Hinge Repair on a Gardall depository safe

A damaged keypad on a depository safe leads to the discovery of an issue with the hinges. Here is how we repaired the safe and put it back into service.

[@waynewinton]

Nice job Gene!

[@StarfleetLockSafeInc]

Thank you Wayne.

[@asuarezjd]

Good job! I love projects like that one. Of course, at my pace and taking my time as a retiree, not with the stress of a business and customer pressure, ha! My TL15 is in the basement. So, knowing the concrete floor is like a wick I went to Home Depot and cut a 4x4 into pieces the length of the safe as a base. I screwed them together side by side with good bolts, one by one. In other words, one first, then another one on top of the ones I joined, then again until I had six side by side, then a 3/16 plywood on top with panel nails. I did this because the 4x4 was treated wood and the plywood was not, so the metal was not touching the treated wood. Then, I had gardening fiber left over and placed it on top. Then the safe screwed to the solid wood base. The 4x4s base was screwed to the concrete floor with four rust proof molly expansion bolts, so the base is fixed to the floor, then the safe is screwed to the base. It is not going anywhere because the safe itself is 460 lbs. Yet, the benefit is that you can get an inch or two of water on the floor and it does not wick up to the safe nor it remains wet, ever. So it never rusted and it has been 12 years by now, fresh and clean as the day I bought it. This is what should be done here. Concrete floors and metal do not get along.

[@StarfleetLockSafeInc]

Thank you for your comment. Your solution for your issue is a classic. A lot of homeowners ask us about doing the same thing and it all depends on their situation. This particular safe is in a restaurant setting. The safe being on a pedestal would be wonderful, but - as in most cases - the restaurant corporations aren't always looking at the long-term effects. Add to the fact that the mop crew throws down more chlorinated water than is actually needed. That means you end up with a situation like this. We regularly remove safes from restaurants that have the bottoms ready to fall out from years of sitting in puddles of water. That being said, in most modern home settings, unless you have a wet basement, bolting directly to the concrete floor is not usually a problem. Even then, a lot of times we place shims under one or more corners to level the safe and that allows an air passage. We have often come back years later and removed a safe for transport to a new home and there is little or no rust/corrosion. However, it should also be noted that most safe manufacturers never paint the bottom of their safes so there is nothing to protect the metal from moisture or humidity. Thanks watching and again thanks for your comment.

[@jonfoster1566]

Bolt screwed in the adjustment hole and push the hinge pin out? SMH

[@terrystephens1102]

Why didn’t you apply WD40 to the hinge pin prior to trying to remove it ?

[@StarfleetLockSafeInc]

At first you would think that might be prudent. After 41 years as a locksmith and 23 years concentrating on safe and vault work, I have never had a tougher door to remove from a safe. So it never crossed my mind to use penetrating oil. With that said, my go to for penetrating oil is Kroil. In my opinion this is the best stuff going. WD40 has some penetrating qualities, but not like Kroil. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@patrickkenyon3708]

If the safe isn't bolted down and you have a stuck door, turn it on its top, spray hinges with simple green or wd40, hit the door with a dead blow and watch your toes.

[@StarfleetLockSafeInc]

Thank you Patrick. That was a common reply that we received for this video. Gene described it to me as this: "I thought about that, but the top was the only part of this safe that wasn't already scratched or damaged. I was hoping to keep it that way. It most likely would have been successful, especially if I used a penetrant like Kroil." Again, Thank You for watching and commenting. We hope to have more safe and lock repair videos in the future.

[@ayynk]

Great video. Who makes that nice attachment for that bottle jack you used to lift the door?

[@StarfleetLockSafeInc]

Hello, this is a custom designed toe jack. Gene came up with the design based on one he saw from a manufacturer from California. He took his design to a local steel fabrication shop and they changed it to what you see here. Gene is not extremely happy with the design change but it is functional.

[@waynewinton]

First!

[@StarfleetLockSafeInc]

;)

[@edharm8446]

Geez, some WD 40 on the hinges

[@StarfleetLockSafeInc]

WD40 did actually no good. KROIL, some of the best penetrating oil in the world also did no good.

[@sircampbell1249]

Penetrating oil is your friend ...

[@StarfleetLockSafeInc]

Yes, yes it is!

[@edharm8446]

I can't watch this dude.