Thanks for this! I've been climbing since 1994 and have never rope soloed yet! Im going all next week!

Lighter = faster = safer

If youcant place a spring loaded cam your dumb. F these videos grab a rack and practice in the boulders

What’s the difference between the G2SM and the G2 Evo ? Do they fit the same ?

Great video, this definetly answer the rest of the questions I had

The idea of stripping the sheath (8:05) raises a question outside of fixed-point-belays. E.g. with a grigri off the belay loop. If the belayer is attached to the anchor with a PAS, the grigri probably sees the same force as in your colleague's test. If the belayer is clove-hitched in with the rope, the force is reduced, but would the clove hitch desheath the rope ? I'm guessing a new rope in perfect condition is fine either way. But with worn ropes, it's not clear which anchor attachment would be safer.

Great video, again! But there’s one thing I’m not sure you explained right: The curve of a shaft doesn’t make it „T“ rated, it is its strength and its ability (same with the pick) to be cranked on in mixed or drytooling situations. At least that’s what I read about in a DAV (German alpine club) publication. Furthermore I’d like to add that the best ice tools, the same as the best (rock climbing)-shoes, are those you’re familiar with. There’s no use in the fanciest new stuff if you don’t know how it’s going to react to the input you give in or how they feel when they’re just about to give way. And just to add: I was very happy seeing the cobras. I bought a pair second hand for getting into ice climbing, the older version with the orange metal shaft. Just to find out out afterwards that they’re exactly what I might need for what I have in mind for the next years. The are accompanied by a grivel air tech evo, the predecessor of the sum‘tecs spot. But does anyone know, wether the picks of the newer version will fit the older versions head? (Will ask this on Reddit too, drives me a bit nuts)

i have a question, with what clothes do you sleep inside the bag? assuming the temperature is on par with the confort rating. thanks

Great video! Exactly what I was looking for!

I am aurprised you didn't mention Quarks, is that necause your Conras fit the same niche?

great video, thank you!! v much appreciated how you break down the tool pairings by climb and season too. I know you mentioned dry tool cragging can get more specific but out of your quiver do you think the reactors (or nomics) would be the best fit?

Thank you so much, great video!

I appreciate the safety but..the whole system looks so cumbersome.

Thanks for your comprehensive video. It is hard to think of a question that you did not answer. They only thing that comes to mind: when to put your axe on a leash and when not to do that?

Super short ice axe handle might not be completely dumb. DMM makes one like that, the Flux. It's 35cm long. Also, I remember seeing that Kilian Jornet cut a Camp Corsa down even shorter to basically just use for daggering

One of your best videos Ryan!

I'm suspecting the "finger on top" method with the grigri really twist my rope. It's really noticeable on multi pitches where I'll start getting into trouble already on the second pitch. So if you can belay from above with the Neox it could be a worth a ipdate for me

You got any advice for last 3 weeks of training for a Mt baker 6 day course? I have mild plantar fasciitis right now and haven't done any muscular endurance training, just strength and z1/2. I'm mildy in shape.

I appreciate any honest sharing of one's situation, reassessment of one's participation in the expanding universe of Internet feuds, etc. Regarding the current online information flood, the medium is in many ways too egalitarian, and unless one has some experience to sift through the good, bad, and ugly, it can be dangerously confusing for any novice. For better or worse, the AMGA here has grown into the de facto "Official Church" of all matters pertinent to Climbing Safety, only relatively recently, circa early 1990's, and its establishment was not without fits and debates. Meetings of well-known climbers led to some organizing, eventually combining with Canadian guides who already had a far longer relationship with the Alpine guiding groups in Europe, there dating well over a century. Before the groups coordinated, the laissez faire attitudes in the U.S. kept the dominant guide areas as good-natured rivals, the main ones around Rainier in the Northwest, Exum in the Tetons, and a handful of college-affiliated clubs like the Iowa or Dartmouth and Harvard climbers, and the Appalachian Mountain Club. The American Alpine Club was more an honorary group of members accepted, after establishing credentials elsewhere. As the modern climbing scene was changing, liability jeopardized small independents, and individuals; the organization, and establishment of the AMGA provided a structure for certifications that satisfied officious types, even as the founders with fifty years experience often had no credentials per se (Glenn Exum taught HS music nine months of the year). The founding members were generally grandfathered into the Certification process, but today the approach to teaching and guiding is very different from the old, less structured master mentor/student approach. Without guide certification, my 55 years experience isn't an automatic entry into the AMGA system. Rapid changes in technical gear, difficulty standards, and attitudes create an overload of information that is not necessarily filtered through experienced minds. Equipment is UIAA certified, but proper usage is not absolute, and too often a fad in anchor system building or belay methods garners attention without independent assurance that the presentation is accurate or safe. Getting feedback and advice from others with at least several years experience is strongly recommended, regarding both equipment and proper techniques, if one hopes to have a long and safe career in climbing. A very informative history of the AMGA is here: amga.com/harnessing-the-beast-amga-history/

I love the title of this video 😂 Hope you’re doing well man

After an amazing ice season, including my first climbing trip to the Canadian Rockies, I'm just finally accepting it's rock season. Why'd you have have to go and stoke the ice climbing part of my brain!

I hope I get the fancy box when my NEOX (does Petzl insist on the CAPS?) arrives. Placed an order on their website the other day.

Nice thumbnail! I instantly noticed!

I find your opinions on things are well thought out. Really enjoy your videos and I’m excited to see how you feel about the new device. I’m also stoked to see petzl thinks highly of your content too or so it seems if they sent you some expensive stuff haha

Love to know what you think about it once you're able to use it some more. I used one tonight for a few hours and I think I still prefer my Revo for single pitch climbing but I do think this is likely a more robust unit. The packaging and warnings that came along with the Revo make me treat it pretty gingerly ...

I remember that day at Cochise, that was a great send 👊

Supporting 🤘. Free gift please

Am a licensed EMT. I was hoping I could add wilderness (for SAR) without going through a month+ course again. Thanks for information.

Why are you clipping directly into the screw above instead of the anchor knot?

Those are some things that can attract the kind of people that like social drama. Which can often end up being your primary audience, which would be people that thrive on negative criticism and insulting people. 1: Videos that criticize other KZbin channels or what they said in a video. Which often was instigated by requests to get your view on the channel or video. 2: Criticizing viewer comments on your videos. I have unsubscribed and left channels that do that. One channel, they were playing hide and seek, in their business building and the guy used a infrared heat sensing meter to find the others. I said that was cheating in the comments. It makes it too easy. And they actually replied and said, "this person obviously didn't watch the video!" I never watched another video since. It isn't a good idea, unless you can say something more inspiring than the viewer said.

Short guy is fire. I do wish less crap was put out by people who doesnt know jack about state of the art but I appreciate quality content creators and educate myself enough to recognise them. Maybe collab with youtubers you respect and lift the bar for the rest of the "industry".

You’re doing great! We appreciate you

omg who is this beast of a man that you have as a climbing partner!?

U a real one Ryan, never stop doing things the right way

Critiquing self work or other people's is really important. Often times we learn lot more from talking about mistakes than from teaching correct method. I found the "rant" and breakdown videos quite useful in that it gave a perspective to think about but in this day and age mistakes and talking about them are almost taboo. Everybody is getting too sensitive. I wish if people found something not to their liking, critique constructively or just move on. It is quite easy to do. I will miss those videos since in my opinion it was well done, I found no personal attacks and even if I may not agree with some points I would have loved to hear a different perspective from an experienced guide such as yourself. And sometimes it validates ones own thinking as well. But I will keep coming for your real amazing content and I will support the channel in any way I can. I truly benefit from channels such as this rather than watching for just the entertainment.

I didn’t see the video you refer to, so I won’t comment about that. I do feel I’ve learned a lot from your videos and I am very grateful. I watch Yann Camus at bliss climbing, JB skills, I bought Dave Macleod’s climbing course and I follow you and I value you all. I started climbing at 58, had some health issues but got back into it regularly over the past few years and am working with a local guide to do more climbing outside starting with multi-pitch sport. I learn from the coach but an also learn a lot from you and JB - and then review it with my local guide. Thank you for all your work putting videos together and for sharing your expertise.

The vids are all great, also the rant. Im learning a lot from them. Keep them flowing :-)

I think of your page as the American version of JB mountain skills, How not 2’s page is awesome too however, though I like their break tests a bunch and go to your page or JB mountain skills for the more skill oriented videos

Love the common sense, no bling and glitz or crazy music, and straightforward skills instruction through a calm and effective approach. I teach adults myself and I say your methodology is good. Some people can teach well and some people have a lot of skills but you have both and many of us appreciate that. Keep it going, Ryan.

I've only been following your channel for a while now. But it's a great source of information for me. Especially the crevasse rescue videos. For example, our alpine school uses a very similar method to yours (maybe a bit different, but works just as well). However we lack maneuvers for thinner ropes. Any bit of information that's new to me (such as knots) is very useful. I can just combine that with what I already know. So please don't take down those videos :) Greetings from Slovenia btw.

I find your instruction really good. I watch a lot of videos, not going to name channels, but I agree with the brain fog comment, and your rant was probably warranted. Many of them are not as well put together and although not wrong, they don’t explain why something is or give a more detailed reasoning. They also don’t present alternatives like you do. I think sometimes they’re borderline wrong, but it’s kind of the grey area where its not directly unsafe but it could easily be made better. Or they’re doing something in a very inefficient way. Anyways keep doing what you’re doing, some good vibes coming your way. Hope work picks up more, and thanks for that cat at the end, that cracked me up.

Your vids are great! Keep up the good work..!!

It´s alright Ryan. who knows, maybe there´s a collaboring effort with other channels to discuss different approaches and thoughts.

Sharing your opinion, on your own page, shouldn’t be something you have to apologize for. It’s obvious that you have a true passion for climbing and even the industry, and just want people to climb safely, and with what you deem to be the correct information.

No apology!!!!!!

I think it's good to give your thoughts and warnings on these things, you did it respectfully. You have me curious what the comments were. I actually unsubscribed from hownot2, getting annoying.

No apology is necessary, Ryan. I love your videos. You are a great teacher and instructor. I've learned a lot from your videos.

Very well rounded and level headed response thank you you’re channel has been great for me. the rant video didn’t come off too well but this was well said

Since you know you're going to have to pass a knot, why not rig up with a non-extended rappel and a VT on top? If you attach the VT to your adjustable lanyard, then you're already most of the way done when you get to the knot.

Love the video, info and presentation style as always. Thanks Ryan! Any word on that tether comparison video with the Edelrid Switch?