Homemade ECN-2 Movie Film Processing Complete Step by Step Tutorial | Kodak Vision Films | Filmboy24

[@tiomannysworld6835]

Whoa Mike, totally epic bro. Beautiful results! Can't wait to start my color processing your an inspiration man great work!!

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks so much, Manny!! Really appreciate it, my friend!

[@carlosernestogarzonavila9986]

I totally agree with Manny. Thank you so much filmboy24. Like Manny, I'll try to process negative color.

[@Filmboy24]

@@carlosernestogarzonavila9986 Thanks so much!! Best of luck with your film!

[@barrysteinlage6888]

Wow Mike, that's some of the best results I've seen. Close to being on par with the labs. I'm glad you have the patience and know how to do this. I don't, that's why I go the lab route. You get to shoot and process more I know. But I have the worry did I expose it properly and use the lab as my benchmark.

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you, Barry! This is definitely a constant learning experience for me. Keep doing what you're doing, it works for you. As always, I really appreciate your support!!

[@ClaytonCogswell]

Mike, thank you so much for this and all your tutelage. Your channel is a freakin treasure on KZbin.

[@Filmboy24]

Wow, thank you so much, Clayton!!

[@TheCinematographyLab]

Very cool & informative video Mike. Thanks for sharing.

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you, Ruben!!

[@knoptop]

Good stuff! You probably have mentioned it before, but what are you using to scan your processed film?

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks! I currently use the MovieStuff RetroScan Universal Mark 1 scanner but I have their Mark 2 unit on order.

[@TheStudiolight]

Amazing work! You got me inspired. I did that in film school. Brings a tear to my eye :) I have to get back to it. Thank you !

[@Filmboy24]

You just made my week! Thank you so much!

[@madskdz]

my lord! Amazing video mike. great details and really makes it look easy. great results to boot. your the man!

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks so much, Lyle!!

[@mfb4277]

What a great video! This is what I'm looking for! Well, the Cinestill ECN-2 developer ist not that expensive after all, but you can't always get in here in Germany. The results you got from your developer (that seems to be some way easier to mix that the original Kodak recipe) look great. What I do with Vision 3 negatives ist not generally scanning them but copying them to 3383 with a DIY contact copier. So I need some negatives, that work well together with 3383 and ECP (that I mix myself). Have you compared your results with results from the Cinestill kit? Thanks for your help and again - great work.

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks, MFB!! I haven't ever really compared the differences between my home brew and Cinestill's ECN-2 kit but judging from memory, I don't recall much difference at all. I guess the ability to mix a fresh batch any time I want and the cost were the main factors in me doing it myself. The beauty of Vision 3 stocks is that they have so much latitude, there is really a lot of room for error (and I make errors, lol). Most anything can be fixed in post (for me) as I don't print my negatives. I think the real difference between processes would be more noticeable in home processed (in whatever chemicals) vs professional lab processing.

[@dvsvamsi2421]

Dope 👍. Loved the results too... definitely not expected the results like that . Very interesting. Good video sir. From India

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks so much, DVS!!

[@dvsvamsi2421]

@@Filmboy24 can we expect a diy film scanner video ... Sir plz

[@Filmboy24]

@@dvsvamsi2421 Unfortunately, I probably wont do a DIY scanner, as I just bout a RetroScan Mark II unit.

[@robmay3570]

Fantastic video of your home brew ECN2 development the results very good. I have used dishwasher rinse aid instead of photo flow. The dishwasher rinse aid dose not foam up as dish soap dose. The cost of rinse aid is very cheap £1 for 500ml bottle. very good colour on your film. Keep up the great work

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you, Robert!!

[@OskarFilms]

This video belongs on the FilmBoy24 Greatest Hits/Deluxe Box Set album! Great DIY stuff, Mike. Very informative. Maybe I'll give my Lomo Tank a second chance.

[@Filmboy24]

🤣🤣Thanks, Frank!!

[@MarkLeonTanner]

Thank you... I bought a 100 foot roll of vision 3 35mm for stills a few years ago, c41 development didn't do it for me,,,

[@Filmboy24]

My pleasure! Thanks, Mark!!

[@juliedelevante6081]

Geeeez! Those colors are gorgeous! Really surprised how it looks as good as the lab. Fantastic job! Thank you for the informative video. Great details.

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you, Julie!!

[@cecildeville6950]

Thanks, I actually watched a couple of videos on ECN-2 processing last week and thought that that it would be nice if you made a video on this. You must have read my mind, great video.

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks so much, Cecil!

[@lroussarie]

Yo Mike, another fine video! Questions, what is creating the white scratches on the film? Is it the camera or the developing process? And I have seen those scratches on film that was said to be developed at a lab. You did answer a question I had about your home developing and newer film stocks and I like the results a lot. Having said that I like the white scratches and could live with them. Last question, do you edit your films in a computer or do you edit in the camera while you shoot the video? A little of both, maybe? Keep a going!

[@Filmboy24]

Greetings, Lawrence! Thank you kindly!! The scratches are sort of a mystery to me. In all honesty, I'm probably rougher on my film than I should be. I got lucky on this particular film and only got the vertical scratches for a few seconds (not so lucky on others). With my particular process, it's either happening when I pull the film from the cart (might be rubbing the lip), scanning the film (could be a tiny burr, though I check regularly), pulling the film through my fingers after processing (though I have Dawn dish soap hands 🤣) or when I spool the film after its dry (I pull it between a Kimwipe). I will solve the mystery some day and I'm leaning heavily toward pulling the film from the cart or my scanner. As far as editing, with films like this one, it's pretty much straight from the camera. If fact, I didn't cut anything at all from this one at all, except the head and tail. I do use Vegas Pro 18 for everything except stabilizing (Davinci Resolve).

[@vladbox1]

Great stuff, however, I will suggest using a good filtered mask while doing the process in the darkroom, those fumes have been faulted for causing some nervous system illnesses (including my dad's) just friendly advice..

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you, Vlad! That's actually quite good advice and I'm sorry to hear about your dad. We should all learn from him ☺

[@CoroaEntertainment]

I was expecting at some time during the mixing process, that you would of let out an evil laugh like a mad scientist. 🧙‍♂ 😊

[@Filmboy24]

🤣🤣🤣 I really missed the boat on that one!

[@jaytp19]

Have you ever thought about working with the ECP-2 process using print stock? There is no remjet backing and the clear base might make it possible to do color reversal?

[@Filmboy24]

I've heard of ECP-2 but haven't really thought about delving too much into it. I'm sort of a simpleton when it comes to processing. I love the latitude you get from modern color negative and just how easy it is to process. Definitely not out of the question, just not in the cards at this moment.

[@jaytp19]

@@Filmboy24 I will keep you posted if I figure anything out. It uses CD-2 and the same bleach as ECN-2. What caught my eye is that you can buy right from Kodak 2000' of 16mm for just $200. Just one of the million other projects I have going.

[@Filmboy24]

@@jaytp19 Thank you! Please do keep me posted if you sort it out, I'd love to hear about it. You're right about that crazy price for the film, you could shoot forever!!

[@yeheric7739]

Thank you so so much, especially for a new 8mm-home-developer like me. A question: what is the device you're using to keep the constant water temperature in your sink? Any link for that product? Thank you so much again!

[@Filmboy24]

My pleasure, thank you for watching!! I've used a couple Sous Vide units for keeping the water temp regulated, and this is the one I like best (my current one): amzn.to/3sjrGH0

[@yuz3586]

Thanks for your video!! What’s CD3?? I looked it up on Amazon, but it wasn't there I'm not an American, so I might not know

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you Yuz! CD-3 is the Color Developing agent used in the ECN-2 process. I get mine at Artcraft Chemicals but it appears that they only ship to the US. Maybe they could help you if you emailed them asking where you could find some in your country. Here's a link to their CD-3: artcraftchemicals.com/products/cd-3-part-1090?_pos=1&_sid=3af2834a9&_ss=r

[@andrewcroft2570]

Great video, I'm a complete novice when it comes to film but I've started shooting a bit of Vision 3 250d and 500T 35mm film. Does that homemade ECN2 chemicals work the same with 35mm still photography film, please?

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you, Andrew!! Yes, it will work just the same with Vision 3 still film.

[@arieldjarn]

Fantastic results! I have the ECN2 kit from QWD waiting on my shelf - but have yet to take the step! Very informative video - well done Sir!

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you, Arieldjarn!! Get that kit mixed up and start processing 😀

[@LyndonSoulGroove]

wonderful results Mike, is the idea that by using negative film you can store away the original film to re-scan in future or make a positive film from that Neg film , as you cannot project Neg film ?

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you, Lyndon!! This Vision stock was really meant to be transferred and color corrected/balanced. Yes, you could print it and make a positive but you'd need to correct and balance during the printing. This was commonly done years ago when making prints for theatrical movies.

[@LyndonSoulGroove]

@@Filmboy24 thanks ok so that was the way the film industry distributed by shooting Neg and making 35mm prints to sent to the Cinemas, I did a short Voluntary stint in mid 90's in a small cinema in uk ( art house type ) i would arrive early and joint the reels together and feed the projector was a heavy job & sometimes i got a static voltage shock as the film was passing through. It was a good experience.

[@michaelb.5345]

Dang Miguel great info and results..👍👍

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks, Pop!!

[@chriscottrill5181]

What wonderful explanations and demonstration. And you are so darn organized. Wish I could be that way. I always learn something watching your "how to" videos. The results look as good as any lab I've seen. Congratulations!

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you, Chris!! Really appreciate it!!

[@MichaelCarter]

That Gaffer's tape trick looks useful

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks, Michael! It's saved me from film unwinding before.

[@fenixlolnope361]

Can you project these for the sake of scanning with a telecine and DSLR?

[@Filmboy24]

You can, just remember, you’re projecting a negative image, so you’ll need to invert it in post.

[@Greenlightmike33]

Hey Mike, so when you’re done developing V3 film and scan it, do you still have to invert the colors? I bought a “cheap” Kodak Reels scanner for already developed 8mm old family film but was wondering how I’d develop newly shot film and then be able to scan it. I’m eventually going to 3d print and build a better scanner (T-Scann 8). Thanks for the help!

[@Filmboy24]

That a great question. If you’ll be developing your film as a negative, the Kodak Reels should be able to invert it during the initial scan. My Wolverine Pro did that. There should be a “Positive” and “Negative” setting in the menu. One thing I did learn is that sometimes the film actually comes out better when scanning as a negative (scanner set to Positive), then inverting it in post software.

[@Greenlightmike33]

@@Filmboy24 hey Mike, unfortunately the Kodak scanner doesn't have a setting for that. I was wondering if you have any issues with blue tint at all? I've seen a few other videos where when the negatives are inverted in post it leaves a blue tint to everything. Is that something you experience with the vision3 stock? Thanks again for your help!

[@RotarySMP]

Wonder how hard it is to get them in europe? Nice results. The colors look pretty accurate. You go to all that trouble, but running water and flowers don't do your technical skills justice. How about you free your inner Peter Jackson, and make a zombie, alien or vampire movie next time. I'd really like to see a test role which doesnt look like pointing a camera at the nearest colorful object. I am sure your kids would be all in for dressing up as zombies, and getting attacked by the killer butterflies.

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks! Not much trouble filming water and flowers, LOL. I know what you mean though, I have been writing a low budget horror slasher feature film for a while now (about 60 pages done). Maybe one day...

[@tedkeaton7098]

Thank you for this incredible guide!!!

[@Filmboy24]

My pleasure, thanks so much for watching & commenting!!

[@ayupchap]

This is amazing!!! Thanks for spending time to make this. I have recently started developing and using a kit like you mention but I now have to try this.

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks so much, Scott!! Really appreciate it!

[@eddielwyn6194]

So grateful for this.

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks, Eddie!!

[@nicklymberis5371]

Great stuff mate! Very impressed with the results! Where do you get your CD3 from and how long does it keep for? Can get everything else to try this but CD3 seems elusive... or 1200 for the 25kg drum 😅

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks, Nick! I get my CD-3 here: www.artcraftchemicals.com/product/cd-3-part-1090/ It keeps (in powder form) very well. I've had mine over a year and it still works great. Keep it stored in a cool, dark place (mine is under the kitchen sink).

[@nicklymberis5371]

@@Filmboy24 awesome thanks for that. So to be clear on your yields, was it 6 rolls per 2litre kit or 1litre kit? Do you see any degradation in quality in say rolls 3, 4 5 vs rolls 1, 2, 3? Such a great resource this - waiting on the E-6 version now 😅

[@Filmboy24]

@@nicklymberis5371 So, it's pretty tough to say for sure on how many rolls you can get out of a single mix. When I process super 8 with it, I'm using 1-ish liters out of my 2 liter batch and pouring it back in. This kind of replenishes it a little. If doing only super 8, I'd be comfortable processing 8 rolls this way, from the 2 liter batch. With 16mm, I can usually stretch it to about 5-6 100' rolls. I did forget to mention that I usually add about 5-7 seconds to my developing time with each film processed after the first roll. This helps to compensate for chemical exhaustion. I really don't see any dropoff in quality at all doing it this way. You might even be able to take it a little further, I just usually don't. Lastly, when processing with a remjet first bath, it's probably a good idea to filter all of your chemicals through a coffee filter, just to catch any impurities.

[@colorgradingcentral]

How did you scan this?

[@Filmboy24]

I scan everything with my MovieStuff RetroScan Universal.

[@colorgradingcentral]

@@Filmboy24 do you know if there is an option to scan in a log type profile where the image is really flat to preserve dynamic range?

[@Filmboy24]

@@colorgradingcentral That's a great question. I now use the RetroScan Mark II 4K scanner (not on this video) and while it does a pretty decent job, it wasn't really designed for log scans. I can get relatively flat but honestly, nothing like the super high end machines.

[@colorgradingcentral]

@@Filmboy24 thanks for the reply

[@beavis8073]

How do I do the thing where is taken down a few stops if I overexpose the film?

[@Filmboy24]

You can "Pull" process by reducing your processing by 30 seconds. I would not recommend going any shorter than that though. Honestly, unless you really overexposed it, I would probably process normal. Most newer ECN-2 process film has a good bit of leeway (latitude) for correction in post, especially when overexposed rather than under..

[@NicolasRueda-k5i]

how long do these chemicals last, or how can you extend the life of them ?

[@Filmboy24]

Once mixed, I use mine pretty regularly and it lasts around 3 months or about 8- 10 rolls of Super 8. Always store it in air tight containers (dark preferred) in a cool, dark spot (mine are under my sink). A word of warning, if your chemicals get exhausted and you try and process with them, your film will come out completely clear. If you feel like they're nearing the end, do a little strip test.

[@MrLittlmike22]

this is FANTASTIC!

[@Filmboy24]

Thank you!!

[@gtrplayer1000]

Amazing Mike and awesome results, but I’m gonna resist getting into doing color developing… B&W is challenging enough for me 🙂

[@Filmboy24]

Thanks, Dave! B&W is definitely much more forgiving than color. Biggest plus…no remjet!!!

[@gtrplayer1000]

@@Filmboy24 Oh yes my nemesis Remjet! 🙂. I just ordered 2 unknown age rolls (K40, E160) for additional practice and remjet headaches. Anyway they are also partially exposed so not expecting much but we’ll see.

[@Filmboy24]

@@gtrplayer1000 Good luck! Let me know how they turn out.

[@tasost2161]

Hello there can i just buy washing soda and baking soda from super market and use them with the other chemicals for developer and blix? Thank you

[@Filmboy24]

I use regular store bought baking soda and I while used to use store bought washing soda, I now make sure it's anhydrous (no added water). The washing soda at the supermarket usually has added water, so I now buy my sodium carbonate on Amazon. Honestly though, if you have no other option, the supermarket stuff worked fine for me.

[@tasost2161]

@@Filmboy24 thank you, do you have also a c41 formula?

[@tasost2161]

@@Filmboy24 Also i want to ask you , i found all the chemicals but some are not Anhydrous, is this ok ?

[@Filmboy24]

@@tasost2161I've used non-Anhydrous Sodium Carbonate and it worked fine. Typically, you'd want to up the amounts a little (not sure how much) if there is water added to the chemicals.

[@Filmboy24]

@@tasost2161I haven't made any C-41 but I've used this formula on C-41 film. It's not perfect, but it does a pretty good job.

[@JNMoodyPhotography]

I’ve been following a while now, and also shoot a ton of film. Oddly enough, I live right off of Sugarmill!

[@Filmboy24]

Wow, really small world! I've met a couple people now that are in the area. Thanks for your support!!

[@JNMoodyPhotography]

@@Filmboy24 I’ve lived here on and off for a lot of my life, even met other photographers but outside some of the friends I made at Daytona State, I’ve hardly met film enthusiasts.

[@ethanshealey]

What is CD-3 and where can I get it?

[@Filmboy24]

CD-3 is “Color Developer 3” and in the US you can get it from Artcraft Chemicals.

[@singularity1676]

Can I process 35mm film using this dilution of chemistry?

[@Filmboy24]

I've done it several times with "C-41" film and while it does work, they are not the same process. I got some shifted colors but was able to fix pretty well in post. If you're doing 35mm "ECN-2" film, then yes, this would work fine.

[@singularity1676]

@Filmboy24 I bulk roll my own ECN-2 35mm film. Being able to make my own processing chemistry as well is great. Thank you very much!

[@singularity1676]

​​@Filmboy24 Any idea alternative names to CD-3? Can't seem to find it online. Also, will Kodak Fleixcolor fixer for c-41 work with the ECN-2 process? If not, which one would you recommend using?

[@Filmboy24]

@@singularity1676 I get my CD-3 from Artcraft. Here is the link to it: artcraftchemicals.com/products/cd-3-part-1090?_pos=1&_sid=3cb8e4309&_ss=r I have always used Kodak powder fixer. It comes in a large pouch and you mix it with 1 gallon of water. Has never failed me.

[@rlaalsdn0215]

Where did you get the super 8 reels from??

[@Filmboy24]

I can’t remember where I got these particular ones but you can usually get used ones on EBay or new ones from Urbanski.

[@MichaelxBarakat]

Where can you buy all the materials to home process and develop?

[@Filmboy24]

If you are in the US, you can get pretty much everything online at Artcraft Chemicals. I buy the Sodium Carbonate from Amazon and the Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) from the local grocery store.

[@MichaelxBarakat]

What about the cartridges and properly getting the film from the chemicals to a reel and how can you see what’s on the reel? Equipment for that, I am trying to decide if I should just ship my 6 cartridges I have out or if it’s cheaper to buy all the materials from A-Z I can do it at home

[@Filmboy24]

@@MichaelxBarakat There are a few variables. First, you're never likely to get professional lab results at home. If you're ok with that, and you like the thought of complete control over your film, then home processing is awesome. There are upfront costs though, the biggest being the Lomo tank. As far as I know, these can really only be purchased from Ukraine (and surrounding) and are usually around $200 USD plus shipping, which can take a while to receive depending on your location. The tank is a one time commitment though and once it's yours, it's yours. You will also need some 50' super 8 reels, which are around $2 each at Urbanski Film. If you're only going to do 6 cartridges, then be done, it's probably cheaper to just send to a lab. If you want to process your 6 rolls and beyond, then you may want to consider getting set up at home. Only you can answer that. Best of luck!!

[@kilianhzh]

If you do this more often or in bigger batches i would suggest getting a magnetic stirrer. 20-50$ investment that simplifies prepping the chemistry a lot

[@Filmboy24]

Until your post, I had no idea these even existed. Now...I must get one! Thank you!

[@troydehoyos]

Thank you!

[@justlikeswimming5988]

Please, wear gloves when working with the potassium cyanide! Consider moving to UL-type ammonium for bleach, much safer. But great instructions overall. I'm thinking about trying out kodak vision film thanks Do yourself a favor, get a stir plate and magnetic stir bar, make your life easier! I'm looking forward to processing my own ECN-2 film!

[@MichaelCarter]

What is CD;3???

[@MichaelCarter]

Besides being $30+ per 100g

[@Filmboy24]

@@MichaelCarter Color Developer 3

[@silasdesaram6036]

No gloves and protective equipment? 😮

[@Filmboy24]

Nope!