend to push it to the wall with the forces on it.

[@HBPowerwall]

Its has been drawn up but not in the budget at the moment, i will update on the next run of mounts I make

[@HandyC]

Great start, looks good so far, i'd probably put the fan(s) on the side rather than the front though. As for the batrium, i'd have it on show but have the wires going into a conduit box /channel to keep them hidden.👍🏼😎

[@HBPowerwall]

Thanks for the tips! Fan holes have already been ' installed ' too late to change that part

[@HandyC]

HBPowerwall DOH! 🙈😁

[@HBPowerwall]

no DOH comes when you see how well aligned the first one is lol

[@JDX-]

Bottom fan holes can be converted to grill + filters easily mate

[@HBPowerwall]

Thats the plan lol

[@adamcecere3369]

Hey Pete, I have mentioned before that I had you brackets done in 3mm and this seems strong enough for your size packs. However I don't see it a problem to use 4mm. Or make the bar wider.

[@HBPowerwall]

Yeh, i a few have done thicker - in hindsight it's a good idea

[@markbabbitt143]

You could weld the din rails to the side. you’re probably gonna need three rows eventually. I would’ve left a little more room on one side or the other for the management electronics, meters and such. I would like to know if this is a building code requirement and what are you gonna do about the other batteries on the wall beside it if so? Also Couldn’t you just run longer cables instead of reengineering the battery and then equalize the length of the cables. Cable management seems easier.

[@HBPowerwall]

Kinda a code requirement but also i want it to look professional. I could have run longer cables but decided on this path.. no regrets yet!

[@gordonw9208]

This guy is the battery hunter. Instead of wrestling crocodiles and monitor lizards, he finds those discarded laptop batteries and gets them placed back into their natural environment, flowing with current.

[@darrenosb81]

Like the fans on the bottom. Ideas would be intake from bottom and have some fans on top for exhaust to create good air flow.

[@HBPowerwall]

Ideally yes, and that's how my other sheds work, but ... and but is a thing.. I would have needed to put vents down the bottom and there was already hard to seal gaps at the top so went with mother nature and the old hot air rises theory.

[@DaRockCRX]

There is a special sand material that is used to encapsulate batteries when they are in thermal runaway. We have this stuff in our battery workshop for safety in a metal container. We also want to use it in a doubles headliner in our new battery test container. As soon as something happens and the roofliner gets burned, the sand drops onto the fire. I don’t know how it’s called but it should be findable on the internet. You could do something like that as well to make it extremely safe.

[@HBPowerwall]

That would be next level safe - just don't know to implement it properly and make it look professional

[@DIYwithBatteries]

Ohooooo 😃🤟🔥🔥🔥 love the container 💥💣BooooM💣💥

[@HBPowerwall]

Better not go boom!

[@terok85]

I would add Gyproc sheet inside the cabinet to make it super fireproof (there si fireproof Gyproc sheets available). It would add weight but it would be safe. Also adding fan holes for cooling + spring loaded gyproc sheets on there so IF fire breaks it there would be i.e. plastic parts holding fan hole doors open but closes down if fire warms things too much.

[@HBPowerwall]

2mm steal has to be enough, I think it's already over kill.

[@terok85]

@@HBPowerwall on my reasearch I have learnt that if fire breaks out it is hard to put down of not impossible (in Finland firefighters plan to submerge bruning evs in water containers) so if that is true, the fire might break out. After all it is not "normal" fire.. it can be extremely hot. But 2mm steel is probably enonugh.. I will propably in future over engineer my cabinet to have rockwool + fireproof gyproc plaster sheet. But nice vid.. fun and intersting to watch. 👍🏻😎

[@BobHannent]

Intumescent strips on the doors could create an air seal in the event of a fire. I would skip the electrical box and bolt din rail to the inside. Possibly even to the inside of the door and then dress the cables with a drop loop so they move freely with the door opening and closing. Oh and how about a safety cut off switch on the front or side.

[@HBPowerwall]

that would create a bomb, want the fire to slow down. Two fans will be pumping air in so won't be sealed

[@5UPRAH]

That Batrium monitor, is that all it is? Just a monitor? Does it also do balancing and other bms things? Or is it just for monitoring?

[@HBPowerwall]

It does everything! its it puts the MANAGEMENT into BMS...

[@redshift3]

You asked for safety suggestions. How about (1) a smoke and heat detector linked to a water drench fire suppression system inside the cabinet? (2) an insulation monitoring system to detect short circuit of the positive or negative to the enclosure case?

[@HBPowerwall]

Great ideas, have the heat/smoke detector with a relay that talks to my BMS then can trigger a shunt trip, you of cause hook that up to anything including a waterpump light, siren etch

[@ross123540]

Can I suggest a "Blazecut T Automatic Fire Suppression System" for the panel. Its a tube containing an extinguishing agent, the tube degrades under heating and releases it putting out the fire.

[@HBPowerwall]

That'll stop the flames now and MIGHT just MIGHT slow the thermal reaction but I don't think it'll play a big role in helping.. this many cells will create so much heat that you just gota dump 100,000L of water an hour on it till it cools. OR better yet build around this fault state (as i'm trying to do)

[@redshift3]

What's the prospective short circuit current and what is the interrupting capacity of those dinky little HRC fuses?

[@HBPowerwall]

3-5amps i tested one at (yes only one) and they are only for bms too small and you starting getting into weird readings on the BMS

[@e.t.watchman5142]

Where do you get all your batteries I'm looking to build a 20kw off grid system and yours is beautiful thanks

[@HBPowerwall]

few links in the description buddy

[@e.t.watchman5142]

@@HBPowerwall thank you very much

[@gratefultrucker7781]

What bms are you using and how many? Do you have your components listed somewhere?

[@HBPowerwall]

I use a Batrium BMS -

[@ElizabethGreene]

I'm sorry if I missed it. Is there something to insulate between the adjacent battery banks in the event something weird happens like an earthquake?

[@HBPowerwall]

Yes, housed in steel cabinet & then inside shipping container.

[@voiceoftheclan8087]

Quick question, what will you do when the Tesla and other better batteries come out, will you slowly change over as your 18650s age, also why not fit a automatic fire supresesant system in the cabinet's and how do you deal with fires in system would love to know, thank you I have already used your type of system in several of my books loved the video and hope I dont offend anyone.

[@HBPowerwall]

As long as you aren't profiting from my IP I'm not offended. Many other batteries are already out, if I came into money I'd go retail, but other wise i'll still with more effort less cash method.

[@voiceoftheclan8087]

@@HBPowerwall No i just watch science and improve their stuff, otherwise we would all have floating antigravity vehicles and live on other planets Tesla and the guy who done lithium batteries might be peed off a little but I started books like these years ago.

[@kadmow]

Very adventurous- (watched from pt2 on to pt 3...) though all those battery modules should probably have heatshrink tube around them - abrasion and short cct resistance... You asked re. safety - I know it was all a year ago....

[@HBPowerwall]

Part one was heaps better :P

[@calebdrake3544]

How much is this battery setup setting you back? want to get into solar and battery backup for my house

[@HBPowerwall]

Impossilbe to put a price on it, batteries I bartered for, spent a year of spare time testing each cell, had the cabinet donated - BUT if i had to guess with new cells perhaps $10,000 aud

[@nadsas1427]

what kind of spotwelder do you use? could you provide me a part list ? thx

[@DIYTechRepairs]

Kweld

[@nadsas1427]

@@DIYTechRepairs with the separate capacitors? or the complete kit?

[@DIYTechRepairs]

@@nadsas1427 Did you look in the video? It shows rather clearly what he is running ;)

[@HBPowerwall]

link in the top part of the video description @nadsas

[@TWM22]

www.keenlab.de/index.php/product-category/kspot-welder-kit/

[@influenist]

@hbpowerwall happy to see you are working on the safety. How about isolating the series / pack itself with vertical barrier between the packs?

[@HBPowerwall]

MANY conversations have been had about this, many ideas chewed on - end of the day it's a design fault of my mounts.

[@influenist]

@@HBPowerwall 600 micron (2ply) or 900 micron (3ply) barrier of grass reinforced FRT (make sure it is a fire resistant polymer). I assume that would work.

[@HBPowerwall]

I'll look into it !

[@RareGamerYT]

Sir one more question can match the cells with ohms for laptop batteries because I don’t have a capacity tester

[@HBPowerwall]

You could if desperate but i would call it madness, a waste of time, dangerous, doing it as safe as you possibly can is paramount.

[@joshuabackus9724]

I don't understand, how/why do you connect the positive red cable to the black negative wire?

[@HBPowerwall]

+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ 14 times = 4.2v x 14 is equal to 48v (ish) but its a 48v battery so...

[@JBFromOZ]

Do the battery packs have to sit a certain way up? Can’t see why you wouldn’t just rotate through 180 so negative top left becomes negative bottom right, saving a shit-tonne of rework..

[@HBPowerwall]

Doesn't work like that, i have a 6 zero volt cells that touch the mount & 3 cells missing so the mount can slot in.

[@JBFromOZ]

Yeah I figured there’d be a real reason, looks fantastic!

[@cannaroe1213]

I think the top hook part of the battery-holder, doesn't need to be so far out. Or rather, i know why you did that - for better leverage - but actually it would be stronger/cheaper to make a thicker hook on the bottom. So thicker sheet metal, but only an inch or two long before it goes down (less far) into the battery space. Maybe sell a tube bar brace in place of an actual battery, because if left alone for long enough, that battery will explode if not charged.

[@lachymanguy]

Cut a slot into half of the lid of the small electrical box, then the loom can come into the WM5 then you can slide the lid through the side and do up the 2 screws to hold it on

[@HBPowerwall]

Was planning on comming in from the back side of the electrical box trying to hide the wires. Also have to put in two fans in that box to aid in removing heat from inside.

[@ProgettidiKavin]

Sir, can you please explain in a video how you assemble your power Kweld supply to make it work? i bought the module and it is really confusing for me.

[@HBPowerwall]

I just followed the instructions..

[@johnreyfrancisco4373]

I wish i also have that bunch of batteries like that...

[@HBPowerwall]

Took a long time to collect this many, and it's getting harder as the community grows.

[@bigredracer7848]

177👍's up thanks again for taking us all along with you

[@HBPowerwall]

Thank you so much 👍

[@jde1780]

Will you have a vent pipe to help remove the excess hydrogen gas?

[@HBPowerwall]

Hydrogen? Isn’t that from lead acid batteries ?

[@MrFROLAC]

when you put that much effort into it, 12 hours more is nothing! looks amazing, keep it up! subd :)

[@HBPowerwall]

Thanks a ton!

[@kyokushinkenbukaishinkaj.8382]

@10:03 Be careful not to put any drinks or opened containers with liquid on the top of the box... that gap would shower your entire bank. Awesome setup !

[@HBPowerwall]

it would make it dirty and rust but that's about it for the short term.

[@Yeanah_Nahyea]

You could possibly fit some intumescent strips to the gaps if your looking to improve the fire rating - Kilargo has a range of them for fire doors.

[@HBPowerwall]

I don't think it's needed as if it shorts it's still the same power source just with out the fuse.

[@Yeanah_Nahyea]

HBPowerwall - You’ll have to forgive me, I’m a Carpenter turned Fire Tech with a specialty in doors, but I find Angry Pixie wrangling interesting - Cheers for the reply 👌👍

[@HBPowerwall]

GEESE i replyed to the wrong comment lol Ignore that.. YES I COULD do that but still need a way to exhaust air from the fans at the bottom of case. Being inside a shipping container I don't think that level of sealing will be required. Don't want to make a bomb, just contain a fire.. or at the least slow it down

[@simonyapp]

Heat sensor alarm on the top in side linked to a sounder out side or in the house. Nice job by the way! I have a lot of respect for the time you take to get things right!

[@HBPowerwall]

there will be 5-6 temp sensors inside the cabinet linked to the shunt trip to shut it all down if too hot or cold.

[@dtec30]

hmm just a thought have a rated fire extinguisher mounted on the side with the nozzle routed into the top of the enclosure ??? to spray over the batteries in the unlikely event they might go off ?

[@HBPowerwall]

One of those ball things lol NOOOO BUT that's not at all a crazy idea.. Just don't know how to implement it neatly

[@dtec30]

@@HBPowerwall no not the ball just regular dry foam squirty squirty

[@dtec30]

bolt it to the side mounted with the handle and pin facing you as you approach the cabinet ie so you can quickly pull the pin and squeeze the trigger (remember if shtf you may be in a panic so you need it to be as simple and straight forward as possible)

[@HBPowerwall]

I think that would be better used in the shipping container.. Might slow the spread but wouldn't stop a lithium fire. Needs water and LOTS of it too slow the thermal reaction.

[@dtec30]

@@HBPowerwall lol top mounted water tank then

[@david667766]

How often do you run this 14kwh wall down, is this enough power for your use?

[@HBPowerwall]

I discharge my main house battery that is 40kwh to under half SOC every night. This one is 25kwh and hasn't been cycled yet

[@david667766]

How many watt panels do you have to support 20kwh of usage, manage to stay on top of it ok? Thanks for your work you’ve done learnt a lot and starting to setup my own system based similar to yours

[@HBPowerwall]

@@david667766 I have 14kw of panels

[@RareGamerYT]

Sir I want to make 50 cells charger and discharger what should I do and which modules is suitable for me thanks?

[@joshnabours9102]

It depends on what you plan to use it for. Are you using the batteries for solar, and an ebike, or something else?

[@objecttothis]

Change your ventilation so that you have inlet in one corner and outlet in the opposite corner. Having both in the bottom will create hotspots.

[@HBPowerwall]

There won't be any heat in there as the battery is over built for the intended load. But fans are connected to BMS to only turn IF there is excess heat in there for some reason

[@personalitycat9842]

could you have used some cable or wire to connect the packs without re configuring the lay out

[@HBPowerwall]

I could have but would have made a boring video 😁

[@MrLionpaws]

Definitely no need for the separate enclosure for the BMS. It seems like it would just prevent that big heat sync from getting air. Might as well leave it open, mounted as told below in the comments but without the internal box.

[@HBPowerwall]

was going for a cleaner look, i understand it won't make it any safer..

[@DamienGardner]

Maybe I’m missing something, but why couldn’t each battery ‘unit’ be simply rotated 180 degrees to get pos/neg on the correct sides? :)

[@HBPowerwall]

Just doesn't work like that on this build.. check out ep1

[@chriss160]

Peter. Don`t do this. Reversing the lower 7 banks will leave You with 2 different cell packs. Until now all Your cell packs can be interchanged. From now on this is no longer possible. Second, connecting the right hand side of the upper bank to the left side of the lower bank is no big deal. "Shorter cables"? Think again, there is much longer cables from this box to the inverter so this 50 cm cable is not going to do any harm.

[@HBPowerwall]

I don't plan on changing this design ... (insert hopes & dreams here lol) the changes have been made and i'm happy with the result

[@chriss160]

@@HBPowerwall OK My Friend :) It´s Your cell banks and Your project. Best of luck to You.

[@HBPowerwall]

it's a 48v battery, i don't think i made mention to that in the video - perhaps i could have explained it better.

[@smartazz]

Looking absolutely awesome 😎

[@HBPowerwall]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@Self.reliant]

I like the look of the electrical box it makes it look like a commercial look. One thought is in food trucks they have the over head fire suppression that automatically goes off based on temp if your looking for safety maybe add something like that

[@HBPowerwall]

no stopping a lithium fire, just control till the thermal reaction ends.

[@Maurice1151]

Love your work mate!👍👍

[@HBPowerwall]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@NaughtyGoatFarm]

Hi there. Im located in the lockyer Valley between Brisbane and Toowoomba. Where are you located in Brisbane?

[@HBPowerwall]

Southside

[@NaughtyGoatFarm]

@@HBPowerwall awesome I'm glad to find your KZbin channel. I'm keen to make my own powerwall. We have recently had 20kw solar installed and would like to use as much of our own power on site. Looking at options for importing cells as I dont have a source of second hand cells.

[@NaughtyGoatFarm]

@@HBPowerwall I don't think I will be able to collect and process enough second hand cells myself. Is it worth using something like this? aus.grandado.com/products/2-50pcs-18650-battery-4200mah-3-7v-18650-rechargeable-battery-li-ion-lithium-bateria-for-led-flashlight-torch-lithium-battery?variant=37658974224535&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzZL-BRDnARIsAPCJs71r9kkN_5dqCrw3PDrXV5_sgT1kl-qnnxsiItr8XlCoz-LVrLSnFXAaAu0pEALw_wcB

[@sorkmine]

Dont know if anyone commented on the fans yet, but a rule of thumb when it comes to theese computer style fans is that the larger they are, the more air the can move relative to the noise output. I would have gone with 140mm fans instead and this make it as effective as possible while maintaining a reasonable noise climate near the box. Edit: Yes, i know computer fans arent 48V but they are otherwise the same.

[@HBPowerwall]

i have a few 48v 10cm fans and holy shit they are like a jet lol so noisy

[@josephdecker0]

you damn programmers and your "elegant solutions". lol beautiful work!

[@tmarko5112]

Great Video as always however, don't you insulate in between your packs? The buss bars seem so close together.

[@tmarko5112]

Nevermind! I see now! My bad.

[@HBPowerwall]

they are joined anyway so doesn't matter

[@melbayer596]

Just an idea but what about putting the fans in the stationary section of the top and then they could pull cool air from bottom vents you were going to make and exhaust the hot air out the top... just a suggestion. Beautiful setup.

[@HBPowerwall]

Cool idea, but i've already drilled massive holes down the bottom when the hinges were. Also having holes in the top isn't ideal as something could drop in and onto battery.

[@wasim21k]

Did you ever finish this installation? How long it takes to charge this wall?

[@HBPowerwall]

Laws changed. Still have it but never cycled it

[@wasim21k]

@@HBPowerwall feel very sorry m8 all that effort 😢

[@HBPowerwall]

I still have it and will work fine when needed

[@brianwood5220]

Great job, looking forward to seeing the end result.

[@HBPowerwall]

You and me both!

[@footrotdog]

I'm glad you're doing this. I would have just turned the bottom batter upside down. :)

[@HBPowerwall]

Can't because then I couldn't mount it correctly. it is a design limitation.

[@Justaguy0420]

Hey man!! Love your videos brother! Thank you so much because I rely on your videos so much!! One question I’m building my first battery. Is it necessary to use fused nickel strip on both positive and negative? I only bought enough for the positive side. Have new year btw....I’m a loser because I’m stoked and excited to use a spot welder, which is what I’ll be doing all night through 2021.

[@tld8102]

What other safety elements are going to be build in? For example a lightning strike? Hail and storm damage? Fire? Extreme summer heat?

[@HBPowerwall]

inside a insulated shipping container, inside this steal box.

[@poofyx309]

I just found your channel about 30 minutes ago and i already cant wait for more of the shipping containment builds

[@HBPowerwall]

Geesh now I feel pressured! lol

[@poofyx309]

@@HBPowerwall haha don't be, just gonna prepare myself lol

[@jimjones7821]

Hear Hear ! I second this. What happens when you become a celebrity. You know you love it ;-)

[@victoryfirst2878]

What is the electrical capacity of the unit ??? KW please

[@HBPowerwall]

The battery can hold 25kwh of storage, output would be about 15kw max 5 continuous

[@victoryfirst2878]

@@HBPowerwall Thank you for the facts Sir. I needed to jog my memory.

[@whatthefunction9140]

"Thays not a box... This is a box"

[@HBPowerwall]

Hope my wife never says that too me lolz

[@miarena111]

@@HBPowerwall if she does, give me a call. i would love to have a man for once that actualy gives a shit.

[@oscarmu64]

Nice video. How did you collect all the cells, and how long time you spend on that?

[@HBPowerwall]

I got almost all the cells from one local school that was recycling the cells, took a year to collect test, build, film & edit.

[@YashwinP-yl8nj]

I love your work 👍🔥❤️...but I would recommend 1-2dc cooling fans ...FOR BETTER VENTILATION 👍🙏.... since they are Li batteries

[@HBPowerwall]

Thanks for the tip, they are already installed :)

[@YashwinP-yl8nj]

@@HBPowerwall happy to hear that 👍😍

[@HBPowerwall]

it was always planned -

[@GTrainRx7]

Couldn't you have swapped the lower battery "front" side in? Wouldn't that have swapped the terminals to the "correct" side? I am guessing I am missing something. Oh, the cutouts for the holders?

[@HBPowerwall]

Yes, needed to remove all the cell holders on one side - reconfigure where blue cells were then rebuild.. it was quite the process!

[@vijayprasad581]

What type of BMS you can use plz reply

[@HBPowerwall]

I use a www.batrium.com BMS

[@diydan6045]

I've seen these "stove top fire stop" that are mount above a stove in the hood. I wonder if they would help just in case.

[@HBPowerwall]

Never see it i'll do some googling