HMS belay loop carabiners

This is all about me talking about carabiners made specifically for belaying, and how I use them as attachments to the rope for glacier travel and short roping my clients up easy terrain.
Here's the video that explains the reason why it's ok to use these carabiners as your attachment to the rope during glacier travel: • Why we clip to the rop...
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Instagram: rtillson_

[@bullfrogboss8008]

Ocun Condor is my favourite one

[@heisibeisi5695]

Your discussion of the pros and cons of a specific gear item is very interesting and supports me to deliberately pick the most suitable item. I tend to just pack the carabiner, which is somehow doing it's job, but do not consider whether it's optimal or not. Therefore, your video is very helpful to consider the subtle features of each item. Great content! Thanks

[@timwentzell9223]

Been using the DMM ceros triple locker shown here for a while. It's worked great for me. I dont ever use a gri-gri so if they could ditch the horn to shave some grams then it would be perfect. You ever have auto lockers freeze up on you?

[@ryantilley9063]

For sure, I've had just about every locker freeze up on me, the only acceptation is something like the Grivel twin gate carabiners. The one I had I this video is an example but I do like the more standard ones more. They also kind of suck to put a grigri on with the two gates.

[@roo3515]

The table top video setup is great for anything small. I have the dmm ceros. I've also come to like the action once I got it dialled. My climbing partners have Givel CLEPSYDRA L's . They are great also but I feel like it's typically more awkward to feed a belay device in past those flippers.

[@SethSchneiderw]

I love your videos. How well does the Edelrid HMS Eco work in the Giga Jul? How well does it lock the ropes? I have a regular HMS Bulletproof, and it locks okay, but not as well as other carabiners. Also do you find that there needs to be different carabiners for different diameter ropes in the giga Jul? Like there isn't a best biner that has the best result across all diameters?

[@robertbaeza5299]

Sincerely thank you for souch content, I have been watching your videos and content for a while and reference others and always come back to yours. Top rope solo, trad gear, gear review, rope systems, alpine applications, rope systems etc... so much knowledge, thank you. You probably saved a ton of people by putting out good info.

[@drstrangelove85]

Great video! One small addition: Edelrid clearly that one needs two sliders to attach yourself to the rope for glacier travel. They do not recommend to put a munter hitch in a carabiner with a slider at all. So your intuition was right. Source: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mmm3aH19a5lkqtk (video is in German but there are English subtitles) edit: the subtitles are really crappy but I can understand German :(

[@Nihilimus]

Really good overview, thank you. Somewhat related question: Have you ever used one of AustriAlpin's slide autolock carabiners? It's a (I think) unique attempt at a locking solution. They do have a belay loop version, called the HMS Rondo Slide Autolock Selfie, but they are in team lets-put-the-wire-gate-the-wrong-way-around.

[@ryantilley9063]

I know about those carabiners, and they look kind of cool, I may end up buying some one of these days.

[@sablinger]

Best Belay-HMS i´ve used so far is the snappy CT (Climbing Technology) Concept TGL. Perfectly sized, round bar stock that fits the gigajul , smooth but strong Triple Action with springloop to prevent it from rotating and also only 80 grams. Would highly recommend it.

[@tjb8841]

It looks like it has the cross loading gate open the wrong way though? (Not an issue for actual belaying, but for the use we talk about here: tying in to the rope)

[@orangeempathy]

Have you tried the mammut smart hms?

[@ryantilley9063]

I'm not to much of a fan of that, I just feel like it's a little to clunky, and that closing arm seems like it can fail easily over the course of a long day.

[@namelastname2449]

Im here for the content and the voice which cancels out my kid shouting all the time 🤣

[@miwindowguy]

Curious, I personally like DMM Perfect O’s for my GriGri. I use a triple action one with a captive eye pin. I have the pin screwed in and it stays on belay loop. It’s a great size if you want to stay compact.

[@ryantilley9063]

Ya that would be a really good carabiner for a Grigri, and a clever way to keep it from cross-loading.

[@TheMountainRN]

Great review. Couldn’t find the link to your other video

[@ryantilley9063]

Oh sorry, I forgot to add the link into the description, just did that take a look again!

[@jeremiasandrade5123]

You should check out the Ocun condor HMS triple locker. Its very similar to the DMM.

[@ryantilley9063]

Wow, I didn't know that existed, I think that just made the cart!

[@jonathanzimm5511]

I have the clepsydra s and it fits my grigri very well. I really like how little it can move in it

[@tjb8841]

Same here. The grigri (and similar devices) is also the only one where I really worry much about cross loading. Normal belay devices it’s never been a problem. I also use the Clepsydra S for tying in to the rope like Ryan says.

[@paljano1]

Have you worked with balllocks? They are the recommended carabiners for glacier travel in the german alpine association and are considered to be the safest option. Althou i don‘t know of any balllock carabiners that are directional.