Hobby Cheating 244 - Using Oils for Skin Tones

[@brianmacgabhann5630]

You often come across people who are very talented in what they do, and often come across people who are generous in sharing their knowledge, but not everyone is both very talented and very generous in sharing that knowledge, so thank you very much for these videos.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well thank you, I am always happy to help. :)

[@kevinmarch5634]

I've watched dozens of your videos, and my new favorite line is "Oil paints are all about the wipey. Lots and lots of wipey wipey wipey." Thank you so much for putting out such informative but straightforward content!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, and always keep up the wipey. :)

[@MrGLeborgne]

Thanks again for sharing ! If you like oils, you should try Abteilung range. They are designed for miniature painting (less seed oil and adapted color range like a skin tones pack). I use them for oil washes but I just received my flesh tones pack because I wanted to give a try. Your video came at a wonderful moment 😉

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, they are on my list to give them a try, I was going to pick them up at Adepticon, but...you know. No Adepticon.

[@andrewlustfield6079]

@@VinceVenturella Have you tried using true metallic metals in oils? I've been gearing up to start with oils and I'd love to see a tutorial on how the TMMs work out with things like painting armor.

[@matthewcook5017]

Vince, this is the SINGLE BEST video I've seen anywhere on this subject - thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@gordonenquist36]

Have read a lot of the comments made here about oils and how "fearful" some painters are. The main concern seems drying time, answer is get a food dehydrator and your oils that needed 48 hours plus to dry now only need about 8 to 12. You can also cure your acrylics in one. A food dehydrator is one appliance that goes up to 104 degrees Fahrenheit, safe for plastics, metal and resin figures or any small hobbies needing faster drying. Thank you Vince for your show and tell about oils. I have used them since the 70's and my oil tubes are still good. Back in the day your paint choices were 4: Testors enamels, Humbrol enamels, Railroad model paints and Oils. Art tube acrylics were thin and weepy ( the ones I found) and took many layers to get a good red. Acrylics have come along way and I like them for base coating faces, animals, leather items and then oils on top. My favorite "cheating" method is that I collect reference faces from magazines. Must have good natural color, have good highlights and shadows. Try to get hands also. Keep this organized in a binder and sooner or later a face on a figure will match your binder, a nice crutch. Cheers

[@shanebirr4033]

so i would like to say thank you. you have actually given me the confidence to try oils. cheers.

[@VinceVenturella]

Fantastic! They are really fun. :)

[@Grumdy]

I've been looking forward to this video for weeks! Wappel has gotten me incredibly excited about painting with oils, and I couldn't wait to see how you used them here too.

[@VinceVenturella]

Hope you enjoy it! :)

[@dusty_gramps443]

What kind of varnish do you use over the acrylics before the oil paint application? Do you varnish over the oils, amd with what Vince?

[@surfacetension4471]

Great Video as always Vince, thank you! It might just be KZbin algorithms but I'm starting to notice a real resurgence of interest in using oils for miniature painting - it's great to see!!

[@VinceVenturella]

I agree, I think we are all just tired of taking a while to get smooth blends. ;)

[@bethanygraham427]

When I use a plate like that, or a little container of wash, I use a bit of blue tac to stop it moving around on my desk.

[@VinceVenturella]

Good call. :)

[@spaeron]

A glazed neutral tone tile or a pane of glass with a neutral colored paper glued to the back make for a great pallete .pick a size that will fit in a gallon ziplock and save those paints that don't suffer from a short drying time.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes indeed, I was showing the cardboard trick here, but if you watch some upcoming oil videos, you will see my normal palette which is a large neutral colored marble tile.

[@Hushai1979]

Vince, your the best teacher….. so good… I like all the Details on how to… with oils…. Skin tones you make look easy..! 😮🤠🙀👍🇺🇸 from Aiken South Carolina.

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help. :)

[@greywulfe9153]

Vince, another informative vid. I have started using oils and found it fit my style of figure painting. I feel I achieve a better result now

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, I've just found it so relaxing and rewarding to integrate more oils into my painting.

[@tokoloshgolem]

Wow! Just amazingly informative and encouraging. I’m going to give it a shot. Thank you 😊

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help as always. :)

[@lifestylemagick]

I suggest a Glass Palette to you. Red Grass Games or even better New Wave® POSH®. I suggest grey instead of clear or white so see the hues correctly

[@LegendEternal]

I'd love to see you do this with an Ork character. Ghaz skin with oils tutorial? 😁

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, I don't think I will be painting Ghaz any time soon, but I do have plenty of orks around the space, so I am sure I could find something, I will add it to the list.

[@LegendEternal]

Ghaz or no Ghaz, I’d just love to see you do this with greens before I try it. Lol. Thanks for adding it to the list. I look forward to the vid!

[@SebastienlovesCookieswirlc]

That is poetry given shape. Will have to try it some day.

[@VinceVenturella]

You should! It's honestly so much fun.

[@Sean-ch4vn]

Thank you for a great tutorial, please do more videos on using oil paints for miniature painting. I know this will seem like a silly question, when you talked about varnishing after the oil paint was dry, are you using the same varnish that you use for acrylic paint? Thanks again for the great tutorial, keep them comming!

[@VinceVenturella]

More are coming, I am using a lot of oil painting recently. FOr varnish, I am using a 50/50 mix of Satin and AK Ultra Matte varnish (same as the Acrylic painting).

[@craft-o-matic2377]

I enjoyed this so much Vince! I was giggling throughout with the moob painting! This poor guy looks like he needs to see a dermatologist and a liver specialist. He's looks jaundiced to me! But, I did learn, and I always remember more when the teaching is done with a sense of humor! Thank you! Lisa

[@VinceVenturella]

Wonderful, always happy to help. :)

[@13Robzilla]

Another great video Vince! About using varnish as a save point I can't help but remember one of the early text only BBS games that said, "Remember player to save early and save often." Has a whole new meaning now. Thanks for sharing and stay safe!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

[@kellyaudia]

Vince. Seriously. This is the best video you’ve done. I am dabbling in the oils and this is very very good. I like James, but this is easier to follow and you hit so many questions I had. Unbelievable. Get out of my head you devil. Liking and sharing.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful! :) - This one was fun, there will be more coming in the future.

[@doktorkoka]

Thank you so much for going into the details and all this amazing footage of blending work! That was what I was looking for, so motivating. I'm going to try this on some bootleg figures with lousy paintjob and try painting my own clay figures. Subbed. Thanks!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful! You will find tomorrow's video very interesting if you enjoyed this!

[@SvenEnterlein]

I've watched this video probably 5 times now. It's so satisfying to work with oil paints. I've only done it once so far for a wooden barrel but it is a lot of fun!

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, it's very fun for sure.

[@ProrokLebioda]

Revisiting this video as I recently bought set of oil paints. I'm yet to paint a big model, but I did a lot of work in short amount of time on a cape. I have to say that I am impressed. I might've bought too bright Cadmium Red, but will what it should. I love how easily they blend. Thanks again for this tutorial!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mattbaxter688]

"The skin is pretty flat" Looks more dynamic then any skin iv ever painted

[@VinceVenturella]

I appreciate that. I am always on the hunt for upping my skin game.

[@Whorabl3]

Awesome vid, Vince. Please do tons more of this. It's like a whole new untapped world HC can explore! Also that free hand is really well done.

[@VinceVenturella]

More to come for sure.

[@krisd636]

You had me at whipey lol. Soonish I want to dabble into oils. Perfect video, thanks. I'm close to finishing my 1st bust from Robot Rocket Miniatures. I used all acrylic and for a novice I think its turning out good, I'll have to throw it out on the forum when finished. Been getting buzz from the other forums on progress pics. Always a pleasure being a subscriber to your channel!

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help as always and can't wait to see the bust.

[@johnbruce4004]

Genuinely you de-mystified oils. Excellent (and humorous) presentation. Thanks.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@GrizzLeeTroll13]

The first models I ever painted was a unit of ultramarines but all I had was testors paints. They took so long to paint because of the same reason oils take forever, drying. I never knew about ceiling layers down with varnish. And I definitely didn't have a Zen relaxed experience. I'm really tempted to go drop 5 Franklins at my local art supply store on some oils now that I have seem what is possible. After watching what you did with skin tones, with this wonderful troll. I wonder do you ever use oils on smaller 28 mm models? Or smaller?

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely, I love oil paints on smaller miniatures, I have some videos on it, this one is a good example - kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5nEZGV_lM59hq8

[@subaru4262]

Fantastic video.😀😀👍👍👏🏻👏🏻

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you 🤗

[@feloniousmonk5261]

This has been such a useful video, huge thanks! Hoping to see more videos on oils from you as you have a great way of explaining things so they're easy to understand. Cheers!

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome! There are a few more on the channel right now and more coming in the future for sure.

[@michaeln5660]

Great video, but it's odd; I've been painting canvases for decades and I use synthetic brushes for acrylics and sable for oils! On minis I only use sable, except for dry brushing.

[@MrSJPowell]

Yeah, Windsor and Newton was made with oil painting in mind. That said, I expect that this advice is because you would have to have a dedicated sable brush for oils, as cleaning the white spirits out of it so it could work in water would be troublesome.

[@surfacetension4471]

I have to agree here, I've been using sable brushes with my oils for years now, they still look like new. It will depend on exactly how you work with the oil paints I guess, but there is no fundamental incompatibility.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, it's funny, in this one I talk about the synthetics and the use for Oils, I have another video coming soon and I talk about the idea of dedicated sables for oil paints, I have a set that are just for oils. BUt I wanted to start here.

[@michaeln5660]

@@VinceVenturella Makes sense. As usual! Keep up the great work

[@Rhaenday]

Starts using oil paints and immediately starts channeling Bob Ross; "just putting them where they seem they'll be fun" - I love it ^^ Also, reverse drybrusing does seem like a fun way to paint

[@VinceVenturella]

It's so much fun and so relaxing. :)

[@rarneyjr14]

Vince just found this video and I am excited to start using oils. Do you have a video that shows how you got the mini to the stage before you start using the oils? From doing the zenithal and base coats.

[@VinceVenturella]

It was just a zenithal with one coat of elf flesh lightly glazed through an airbrush, so not much prep really. The key with an acrylic undercoat is just a mid-tone version of whatever the oils will be on top, not necessary, but can make your life easier in the long run.

[@ptvptv3827]

Fantastic vid Vince, I've been fascinated by oil paintings ever since I went to the Guild Hall art gallery a few years ago, and here's me no idea I could use it with my mini's! If your ever in London you should visit it, it's a bit of a hidden gem and free!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you enjoyed it and I will have to check that out (this year aside), I am generally in London at least 3 times a year. Guild Hall art gallery, what part of town is it in?

[@ptvptv3827]

@@VinceVenturella It's at the centre of 'The City of London' which is a sort of self governing city state in a square mile right in the centre of London. Make sure you go downstairs as when they were building the foundations of the new gallery (the old one was destroyed by German bombing) they found a Roman Amphitheatre!

[@robv.johnson6360]

Wow amazing. When you started slathering on that white paint to his nipples I got nervous for a moment you weren't going to be able to bring it back but then you did! I'd particularly love to see how you did that tree branch he's holding. I like how I do wood but I don't get it nearly as good as you, yours has such a great variety of color to it. I think I see inktense wood in the more yellowy bits but even if that's true getting it so rich is a lot harder said than done. Would also love to see how you did the skull on the end of his club. I've been doing similar stuff to a lot of people to get bone color but the skull on the end of his club looks so much more like old skulls that have been sitting out in the forest and are picked clean. Fantastic work as always~!

[@VinceVenturella]

I'll see if I can tackle another wood video, but it really is much the same techniques from an earlier video. :)

[@robv.johnson6360]

@@VinceVenturella there was such variety in that piece that you just did but I'll give that video another watch and maybe post a comment when I do! Thanks again

[@DrDanco86]

recently started using oils, and they are so much fun to use, especially on large areas like cloaks and skin.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, it's just so relaxing and fun. :)

[@jakoballan2768]

It may be because I haven't watched that many video's yet, but hearing Vince say "homeboy" at 15:55 made me laugh out loud.

[@VinceVenturella]

No, that's totally fair, me saying homeboy is one of the funnier things around. ;)

[@dusty_gramps443]

This so inspired me to start trying oil paints. He’s like the more aggressive defiant Bob Ross of the miniature world.

[@VinceVenturella]

This is one of the nicer things anyone has ever said about me. ;)

[@raymondusher7672]

im just about to venture into oils after near 30 years with acrylics, looks so wrong just splodging colours on and blending on the mini, you do great helpful videos tho so thank you

[@VinceVenturella]

Best of luck! :)

[@Mikey__R]

YES! SO MUCH YES! *grabs cup of tea and gets comfortable*

[@VinceVenturella]

Hope you enjoyed. :)

[@wingwalker007]

I , for one, would love to see this on 28mm miniatures. I was literally thinking about getting better skin tones today and this showed up in my feed.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, you won't have to wait too long. ;)

[@redrooster7371]

Awesome! Thanks a lot for this one. Looks really easy and I'm sure I will give it a try in the future.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

[@cutley2b]

Great tutorial as I am going to try oils instead of acrylics due to the reasons you show. Question…many oil tutorials say to wait and let that “layer” dry before adding the next paint. You show blending immediately…am confused.

[@VinceVenturella]

You put down all your paint you wnat to blend, do so, and then let it cure. You have to let that whole thing dry before you will get a second clean layer that doesn't mix into the previous.

[@caliere]

Super inspiring! I have the same model with a very basic skin tone. I'll be trying this for sure. Thanks for the detailed video!

[@Isaac-hm6ih]

@Scott Holder The bulk of the model is a Games Workshop giant, I assumed the other elements were converted.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awlays happy to help. :)

[@VinceVenturella]

This is correct, it's the GW Giant with conversions.

[@skynetpuma]

Thanks for another amazing video Vince! Can you tell me which brands do you recommend for brushes when working with oils? which ones are yours? Also, what about the mineral spirits? is the mona lisa better? Sometimes they tend to have a strong smell, i dont know about different brands, here in my country is kind of limited the selection, but any guide can help me a lot. Thanks again! There is a brand called Abteilung 502, that are special oil paints made for miniatures and kits, that even dry faster i believe, do you now about them? Would be great if you would do a review :) Thanks again

[@VinceVenturella]

Any kind of synthetic brushes will work, I also have a few sable brushes I use JUST for this purpose. As to White Spirits, the Mona Lisa or the Gamblin are what I would recommend. The Abteilung 502 are good for sure, they are meant specifically for miniatures and will serve you well.

[@kelseyvanantwerp4724]

Hello Vince, thank you for yet another informative and inspiring video! I just tried oil paints for the first time and am loving the results! A few questions I couldn't find covered anywhere online. 1. Since it can take over a day. How can I know when oil paint is dry/cured? Is it just a matter of time or are there any visual/tactile hints that it has finished curing? 2. How long do you wait before spray varnishing oil paint? 3. Do you varnish oil paint before adding additional layers of acrylic paint?

[@VinceVenturella]

1) It's just a sense of time based on the thickness, but 48 hours with this kind of thinned oil paint is always safe. 2) Until it's dry, so basically 24-48 hours. 3) Yes, in general I will always varnish before I add additional acrylic layers. You don't have to if it's completely cured, but I like to just to even out the finish.

[@Graphixman]

Been wanting to add oils to my arsenal for some time now. Thanks for explaining it so a NEWB can follow.

[@VinceVenturella]

No problem 👍

[@carnajom8831]

Hi Vince! I know this is an older video but I’m wanting to explore oil paints. When it comes to minis how strictly don you follow the various oil paint rules like “fat over lean”, “thick over thin” etc? And for example knowing it’s fully cured before varnishing?

[@VinceVenturella]

I would say you can use many of those rules, I am going to have more videos coming soon, but it's not as important, you can bend them some - except the cured before varnishing. That you must absolutely do.

[@carnajom8831]

@@VinceVenturella thanks so much for the reply! Yeah I’m quite worried about these oil “painting” rules, but I guess the best thing is to try. I’d certainly love to see more videos on oils! Especially the actual painting with them parts (as opposed to weathering and washes).

[@MrRafarius]

Thanks for this amazing tutorial Vince. I'm gonna attempt to do an ogre skin on a bust. Maybe acrylics for the rest of the details.

[@VinceVenturella]

Go for it! :)

[@Matthew_Dubroq]

Vince, any plans for maybe doing a Frazetta style skin/composition?

[@VinceVenturella]

I think that sounds like an awesome article.

[@LegendEternal]

Wow. The first segment, about mixing your own flesh tones, was amazing.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, glad it was helpful. :)

[@EIGHTYYARDS]

It was. Seeing dark flesh tones would’ve been useful also. Sometimes people forget. And there is not a lot of info on dark skin tones

[@BarringtonDailey]

Have you tried using Kimera Kolors but with drying retarder? I had some success mixing paint "on the model" or oil painting as it were! Getting the right consistency of paint was tricky though.

[@VinceVenturella]

I have, it's a little better than normal acrylics for sure, but I couldn't get it to match the easy smothness of oils.

[@Abominus69]

Hi Vince, I’m acceptable with acrylics but am about to paint unimportant models entirely with oils for the first time soon for learning and fun. I notice some people put some relevant acrylic colour basecoats first, whereas others put oil straight over a standard zenithal. Any indications as to which colours you would put a coloured acrylic base under first? Cheers!

[@VinceVenturella]

I like laying down a quick coat then varnishing it, I use the airbrush or contrast paints just to get a basic hue. It just needs to be the basic color.

[@gmoney1664]

Love it! This was always the next video I was going to end up watching after the most recent oil tutorial

[@gmoney1664]

Also, I take it any varnish is OK to use over the top? Am currently using the Vallejo ones via an airbrush

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful! and use, any varnish will be fine over the top (though I prefer Matte varnish for the most part).

[@madthinker7777]

Great video!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thanks!

[@hobbithubby5076]

Dude, that giant’s skin looked fantastic just after your zinethal!

[@VinceVenturella]

Zenithal does a lot of work, hope you liked the end product as well. :)

[@callum5257]

Thanks Vince - your efforts have moved the needle of mini painting knowledge forward instrumentally. A big Q - why ever paint in acrylics instead of oils?

[@VinceVenturella]

Sure, the answer is because it's the right tool for the job. The acrylics are good for small detail and fine control. For example, when I am painting eyes or a tattoo, this is where acrylic paint works well.

[@callum5257]

@@VinceVenturella great, thank you mate

[@the_sigil4340]

Great video. Please people, listen to Vince and do not forget to smooth your moob shadow. Thanks in advance.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's the most important part. ;)

[@ronkarnack3906]

Vince: Could use you use an acrylic wash like say Agrax Earthshade as part of the acrylic underpainting then seal, then apply oils? Or with this method do you not recommend using acrylic washes?

[@VinceVenturella]

You certainly could., You can do whatever you want with the acrylics first, once they are varnished, (and even without honestly), they don't interact with white spirits.

[@Virakotxa]

That base skin, painted with an airbrush, before applying any ink at all, it's already better than any "final product" I have ever achieved... Encouraging to think all there is to learn ahead! ... If you think about it with the right mindset...

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, there are always more steps on the hobby journey, that's why it's wonderful. :)

[@meriadocbrandybock]

Awesome work. What Varnish do you use? I do always paint jobs I am satisfied with but the varnishing ruined so many models ... Please give me a hint. Thank you very much.

[@VinceVenturella]

I use a mix of 3-1 Ultra Matte Varnish from AK with Satin Varnish from Vallejo.

[@jozefmiske8580]

Im little bit scared about stripping paint down. acrylic paints are fine without problem, IPA strip them down easily but about oils I dont know

[@richardsanders3567]

Excellent tutorial answers a lot of questions for a novice

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jimirowe7006]

Great viddy! Sorry if someone has asked this. Do you prefer Satin or Matt surfaces when varnishing between steps?

[@VinceVenturella]

1 drop of satin to 3 drops of ultra matte.

[@madluper]

Moar oil paints tutorials please! I've just started to using them. Looks like they start to be popular around again in wargaming world.

[@VinceVenturella]

More tutorials are coming. :)

[@madluper]

@@VinceVenturella Maybe something about smaller minis batch pairing with oils? :P

[@ProrokLebioda]

@@madluper Yeah, they dry so slow it's painful to just paint 1 mini at a time :D

[@MrRrleonc689]

I loved this video, i am interested in trying this out but i still have some questions. Do you always start with a base coat of acrylics first and sealed them before starting with the oils? Or is it possible to just jump in and use oils right away on top of primer? If it's recommended to have acrylics first, what's the reason behind it? Mostly to have a base coat or is it to make the oils faster to work with because they might have some transparency to them that let's the base coat underneath show through? What if i used contrast paints or speed paints as the base coat instead of a full traditional base coat? Would that help and speed the process so i can start with the oils part of the paint job?

[@VinceVenturella]

I have more videos on oils on the channel, so check those out, but no, you don’t have to start with acrylics, it just makes life easier for toning. You can certainly use contrast paints or anything similar. No issue at all there.

[@nasscooper2006]

Loved it! One of my fav vids of yours.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, this was fun to do for sure.

[@womblissimo6666]

I mean - I always knew that large scale models (fleshy bits) generally are painted using oils - but *** mind blown *** Holy crap! ... I'm almost tempted - no I'm not actually going to do it - to throw all my hundreds and hundreds of acrylics in the trash and start over new ... lol

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, it's so much fun. :)

[@michaelbeighley775]

You can use a 4 X 6 index card placed inside of a disposable plastic sandwich as a small pallet. When the paint is done, you remove and re-use the index card in the next sandwich bag.

[@VinceVenturella]

Neat, that's a clever call for sure.

[@peterbiggin7193]

This was a revelation for me. Atm I'm just printing and building a big winged creature and I've been giving a lot of thought as to how I was going to paint him and thanks to this video I now know. One question Vince, what type of varnish goes on first? Acrylic or enamel? I don't remember hearing you say

[@VinceVenturella]

ALways happy to help. Just standard old acrylic varnish. :)

[@SithEpoch]

Hey Vince! I wanted to say thanks for all of the information that you pass along. Personally you have really been a wealth of knowledge to the point that I am finally working on the models I have been collecting and building over the years and have deiced to jump into the deep end and incorporate oils into this initial endeavor because - like you say and I have finally accepted and internalized - you cant ruin a model. I have been struggling with oils and because I think my touch is too heavy, how much pressure are you exerting on the oils, 2 hairs and some air or something else? Thank you so much again!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you! Always happy to help. :)

[@jaretmoskal5558]

Been looking forward to this one. I struggle with skin tones and this should help a lot

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, happy to help. :)

[@Steger13]

Hi, just what i was looking for. Exiting and look way easier then when i use acrylic. Im about to try to paint figurine with oil paint. I like to know can i still use acrylic for base paint then use oil on top of it? Then if i seal everthing can i add some touch of acrylic on top of all that?

[@VinceVenturella]

You got it exactly, just let the oil paint cure completely (about 48 hours) varnish and then oil paint right over the top.

[@Zogatn]

Nice effect, but I'm afraid of white spirit nonetheless, in fact it's white spirit. I did a little research on the painters' websites and they recommend Eco Solvent by Renesans. I have to check in soon, apparently no harm to health and no smell. Apparently, the only problem is the ability to dissolve the varnish on the brush, so you don't know how you will be at the model.

[@VinceVenturella]

I use either Mona Lisa or Gamsol, and in this case, it's such a small amount, I don't think its posing much risk, I mean, we are talking a few drops in the bottom of a ramican, not near the amount you use for tradtitional oil painting, but I am sure there are options out there.

[@Zogatn]

@@VinceVenturella It's not about the brand. I have read that the so-called ECO solvents do not sensitize, are odorless and do not affect health like normal solvents for oil paints. I live in a small apartment with my wife and little kid and I don't want to use the wrong hemi close to my child. I agree 100%, it's good that we have some options :D besides, I like the idea and the painting very much, it's nice to watch. A very nice option with oil paints, if someone does not have an airbrush and wants to have beautiful toned effects.

[@alfyb4512]

You should really try water-miscible oils. Holbein duo aqua, when used with water only, will dry to a nice matte finish. They remain workable for about 24 hours, so you still get the advantages of slow-drying, and the painting process is just the same. Note I’m not saying you yourself should change anything, your clearly confortable painting with classic oils, but I feel presenting them would really help hobbyists getting into oils. It’s nice to know you can just use water and your same old brushes, without having to deal with toxic thinner.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, it's certainly something I want to try, I'll get around to it eventually.

[@MutsuKazuma]

I was kinda disappointed the first time I painted a cloak with oil, cause the result seemed very meh, a couple of days later when the extreme shinyness dulled down a bit, it looked great, still needs a satin or matte varnish but I'll definitely going to use that again for space marine captain cloaks and for sm banners, maybe even normal shading on powerarmor

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help. :)

[@Critical677]

Thank you as always. I woulld like to see how you paint wood like you can see on the club he is holding! :)

[@Mikey__R]

Hey Philip, if you look through the rest of the Hobby Cheating series, you'll find a whole bunch of deep dive videos just like this one. I seem to remember Vince covering wood several times, the "S75 Inktense Wood" joke will live forever in my memory. But in any case, I can recommend working your way through all of the videos, each one is a gem.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, if you look in the 60's for the Rich Sylvaneth Wood, you'll see my techique, it's very simple and fun. :)

[@Critical677]

Thank you!

[@alexandruraullobontiu4052]

I enjoyed the results in the video so I tried to replicate the process using oilbrushers. It's the first time I use such things and I don't know if they ever fully dry and if they do, how much time does it take? Currently 14h in and it seems that color can still be wiped from the miniature surface. I assume I can't varnish at this stage...

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, it will take about 48 hours to fully cure. With oil paints, you have to just let them sit for a few days. :)

[@emilymegan40]

Wow that was awesome - moobs and all haha! Do you ever use oils for free hand work?

[@VinceVenturella]

It doesn't really work great for detail of freehand (like thin lines and the like, because the rough nature of how it applies), that being said, if you are doing a freehand image, it can be great for items like smoothing out actual full images liek we did on the knights.

[@emilymegan40]

Vince Venturella awesome thanks Vince!

[@ProrokLebioda]

Super cool! I will need to use oils for upcoming Sons of Behemat.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, I know that's how I am getting my giants painted. :)

[@markgnepper5636]

You make it look so easy . Now I get to collect more paint hehehe

[@VinceVenturella]

Never a bad time to get more paint.

[@markgnepper5636]

To true I get every new set that drops. It's fun to test them out and see what they can or can't do

[@Don-ut9uo]

Do you varnish with matt or gloss varnish, over the dry oils, when you want to then use acrylic paints over the varnish?

[@VinceVenturella]

I actually varnish with a 50/50 mix of Satin Varnish from Vallejo and AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish. I find it gives the right mix of durability and is still completely matte.

[@LaLaObeRoT]

I started painting using Bob Ross' videos. I find oil paints a lot less intimidating than acrylics. So much less stress. So much more forgiving.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's true, it's so relaxing.

[@Zuzar-]

You need a softer paint scraper! Much easier when working with small amounts like that, looks like a thin paperknife almost..

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, I actually grabbed the wrong one for the video. :)

[@surrealroad]

Hi Vince, I know this is an older video, but I recently got into oil paints in a big way, and came back to this video for some tips (of which there were many!) I do have one question though, is there a way to do an oil wash over parts painted in oil? When I've tried to do it, either the oil paint underneath gets erased, or everything just sort of splodges together.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful! It's always dangerous, you are putting the solvent directly on the paint. You can varnish it heavily (give it 2-3 good varnishes once the oil paint has completely cured) and that can make it work as long as you have alight touch, but it's always somewhat risky.

[@surrealroad]

Makes sense, thanks!

[@johnc.4871]

Great video Vince. I have never used oils and a bit hesitant to try due to needing to learn how to mix, clean, and apply it all it's forms like acrylic. I am still learning a lot about acrylic and mixing colors. Do you reference color mix charts for a particular color?

[@VinceVenturella]

They are a totally different thing and do require a new learning curve, so I certainly get it. As to color mixing, I don't really use a mixing chart, but that just comes from experience, it's certainly a good tool when you start out.

[@jefflamott850]

I use an old food dehydrator to dry my oils overnight.

[@VinceVenturella]

That's a really great idea.

[@thumbprintsinputty6168]

An old oil painter trick is to set your figure under an incandescent bulb, 100 watt. The heat will dry the paint and it will be matt. Don't do this with plastic figures, you and your figure will be sad.

[@kofmanmi]

With how much oil paints improve the speed of certain techniques, did they wholly replace acrylics for you when it comes to washes, blending large areas, etc?

[@VinceVenturella]

I mean, it's quite fast, probably 10-20% of the time. That being said, it's still often mixed with acrylics, it works best on larger areas.

[@kofmanmi]

@@VinceVenturella makes sense, ty!

[@seanfleming1599]

Another great video. One question; In a previous video you mentioned that the brush you blend the colours with needed to be dry with no white spirit but here you're using a tiny bit that is left after the "wipey wipey". Why the different method?

[@VinceVenturella]

Just the necessity of the current dryness of the paint. If you have very fresh paint or youre working when there are still white spirits in the paint, you want it bone dry. If most of that has evaporated, you might need just a tiny, tiny amount ot get things moving.

[@jakessofa8187]

been recently using oils for washes and pin lining (the time saver), but I'll have to push the boat out and go for a bit more actual painting. Question good sir, do you find the acrylics beforehand actually matter? it appears the opacity of the oils takes over

[@VinceVenturella]

They make things easier, but they aren't essential.

[@jakessofa8187]

@@VinceVenturella yeah nice one, i guess it also gives you a blueprint of shadows/lights etc

[@BOBHO631]

Great Video..very helpful! Thanks

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful! :)

[@adcpowell]

Thanks for this tutorial Vince. I do have a question though. Not about oil paints. I just need a little advice on very small faces. I’m currently painting GCT studios miniatures for Bushido. I love the figs but the faces are so small and highly detailed and delicate. The first time, I found, because it’s such a small area, even with thinning the paints, it tended to “cake”. I’ve used flow aid recently which helps but wondered to your knowledge if the is a paint product the is very translucent or a technique that would help?. Many thanks Andy

[@VinceVenturella]

My best advice would be something like trying some inks/contrast type paints mixed into your regular paints or alone. They tend to be hyper-thin and transparent and should also be capable of thinning your existing paints as well.

[@adcpowell]

Vince Venturella Thank you Vince, I’ll give it a go.👍

[@Isaac-hm6ih]

Interesting. However, it looks fairly similar to wet blending with acrylics, at last ones with an enormous amount of retarder. Are there advantages to oils besides drying time?

[@VinceVenturella]

To get the drying times to achieve this level of smoothness, you would need a level of retarder that would generally thin the paints too much. The thickness of it is also a value, as you can really smooth it out. Oils will just more naturally melt into each other to the point where you don't have to do the additional smoothing that is often necessary with acrylics to get a perfectly smooth blend.

[@Isaac-hm6ih]

@@VinceVenturella Ok, thank you. I think I'll need to try them to truly understand the difference.

[@firstprinciplebias2668]

yo at 20:39 he brought out some cool whip on the nip lmao

[@VinceVenturella]

I did catch the nip there for sure. ;)

[@ILikeYous]

I just bought some oils and Windsor and Newton Sansodor (brush cleaner) and a few mig oilbrushers. Perfect timing. Thank you. To apply(free hand) a tattoo would you wait till it is dry or blend in some dark green or blue while the flesh tone is wet? Edit: moooooooob

[@VinceVenturella]

I would wait until everything is dry, varnish and then go back. In the case of tattoos, I generally do them with acrylics (but you could do with oils as the second layer).

[@ILikeYous]

@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince. I will try that out. I am loving oils. I am going to check your backlog for videos on enamels next. I accidentally bought AK Interactive Enamels and not sure how to use them.

[@MF-kv8cn]

do all figures need to have an acrylic, enamel or lacquer base paint coat down before applying oils like Abteilung 502s? is it possible to paint a figure just using oils starting from a white undercoat or would it just take forever and be transparent?

[@VinceVenturella]

There needs to be some kind of primer, but you don't need to have the acrylic base if you don't like. Here is another sample with a miniature completely in oils. - kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5nEZGV_lM59hq8

[@MF-kv8cn]

@@VinceVenturella thank you for the reply. I wasn't too sure but you helped me understand that it's possible. I'm still working on learning the acrylics, I'm too far a newbie to be using oils on figures. On another note i found this video on YT of some "where's Waldo" looking dude demoing different paint ranges. I think he did a piss poor job of using the paints how they're meant to be used, two, three thin coats. he just globbed it on. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oH6Znnukpax2d9U

[@turtleandbear1179]

hi Vince! Not sure where I should ask this, hope here is ok. I started painting for DnD, but quickly found that I was less interested in tactical dnd combat. so now i mostly paint for painting's sake, without any use for the mini's in mind. I now have only a handful minis done. under 10. This also leads to me not being "limited" by (or "focussed" on) 28/32mm scale. so I wanted to ask: Do you think one should be good at 28mm before moving to 54mm, 75mm, 90mm, 110mm etc? Or would you just go for it. Because I suspect that most miniature painters just paint 28mm because that's the scale most games work with. and in general: how do you think painting different scales compare to one another?

[@VinceVenturella]

So with the larger scales, they are really comfortable, because the details are larger, the painting is generally easier, but you also need to add more texture and detail. That being said, 54mm is such a comfortable scale to paint, I think there is no reason to wait, if you want to give it a try, give it a try. :)

[@turtleandbear1179]

@@VinceVenturella Thank you, I will!

[@noamisaac]

Hey Vince, ever tried water-soluble oil paints? Any thought on them (in particular - use water for thinning, or only for cleaning?)

[@VinceVenturella]

Haven't tried them, I've heard others talk about them and they had positive feedback, so I am sure they are fine, but I can't speak from personal experience.

[@noamisaac]

@@VinceVenturella Thanks! Since you're already here, I've recently bought some Warcolours as you recommended, and I'm finding they leave textures and streaks, and when I try and smooth them out I just wipe them off the mini instead. Do you have any tips? Also, I gotta say you are honestly a huge inspiration for me as a painter, your videos are honestly SO helpful.

[@VinceVenturella]

@@noamisaac Warcolours are tricky to work with. So either you start with a larger glob and you use the side of the brush to smooth and thin it on the model, or you can use a little flow improver or water to break it up in the wet palette to act more like a traditional thin layer paint. Hope that helps. :)

[@noamisaac]

@@VinceVenturella OK, thank you much!

[@Abomb1987]

Awesome stuff I am really enjoying your series on oil painting! Is an color base coat always necessary for working with oils? I understand that some of the oil colors are transparent, is this why we can’t just apply them over a primed model?

[@VinceVenturella]

It's not necessary, it can just make things a little easier or slightly help set an undertone. I do it for large areas, but it's not essential, you just have to be careful with your thinning.

[@xyqueum]

Vince, I painted my oils directly over black primer. I am experiencing a problem with applying the oils. When I am blending the paint comes off completely. I am using the oilbrusher oils. What am I doing wrong?

[@VinceVenturella]

In general, you're going to be better to get some kind of a zenithal or pre-light on there, then lay down an acrylic base coat quickly (anything will work). Oils will work much better over that.