heating zone valve problem

Description zone valve fault finding / troubleshooting and how they work.

[@MrGuido63]

Keith, You are an exceptionally good tutor. Explained this problem so well. I have had the Drayton Wiser system installed about 8 months. Pleased with it, but this cold spell the boiler& the pump started to run when heating & H/w is turned off. The Wiser guys (German branch included), has not offered me an acceptable explanation. But, this morning I played your KZbin video! Bless you 🙏 & thanks for sharing your wisdom.

[@knightdayplumbingsolutions6015]

I often pop onto KZbin for a quick brush up on techniques employed by other plumbers and this I have to say, is one of the best video's I've watched to-date. Really well explained and the dummy set up to visually see how it all works was a big plus for anyone looking to undertake this kind of work. Ten out of ten Keith. I take my hat off to you.

[@keithjackman1]

Thank you

[@grahamshillingford8229]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, you've helped to diagnose the problem I am having, very clearly explained.

[@davidhume5454]

Thank you for a clear explanation, I now know what my central heating engineer needs to do to fix my similar problem at home

[@pureblood4386]

Excellent vid, i have 2 zone heating and the down stairs has been broken for a while now and its God dam freezing, now i know what the issue is, and i have located the valve, all i need is a plumber to replace it, thank you for a great vid.

[@cland20603]

Fantastic explanation and a very well thought out method of showing exactly what should happen with the system. I now know what my problem is and, with your help, should be able to fix it. Many thanks for producing one of the best videos I've seen on KZbin.

[@19alpesh09]

I give you 1000 out of 100 very well explained. I was stuck this area

[@lionelblak]

Thanks for a very clear explanation. I've been looking for something to explain this for a while. If I hadn't already booked a heating engineer because of my boiler staying on all the time (even when the room stat is down and the programmer is in the Off position) I would have attempted to replace the zone valve myself as I now understand that the microswitch is probably to blame.

[@neildg7242]

Thankyou. That just saved me a lot of money. Brilliantly clear explanation.

[@tony123456789fuck]

Top man practically done best so far I watched

[@train4905]

A most exellent video sir,thanku

[@Sam-iy3cw]

Thank you very much, this solved my problem!

[@ChuckNorris-bf5cj]

BRAVO!!!! Thank you so much for such an easy explanation. This video should have a million views!

[@keithjackman1]

Thank you your too kind

[@ChuckNorris-bf5cj]

@@keithjackman1 No I'm not :) I had a guy servicing my boiler not that long ago and after he was done with it I pointed out the constant power ON issue to him. He had no clue what's causing this so he rang the other guy (electritian) but he had no clue either. After searching the internet I came across some forum which led me to believe that the PCB has developed some fault so I bought a replacement one. It turned out tjat the PCB had nothing to do with this as the boiler continued to stay ON. Luckily it was a second hand PCB so it didn't cost me too much. And now that I came across your video I'm 99.99789473% certain what's causing this. And I will see for sure this weekend. One thing I'm 100% sure of is that these so called plumbers-electricians hate you for this video :) So it's not me but you who's too kind for sharing your knowledge and putting the effort to build the rig so we can ACTUALLY SEE what's going on. So thank you again and best of luck with everything you get your hands and heart on!

[@kevinbeck6785]

Cheers keith had to watch a couple of times but video is very helpful

[@patrickmulholland1840]

EXCELLENT THANKYOU VERY MUCH

[@subevo35]

Great .got my head around it now.as others have said don't use the neon screwdriver it's frowned upon by electricians.

[@metaldog7128]

Great stuff 👍

[@badaburner]

You are the best

[@johnal4560]

Hi trying to install new relief valve and the pipe that comes out of boiler got some rust is that gonna be ok to add an extension pipe and then install the relief valve to that fort the future so if i need to change the valve i just removing the valve that is installed to the extension pipe just want to make sure it is not affecting pressure or anything thx

[@Cameron-ue7lu]

Hi Keith, thanks for vid. My CH diverter makes a clicking noise on start up and then goes quiet. It appears to be working fine, opening and closing etc. Any idea?

[@keithjackman1]

Hi Cameron , It may be one of the cogs slipping in the motor , it may continue to work for a while , be one day , the motor / head of the diverter will need replacing , hope this helps .

[@carlbarker922]

Hi Keith great video very informative. I have a Sunvic 3 port valve that buzzes when the heating is off and drives us mad at night. If i boost the hot water you can hear the motor either start to drive or return then i can turn off the water and all is quiet! Any ideas? I dont have a problem taking it apart if needs be.

[@keithjackman1]

Hi Carl , sorry for the delay in answering your question , I thing the buzzing is the motor inside the head , but if it was me I would replace the sunvic head complete. Hope this helps .

[@nipperken]

Hi Keith, I have a drayton 3-port valve on my system, I'm wondering if you can solve the problem I'm having with it...with the central heating control turned off and just the hot water selected on the programmer, the motor drives the valve right across to the hot water only position, but after a few seconds goes back to the centre position and remains there giving a constant clicking sound. This of course allows hot water to the radiators when it shouldn't. I've removed the head to take a look and the valve is quite easily operated with my fingers, the motor seems to run ok, could it be one of the micro switches causing this problem? Your help would be much appreciated, Ken.

[@keithjackman1]

Hi ken , yes it is more than likely to be one off the micro switches , however it could be a problem with your time switch ( programmer ) , sending a false sign ??. First I would replace the drayton 3 port head . Hope this helps .

[@christianblake36]

Perfect video but what supplies power the the chipboard in the wiring centre i assume its the 3amp spur and is that from the main fuse box or is that seperate

[@tommojenko]

The spur would have a 3 pin plug coming out the back. You can just plug it into a socket.

[@garyrobertson2632]

Brilliant video, When my hot water comes on and the heating side is off the radiators heat up. I changed the Drayton ZA6 Actuator and the problem is worse as with the old Actuator it was only a few radiators ypstairs that came on, but since I bought a new Actuator all the radiators in the house are heating up - any idea what the problem could be?

[@keithjackman1]

Hi Gary , Thankyou for your comment , Did you just change the Actuator only ,and not the valve body , (following the existing wiring ) .If so I would feel that the body of the valve is the problem as the ball / valve is not shutting and is passing , unfortunately this means replacing the valve body . Hope this helps .

[@whopaimon5407]

Wonderfully explained, can you also please shed light on how to do a wiring box.

[@samualryder7188]

Arbeed Ahmed become an electrician!

[@doveronefoxtrot4417]

Is checking the orange wire for power in this way, indicative of a failed heating 2 way valve as well ?

[@keithjackman1]

Hi dover one foxtrot , in most cases yes , hope this helps .

[@mickkitcher1273]

Great vid Keith, do you do a similar exercise for the mid position valve, that would really help me?

[@keithjackman1]

Thanks Mick , yes it is a similar exercise for mid position valve , but on a mid position valve you have no permanent live to it , check out a KZbin video by john ward ref - central heating electrical wiring part 3 y plan , hope this helps ?.

[@mickkitcher1273]

Yes it did Keith thanks, made it all very clear, great video!

[@tomclose6643]

i have a honeywell zone valve that wasnt opening i checked t stat all good there. tried to put in Manual position wouldnt slide over was stuck, took cover off motor very hot to touch! pulled head off valve body assembly tried to turn stem with wrench was hard to turn would not stay in position kinda sprung back but got it open enough to get some water to that zone to warm up toe kick heater. once i got it opened a bit i hooked power back up and all it did was make real fast clicking noise any ideas?? probaly replace whole assembly? or try motor first??

[@keithjackman1]

Hi Tom Close , From what you are saying , it sound like the zone valve body is sticking , witch may have burnt out the motor off the zone valve head , So would replace the whole thing . Hope this helps .

[@tomclose6643]

@@keithjackman1 thanks for reply any idea why it would stick in valve body?? its only 6 years old would deliming type of cleaner hurt that brass valve components??

[@keithjackman1]

Hi Tom Close , a deliming type of clean should have not hurt the components , However the zone valve rubber ball which stop the valve may have become swollen / sticky , causing the valve to stick , and hard to open with the wrench .

[@wilsonchand8668]

Thankyou.Very useful and excellent explanation.I have changed the motor but yet the radiator lights up but I don,t see the motor working.Manually it works.Do you think the wires going to the motor are faulty.Can you help me or should I just change with a new one like you did in the video.Thanks

[@keithjackman1]

Thankyou for your comments , I would like to know the make of the zone valve , Also would mostly change the complete head , but check that the spindle does move freely , hope this helps

[@stevewoodward7850]

Thank you so much for a brilliant explanation, followed your tutorial and discovered it was the micro switch in the heating motorised valve that was faulty. Quick visit to Screwfix and a new unit was bought and fitted within the hour. Now the boiler light is only on when I want heating or hot water. Thanks for saving me a pot of money Keith. Quick question....I live in a big 4 bedroomed house with 22 radiators in all, what setting speed should the pump be on as it has 3 speeds. Your help, as in the video would be greatly appreciated.

[@simonstones1918]

Steve Woodward 3 I should imagine Steve!

[@stevewoodward7850]

@@simonstones1918 Cheers Simon, l previously had it on 2 but switched it to 3 and all radiators now become hotter much quicker and more evenly. Thank you for your reply/advice

[@simonstones1918]

Steve Woodward that’s a lot of radiators on one system tho, I must say! Usually 12 are suggested for one run. Glad yours is working better tho 🦠

[@adannyt]

as a keen diy man I'd love to do a set up like that with power going to it to practice with. could you shed some light on that please

[@bobuk64]

Good vid ..but please throw that neon tester away and get a proper one :)

[@gavinhoulston7910]

Screw driver formally known as the death stick 🤔 💥 throw it way and get your self a GS38 recognised voltage indicator 👍

[@geoffmatthias3992]

Keith for God's sake don't use those dam stupid neon screwdrivers get one of those non conductive light stick so much safer,or a test meter,good video.

[@keithjackman1]

Hi Geoff , Yes use a test meter now , mush safer , Thanks.