Replacing A Suburban Water Heater In Your RV

[@ratso4443]

I want to thank you for this video. I am a 64 year old woman who just replaced my water heater myself after watching your instructions. It took me all day but it works!!

[@hillbillyrv]

That is fantastic. You know that I love to see women fix stuff. Congrats

[@daveshvac5665]

That silicone/masking tape tip was worth the price of admission! Thank you sir! 👊🏻

[@hillbillyrv]

That is my signature thing. It looks so good when you get done.

[@rickzak793]

Thank you for this video. When I tried to install my suburban SW6DEL 5140a/e which i purchased through amazon sold by united rv center which came in a brown box not a pretty suburban box and did not come with any instructions. I kept getting a leak where the hot and cold connections were made to the tank. I almost gave up. I originally used a standard black pipe 1/2 nipple 2 inch long from home depot going by what I saw used on my old original tank that was installed by Gulf Stream. They used a 3 inch long 1/2 black pipe nipple that was rusted shut and could not removed. After stopping at a few local rv places, one sold me plastic 1/2 nipples these also leaked I used tape at first they said with plastic you do not need tape either way it still leaked these rv places were totally useless. I am surprised these people did not know better. I was going to return the tank thinking their might be a hairline crack in the tank at the threads. Out of all the tank install videos I watched, yours was the only one that showed and addressed how you taped and installed and tightened a brass nipple to the tank. So as a last resort I went to home depot and purchased the brass nipple with the hex nut to tighten. I noticed a difference between the 3 different nipples. the threads on the black pipe and the plastic nipples were longer then the brass nipple. I measured the depth of the threaded area of the tank hot and cold inlets and found they were ,580 to.600 thousands of an inch deep. The other nipples I used would hit the bottom limit before the threads could really lock together with the brass nipple it tightened with the threads and still had space between it and to the bottom limit. problem solved. Thanks again.

[@hillbillyrv]

I only use brass in the water connections on the back of a water heater. Glad I could help.

[@williamkelly2415]

I watched 16 videos on RV water heater replacement before I found what I was looking for, which was how and where to apply the puddy tape and silicone to seal it all up. Thank you so much for covering this ever so important step in so much detail in your video.

[@hillbillyrv]

Thanks William. There is a LOT of misinformation on the WWW and KZbin. Glad I could help

[@larryweidensall]

I’m going to change that same tank out tomorrow. I learned a lot watching you do it. Thank you sir👍

[@hillbillyrv]

You are welcome

[@mattr7229]

I am in the process of replacing my water heater. Wow, that is a cool trick with the border tap and the silicone! I am definitely going to do that! As someone else commented, I wasn't sure on the silicone sealing step and you took the time to show how to do it... this part seems lacking in other Surburban water heater install videos. Thank You!

[@hillbillyrv]

You are welcome.

[@iokepatilden6746]

Thanks for your video. I changed out my H/W heater myself, 2-hrs time

[@jaysmith9062]

Thanks so much for this video. My door blew off on the road somewhere and broke the stud out of the bottom so I guess I need to replace the door and frame. Thanks for the tape tip. If I hadn’t seen that I would have probably silicone the bottom as well.

[@hillbillyrv]

So, someone literally blew your door off? ha ha Glad I could help Jay.

[@jaysmith9062]

@@hillbillyrv I guess they did😂. Thanks again. I enjoy your videos.

[@rivereed475]

TY old gal here putting new one in - needed help/preview.

[@hillbillyrv]

Awesome. Glad I could help.

[@hillustration]

That silicone trick is a winner.

[@hillbillyrv]

That silicone trick got me a $1 raise 30 years ago. Put me at $6 per hour.

[@vikkichurch7202]

Nice job. Thanks for showing start to finish.

[@hillbillyrv]

You are welcome

[@markridgemr]

Excellent video! Our water heater (SW12DE) just sprung a leak 2 days before we are to leave on a 12 day trip. I'll deal with it when we get back though: I killed the water supply to it with the bypass valve and we'll use the nice KOA showers on this trip.

[@hillbillyrv]

Way to roll with the punches that life throws at you.

[@markridgemr]

Started on my replacement today and came back to this video for guidance. The bezel was easy using a beehive tool.

[@mauriceharris7826]

Now I can do this thank you for showing this video

[@budshepherd9893]

great job.. thank you.. and you slathered that silicone just right.... take care... from Buddy S.

[@hillbillyrv]

You are welcome.

[@bigcheeze68]

Thank you for the video, while you didn't show it directly the references to where the control board sits helped me find it in my trailer. A wire came unplugged, and based on some other reviews I've ordered a better replacement control board. Would be nice to show and talk about the board however, still THANKS!!

[@hillbillyrv]

I hope you ordered a Dinosaur board, they are the BEST. I didn't show the board on this one, because I wasn't working on the board. Maybe next time. Thanks bigcheese

[@bigcheeze68]

@@hillbillyrv That's the board I ordered. Glad to hear from a pro I made the right choice.

[@garyduran1]

I just replaced my suburban 10 gallon for the second time in less than two years. My rig is 2015 and the original tank rusted through the burner chamber, so I replaced that in 12/20/19. Here we are 9/9/21 and the tank leaked at the side weld on the tank. I have changed the Ano rod twice. I called suburban and they said tuff luck. If I did the replacement myself or with an unauthorized dealer I’m screwed. I do live in the Sierra Nevada Mountains and we are on well water which is almost as good as rain water. PPM readings are at 40

[@hillbillyrv]

That's crazy.

[@VideoByPatrick]

How can I tell if my bezel is glued to outter surface, I see no screws holding bezel in place. Thanks

[@hillbillyrv]

There are 4 long screws and then it probably glued with silicone too. Sometimes impossible to get apart without destroying it.

[@thenomadiquechef4690]

Thank you brother man! Really helpful

[@jacobblack5414]

Hey brother, great video. What silicone did you use?

[@hillbillyrv]

100% silicone. DAP brand probably.

[@princesonthemove4020]

Great job. What type/brand of silicone are you using?

[@hillbillyrv]

100% silicone from Lowe’s.

[@garyduran1]

Journeymen caliber mechanic you are. Do I need to use brass fitting elbows at the hot and cold inlets? I have Flair-it fittings which are used for PEX & Polybutylene. Thank you

[@robertnewman1593]

Great video. My rv water heater (sw10de) quit working yesterday. It's 14 years old. No leaks, just quit working. Neither electric nor gas working. On vacation and ordered new last night. It should be there at the house when we get home. Your video helps a lot, but is there anything else as a novice I should be aware of when completing? I am assuming the wiring will be the same.

[@hillbillyrv]

Why would you replace the whole water heater if the tank is good? Suburban has been bought by Dometic and Dometic completely redesigned the water heater. Even the doors and sometimes the physical size. Sometimes you need an adapter door to make it fit the hole in the RV. They are a complete nightmare to upgrade. I have videos on that subject. Good luck.

[@robertnewman1593]

@hillbillyrv I'm not sure if the tank is good. I am clueless about what to test and how to test it. I know if you have the right tools, it's a snap. I just figured 14 years old.

[@robertnewman1593]

​@@hillbillyrvThe water heater was leaking on front botttom of the tank. Installed new heater but propane line kinked and broke when I tried hooking it up. The connector on new heater was not perpendicular to the hole. It was back a little. So, I ended up breaking it. A mobile rv guy came out and wants to order a rubber propane line with fittings and flare end of broken copper tubing in the camper. Is that safe? Why would he not use a 2 foot section of new copper tubing and flare it?

[@hillbillyrv]

@@robertnewman1593 Because he doesn't have the tubing or flare tool. Most RVs are 100% rubber LP lines now.

[@robertnewman1593]

@@hillbillyrv Would that be safe to have in a closed compartment with the electrical components of the heater? Just concerned about the crimp on end of rubber line might fail and leak. I had called a few plumbers before the mobile rv guy. They didn't want to touch it.

[@johnsellers2999]

You done good my friend. Was just what I was looking for. One question though it you don't mind? Did you have to disconnect a wire from the panel inside ? Not sure which one and why. Thanks so much for video

[@hillbillyrv]

You have to disconnect the AC & DC wiring from the old one and reconnect them to the new one.

[@cothobh9833]

isn't that top fitting for the hot side supposed to be a check valve? I didn't see you mention in it in the video

[@hillbillyrv]

It depends on what kind of winterize bypass it has. Some have a check valve and some don't.

[@JrayAloha]

Nice! However i dont mind if u record the small details, its helpful. Not sure how u cleared the propane- u didn’t show it or talk abt it

[@hillbillyrv]

Clear the propane? What is that?

[@robertnewman1593]

Another great video. Thank you for sharing this knowledge. It will definitely help with me tackling this project on my 5th wheel. By the way. Such a small leak how was it determined that the water heater need to be replaced? My camper is a 2010 Sierra that we bought new. It has the same (original) 10 gallon water heater in it. It is now going on 11 years old. I haven't noticed any problems but thought about switching it out. What are your thoughts on that?

[@hillbillyrv]

These water heater tanks are destroyed from the inside-out. It depends on the chemical makeup of your local water. If yours is not leaking, I wouldn't change it.

[@jeffbranecky8476]

I have a TT that I'm getting fumes under the sink where the hot water heater is. I did the soap test and all is good. Using my gas/ carbon monoxide detector, is goes off the charts at the water heater flue and under the sink cabinet. Only shows up when hor water heater is working. Any ideas

[@hillbillyrv]

I wouldn't have a clue how you could be getting fumes inside the camper from the water heater.

[@earlbutterfield8666]

My old waterheater had a orange and the new one does not so what do I do with the orange wire

[@hillbillyrv]

This video was shot 4 1/2 years ago. I don’t remember what color the wires were.

[@darrellthurman189]

Can I use gas and electric at same time to heat water for longer shower

[@hillbillyrv]

Yes you may and I recommend it.

[@jmpattillo]

Was the rusting caused by not replacing the anode rod?

[@hillbillyrv]

Some water is so bad that all the anode rods in the world won't help, but it is probably not a bad idea to change it when necessary.

[@heycoolbeats1872]

Thanks!

[@hillbillyrv]

You are welcome

[@heycoolbeats1872]

Great vid dude!

[@hillbillyrv]

@@heycoolbeats1872 Thanks

[@calysta8439]

Didn't do that cutting the old wire trick and now we're stuck paying someone to hook it up for us😮‍💨

[@hillbillyrv]

It happens

[@kneenocker]

Good Video! So how long did it take to replace in real time?

[@hillbillyrv]

Usually a couple of hours.

[@kneenocker]

@@hillbillyrv Thanks, I enjoy all your vids!

[@hillbillyrv]

@@kneenocker Thanks. I am glad you enjoy them.

[@3ormorecharacterstimes2]

I need help, I just replaced my suburban 6 gallon SW6DEL, gas/elec. but still can't get the gas side to work, I turn on the inside switch and the ignitor start clicking but will never fire. The electric side is working I just can't get the gas to work. The old water heater the gas never worked on it either. I replaced the regulator at the tanks, tanks are full, I cleared the lines blew it out with air compressor everything gas works but the water heater. The heater came with a new control board

[@hillbillyrv]

That's strange. You sure you got air through that line? Are you sure the line is not damaged somewhere?

[@3ormorecharacterstimes2]

@@hillbillyrv Yes all the air is cleared from the line I can loosen the line from the heaters gas valve and it will blow gas out through the line

[@3ormorecharacterstimes2]

@@hillbillyrv The guy I ordered it from is having me send it back to him, can you think of anything that would prevent it from working ? The electric is working great, and when I flip the inside switch on for gas operation like I said the ignitor starts clicking and sparking just the damned gas valve won't turn on the gas to it

[@hillbillyrv]

@@3ormorecharacterstimes2 Could be a bad control board or a bad gas valve. Hard to say.

[@3ormorecharacterstimes2]

@@hillbillyrv Yep like you said, weird. Knowing the 12v battery is weak I hooked up a hot battery, to eliminate the damaged gas line theory I set up the tanks and new regulator directly to the water heater, tried using the control board off the old heater, same results, talked to a guy at a rv repair shop, he said weird LOL and sold me a new switch for inside, still got nothing. Oh well will box it up in the morning and ship it back. Thanks for your input, everybody is at the same conclusion, it's just weird.

[@mikiweaver3558]

Sure wish you would replace mine!😮

[@hillbillyrv]

Ok

[@alfredabbey6162]

If the women don't find you handsome at least they'll find you handy.

[@hillbillyrv]

ha ha I don't know how they think.

[@whygl9502]

can you ell the exact model

[@hillbillyrv]

I don't remember. I was replacing the bad one with the exact same model.

[@nathanurick8320]

If you try and put a bucket in there and catch most of the water you won’t have to stand in in while you finish the job

[@hillbillyrv]

And then what would I have to complain about?

[@nathanurick8320]

@@hillbillyrv I really enjoy your work

[@hillbillyrv]

@@nathanurick8320 Thank you

[@ProjectFound999]

I watched this just for wire connections.. next

[@hillbillyrv]

Thanks for watching.

[@RandomPanda]

Good video but I had to get a tetanus shot from not wearing gloves while cleaning the caulk off the outer metal frame... where gloves guys!

[@hillbillyrv]

I am too tough to get tetanus...ha ha. I can't do gloves.

[@danceswithtallcans7694]

You sir are awesome. I have the same heater and it’s having multiple issues. The propane stopped igniting so I’m just using the electric component . It constantly stops heating up and I have to go to the heater and flip the reset switch, it sometimes goes off again immediately. Which parts should I replace? I know I have to get it diagnosed to be sure but I’m broke and want to just go buy any parts you might think it is? By the way I subscribed and gave you a thumbs up. Also the reset switch sometimes gets hard to switch on and off

[@hillbillyrv]

Are you talking about the On and Off switch in the lower left corner on the outside of the WH? If that is what you referring to. Buy a new switch.

[@danceswithtallcans7694]

@@hillbillyrv yes that’s the switch, so if I just replace the switch then the heating element won’t keep shutting off ? Again, thank you my friend

[@danceswithtallcans7694]

@@hillbillyrv also to clarify, the switch doesn’t flip to off on its own when the heating element quits, it will still be in the on position but I have to flip it off and on a few times to get the element to turn back on