hemi 5.7 exhaust manifold bolts driver side

My repair on my 2014 Ram 1500.
Please like and subscribe to see more from me. Im not a professional please be kind.
Very diverse stuff to see and share.

[@Al-xk7wl]

Awesome video! You did a great job, explaining some of the most basic things that other videos just blow through. I was shocked to see the amount of stuff that was tucked in the fender and wheel well. that will lead to rust!

[@SWATT101]

Straight edge the manifold mating surfaces when out. I got mine pretty close to dead nuts with a belt sander and 40 grit paper!...after you do this they say you won't break a bolt again. Of course if you own a machine shop there are better ways...lol...and I reassembled with nickel anti seize and stainless hardware. Rand air drill is short in the head for tight spots. Lisle drill template is a must for very accurate drilling in lieu of welding.

[@168charger]

Thanks Brother! Fantastic vid. New manifold arrived today and MIG welder on standby. I have an air rachet, and hopefully, I can squeeze it in.

[@johnspencer7291]

love my air ratchet

[@bradbradshaw6082]

From looking at other video's this ones by far the best done overall, most people remove the dipstick tube ect to make it easier but nice to see it doesn't need to be done. I was lucky my passenger side bolt broke within the manifold itself, praying the driver side I don't have to drill into as I don't weld. Also wonder if jb weld would suffice sticking a smaller bolt to say one that's inside the block?

[@earlzach]

Jb weld may work. Just need the 24 hour bond patients. The steel bols aren't really that tight in the aluminum head.

[@silenceondort1314]

Have you straighten the contact surface of your manifold?

[@jimwebber7451]

Are those aftermarket bolts stronger than the OE's that are breaking? I was thinking about putting in stainless steel bolts but then again, maybe that isn't smart since if one of those breaks, it takes the welding removal option off the table. Decisions decisions.....

[@earlzach]

Yes aftermarket. Still broke one.

[@DF-mb9kc]

I hope you checked to make sure that the manifolds were NOT WARPED, before re-installing them!

[@earlzach]

Of course they were warped. Lol

[@Reanimator7336]

They all warp. Thats why the bolts break. Thats why he said he was going to redo them in another 40,000mi. Shitty manifolds from Ram.

[@embraceblack53]

Maybe this is the issue with my 15 Challenger. A rattle coming from my engine in 2nd- 3rd and 3rd-4th.

[@bogieman101]

Maybe I missed it but did removing the other bolts make that rear heat shield bolt loosen up?

[@o-o6355]

this just happened to my 2020 hemi ram. both sides. they replaced both exhaust manifolds, bolts and gaskets. warranty repaired it for free. but after owning the truck for 1 year, why did this happen ?

[@crxwolski]

The exhaust manifolds are cast and will warp. I will be doing this on 2015 durango 5.7 hemi. After I take the manifolds off, I will be finding a machine shop to make them level. I believe this will fix the problem.

[@Searchin4tone]

@@crxwolski Making them level is a temporary fix. The cast iron will warp again. I'm looking into stainless steel headers.

[@Reanimator7336]

You talked about disassembling the drive line. Did you and do you have to?

[@earlzach]

No. The manifold was able to be maneuvered out without separating the steering rod.

[@waltsonger1343]

do you have to have a gas meg welder

[@earlzach]

No, I used Flux core wire. Easy peasy.

[@rolandsonier9734]

Did you planed out your old manifolds or just got new bolts and gaskets?

[@earlzach]

Just new bolts and gaskets. Lasted another two years. On passenger side, Drivers side is still doing good. When I redo my passenger side I'm going to replace the manifold I think.

[@stephendoughty3798]

Don’t forget to get rid of those stupid ass stove bolts buy new ones been there and did that

[@earlzach]

Which bolts?

[@RickySlatton]

I torqued mine to 22ft pounds. Do you think that’s too tight?

[@joshwallenberg337]

I can't see the video is too small no matter what way I turn my phone. Thanks for the info though.

[@barrybebenek8691]

Great vid. I’m about to do this on my ‘14. When you mig’d the nut on, where do you clamp my negative from your welder? (Engine/frame/anywhere?). Do I need to remove the battery terminals or just leave them alone? Thanks. 🇨🇦

[@earlzach]

Put a manifold bolt back in the front and clamp ground to the bolt

[@barrybebenek8691]

@@earlzach oh ya, perfect. Thank you. 🇨🇦👍🏼