High Detail Resin Tiles for FROSTGRAVE - Part ONE

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#BlackMagicCraft #Episode127 #Frostgrave
In this episode I start the process of making some high detail brick pattern 12"x12" tiles/boards for use in Forstgrave and other games like Dungeons & Dragons.
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[@WilSisney]

Ballsy doesn't begin to describe this build. I appreciate that you pivoted in the middle of the build and scaled up in such a smart way. Impressive work, and I can't wait to see how these boards turn out!

[@Lovelydeck]

I appreciate you sharing the mistakes you make along a projects journey! Each new creation presents its own unique set of challenges and sometimes you just need to use a little creative problem solving in order to course correct instead of barreling ahead with a plan that’s doomed to fail.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Good news! There are more videos to come in the series and this project continues to be full of mistakes and challenges 😂

[@Lovelydeck]

My mistakes are as follows Mistake one: Get new hobby Mistake two: invest way too much time and money into said hobby Mistake three: realize have no one to share hobby with cause your dnd group plays online

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

🥺

[@Lovelydeck]

I lie in wait. Preparing for the inevitable day we are finally able to have a session all together in person. They won’t know what hit them.

[@barbaraleaweaver-mercado1820]

Got my Frostgrave book and my husband is very interested in playing. He told me to start building the ruins and painting the minis. Hello, I'm just beginning with this hobby. I will check out more of your vids and see if I can make things we can use. I've played rpgs for over 30 years, but never built terrain. Wish me luck.

[@nunyobusiness686]

Hey, I love what you're doing here man! I work with middle schoolers and I'm running a DnD terrain building club with your videos as the inspiration. Keep up the good work!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I bleeped the f*ck just for you 😘

[@nunyobusiness686]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Lol, but for real though, I almost couldn't because the early episodes when you would knock back a beer before you started. I thought it was a nice personal touch, but I was relieved that later episodes you changed your style in that regard!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

It was a conscious decision at some point to be as family friendly as I can manage to be. It ain’t always easy.

[@nunyobusiness686]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Well, the effort definitely is noticed and appreciated! You've introduced me to a great new hobby, and I want to pass it on to my students. Now if only they'd approve the proxxon table...

[@cerethpainting6606]

I bet your a pretty cool teacher.

[@Blandco]

Ooh...You could get some clear resin on sale and make giant translucent ice tiles now!

[@wonderwend1]

I LOVE it when people like you show the process of thinking on the hoof. It helps others learn

[@bretts2356]

I bet peeling that big silicone mold off was super-satisfying. The video certainly looked that way.

[@jasonpbass]

for the big 12x12 mold i would recommend adding some keys and a master shell so that your outer border stays straight. i have a feeling that once you pour the resin you will get slightly wonky edges.

[@jackdempsy7104]

You’re spot-on for highlighting the need for eye protection and a mask for the dust. Game crafting becomes a lot more difficult without an eyeball and half lung capacity. You gained 15 karma victory life points for highlighting safety.

[@cycoholic]

Pour some water into your mold to fill it, then carefully pour it into a measuring cup. That way you then know the volume of the mold, so you can more accurately measure the amount of resin to mix and pour. Of course, your mold would be more difficult to handle and pour when full of water, so reverse the process. Fill a measuring cup with water, note the amount, then carefully fill the mold. Then note the amount remaining in the measuring cup. Subtract the last number from the first to determine the volume of the mold. That way, you'll have less waste of resin. You can also do the same with the silicon when making the mold. A final tip, if you have mixed to much silicone, pour the excess into a small cup or similar, and then pull out the small bricks when cured. Then when you make a laege mold, you can chop up the cured bricks to fit in the larger mold to help fill the void and use less new silicone. For excess resin, keep your smaller molds handy when pouring resin into your current project. That way, you can build up a collection of pre-cast pieces (so think of things you might be using more often, say like your doors in a previous video), already for you and waiting. 😉

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Yea, I’m now done all the big pours. I actually did test the volume with water first.

[@cycoholic]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial It's also a good idea to write the volume directly on the mold for future reference. :)

[@boothy918]

Iv learned so much from your vids. Really easy to watch/listen to, love that you take the time to address issues we might come across not just show us how its done. Awesome stuff keep it coming!

[@Shinnotatsu]

I loved the sound of when you peeled away the mold. You could hear the heavens open at how perfect that was. Great work my dude.

[@stevekirkbride3843]

The lengths this man will go for us!

[@TheDungeonMattster]

Made a big master mold for my Hirst Arts dungeon tiles. Casting a mold of 10 tiny tiles over and over was killing me so I made a big one that made 64 at a time so I could make them in bulk. Definitely the way to go if you plan on making large numbers of castings. I've always wanted to take the completed tiles and make castings of those but have yet to get around to it. Great video man, love it!

[@Leuvierre]

That's exactly what I did, many many years ago.

[@seangere9698]

A few things to help speed things along for you. Get a piece of pegboard. Make your tiles thicker than what you plan them to be in the end. Drill 4-5 holes half way through them, glue in some wood pegs in the holes (making sure they match the holes in the pegboard). Place them in the pegboard any way you want. Put a barrier around them. Pour your silicone over them demould it. Switch some of the tiles around and do it again. Do this as many times as you want till you have the number of moulds you need to get the job done. I would do 4-5 of them, this way there's plenty of time between pours and it helps keep the life of your moulds lasting longer. I would also make a secondary master of each large tile, 16 smaller tiles, if you want to remould that exact set when your mould has degraded too much to use. This is what I do when I make large tiles from smaller ones. This also allows you to change things around so you can add different textures to it. Say you do a cobblestone street and it's in a ruined city, you can have tiles that have rubble, craters, transitions to dirt or what have you. With this method the options are endless really, only stopped by your imagination. When weighing out large amounts of two part silicone or resin, measure out each part separately and combined them in a third container. This is a really good habit when dealing with resin. Like the problem you had with there being too much resin in the shot glasses. Use them to measure out in then pour them into a larger cup. This way you can reuse the shot glasses and save money in the long run, just remember to make them with an A and a B so you don't pour part A in the part B shot glass or the other way around. I know this is long but I hope this helps if you decide to do something like this again, or for those that are thinking of doing it yourself.

[@TheGameCraftDragon]

Wonderful tips!

[@seangere9698]

@@TheGameCraftDragon Anytime. Always happy to help.

[@litefoot25]

I truly appreciate your honesty in this video, it shows it's not always this perfect process that's easy and fun. It's a ton of hard work and honest re-evaluation when it's not going as planned. This is such great work. Looking forward to part 2, 3,4 however long it needs to take. So close to 100k!

[@fernandogaragnani]

Just passing here to say I love your videos. I don't even use minis or terrains, but I've learned a lot with you! Keep them coming! Amazing work.

[@RaeGrout]

Wowzy i held my breath as you were pealing the mold off. Way cool how it turned out. Thank you.

[@aaronbono4688]

This is been a real great demonstration of how to get into resin casting and it's much appreciated. It's great to see all the gotchas that can happen. I do not plan on getting into resin casting for a little while and I can see that it's good that I'm getting an education in it before jumping in because it's not a simple thing to do. Thanks for the education and showing your difficulties as well as your triumphs. With luck I will learn from your mistakes and have a lot more success more quickly once I get into it.

[@eusebiou-say-bee-oh326]

In reality, there is no such thing as an ideal world because if there were such a thing as an ideal world then there would be no growth, no striving to improve one's self and become the best that they can be - whether approaching this in a positive way or a negative one, one always work themselves towards that relative perfection. Wonderful videos, Black magic. Your vids open up possibilities of common folk. Keep inspiring.

[@knghtbrd]

Normally you do NOT want to hear a carpenter or contractor to be talking about "big mold". I realize this was a couple years ago now, but I was sitting here cheering like I was watching a big sports gambit play out. Glad it worked out, the mold looks great! On to part 2!

[@claylewis8233]

One Mold to Rule Them All!

[@jessicalee333]

I really appreciate seeing the mistakes and misjudgments. You could have done a lot of experimenting and getting everything perfect off-camera, and shown us a perfect build. But I'm more inspired to learn from someone who is NOT an absolute expert, and to see the mistakes that totally will happen when starting to try this stuff as a beginner. A total expert doesn't always know the pitfalls a beginner will experience, they know how to get it perfect so they can say "here's how to get it perfect and here's the perfect stuff to use regardless of cost or time" but they're not necessarily as good at "here's how to get started as a hobbyist and here's what to do when you screw it all up". The fact that you can make some mistakes, and have to revise some plans along the way, and still get a good result is actually really motivating! It's like learning from a big brother. Strangely, my actual big brother is a master mold-maker and sculptor who does work for theme parks and museums and stuff, and I would never ask him about this kind of stuff. He's too much of an expert! XD

[@nickb9171]

This is a hilarious. One of your best videos yet!!

[@mikepalmer2219]

I will be starting to use resins and molds this year. I cannot begin to describe how valuable your videos have been. I think you will save me from many mistakes. Thank you so much for sharing all that you do.

[@nahsti8043]

I just want you too know that the $1 challenge will never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever get old. There is so much too do! From turning cheap packets of farm animals into corpses or zombie animals, flaming undead horses etc it's endless and I hope to see lots of them.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Don’t worry, I’ll still do it.....and this project is making me want to do it more than ever. So once this series wraps I’m likely headed out to the dollar store for a fun challenge.

[@nahsti8043]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Please do a zombie cow! haha

[@ReflexologyFTW]

Ahhh Winterpeg. Jeremy, you and your friends aren't playing Frostgrave, you're LIVING it lol. Great build!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

The biggest reason we avoided it for years is honestly that the idea of playing games in a winter setting, living in Winnipeg, is a bit off putting.

[@Blandco]

I use the little plastic shotglasses from the dollar store to get equal amounts for 2 part resin and then I pour both into a larger cup for mixing. I always make myself go slow with the mixing and used figure 8s and try to scrape the bottom a couple of times.

[@beeezlebub]

I'm so pumped on this Frostgrave project! I've been reading over the book, collecting ideas for my next massive build. You couldn't have brought this to life at a better time. I'm sure I'm not the only one who feels this way either haha. Cheers Jeremy, you da man.

[@borna1231]

Yup, aboslutely agree! My favourite crafting channel started a Frostgrave build just as I´m finishing up my two warbands and starting to think about terrain:). Best timing evah!

[@beeezlebub]

Hey Jeremey! I was thinking if you put those 1'x1' casts onto '1x'1 floor tiles they might be a good option. Maybe a non-slip material on the bottom. Just a thought

[@seangere9698]

I'm only making this second post as the first one is a bit long and this is something different. You could always make a vibration table to get the bubbles to come to the surface. It's easy to make and show with pictures but a little harder to explain, but I will do my best. You can make one that fits on the top of your work table or you can make a full sized table if you're making a lot of parts/large parts. Basically you'll need a floating tabletop. And a frame with legs. Half way between each leg you will want to drill a hole that you can place a peg in. Glue the peg in. Mark and drill corresponding holes in the top, but these holes will need to be larger then the pegs, the size will depend on the size of the springs you use. You want a snug fit with the springs. The springs need to be strong enough to hold the tabletop and the combined weight of what you're making. Basically you will want the tabletop to still be able to move some when it has the full weight of everything to be made. This includes the mould/s and resin when poured into the mould/s. You will need an electric back massager. Attack this to the underside of the tabletop. There's countless ways to do this. I use plumbing tie. The roll of metal stripping with holes in it that plumbers use to keep pipes from moving in walls. Its as simple a cutting two or three strips long enough to mould the the massager and have 2 inches or so overhang so you can attach to the table with one or two screws on each end of the ties. And that's about it. Place your moulds on the table, pour you resin, or if making a mould your silicone, turn on the massager and let it run for a few minutes and it should vibrate the tabletop enough to make any and all bubbles move to the surface where they can be popped easily.

[@whilehobbying]

I like how anxious and relieved you sound after you pulled off the big mould! Nice job!

[@evanacosta1402]

Something that really helped me out was to microwave my silicone mold before putting the baby powder on. One cause of bubbles in addition to surface tension is differential temperature between resin and mold; so microwaving the mold will help with that.

[@hokipokist]

Two tips from a composites perspective (I have absolutely no terrain building experience!): 1) Mould release wax is absolutely phenomenal if plasticine is being crap around seam lines/returns. 2) if you run a sander on the sides of the mould base board it shakes out nearly all of the air bubbles.

[@cartoon80s90s]

This is what I call an admirable commitment to your viewers. You traveled to Felstad itself to increase immersion. Well done, sir. I think 3x3 tiles would be easier to work with, both for casting and storing. Initially I thought that the first tile you made was intended for a wall section and not ground because it looked amazing as a stone/dungeon wall surface. Also, with all this effort you put into making these, I think shaping the tiles so they had a vague 1 inch grid in addition to the cobblestone texture would be better since you could use them for dnd as well. I checked the amazon links you provided us with and I was surprised by how more expensive SMOOTH-CAST is on German Amazon compared to UK (68 vs 25 euro). Sadly they don't ship from UK this product where I live, and €68 (probably close to €78 with shipping) is quite expensive for ~1lt (2 pints) of the product. It would be interesting to hear how much of the resin and the OOMOO 25 you needed for what you finally build and how much it cost.

[@reluctantartsy]

Can’t wait to see a battle report ... looks great.

[@jeremygriffin620]

Enjoyed this one fiercely. You've made me greatly consider trying this. Also, I bought the Frostgrave book at my LGS based on your recommendation on Wednesday. Thanks, I think I'm going to like it!

[@coleyounger8655]

I'm more concerned as a canadian as to why you ventured out into the wilderness without your Hockey stick and emergency Maple Syrup supply to ensure your survival? ;)

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Concealed carry

[@coleyounger8655]

Perfect. I would also have accepted "strapped to my Dogsled/snowshoes"

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

In all honesty, mid hike I was really regretting not putting on my snowshoes. I have them.

[@coleyounger8655]

thats awesome, i live in the middle of the city and am not much of an outdoors type person so i have never invested in a pair.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I own a forest and am 10 minutes from downtown. Best of both worlds and very lucky.

[@jmmartin7766]

I appreciate the way you're willing to 'sacrifice the body' for your craft. I'm originally from Florida, and so I *will never do 'cold'* if I have a choice... So, thanks for doing so, because I *never* will... 🖐😑🖑

[@sunpowerguru3993]

I use Leggos to build my mold boxes. They are fast, easy, and reusable, and well worth the expense.

[@Mystic-realm]

Well done sir you passed the trail by ordeal! The advise you gave at 14 minutes is defiantly the way. 9 tile by 9 tile is good size for a silicone mold. GG! We wish you good fortune on the adventurers to come ~ Frederick & Jennifer

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Oh the ordeal continues......this project is a beast

[@florianw.9545]

"Choo-Choo! I'm breeding like a train". :D I like that you go into frostgrave. Please stay tuned with the crafting vids. TYVM

[@brunomotta259]

You can try use a vacum Chamber to suck all air bubbles, you can also use a refrigerator compressor to get a vaccum pump inexpensible. Very nice project. Best reguards

[@aaronpaige4176]

That last peel was the most stressful part of my day but i am so happy it worked. I need to try casting larger pieces now.

[@ryanbarker5217]

good safety tips, i hope people takes this stuff to heart. it's not always about an injury as much as long term health, so don't let a cool hobby damage you. yeah, i know, don't worry about it, grandpa, right? lol.

[@WylochsArmory]

(veraciously adds silicone and resin to birthday wishlist) As soon as March ends and work slows down, I shall be attempting some of this casting!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Do it! Just make sure to buy what you think you’ll use in a short period. I’m now officially done with my old batch and I can get fresh stuff in smaller qty. This means I can try some of the other silicones smooth one makes....they have a lot.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

That being said it’s only the silicone that was problematic. Resin seemed exactly the same as when I bought it, which is good because it really gets cheaper in higher volumes.

[@WylochsArmory]

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Rockin. I shudder at the thought of wetwork, being a cardboard man and all. Helpful series.

[@benjaminboyle7329]

This was great. I'd love to see more ambitious builds like this that will need to stretch across multiple episodes.

[@f3n1xplat3ad0]

I did learned and was fairly entertained. Thank you for your content.

[@marykayryan7891]

Canada may be cold, but it is definitely is NOT barren. Look at all those trees behind you!

[@ConradCoe]

Another great video! One tip for getting air bubbles to the surface of your silicone and resin is to use a random orbital sander without the paper on it to shake your mold. It's aggressive enough to work in the thick stuff, but not so much that it'll damage your mother mold or wall integrity. Keep it up dude, love what you're doing!

[@garretttroke8800]

You can do this for gridded dungeon tiles as well, keeping your first 6 single tiles as master tiles, and using them to make a multipiece mold to knock out 6 tiles at a time (of course you can make multiple molds to knock out a bunch at once). This means you can make highly detailed tiles with far less effort than individually detailing your xps tiles.

[@carterdymock3996]

Amazing build, you've inspired me to make some master molds for a project i've been putting off for the better part of a year, Thank you!

[@gregtheredneck1715]

Good heads up about the resin dust. In addition to wearing a respirator while sanding I'd also have a room air purifier going in my crafting area. I use one and it does wonders for wood dust also with a charcoal filter it keeps unpleasant odors from getting into the rest of your house.

[@andrewdavid1278]

I use silicone every day for work and we suffered from dodgy scales conking out for ages. Eventually we brought a wall-powered supermarket scale from ebay (~$20) and haven't looked back since. They can be a tad bulky, but well worth the bench space if you're gonna do a lot of heavy silicone jobs. P.S. Absolutely love your work Jeremy!

[@readhistory2023]

One of the other builders on KZbin came up with a cheap solution for your dust problem. It's just a cardboard box with a vaccum hose attached and a pexi glass top so you can see what you're working on while sanding or spraying.

[@rujonesin1]

I work with a 2 part liquid epoxy at work frequently. I would suggest wearing the safety glasses when mixing it as well. I was mixing a batch at work and had some splash into my eye while stirring. Fortunately, I was working in a science lab and had an eyewash nearby. Severe intense pain. It seemed impossible that some could splash that far into my eye but it did and it was an immediate regret.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Yup. I definitely did that when I continued to pour the big tiles. Splashes are very real, especially mixing big batches like that.

[@starwarsgeekdotnet]

If you have parts that don't fully cure, one thing you can try is to place the pieces in an oven to post-cure them. I usually put them in at 175° for about 90 minutes. I have a toaster oven that I picked up at a thrift store for about $3 just to use for this purpose.

[@perrygrosshans8537]

Stressful as hell just watching you pull that mold off the 12x12, LOL! Very cool though! Nice work as usual.

[@Soulessdeeds]

You know safety seriously is one of the most important things you can do while doing anything else. I have 4 compressed vertebrae in my back due to poor safety. Not because we were stupid or just didn't care. We had just received the MRAPs. The MAXXPRO's from International. Amazing truck that made our lives safer. But because it was made with civilian truck parts married with military styled armor. No one had the proper tools to work on these trucks. We only had 2 tranny jacks and little else in the way of rolling lifts. We had to remove the belly armor plate off one of the Maxxpro's in order to work on it. While moving the belly plate the jack on my end slid out and I was left with the entire weight of the armor. I still remember feeling crunching and hearing it in my back. I was in incredible pain and for 3 months I was bed ridden. They never sent me home because the medics just assumed I had torn some muscles. And I kept telling them this aint muscle pain. Something is seriously F'd up in my back. I get back from deployment and get sent to the hospital. I have 4 compressed discs in my back one of them is pressing into my spinal column. I live with constant back pain because of this injury. I don't blame the military or my leaders. I was a NCO and I knew the risks. But I also knew we had a mission to get these trucks up and running no matter what. I just drew a unlucky day that has changed my life completely. So yeah be safe out there and don't be afraid to point out unsafe things to your friends and co workers. The day nothing happened but you spoke up could have been the day someone got seriously hurt or worse.

[@cerethpainting6606]

Very entertaining, informative, inspiring and all that jazz! Another great video!

[@johngrasso2124]

I started molding my 3x3 tiles and first time molding anything was a Gelatinous Cube. Came out great. Gonna try and make another and try to make it hollow.

[@cartoon80s90s]

Next time throw in a skeleton and make it look like it is digesting an unfortunate adventurer.

[@johngrasso2124]

@@cartoon80s90s I will be plus gonna throw in a shield, sword, maybe a few skulls and was thinking of alil tiny gold glitter for gold coins

[@dreamwolf7302]

my first thought, i was run through all your videos, upon seeing this one, was a 3'x3' board, with a recessed center, and a slightly raised outer edge, sized so that you could fit the individual squares like puzzle pieces. Make a series of resin modular pieces, some 'blanks' for filler spaces, some wood floor patterns, some stone, some dirt, etc. To set the 1"x1" grid, i feel like it would actually work best with a projector, above the table, making a grid pattern. But this...would be an epic project, although if you found a way to streamline the process, and produce the components in large numbers, with minimal cost, you could amass a hoard to strike envy into the hearts of the greediest of ancient dragons. and probably make some money selling the ones you dont keep.

[@zealman18]

Really great video man! The intro/outro gave me vlogger vibes but in a good way. Nice way to switch it up and show more personality, keep up the solid work dude! The video quality has gone through the roof.

[@Fnordathoth]

Excellent video, scaling up like that was quite smart. Can't wait to see part 2.

[@kentonrusbridge7309]

Long time watcher, first time commenter. The plastic wrap on the resin cases is genius, my tubs are always sealing themselves (seen at 10 minutes) Ps you would have halved your resin casting time by making 2 silicone moulds first

[@woodslore8537]

Been watching a number of your videos now. Had to sub to support a fellow Canadian.

[@meraduddcethin2812]

Probably one of your best videos in quite some time. I especially appreciate the cut to show that, despite the best planning, there are times when you have to change your approach mid-stream. I also greatly appreciate the feeling that we, the community, are learning with you as you do new stuff. I would be concerned that, due to the size and softness of your mould and the volume of resin, the center edge of your tile may warp and come out of true. Mayhap a foamcore/XPS frame for the mould to prevent that would be a safe addition. In any event, I am eagerly awaiting the outcome of your pours. Please keep the excellent content coming.

[@manjr]

For someone wanting to do something like this in a more low-tech fashion, check out the Wilton cake molds (I believe they're for molding fondant). They have a brick one and a stone one. You can fill them with hot glue sticks, melt them in the oven at 200 degrees, and you get a square textured tile.

[@sebastianpadrino5289]

If the cold's getting you down, you should try Frostgrave: Ghost Archipelago. It's much more balanced, a little piratey, and it's set in the tropics! All those exotic diseases, mosquitoes, and tropical storms will make you really appreciate the polar vortex!

[@GojiBaba]

I've had several of the smaller trial bottles of that pourable silicone completely set up and go bad on me when I didn't use them in time. I know that stuff isn't cheap and I usually avoid huge molds because of it, but honestly since you knew it was starting to go bad it was the perfect time to use up a large quantity of it. Heck if you've still got a large quantity left in those buckets you might want to go ahead and make a second mold of those tiles or do something similar with a different design just to use that up. I know the heartbreak of spending a good chunk of cash on silicone then having it go bad.

[@wadecutrell1954]

I have a couple of suggestions that may help you in the future. First is a better mold release agent. Instead of using plain, dry baby powder mix it with isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) until you get a paste. It gets brushed on and has better coverage and no dust. It is also useable in stone molds as well as silicon. The second is when measuring by weight measure parts A and B seperately then mix so you have far less chance of going over your scales weight limit. Silicone is expensive so I do my best to not waste any. A note on sculpting materials.. if you are going to make silicon molds the clas that can keep it from curing properly or accelerate breakdown are the onse that are sulfur based, such as Roma Plastilina. Non sulfur and wax-based clays are excellent for using in silicon molds. I personally use Chavant NSP Medium when doing creature sculpts, or custom prosthetics. It is easily workable by hand or tool, and even more easy to use when lightly heated. I also believe chavant will send clay samples if you write to them I hope this helps and I look forward to your next video.

[@lydian8]

I'm sure you had lots of advice on this project. If you want some tips on working with resin (limiting bubbles and such), let me know. I can point you in the right direction. I love your videos. Always an adventure. Thanks for sharing so much of your talent.

[@BelindaShort]

When you are rolling out clay, the easiest way to transfer things is to roll it out on some parchment or wax paper, then you can lift and take the pieces up far more easily. Depending on the level of detail you are looking for, you could also go for an alginate mold type, they can take a lot more beating. but anyway it's best to measure separately then pour together.

[@ScratchBashing]

19:16 snap, crackle, pop. The satisfying sound of de-molding a master :)

[@berniceofbernicia4784]

I STRONGLY suggest getting some castilene wax from Sculpture Supply Canada. For 50 bucks you can get a selection of hard and soft bricks. When warm it sculpts like clay, can pour at lower temps than pure wax, and can be detailed like wax when cold with tools, including hot tools. You have access to many hot tools, and a cheap chinese hot dental tool set is only 40 bucks (people complaining about them breaking are people that dont understand how duty cycles work, mine is still running after using it regularly for wax AND foam). Even with no additional tools, you will appreciate the material. I use it to make bricks, and i can use metal scrapers and sandpaper to get sharp edges, perfect shiny flat areas, and super intense details. These pieces survive in room temperature from repeat handling, so you can keep your WIP's in view and look/work on them over any length of time without fear that they will lose detail like plasticine will.

[@FluffyCookeZz]

10/10 love watching you fuck up your plans.

[@xSHAD0WENx]

for one sided molds i use glass/plexiglass (you can get that from a cheap picture frame) and spray mold release on it. then i lay a heavy brick on top of it to make it flat(er) as for resin, I use AlumiRes RC-3 from Alumilite, it's a 1:1 mix and the cure time in 2-4 min(they say 5-10). the downside is thats how long the pot life is so you have to be fast with the mixing. but once you get it down you can pop alot of molds out.

[@jimshortt8514]

For bigger molds press cheese cloth onto the back to give it some resistance to tearing! (Model railroading tip)

[@fhuber7507]

The 3X3 grid left by the way you did this will effectively be a grid for gaming... so its not really a bad thing.

[@MrsFizzes]

I actually liked the little bubbles on the surface there. They looked like loose pebbles sitting on top of cobblestones!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

🤔........well, now I have a great justification for the ones I miss during clean up!

[@0820pdb]

A quick fix for thick silicone is get a can of Xylene, it cone in the blue metal can that paint thinner and linseed oil comes in at any hardware store. Just add small amounts to your thick silicone until it thins out to your liking.

[@sadville13]

You could also make molds of the first cast which should have the best amount of detail. Then cast all of your moulds in a big batch to save time. But I think up scaling was the best move for your time.

[@RottenMechGaming]

Frosty ideas. Excellent

[@chriscorbin1142]

Very cool project. You may want to look into getting tint for your resin once you start cranking out tiles. Having it be black or grey before you paint it up might be a help... though I don’t know how it would look with the powder mold release...

[@GunwitchUK]

That is an awesome tutorial. Thank you

[@AIPTutorials]

The thing that causes issues with making a mold from some types of clay is sulfur. It inhibits the curing of the silicone. Just make sure that your clay states that it is sulfur free. I use monster clay and Sargent Art Plastilina. They both work very well while making silicone molds. As far as silicone goes, I started out using OOMOO 30. Its not that great. It breaks down really quickly after casting, and your stored molds are only really usable for about 9-12 months. Also, the shelf life of the containers (even unopened) is only about 6-9 months. I recently started using platinum cured silicone (Smooth-on Mold Star 20T). It will last on the shelf for about 18 months, and your stored mold will last for over a decade. You also get more castings out of a single mold. Use a mold release as well. That will extend the life of you mold as well, especially if you doing a lot of pulls in a row.

[@johnnybigbones4955]

Holy crap. This is friggin' awesome. Inspired is exactly the word. Going from plastecine and tinfoil to that end product...

[@ROCCOTHEGREAT]

i have no interest in making this item but you always seem to make any topic interesting and enjoyable to watch. thanks broham!

[@DarkMorningFilms]

Much appreciated! Some good tips and tricks~ Always a pleasure watching your vids!

[@DampeS8N]

If you mold something that big again put some slats into the mold to keep it from stretching. You'll probably find that the 12x12 tiles don't match up perfectly like the master would have. You can probably make things better now by re-slotting it over the master and then affixing side slats and putting a backer board on the slats to hold the shape.

[@metajock]

Love the opening, we getting 7" of snow as I type this. Yeah... Seriously thanks for the general info, very good timing, I'm going to start doing some scifi doors.

[@ImaginationHobbies]

this was awesome! i loved that the video was so on theme hahaha

[@MiniTerrainDomain]

Have you considered using a sander to agitate the molds to get the bubbles to rise? You could take a simple small hand held sander, remove the sanding pad, and run it next to the mold on the surface of the table to vibrate at a high speed.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

If I was going to do more of this I’d go through the effort, but in reality if I was to do a lot of this I’d invest in a pressure pot and degassing chamber.

[@brigittedarcel1498]

While watching this I found it quite interesting. I have done something similar however I used Merlin Magic dental plaster to make the master. Mixing and pouring is much more forgiving but cleanup is probably more time consuming. I have a ton of plaster tiles and walls and they are very durable. They also don't move around on the playing service. For DMing here at home they are great. However, I soon learned that DMing on the road (which I do once a month) is not cool. These things in bulk are very heavy. That's one of the reasons I got involved with DM Scotty and Black Magic Craft. Transportation of similar terrain I can carry easily in one 4 story stack able plastic container. Resin is a good idea and I have used it a couple of times. I like the way you pour the resin. It is a lot cleaner than the way I learned previously. I don't know if I'll ever switch to resin but I do intend to follow this series and it does give me another option for down the road when resin makes more sense to use rather than dental plaster or foam (but I love the foam).

[@WAVP371]

Pretty guttsy move dude!!! I don't think I will be working with such large castings myself... I tend to build mostly model cars... Great work and thanks for sharing!!!

[@tonymitchell3985]

I'm not sur eif you have been told/ or know already. But, if you pour the silicone from a high point such as a ladder of standing over it while the mold is on the floor, you will get most of the air bubbles out of it. As long as you pour a long thin stream.You can also use Lego's for your walls, instead of cutting up foam board and wasting it..

[@dkbibi]

So do we send rescue or you endured? Lol cool vid! Slice the taun taun open if needs be. But it smells apparently 🤣

[@chadstaxxx]

Great idea for the intro haha, been a frosty one here in Alberta too. Very entertaining and thanks for all the hard work!!! Hope it turns out awesome

[@artranchero]

You got lucky I’m guessing the right ratio for the more formula. Congratulations!

[@tomroberts9132]

love everything you do sir!

[@cheneymoss3432]

Always entertaining to watch one of your builds. Not a Frostgrave player, but still interesting to see your projects. Not sure I will ever need to do much molding (I have messed around with it a bit), but never know. (By the way, I tried out your technique for flocking trees and getting it to hold well and I now have several very sturdy trees for my Legion forest terrain!)