High performance building system on the cheap!!!!

[@matlimotaung4motion]

I'm down south Africa and you won't believe that my construction company is actually stronger since I started watching your videos

[@danielorr2972]

Love your channel. Enjoy watching old school work being done with pride in craftsmanship. Homes being built today are far from the level of true craftsmanship. I retired from construction after 50 years in the trades. Your channel makes me feel like I am still on the job working with professionals. Keep up the great work you do. We are a dying breed in today's world of lack luster poor quality workmanship.

[@12345fowler]

Bondo it's people like you that make the internet so enjoyable. You are probably helping thousends of people having no clue about construction (city nerd ?) getting educated and helping them one day maybe talking to contractors etc. building their own little house. All this experience and wisdom of yours for free out there is amazing. I really would like to thank you for waht your are doing with these videos.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thank you for the nice comment

[@dpatrickcallahan4510]

Nothing like watching a master at his trade. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and knowledge. Then nursing a bad wing myself. Thanks again!

[@BillyLapTop]

Very impressive. Love your attention to details and explanations. You are a great teacher.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks I have improved in teaching as I got older. LOL

[@centexan]

As a carpenter, I never had a desire to learn the ins and outs of laying block or brick. But I can sure enjoy watching Bondo & Company doing it.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks 😀

[@JRS2248]

I did a foundation like that back in 1994 for a room addition that was 18'x25'. I did it the same way you did yours without the radiant heat. It's still in great shape, no cracking in the stucco exterior walls or inside walls. This brought back allot of memories; both my father and I were GC. You do great work and I love your videos.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks John. It is a nice way to build a stem wall if done proper.

[@VenturaIT]

@@bondobuilt386 I watched it on fast speed, did you fill the blocks with concrete? No rebar required? Have you ever done a drystack block wall? And no sealant or membrane on the outside of any of your block walls? I'm virtually learning about this stuff, haven't done it yet...

[@kurtiswaite7604]

At the time 56:32 in this video, I noticed the manufacturer of your boiler, Alternate Heating Systems in Harrisonville PA. I live just minutes from this place. I have recently subscribed to your channel as I found it very interesting and it brought back memories of my earlier days when I traveled the east coast on a directional drilling crew. I say this, because I watch how well your guys work together, joking around with each other and yet still getting the job done no matter what. We were the same way, no matter the weather or hot/ cold Temps, we made shit happen and we worked as a team. The way its should be. I throughly enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the good quality work that it seems like you are known for. You are my kinda people. God Bless.

[@bondobuilt386]

comments like this one keep me doing KZbin. thank you. 😊

[@Subgunman]

We have in floor heating that was added over concrete decking. Used a brand of foam from a German company called Rotex which has a matrix of short vertical supports that allow the PEX tubing to be snapped into. Above that was an additional 2” of a lightweight concrete with perlite aggregate as well as chopped fiberglass fibers and a latex additive. Helps in controlling expansion and contraction of the substrate above the tubing. Maximum temperature allowed to pass through the PEX pipes is 40° Celsius. There is a temperature regulator valve in the water circuit that controls the temperature into the system from the boiler. Once the floor heats up it’s very easy to maintain temperature in the home.

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome. I have used that style of insulation board. It was easy to install the tubing.

[@joehuinker7009]

Bondo it's nice watching someone with pride. I respect that.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Joe I appreciate that.

[@Nonsense62365]

Yee Haw 🤠 good old country boy music! Width da steel strings banjo! 🪕 Dats a knee slapper!

[@bondobuilt386]

LOL yup glad you liked it.

[@grumpyokay7108]

Thanks for the interesting video.didn't get the entire build,but enough to know what I want.

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome glad to help

[@rotironwerks]

Good video, helpful explanations. Brought back memories of previous builds in the early 1980's.

[@bondobuilt386]

Old school is definitely cheaper way sometimes.

[@t1259sw]

Nice job, never seen anybody lay the steel screens in the concrete as they poured. Great idea.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks we are always trying new things to improve.

[@jeffmarett321]

I live in north east Utah and I used the Rock Wool product on a 12X12X8 ft. ceiling shop I repair stringed instruments in. WONDERFUL!!! I have a window heater/AC unit and try to keep it around 60 deg in the winter and 75 deg in the summer. When spring and summer hit, it was the middle of June until I needed the A/C unit. I blew in about 18" of insulation in the attic.

[@ZAPATTUBE]

Mr. Bricklayer - that was a great explanation of proper methods. Thanks.

[@bondobuilt386]

Glad you enjoyed it friend.

[@toms4327]

Great video I learned a lot, I'm getting ready to do an outdoor kitchen and need to make me a foundation and this is easier than mixing and pouring 1 bucket at a time. Thanks for the better way to do my project.

[@billhill3526]

I had a 1970 f250 Ranger Camper Special back in high school in 1981 & 1982. Sold it in 1987. My favorite truck.

[@highimpact000]

Im in Ontario across the lake with fairly similar weather. Your videos are entertaining and educational at the same time. Learning loads and hoping to finally build my own hobby shop/pole barn(with a footing) this year. How you don't have 100k subscribers yet is beyond me...keep the videos coming! You do incredible work with attention to detail that is really nice to see and learn! Oh and that video of the shop you poured with the 10 or 12" curb around the perimeter without any saw cuts....that's the kinda stuff I hope to copy or at least ask the concrete guys I use to copy. Once again, awesome videos!

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks for the kind words sir. I am glad the videos are helpful to ya.

[@marcuscicero9587]

thanks for the start to finish vid. nice structure, extremely well built

[@markbartlett1251]

Great build, enjoyed the video, especially the pride you take in a job done right. Hats off to a craftsman.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Mark 😀

[@Bob.Jenkins]

Lovely, tidy construction - nice to see quality workmanship and I wish I saw more of it here in the UK.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Bob.

[@donaldhilton731]

Liked watching you lay block, went to BOCES in Mexico NY for masonry back in 81 and 82. Also enjoy and miss the scenery of upstate. Keep up the good work!

[@mss34698]

A Masterclass on cinder block building. Thank you for this. Excellent information.

[@brnmcc01]

Nothing wrong with Johns-Mansville, that company been around probably 100 years. The thing with insulation to remember is it's the air trapped in it that creates the insulation, so something that is heavier is not necessarily better. The heavier it is, the more heat can transfer thru the material. For example the best insulation you can get besides some kind of NASA type vacuum insulation (like thermos bottle, dewar flask stuff) is aerogel. That is a solid material that is one of the least dense solids you can get, but a 1" thick slab of aerogel you can literally heat with a propane torch on one side, and feel no heat coming thru it. Of course, it's extremely fragile and extremely expensive so it would not work at all in a wall. What makes good insulation is ability to bounce back like the Roksul, you don't want insulation batts that crush and not bounce back, overly compacted insulation doesn't work properly because you squeezed all the air out of it. Also the mineral wool is a pretty good conductor of heat, the important part is how well it traps the air in tiny pockets to stop convective losses. A well sealed 2x6 wall cavity is actually pretty good insulation, but what happens is since the interior of the cavity is hollow, hot air rises and cold air sinks and starts up a convective current inside that wall cavity and performs very poorly. The purpose of the batt is to try to completely stop that air from moving around and transferring heat from the interior side to the exterior side in the winter, and vice versa in the summer if air conditioned space. This is why spray foam or foam board is good R value per inch, once that foam cures, the little bubbles of air or gas entrained in it aren't going anywhere.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks and that makes sense.

[@jefferyfannin885]

For a start I love the music, I'm a big Blue Grass Fan

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome thanks

[@neilkratzer3182]

I've saw a little trick a couple of decades ago a pool guy did for concrete decks in back fill. He would put in several 4in pipes drilled underneath the deck up to the bottom of concrete. He pour the whole thing. The pipes acted as piers if it ever washed out underneath and he would hardly get a crack in any of his decks even after decades.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thats a good idea.

[@morgansword]

I have used just about every kind of insulation out there. I checked the temperatures of each wall and my own experience is (I live in alaska) really not much differences in wall temp protection as like a half of a degree is all it read with a good temperature meter. It being airy is almost to me easier to get into tighter spaces. My truck shop was eighty by one twenty deep for loaded truck and trailers to fit into it plus storage for their parts. Big rigs eat a lot of space and I just could not afford to say "I wish I had built bigger". I did have dividers in the building so heat was easier to maintain in bad weather. Same with my mill building but I used metal walls, and blew the fine sawdust into the walls.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks for the info. That probably saved a bunch using sawdust for the walls. Good idea 🖐

[@kipcarroll5644]

I'd insulate the ceiling first. It'll hold the heat in for you much better while you're working the wall insulation. You won't believe how much better !

[@bondobuilt386]

I had that insulation on order. It just got delivered yesterday.

[@GlenS123]

Really informative, your foam board details are awesome. Tamping very important as well, lots of hallow floors out there.

[@bondobuilt386]

Yes we fix them all the time. LOL thanks for the comment.

[@1924ab]

I know, I have one

[@patrickwallace5567]

First time viewer,very informative. Will definitely watch more,enjoyed the attention to details and instructions you provided.Thanks, Patrick

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Patrick

[@swamprat69er]

With two shoulders that are almost destroyed and two knees the same way, I AM making a concrete block wall the way that is comfortable for me...Watching you do it. lol Any Manuel Labour I need done, I hire it out. It isn't cheap, but my liver is in good shape because I don't eat any pain pills.

[@bondobuilt386]

Yes good not taking those pills. I suffer with the pain also.

[@Failure_Is_An_Option]

Knees can be fixed... until you destroy it.

[@mikeyb5612]

Love how you built it! Great video and tour

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks glad you liked it.

[@tomschmitt8561]

Mad skills…very intuitive at this point of his experience…

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Tom

[@brucemarmy8500]

This brother must be a turned out mason from some strict training 'cause everything he does is perfect eye hand coordination at highly repeatitive fashion. He's training us how to do the good work at speed. That's excellent.

[@stephengordon8968]

Very nice work ,attention to detail I like !

[@bondobuilt386]

Thank you

[@melvinfrost6514]

Just started watching your channel i think i watched about four videos today and I subscribed. I like your content.

[@jh-lp7cg]

Nice. I did something like you did with the foam board but what I did was put 2" of rockwool comfortboard on top of the sheathing and then did a rain screen before I put up the board and batten.

[@bondobuilt386]

I have done the same thing as you on a house I fixed and flipped 😀

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJKtlISviduhl5o This is the one I did the rain screen on.

[@jh-lp7cg]

@@bondobuilt386 Just watched. Looks pretty sweet. I have to do the inside walls and was going to do the 2nd interior wall but that tip about not lining up the studs is great. I am going to do that. Thanks.

[@shawnsmith4058]

Is that a strong build than poles ? Thanks looks great new to channel

[@FURST420]

You ainta kiddin when you said you spent a lot of money on that door !! I was blown away when I got the estimates back for my shop doors - ( two 12x14 & one 10x10 ) prices on EVERYTHING is completely outta control !

[@rogerredden1079]

Fun to watch the handicap at work , nice job done ...

[@bondobuilt386]

Handicap? LOL

[@richardjones3112]

Really interesting video.Thanks for all your hard work.

[@murmur3966]

Hello Hello From Canada!!! I'm on the warmest south west corner of the country here in Victoria, but I really love all the materials you use to maximize your thermal performance everywhere that you can. That was an excellent episode for content and for all your real world tips and demos of how to do things right the first time. I did construction before a car accident made it impossible and I think you sharing your experience may be inspiring to some young folks who aren't sure what to do with their lives to get into carpentry because you make it look interesting and challenging in just the right way. I'm a brand new subscriber so keep up the awesome content and I can't wait to check out more from your channel. Good luck in the new year and I hope you stay safe, healthy and as happy as you can be in all your future endeavors. 🤘😁☝

[@samramirez2160]

Great work and thanks showing the process, you're a good teacher.

[@cowboygeologist7772]

Great job! Thanks for sharing.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks

[@kylewilson8750]

That metal detail is trick love your content buddy keep it up!!! Shout out from alaska!!!

[@daveloderhose874]

Bondo your making me feel old when an old guy like you was born a year after I graduated High School. Cool project take a break go have a 🍺

[@johnpalmer9088]

you are a good block layer my father show me how to do the way you do it 50 years ago your build looks good

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks John. It was kinda hard because I had 3 torn rotator cuff muscles in my shoulder all summer. Had surgery in September for repair.

[@dunep6465]

Thanks Ron, for the "Old School" way of doing things with some of the newer products that are on the market. I was born and raised in the same area and that's how we used to do it although with fiberglass. Sure glad you showed the comparison between John Mansville and Rockwool. I'm building an ICF house with trusses and mineral wool insulation in the ceilings. First time for both and I'm almost 70 and been doing this kinda stuff since my teens. Your comparison seems like night and day and they both carry the same R value. Leads me to suspect the R value of JM. Corning also makes a similar product "Thermafiber". Before I buy, I'll definitely be doing a comparison myself and asking a lot more questions because of your work. Don't forget the air/vapor barrier on the inside. Great Job.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks bud. Ya I could not believe how much denser the Rockwool was. I hope my videos help you with your build sir. 😀

[@Nonsense62365]

Love ❤️ the 1970 army green truck. No computer! You can even run ethanol in the carburetor! Just in case the _____ hits the fan!

[@toddavis8603]

I love the way you lay block!

[@messageobliquespe100]

Great video. Nice to see hollow blocks being utilised - when filled with concrete / reinforcement they provide a good solid wall. Reminds me when I used to install foundations in South Africa on expansive / heaving soils. It was called a Boucell Raft. Step 1 was to excavate to a firm clay level. 2. Cast a 6” slab with mesh reinforcement & L bars to poke out of slab. When cured - build 3 courses hollow blocks on top ( say 27” height / 600mm) - in ‘Cells’ say 4’ squares (1200mm) - with reinforcement from LBars from below in the voids. Fill voids in blocks with concrete. 3. Fill in the ‘Cells’ with granular material. 4. Bend top of LBars sticking out to be within a 5-6” concrete slab that would be cast on top. (I think the slabs were only 4” top & bottom - but I would have at a minimum 5-6”). This basically provides a stiff box - tying bottom & top of the slabs together - & also providing stiff ribs in between. A very stiff foundation- suitable for low rise buildings. Not much on the internet about it unfortunately - but was used a lot. It’s a foundation that was created to deal with the problematic soils & easily constructed by workforce. Manual labour cheap in SA. With plant it’d be a breeze. ads.easyinfo.co.za/htm/custom/blignautf/productsservices.htm www.issmge.org/uploads/publications/89/99/6ANZ_028.pdf

[@lightning9279]

I like how you are using the dirt as a heat sink. I have been looking at how old chateaus in Europe are constructed. Turns out they used about a foot of dirt in the floors(1st,2nd,3rd floors etc). It acted as a small amount of insulation, but more so as a thermal mass that would hold heat. As long as they had those fireplaces choochin and putting heat into the stone and dirt, they weren't freezing their butts off like I thought.

[@bondobuilt386]

We built my buddy shop with foam board on bottom then like 8 inches of sand then poured the floor. Radiant heated concrete. His floor stays warm for days after his wood boiler goes out.

[@lightning9279]

@@bondobuilt386 Me thinks, you are on to something. When its my turn to build I think I will be doing that as well. A German company has an on slab insulation system that is nearly a foot thick of styrofoam on the bottom and at least eight inches on the sides(not sold in USA). What makes it different is the thickness of the slab. It is over a foot thick. Radiant is used in it as well. They are using the same concept of thermal mass but with concrete. Thanks for your videos.

[@dennisrcole]

* ** * * They also use that space for plumbing .

[@andreycham4797]

If he had put foam insulation outside of foundation all those blocks full of concrete would have worked as a heat sink

[@josephrottina1901]

Awesome building brother. Great work. 👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks bud.

[@gs8716]

Great job, Thank you for all the details....Gary NJ

[@Praterphil]

Good to see you back putting out videos again! I love that you do things right and in order. I heard you say you had a shoulder injury, I hate to say I know what you mean.... I go in for a full shoulder replacement Feb 27th, can't wait! I've been pouring mud for over 40 years and this will be my last season, I'll miss the social aspect & the work. I'll have you, though!

[@bondobuilt386]

Good luck with your shoulder bud. They take a long time to heal. 40 years of slinging mud is why you need a new shoulder. Thanks for the comment. keep watching buddy. 😀

[@stevelambert7496]

Very nice job thanks for sharing

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks 😀

[@johnkranz4004]

Really nice job on the building

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks John

[@MateiFM]

Nice shot of Rotor watering the wheels there 😆

[@bondobuilt386]

He had to pee. LOL

[@dustyjoe8071]

thanks for the info well done great show easy to watch

[@AndyFromm]

The Green Machine looks great

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Andy

[@elbuggo]

Excellent project! But I think you need some moisture in the soil to get it compacted properly. Not too much moisture, but not too little either.

[@bjkjoseph]

I live in the more psychotic section of New York, I like your videos I like that wood boiler

[@mattderr1013]

Great video Ron

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Matt

[@jackkil1508]

Very informative. Thank you.

[@bondobuilt386]

Glad you liked it.

[@Drillmechanic]

Great master class from old school block layer 👍

[@brnmcc01]

To make an even higher performance wall, you can try using a 2x6 top and bottom plate, then using standard 2x4's on 16" centers, but alternate and stagger them offset by 8". That eliminates the contact point thru the studs on the outer and inner sides of the top and bottom plates. The disadvantage is it takes more time to frame up, and the insulation gets kind of pinched unless you get special thinner batts.

[@bondobuilt386]

I have done that kinda as a retrofit double wall and blown it with cellulose in my rental property.

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5_co2Wunp6Cqq8si=UQc7OWYyB0avt3Dl

[@brnmcc01]

@@bondobuilt386 Nice, I'll watch that video

[@luciaconk]

Great video from a great guy!

[@johnnyp4886]

beautiful job! love the rockwool, I've found that it cuts real nice with my old electric fillet knife

[@Sea-cucumber1151]

And never burns!

[@williamhanna5224]

Awesome video Great work!

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks William

[@daroldfickey2715]

That’s a good idea to prevent some thermal bridging. I’m going to something similar to your idea but I’m going to try to reduce the thermal bridging by 90%.

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome. Throw some 1" insulation board over the entire wall.

[@MrMac5150]

VERY SMART MAN. Learning a lot.

[@raybennett3692]

Hi Bondo my first time on your channel you have a very easy way of telling people how to do things gives new builders the confidence to try things like this no BS just great advice here in the uk it would take at least 3 months to get plans passed by the local council the inspections at every stage of the build from digging the footings the concrete block work right up to the roof if any stage is not correct in every detail you go back and start that stage again i watch a few channels from the usa and no one talks about local council permission if that's the case it's how it should be in the usa it seems if you own the property it's yours to do what you want I have subscribed so will see more of your output regards Ray Bennett

[@firesurfer]

It depends strongly on how far you are from the nearest town and the state you're in. Bigger the town, the bigger the rules.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks for watching Ray. We do not have as strict of rules as you in the areas that we build in.

[@dennismartin3562]

In the States, we have a “zoning board”, probably similar to your council. They give a planning code to keep the “strip clubs away from the elementary schools” so to speak. If your property is included into the “Incorporated” area of the town, meaning close in enough to be zoned, most often you will be required to meet a “national building code”. Anything outside of the incorporated area needs to pay a building permit fee, submit a drawing with the basic specs and the license numbers of the Electrical, HVAC and Plumbing contractors. An inspector will review the details of the project to be sure you’re building is to a “good enough to sell” standard and the Licensed contractor or the “certified DIY” if you have the knowledge to pass the test is responsible to turn in the signed permit for that portion of the job. Electrical, plumbing,HVAC… etc. still need to pass a perk test and site layout, so your septic doesn’t mix with the well water. Building in an unincorporated area is much less intrusive for sure, but it’s your money and your family’s safety that shoddy work would be at risk. Then it becomes a risk vs. need situation. Hope this helps you better understand the differences in the States..

[@bondobuilt386]

@@dennismartin3562 Thanks for explaining that to the viewers bud. 👍

[@AndyFromm]

When they built my house in the 80's, they didn't compact the fill around the foundation good enough. The concrete driveway to the garage dropped 4" or so cracking it. It also pulled the phone line conduit pulled off the side of the house. You'll like that compact track loader. They are one of the only ones I know of that the door goes up and will operate like that.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Andy. Ya I bought the Kubota because of that door setup and a few other reasons. We fix so many floors where the compaction was not done proper.

[@benjaminreinhardt259]

Do you all have termites up that way? Down here in NC, termites are a real concern. Your foam butting up against your sill plate behind sheet metal is a termite's dream.

[@bondobuilt386]

No termites here in upstate New York.

[@2olvets443]

Would be interesting to see fire testing between the rock wool and the mineral wool. I’ve seen a video of a fire official testing (showing) different insulations in test walls where rock wool and fiberglass did well.

[@bondobuilt386]

Yes so would I like to see that.

[@scooterp7009]

The rock wool and the mineral wool meet the same fire resistance standards.

[@2olvets443]

@@scooterp7009 source?

[@fillowtree5505]

Nice job. The vids lately have been showcasing your other talents.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks I been trying to mix it up.

[@LTDan-pk3mx]

Dude.. Strong Work!! Ceiling and Walls are Flat & straight! Now for my three dollar $ question? I am about to tear off vinyl siding,(hail damaged) house and shop and i want to put insulation on the OSB under house wrap. I am torn on the Rock or stone wool boards or the poly iso boards 1-1/2 to 2 inch. Like y'all its an effort to keep heat in and cool in summer.. I would tape all my joints on the house wrap and iso and all that.. Thanks again ahead of time L.T. Dan from ky, not as cold a y'll but its 21 this morning just sayin..

[@chetmyers7041]

1:10 PIGMENT makes the "name product" darker. The product that bounces back might be denser, but that means more thermal bridging. Isn't it the "dead air" that provides the R value? For comparison, cut a square foot of each, and weigh on a gram scale. The is a video here on KZbin that shows spun glass insulation manufacturing plant. Two products come out of plant, only ONE is sprayed with PINK STUFF dye.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks for the info

[@95lifted]

I really like the idea of using the foam board between purlins on the exterior Bondo. You did not say if you were going to run a vappr barrier maybe 4 mil? on the inside stapled to the interior studs before putting your interior wall finish on? i guess that might be assumed.. thanks! nice work!!!!

[@joepaulv]

Great video! Very informative and well done 👍

[@soniclab-cnc]

I prefer the Roxul. It can be cut very easily and it can conform well. It has superior sound damping than other products if that is a factor. I also use the Safe n Sound between walls for its superior sound properties.

[@bondobuilt386]

Yes it is a good product.

[@marcuscicero9587]

a buddy of mine got a wood forced air unit and I am amazed at the complete burn of that unit. 3 ft. logs fit in it as big a rounds as you want and it all turns to ash

[@terrylutke]

great video & commentary, thanks!

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Terry

[@RJM1011]

Looks very good well done. 😊👍

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Richard.

[@mehmet284]

great video bondo

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks 😀

[@robertmccully2792]

Good job, anyone can pay to have the best, but few can do it themselves and settle for less. Less is more if you do not have a huge debt.

[@darrelwilson2875]

Really nice info. Thank you!

[@brandons9398]

Real nice work!

[@the_truck_farmer]

I like the wall system you used. Wish the video would've detailed the wall construction a little better...How thick are the hemlock siding boards? Trying to figure out what wood species would be comparably plentiful, durable, and inexpensive here in WI...

[@bondobuilt386]

1" thick hemlock we used for siding.

[@the_truck_farmer]

@@bondobuilt386 is hemlock pest resistant? I see wood sided houses all the time with pine squirrel and wood pecker damage. I like the idea of using something full length like boards or barn steel for siding to avoid sheeting the walls with osb.

[@jvin248]

Insulation is all about trapping as much air as possible. Roxul's density is exceptionally good for noise reduction panels but that mansfield is giving you a better R-value.

[@fredflickinger643]

Hello Bondo, nice solid build! As I've been watching many passive house videos I did notice that although you paid great attention to the subterranean and wall parts of the build I didn't hear any mention of an air boundary. I guess I have to watch and see how you air seal between the roof and the wall system.

[@tomwinkelman8478]

Hello from Local #633, Mpls, Mn.

[@Aaron_Peters]

I can't tell, but did you put poly down over the final dirt layer, and then put the wire mesh with infloor heat tubing tied to the wire mesh? From the video at 36:22, I can't tell if that is poly or foam board. I'm looking to build this summer, and I also want to put in a dirt heat sink, but all of the videos that I can find on it are about 11 years old. It seems it was popular back in 2009 - 2011, but then nothing since. Thanks!

[@bondobuilt386]

Hi. Yes I put a 6 mill polly down under the foam board then some dirt on top of the foam then wire mesh then the tubing tied to wire. As we poured we threw another layer of wire mesh over the tubing as well.

[@Nonsense62365]

Did you use 2” EPS foam or 2” Polyiso on the exterior walls of your leanto addition. I bought (21) 1” 4x8 atlas polyiso R - 6.5, to add on to old 2x4’s. On the addition to my house I removed the 50-60 year old cedar siding and the 7/16” fiberboard that was nailed onto the studs! Replaced it with and 7/16 x 4x8 Zip Sheating! I live in Central Utah, it’s now too cold to do any work until May! it’s way too cold now! I also bought new nail on fin JeldWin windows. And installing 1 7/16 x 1 1/2 window bucks to extend out my windows. I’m also going to attach 7/16 x 3” x 8’ batons that’ll be screwed into the studs. This will create an air barrier from the back of the new wood siding to the polyiso panels. To allow the back of the wood siding to air out when it gets wet. I also installed new 14.5” x 3.5” R-15 Mineral Wool bats in the existing wall cavities which is a lot better than old crappy fiberglass insulation that was not installed properly!

[@richardjohnson4222]

Can you do a video on how you setup the radiant heater system, pumps, check valves, etc. I did a radiant system but have not recieved an explanation on system setup that I’m feeling confident in.

[@bondobuilt386]

I do not usually put the boilers /water heaters in as we are so busy doing concrete. I have installed my own stuff though.

[@richardjohnson4222]

@@bondobuilt386 trying learn proper valves, check valves location, pumps and everything Needed. Can you suggest any good source to use for info or look to. Not typical in our area so most plumbers don’t want mess with or ones that seem to know want arm & leg

[@michaeleaston547]

Good job 👍. Thank you.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks for the comment

[@drunkingsailor2359]

Very nice bumpside brother

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks its a work in progress. 😀

[@ern48]

Absolutely beautiful job laying the block, but I have to ask where was the rebar in the walls did I miss it?

[@dr123hall]

Stephenc mentioned Borax for insect control, well, this is also a good fire retardant for wood. Mix by cup 1:3 Borax to Boric acid, to hot to boiling gallon water and first mix pints to adjust consistency for your application (paint on or spray). The solution will have some particulate but the liquid is good to go if you can soak paper, dry it and test.

[@20havenfun08]

Great job:)

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks

[@Ebbrush3]

nice ...put pex in that wall for compressed air outlets at every receptacle

[@bondobuilt386]

Good idea.