Here's how you are killing the ALTERNATOR in your car

[@indridcold8433]

I have had my vehicle for 29 years. The alternator has never failed. I have been told it is because it is a Denso alternator.

[@omahanprabla3058]

Don't doubt it one bit, mine is denso as well, I think life is extended too by their position, if they get too hot or are protected well from the elements.

[@nikolay9584]

My Denso had rectifier replace 3 times and counting just because it can't produce enuf power for forelights and charging under 2000 RPM.

[@DGQ1Q2]

I am very impress

[@68orangecrate26]

It was assembled 29 years ago… Before everything manufactured turned to garbage.

[@PistonAvatarGuy]

Yup, I've always had old, high mileage Hondas, never had a Denso alternator fail. The one alternator that failed in a Honda that I maintained was not a Denso. That car did have over 200k miles on it, though.

[@veronicahawthorne3452]

I drive a 1993 Toyota Camry. My alternator final went after driving her 23 years. It was the original alternator from 1993. Same with my a/c compressor I just replaced. Cannot kill the older Camrys!

[@crand20033]

You can if you wait 23 years. 🤣

[@djnor1979]

Absolutely correct video, i would add one thing: You are not just making your alternator work harder with a half dead battery, but due to significant power losses, your fuel consumption will increase as well, significantly! (Talking about adding up to an extra liter every 100km - own experience)

[@indridcold8433]

@@djnor1979 Yes, indeed. If you have a more modernised vehicle, the antilock brake light, and traction control light, will turn on, as well. On even more new vehicles, the check engine light and transmission light will turn on as well. All this is also including the battery light, or alternator light. It seems excessive. But the sensors need specific voltages to work properly. It is not like the old mechanical actuators that could trigger and any voltage.

[@jeffreyread2055]

Spot on mate. As a battery distributor all I can say is, clients who thinks that they are smarter than the battery tester will definately run into electrical issues with their alternator at a much faster rate compared to clients who follows what the tester shows.

[@ewicky]

My favorite is when the fancy battery tester shows a battery is healthy but an actual load test with a real load tester reveals the truth.

[@TheThunderwars]

Classical issue is a bad engine to ground wire. Alternator are grounded using the engine, which is grounded using the engine to ground cable. It causes low voltage once you need any load and another symptom is a hard start even though the battery is full because the starter is also grounded through the engine. Replacing or cleaning the connection wil solve this.

[@djnor1979]

This is absolutely true. Battery is grounded to the Chassis, so does Engine at a different location, in many cars. To help your aging car's electrical system to function properly, i would highly recommend installing an extra ground cable between the battery and the engine, as this will significantly improve both the engine start and the battery charge. And do not be cheap on the copper, any undersized cable will be just another resistance on the circuit which will consume power! In case of difficult engine start, always measure the voltage drop on the ground between the battery and the engine, you will be surprised to see how much voltage you can lose on those aging ground cables ...

[@indridcold8433]

@@TheThunderwars if something like a bonnet, or bumper comes ungrounded, the radio makes horrible sounds due to sparks from the sparkplugs. The bonnet, or bumper, behaves like an antenna, picking up the spark noise. The radio antenna is, close to the bonnet, or bumper, and it picks up the signal from the bonnet, or bumper.

[@gabrielvieira6529]

My car temp gauge wacks because of that bad mass

[@8avexp]

On my '88 Jeep Cherokee and '69 AMX, the negative battery cable is connected directly to the engine block. That AMX has only a factory radio and heater and not much else, and a 35-amp alternator.

[@indridcold8433]

@8avexp I have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler I bought in mid 1996. It has heat, and a radio with cassette. It has no antilock brakes, no power windows, no power seats, no power door locks, no power mirrors, no power brake assist, no lane departure warning, no lane departed assist, no auto stop, no auto pilot, no automatic transmission, no auto clutch, no auto headlights, no auto wipers, no auto dim mirrors, no side warnings, no cameras, no internet, no touch screens, no roof, no crank windows, no steering wheel radio controls, no heated seats, no heated steering wheel, no auto high beams, no traction control the way modern vehicles have it, no four cylinder engine, no driving computer, no reverse sensors, no sway control, no flimsy independent suspension, no belly dragging lack of ground clearance, no push button 4x4, no driving modes, no mouse, to voice control, no bluetooth, no glass windows, no digital speedometer, no eco anything at all, no electronic parking brake, no built in child safety seat, no info'tainment center, no road condition sensing, no GPS, and especially no engine auto stop and start, engine killing, design flaw. This is why it currently has 448,000 miles in the original drivetrain. There is no way modern garbage could make to 29 years without extensive repairs. I know this. I work on a sales fleet for work. Toyota is just about the only good vehicle left, and it is starting to become over engineered which will mark the downfall of its reliability soon. The more I work on the new garbage, the more my antique Jeep looks and runs good.

[@Abitibidoug]

Don't forget that if your car has over 200,000 Km on the clock you should change the brushes. My past experience shows they will fail from wearing out by 230,000Km. I've had 3 such failures on past cars, luckily all close to home. The fourth was on a company vehicle, which had to be towed to the headquarters about 50 Km away.

[@SKYGUY1]

When our 2000 year model Dodge Grand Caravan hit 120,000 miles (it was 22 years old at the time) I replaced my alternator as a matter of course. That way I could do the job at a convenient time and place (my driveway, when I was ready) rather than having to have my car towed from the side of the road, or some shopping center parking lot) I upped the size from the 90 amp original to a 130 amp replacement to use w/ an Inverter just in case I need it during a power outage. I keep the original alternator aboard the van as a spare, if the new one fails on the road somewhere. Thanks for the tips.

[@gabrielvieira6529]

I can relate to that. My battery was dying. The day I went to the battery seller it checked the altenator, it said it was charging over 14 volts, and they said it needed the voltage regulator replaced. The battery was changed and it has normalyzed! And funny story. My dad's car used to blink the alternator light when the revvs were too low, it was useful to prevent it from stalling lol!

[@Finglesham]

Compared to when I started driving, 1966, alternators are wonderful. The dynamos were always getting gummed up commutators as well as giving low outputs. The only alternators failure I have had was on a 2l duratec Mondeo but it was after 14 years so cannot grumble. This alternator had a clutch so that no overcharging occurred, This meant the battery lasted 11 years. Great improvement over 1960s cars.

[@johnmitchell8925]

Most modern vehicles no longer use a voltage regulator. The power train control module monitors the battery voltage and also controls the voltage output of the alternator Thats why its so easy to misdiagnose the charging system

[@crand20033]

If your battery terminals have corrosion on them or they are loose the battery won't charging properly and the alternator can be falsely blamed.

[@lowen74s]

Across the 10 or so vehicles I have owned they've all needed new alternators due to the brushes wearing out. No warning, just one day no more charging. Apart from 1 that was filled with mud from offroading the rest were on vehicles having done over 100,000miles, to me they're a consumable component

[@iulian2548]

Good points about the alternator. Its premature failure can be accelerated by engine bay excessive temps as well (same goes for anything else actually). Mileage is much less relevant than its lifespan in hours. Edit: I've heard of preventive bearings and bushings replacement, which allegedly prolongs the life of the alternator, especially on large engines where it works at high temps.

[@DmitrySapko]

Preventive service was common for commercial large vehicles. Not anymore - isn't worth it due to labor costs.

[@jeffreyread2055]

What kind of time frame are we looking at for preventive maintenance on alternators ?

[@iulian2548]

@@jeffreyread2055 I am no mechanic, but when a belt service is done one can check the alternator bearings and evaluate how it spins.

[@For_What_It-s_Worth]

@@iulian2548 Any time I remove a belt, I spin/wiggle ALL driven shafts/idler pulleys to check for noisy or worn bearings.

[@paulsengupta971]

When the alternator went on my MR2, I found that you could buy a set of brushes for it from Toyota. So first time, I did this. Second time it went, I found a new old stock replacement alternator for £99 so I went with that. I still have the old one if I fancy changing the brushes again but I would guess after 180k miles that the bearings may not be as good as new!

[@tonylam9548]

Beginning from the late 1980s auto makers started relocating the regulator to the ignition computer instead of a stand alone unit inside/ outside the alternator. There is not much for a computer to do to keep busy in a car, so auto computer chips are generally 3, 4 tier in technology, and more tasks are being done by the computers as the engineers see fit to let the computer do, it is cheaper to put it in the computer , you best not have any such function failure, for it will get very expensive. A regulator portion failed and you have to swap out the whole computer. That usually come after most mechanic already changed the alternator first.

[@juicebox22a]

Happy batteries and happy alternators go together. Keep your battery charged and the alternator stays happy. Proper frequent charging of an AGM battery cam acrually "stretch" the battery.

[@deepbludude4697]

Ive got two vehicles right now both with alternator issues, a 79 Fj45 diesel landcruiser that was re-fitted with a newr 2012 AC Delco ag type alt, it failed BC the PO wired the internal VR with +12VDc to the field terminal instead of to the S terminal. This troopy was rebuilt in 2013 and sat unused till this month when I purchased it. The second is a 88 Fj62 Landcruiser the original denso alternator failed last week so I swapped in a Orielleys one and just ordered brushes to rebuild denso. I believe it failed because the 88 sat dormant from 1998 till I got it running last year. My third truck is a 66 W200 Dodge with a 225 slant 6 the original MOPAR alternator still going strong.

[@andrews-ei2xg]

Just a couple days ago, a Duralast was a Didnotlast for 30 minutes. I ended up getting a Denso.😂😂😂

[@petebaron4643]

Modern cars always run with the headlights on, and lots of other electric accessories. Install an extra large battery, that would cause the alternator to not have to charge the battery as often.

[@Iowa599]

Mechanics don't "just replace repairable alternators" carelessly! We do replace them instead of repairing them, but for good reasons! There are many parts that can go bad (bearings, brushes, regulators) and if we repair one bit, the rest are reused. Do you want to pay me to R&R the alternator again when the reused parts fail? Besides, a remanufactured alternator costs less than repairing an alternator once the labor time is accounted for! Figure 1hr labor to rebuild, so the parts need to cost at least 1hr less than a rebuilt alternator does! That is (almost) never going to happen because the rebuilt alternator will (usually) cost less than one hour of labor! We do care, but we replace them to save the customer!

[@DmitrySapko]

I never said all mechanics are bad. What you say highly depends on the country and labor cost of course. And often replacing a unit is indeed a good solution.

[@juicebox22a]

I agree with this reason for replacing the alternator. It's a crap shoot today. Replace the alternator with a "gold" aftermarket or "oem" and they still die prematurely. Swap, re-swap, swap again, sure the alternator has a warranty but the customer is passed at paying the labor. What needs fixing is quality control, which seems to be in the toilet after the covid era.

[@Iowa599]

@juicebox22a I've got no problem with the original alternator in my car, but it was made before cars were disposable.

[@BigRedTower]

But, you forgot the 15 minutes of AI-generated "history of cars" and "history of alternators" and "history of batteries" and 3 sponsor plugs sprinkled throughout! ;) Thanks for the helpful video! Subbed.

[@DmitrySapko]

Sorry for that. I hope I'll never do that kind of content :)

[@oldbiker9739]

check grounds and for hot loose connections

[@H33t3Speaks]

Also depending on the motor, replacing an alternator/generator can be a very in depth job. Perhaps even thousands of euros/dollars. Unless you're driving something exotic, replacing the battery every 4 years is a simple service that will keep your cars electronics in top shape for there designed service life. If you drive the high-end stuff and can't pay for the service or service it yourself, you are living beyond your means.

[@JH-fv1gq]

My alternator failed on 15 year VW Corrado. Stranded side of road, turned out to be one of the brushes out of position,quick wiggle and off I went again.

[@AnthonyJ350]

100% agree on charging up the battery on an automatic charger (make sure itn has settings for traditional lead flooded and AGM) every six months. You can really maximize the life of your battery. Also upgrade the grounds of the charging system. Great video!

[@malcolmmarzo2461]

A symptom I had on a 75,000 mile Subaru Forester was weird. For a couple of months whenever I drove over a rough part of a road the dashboard would be triggered with several trouble lights. I would clear them with my installed Scan Gauge unit. This happened multiple times. Then one day all of the lights would come on and I couldn't clear them, and had to get home in limp mode. After a couple of weeks of chasing codes and sensors I noticed the scanner said 11.2 volts. So I replaced a two-year-old premium battery. No trouble codes but still low voltage. Replacing the alternator was the solution. You get "no communication" messages on the CAN-Bus system if the voltage is low. Duh. I felt like the dummy who wonders why his laptop is acting funny because its battery is low and isn't plugged in : -) My guess is that the alternator was failing on rough roads because the brushes were bad enough to respond to jiggles.

[@VICTORGb-i2o]

I have a Kia Stinger 2020 GT2 and I usually get an alert on my dashboard that says battery draining due to external device and I've taken it to multiple workshop nobody seems to be able to find the root cause of the problem because if the car is parked for 2/3 days without been driven it kills the battery totally and I will have to jump start the car so far I've had to replace my battery twice does any one have a similar issue or knows exactly could be the problem? I will appreciate any suggestions or opinions at this point.. Thanks!

[@DmitrySapko]

Hey! I haven't heard about common drain issues with the Stinger. And I'm sure a good electrician will easily find the drain. In short, you need to turn the car off and measure possible current at every single fuse the car has. If there is a current flowing through a certain fuse, you then need to identify what this fuse covers and you will get the idea of the drain. If there are no drains, my wild guess would be that the key fob is usually located near the car when it sits and they keep "communicating" with each other which causes battery drain.

[@michaelstout8152]

I haven't finished this video yet but i just wanted to say the alternator in my 91 Silverado 33 years old is still charging my battery.. get this, i just replaced the battery in 2022 and the date code on the battery was 2012.

[@juicebox22a]

AGM ?

[@michaelstout8152]

@juicebox22a No, just regular AutoZone battery 78 group, but I did however add distilled water at some point to top off the cells.

[@johnkeen2345]

I think one of the most common faults with an alternator is the free-running pulley.

[@mda5003]

On my 14-year-old car that hasn't been used very often, current mileage around 35,000, the battery light came on and although the belt and pulley was still okay, the alternator clearly wasn't charging the battery - but the battery was really old. Despite changing the battery the alternator still would not charge so I replaced the alternator - I suspected the regulator but couldn't get at it so for the sake of £90 I decided on replacement. So yes, maybe it died because it had been struggling with the old battery.

[@brycegman8150]

By using it. Saved myself some time

[@TheAllMightyGodofCod]

15 years old C4, never had a probelm with the alternator ... 17 years old Aygo, bever had a problem with the alternator. Had a 24 years old Renault 19 and never had an alternator problem. 28 years old Passat, never had a problem. My dad had a 33 years old Rebault 19... Never had a problem with the alternator. He also had an Opel for 24 years and I dont remember it having trouble with the alternator

[@indridcold8433]

@@TheAllMightyGodofCod The newer the vehicle, the more problematic the components will be. This is due to corporation greed trying to maximise profit over quality. I change alternators on newer vehicles a, lot. Yet, the employees with fossilised vehicles never fail. When a $12 accelerator cable, that rarely failed, is changed for a plastic computerised accelerator that is worth cents to make but costs $400 for the customer to replace, and is problematic, that is definitely profit over quality. They want it to fail to sell rhe customer a crappy computerised accelerator. Nissan is a great example. There are 30 year old Nissans that are running flawlessly. Yet, the new ones are falling apart right out of warranty due to the junk CVTs that replaced the venerable hydraulic, gear driven, transmissions. They are so bad that our shop actually keeps them in stock. That is how bad they are. A flawless automatic transmission was changed to maximise profits.

[@TheAllMightyGodofCod]

@indridcold8433 Absolut nonsense and you provide no facts to support that idea. Have a nice day.

[@kinasc1575]

​@TheAllMightyGodofCod You obviously don't know much about cars do you.

[@TheAllMightyGodofCod]

@kinasc1575 F.O.

[@For_What_It-s_Worth]

@@TheAllMightyGodofCod It is certainly nonsense. It just happens to also be true. Sad, but true.

[@twobeagles1365]

One rule people don't know, A Alternator is designed to maintain battery charge level NOT charge the battery, Weak battery , loose & corroded connections will cause alternator to charge more often or for longer periods of time, this creates heat and heat destroys electrical components in the alternator. If you ever experienced a bad battery and was told your alternator is bad too, most often the bad battery burnt the alternator up because it continuously tried to keep voltages at correct levels. Do yourself a favor when cranking issues arise and battery has weaken Replace it, and ck and clean terminals to battery once or twice a year, chances are Battery life will be longer. My last battery in my 2001 Tacoma was 9.5 yrs old when it died, 315 k on original Alternator.... Still Rollin in the Taco....

[@theyjustwantyourmoney4539]

It’s difficult to get places that sell alternator parts

[@lesklower7281]

I own a 1997 Toyota Hilux in Australia and it may have its original alternator when l bought the Hilux 5 years ago l got no service records the only paperwork was the registration paper but l know for one thing l replaced the battery 5 years ago but my Hilux is extremely analog two electronic components have failed the radio cassette player and the modul for the cruise but who needs cruise control live without it and the cruise control was an optional extra Toyota over engineered the 5th generation Toyota Hilux because the carburator may be original but with 439000 kilometres every things fine on my Hilux l use it regularly for running erons l am a retired courier and actually it is one of the best commercial vehicles l have ever bought and the Hilux was my last courier vehicle l own once l found out what an indestructible unbreakable reliable and dependable vehicle it is and it maybe the best vehicle ever made as claimed by another you tuber

[@DmitrySapko]

Agree, super-reliable Toyotas. Pity the modern ones are way worse and complicated.

[@lesklower7281]

@DmitrySapko Still they are one of the best new vehicles to buy but some Toyota's are having reliability problems in the USA but Toyota's are the most popular vehicle in Australia were most of the taxis are Toyota Camery Hybrids and also use Toyota Hiaces for transporting disabled passengers and all private disabled vans are Toyota Hiaces and even the JDM Toyota people movers which a company come with passenger seats that swing out and in some cases were the actual seat is an electric wheel chair and a ramp comes out the left hand side and the disabled passenger just drives their wheelchair out if the van available in Australia and they all JDMs

[@connor_flanigan]

Truman Capote - alternator expert

[@louarmstrong6128]

I have read spilling oil on it could damage it also

[@DmitrySapko]

Certainly. Oil or coolant may kill it immediately.

[@johnmitchell8925]

modern alternators arn't desined to charge low batteries , that why the state of charge and the health of your battery is so important

[@ken2400]

Funny my first auto repair was to replace brushes on a 1978 Plymouth Horizon alternator

[@jpnovember9017]

it is usually the 'diode' causing problems in the alternator. so Just check it then replace this part. its very cheap.

[@derekhobbs1102]

The alternator in my Kia Carnival failed due to rocker cover oil leak.

[@DmitrySapko]

Right, forgot about leaks. But we learn about them too late anyway.

[@justhere4721]

Even if it is the bearing or the voltage regulator, they're still gonna replace the alternator. People don't know how to rebuild alternators and majority of shops won't bother.

[@DmitrySapko]

Yep, true

[@hotrodray6802]

At today's shop labor prices, it is not cost effective to do most rebuilds. $100+ labor plus parts... 🤔

[@DmitrySapko]

May be true for some models. But alternators aren't cheap these days, too. While bearings or brushes are dirt cheap and easily available.

[@timothykeith1367]

An alternator technician said that using a trickle charger daily can double alternator life because it reduces heat from charging the battery

[@DmitrySapko]

Probably, daily is a bit too much. Modern batteries will need maintenance once every 4-6 months to last way longer than average. Daily charging may destroy the battery pretty fast. But depends on the battery type, too.

[@blipco5]

You talk sense. I subscribed. 👍

[@kevin-y6f8o]

My 2005 Camry has 220k miles. I just changed the factory alternator. 😮😮

[@lot10101]

I have always overspecced my alternator...😅

[@nikolay9584]

Negative power balance kills battery and alternator. Too many of cars are unable to charge battery when engine runs idle. If you travel night time thru traffic jams, you get battery discharged at the end. Or you must rev while you are staying. This is devastating to battery life and rectifier becomes expendable.

[@the_kombinator]

My battery warning light has been very, very faintly on (can only see it at night) so I installed a volts gauge - it puts out like 14.5v, sometimes a bit more. It's been fine for the 4 years and 60K I put on it.

[@DmitrySapko]

Voltage is fine. Must have been some problem with the dash or something.

[@the_kombinator]

@@DmitrySapko It gets slightly brighter when the load is higher (defrost, full fan, etc). Belt's fine, output at alternator matches what the inside gauge says. I've just been living with it :)

[@gabrielvieira6529]

@@the_kombinator Impressive that it hasn't cooked the electronics on the engine. They are not meant to handle that voltage!

[@the_kombinator]

@@gabrielvieira6529 Um, 14.5v? I haven't even changed a single bulb in that car in the 4 years I've owned it. My classic hits 15v when its on high idle, no electronics to burn in there though :P

[@gabrielvieira6529]

@@the_kombinator Ah, classic cars. The classics are built stronger. Enjoy your ride!

[@puncht37]

Heat. Number 1 killer of alternators.

[@redbaron6805]

Heat is the #1 killer of batteries. Alternators are designed for the engine compartment temperatures, so heat is not really a lifespan factor...

[@puncht37]

@@redbaron6805 Heat is THE killer of all things electrical.

[@redbaron6805]

@@puncht37 That simply isn't true. Electronics components have a temperature range. If you operate them within their designed temperature range, literally nothing will happen. Only when they are operated OUTSIDE of their designed temperature range, does heat become an issue. If you look at the Data Sheet for any electronics part, it lists the operating range it is designed for. Even if the component is in an environment you consider "hot" the rule still applies. But don't worry, I have only been doing this for 30 years, so I'm sure you can teach me something about how this works...

[@puncht37]

@@redbaron6805 Iv`e been a tech for 40. So, maybe so.

[@louarmstrong6128]

​@@puncht37😮 you tell 'em punch

[@butWhyDad]

I just know a weak battery will mess with your car's electronics because it lost its ability to regulate voltage so when you turn on AC or turn steering wheel your lights dim your AC blower slows etc. so safe to say this triggers alternator to work as hard as it can vs a good battery wouldnt trigger that response.

[@DmitrySapko]

Usually, if you experience voltage anomalies like dimming lights when the engine is working, it's all about alternator or voltage regulator only. Dying battery will mess up things before the engine is started. But if it's eventually started, all power should go only from the alternator. Otherwise, something is wrong in the system.

[@butWhyDad]

@@DmitrySapko I am telling you this because my AC fans would slow to significantly slower speed like out of 4 settings it would go from 3 to 1 speed just from turning my steering wheel when parallel parking etc. and my battery was providing 350 CCA out of 500 regular and internal res of 8-9. Although it would start my car it shows the role of batteries as a buffer in high demand situations. After all your car uses DC but your alternator produces AC so your battery is the source of electricity not alternator for the stuff in your car, it needs to be converted to DC. A bad battery will not do a good job of keeping a steady voltage and cause big ripples and lack of sudden power since alternator can't produce enough in a second. I replaced my battery and problem is fixed as expected. I also tested my alternator and it charges at 14.1v so nothing is wrong with the alternator anyway.

[@anthonyhitchings1051]

they are reliable - my 2008 Jeep Liberty got to 200,000 miles before failing.

[@richardbeckmann6720]

My 04 jeep wj costs $120 for a new one only have to unscrew 2 bolts and unsnap a connector plug to replace it in about 3 minutes. I replace mine every 4 years.

[@HEMI345S]

I replace mine with every oil change 😂😂😂

[@T1t4n1umSh13ld]

You are underrated asf, you deserve way more views than what you are getting now.

[@dennispowers7261]

They become hot when i drive my car??

[@DmitrySapko]

If just hot, it's ok. If red-hot, there is a problem - the alternator is dying.

[@static_Tricolor_camry]

So this is what I've been saying for months even years, always have a tool box in your trunk with a spare Alternator because Alternators are unpredictable. They can die on you at any given moment, replacing an Alternator on the side of the road is better than spending $300 on a tow truck. Plus you'll be back on the raod after a few hours.

[@DmitrySapko]

It's getting harder to replace almost anything on the side of the road in modern cars, unfortunately.

[@static_Tricolor_camry]

@@DmitrySapko Not my cars I drive a 17 years old Camry and a 2016 Scion TC both Alternators are on top of the engine. I don't drive new modern junks.

[@ColAngus]

The original alternator in my 1987 Mustang is still working......

[@BartSliggers]

My car uses a giant alternator in reverse as its main mode of propulsion.

[@coastalbeer]

By the way, your alternator maintains your battery. It does not charge it back to a full charge.

[@adebrade172]

My car packed up, said it was alternator turns out it was voltage regulator cost few quid to fix instead of hundreds

[@unclefester4626]

There are alternators made specifically for stereo systems....

[@the_kombinator]

Serpentine belt? Out of the 5 cars I own, ONE has a serpentine belt.

[@oleksandrs1102]

Driving kills a car, non driving is also kills

[@coastalbeer]

I charge my battery every two months!

[@josemercado4702]

There is no need to change the battery if you use the car frequently.

[@StopTeoriomSpiskowym]

Alternator rev faster than engine (small wheel). its looks like at 1000rpm its rev 2000

[@VincentScales]

Is the price of repairs worth the cost of an alternator? $150 to $950 depending on your car!

[@DmitrySapko]

Absolutely depends on a car and your country (labor cost).

[@josemercado4702]

A bad battery cell will kill your alternator

[@michaelduke4500]

Meat & potatoes at 2:34.

[@xsword0001]

😂too old battery is #1 killer for alternator

[@Szamuz]

Weak battery won't cause the alternator to work at it's maximum capacity unless the battery is shorted or something, it'll charge it very quickly to the proper voltage after startup and nothing else will happen

[@DmitrySapko]

No, the system will only switch to normal voltage when the battery is 12.5-12.8 volts, depending on the battery type and software in your car. Up until that, the voltage regulator will send 14+ volts to charge the battery.

[@Szamuz]

@DmitrySapko I think you need to learn a little bit more before trying to teach others

[@DmitrySapko]

Thx for your advice :)

[@ruben_balea]

@@DmitrySapko For flooded type lead acid batteries it doesn't matter if the alternator makes 14.4V, the batteries will quickly reach that voltage without pulling to much current and then the current will be way less than 10A so the battery will take a lot of hours or even days with the engine running to be 90% recharged. To push a lot of Amps into a flooded battery you need to increase the voltage further than it's recommended for things like radios and enough to blow all incandescent bulbs in a few seconds, so you must remove the battery from the car, it isn't enough to disconnect it because it can still explode covering the engine bay in acid... Chances are it will explode even if you are careful and follow all the instructions, using a fast charger is very dangerous, it's the battery equivalent of split ring rims for tires. AGM and GEL batteries can pull more current but usually the OEM alternator and the OEM battery are proportionally sized to not cause problems, unless you installed a bigger battery the alternator should be OK. And lithium batteries aren't straight replacements for cars that were designed to use lead acid batteries. Those can work on motorcycles and riding mowers that have a flywheel generator because those generators have the ability to limit their own output, but most external (belt driven) alternators can't do that.

[@gabrielvieira6529]

@@Szamuz It will make the alternator be full power. I have tasted that before. The alternator was dumping its maximum voltage to a dead battery I had. Now its changeed and it charges to 12.8v normally

[@pastabravo12]

5:20

[@phyllisgraham6985]

Bad ground

[@johnshaw5001]

What! You are so off base with this video. If you actually did research alternator failure is NOT a problem. Although I am not quite sure where you live and what vehicles you are referencing. Also, your criticism of dealership technicians is wrong. Many years ago, due to customer demand for quick turnaround, independent and Dealerships have gone from repairing components to simply replacing them. With that said, you are misleading anyone without technical knowledge in the automotive field. BTY I have over 45 years in the automotive field. The last 21 years as the Technical Training Manager with one of the leading automobile manufacturers.

[@billdrift728]

I'm getting a strong sense that you are not the Mechanic or expert you claim to be. As a ASE certified master mechanic with 24 years of experience, I smell fraud

[@DmitrySapko]

Curious to know what made you think this way :-)

[@billdrift728]

@DmitrySapko The way you present inaccurat information / misinformation which made me check your website and came to that conclusion. Could you please state your certifications and work experience so I can move on sir? I hope that you can understand my position as a industry professional, we can't have uncredible pretenders running around

[@DmitrySapko]

Well, compared to you, I'm not an expert for sure. Compared to guys making tons of bs videos about car problems on youtube, I'm a super expert. I live in Ukraine. What kind of certification do you want to see? :) Also, KZbin is big. If my vids seem to be inaccurate, no one actually makes you watch them

[@billdrift728]

@@DmitrySapko you claim to be a auto expert and a mechanic, I want to know what makes you think you have the right to make such a bold claim? Because other people are doing it doesn't give you the right to use AI and make content on a false authoritative standpoint. It's fine to be a auto enthusiasts, if fact that's awesome. You will make way better videos if you are honest with who you are, what you want to make videos about, how you got this information and just be yourself. You don't have to be a real mechanic or expert to make great content, just be honest, the truth always comes out in the end and as long as you're honest, no one can take your credibility. Stop using AI, be creative and make content on what you find the most interesting

[@DmitrySapko]

What kind of AI are you talking about? :) That's just ridiculous. I should've stopped this conversation long ago, but it's really annoying. I'm a mechanic with 10 years of exp. I can defend any point stated in my videos or articles. Why is everyone sure they know what kind of content I should make or what I should say? If you don't like it, find something you will like. If you don't agree with something, you are more than welcome to discuss that. You came here with bold comments without being specific at all. I think I should just block you :)

[@robertmcnair983]

Bull shit