Luthier Quick Tip 3: How to Decide On A Guitar Finish

[@maelofit]

Opened up my own little guitar workshop a few months ago, these videos have been very informative, fun and helpful. There's so much to guitar making and customs, I love brushing up on some of the details, general knowledge and techniques. Thank you Highline.

[@henrypagan6657]

I have been clearing guitars for over 30 years. I use all different types of clears my favorite is polyester sealer clear gives it a amazing sounds and lasted longer. Thanks for the video

[@joepasco1420]

My favorite finish is amber Shellac from a spray can. Bullseye! After 2 years of playing a blues style guitar looks like it been played for 30 years. Rapid relic- ing without out phoney damage. Real play wear.

[@mulekickhandmadeguitars8465]

Always learn from your videos. On my cigar box guitar necks I only use the Watco Danish Oil natural finish. Down the road, you can always remedy any dings, scratches, or wear with a quick Danish Oil wipe-down.

[@oktbas9197]

About a year ago l started building a Baglama/Saz from scratch( it's a traditional instrument ) in my spare times. I have been searching right finishing products here where l live. Back at home th finishing they're using l can find it here. So, after so many videos l watched here on KZbin, your video was a JACKPOT with the info l been searching for. I just ordered it online & now waiting for it to be delivered. I can't wait to try the finishing product. I'm really appreciated and thanking you. Keep up the good work.

[@worshipgeek]

Looking forward to my first build with Crystalac. Planning to use a Preval system to apply it.

[@crystalacofficial]

Awesome! Let us know if we can be any help.

[@johnnypk1963]

The CrystaLac Company Brite Tone is my fav clear coat. No doubt. Along w your mighty fine Crab coat for my front door lol.

[@DefenderTIM]

Timely vid, thanks! I just completed a refinish on an old Peavey Raptor using Duplicolor acrylic lacquer, and I'm not thrilled with the clear. It's level and glossy, but still fairly soft after several weeks. I worked really hard to apply it correctly, so I'm writing it off as unusable under my conditions and moving on to something else. My son's SG-style kit is in process, and I definitely want a better topcoat when it reaches that stage. I'm pretty much narrowed down to either Crystalac or a 2K urethane product. I've used a rattle-can variant with some success (learned a few things for sure), and now I think I might be able to do a nice spray finish with my HVLP. I've got to think that either would certainly would be more durable than this acrylic lacquer, with the additional bonus of getting to level and polish much sooner.

[@pulankaoutdoordesign]

As always....a nice and informative vid. It nice to see you take the time to explain things in a relaxed way and with good building-up of information. Thanx and keep it going. Ronald

[@paulhendershott667]

Another awesome video! I'm going to now go buy a house with a big workshop, invest in $25,000 in woodworking tools, and build a dozen guitars so I can try out all the finishing products you just mentioned! I'm honestly "that" intrigued to experiment with these finishes now - a tribute to your always-interesting videos! Keep 'em coming!! Tx! 😎👍

[@HighlineGuitars]

That is awesome!

[@andrewjeffries8721]

Thank you sir for the heads up about finish choices for an axe that I am building!

[@short6691]

Thanks for this! A great review. I have started using “I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer” and made a ukulele sized tanning booth for curing. Very happy with it and the results! My ukulele shop is in the basement beneath my home so the more potent vapors of the harder Solarez product takes it off the table.

[@feanor70115]

Does yours still feel slightly tacky when cured? I've been working on a body for much too long trying to get ICBINL to act like a finish coat but it just doesn't dry hard enough. Not after curing for 25 minutes with a less-than-hair-thin coat.

[@short6691]

feanor70115 I have applied many coats of ICBINL with a moist make-up sponge. Then the object is cured in the booth with LED UV bulbs (385nm) then sanded between.the coats. I judge the cure complete by the white powder sanding produces. I have not tried buffing to a gloss. After sanding with 2000 grit I have applied wax and am happy with the satin finish that hand buffing the wax produces. Before sanding the cured glossy surface it does feel almost wet. But the sanding shows it is not. If I went to wax without sanding the wet might go away, but there are enough bumps I generally need to sand.

[@feanor70115]

@@short6691 Thanks for the info. At this point I've pretty much decided to just wait for some Crystallac for a finish coat. I've got a decent semi-gloss but it's too thin to buff (I've tried and it just dulls the finish and burns through it) and I just need a way to put a harder finish on it without a booth or a buffing machine.

[@short6691]

feanor70115 Sounds like you have a good path forward. Best wishes!

[@johnperiard9594]

Thank you for the information. WOuld have enjoyed examples.

[@danparsons6566]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. FYI, if there is a Walmart near you, they carry Tru Oil. Also, if you leave the foil on the opening, use two small holes to dispense the product, then store upside down I have extended the shelf life well over a year. One other snippet, when applying the last coat or two a few drops of mineral spirits will thin the product down and produce a surprisingly deep shine. And if you just don't like Tru Oil, well, never mind! Thanks again for sharing.

[@HighlineGuitars]

The Walmarts in my area don't sell it. No one in my neck of the woods sells it. I have to order it and since I can get the same effect faster and cheaper with Z-Poxy, which is available locally at several hobby stores, that's what I will continue to use.

[@scottakam]

Thanks for the great info. I definitely struggle the most with finishing. I might give the CrystaLac a try fro my next build. I've used wipe-on poly a couple of times. It works pretty well but scratches fairly easily.

[@randymelnychuk5131]

All area is freaking amazing!

[@bjornodijk9797]

Hey man, your tutorials are like super good and i havent got the whole picture of setting up a guitar yet. Could you maybe make a video on perfectly setting up your guitar?

[@gilsolomon]

Awesome video!!!! Thank you Chris!

[@chazmann2520]

Fantastic and informative video! You answered questions I didn’t know I had! Thank you!

[@briw4647]

i really like an oil finish, especially on the neck. on the body, for a smooth shine i apply a wipe on poly

[@Joe-mz6dc]

Excellent channel. Thank you so much for your great information.

[@williamlee6358]

great stuff thank you

[@paxonearth]

Great info. Thanks.

[@davidbass9846]

@Highline Guitars I’m a hobbiest on my fourth guitar project. My current project is the first one where I am doing a clear-coat over paint. I have never level sanded or buffed a guitar. On this project I don’t need to be bullet-proof. Based on the video, I would like to try the I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer. Here’s my question: On my current project, I have been doing image transfers using acrylic medium, and painting on top of that with acrylic paint. The guitar is coming out really cool, but due to the transfers and the acrylic paint, there quite a few places where the surface is not smooth. Ultimately, I would like to have a clear-coat that is thick enough to that I can get a smooth outer surface with but without sand through the clear-coat when I am level sanding. Would I need to worry about that with the I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer product? Can you do multiple coats of the I Can’t Believe it’s not Lacquer? If so do you need to level sand and buff between coats? Any help is very much appreciated…

[@HighlineGuitars]

ICBINL is 100% solids so each coat cures thick. I've done multiple coats no problem and that includes level sanding with 400 grit between coats.

[@davidbass9846]

Thank you! Super helpful…

[@mckeeguitarsandguns]

I build high acoustics and electrics. Nitrocellulose lacquer is great for tone if build it thin about .004" thick plus it looks great. Downside it is time consuming.

[@HighlineGuitars]

For me, the downside to nitrocellulose is the toxic and flammable fumes.

[@WillMaskellTaylor]

This was super useful, thanks!

[@HighlineGuitars]

You're welcome!

[@mattgwardesq]

I could be mistaken, but I don't think you answered the question of which finish you prefer over a stained wood body. Could you shed some light on that question for me? Thanks so much.

[@HighlineGuitars]

These days, I like Centurion 1800 Water-Based 2K Polyurethane. However, a lot depends on the outcome I'm after. I also like to use Danish oil if I want to keep the look and feel of the wood grain.

[@bernhardnizynski4403]

Very informative!

[@anthonysclafani3963]

+Highline Guitars do you have any experience with minwax water-based wipe on poly? Do you recommend it? Looking for something water based and durable

[@HighlineGuitars]

It's okay. A bit tricky to apply because it raises the grain. That means you have to lightly scuff sand between coats to remove the raised grain and get a good bond. Also, it's not going to be as durable as a spray on water-based polyurethane like Crystalac Brite Tone or especially Centurion 2K water-based polyurethane.

[@anthonysclafani3963]

@@HighlineGuitars would you recommend varathane’s water based wipe on over minwax’s? Thanks for your help, we really appreciate how you share your experience with us so we can learn

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@anthonysclafani3963 I've never tried Varathane's product.

[@viberge]

Thanks for the video. So what about shellac?

[@flppr1]

Subscribed. I have a maple neck and fretboard ordered with matte finish. I'd like to add some stripes with a propane torch. Do I need to remove the matte finish first? Thx!

[@MikeDGuitar]

Yeah, Watco Danish Oil is great to work with! I got a free table from someone, took off the damaged veneer and applied some Danish Oil to it. I have a novice question regarding coating guitars. I was going to clear coat the headstock of my acoustic guitar with Rust-oleum 2X Semi-Gloss Clear, but I never. It comes in a spray can. Can you use that type of product for a gloss on a guitar?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I have never used it, so I can't say for sure. I would definitely test it on scrap first. Also, be aware that whatever you're spraying over could react with the clear.

[@MikeDGuitar]

That's a good point; I never thought about the possibility of there being a reaction. I had a bottle of it, and I gave it to someone who used it on signs for a glossy look. It doesn't seem to be a product to use on a finished guitar. @@HighlineGuitars

[@CycleFab]

Really good video! Answered my questions and got to the point. Thanks! What's the best chemical strip for getting the factory finish off of a cheap Epiphone PR-150?

[@robertcanedo7607]

I have an old but good Ventura acoustic, and want to remove the original stain/sealer; and stain it a lighter color. Any advice on which stain to use; and also, will I achieve a richer intonation with a particular satin. Thanks!

[@HighlineGuitars]

The only advice I can give you is to test on scrap. If I recommend a specific stain, you may not like it.

[@ChrisAlia123shredmadinsanity]

You know I already subscribed.. Still scared to take the leap on a certain color and start the process! LOL

[@HighlineGuitars]

Test on scrap or be satisfied with what you get.

[@ChrisAlia123shredmadinsanity]

@@HighlineGuitars That's what I'm doing today..Testing out different stains. Thanks Chris! Have a great day!

[@stringtheoryx]

Chris, Do you use Solarez ICBINL on necks? Any problems with durability?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I don’t, but if you want a glossy finish, you certainly could. I think it’s slightly more durable than nitrocellulose lacquer.

[@joestriker2100]

Awesome tips. I've been working on a guitar for a friend. Doing a distressed brown look, but he doesn't want any gloss. he wants a more matte or satin finish. I like the Solarez products. What would you recommend that would have the strength of the polyester but with no gloss?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Solarez products are intended for high gloss finishes. The only way to get polyester durability is to use polyester. A good alternative is 2k polyurethane. In fact, there are a lot of high tech water-based 2K polyurethanes on the market now. Centurion, Envirolac, Renner, and Milesi make them in matte to gloss sheens. Be forewarned, they require a catalyst to achieve maximum durability and they aren't cheap.

[@paulleate5768]

great video chris,wondered if you could advise me, can spray cellulose over the z epoxy? many thanks in advance, paul uk

[@HighlineGuitars]

I don't know. I have never tried it and probably never will as I dislike nitrocellulose.

[@TeddyBullard]

@highline guitars , great video , sir. I have a question. I want to strip my Gretsch and my P-Bass down to just the bare wood. I don't care about "gloss" "shine" or aesthetic appeal, I just want to seal/coat the body to protect it, that's all. What product do you recommend for this? And any info about application , curing etc would be greatly appreciated! Subscribed to your channel! Thank you!

[@HighlineGuitars]

The easiest way is to use boiled linseed oil or tung oil. If you want a little more protection a wipe on polyurethane or Danish oil works great.

[@StrixyN]

Not familiar with Z-Poxy. You say it has "a slight amber tint to it" and I have to ask, amber in an "antique" lacquer kind of way by any chance? That could be really appropriate for a very subtle relic outcome I have been trying to figure out for sometime. Note: I'm not talking about the usual, "the tour bus driver ran it over, multiple times" type relic jobs that are all the rage it seems, but rather a certain "patina" (if we can we call it that) in some older lacquered instruments that I would like to be able to solve for. I think I can handle the "crackle", but nailing that color (discolor) with a gloss finish is the prize.

[@HighlineGuitars]

If varies from bottle to bottle.

[@michaelsinn16]

I have a question. I have a Epiphone Les Paul that I just got. It has a factory (dull) satin finish on the body. I am putting on transparent decals on it. To keep the stickers permanently on the guitar and to give the guitar a kind of shiny finish on top of the stickers, what would I use on it? How long til the guitar body is fully dry and able to out the hardware back in it? Thank you.

[@HighlineGuitars]

I would bury the stickers in Crystalac Brite Tone clear coat. 10 to 15 coats each applied a few hours apart will give you enough thickness to level sand smooth and buff to a high gloss shine.

[@BobBob-ko6le]

Thanks for all the tips over the years. I think you’re the most helpful luthier channel on there. Have you ever tried Royal-Lac for a shellac like natural finish with polyester strength? I’m wondering how you feel about that stuff. Was planning on using that for my first build shortly to get a garnet shellac look that’s more durable than a French polish. Thanks again for all the videos!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Royal-Lac is too toxic and too flammable for me to consider. The SDS is 14 pages!

[@BobBob-ko6le]

Highline Guitars wow, that’s good to know. Glad I asked. Sound like it’ll be Solarez’s I can’t believe it’s not lacquer for me then. Thanks again for the help!

[@wulfraven2233]

Just a tip: brite tone will not stick on solvent or oil based based paint schemes while level sanding. Chris is right you need to stay solvent with solvent and water base with water base products. Testing is essential.

[@HighlineGuitars]

I’ve never had a problem with adhesion between Brite Tone and solvent/oil based paint. Just make sure it’s fully cured before you clear coat.

[@josebravo5125]

I'm thinking of stripping the top polyurethane coat on my classical Cordoba c4 ce and using an oil based finish on it. Is it a bad idea to just do the top and leave the back and sides poly? I have a hunch that it may cause cracking, especially in a humid environment.

[@thecanadianflatpicker]

What is the best finish for a guitar neck? A smooth satin feel for a fast neck ?

[@HighlineGuitars]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4rIlqGMe8SmmJI

[@juliepoulos83]

Since my cherry first Tacoma has peeled all around the sides and I haven't found anyone to take it on, I'm considering trying to do it myself. I have refinished some furniture, not much but ...this is a really scary project!

[@MascarasMil]

I’ve got a roasted swamp ash strat body. I love the roasted color and existing wood grain. What would you recommend for a protective finish?

[@michealjoseph9943]

What is the best finish for achieving the best tone? That is my main objective. I just bought a Martin that does not have a finished top and the tone is amazing! I'd like to finish it, but want to maintain or enhance the already great tone. Thanks for your experienced insight!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Since I concentrate on electric guitars, the finish doesn't matter. However, on acoustics, the thinner, the better. A thin coat of Solarez I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer or Crytalac Brite Tone are my choices.

[@michealjoseph9943]

@@HighlineGuitars Thank you for the insight! One more question though if I may, since I'm okay with a satin finish, would an oil finish be the best for acoustic tone?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@michealjoseph9943 that would be the best for resonance, just be aware that oil won’t offer ding and scratch protection.

[@donald-parker]

I hate gloss finishes. I'm leaning towards the boiled linseed oil. But if I want a bit of tint, would you recommend stain first and then apply the boiled linseed oil over top, or mix some sort of transparent pigment into the linseed oil?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I use Windsor Newton artist oil paints to tint the BLO.

[@trgarrett1]

I wish i could talk to you about a project i have and discuss a clear for it

[@gilsolomon]

Hey Chris, Did you by chance try to coat a neck with Brite Tone?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I have. However, I prefer the feel of an oil finish.

[@bassplayer1016]

Hey I wanted to know what kind of coat would be best to use on my bass guitar that I have signed with sharpie

[@HighlineGuitars]

Any clear coat designed for wood (nitrocellulose, polyurethane, acrylic, polyester) should work.

[@mwarnholtz]

If you want a stained wood natural finish do you still need to clear coat it for a final finish?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Not if you don't want to.

[@rongarcia0118]

I am looking for a clear coat gloss product that will not alter the color of TransTint Aqua Dye. I tested Varathane Polyurethane and it yellowed the blue and turned it green. Is there a clear that is truly clear? Thanks.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Crystalac Brite Tone.

[@rongarcia0118]

@@HighlineGuitars Thank you!

[@craigparse1439]

Have you ever worked with melamine lacquer? I know it's sometimes used in wood turning (lathe), but I have seen it used on a guitar in one video.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Never have. I'll check it out. Thanks!

[@briancote3935]

Have been trying out "I can't believe it's not lacquer " on rosewood. I use as a sealer and a cover finish. My rosewood finish is not curing as expected. Do you have any pointers for using this product on rosewood?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Rosewood contains oils which can inhibit any type of finish. I believe Solarez sells a sealer specifically for oily woods, but I'm not sure and their website is currently down for maintenance. One thing you can try is to wipe the wood with acetone. As soon as it flashes off, apply the Solarez ICBINL.

[@BryanTrotter-op2dx]

Wish you didn't have more bunch together so we could have seen each product but appreciate the information

[@pigjubby1]

Could I use Crystalac matted finish on Zpoxy or have you found Zpoxy to be sufficient for the top coat? How do you use Zpoxy on maple? Would I just apply multiple coats of Zpoxy to build a finish? Does Zpoxy need sanding in between coats? Thank you.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Z Poxy works great as a top coat. However, if you want a matte sheen, you'll have to use a top coat that is formulated to dry with a matte sheen. Crystalac Brite Tone Matte would be a good choice. You can also apply Z Poxy to Maple the same way you would any other wood and yes, you'll need to scuff sand between coats to ensure proper adhesion.

[@pigjubby1]

@@HighlineGuitars If I apply Zpoxy to bare mahogany/maple, I would scuff it before sealer? Would I use Crystalac Sanding Sealer or just scuff the Zpoxy and apply Crystalac Matte finish?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@pigjubby1 No need for the sealer. Just scuff the Z Poxy and spray your Brite Tone matte.

[@angusmackay7281]

Really helpful video, Chris, thanks. I use Nitro because I relic my guitars, but I'm curious to try the Crystalac especially for non relic jobs. I take it you can paint it over acrylics and the like?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Yes.

[@robertbailey3024]

I have removed the original polyurethane finish off the face of my spruce top acoustic guitar. I'm wanting to give it an antique look (without the distressed marks, etc.) What sort of finishing process is ideal for that?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I would go with a natural tint Danish oil. Hand rubbed with 5-8 coats.

[@frankieu2598]

How many coats of zpoxy do you recommend? I have a mahogany body that is finely sanded from a stewmac kit and I’ve never done a guitar before. Plenty of experience staining pine doors and moulding in my house couple decades ago followed up with water base satin polyurethane, but that’s it. Still a novice. Still on the fence….

[@HighlineGuitars]

Every situation will be different, but no more than 3 coats should be sufficient.

[@blokemartin4825]

Qucik question for you, hopefully you see it and can respond. Im going to use the watco danish oil on an acoustic guitar. After i apply the finish, do i need anything else ontop of it for example a clear coat, poly, or lacquer?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Only if you want an additional level of scratch and ding protection that Danish oil can't provide. Keep in mind that there are some people who think that clear coating an acoustic guitar will diminish its resonance.

[@stringtheoryx]

This is helpful. Do you still use Crystalac? If not, what type of gloss top coat are you using now?

[@p.t.itroyharrell5846]

I have question sir. My gibson flying v has a nitro finish that is like an ivory white. Is it possible to prep the nitro finish already on the guitar and use it as a base coat the spray my paint over that or should completly strip my guitar down to the wood? Also the are 2 dings in the paint job so what would I use to fill if I didn't have to strip down to bare wood?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I would strip to the bare wood only because of the adhesion problems that can happen when applying paint over old nitro. The only way to know for sure if you can use the nitro as a base coat is to test with the paint you plan to use. As for the dings, you could try to steam them out with a wet paper towel and a hot soldering iron. If they are too deep for that to work, you could fill them by applying a paste wood filler. Build up the layers of filler until it's proud of the surface and then sand it smooth.

[@getenlightened]

Have you used an automotive style clear coat product, with separate hardener, like Omni? Thoughts on something like that, compared to Crystalac and Solarez?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Yes, I have and they are incredibly durable. However, they are also super toxic as the hardeners contain isocyanate. In Europe, they have just started to restrict the amount of isocyanates in these hardeners. The U.S. will eventually follow. Will that spell the end for 2K Polyurethane?

[@LaPiernaDeMiAbuela]

Great video. Very informative. I have a question: is Watco Danish Oil compatible with dyes or stains? I mean, can it be applied over a stained body or top (like a hand rubbed burst)?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Watco Danish Oil is already tinted.

[@LaPiernaDeMiAbuela]

@@HighlineGuitars I mean the "natural" one, apparently it is clear(ish).

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@LaPiernaDeMiAbuela It should work. Test first on scrap.

[@LaPiernaDeMiAbuela]

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks!

[@nolancrusat1127]

I noticed you’re based out of Highlands Ranch. I live in Parker and am new to luthiery. Getting a flawless finish on anything I’ve ever built has been the bane of my existence. Do you offer any in person instruction on guitar finishing?

[@HighlineGuitars]

My shop is not open to the public and I don't offer in person instruction.

[@loneliboy1234]

Can I use teak oil on the neck or body of my guitar? Iget mixed information about this

[@HighlineGuitars]

I've used it in the past and it worked fine for me. It's great for dense hardwoods and offers UV protection as well as excellent moisture resistance. Plus it make the wood look dynamite.

[@JohnSekora-nj8bq]

Learned a lot from your videos. I built a guitar from a soft okoume. Thinking of Solarez Polyester for max hardness. Will it lift the black analine dye and do I need filler or sealer underneath. The body doesn't have a lot of grain. Also would soaking the body with West exopy then use the less volatile Solarez be just as good?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I have no idea. you'll have to test on scrap.

[@sergioderderian16]

Thanks for sharing this precious know how!!! Do you think I could use a nitro finish on a sitka acoustic top that is sunburst stained with SM color tone without making a mess?? Thanks again....

[@skywardstargaze1768]

If I wanted to paint my guitar body with acrylic (water-based) paint, is there a finish/topcoat I could apply that would take less than the standard 30 days to cure? I don’t need a mirror or high-gloss sheen, satin is fine. My only real stipulation is that oil-based finishes would screw the paint job up and I’d rather not have to sand the entire thing down and start again.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Centurion Water-Based 2k Polyurethane.

[@macguitars]

Have you tried using target coatings EM6000. Another Low VOC and Oder waterborne. Nitro type burn in. Just curious.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Yes, I have used it. It works well, but I felt it was a bit soft.

[@macguitars]

@@HighlineGuitars I feel the same, thanks for the response

[@darioduarte319]

Brite tone is good stuff. I just started using it, thanks to you, and love it. Amazing results! Thank you You didn’t mention the strength level of Z poxy. How durable is it?

[@HighlineGuitars]

It's basically an epoxy so it slots in between nitrocellulose and polyester.

[@davidcamilli170]

Thanks!! One question, wich is the best if I would like to have a light blue (aniline dye) maple top with high gloss clear coat? The most easy to work (faster to cure)?

[@HighlineGuitars]

My current favorite wasn't shown in this older video. These days, I'm loving Centurion water-based 2K polyurethane for my clear coats.

[@BenjaminFranceMusic]

Thanks Chris! Have you done a video on what you use to spray Crystalac?

[@HighlineGuitars]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIeUppaMdrSdoas

[@BenjaminFranceMusic]

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks Chris! :)

[@RollinLeonard]

invaluable information. thank you so much for explaining your rational behind these decisions. it makes my choice obvious! would I improve the finish by spraying Solarez I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer or is that unnecessary?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Spraying would be faster, but not better. Brushing works just as well, but takes longer to apply.

[@RollinLeonard]

@@HighlineGuitars thanks! I'll definitely forgo spraying since cleaning my guns is the real time suck.

[@pipedreamfretworks]

Hey Chris, thanks as always for this great info. Have you ever used z-poxy as a finish over nitro lacquer? I'm working on a mahogany body with a gold top (sprayed nitro over z-filled poplar). I'm wondering if, after the nitro has fully gassed off, I could just z-poxy over the whole darn thing.

[@HighlineGuitars]

No. I don’t use nitrocellulose.

[@pipedreamfretworks]

@@HighlineGuitars Ah, good to know. Thx

[@Hyperion_Studios1]

I’m looking to apply a real leaf to the top of my poly-finished turquoise Les Paul. Any quick ides? Several coats of brush-on poly? Love your videos! ✌️❤️

[@HighlineGuitars]

I would laminate the leaf to the body with slow setting epoxy. As it dries, lay a piece of wax paper over the leaf along with some HEAVY books to make it as flat as possible. Let it sit overnight and follow up with multiple coats of polyurethane. Good luck!

[@guzzirob]

IMO any type of oil on an acoustic guitar with a spruce or cedar top will alter the sound in a negative way. It will absolutely kill the sustain of the instrument. I should know, I put Watco Danish oil on my hand made guitar and I was extremely disappointed in the sound quality. Don't do it! I played my guitar with no finish on it for a couple of days. It sounded nice, then I applied the oil finish and what a drastic result. Really sorry I did. You can't get rid of the oil once it's on. It's soaked in forever. Maybe on an electric guitar it won't effect the sound that much. On an acoustic guitar the sound comes mainly from the top. It moves and vibrates and the oil really dampens the sound.

[@ireibarvaz]

I have a question. I have a vintage semi hollow guitar with a nitro finish, and the finish is chipping of. I thought about air brush it with a thin coat of lacquer, but I'm worried about it damage the sound of the guitar. Will it effect the tone?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Probably not.

[@MrRumorg]

Thank you!

[@dhkaiser]

Thanks for a wonderfully informative video. Can Solarex I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer be applied over a sanded smooth Tru Oil finish? Appreciate the help.

[@HighlineGuitars]

I don't know since I don't use Tru Oil. All I can say is you should test on scrap first.

[@eat-study]

Hi, what finish to be applief on back of the neck to enhace smoothness to my palm?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Try this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ3Ol4iljLF7ldE

[@russellstanbery8202]

Great video! I tried making my own oil finish with boiled linseed oil, min spirits, and polyurethane like you suggested. It looks great however, after a few coats I think I want something that's more glossy. Can I adjust the ratio of the mix to have more polyurethane to achieve this? Or should I just wait for it all to cure and then apply something like the Crystalac Brite Tone? Thanks!

[@HighlineGuitars]

You can try adjusting the ratios, but you'd be better off using a clear coat like Brite Tone.

[@jimrohling9348]

Great videos. Very informative. Wondering if you could recommend a Solarez product for clear coating over a metal flake finish which is rough to the touch. Thanks

[@HighlineGuitars]

I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer. 4-5 coats ought to do it.

[@nickmizell1141]

Hi, do you recommend using some type of wax and grease remover to clean the bare wood before starting the finishing process? If so, what products do you recommend? Thank you sir.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Naphtha.

[@nickmizell1141]

@@HighlineGuitars thank you sir, I really appreciate you answering all my questions!

[@duanebartlett4885]

Hello Sir thanks for the great videos. Can I use any of these over a UV polyester finish if I sand first?

[@HighlineGuitars]

The Solarez products might work, but you'll be better off removing the polyester first.

[@duanebartlett4885]

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks

[@tedrowland7800]

So what is your "go to" finish for acoustic guitars

[@HighlineGuitars]

These days, it's polymerized tung oil for me.

[@yogisgl]

Sir I have a Question.. Please answer.. It will be very helpful.. I have a Cort (Af510m-op) Open Pore Guitar all mahogany body Solid wood Guitar. What should I use to maintain and polish the guitar...? Kindly help...

[@HighlineGuitars]

You need to ask Cort Guitars. www.cortguitars.com/cortBBS/write.php?bo_table=Contactus

[@anagonz4887]

Sir what finish commonly using on acoustic guitar

[@HighlineGuitars]

I don't know. I don't make acoustic guitars.

[@JohnB.6251]

Hello, Can one use e-poxy over watco to get the gloss with the richness of the watco color?

[@tricorn1776]

Can I shellac a Guitar body that has a design painted in acrylic. Not worried about it darkening a bit. Just like the look and not breathing in toxic fumes. First build here.thanks

[@HighlineGuitars]

The only way to know is to test on scrap. Shellac is pretty forgiving so I doubt there would be a problem.

[@tricorn1776]

After watching your video I am thinking about try the I can't believe it's not lacquer. Would that work on acrylic paint?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@tricorn1776 You'll have to ask Solarez.

[@Dastardly_X]

I was recommended automotive clear. I've done a few , seems pretty good. Using Southern Polyurethanes Euro clear, Only downside is porous wood. I've had to respray 4 times on a couple of them.

[@tamsinmccormick]

Save yourself a load of time by grain filling on porous wood . I have used ordinary water based wood filler watered down and rubbed into the grain of mahogany - let it dry sand it down and do a second coat - sand smooth -clean off - apply your colour - then do your top coat. ( you won't need as many !! )

[@shaunmcinnis566]

That’s what I use and I love it. Cut and buff in 24 hours and very tough.

[@koliotemeruta]

How can I get Solarez I can't believe is no lacquer? Their website is not working. Help, please.

[@Vykinn]

G'day, love the video. But I was just wondering do you need to coat of paint or varnish on electric guitar/bass at all? Can you get away with just bare wood and apply may be a wax finish to it once in awhile.

[@HighlineGuitars]

You need to seal the wood to prevent warping, twisting, bending, and cracking due changes in humidity. Wax isn’t sufficient to seal the wood.

[@paul1223]

have you ever tried powder coating?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I have always wanted to, but so far I haven't mainly because I don't have the equipment to do it.

[@T1374]

I'd like to apply some decals and cigar bands on my guitar body. What would you recommend doing in that type of project, where it's going to cover decals?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Bury the decals in numerous coats of clear. With 10-15 coats, you should be able to level and polish the surface so you won't feel the edges of the decals.

[@T1374]

@@HighlineGuitars awesome, thank you.

[@walterrider9600]

thank you

[@robertnewell5057]

Just happened to come across this, Chris, and I was wondering if the z poxy is the same resin one would use for pore filling? I also recall you are using Melamine nowadays. How do they compare for ease of use. I find Chesnut Melamine very irritating (physically, I mean). Thanks as always

[@HighlineGuitars]

I've never heard of melamine. Maybe you're thinking of someone else?

[@robertnewell5057]

@@HighlineGuitars Sorry, Chris. You are quite right. I'm not sure where I got that from. Anyway, Chestnut Melamine Lacquer is a pretty easy to use product, with the exception of the toxicity. I have only ever used z poy finishing resin as a pore fill. Cheers.

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@robertnewell5057 I looked it up after you commented. Very interesting.

[@rachmaninoffrulz]

This may be a stupid question but is it possible to mix products? The amber tint and extraordinary efficient sealer from Z-poxy and the pristine gloss finish from Cristallac for the last 3 layers before polishing ?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Mix them together before applying? No!

[@rachmaninoffrulz]

@@HighlineGuitars noooooo! :D layers on top instead

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@rachmaninoffrulz Yes, you can do that. However, each layer has to be fully dried and cured to ensure proper adhesion, and as I always say, "TEST ON SCRAP FIRST!!!!!"

[@rachmaninoffrulz]

@@HighlineGuitars thanks man

[@jeffharmon2827]

I wonder if anyone has any tips on how to do this. I want to paint a precision bass body with a nitrocellulose sand color. The pickguard will be orange and I want what's underneath the nitrous cellulose to crack revealing an orange substrate below the nitrocellulose. I was thinking of mixing some alcohol dye with a grain filler first and then maybe sponging on some type of acrylic orange color over that. Don't know if I need to put a white vinyl sealer over that or go directly to nitrous cellulose, because again I'm looking for the orange to show through the distressed cracks through the nitrocellulose