Hobby Cheating 02 - Undershading & Glazes

[@PartisanGerm]

This is exactly the beginner painting tutorial I've been looking for EIGHT months. I've watched almost everything from Tabletop Minions and Miniac, but this one takes the cake. Thank you!!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful! Always happy to assist. :)

[@scottrenfer2735]

Hi Vince, I just wanted to say that you are THE BEST!!!! Wishing you a wonderful weekend, and sending a huge thank you for all the great tutorials that you make for us! ~Scott

[@VinceVenturella]

Wow, thank you!

[@rmorris4598]

15th century Flemish painters used this same technique to create their great masterpiece works. The underpainting layer is called a grisaille. They would do their entire painting in shades of gray and then glaze in the color. On a flat surface it creates a true sense of three-dimensionality and can give the painting an almost glowing quality. It can be the same thing with figures. I paint all my figures in oil and use the exact same technique. The general idea is to make the figure look like a marble statue. So the initial underpainting becomes the most critical part of painting the figure. You can either create a glaze or just as often I drybrush transparent oils over it. I know with this crowd I’m a heathen for suggesting painting figures all in oil. But you can get great results for display pieces.

[@bodotrenaud7441]

R Morris Glad to see I am not completely crazy, I recently picked up mini painting has a hobby starting from nothing and when deciding which paint to start learning I choose oil. Then as I started to dip deep in the hobby that most people actual use acrylic paint. So basically I am now switching between oil paint tutorials and acrylic miniature tutorials to learn. After my fourth mini I am currently planning how do I paint a fire giant with OSL and after a few days of reflection I arrived to something similar to what to you describe. Undercoat of with white and black with red for the OSL area then use a grey glaze to coat to create the black skin. Not really sure if it will work but I will give it a try this weekend.

[@MegaLadysman1234]

Always nice to see someone else with a solid art background who understands the interplay between materials and mediums. Would you happen to have any pictures of the miniatures you've worked on to share? I'd love to see them!

[@Mordraqq]

I would like to know how thin I have to make the oil paints,how much thinner do I have to use?

[@shaunyams]

Got any links for your work or others who use this technique?

[@maxbrandt6]

I'm glad I didn't 'glaze' over this video, most useful info! This is really going to help with figures with robes and cloaks.

[@alexwhyte78]

It’s so worth going back and watching these videos. When your core knowledge changes, it’s like watching a new video. I’m noticing things I missed first time

[@VinceVenturella]

That's great to hear, I often shudder at the quality of my early videos (and the late videos for that matter) - but i am glad to hear they are helpful.

[@alexwhyte78]

Vince Venturella they’re so helpful. Especially to come back and hear it again with a fresh perspective. Like your how to paint linen video I watched again today and the part about cold and warm purple made more sense now than when I watched months ago

[@SythyrDraconic]

Thank you for breaking this down into Explain Like I’m Five type simplicity, and showing the full painting process instead of just select cuts. I’ve been doing the whole zenithal prime/extra white drybrush on key areas thing for a couple years now… and then still throwing my paint on nearly full thickness. Going back and doing a second coat to make it "thick enough" or "cover enough", and then being confused why there didn’t seem to be overly much improvement from a straight black (or grey, or white) prime. It’s only been in the past couple weeks it’s really finally clicked how I wasn’t taking advantage of the undercoat, and sort of figuring out what to change. I wish I found this video like 48 models ago, this is straightforward helpful simplicity itself. :) Thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help.

[@benjamincliman2735]

This is super helpful, thank you for posting. I really like the fact that you took the time to explain the relative ratios of the glaze ingredients, and the kind of desired consistency to look for, which makes it the best glazing tutorial that I've seen.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful! :)

[@michaelbronnenberg4671]

As a beginner painter I just want to say thank you for sharing your knowledge. These videos have helped me understand painting so much more.....Thank you

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, that is much appreciated and always happy to help. :)

[@federico1263]

I cant' stress enough how much your videos are useful to me. Thanks.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

[@nukecorruption6]

This is simply the best video I've ever seen about miniature painting.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, that is very much appreciated. :)

[@Bassmunchkin1]

@Vince Venturella this is a fantastic technique that's getting me really excited about what else I will learn from all of your other priceless videos. You explain in such a way that gives us newbies a lot of confidence, so I really appreciate the effort and time that you spend creating these excellent videos for us all

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, that is very much appreciated and I am always happy to assist.

[@erc1971erc1971]

I am a very new painter. After watching many videos on the subject, I was referred here by John from Tabletop Witchcraft. This is the first video of yours I watched, and by far the most useful I have ever seen. Thinner and Glaze medium on order, and I can't wait to put them to use and finally make use of the Zenithal I have been completely covering up in the past.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, I have covered this in more details in more videos, check these out below. Unusual Zenithals: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqDGY3qagZd_rJY Warm Zenithals: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHeneaOMf86BeZI True Metals: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKq7Y51_etKLgK8 Zenithal & Glazes: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gF7HgohjmbiBl5o

[@erc1971erc1971]

@@VinceVenturella I finally got around to trying this out - I used the technique to paint green flesh on an orc mini. This one video allowed me to produce better results than 3 months of practice and over 10 hours of using techniques from other youtube videos. Thank you so much!

[@eggmania83]

Thank you Vince for your excellent explanation of the zenithal highlighting technique. Another fab video.

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent. thank you and always happy to help.

[@Hushai1979]

Vary interesting… what a blessing… thank you… the shading and highlights… so good. you made it look easy… excellent teaching.. from Aiken South Carolina

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@supernovastudio4822]

Fantastic, had no idea you could get that kind of effect so quickly and easily. I guess things are so much simpler with the right knowledge. I particular like the idea of utilizing a combination of an airbrush and paintbrush. I will be practicing these techniques this weekend, thank you very much!

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, there are lots of videos in this series on this theme. It's the normal way I paint and it's really amazing what you can do so quickly.

[@caliere]

This is awesome - thanks a lot! Hear a lot about glacing but only now see how it's done. Looking forward to the next video.

[@VinceVenturella]

+Smallpox Thank you very much, more vids will be coming, fear not, I have a long list. As always, if there is anything that you want to see, feel free to suggest.

[@caliere]

+Vince Venturella I'm looking forward to anything on airbrush. I bought one two months ago but don't feel I've got the hang of it yet. Too much fiddling around and cleaning. Some cheats here will be super helpful for sure.

[@tomvisser2807]

You have caused me to rethink my painting habits. I was taught to prime black and start with base coats and work up the highlights.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad to hear. The reality is, there are lots of different technical way to attack the miniatures and achieve a painted miniature. None of them are innately better, but they could be better for you depending on your goals, style and time.

[@johnkelley9877]

Great technique! I had never thought of making the paint into a glaze but the results speak for themselves. I will certainly try this on my own figures. Thanks for sharing this information.

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help. Ironic that you would watch and comment on 2 videos today, one about thinning your paints way down for good effect and one about not thinning them at all. Shows that there are many ways to achieve the same end result. :)

[@MegaLadysman1234]

For someone just finding this video now, it's worth noting that you can punch up the level of saturdation when it comes to doing the undershading followed by transparent layer technique by using an acrylic ink. Inks have fantastic saturation and vibrancy while being very transparent. This can give your natural highlights from the underlayer a lot of color and punch, while maintaing those dark shadows.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, as you go on in the playlist, I have many videos on using inks over this type of undershading. :)

[@GeneralKetchup57]

One of the best basic videos ever! I really expect this to help speed up and improve my painting!

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help as always. :) - There is a lot more in this series on this topic, as it's one of my favorite ways to paint.

[@GeneralKetchup57]

I see, just found your channel and looking forward to watching all weekend at work:) I've watched probably 200 youtube videos on painting (brush and airbrushing) and already have a couple of great tricks from you after only 2 videos:)

[@aponly]

Thanks for this. Best explanation for why I need to use a glaze and do a zenithal shading I've seen.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

[@OnceBitten360]

I'm excited for this series of videos!

[@VinceVenturella]

+OnceBitten360 As am I sir, it's something I have been wanting to do for a while, finally decided to stop being lazy - oh and also got a camera that could actually record this decently ;)

[@skarlocthewanderer1696]

+OnceBitten360 Still looking forward your Tomb Kings army.. painted I mean!

[@Jokreher]

I've used this technique. I also will prime black and then dry brush white over that. the thinner layers of white blend with the black to make a very neutral grey while the sharpest points and edges will have a heavier layer of white. That was the technique I used for my Gandalf figure, but I didn't get my grey base coat thin enough and it destroyed the effect.

[@VinceVenturella]

+Jon Kreher So the trick is that the more white the color is, the less this will work, because the surface layer has white (reflective) that will interfere with showing through the undercolor. So you would have better luck going all the way up to very bright white and then using something closer to black or german grey. You make an excellent point that you can also do this over drybrushing, or really any other application of the color. I will talk about that in some later vids as well.

[@ajmiller3rd]

Great video - just getting into painting miniature and have been priming they like yours but have not been glazing them. Will do like you in the future - it will improve my technique and save me loads of time.

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, I just put up a video today deeper diving on glazes, so if you want to see more on it, check that out. Always happy to help. :)

[@milozdu1366]

Hey, Vince another really helpful video for a novice painter like me. I have a couple of possible Hobby Cheating requests 1) Painting lenses on goggles/ masks etc. 2) A bit more ephemeral/ theoretical but something along the lines of maximising/ pushing contrast.

[@VinceVenturella]

Both very good suggestions! I will add them both to the list.

This technique is so great. Would love to see a few color on minis examples where this method has been used. Especially examples of different skin tones.

[@VinceVenturella]

Sure, it's certainly something I will return to frequently.

[@darthmagnus8855]

I think this video finally just beat into my head how to properly apply glazes. I've been trying different things with various levels of this or that, but nothing quite worked (even strait glazes). I think I've finally got a handle on the how and what to look for. I've got plenty of other 3d printed stuff primed and zenithal highlighted ready to go. (And funny enough, I always did apply a grey layer even tho this is the first video to tell me to do it!) Thank you!

[@dreadtrain2846]

Hi Vince! Love your channel. I was wondering, in lieu of an airbrush, can I just drybrush my zenithal highliights after the original black primer (with a rattle can). And do I need to use an actual primer after the initial black primer (or whatever color) or can I use a regular base/layer paint for the zenithal?

[@VinceVenturella]

You can just use a drybrush of white or near white paint, no issue at all.

[@Nixx2709]

I consider myself an advanced beginner/beginner intermediate painter even after rekindling my Warhammer painting hobby, so am always looking for more tips and insights. I've recently bought an airbrush so learning about zenithal highlighting, but never occured to me to apply it like you did in this video. I had a "woah" moment when I saw how great that cloak looked after the 2 coats of the same color. Thanks for this video, it's really great and hope to apply it soon.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, glad to hear it. It really does make for some quick and great looking outcomes fast, which is great when you need to get an army on the table. :)

[@Diegan]

Due to the fact that I live in Uruguay, my supply is limited, I mostly bring stuff from US when I travel. I have many valllejo game color paints (30-40), as well as glaze medium, metallic medium and airbrush thinner, and distilled water of course. With those materials, what would be a good mixing formula for creating a glaze? Could I also create a wash?

[@VinceVenturella]

You have everything you need. It varies by paint, but generally washes are water and glaze medium maybe 1-2 to 1 with paint, and glazes are more like 4-5 to 1. The real key is to test first - use the thumb trick. Put a little white paint on your thumb and then take some of your wash or glaze and run a thin layer over that white strip on your thumb and see how much it covers - that is how it will cover on your miniature. The other element that is important, when dealing with very watery paints like this, always make sure you wick the excess off your brush before you put it on the miniature (i.e. touch your brush to the paper towel to get excess fluid out).

[@Diegan]

I am missing the thinner medium (that thing that looks like PVA en in the video when you pour it). Wont that affect my glazes?

[@VinceVenturella]

Thinner helps, but it's not absolutely necessary, your paints may just get a little glossy so you would have to back it out with a dull cote at the end. The thinner is a nice thikener that keeps the paint from going too watery or out of control, but you can compensate. I would pick it up when you can, but it's not a must have.

[@Diegan]

Thank you very much. Then I will experiment with 1 drop of vallejo paint, 1 drop of vallejo glaze medium, and X drops of vallejo airbrush thinner, until I get a good consistency. I will try this technique (zenithal + glaces) very soon, and show you my results! I cant thank you enough for your ideas, have a long way to go, to visit all your videos. I am hoping a miniature painted in this way can still have some strong, vibrant colors.

[@LegionsAU]

One thing I love to do is preshade in heavy whites and blacks, either with inks or with my airbrush, before spraying the thinned base colours lightly over the top. Its not so much about saving time, as about helping control lighting and shadow. :)

[@VinceVenturella]

+Micky Ward Yep, if nothing else, it shades your colors and gives you a map to follow. It's just a useful technique and once you understand how to utilize those under colors, you can do more with advanced techniques as well.

[@LegionsAU]

Vince Venturella One thing I've tried recently on KD:M figures is using monochrome preshading to define the tone and shade of the models, and then use thinned flesh tones to just add some tint of colour over the top

[@VinceVenturella]

+Micky Ward Yep, I like to do that flesh tone not with black and white, but with Chocolate brown to ivory, it has the right tone for flesh and creates the same effect.

[@LegionsAU]

First time I tried doing it with flesh tones (not done much flesh before honestly), so took a lot of time and many many layers to get it right.

[@jon5716]

These are some of the best tutorials I have found for painting for beginners. One problem I have been having with mixing white with colors. I am using citadel paints and whenever I try to lighten for example a blue like you said, the white separates from the blue and creates a weird pattern of pigments as it dries on the model and becomes chalky and it also separates on the palette. Do you have an suggestions for this? I ordered the heavy body acrylic you recommend in the painting white video in hopes that helps. Thank you so much for these videos!

[@VinceVenturella]

You could also try Pro Acryl whites, they are great.

[@RadioFreeHammerhal]

.... well I guess that's going to be a run to the hobby store on my way home today... I can't believe how easy that is.

[@VinceVenturella]

+Paul Conti Here to help buddy, you can season that to taste as well, Apply a few more layers to darken, or mix like a said to push the highlights or lowlights up. Either way, then you are only making slight adjustments, not trying to build the whole thing from scratch.

[@jpf338]

Men I'm so glad that I found this channel. Do you have a patreon or something? I'm currently an student with no job, but when I got one for sure I will donate money to this channel.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well thank you. Nope, I do not have a patreon or anything, I mainly do this because I just love teaching. THe best thing you can do for me right now is just watch and share and of course comment with any way I can help you. :)

[@manga3040]

Man an airbrush seems like it would be awesome. I hear only good things. I am new to warhammer though and still painting my first army. Would you say it's better to master brush painting 1st then invest in an airbrush?

[@VinceVenturella]

+manga3040 I would say it's best to invest as per what you feel comfortable with. It's another tool and technique. I think it's a highly valuable one, but the better you learn color theory, highlighting and all the techniques of either, the better you will be with either. My advice would be to take it at your own speed. There is a fair investment (usually

[@raffaelemargara578]

Hi Vince, what is the difference between Glaze medium of Vallejo and Lahman and Contrast medium of GW? Thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

They are actualy quite similar, they are both acrylic medium with some additives (namely a little flow improver and a little retardent), but I am not sure of the exact ratios and that is likely the difference.

[@Phil-pu9iy]

Thanks for the video. Can I use Lahmian medium as a Glaze Medium or do I need something more specific?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes you can!

[@cfcoachkev]

Omfg! That was a real eye-opener! Thanks a bunch, mate!!!

[@VinceVenturella]

+Kevin Lorenz It is hard for me to overstate how often I use this technique. It's a real time saver and powerful tool for realistic blending.

[@cfcoachkev]

It's magic but sooo logical! I've ordered different cans right away. Sooo looking forward to try this out on my Skaven Plague Monks!

[@VinceVenturella]

+Kevin Lorenz They would be awesome for this with those big robes. Use a very thin deep green (something without any white - if you want to lighten it, mix in a yellow, as that is a translucent way to lighten things) and go, you should see great results. You could also use Ivory or bone as your final highlight, which will change the look of the green glaze.

[@cfcoachkev]

Sounds awesome! Have to wait for a few things to get delivered, but will post pictures in the PmP group asap.

[@evil7ash]

Wow! That was awesome! I had no idea painting to a decent standard could be that easy! Wish I had seen one of those before I painted up my 7000 points of Orcs and Goblins. BTW, you did not mention green in your vid. Does it mean green is not the best color for this technique? I mean, things like Savage Orcs - is it doable this way? Thanks for the vid!

[@VinceVenturella]

+evil7ash Yes, you can do green this way, but there are some tricks to it. 1) You can run a yellow glaze first, just like a did. You will have a weird bright orc, but you can then use a dark green (one lacking most any white) very thin to tint it green, the result should be a bright orc skin with that yellow-green tint 2) You can do just a very thin dark green, which will give you a purely green tone orc. The real key is you don't want any white in the colors you do this with. White, as I mentioned, reflects light instead of absorbing it. The more white that is in your glaze, the more it will show on it's own and prevent the color underneath from coming through.

[@jackmccann2880]

Hey Vince, I'm looking at getting an airbrush and I was thinking of getting some tyranids to try out the zenithal with glazing technique. I'm looking to do a hive fleet leviathan scheme but replacing the red carapace with blue. Would the black/grey/white zenithal work for this scheme or would you need a more warm colour in there for the fleshy bits? Thanks

[@jackmccann2880]

Sorry, meant to say hive fleet kraken!

[@VinceVenturella]

If you are going Kraken but with a color swap to blue, I would make my top color a more warm ivory. That won't hurt the blue at all, but will make it so you can just wash the flesh with a 50/50 mix of seraphim sepia and flesh wash and get a good instant flesh tone (it will likely take two applications.)

[@jackmccann2880]

@@VinceVenturella fantastic, thanks mate

[@VictorQues]

Great video Vince, very useful.

[@VinceVenturella]

+Victor Ques (Neojarlaxe) Thank you sir, I have a long way to go to get to your level of hobby tips ;)

[@VictorQues]

+Vince Venturella To be fair with you I never used the technique you are showing in this video.

[@brandonhuss350]

I'm loving these videos more and more as I watch them. These techniques will definitely take my painting to the next level. Question; Do you think the same technique could be used for Black Armor? Probably really a charcoal grey, but close to black.

[@VinceVenturella]

+Brandon Huss Yes, though it's tricky. Black is a tough color to work with and I have a hobby cheating planned specifically for this.

[@brandonhuss350]

+Vince Venturella Great, I want to paint some Slaanesh Warriors with a black armor paint scheme but don't want to do black with a gloss varnish. I look forward to seeing the video.

[@npwroblewski]

I feel like red is tricky here despite being fairly transparent. Glazing red is strange and frustrating to me. Could preshading with beige/yellow and brown possibly work like monochome zenithal does for green/purple/blue/pink?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, that is one of the ways I have done it and it makes red beyond quick and easy. You can also just lay down your Black/Grey, then coat the whole thing in sepia ink, then just do an ivory from above and your red will go on like butter.

[@hobbithubby5076]

Would you use glazes when using metallic paints on armor too?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, usually with inks, over the metallics, I have several videos about it. Here is one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIO8mJmAebN_aM0

[@christopherknox]

I had a lot of problems with this method. I found that when I used thinner medium in the paint mix, it dissolved the primer layer into the blue layer and made a huge mess of the cape. When I used just the glaze medium and water, the results were much better (though still nothing like the results in this video). It appears that I am fighting multiple issues with this, even though I am paying careful attention to his procedures (down to the drop).

[@VinceVenturella]

Hmmm..That's strange. Some thoughts and questions, as I have never had that happen. First, what primer are you using? What is the material you are painting (i.e. resin, plastic, metal, bones)? How long are you letting the primer dry? Are you wicking off the excess liquid of the glaze? Any of that might be contributing.

[@christopherknox]

In order to eliminate issues that I felt like I could control, I used every element in your video, down to the Chaos Warrior and all paint brands, glaze, thinner, etc. It's possible that my error has something to do with being heavy on the flow with the airbrush. It's also possible that I should have waited longer on the primer. One thing I didn't see you do, however, (and it's something you must have done), is avoiding the highlighted areas after the first glaze or two, otherwise you end up covering them completely. Example: If you're going to glaze more than a couple of layers, you should avoid the highlighted areas on subsequent layers to avoid covering the light tones beneath completely. Unfortunately, I’m not able to post images here, as that would probably clear things up rather quickly. Any chance you offer paid tutor services. 😂

[@christopherknox]

Perhaps scratch the glaze avoidance issue. I see now that the issue there is that your white highlights are far more powerful than what I was doing, and therefore could stand up to the multiple coats of glaze.

[@nc8918]

Another great video! My painter friends also thank you;) Do you think it could also have a good rendering using an ink (like scale75 inktensity inks) instead of this mix?

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely, if you look at later videos where I explore this (I come back to this quite often in the playlist) I use inks quite often, they are perfect for this.

[@enensis]

awesome video thanks.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, much appreciated.

[@mitchb3956]

This was really helpful, gotta try this. Thanks

[@VinceVenturella]

+Mitch B Thank you much, glad to help.

[@mitchb3956]

I've been looking into the airbrush and compressors, there seems to be a million on the market. What would you recommend?

[@VinceVenturella]

+Mitch B THe link below is where you should start. It's not a great airbrush, but I wouldn't recommend a nice car for a new driver either ;) Realistically, you need that, some Airbrush Thinner (I like Vallejo) and some Airbrush cleaner (I like Iwata). That will get you started with the basics. Pick up some of the Vallejo primer and/or model/game airs (the primer being most important, as you can do the Zenithal trick with the thinned primers alone). All told, you can get started for around $100-$120. That airbrush will get you learning. Take care of it and clean it well and you will get to the point where you can confidently make a larger investment. Airbrush: www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Multi-purpose-Dual-action/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1445400356&sr=8-2&keywords=master+airbrush Cleaner: www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-8-oz/dp/B001BHGD9S Thinner: www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ71061-Thinner-32ml/dp/B007D1R6QU/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1445400589&sr=1-1&keywords=vallejo+airbrush+thinner

[@cfcoachkev]

I've a question: If you have model you only partly assemble, e.g. you keep the left arm off, do you put the model together using blue-tack and put the primer on or do you prime the elements separately holding them in roughly the right angle?

[@VinceVenturella]

+Kevin Lorenz Depends on the subassemblies. If we are talking about a rider and a mount for example, I prime them separately (i.e. if they are wholly separate elements of the figure). If we are talking about something like an arm, a component of the actual model, then yes, I would blue tack and zenithal then remove again.

[@cfcoachkev]

Ace! Thanks, mate!!!

[@soerenheriksen]

Can you also glaze with metallic paint?

[@VinceVenturella]

Not really, the pigment being metallic and opaque means to look like metal, it has to be evenly distributed and thick, when you thin it down like that, it just looks like glitter.

[@SilentBob1219]

What's the difference between thinner medium and glaze medium? Would airbrush thinner from vallejo be a substitute for the thinner medium? Thanks!

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes it would, as to the difference between the two, it's basically some additives that make it glaze medium, some flow improver and similar elements.

[@SilentBob1219]

@@VinceVenturella thank you Vince I appreciate it. Watched all your videos so far. I have a lot of time to watch but very little to paint these days. Hope that changes soon. Last question, so to follow your guide I would use the paint, the glaze medium, and a little bit of the airbrush thinner right? Also, is the only difference between the glaze medium and thinner medium only the retarder added in the glaze medium?

[@VinceVenturella]

@@SilentBob1219 Correct, I will also say, if you want a more full treatment on the subject, check out this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gF7HgohjmbiBl5o

[@SilentBob1219]

@@VinceVenturella thanks again checking it out now. I appreciate you supporting some of your older videos. A lot of us discover these videos a little late. :)

[@travisellis9230]

One thing that wasn't clear to me with the zenithal highlights. Do you only spray at a roughly 45 degree angle from a single direction or do you rotate the figure all the way around and spray at that angle?

[@VinceVenturella]

All the way around, you are replicating diffuse light bouncing off everything. So you want a 45 degree angle grey. Then white from above.

[@hl1796]

i got a problem when doing this, the paint just...break up and flow all over the place instead do a smooth glaze like this.... did i over thing or just load too much paint ?

[@VinceVenturella]

Could be many things, the paint could be too thin, you might not be wicking away the excess, check out this video and it should answer your questions - kzbin.info/www/bejne/hGmbf6d-g9KtZ7M

[@slizerizo]

Hi man! i LOVE you for sharing all these vids! which primers do you use? im currently binge watching ur videos, i watched 27 yesterday!

[@VinceVenturella]

Now that is some serious binge watching and thanks for all the shoutouts during the show. Glad you enjoyed. :) Now as to Primers, I make mention in a few videos, so you will run across it, but I use only two brands of primers. Vallejo (Specifically Vallejo German Panzer Black-Grey) and Stynelez from Badger (multiple colors, but they have a great grey and white.

[@HoovesofDoom]

Awesome Vince. Very nice video and very useful info that I could certainly use. I must say though that this seems like cheating! ;) Also, where is that painting cap and blue putty? And why did you mimic Berry White in the first minute? :)

[@VinceVenturella]

+Hooves of Doom Yeah, something funny happened with the sound there. I would normally paint with the cap, I just happened to be holding it for the video (when I finished him, I did complete him on the cap). I will make sure to use all my proper tools going forward. It's a great technique for quicker painting that still looks good. It doesn't work in every color or on every model, but for big flatish areas like cloaks, it's fantastic.

[@HoovesofDoom]

+Vince Venturella Awesome and I like your intro/exit addition. :)

[@Deamon2293]

hey, first, thank for the great vid, i just have a question to the grey layer, i just dont get, in which angle you do the layer? could you explain it again in the comment section? thanks a lot!

[@VinceVenturella]

The grey is at a 45 degree angle. So you are hitting the miniature at an angle and creating the natural diffusion of light. Hope that helps.

[@ronlouie7171]

@@VinceVenturella Hi Vince!! A followup question on the 45 degree angle: are you airbrushing the grey layer only on the front of the figure? Or are you shooting 45 degrees on all sides of the figure? If you only shot 45 degrees from the front, I would expect the cloak would almost completely black with a little white from airbrushing white from directly above.

[@VinceVenturella]

@@ronlouie7171 45 degrees all around the figure, you are basically trying to capture ambient environmental lighting.

[@ronlouie7171]

@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince!! Great video and explanation. :)

[@Kyleology]

OG slap chop

[@iggysawdust]

Is it still possible to correct painting errors when using this technique? (for example if you overpainted some of the glaze)

[@VinceVenturella]

+iggysawdust It can be tricky, but no more tricky than having some paint go onto an area that you have done layering and blending on (though with much less initial time investment). In general, you will just want to slowly glaze over that area and bring it back into color. It takes a little massaging, but it can be done.

[@thelnorn1]

Will This work with metallic paints...or help with NMM schemes? I don't know if I am ready for that but...

[@VinceVenturella]

+Scott R Metallic paints are a whole different ball game. It's such a dense topic, it has it's own video planned. As to NMM, yes, this is a very good place to start your NMM blending as this will very quickly help you identify where the highlights are you need to be catching (at least to start).

[@thelnorn1]

Thank you. I'm still a little intimidated by the idea of non-metallic metal.

[@VinceVenturella]

+Scott R It's time consuming and not always worth it, but it's very good to try it, as it teaches you lots of good tehniques you can apply elsewhere. There are many, many good tutorials out there, if you try it, just spend some time watching those walk through's first.

[@thelnorn1]

I was looking to do a to Hoffman construct crew and do it in copper.

[@kendrickwhite4868]

🐐

[@MrTrenttness]

♥️

[@daver5120]

So where is hobby cheaing 01?? Not finding it in your list of videos.

[@VinceVenturella]

+Dave R Huh, it's in the playlist for the series, not sure why it isn't showing for you - but it's right here (kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqa4e35risx3kNk)

[@daver5120]

Vince Venturella Thanks Vince. This series is a great idea. Quite frankly time is the biggest obstacle to people fully participating in this hobby.

[@creationsofmadness4867]

any possibilities of updating or redoing these old videos? your production value is much better know.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, I did make another version of this one, but it's still not great, but it's better - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gF7HgohjmbiBl5o

[@marrokwolf1600]

Would love to see how you do nmm

[@VinceVenturella]

+Marrok Wolf I am sure I will do a vid on it at some point, but it will probably be more about how you can use the techniques on TMM to make them look better (probably both).

[@davedogge2280]

Now why aren't GW painting guides as "deep" as yours !

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, it's a different audience. if you started at this stuff, I suspect you might be overwhelmed. Their content is usually targetted at the newer hobbyist or those with serious fear to painting to overcome, so they keep it simple and have a dedicated process. I am glad they do so, as I am sure that they have helped thousands of folks lose the initial fear and pick up the brush. I just hope sometime down the line, when they want to accomplish something else technique wise, I can be there to help. :)

[@MWKRider]

Anyone have a good list of colors that work well for glazing? I can tell you that skin tones, whites, and blacks make horrible glazes in my experience unless there is some way to make them work.

[@VinceVenturella]

So the rule of thumb is anything with a low amount of white, because it's naturally transparent. So it's not the particular color, as much as it's the hue (the shade or tint of that color) - so a dark blue, green, purple will all glaze well, but a light version of those colors might not because they tend to add white to lighten them. Red, Yellow and Orange tend to all glaze fairly easily because they rarely contain white. Flesh and Black can both be used for glazes, but brand and the use of thinner, glaze mediums matters here. I have found Scale 75 and Warcolours glaze easier than most others here. White is just always tough because it's naturally opaque (it reflects all colors in the spectrum) and so will always be difficult. Hope that helps.

[@MWKRider]

That helps a lot. Thank you.

[@orenfox4828]

Comments for the comment god

[@VinceVenturella]

Appreciate.

[@auto1nfanticid3]

wtf, this one is at 777. what trickery is afoot?

[@VinceVenturella]

Apparently, they get to a good number and just stop. :)

[@auto1nfanticid3]

@@VinceVenturella well someone threw a like on this one, but it wasnt me, i was willing to let the sacred numerology persist.

[@rptrj1384]

what happened to your voice?!

[@VinceVenturella]

I think old bad microphone would be the best answer. ;)

[@silentminority2342]

DO NOT USE YOUR THUMB OR SKIN