Heat treating 4140 Alloy Steel - The basics on hardening and tempering

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

That was a hard subject to cover. Well done fellows. Keep on keeping on.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Harold, Metallurgy is a vast subject, we only cover very tiny portion of it... There is room for more videos about it... Thanks for comment, Pierre

[@EmmaRitson]

excelent! now all we need is a furnace... always good fun and educational watching you two. thanks for another great video!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Emma, It's also a pleasure to watch you work on those little steam engines. Thanks for visiting, Pierre

[@PhilsProjects]

It's amazing what you accomplish when I'm away! Nice video Pierre

[@pierresgarage2687]

Yap...! I stop dropping my meat in the fondue dish............. lol Hope the stay is, what you and Kristin expected and more... ;) See you soon, Pierre

[@PhilsProjects]

+pierre beaudry plenty of great sights and fine cuisine

[@pierresgarage2687]

How about fondue...???

[@PhilsProjects]

+pierre beaudry nope no fondu here,

[@PhilsProjects]

+Phil's Projects heading out for a Cajun breakfast, oysters for lunch and supper is yet to be decided....I don't know why, my feet are vanishing????

[@mtslyh]

This was really well done. What this tells me is that I REALLY need a heat treating oven if I want reproducible results.

[@midgoog2]

Hey Pierre at least you had a visor on your head !!!!! The hired help didn't even bother to do that and he was as close to the "Fondue" bucket as you..... Cheers Eric

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Eric, The visor on the head isn't that much protection unless we expected the ceiling to fall, then my chances were to be a little better than Philippe's... lol Thanks for comment, Pierre

[@hernandovillamarinbuenaven7476]

@@pierresgarage2687 🤣😂👍

[@hagsmich]

Nice job, answering my questions.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Glad I could help you with your needs, thanks for leaving a comment....

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Was the face shield to protect the bald area?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Randy, Not really, I was ready for when I dropped the coupon in the fondue dish, but, as you seen, Philippe wasn't too receptive..... LOL Thanks for visit, Pierre

[@EmmaRitson]

got an oven.. need to make some shafts now.. thanks for an amazing video Guys

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Emma, I've seen your new oven, real nice treat... Maybe you'll appreciate those links, one is the main home entry to Atlas Steel in Australia, the second is a PDF from their site, in that booklet there is a treasure of informations about different alloys and how to deal with them.... For more info just explore their " Technical Library " section lots to learn from there... www.atlassteels.com.au/home.php www.atlassteels.com.au/documents/Atlas%20Engineering%20Bar%20Handbook%20rev%20Jan%202005-Oct%202011.pdf If you got questions just ask and if I can help... ;) Cheers and Enjoy, Pierre

[@ivanhoyt7757]

Great video!! What oil do you use to quench?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Canola and olive oil mix. (From the kitchen reserve when it starts to spoil... 😊) Thanks for your comment...

[@ivanhoyt7757]

Thank you!

[@Barncat01]

Now I don't know this but wouldn't the oil getting hotter with each quench yield different results for each piece?

[@pierresgarage2687]

You're right about what you say, there is a slight difference as the temperature rises, not a huge difference but it would'nt pass a severe control procedure with tight tolerences. For the purpose of this video it was'nt a problem as to prove the concept... Thanks for viewing and for your comment.... 🙂

[@sardar_gurjot]

Always wanted to do physical work, always wanted to set up an arms factory.

[@bobbartos4616]

merci Pierre. ..I found out what was going wrong...I was using 8620 and not 4140. I tried ur steps with the real 4140 28rc and I achieved 62 rc. I work at a small machine shop and we usually send out material for hardening but hundreds of pieces . when we have a few pieces only it doesn't pay....merci beaucoup Pierre! !!!!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Agree that 8620 isn't the same thing... Glad you got this working... ;) ATB, Pierre P.S. Out of curiosity, what area are you located?

[@SAKAYA22]

Very educate video. Great job bro!

[@UberMadSkills]

That's a proper garage.

[@pierresgarage2687]

The problem is to keep it clean and organized..... lol

[@intjonmiller]

This is great. I have a lot of chromoly steel automotive parts that I want to turn into tool holders and such. I thought that the hardening process would be more complicated than O1 and others I've done. I guess it's pretty comparable. Thanks!!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Jon, You'll need to find manufacturer's charts as close as possible to what material you got, also make some tests in order to establish how the batch you have behaves, then, everything should be all right... Thanks for your input and for comment, Pierre

[@bobbartos4616]

thanks Pierre. ..I'm trying a piece of 4140 2 3/8 od 1/8 thick......before I put in the oven it was 20rc....when took it out it came to 15rc...so I'm trying another piece....for 35 minutes.....

[@pierresgarage2687]

At first, make sure you really get the required temp around 1570 or so, you may need to set the oven a little higher ( possible like 50 to 75 deg. more ) since it will decrease very rapidly when traveling from the oven to the quenching bath 1/8" thick is cooling very fast, don't hold too long or the part will decarburize and/or loose/transform some of its alloying elements, keep in the oven only the minimal time to get to temp. On the hardening part, you should be able to get something over 50 something RC and more up to possibly 55 to 58 RC... Tempering shouldn't be very long also since the wall is very thin by heat treating standards. You'll surely need a couple of test coupons to really get where you need to go...

[@horkinyorkin]

great video, love your stuff!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, thanks for viewing and for comment, Pierre

[@John-un3lj]

Can you temper the 4140 piece without quenching it? If I for example wanted a hardness of 30 HRC - could I go about it by roasting it at lets say 700C for like half an hour and letting it air cool?

[@pierresgarage2687]

You won't be able to harden 4140 alloy if you don't heat it above 850C, you need to get above the molecular transformation in order to be able to quench it and retain the hardened state, then you need to temper in order to reduce the brittleness, too brittle material is unusable due to the fact that it may shatter like a piece of glass. Here is a link to Atlas steel supplier, they give you what you the basics needed in order to heat treat your material: www.atlassteels.com.au/documents/Atlas4140.pdf Thanks for viewing, Pierre

[@bstanga]

good info here, were all the "soak" times the same?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Brian, You get better details on the manufacturers charts, but, as a general rule you can consider 15 minutes per quarter inch thickness to be quite common. You have to leave time to the cristaline structure to the right configuration and stabilize... Thanks for visit, Pierre

[@macsmuzzlebrakes9063]

A lot of the stuff I've machined, has been `scrapped 4140 (s-cams, and truck axles,like from Kenworth Bed Trucks), and they were broken parts. Trying to cut them on the lathe, near the broken parts, I've had carbide bits explode. If I had your equipment , I could find out. Good video, though, as I work a lot in 4140 (store bought too!), and make parts that need to be strong! Merci!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, 4140 is a nice material to work with, it's solid and easily workable unless it's really hardened over 45 or more Rockwell C, then you need the better carbide or anneal it in order to machine it... Thanks for viewing and for comment, Pierre

[@markspc1]

Well done guys.

[@mtrltoolman]

Hi Pierre. How to heat treat aluminum after gas welding?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, aluminium is a very difficult material to treat, first the alloiy is critical, second the treatment temperature is often very close from melting temp, Aluminium will also work harden, there is also the time involved in the hardening process where the alloy will harden with aging, sometimes within hours or days, sometimes months or years... I don't have enough experience with Aluminium treatment to really guide you precisely, but I suggest you look for the exact type of material you have and contact the manufacturer to have them give you the details like I do for my steel alloys... Sorry I couldn't help you better than this, Pierre

[@bobbartos4616]

This was the first video I watched Pierre. ...after trying to heat treat 4140...1095....I finally gave up!!!! I'm gonna bake cookies instead!!

[@bobbartos4616]

Hi Pierre...after watching many videos on heatreating knife blades it's to confusing and frustrating because I just can't harden. Maybe I can rub viagara on the blade to get it hard? Lol I called a blacksmithing company for course on heat treating knife blades..but i have to take a 2 day course for 600 bucks. Not worth it. My last and final option is going out to national tool where we send out our material for heat treating . Maybe someone there can explain and show me...if not, I will stick to heat treating my cake in the oven.

[@pierresgarage2687]

I'm much more familiar with heat treating in treatment ovens, not so much in forges... There are some videos about forging steel in coal ovens or propane operated ovens, one thing I know about this, is they get the metal quite hot in order to bring it to a temp where they're able to work it, for example if you wamt to fold and forge weld some pieces of steel you need a temp quite above 2000 deg. F, also get some borax to keep the scaling from forming between the parts. One thing about them guys, is that they do most their work by feel and eyeballing... Maybe you could try get some info from some of those guys, or start watching serious videos about forging cakes... lol

[@bobbartos4616]

I have 2 knives that I want to harden. 18 inches long 3/8 thick of 1095 spring steel. They are not forged Pierre. Most of the knives I've seen being heat treat are thin. So I know a cherry red color is required as well as the material being non magnetic before the quench. So now I have a small piece cooking and waiting for the cherry red and checking to see if it becomes non magnetic. But how long is the piece in the oven for it to be non magnetic? 1 hr? 2 hrs? 5 hrs????

[@pierresgarage2687]

Depends of a couple of factors, how hot in the oven, how big the piece, etc... With 1095 you need to reach from 1575 to 1625 deg. F before you qwench in water or oil, water will give harder results, in your case time shouldn't be more than 30 munutes when the oven reached temperature, in water you should be able to reach from 55 to 60 RC, then the blade is brittle, tempering should be around 400 deg. F you can let it there for 1 to a few hours, let cool slowly... Look at this link on page 77 for some indications, the rest of the book is also very well done on heat treatment... www.akronsteeltreating.com/docs/default-source/default-document-library/ast-book.pdf

[@pierresgarage2687]

Also look at pages 108 to 111...

[@luciusirving5926]

A lot of bolts seem to be made of chromoly and when I turn an old one into a punch, I grind after file testing and heat treat it with oil to achieve max hardness. Edge quenching will only make chromoly a bit too soft.

[@pierresgarage2687]

I'd be hard pressed to give an expert advice on what alloy is used to make all different type of fasteners, manufacturers have their secret formulas depending on what type of final product is to be made, also the cost is a major factor in determining what element will enter in an alloy. A quench in water will provide a harder result in many cases, but will also increase brittleness, this is where the tempering techniques are an important part of the process, some experimentation is required in order to achieve the desired results.

[@MrPragmaticLee]

I'm sure when the time comes I'll have a lot more questions, but for now I'm wondering how long the stock is allowed to "soak" at the hardening temp & how long at the tempering temp.

[@pierresgarage2687]

You get better details on the manufacturers charts, but, as a general rule you can consider 15 minutes per quarter inch thickness to be quite common. You have to leave time to the cristaline structure to the right configuration and stabilize... Those times are dependent of the composition of the actual alloy. Thanks for comment, Pierre

[@betzbotz]

My target is somewhere in the 50s for Rc but I don’t have a heat treatment oven for after the quenching. I do, however, have a cooking oven capable of hitting 440F. It’s not going to be precise, but would it work?

[@pierresgarage2687]

The final result for hardness will depend on mainly 2 things, the tempering temp and the alloy. Some alloys will require different temperature for the same hardness result . You need to search for the spec. sheets for any alloy you need To treat in order To get the expected hardness results. Those sheets are available at manufactures web site..... Ex. Atlas Steel, etc...

[@eddiesblacksmithingkjv9185]

As the hardening oil heats up it hardens differently.

[@pierresgarage2687]

By rising the temperature in the bath it's possible to control the brittleness of the part being treated.

[@CaptainMyCaptain33]

Read the shart? How do you anneal it? Make it soft? I have 4140 that is hard as hell and I really need to soften it down.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, you'll have to heat the steel to 850deg. C (1562 deg. F) keep it there about 15 minutes per 6 mm or quarter inch, then, let it cool slowly suggested to wrap it in rock wool for the first part then in air below 500 C ( 932 F), just avoid letting 4140 sit between 230 and 370 C (446 to 698 F) this is a problematic zone for 4140 steel... This should leave you with soft steel soft enough to be easily workable, then you'll be able to restart the hardening/temper process... Hope it helps you, just let me know how it went... Pierre

[@dennisyoung4631]

Would the harder end of 4140 (225 C) work for gears?

[@pierresgarage2687]

There are lots of alloys you can use for geard, all depends on what you need to achieve as a result, considering that small lathes will operate a long time using plastic, aluminium, zinc alloys materials. As for automotive or highly demanding applications, better alloys are required, 4140 with proper heat treatment could assurely make excellent gears, remember that the material as well as the heat treatment are capital in real demanding applications.

[@1000186ful]

What oven are using it look like its 100 wall plug in

[@pierresgarage2687]

Those ovens are meant for copper enameling artists, here in Canada they plug on a 120 volts outlet, their maximum temperature is near 2000 deg F ( 1093 deg. C ). In order to better control the final results for heat treatment of your different alloys, you'll need to add some temperature control components, here is a link where I'll show how I proceded in order to add a cheaper PID with a probe for a decent price Link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooXHk6R4bKt_fMU Enjoy...!!!

[@lnaesll]

what brand is that heat treat oven?

[@pierresgarage2687]

The only one with a name plate on it is saying " L & L industries " some that I also know are made by a co. called Schola, those are primarily made for copper enamelling purpose. this could be your start for searches...

[@jrgenlund7992]

Hi guys, after welding in new lugs in my 45 lower what is my best option? What temprature in heat-treting my lower for the best strongest result? Ps sory for my pore engelish.

[@alexc5369]

Hi Pierre! Just found your channel and enjoying your videos, wondering if you take video requests? Im wanting to make some treehouse attachment bolts, similar to the ones Nelson treehouse supplies sell, it would be awesome if you could do a how to or go over the turning process, heat treatment etc. There's a bit of a treehouse community. Thanks anyway!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Alex, Glad you enjoy the videos...! About making a video on those treehouse attachment bolts, I'm in a resting period from making new content, looking at getting back at it, but, no definite date set yet. As for making some of those hardware, it shouldn't be very difficult, I suggest you purchase some already treated 4140 material, you can buy this at wholesale suppliers, it's available in 20 feet length, avoid small quantity or hobby suppliers, your price could be around $2.00 to 2.50 per pound, all depending on the market situation at the moment. Turning this material will require a decent lathe and standard quality carbide tooling, 4140 Heat treated is around 30 to 35 RC, cold rolled steel is also available in the same maner, it's easy to cut and bore to dimensions, you may want to try your press fitting on scrap pieces before doing final pieces, start wit a fit under 0.001", to help with installing the sleeve, you better heat up the sleeve and freeze the bolt, this will allow you to just slip that sleeve on without much struggle, pressing at "room temperature" a 3 inches long sleeve with a half thousand press fit is quite a task in those sizes. Also don't hesitate when installing the hot and cold parts, you may end up with an impossible assembly to adjust if it settles out of place... Welcome to the channel and good luck with your project, just let me know if you need more info... Pierre

[@alexc5369]

@@pierresgarage2687 I appreciate that detailed reply! Will see how I go and keep in touch. Cheers

[@bobbartos4616]

Bonjour Pierre. ...1571 for 25 min.....how long to temper it?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Bob, Here is a link to Atlas steel spec sheet on 4140. www.atlassteels.com.au/documents/Atlas4140.pdf They give you the temps and time, this depends on the size of your part and what you need as a final result for hardness/toughness ratio, just be certain to avoid the “Blue Brittleness”) temperature zone characteristic to 4140. don't hesitate to ask if you need more info or get something clarified.... Cheers, Pierre

[@yasirurooj8749]

What does 41 40 alloy mean?

[@pierresgarage2687]

In this system, the numbers are meaning the main components in the alloy. Chromium-molybdenum (chromoly) steels 41xx Cr 0.50%, 0.80%, or 0.95%; Mo 0.12%, 0.20%, 0.25%, or 0.30% Same principle for aluminium, stainless steel, etc.... Just Google this or something in this range: "numbers in the alloy's name"

[@hernandovillamarinbuenaven7476]

Great video, as always Pierre!!; One question, though: I've heard from a couple metalurgists/ machinists that during the heat treating/ oil quenching process, (depending of the oil type, I'd guess...), there's actually an active process of the steel surface taking some Carbon from said oil, (maybe like in "case hardening"?), which could increase the steel part's surface hardness. Is it possible??🤔

[@hernandovillamarinbuenaven7476]

@@awashburn6944 Thank You kindly Aaron; I think you're absolutely right!!; Best Regards!!😇👍

[@pierresgarage2687]

I quite agree with you, very little effect... Thanks for your input. 👍

[@MrGarcon98]

salut les gars. je me demande combien sa coute d'electricite ce petit fourneau ? et oui jai changer de non , mon ancien cetais utube qui me lavais donner , bien interessant du fer hardening usefull in the right place for sure . bien faite les gars

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hey Denis, bel avatar avec le petit buggy rouge... Le petit four consomme environ 1300 watts au max, avec le contrôleur ça dépend de la température, comme il ne sert pas tous les jours c'est plus que raisonnable. Au plaisir, Pierre

[@MrGarcon98]

nice to have , if you want a quick steak LOL

[@pierresgarage2687]

Or instant fly dust...

[@markuscamenzind5510]

you are aware that you had 4 different quenches the oil gets hotter with each quench then you tempered in 4 different ways ( thanks to lost footage we do not no which billet was first or last ) not sure what you tried to accomplish here but my guess is you failed to get repeatable data

[@pierresgarage2687]

There are about 3 liters of oil in the bucket, the coupons are quite small, you're right that the temperature rose somehow, but not enough to make the difference very perceptible, if it gets from room temperature and rises 30 deg. F, (18 deg. C) it's not gonna be drastic, nothing like 200 deg. F (near 100 deg. C) there it's getting to be quite different... This video is more to make accessible the very basic concept of metal treatment to beginners, not to make a very scientific comparison in order to show how the wind direction will affect the process... Remember, just basic.... Thanks for your comment, Pierre

[@bcbloc02]

You guys aren't that old, it should still stay up. :-)

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Brian, There are a couple of things we'll keep obscure on videos oriented meant for general audience... lol Cheers. Pierre

[@jb-ik8sj]

what kind of oil would you recommend for4140? thanks

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, all depends on the size parts or the cooling rate you may need, I use canola or olive oil, better pre-heat to about 130F, STAY AWAY from engine oils or transmission oils, their boiling and flash points are lower and the additives aren't desirable when quenshing. There are specialized oils, but, if you do only occasional heat treat you may not want to invest in those, also depends what rate of cooling you require, there are different types of oil for fast or slow cooling... Got this link for you, it may help to clarify what you may need: www.globalspec.com/learnmore/materials_chemicals_adhesives/industrial_oils_fluids/quenching_oils_heat_treatment_fluids Also important to enter properly in the bath in order to avoid important distortions, best advice on this is symmetrical entry whenever possible... Thanks for comment, Pierre

[@jb-ik8sj]

Pierre's Garage im making a single shot .357 mag. pistol out of 7/8 round 4140. do you think that I actually need to treat something that thick and strong? it's for home defense and I may put 5 rounds through it in its life. the first 4 of course would be target practice. thanks

[@pierresgarage2687]

I'm not near a gunsmith since I never dealt with weapons, in Canada you can't touch a weapon unless you're certified and approved about a million places, police, gov, etc, etc... I'm pretty sure the barrel wouldn't blow, mainly if you purchase some already heat treated stock that would read around 28 to 32 RC, this is still easily machinable, the main issues would be the way all the parts hold together, I think that a .357 mag. is a pretty heavy load when it fires. Best advice I can supply you is to check with real gunsmith.

[@jb-ik8sj]

Pierre's Garage thanks much to you. hope you have a merry x-mas and a great new year

[@Menuki]

I’m try to make my own anvil. I’m thoroughly surprised that I could harden it in my household oven

[@pierresgarage2687]

Just to be more precise about the process, depending on the alloy, in order to harden it, you'll need to heat it above the change of state point, this point ranges from aproximately 1450deg F up to 1600 (787 to 871deg. C ) when cooling RAPIDLY th alloy will harden, it will be very hard AND also brittle, mainly unusable, in order to reduce the brittleness you'll need to temper the part, this occurs at temperatures ranging from 400 up to 1100 deg F ( 204 to 594 deg. C ) depending on the alloy and the desired results. What I'm saying is that your household oven coud only be used to do tempering operarions in the lower range of temperature required. You still need a high temperature oven or in some cases a set of torches to get the part hard enough to change the main cristaline structure required to harden it... Hope this helps you with your question... 🌈👍

[@oh8wingman]

When you dropped the second piece in the oil I was waiting for the "Tabernac" but then I realized it would be lost on the American viewers unless they were from Louisiana......lol

[@pierresgarage2687]

That resonated in my head, I was sure the microphone was gonna pick it up... lol Those big bad words are quite local to here in Province of Quebec in Canada, and, sounds like Louisiana got some former Quebec residents that showed them our most precious folklore... Cheers, Pierre

[@oh8wingman]

@@pierresgarage2687 I'm in Alberta and there are more than a few Francophone communities here so I know a little bit about the big bad word......lol Two of my favourite co-workers were from Quebec City so I used to hear it quite often. They used to come out for the summer and made a nice little business for themselves by purchasing older cars here and taking them home to sell. What cost you 500 to a 1000 dollars here would sell there for 2500 or more since we don't use salt on the roads 10 to 15 year old cars were readily available. Take Care, Norm

[@keldsor]

Hi you two ! Is this a math class or ... ? Are you doing your fondue in that oil can too ? Nice hat you got there - forgot to lower the visor ... or is it dementia ;-)) ! WHAT ... lost the video ... That Rockwell Meter needs a haircut, I think - maybe not like the man with the glasses ... ;-)) OK, no more fun ... Anyway a very interesting video ! Pierre, you say read the papers ... what papers are you talking about ?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Keld, Dementia is always present, the best way to control it is to let some out once in a while... ;) Check the web sites from the main companies, they provide specs and heat treating information. Try this: www.atlasmetals.com.au www.airo.com Buffalo Precision Products, Inc. www.secowarwick.com (Send me an email and I'll return something to you...;) Thanks for visit, Pierre

[@keldsor]

pierre beaudry Ha, ha - yeah let some out and take a beer ! About the e-mail I send you a message on your KZbin. Thx - for the links too ! I'll prepare a project for a heat treatment oven - so maybe I have some questions to your design ;-)) Do you use Skype - my call name is "keldsor" without the " ;-))

[@bobbartos4616]

Pierre. ...ville st.laurent tilly industries

[@pierresgarage2687]

Aaaaah....!!!, c'est presqu'à côté...!!! ;) Ici c'est la Rive Sud...

[@juanrivero8]

Not to criticize, but not all of us do not have ovens and/or Hardness meters. Sooo---If you harden/temper with a torch, or foundry fire or other form of heat, you will have to rely on eyeball color of the material. For instance it says in the books "to harden, heat to cherry red and quench." This is inaccurate. The temperature is much more like "boiled carrot yellow/red." Turns out that cherries nowadays are not the same variety our grandfathers ate. But the term stuck. The accepted soak time is 10 minutes per inch (25mm) of thickness. Then, the quenching bit. You can quench in water, oil, or even rendered lamb fat (some swear by it). And since you don't have a Rockwell hardness meter if you are doing this, you measure hardness by file test. Now, tempering. Consult "Tubal Cain" Workshop Practice Series, #1. If your eye is good, you can do it by watching the colors. If not, the temperature for "straw yellow" is 235C and most kitchen ovens (or a cheapie WalMart one) can hit this. So temper to straw in the cheapie. I have found that for cutting tools, straw is the ticket. Sorry for the length of this comment, but if you don't have the equipment you will have to do it by eye.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Agree with you, if you don't have much equipment, once you can master one type of alloy you could do some reliable treatment. This require experience. As an example, just be aware that some alloys will give a RC hardness of 40 at 600F, and, another type of alloy will give a 40 RC hardness at 1100F, also the properties will be very different cause of the composition of that steel. If you stick with more carbon based alloys you can trust the color tempering method better that if you use complex types of steels. Metallurgy is a complex science, with many variants, I might produce another video with more details in a near future in order to clarify some of those variables. Thanks for taking the time to comment, Pierre

[@juanrivero8]

Metallurgy is indeed complex! I usually work with mystery metal, and have to experiment. Thanks!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Experience is the key.

[@christurley391]

Is that a calibrated purple monster sitting on your Rockwell pre-load weights? Lol

[@pierresgarage2687]

This is the quality control inspector, he checks more than the hardness tester, his role is more than it looka... lol Thanks for comment, Pierre

[@bobbartos4616]

Mon s' tie.....jai une Amis! !!

[@pierresgarage2687]

You even the Quebec way of saying things... lol

[@EmmaRitson]

seems i watch this video about every 3 months.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Always great you drop by and say Hello, your little draw bar adaptor turned out to be quite a success...!!! 😎👍

[@alisunaeiap4368]

N0-5041.😁🇲🇲🇲🇾🇲🇨🙄

[@ปกาศิตรัตนเหม]

อันนี้เรียกว่าผู้รู้จริง

[@pierresgarage2687]

Real persons in a real video... 😉

[@jamesbanjomanjohnson]

sometimes it works better if you take a drink of the oil in between the dunking of the steel pieces, that check's the temperature of the oil as you go, never wipe the oil off your rag in between the dunking as this just adds more excitement to the process...

[@pierresgarage2687]

After a couple of those drinks I'd keep close to the potty, ank keep the rag to whipe my tutty after the high pressure shit shower... 😵‍💫