Heat Your Feet! How To Install A Hydronic System In Your Van

[@onemanandhisdog9]

There are so many van channels out there, but you bring interesting content in a very amusing and helpful way, fantastic work, keep it up!!

[@JockeSelin]

Thanks! Very helpful. Hydronic heating seems a bit less like voodoo now! 😁👍🏻

[@nils2698]

I love the idea of a hydronic system in a van! My 2 cents though: Please consider re-routing the exhaust pipe to the side of the van so the fumes won't get trapped below and start to rise up into the inside where you are sleeping. This can be very dangerous!

[@dogcatmanvan]

We can relocate it no problem!

[@V4NLIFE_CANADA]

they way he mounted it is perfectly fine. enough air circulating there

[@vikingvan7864]

@@V4NLIFE_CANADA where does the air circulation come from? The van isn't moving most of the time when you are running your house heating. Exhaust should be to the outside of the footprint of the van. Those are deadly gases.

[@V4NLIFE_CANADA]

@@vikingvan7864 nope

[@b.s.adventures9421]

Maybe you did, and I didn’t see it. But, Jack stands sir. Use jack stands. Never trust your life to a tiny Oring inside a jack holding up the thousands of pounds of your van.

[@muvybuf1]

Consider putting some sort of bug and debris filter on the end of the intake and exhaust of the furnace. I used stainless steel washing machine lint filter for the intake and the exhaust came with one. It would probably be "bad" to get something crawling or sucked into the furnace. I really enjoyed watching your installation. You do a great job.

[@dogcatmanvan]

I was a bit concerned that the intake didn't come with anything. Steel lint filter sounds like a good idea

[@bambambundy6]

I crammed some steel wool into it.

[@peterlamere1982]

Florida in the winter is a nice way to stay warm in the winter.🤔🤓

[@theonlywoody2shoes]

As you have a twin line water feed, why did you need the three way valves for the floor bypass? I agree if you have a single line system you would need this, but with a twin line system all you need is a single on/off valve to shut the floor loop off in summer, especially since your bypass leaves liquid in the floor loop so really no benefit with the complex bypass setup. It may even cause issues as this will allow hot water to flow via the least resistance path through the bypass valves back to the heater causing this to regulate (reduce output) or even maybe shutdown. Sorry if I’ve missed something here, but I’ve fitted a few of these Webasto style heaters on several vans.

[@dogcatmanvan]

You’re probably write. We’ve received a few comments suggesting the same thing. This was our first go at a hydronic system so I figured a bypass is what we needed, but I can see how a simple shut off valve would do the same trick. Wouldn’t the fluid still sit within the heated floor loop though? Or would the pump pull it out once the heated floor section is cut off?

[@theonlywoody2shoes]

The glycol fluid will “sit” in the floor loop, but this really isn’t any different to the fluid sat in the header tank; it doesn’t “go off” or anything just sat there. Think of it like an electrical circuit with a switch disconnecting either the positive or negative connection to the battery - nothing flows until you turn the switch/valve on (I guess you could say that in an electrical circuit the power is just sat there, waiting to flow once the switch is turned on too). The pump won’t suck the fluid out of the floor loop, as there is no pressure created, the fluid will just circulate via the plate heater for your hot water and the air heater matrix instead - that’s the great benefit of using a twin feed/return design as you have. Those circulating water pumps don’t make a lot of pressure either, as they are a different design to the pump you have for a faucet on a sink. They were originally designed for use as engine pre-heaters in cars/vans/trucks, so the electric pump circulates the engine coolant fluid when the heater is running, but allows the coolant to flow through it when the heater is off but the engine (and its coolant pump) is running. I hope this helps you understand things a little better.

[@TheEthanification]

Great video, guys! The drawn visuals are amazing and must have taken forever so hats off to you for that! Looking forward to more!

[@ErikSjaastad]

By far one of the craziest build videos I've ever seen. You two are so hardcore!! I love the sound effects so much, they always make me smile :)

[@dogcatmanvan]

I'm glad you appreciate the sfx haha they take me some time!

[@michaelrees5190]

By not returning liquid back into the expansion tank your liquid is not cooled in the reservoir, so it stays it retains its heat as it circulates. Maybe.

[@phoenixgirl70]

So much detail, I can’t imagine the time drilling, drinking diesel, setting up shots, editing…you two are killing it and without killing each other (different views/styles of working on projects. I gotta say I’m more a Julie type of worker haha.) And happy 31K! But in fear of permanently discolouring Bens teeth you’ll celebrate in 5 or 10 k intervals haha. Well Ben, you’re a lucky man to have extra heat sources, an intelligent beautiful partner and her sweet pupper and not just Rocky. Rocky may take some time adjusting (lots of changes) so extra pets and kisses to him. It is V Day after all ❤️. So excited for what’s to come on DCMV!

[@denisecafferky2248]

Alot of work. Well done guys 👍

[@RB-yw9xv]

Hi its Jeffery the man in a tent on the street in Blackpool please think of your safety for bouth of you then your home if your inshorens can find a way to not pay you out thay will and your video is showing how you did the build please be healthy happy and lucky

[@JonasMarcinko]

I did a hydronic floor in a cargo camper build and found the same thing. It just didnt heat up that much. I've come to the idea that the wood is too much of an insulator and ill probably take the wood out and put a thin layer of cement. nice video guys!

[@poduck2]

You really should have mounted the exhaust to exit just past the outside wall of the van. The fumes can come up, and find any holes there may be in the floor, allowing CO inside the cabin. Carbon monoxide is lighter than air, and can get inside the vehicle. This is why you will see that your vehicle's exhaust exits past the edge of the vehicle, and why built in generators have an exhaust pipe that clears the wall of RVs as well. Even the exhaust exit for water heaters comes to the surface of an RV for this reason.

[@dogcatmanvan]

We did go back and route the exhaust to the outside once we started using it and we got a few people who recommended to do so. Thanks for watching!

[@a04mar]

I like how from the beginning of this series it was always “I”. Now you are saying “We”. Big step up from the video of dating while Van life……. Mannequin girlfriend.

[@NoOne-xp1pe]

RE the floor, although I don't know the best way, the problem is that you don't have enough tubing in the floor. I would lean towards trying 1/2" tubing, to slow the fluid and enhance heat transfer, and lots of it. The pump might be too light for smaller tubing and you would just increase the length. The spacing is way too far apart.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Yeah we came to that conclusion at the end of the video. We are using 1/2in tubing for the underfloor heating. They definitely need to be closer together, but I also think the flooring needs to be different. I wonder if I could've gotten away with 1/4in subfloor, but who knows if that would make much of a difference.

[@NoOne-xp1pe]

@@dogcatmanvan As nice as a warm floor is, I'm thinking all solutions lead to a lot of work, added weight (bad mileage), and slower heating. Perhaps adding more radiator type with or without fans would be more practical. A long radiator without fan could hold a good volume of heated solution, radiating heat while the pump is off. You're kind of asking the same of the floor, but you have reduced radiation, and only a hard surface will keep the heat, giving up more space and increasing the weight even more. Interesting build, good luck.

[@kaymarpee]

Not sure how far along this van is but a possible adjustment could be made at this point. You can router out grooves on top of the subfloor and place flooring directly on top of the tubing. That’s my plan- I’ve got these layers 1) furring strips with insulation on top of the van metal floor, 2) 3/4 inch ply resting on the furring strips 3) pex tubing inlaid into the top of the plywood via routered channels (the pattern of the furring strips should support the ply, I’m using 3/8s pex), 3) cali cork plank click lock flooring floating on top of that....click lock floating should reduce any problems from floor expansion changing temps

[@jacklorchdesigns]

I think the best option for floor heating is to have a separate pump loop with a temperature control valve and check valve back to the main. That way it recirculates until there’s enough heat transfer

[@joeyallcock1011]

@@dogcatmanvan if any use i would get 2 heater core/matrix & the blower & its blendor from junkyard to save money& add extra lines to spread a lower heat in more places for blown air. Floor heatin reinforced pvc hose long length/roll to do this looks like garden hose with the string in it & fittings are easy to source also isolation valves to choose where flow goes cheap for a diy enthusiast all from new + used car parts shop + plumbing/building diy shops cud even do part wall by bed/bench in ur van *smaller diameter hose heat easily in small space plus = less fluid weight.

[@ryanchristie5349]

I would always feed the coolant into a heater from the bottom and exit on top. That will push any air bubbles up out of the internal cooling channels.

[@philltwose4088]

Let’s keep those comments ticking over 🙃

[@findingpoints]

I did the same basic system with the gasoline version. It’s been 3 winter months and I absolutely love the system. I developed a thermostat to keep the van temperature at a specific temperature, which is control through my phone. If you’re interested let me know.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Yeah let us know how you've got it running from your phone!

[@richardprice5978]

i wished cars heated and cooled the floor as well with radiant but no i have a fan pointed at me 😑 or nothing at all plus it's uneven aka cold spots the the fan missed

[@findingpoints]

There’s a bit to it, but the premise is that a tiny microprocessor called a Wemos d1 mini turns on and off a relay that turns on and off the heater. That microprocessor talks to another small computer called a raspberry pi. That runs home automation software that talks to the iPhone through HomeKit. So when you turn on the heater through the iPhone, it talks to the small computer. Then the small computer talks through the vans WiFi to the microprocessor. It’s way easier than I’m making it sound. Then when the van gets to the temperature set by the iPhone, the relay turns off and the heater shuts down. When temperature cools down the reverse happens, and the heater turns back on.

[@MiracleMadkins]

Do you have a link to the one you used?

[@glenjohnson9660]

This job was grueling, great job! When your extruded aluminum comes in and you rework any piping you might want to purchase a copper manifold. It will mount on a sidewall and eliminate a lot of tubing. Just makes for a nice looking easy to follow flow.

[@lorupa]

hey, I am worried that your single pump doesn't have enough power to pump fluid around the floor loop and to everything, perhaps that's why the floor is cool. I'm planning to add a tank for hot glicol and separate pumps for each heat pulling component- floor, air heating, water heating, webasto

[@dogcatmanvan]

It seems like the fluid is getting through the lines fine since the return is still just as hot as the main line. I think it's just because our lines are so far apart and they're half inch. Maybe going with 3/4 lines spaced about 6-8 inches apart would've been a better route.

[@vikingvan7864]

The pump is pretty weak but it has worked fantastic for us so far. My pipes are as close together as the dispersion plates allowed. I was a little nervous that little pump wouldn't be enough to get the glycol through the 1/2" pipe I used but it's worked well so far.

[@JFabric500]

Just wrap the exhaust with exhaust tape. Easy peasy

[@ryanjones7681]

ALWAYS do intake at the bottom. That way it fills up evenly and there's no air pockets. If you go from the top, the water can "fall" (aided by gravity) and create dead zones where no water touches (which is HORRIBLE for your machine and will cause it to burn out much much faster) Hope you read this! Good luck

[@dogcatmanvan]

It has been read and we appreciate the info!

[@ryanjones7681]

(Push in water from the bottom) if that was confusing wording.

[@sandraadams4940]

Too complicated. Think I'll just stay in my house.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Haha come on, it's not too bad!

[@jacklorchdesigns]

Very helpful! Did you find that the 5kW heater is enough? You would need the water tank at room temperature or higher to be able to heat to 100F unless it’s really low flow. Does the shower work ok when it’s freezing temp outside?

[@dogcatmanvan]

So far it has done the trick. We aren't roasting in crazy heat, but it makes the space comfortable. The shower is also working fine as far as hot water goes since we really only take bird baths in order to conserve water.

[@chrisdaniel1339]

I agree you should have spaced the PEX in the floor closer, I also would have heated the entire floor even under cabinets, benches, that way the entire floor becomes a radiator. Just remember space heating is not just heating the air inside the van everything inside the insulated envelop is being heated, counters, cabinets, the sink, the bathroom, everything so having the underfloor PEX running under everything helps heat the entire space. There should also be heated floor under your freshwater tank and batteries/electronic for obvious reasons. draw the exact path the PEX in the floor takes on the top of your subfloor so when you are mounting cabinets or 80/20 modules you will not pierce the hydronic lines.

[@suedefringe]

Not installing one of these , but you know I watced all the commercials and leaving a not so witty comment as usual 😉 . Ps more dog 🐕 please 😆 🤣 Ps even tho most of it sounded like Charlie Browns teacher to me I swear i watched and paid attention. 🤣

[@dogcatmanvan]

Yeah this was a long complicated one, but we appreciate you taking the time to watch it through haha

[@suedefringe]

@@dogcatmanvan you know how us hard-core fans do 😉

[@phoenixgirl70]

Same here! Was intrigued by a guy with a dog (and cat! Archer and his feisty comments rip) and found the storytelling amazing and I enjoyed things I never thought I would. I’m so thrilled the channels growing! And yes, more 🐶!

[@douglaswindsor120]

The reason for the single port on the expansion tank is that the water coming back to the pump. doesn't have to go into the expansion tank since it goes in the bottom of the expansion tank the flowing would pick up air this could be the flow through tee doesn't have that problem

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks for filling us in!

[@robertlindberg815]

Hi. Cool video. I have been looking at the Van Life Tech’s floor heating. But it is pricey and i live in sweden and the VAT, shipping and customs fee busts my budget. So i found the one you installed. Does it differ much from Van Life Tech’s floor heating? There’s a huge price difference, why? I will not be building it, I have van builders for that. They have never installed floor heating so i dont know if VLT’s is easier? What are your thoughts? I am also interested in VLT’s upcoming recirculating shower, so maybe it would be a good idea to have the floor heating be the same brand.

[@dogcatmanvan]

It looks like all of the components are the same as our system, but your also purchasing an entire pre-built heated subfloor. We had to put ours together with pex. Theirs come pre-built to heat the entire floor of your vehicle. Not just the areas you choose.

[@Seqhael]

You know what is shocking to me, is that while your DIY hydronic floor works as well as you'd hope a hydronic system to work, you couldn't ask for more at that price point with a *new* heater. But there are outfits out there like Vanlife tech charging $15,000USD for their DIY kit - essentially the exact same thing as yours, with the only difference being maybe some solenoid valves and a fancy controller, can you believe that? I don't know what your total came to, but at Vanlife Tech price point, it's almost robbery. Considering you can pickup refurbished Eberspacher and Webasto diesel heaters for a couple of hundred bucks, you could make your own WiFi compatible controller with some basic WeMos arduino knowledge, in my opinion you could make your own DIY Vanlife tech system basically identical for probably $2000 at most. I think it's time to bring some competition their way, $15k, talk about having the market by the balls... great job on your build!! Ps. the squeaking noises with the dog are at least 60% of the reason I tune in hahah

[@lhackinen3684]

Built Hydronic floor , using 1/2 inch pex , routered into 2" XPS with aluminum dissipators sandwiched in place. The length of tubing is critical. 3/8 can actually deliver enough heat (and bends easier ) You need to be able to dissipate thru the floor. Your test with the Aluminum fin up failed because it is such a short tubing and not in direct contact with wood floor , ( needs to be stapled but that is impossible with pipe already in place.) 100 feet of tubing is closer to what is required for X,000 BTU heat transfer. (to get the effects you were expecting.

[@bchurchill3551]

Comments help the KZbin’s algorithm, right?

[@JohnDoe_toetag]

Nothing special about the expansion tank. Any automobile expansion tank should work. Go tour a scrap yard and pick out a small one. Some real insulation under your floor tubing would help a lot.

[@claudiomartin2204]

The point of the heating floor, is that is working when loosing the temperature, so you never should put insolation, between the tubes and your floor, you always have to put it under, to avoid lost this temperature from the bottom. The floor should lose the temperature from the top, and the temperature that the floor lose, is the way it works to warm the air. For that you need a surface with a high thermal inertia, so it take a lot of time to warm the floor, but after that it will be really efficient, because you will need a small amount of energy to heat the area. This type of heating is not the best for vans, because you are switching on and off all the time the heating. the heating floor in a house, normally have a first period that it need a lot of energy to warm the floor, but after that just a small amount and also it takes 1 or 2 days to have the proper temperature at home

[@ninja1antelope]

I’ve had the same horrible plumbing supply experience with Amazon . I mean every piece was poo…. 😡 Sorry you had the same- I did post on Amazon the products were…. Cr ap.

[@guidolyons4912]

I just added a floor heat loop to my Espar D5WS. Bypass with just three standard ball ball valves. One ball valve on each leg going to the floor heat loop. One ball valve in the center of the bypass. To add the floor heat to the glycol loop, open both ball valves and close the third ball valve in the center. This will allow glycol to flow through the floor loop. To bypass the floor loop, close both vlaves going to the floor loop and open the third valve in the center of the bypass. Easy peasy, commonly available valves from any hardware store.

[@andrer.mallet2410]

You guys are awesome, I love the videos but....that's got to be the most inefficient in-floor heating setups I have ever seen lol.

[@jeffsteinmetz7188]

Great video! I think it is highly recommended you exhaust vent out the from under the van. It appeared in the video you are venting the exhaust under the van. You don’t want the fumes creeping in every nook and weeping hole under your van. I went with Rixen's Hydronic heater and after seeing your video I am glad I did, so what you talked about at the end is not an issue with Rixen's. Hooking up all the wire was dramaticly simplified and you don't need to do near as much work to integrate all the wireing end points. The support you get from Rixen’s is superb! Really more than half the time you get Jim Rixen on the phone and he is happy to help the DIY folk. I actually think he likes being on the front lines so he can hear the issues first hand. I wish I had decided on the Rixen's system before I completed my flooring. No in floor heat for me.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks for the heads up!

[@forrestbro]

Great tutorial. I'm in the daydreaming/planning phase of a future van build and would like to do something similar for my heating so definitely saving this for future reference.

[@richardprice5978]

i wished average sub-120k usd luxurious passenger car's did it to

[@vikingvan7864]

I put one of these in my van and thought I might regret putting in the heated floors. The Kalori blower that comes with this system is SOOO loud I scrapped it and put a Chinese diesel heater under the passenger seat floor which has worked incredibly well and from the back of the van I can barely hear the heater even on high. I went skiing yesterday and camped there the night before. Temperature was 8 degrees F. We actually didn't have the heat on all night and woke up to a pretty cold van. I turned on the diesel heater and it just could not seem to warm up the van comfortably. When I turned on the floor heat the van heated up quickly. So long story short I would definitely recommend the floor heat because the floors get really cold and just having an air heater might not be enough. The chinese diesel heaters are cheap so would recommend going that way instead of the Kalori blower.

[@richardprice5978]

@@vikingvan7864 on JC-6 2005 model year the floors in the winter time can be miserable despite the tail pipes getting way hot and in the summertime leaking a lot of heat in to the cabin that and the fire wall but in the winter ❄it does help as the wall keeps the windchill at bay and a lot of the air box heating leaks out from the cold bottom of the jeep and with the engine heat and a extra pump or thermo-sifin i wish it did floor heating and air conditioning from the dealership from day 1

[@richardprice5978]

@@vikingvan7864 some luxury cars are more insulated for sound and temperature controlles but still the floor is a weak spot as the pavement or wind that goes under it soaks up the temperature delta more than say the roof or F-windscreen glass so instead of a 1 or 2 hours of the car staying the same comfy ish temperature as the engine block/exhaust ect. does store some heat in the winter and can be extended for another 6 ish hours with little parts or complexity or weight added 😉 aka come out of work/shopping and the car is already warm ish with no extra fuel used or a very little extra energy as it's possible to used a extra part to extend it indefinitely as long as there power to do so in side of the cabin ie a C-class or lincon or caddy devill or 300-C or model S or X Tesla's ect.

[@jiexilaoshi]

Great job explaining the hydronic system, long term I think you will be glad you did it. Congrats on 30k subscribers, I wish the best for you guys!

[@pangeyi]

This is such an amazing video. Both of you did a good job on explaining the details. Can’t wait to see more build video from DCMV!!!

[@douglaswindsor120]

The fuel intake hose should have a screen on the bottom and should be up at the 1/4 of the tank off the bottom of the tank didn't see you do either the reason you put the intake at the 1/4 is so you never run the tank out of fuel leaving you unable to drive until you get more fuel

[@dogcatmanvan]

The hose doesn't have a screen, but the line is definitely over a 1/4 off the bottom of the tank in order to not run myself out of fuel.

[@ZiLg0]

Great information, thanks! Love the production value in this video!!

[@philltwose4088]

Funny you mention those plates, I thought when you fitted them they were upside down 🙃, I would also consider the thermal conductivity of plywood is not optimal for heated floors so is probably not helping

[@dogcatmanvan]

Any suggestion on an alternative conductive flooring for a van?

[@harleyrobertson6746]

Dude, I think these videos of a second van build are way better because we can learn from what you've learnt and so we can make better van builds 👌👍

[@dogcatmanvan]

Yeah I was a bit concerned with how long the videos are getting, but we wanted to provide everyone with a comprehensive guide on how it went for us since we couldn't really find a single video with everything in it while we were doing our install. Hopefully it helps out!

[@harleyrobertson6746]

@@dogcatmanvan Dude, I'll admit when I saw the length of the vid I said to myself that I won't have time to watch it, busy day and all, but man the longer the better. I see it all the time with these short videos and you're kinda left hanging, so longer videos 👍👌

[@christoffer1973]

So interesting video. I never seen that product. Great video! But I would have a bigger distance from exhaust and fuel line.

[@philltwose4088]

Tick, Tick, Tick ✅

[@justinmcneely263]

Just like a heater core in your vehicle it come in the bottom and out the top

[@justinmcneely263]

That maintains all the air goes out the top

I've heard you need to use submersible fuel lines in the tank. Usual fuel lines would dereriorate with a time. Maybe not an issue with diesel or you used correct hose but worth to check. Great video! 🙂

[@thegarageetc]

thanks for the info, the only thin I want to point out is that you always pump away from the expansion tank

[@Swimdeep]

Amazing. Truly. So much work. Really enjoying the info despite having an SUV. Good going.🌀🌿

[@justdoinglife412]

I don’t know if anybody’s answered your question about the expansion tank but it does just what the name says it gives the water in the system a place to expand and contract when it heats and cools, great video by the way

[@kennethcroll6972]

hello, please dont use electrical tape in the loose wires, over time it will come loose. Use glue lined heat shrink, and rap the wires with exterior tesa tape

[@dogcatmanvan]

Our loose wires were eventually placed within their respective housings or sealed off with wire caps

[@kennethcroll6972]

@@dogcatmanvan nice, loose wire can cause a fire

[@philltwose4088]

Just when you thought it was safe!

[@jfxl1977]

Great video! I've been enjoying the new van build. Thanks for the detailed explanations. Congrats on hitting 30k subscribers. I look forward to seeing that number continue to climb!

[@philltwose4088]

I’m back!!

[@tomhartridge1]

Thought about the underfloor bypass. I'm not sure it's needed as you've gone for the two pipe method... the risk is that the hot water will take the "easy" route through the bypass and completely ignore the heater and blower. Normally for UK central heating anyway. you have to balance the system so no one thing gets too much water. and you just close the valve when it's no longer needed.

[@dogcatmanvan]

We will be reworking the system to eliminate the bypass for a shut off.

[@careykuhn9174]

The underfloor water has no where to go. They way they did it the first time will be fine.

[@mariehuff5763]

Julie voice is so smoothing. Swear she need her own channel just telling stories. I bet she be really good at it.

[@phoenixgirl70]

I noticed that too! This episode really made it stand out.

[@TheJustneon]

Thank you for such a detailed video! I wonder how is the hydronic system running right now? Also, I know that you can use a water/water heat exchanger to heat up shower water. The questions is, how do you store the hot water for shower? If you store hot water in a separate tank, does it mean that you have to always heat the floor to heat up shower water? Even in summer time? Thx!

[@dogcatmanvan]

The hot water is instant. Once the heat exchanger is warmed up you can pump water through it and it heats up instantly for you to use. We placed a shut off valve for the heated floor system so that it doesn't run during the hotter months when we need hot water.

[@TheJustneon]

@@dogcatmanvan Thank you so much for answering. It is quite helpful.

[@cdshobak]

Very nice to see you have made the hydronic system working. I did the hydronic system in my sprinter 4x4 with single loop system. Floor does not get hot but it is warm enough to walk on it with bare foot when out side Temp is below 20 degrees. Do you have any issues with not controlling the fan speed. I can not control fan speed on my setup. other than that heater works great.

[@dogcatmanvan]

We've been able to control the fan speed thus far. It's a bit delayed when switching between speeds, but it works fine.

[@cloneboy18]

I'm not building my van right now, or planning on putting a glycol system in it, I just like the format of your videos so I watch them all. lol (algorithm comment)

[@suedefringe]

Same , same !

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks Olin!

[@phoenixgirl70]

Same Olin and so excited for their fun adventures when they’re finished.

[@richardvalitalo3670]

Holy moly! You talked me out of this idea, wow! Hotel rooms sound ok now haha.Just to make the video is crazy, respect to you both.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks for checking it out. It was a lot of work!

[@HueNarcisWorld]

this is a great video, very detailed, thanks !

[@scottnicholetwobysprinter8756]

Well done. Thank you for all the video/production and van work you are sharing. Way to provide a way for people to install diesel heaters. One of the most satisfying van mods that can be accomplished.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Of course! Thanks for watching. Hopefully it helps some folks out on their future builds!

[@christoffer1973]

But exhaust will be warm! Feel them separate ,

[@waynec2962]

Cute video 📹! Cute dog🐕! Cute Couple 💑 Great work guys!

[@Mike2trys]

have no intention of ever doing anything like this... still watched entire video, lol

[@richardross5219]

Is it necessary to cool the coolant before it goes through the floor? Rixen recommends a mixing valve and additional pump. People say you'll get hot stops and it'll be too HOT if you don't cool it first. What's your experience?

[@dogcatmanvan]

There are a few warm spots, but nothing hot enough to cause an issue or need for a mixing valve. We shall see if that changes over time.

[@handduggraverdronline]

Van vibrate but cars and trucks don't at all

[@AW-Services]

Where is the invisible inline fuel filter ?? Definitely need a heat shield on the exhaust

[@dogcatmanvan]

We contacted the manufacturer and they said an inline fuel filter wouldn't be necessary so we kept it invisible.

[@AW-Services]

@@dogcatmanvan it sounds like the manufacturer knows nothing about diesel tank sediment and grit particles. All fuel connections need an inline filter or you'll clog the burner jets and carbonise the combustion chamber quicker than normal

[@CampervanMan]

Great video. All the detail anyone needs. Can I ask if you were tempted to plumb into the van coolant system and add a hot water storage tank (calorifier)?

[@dogcatmanvan]

No, we didn't plan on doing that for this build. Maybe on a future build we will integrate the vans coolant system.

[@JFabric500]

For the tank I would just look at a car windshield wiper tank from a pick and pull. You can toss a barbed fitting on it for $5 from McMAster Carr

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@DaveGme]

Great content. New sub. Seams like pumping the fluid back into the tank would be a place where it would lose heat unnecessarily. I blow stuff up for a living, so that’s probably not right. Just a guess.

[@NoOne-xp1pe]

I knew it. Goofy dog. Did several odd things. I had been thinking from the beginning that if he could read, he must have been a cat in a past life. Then he goes and corrects you. I've never been with a dog that cared one bit about what I was reading, but cats want to read everything I'm reading. I guess they think they are smart or something.

[@jhonnygringo1514]

Awesome job! best install video and super entertaining as well.

[@coreyrecord1430]

I have a 1990 ford e150 that I'm converting. Since my floor plan is a bit smaller; will the surface be a bit warmer due to shorter distance?

[@granitfog]

I have to wonder, how many joints got you through the process. (or was it beer, schnapps, wine...)? Great video.

[@aidenjohns8248]

Header tank wold be better around head height, in an over head cupboard also remember also temperature guns wont take accurate temperature reading off a shiny surface.. but looking good..

[@philltwose4088]

Sip, Sip, Sip, ☕️

[@jarretrhyner5922]

Fantastic Video. This video is super helpful, as I'm currently working through the same project. Kudos!

[@skitravelerz5847]

Hey guys! Are you functional with the heating? We purchased from Heatso the espar D5S, the Kalori EVO1. It was a kit, we just bought that as it was listed. Buyers remorse. The Kalori doesn't get very hot, the D5S only runs for 3 programs for 120 minutes each. Not thermostatically. The Kalori only raises the temp 10 degrees over outside and it is so loud you can't have a conversation. Heatso not helping at all. 3000$. 😿 Hope anyone reading this will save themselves the grief. Not Heatso, Not a D5S. Maybe we have a bad Kalori. For sure the D5S is a disaster. If you are cold weather camping, thermo control is essential. Hope to hear yours works perfectly, and maybe then we can get a warranty replacement.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Yes we've been utilizing our heating system this winter. There is an override setting that you can find within the instructions that will allow you to set your heater to run for as long as you need. We will do our best to include a video showing our thermostat hookup for the system before we are completely done with the build serious.

[@skitravelerz5847]

@@dogcatmanvan Thank you so much. Grateful. Can't make out how to set the EASYSTART REMOTE+ to infinite. If you have a different controller running the same D5S that would be so helpful to know. No answers from Eberspahcer or Heatso as to programming or a substitute.

[@travellingDAS]

Manufacturers could learn a LOT from this video. If this is the standard someone working stuff out for themselves comes up with first time out shame on them and their marketing budgets! As someone who’s played around with electrickery (and teaching) in all sorts of places for over 30 years I wish I knew as much when I first started learning. Bravo!

[@277kne]

This reminds me of a KZbinr Chris Penn who had this system in his bus. I think his channel is Chris Travels, but not sure. He and his friend Jim has videos on them building the in floor heat system with a bypass.

[@matt82228]

One of the best video showing how the hydronic works!! Compare to the airtronic heaters, how effective and efficient is the hydronics in heating up the cabin through the Kalori?

[@dogcatmanvan]

I'm not sure yet. Once we get to take the van out and stay in it during a few cold days and nights we will make a full review of the system and how it heats.

[@rmontena4583]

You are so smart! :) Really well done. Especially the diagrams! Best regards. Rich

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks Rich!

[@eksine]

They make a Chinese knockoff of this exact diesel water heater. It costs $350 I think off fleabay, I was wondering where they copied the design, this must be it.

[@randalbloomquist7812]

I've been thinking about doing this for a while now. Thanks for the heads up!

[@coleblezard6628]

Y’all hilarious

[@handduggraverdronline]

The time and Money for tools you could have just had someone do it

[@dogcatmanvan]

But then we wouldn't have learned anything. Plus I had the majority of the tools and this unit was sent to us from Heatso so our overall costs weren't very significant.

[@sandygraham7943]

What is the power draw off your batterys for the floor system ?

[@dogcatmanvan]

We have the D5S system and it was produced before D5E and has a draw 120watt (for about 7-8 seconds when starting), then 12watt on low, 37watt on mid and 40watt on high.

[@gregvittore5004]

Nice! I don’t have the same stuff, but my air heater does have a valve on it to make it hot or ”cold”. On my heater in outputs do matter. I didn”t see any valves on yours so you should nit care about direction. My floor lines runs roughly 20 cm apart from each other. Even after a whole night running you still feel colder areas in between. Lack of concrete😅 I insulated all my pipes as they do heat up quite a bit. And try not tu build to much stuff around as you always want to check your system!!!had 2 month great than started leaking...you never know on this diy systems. Btw, i only use the fan to warm up quickly,than it only maintain heat via the floor, really nice. Had this weekend -3C out and staedy 15C inside. Wish you both all the best. Cheers

[@dogcatmanvan]

Thanks for sharing the real world experience you've had with your system. I'm curious to see how ours pans out once we're up and running!

[@gregvittore5004]

@@dogcatmanvan thanks for the entertainment! ❤️👌👍

[@TimHayward]

I would warn against tying into the existing high pressure fuel line. I would also run the wires, then build the harness so you can get wires through smaller holes. Looks cool.

[@pdx650]

DCMV, At the 26:00 mark, you mention you don't know why you should have only one pipe going to the expansion tank on a 'two-pipe' system. I think I know why. The word 'expansion tank' is part of my clue. As the fluid warms up, the fluid 'expands' into the tank rather than using the tank as a place for warmed fluid to cool down inside of if two pipes were sent to the tank. The tank could be another place for heat loss to occur inside of if you route the fluid to go through it rather than just pass by it. Hope that helps.

[@doughurst5787]

My first heated floor I figured out very fast that heat does not pass through wood very easily. The closer the tubing is the better , but the surface cools faster than the heat passes through.

[@dogcatmanvan]

Do you ever figure out an alternative flooring that is a better heat transfer?

[@brutusmaximus5380]

@@dogcatmanvan If you are going for heat conduction through solids, I suggest copper foil adhered to the underside of your wooden top floor. However, you would have better results with ceramic tile with a copper foil underside. Copper is expensive. Aluminum may be cheaper and it doesn't corrode in a humid cabin but since it's near the top most layer, condensate from the cold metal floor would be negligible. Most of your heat loss is coming from your air matrix and the heat exchanger since they are the 1st in line and that's why the rear of your van is much colder. I'm going by Bernoulli's' principles of fluid dynamics here and looking at your diagram, the pass through connection from the heater to the heat exchanger looks like it's going to suck in the colder fluid from your reservoir, through the heat exchanger and mix it in with the heated fluid coming out of your heater but that's depends on the pressure difference between the heater and the outlet of your heat exchanger as well as the amount of flow resistance created by the heat exchanger. What I'm saying is that the fluid flow through the heat exchanger looks like it would be opposite of it's intended direction in the diagram. I would have connected the heat exchanger, air matrix and floor line in parallel. But it looks like that single pump has enough negative pressure to keep the flow in the proper direction.

[@maidelie]

These are seriously excellent instructional videos, also delightful.

[@Wrenchmonkey1]

The reason it's more efficient to only have the one line connected in the expansion tank is that you are not circulating the water THROUGH the tank, which would have all of the hot water going into the tank, and leading to heat loss. If the only water that enters the expansion tank is the water that 'expands' out of the system due to heat/thermal expansion (hence the term), then it doesn't expose all of that heated water to a poorly-insulated tank that will just radiate and conduct the heat away. In times when you're trying to heat the space (ie; winter) the losses probably won't matter too much since most of the heat will be lost inside the living space anyway, and just contribute to the overall effort. However, in the summer months, losing heat to the interior of the van not only hurts the efficiency of your water heating system, but also creates more work for your cooling system, causing both systems to work less efficiently. I'm surprised nobody was willing to provide an explanation.

[@johnplyler7054]

Great video! All I can say is OMG, what I am in for since I am doing a similar system.

[@cdoublejj]

watch the hole thing does the EXHAUST JUST END UNDER THE VAN!? it should it end at like just past the bumper like the engine exhaust. as far as i know. i guess some people have died for co2

[@bjbhehir]

Glad my Espar B4L M2 was really easy to install and works great at high altitude!! It's heats my van up in any temp in less than 10 minutes. That seams like way to much work for a floor that's about 15 sq.ft. but good luck!!

[@dogcatmanvan]

We liked the challenge. Thanks!

[@magician2020]

I noticed that D5E is about $1000 less that the D5S, however the D5E doesn't give any specs for the system. the D5S is 17,000 BTU heater. What is the BTU rating for the system you used for your rig?