Replacing My Leaking Suburban SW6DE RV Water Heater

[@TheRCfunny]

Excellent video, thank you very much for sharing details " How to do "

[@tron2ksa]

Getting ready to replace the water heater in my wife's mobile dog grooming van, it has the same model water heater. Thank you so much for the detailed look at the process

[@Anbriaa]

Your video is literally going to save us over $600 by doing it ourselves. Thank you!!

[@LoveYourRV]

Awesome!

[@peterhyatt431]

Just replaced my 14 year old suburban water heater. Watched your video first. Very helpful. FYI the PEX valve you thought was for winterizing is actually a mixer valve. You can adjust it so the hot water going to a faucet is mixed with cold water so you are not scalded. Adjust it as necessary.

[@LoveYourRV]

interesting, I've never heard of using it for that. . I've used it as a bypass valve for winterization as explained in this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXupe51_nLOJbZY My system doesn't have the 3 valves since it uses a check valve on the hot water supply instead it just needs the one bypass valve. Cheer, Ray

[@garyhughes5558]

Wow, Thank you so much for walkin' me through this. I just ordered my replacement. I hope I did the right thing though, I went to the company you purchased your unit from and they now want over $700.00. I found one on Ebay for $450.00. So thank you again so much much for I live full time in my RV and have not had hot water for over two years.

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome. :) Mine is still working well all these years later. Cheers, Ray

[@357sps]

Very nice documentation of "how to do it yourself" Happy trails friend!!!

[@heartbeat59]

I really enjoyed your video. You made the repair or installation so easy. I think the hardest part was getting the water heater out. Thanks for taking the time to show us the repairs.

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome, glad you liked it. Cheers Ray

[@michael122663]

Super video! I applauded for $2.00 👏

[@LoveYourRV]

Thanks. :)

[@trueblue2k2]

I had the very same problem with my Suburban (a weld inside the burner cavity leaking). It threatened to ruin my vacation, so I decided to try some radiator sealant to see what would happen. This required shutting off heater, partly draining, removing the pressure relief valve, adding solution through the hole, and sealing with teflon tape. AlumaSeal (and similar brands) come as a fine, silvery, aluminum powder suspended in gel-like liquid in a pint-sized bottle, far more than needed. After refill and restart, in about 15 minutes the leaking had stopped I then drained the water and could see no trace of sealant. Aluminum is used in the anode to prevent corrosion (which I replaced too), so there is that chemistry already in use. Since hot water is not consumed (only used for washing), I flushed the tank twice for good measure, concluding that the rusty interior had absorbed it all. That was three years ago now, and the leak has never since returned.

[@LoveYourRV]

Wow, amazing!

[@WildLilac01]

Make a video! probably could of saved hundreds on a new one. But I’m still saving doing it myself!

[@rvthurston5281]

Nice How To Ray and perfectly timed. My friend's Suburban failed last fall and he's invited me over to do the swap out.

[@LoveYourRV]

Cool. Hope it helps out.

[@2-old-Forthischet]

Thanks for the tutorial. I wonder if a drip pan under the water heater would help in case of future leaks such as from the cold and hot water connections.

[@Gman-qm6bv]

Excellent presentation, I am also a retired electronics tech and RVer. Great work and thanks!

[@WillMcAllister3144]

Wow - what a job! thanks for the information. My SWG6 tank began leaking to but I replaced it with a gas only instant heater.

[@pauldesforges6240]

Great video! Loved how you followed up and found the faulty weld.

[@jh231a]

One of the best videos I have seen in a while. Great on the details. Thanks for your demonstration and excellent coverage of every step.

[@gregbiles7120]

Just the video I needed. I've got the same model water heater (leaking near the anode) and a 2013 Keystone Cougar so it's very close. Price has increased quite a bit since your video. Amazon was $430 USD / $510 CAD (cheaper than PPL)

[@modus16222]

well done, very informative, saved me $500 install costs!!

[@LoveYourRV]

Glad it helped

[@michelebme]

Now I know how to replace my leaking hot water tank AND pump. Ugh. Hopefully replacing mine will be as simple as you made it look. Thanks Ray appreciate the video.👍

[@dudebruhdude]

Thank you so much for this video! My pressure relief valve leaks a bunch, I tried to remove and replace the valve, but it's stuck, and I don't want to break anything lol. So I'm about to order a new suburban water heater, and follow your lead. Thanks again!

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome. :)

[@boboso74]

Had exact same problem fixed with JB Weld

[@trueblue2k2]

Thanks for comment by Love Your RV. Homeless folks surviving in an RV may be unable to afford a new WH, but a $10 bottle of Alumaseal will fit most budgets. RVers too would much rather spend the install time and $500 on their vacation. Like many Suburban's, my unit has the built in "free" heat exchanger fed by engine heater hoses (while traveling). That feature is not standard, adding more cost and difficulty to the replacement job as well. Much cheaper to keep the old one going, and perhaps add a "Hott Rod" element kit if electric hookups will save you more $$.

[@LoveYourRV]

Thanks for the tips, Cheers, Ray

[@kevinholland4156]

I have used PPL for years; mostly for RV covers. I bought a Thetford Curve Porta-potti from them. I find it cheaper to go to them and pay the freight than buy it in the Salt Lake City area. Ray I sure do like your videos; you rock.

[@LoveYourRV]

Thanks! :)

[@mattr7229]

Thank you for this video! You gave me the courage and critical information to tackle this job... could not have done this job without you! Having gone through this now, I hope it is okay if I share my experience with your viewers. 1) Some may find it impossible to free the door frame from the water heater. This happened to me. There is a tremendous amount of sealant applied there and this is done on purpose to seal the bottom when letting water out with the pressure relief valve. My advice: don't bother trying... even if you are successful, you have to spend lots of time removing old sealant. Spend the $40 dollars and just get a new heater door/door frame. (By doing this job yourself, you are saving hundreds of dollars) 2) Speaking of sealant, the rubber grommet around the copper gas line is gobbed with sealant to keep possible propane fumes from entering the coach. You will not re-use this part and a new replacement suburban will come with a new one. (I wasn't sure in the beginning and tried to carefully remove it to preserve it... don't, just rip it out. 3) You will want to keep the water heater out of the way during installation. I found the DC line length Suburban gives you coming off the DC control unit were too short. I cut these lines and added extra 2 feet wire (there are 4 lines and this required double soldering on each wire so this did add time to the installation). This gave me lots of room that I needed to work and I feel the extra time spent was worth it. 4) As Love Your RV encountered in the video, removing the hot and cold water couplings is a challenge. My secret... I used an impact wrench and they came right off! (This was after having tried with conventual monkey wrench and socket wrench). 5) The propane input copper pipe uses a "flared fitting". The pipe is pre-made to have a trumpet like end and this interfaces with a special brass fitting you can see on the heater. This is designed to not use any special sealant... In order to get the connection right, the copper input line needs to perfectly line up with the brass fitting... can't approach on an angle. Even the slightest bit off will give you leaks. Took me a few times to get it right and success was reached in my case when I manipulated the position of the copper pipe so that it was directly inline with the fitting. This is particularly challenging because the pipe presses against the Styrofoam insulation making it difficult to maneuver. 6) Lastly, don't make the dumb mistake I made... when starting the job and trying to get off the silicone surrounding the heater, be very careful if your rig has decals where the filter is. I ended up damaging my decals in a few spots with the scraping tool : (

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome!. You'll be happy to hear my replacement water heater still works well six years later. Thanks for sharing the tips. Cheers! Ray

[@stuartfact8361]

Anytime we remove items that are sealed to the side of our trailer, I use a heat gun to soften the adhesive and then a plastic trim tool to scrape it off, works with much less effort and minimizes the chance of scratching the surface. I learned this the hard way, after scratching the exterior 😢

[@sccarolinagirl6284]

Thanks so much for posting!! Just returned home with a hot water tank leak! I think I will be able to save myself some money and replace it myself! Great video!!

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome, glad it helped. Cheers!

[@t54760]

Nicely done with helpful details. Also, appreciate you taking the extra time to do the post mortem.

[@LoveYourRV]

Thanks!

[@bbcooter388]

Ray, you did the same thing I would do, I'd also want to find out why the (HOT) Water Heater failed !!! I recently replaced my Water Heater (Atwood), however, I decided to replace the Water Heater with a Propane Only model versus the Propane/Electric model.

[@LoveYourRV]

I'm always curious. :)

[@quartzboye]

The same thing just happen to mine. I was using my water pump at the time and it went off, looked at the water heater to see a tiny pinhole leaking water.

[@davidn2995]

I had the exact same problem this weekend. Great video. Just ordered from PPL. $342.49 and free ground shipping. Thanks for the details.

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome, best of luck with the install. Hope you get her fixed up. Ours is working well again. :) Cheers Ray

[@mic982]

Very good video of the H2O heater and it's workings, removal, replacement. Thanks.

[@LoveYourRV]

Glad you liked it. Cheers! Ray

[@JimPopeHiker]

Thank you for the great video. I also have a leak and was wondering what lurks on the other side of the panel. Good to know.

[@DRIFTIN.]

Another job well done, solder and shrink tube is the only way to go. Thanks for showing what the problem was.Safe travels,,,,

[@LoveYourRV]

Thanks. :) I think so.

[@katiek4249]

Of Course you know I was kidding with you.... well what happened is I used my inside water, with the water pump and then I thought I would try using the outside water one more time (making sure I didn't turn the pressure up too much coming into the trailer) and would you believe there is no more leaking under the water tank, and I was finally able to get ALL the leaks from the hoses fixed and so there is NO MORE LEAK.... I am so very grateful.... God has really had great compassion on me trying to get this fixed.... finally ALL IS GOOD..... Thanks For Your Reply!

[@LoveYourRV]

Excellent! :)

[@ProfTurbodog]

Well done. Thanks for sharing the panorama with us. Beautiful campsite!

[@PinkPowerAllyTreasureHunter]

Thank you for the video. I've learned alot. Best get a call into the RV dealer for a new tank.

[@richardsmith9878]

Same model, same problem. Thank you for this video.

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome!

[@caspernomad9262]

Excellent video about replacing the water heater!!

[@pablominola]

Thanks for taking your Time Ray, to explain step by step. Love the way you explain. Thanks again from the end of the World Argentina.

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome. Cheers! Ray

[@404now]

Thank you for the education video. I always love those types of videos on subjects we may run into. Happy trail to you as well.

[@katiek4249]

I just wanted to add that the Video was excellent as well !

[@LoveYourRV]

Thanks. :)

[@marshallpoe8087]

The cut frame is a bit disturbing. I agree with you that they should have planned that installation better in the design. Thanks for sharing the maintenance activity.

[@kazwo]

Based on your recommendations I bought a new water heater. Sadly I don't own a rv and I'm not sure how to install it in my bathroom.

[@JD-nb4rp]

Thank you for the nice and informative video. Very helpful to me as I face the same task of replacement in a few days!

[@LoveYourRV]

You are welcome, its still working well. :)

[@DJMikeyMike007]

Very Well Done. Thank You! I'll be doing exactly what you did.

[@PilotJ30]

Love the videos Ray, thanks! Great job catching a hummingbird in the first few seconds of the video!

[@LoveYourRV]

haha, ya, bit of a fluke :)

[@bobcarley827]

As usual, thanks Ray! We are on a trip to Oregon from Southern Calif and of course started getting a leak coming out not directly from the burner area but immediately under. Your video was very helpful. Once we get back home, guess what I will be doing! Lol. Thanks again. Regards, Bob

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome Bob, hope the repairs go smooth. Cheers, Ray

[@traveller9625]

Thanks Ray all your videos are very useful, you are saving some people allot of money. Thanks again

[@verlinbrumley1841]

ray great video my water heater is also leaking your video helped me a great deal with replacing mine thank you! god bless 👍🙏

[@LoveYourRV]

Glad it helped :)

[@BillKimCook]

Thanks for shooting this video. Our five-year old Suburban water heater just developed a similar leak to the one you showed in your video. It was in the burner chamber. After watching your video, I'm confident we'll discover the problem is a failed weld. We bought our 2010 Tiffin Phaeton motorhome in February 2021. The folks we bought it from had replaced the water heater in December 2016. More to the point, they had never heated their water with propane, just electric. Wonder if Suburban is have quality control problems. Thanks for your great video!!

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome :)

[@brettcounsellor537]

Such a great video. You see too many with not enough explanation and too much BS ;-) Especially like the focus on testing the gas line!!! Just bought our RV and the prior owner did not winterize properly so the heater was full of rust which pretty much ruins the whole dang unit. We have the SW6DEL model on order to replace existing one. Should be basically the same install. THANKS AGAIN

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome. :) Cheers, Ray

[@MickWoodworking]

Thanks for sharing and posting a great how to video, my water heater is doing fine but now I know how to replace if needed.

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome Mick

[@ryanlewis1759]

Getting ready to do mine. This weekend and your Video was a great help Thank you sir!

[@LoveYourRV]

Glad it helped :)

[@toddreimer1158]

We have a Cougar TT with Suburban utilities. Your vid will probably be a big help in the future. Thanks!

[@LoveYourRV]

Hope it helps but you never need it. ;) Cheers! Ray

[@TheWaterpond]

Great job. Clear and concise video. Easy to understand. Thank you.....

[@jamesgrossi5771]

Jim Grossi Excellent video!! very well explained and talked through. Love the way you do your videos and make them so easy to understand they are a true asset to us all. You and your excellent videos are the best thing to happen for a DIYer. THANKS SO MUCH!! I think your have the most helpful videos on youtube for anyone who owns a trailer or RV

[@LoveYourRV]

Thank you for the kind words. Much appreciated. Cheers! Ray

[@rob471111]

The video made the replacement of my water heater easy. Thank you!!!

[@LoveYourRV]

Awesome! :)

[@dylanrubiera5296]

At 17:28 you uncovered the finished product. It had a silver mounting bracket around the hole for the water heater. Did that come with the flush door or did you have to order that separate.

[@LoveYourRV]

I reused the original outside metal flashing and door.

[@lanceduff]

I'm having to change mine out this weekend. Very helpful! Thanks for the video!

[@LoveYourRV]

You bet, have fun. :)

[@laurieanderson4483]

Is there a way to regulate water temperature? Great video

[@LoveYourRV]

They use a thermostat device set for 130F It could be changed. See this video where I had to change a faulty one www.loveyourrv.com/rv-water-heater-not-fully-heating-failed-130-degree-thermostat/ Also, here is a simple hack that I use to monitor my water heater temp www.loveyourrv.com/rv-water-heater-temperature-monitor-tip-dry-camping/ Cheers, Ray

[@danthefuckinman1]

There’s a humming bird in the begging of the video when your looking at the pond!

[@LoveYourRV]

Yes, we had a feeder out and they were coming all the time. :)

[@greentexasfarmsgroworganic]

awesome video thank you i will start on my RV heater today ..

[@OminousRooster]

Thanks Ray, very useful information. You made it sound simple.

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome. :)

[@nosdehgan4401]

Great video...I switched my Atwood water heater with Suburban advantage which is a direct replacement but I'm getting lot of air at faucet every time I use the water heater.. how do you remove the air..? When I'm filling up the tank for first time?

[@LoveYourRV]

I open my faucets while the tank is filling so the air can escape. Once they all run only water I'm good to go or there is a pressure release valve on the water heater that can be opened as it fills the air will be force out.

[@louieastorga6117]

Great clean installation. On question, how does the unit get secured to the RV floor so it does not move around while on the road?

[@LoveYourRV]

Thanks! It doesn't get secured to the floor in any way just sits on it, the outside frame clamps it to the sidewalls aluminum frame with screws that's what holds in in place. I did see the install manual says to screw in a 2x2 board to the floor on each side of the tank, although the factory never did it and it hasn't been an issue for us with over 50,000 miles traveled and on some pretty rough roads.

[@louieastorga6117]

I think the 2x2 boards on each side would give me a better night's sleep specially with a unit bigger than 6 gallons. Thanks again.

[@stevengrande2364]

thank you so much... my brand new suburban SW6D has No spark.. odering a new Circuit board

[@northrube5797]

Ray, Nice find and fix! Unfortunate tho...Glad you post DIY videos to show us the life of full timers! It looks like Angie is still curious! Mark

[@LoveYourRV]

Thanks Mark, always nice to figure out what went wrong. Angie is nearly 14 but still full of spunk. :)

[@MalcolmStranathan]

Thank you very much for putting this out there, much appreciated!

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome. :)

[@andyphuong4826]

Great value video, I'll save and help me in the future. Thanks Mr Ray.

[@smars42]

Love your videos Ray. Safe travels!!

[@LoveYourRV]

Thanks!

[@daviddennis2342]

Awesome video, job well done! Saved you a pocket full of $ and you did a very professional job! Really enjoyed the informative installation video!

[@LoveYourRV]

Thank you. :)

[@Sinister_BTC]

What an amazing detailed video!

[@countryboylife5darlowe391]

Thanks for the video! Looks like I’ll be replacing mine

[@KRich408]

My old Heater had Fiberglass wrapped around it (1980's) not Styrofoam, I wonder if this is why my old Heater was more efficient? maybe I should try wrapping my 2000 era Heater with a Small Fiberglass Blanket sold in the Big Box Home improvement stores for residential Water Heaters? and see if My LP And/Or AC usage drops?

[@recumbentrevolution6540]

Kenneth Richner I am a full-time rver and you are correct. I wrapped my styrofoam water heater with fiberglass insulation and it decreases the ignition Cycles by probably 30% in the winter

[@RxMixer]

Great video, as per usual, Ray. Yeah, that would have bothered me also about the cut frame. It looks like there was plenty of topside clearance, they could have just put down a 1" plywood platform and cut the access hole an inch higher and voila, complete wall frame. Sometimes, I just don't understand...🤔🤔. Beautiful scenery, too! Later... Terry

[@mariocaron6060]

Excellent video. Many thanks for the step by step demonstration. One question : how did you discover the source of the leak ? Was there water on the floor under the heater or somewhere else ? We have water under the floor and we are not sure where it is coming from. We are suspecting the water heater and will check next time we are at the lake whether we are having the same problem as you identified. Many thanks again !

[@LoveYourRV]

I started seeing water dripping outside from the water heater and hearing a sizzling sound. The leak was dripping water right into the gas flames burner area. Inside the rig was dry. Cheers, Ray

[@bobfotoples6950]

Got a question. On your low point drain plugs at about 6:22 in the video; are they the ones you have to unscrew and remove a cap, or are they the kind that twist and the water drains and you don't actually remove anything? I have a 2009 Outback, and I have caps that are between my tires and they're difficult to get at, and alos put back on after the water has drained out of the two low point drains. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. I was quoted $15.00 per drain for the plastic part by an RV dealer.

[@LoveYourRV]

Mine are just screwed on PEX caps. I rarely drain so hasn't been a problem to remove them the odd time I do.

[@jameschristie4596]

Great detail as always. Hope the same water heater in our 2011 Cougar 31sqb doesn't suffer the same fate. You must be close to the GM test facility north of Yuma? My wife and I will be boondocking around there the first week of March.

[@LoveYourRV]

Not likely, if not for the bad weld I bet this tank would last 15 or 20 years if maintained. We are just north of the Yuma Proving Ground. :) - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yuma_Proving_Ground

[@reem46490]

9:48 Every RV owner is capable of getting half their money back by selling their extra screws lol

[@ChadWorthman]

Thank you! I'm having the same problem.

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome. :)

[@hotdude655]

The website i went to says Door, frame kit & indoor switch are sold separately. You MUST purchase both the water heater, door, and switch for a complete system! These are sold as separate part numbers. Competing manufacturers assemblies are not interchangeable

[@LoveYourRV]

Yeah, I just reused that stuff as it was still in good condition. I just needed the replacement water heater.

[@hotdude655]

@@LoveYourRV company got back to me and they said I don't need it for the SW6DE model**

[@CarlosGarcia-yg7gh]

Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Gotta do mine next week. Thanks!!!

[@LoveYourRV]

Good luck!

[@davem5843]

RAY, WOULD YOU BUY A NEW COUGAR 5th WHEEL AGAIN. JUST WOUNDED SEEING HOW YOU PERFORM ALL YOUR MAINTENANCE. I ALWAYS ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS

[@LoveYourRV]

Here is a post I just did answering the question - www.loveyourrv.com/cougar-trailer-review-fulltime-rving/ Cheers! Ray

[@godspeed2145]

what is that stuff around the rubber grommet that wraps around the propane line? Do I need that if I have to remove it?

[@LoveYourRV]

Its just some silicone sealant so the gas fumes can enter back into the RV. I had some high temps stuff used for car engines on hand so used that.

[@BKKKevin]

Great video!... I was wondering how you initially noticed the leak?... Seems like you would only notice when looking right in there or did not all of the water evaporate from the flam3 heat and leak out?...

[@LoveYourRV]

I first noticed when the flame wasn't burning right and could hear lots of sizzling noises, then saw a bit of water dripping out the front of the water heater.

[@sevanson1]

Did you use galvanized nipple when you should have used brass? Attwood has an aluminum tank. I suspect early problems here.

[@LoveYourRV]

Its a Suburban tank, they are porcelain lined steel tanks.

[@garycramer4041]

So surprised there is a Check valve on the hot water output, would this be the fault that I have hot water for just a short time than none?

[@LoveYourRV]

The check valve is there for winterizing. Here is a video where I take it apart and explain the operation - www.loveyourrv.com/squealing-rv-water-heater-fix-failed-check-valve/ You could try changing yours and see if it solves the problem. Cheers, Ray

[@garycramer4041]

Thanks for help in solving my heater problem, it turned out to be a faulty check valve, keep up the great video’s.

[@mikedelrod6197]

Thank you so much Sr. Very helpful your video.......looking good looking good !!!

[@KarlGottshalk]

Another great video Ray!!!

[@LoveYourRV]

Thank you

[@VideoByPatrick]

I see you were ok wire nutting stranded 120v wires to Molex solid wires ?

[@LoveYourRV]

Yes, it worked fine that way for 6 years prior to the water heater swap and has worked fine since. Also the connection is inside a metal junction box. Cheers, Ray

[@VideoByPatrick]

@@LoveYourRV love your detailed dc wiring specifications. So for non gas rv just ignore the orange wire; and just WHT wire to old heater wall switch and ground green to chassis, right ?

[@LoveYourRV]

If you aren't going to use it's gas functionality then hook up is pretty simple as you don't need any DC wiring. See page 10 of the manual www.nroa2003.com/download/Service%20Manuals/Suburban_Waterheater_service_manual.pdf 120VAC only diagram. In it the black hot wired goes through the on/off switch Don't wire AC power through the old wall switch unless it is rated for the AC voltage 120VAC and amperage 15A minimum. Many of the WH wall switches on RVs are for gas on/off operation only and use lower voltage/current DC power switches. If you use one of those it may be underrated for the power. But I don't know what your RV is wired for so can't comment for sure. Maybe your RV has an internal AC rated WH wall switch. This water heater has its own AC switch on it and then usually the AC WH power feed has a 15 amp breaker located in the RV power panel.

[@VideoByPatrick]

@@LoveYourRV I should have been clearer. The old wall switch is dc hot. I hate 120v toggle switches. So I could use the old lp wall dc switch to On-Off the new 120v relay switch that's inside the new water heater. The wall dc idiot light ground path would I think be blue ?

[@LoveYourRV]

By the looks of the 12V diagram, blue is the warning light + feed Comes on red on my panel if the gas fails to ignite via the sparker or the on other models if the pilot light goes out.

[@T0mmyGun654]

Great video. Very informative. Good job.

[@richardbrown6778]

thanks doing mine tomorrow from edmonton alberta

[@ThomWalbranA1]

I don't have access to the side or bad of my DW6 DE, the floor and the wall around the heater as well as the 70-gallon fresh water tank have extreme water damage. Both are in the front bay directly under the front tip-out or pop-out tent bed area. I need some suggestions or links to any video that might help.

[@LoveYourRV]

There must be some sort of access panel to get to the back water connections. If not you'll need to make one. If there is extreme water damage your going to have to open everything up to do repairs anyway. All the damaged wood needs to be removed and replace otherwise you can have mold problems that keep spreading. All the best, Ray

[@coopdeville377]

Started swapping mine out tonight but the propane supply flare nut is frozen. I think I'll pick up some of those nipples and butyl tape to add to the silicone.

[@johnw.7584]

Nice install you did...

[@goingolfn1999]

great video. we have the sw10de. helped out a lot.

[@robertgarbe6348]

I like the Atwood units better, all aluminum, no corrosion. A little easier to switch out also

[@williamallman7534]

Aluminum, No corrosion? Isn't that what they make the anode from?

[@Timothy_Smith]

Great explanation. Thanks for the video.

[@LoveYourRV]

You're welcome. Cheers!

[@brianducharm3500]

Well done Ray! TY

[@garycramer4041]

Not sure my first comment or question was posted, so ask again of the check valve on the hot water output be the cause of stopping the flow from a full tank of hot water?

[@LoveYourRV]

The check valve is there for winterizing. Here is a video where I take it apart and explain the operation - www.loveyourrv.com/squealing-rv-water-heater-fix-failed-check-valve/ You could try changing yours and see if it solves the problem. Cheers, Ray

[@rudidundas7081]

Hi Ray! Very interesting, but I think this would be beyond my technical skills! However, wanted to ask you which park that was in Palm Springs? I stayed at the Happy Traveler a month ago which had a great location close to town, but your park looked more spacious and I love the fountains in the pond! Do you mind sharing the name of the Park? Thanks so much!

[@LoveYourRV]

It's called Oasis Palms RV Resort. We stayed a month there. I did a full review - www.loveyourrv.com/oasis-palms-rv-resort-review/ Cheers!

[@traceygibb2186]

Mine is leaking at the weld too.

[@LoveYourRV]

Sorry to hear. :( My replacement has been working well for over 7 years now of full time use.