Everything You Need to Know About Spray Foam

[@TheHappyJack.1]

I have come to realize that Jeff is a straight shooter. When I need to perform a particular task, even if I think I know how to proceed, I always look to see what he would do. I haven't found a task yet that he doesn't make it easier or safer for me to accomplish. He has also renewed my DIY interests since I'm now retired. Thanks, Jeff, keep up the good work.

[@almostdone09]

I must admit. I absolutely love this channel. I would look at this channel for any information regarding any DIY project I may have.

[@blakecannon6963]

You’re being mis lead in this video guys. He knows nothing about spray foam. Lol. All he told you was the color

[@AmrXcellent]

That! and he is also entertaining to watch!

[@martywillichuk6930]

@@almostdone09 ....and you don't need to go anywhere else!

[@scottocken1209]

😅

[@eduardos8895]

There are differences in the foam... Window and door: softer and won't bulge your door frames Window and door Pro: same stuff but cures faster Gaps and Cracs: regular foam Big gap filler: expands much more. Fill two same sized containers with it and regular stuff, then see which one will cure bigger(it needs to cure to get bigger) Pest block: regular gaps and cracks but with a bittering agent. I know because I work at the plant that makes this. Also, moisture in the air dictates the outcome. Water initiates the chemical reaction that cures it.

[@dadsquatch79]

Doesn't seem to be any difference any more.

[@naturalhealing9970]

How do we get an extension hose for hard to reach areas.

[@eduardos8895]

@@naturalhealing9970 what do you mean by an extension hose? For regular cans? Pro cans have a long gun that's about 3 feet long but it does not bend. Froth packs have longer hoses...

[@naturalhealing9970]

@@eduardos8895 Yes, for regular cans.

[@eduardos8895]

@@naturalhealing9970 we don't have anything like that sorry. You probably can make something yourself though. On the old fashioned straws that we use, the straw part removes pretty easily and you'll be left with the trigger. I bet you can attach like a refrigerator plastic water hose as a custom straw to that. I am not sure how long it would go before the straw gets blown out though.

[@michaelellis5930]

I have definitely noticed that the window/door stuff doesn't push and bow things out, and the regular gap filler one does. Window/door is also much softer and flexible once cured, while the regular stuff is quite hard. The formulas can' be the same, although I do agree their expansion really does look the same.

[@Nelson4207]

That was the whole push behind the window and door one, it wont push on and bow windows and frames, so its nice to know it does that job, im gonna get some and i think ill get the window one for sensitive spots 👍 I'm doing a shed and none of the gaps are large

[@CanCobb]

I was a service tech, and the key I learned for the window and door stuff is not to fill the gap completely and just let the stuff expand. It is low expansion, in that it only ~ doubles in size vs the professional spray foams that multiple by 5-10x. It's better to go back 10 min later and apply a little more than to overapply in the first pass. The stuff is really annoying to scrape away, especially when you're dealing with visible parts of windows that you don't want to damage with an Olfa knife. I also learned the hard way why to always leave a 1/4" gap on all sides of a window when installing it - you have to have at least the size of the spray foam applicator tip!

[@ineedhelpbad]

So this is my take on the differences between the foams. The regular foam partially hardens before it finishes expanding. This causes it to build pressure and cause doors and windows to jam. On the other hand, the windows and doors formula will fully expand before it hardens and this prevents it from building pressure and instead just oozes out. I haven't noticed any difference between the big gap and the regular foam.

[@aprilm9551]

Excellent, exactly the detail we need, and it does show that these are not all the same.

[@slc1161]

Thanks. I discovered a massive amount of cold air coming in around all my windows. I'm sure it's killing my heating and cooling bills. Hoping to get them sealed before a snowstorm tonight. Didn't know how to use them but the video and your reply was very helpful.

[@medonhomeimprovementsllc8039]

yes, I have had the same experience. there"s definitely a difference between the regular foam and the windows foam, I once used the regular foam on windows and it pushed the window framing causing the window to jam.

[@videopipeline6419]

Thanks for demonstrating why the gun-applied foam works better. FYI: Great Stuff Pro (red can) is only about 80% closed cell content, and although I've not found any specs for the non-pro version, it's probably safe to assume it's closer to the HandiFoam equivalent, which has only 67% CLOSED cell content. Some other brands, such as Loctite Titefoam and Draftstop 812, have a finer cell structure, higher closed cell content & better R-value per inch.

[@hurdman7899]

Great video. Story: My ex and I remodeled a home. She used some of this foam to fill gaps. It really expanded and she used her bare hands to smooth the foam instead of waiting until it dries and cut it off. She came into the kitchen to wash her hands which were both covered in foam. I told her to stop. DO NOT GET YOUR HANDS WET!!!! It will set the foam. I asked her if she had any fingernail polish remover. Nope. I then told her to just chill out and I drove to Home Depot to get some acetone to clean her hands. When I got out of my truck when I got home, I could hear the water running. I rushed into the kitchen and she was madly washing her hands. The acetone did NOT remove the hardened foam. It took about 10 days for all of the foam to come off with lots of picking and rubbing. It was heartbreaking that she did not believe me and washed her hands anyway.

[@YoureWrongImRightGetOverIt]

Women for ya

[@dancolegate3905]

Did you at least say " I told you"

[@t1n4444]

@@dancolegate3905 Well, not if he expected to live ... Worse tho' is finding your "personal account" has been put on "block" or "hold" or "suspended" ... if you follow?

[@davidtsang4949]

@@dancolegate3905 Probably did, hence the "ex"... lol

[@x_HarleyQ_x]

It's definitely not just women. My ex boyfriend did the exact same thing after offering to help me with a home office I was building in my yard. I bought us each 2 pairs of gloves to use with the spray the foam, but despite me insisting that he wear gloves and explaining what will happen if he doesn't, he learned a very hard, painful lesson that day. Wearing gloves while molding spray foam with your hands doesn't "mean you're a p**sy," it means you're smart and have to common sense. He ignored my warning about water too and went straight to the hose to wash it off. I've always done all my own home repairs myself, but as a 5' 4" 140 lb female, sometimes it's nice to have a guy around to help me reach higher places or when I need some extra muscle. Unfortunately, that day just reminded me why most of the time it's just better to do things myself. 🙄

[@jimrussell3367]

Hey I'm a pro paint contractor for over 30 years i really like your vids and how your honest straight shooter you are easy to understand ! great work .

[@YoureWrongImRightGetOverIt]

This guy is my hero! As a contractor it sucks working for clients, to be able to shut down ur business and just make videos of you working on your own home for yourself (every contractors dream) just amazing i gotta hand it to you, keep the videos coming, no more crappy days for you! An inspiration to all trademan who dont want to be swinging a hammer into their 60s...

[@1995Benzo]

Bad contractor vibes

[@phillamoore157]

Love this video. The sad fact is that Great Stuff foam is hardly the only company that's pulling their marketing BS with their products. An INSANE amount of OCD-laden research goes into consumers wanting to make sure they purchase the "best" product, and in so many circumstances they get caught up in this marketing crap, because we don't know any better until we're up to our necks in the project. So, the pro's who are in a position to know....their feedback is absolutely priceless. So, a big thank you again, to Uncle Jeff for his time, and wisdom.

[@vhvvictor]

Thanks for the review! Generally I'd use the same foam for almost everything, but I do use some specific kinds of foam in certain situations (I am doing a DIY renovation, in Europe): - When going around an electric box or near electric connections I use fire-proof foam (it's the same, but has an additive, it is 3 times more expensive though). - Sometimes I use a specific foam for doors & windows, even if it expands at the same rate or similar one, the difference is noticeable a while after, it's kind of 'denser'. - When renovating roof curved tiles, you can use foam to 'fix them' together, there is a specific one that doesn't expand as much as the regular one (so it won't "lift" the tiles or expand until visible). There is one i'm eager to try but hadn't had a chance. It states that you can put drywall in place in like 60 seconds. I don't know if it's the regular one "with a sticker" on it, but the idea is that you put the foam in spots or lines (kind of what you did in the video) in the drywall and/or the surface you're installing it onto, wait 60 seconds to let the foam expand, put the drywall on the wall and let it dry. I guess it should work pretty good for old rock/brick walls being renovated (I don't like connecting the drywall with gypsum compound, due to gypsum being "thirsty"). P.S. in difficult locations, I attach a hose to the end of the can pipe (or remove the plastic pipe and replace it with a hose), that way I can insulate very narrow spaces and be able to hold the can upside down (there is one that works upright, but costs like 3x the price).

[@locomokko]

I am using the pro tip, like you show in the break, and despite it saying no need to shake, I have found shaking it for 30 seconds before use provides a much larger expansion. I love this stuff too. I also used it for Pest control with just the normal foam, and it worked fine... the critters don't try to dig through.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Thanks for sharing!

[@ViralRivers]

The window can says shake for 60 seconds. Not sure abt the others

[@tonyvolbeda952]

tip: in filling a big gap... have material on hand to temp. close the open side... once the expanding foam is introduced close the open side and secure... this will cause the foam to expand into the tiniest spaces (100th of an inch).. without this block it will actual form radiuses in the corners and the pressure of the expansion will just billow out of the area you're trying to seal

[@ooohlaa13]

how would you block it from escaping, would duct tape work? My house is settling and the wall is pulling away from the woodwork molding by about 1". I have in the past made big huge messes with spray foam, it just pours out of wherever I am applying. But I gotta do something I fear critters coming in for the upcoming North Central Florida winter temps which an go from 20 degrees to 50 degrees in one day, and then back down to the 30's etc.

[@gjkrisa]

Mmm i guess i did shoot this stuff behind an electric box used a block for the initial spray but after i was done was able to remove the block and never expanded farther then i sprayed and stayed put. They really have made it easier then it use to be. And loving the reusability also.

[@Curious0189]

Maybe apply some of the cleaner on the back of slab of wood or sheet metal that will temporarily serve as a means to cover penetration one is attempting to seal. I don’t know if that would work but it just came to mind after seeing Jeff use the solvent cleaner to clean the gun application tool.

[@Kims_Whims]

I'm thinking pizza pan and Pam. That's what I have round here

[@kevinporter1832]

Iam a electrician and I just bought a house .I love you're videos they are very helpful .you are truely talented at not only renovations but teaching others .

[@badbatch974]

They are different once they dry. They will have different textures and density. They also continue to expand for several minutes after placing. We use them on high rise form work a lot. I’ve probably used 20 different brands and some are impossible to remove after cured and some just flake off. The Hilti brand will stick to anything, like oil, wet surfaces, paint, concrete, steel, you name it. However if you need to clean up the area around the work later your going to hate yourself for using it. And a pro tip: either wear close you don’t like or something over them, because if you get this stuff on cloth it will never come off. Your better off letting it dry without touching it and try pull it off after than trying to wipe it while it’s wet.

[@daxinventor3542]

I recently used a liquid styrofoam filler in the base of my mail box and it was incredible. The new mail box post is in the ground and tighter than it has ever been before when I used concrete. If you want a real thrill, try putting a fence post or mailbox post in the ground using styrofoam instead of concrete. It worked like a charm for me. Wow!

[@GrahamMcHugh]

Very helpful! And if it might be of use to anyone, I used a can of previously used Great Stuff Windows and Doors foam from about 11 months ago today -- no problems at all. I had used it with the pro gun. After use, I removed the can, cleaned the gun with the Great Stuff cleaner, and then put the can back on for storage (as Jeff demonstrates in this video!). I was surprised it worked because it says to use within 30 days of first use on the can.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Thanks Graham, Cheers!

[@madgemccoy4695]

If it clogs just pour acetone and it will resolve out of the straw or nozzle.

[@noroomforgloom]

Hey my man you ain’t no politician, too honest. You sir are honest intel that I love to watch and learn from.

[@donmiller8712]

Jeff I love your channel. I used to do carpentry when I was a kid (framing). I'm 67 now and starting it again as a hobby, and just to fix things around my home. And typically I don't trust most of the contractors in my area, as they aren't as good as advertised, they do less than stellar work and expect premium dollars. So I'm catching up on 50 years of changes and really appreciate your efforts.

[@davidcongour61]

I'm the same age, and restoring a 1895 Victorian by myself. I don't have the stamina I once had, but I find that a lifetime of knowledge and wisdom compensates pretty well! Also, owadays, we have great videos like Jeff's here so we don't have to "experiment" so much on new techniques...

[@lesleyegbert4807]

As I stood in front of the shelf full of gap filler yesterday I thought, "Meh, it's all going to be the same," and bought the big gap filler. This video proved I was correct! Thank you, sir.

[@tobinwazzan]

Be a consumer advocate. I would rather hear true opinion. It will also pressure companies to find real solutions.

[@jjleda7324]

Little trick about cleaning the pro gun. Use good old fashion wd40. Cleans them right up. I'm in Wisconsin and none of the box stores stocks the cleaner. Out of desperation, I tried wd40, and it worked.

[@Webic33]

If you want to see if the window foam is different, mock up a few window jams and fill the voids with each type of foam and measure which one pushes the 3/4 board out the most.

[@designstudio8013]

Use a low expanding closed cell.

[@paulmacdonald7068]

@@designstudio8013 eye eye captain.

[@marztar]

​@@paulmacdonald7068 ​ @Paul Mac

[@gtdodgeviper]

That’s a video for project farm

[@miltonsperring5970]

I've been using this as an off label sheet rock or plasterboard fixer for about 15 years. However I used a metal gun that takes replacement canisters. I have even done a couple of ceramic tile splashbacks. For the plasterboard, it also makes an excellent packer where old framing is buckled. When the fixing screw starts to deform the board, you just undo the screw, squirt in a dab of foam, then redo the screw hand tight to hold the plaster board flat while the foam expands and sets. later you just screw in with your cordless drill. Makes an excellent wood glue for building forms, too.

[@lorriescott7036]

First off let me say Thank you for your time and hard work it takes to put together your videos. There are those of us that greatly appreciate it. I enjoy watching your videos not only for the information but for your personality. I find both to be very enlightening and informative.

[@nywvblue]

Ten years ago when I was rehabbing my 100-yr-old, dilapidated house, the foam expanded about 10x the volume that was sprayed. In order to use up a can on the same day it was opened, it was put everywhere around the foundation - I’m still chiseling the stuff back! (It turned into orange foam rocks.) Im very appreciative of your comparison, Jeff, because I would’ve been working under old information with the can of pest block I picked up.

[@virgilfisher1869]

thanks for showing the contractors gun, I was wondering how good they were and how to clean them, this really helped

[@fayvorite1]

I discovered a gap between my bathroom sink and the wall. Being retired on low income and a woman not knowing maintenance but knowing a maintenance man will charge me a week's worth of food, I turned to KZbin. So grateful for this video although it is two years old. I wish you the best.

[@ErictheRedCantona]

To be able to come back and use it again without the can sealing up is a step forward. The gun handle looks much easier to control. Thanks for the video.

[@PTechMedia]

Oh they're great. The controller on the gun is more so you can't accidentally set it off in your toolbox the gun is pressurised so even if you take the can off the stuff inside remains uncured liquid. I regret not getting a gun sooner... Even as a DIY. I've used it to fill so many things that now it's not something I regret using and destroy clothes like those single use cans. The control makes for such a clean job

[@jm-lc3jp]

@@PTechMedia Agreed. EVERYONE should get a gun. It turns one of the most messy, annoying, wasteful, dreadful experiences into a precise, efficient joy.

[@pravoslavn]

I nominate Mister T. for the World's Greatest Home Renovations Teacher Award ! Another winner video, Sir ! He has taught me the easy (and proper) ways of doing all kinds of work (beginning with dry wall and painting work.) Pennsylvania loves Mister T. ☺

[@koryleach9660]

The red can in the pro one is a fire blocking foam. (In the US anyhow.) I go through cases of it a month. I own an insulation and air sealing company. There is definitely a difference in the formulation of the window and door vs the fire blocking foam. The window and door one is a lot more pliable, the large ones cure really hard.

[@demonovationable]

Kory, I am going to air seal my 500 SF garage attic before I insulate and air condition it. I am in Texas where it's very hot. As a do-it-myselfer, which spray foam do you suggest I use? I also plan on getting a 2 foot long gun because I have a very low slope roof and getting to the top plates is difficult in some areas.

[@koryleach9660]

Cliff how are you insulating? Are you going to insulate above the Sheetrock then have net free space then the roof? If so I recommend the fire blocking in every electrical run. And around any junction boxes in the ceiling. To prevent air infiltration into / from the attic space. I’m also guessing that you’re using AC in you garage. I live in MN, so I heat mine. You’ll want to check with your building code for where/ if you use a vapor barrier. The other areas to air seal are any top plates. Basically you want to stop hot air from being able to get to cold air to make the insulation more effective. I insulated my attics to R-60 (20” of Owens Corning AttiCat.)

[@demonovationable]

I am having blown in insulation added. So I will be air sealing the drywall joints, around some IC rated lights, and the top plates. The ac is a ductless minisplit,.

[@koryleach9660]

Cliff yes, either fire retardant foam, caulk for electrical runs or you could go with a good elastomeric caulk for the air sealing instead. Both work the caulk is an instant seal as no cure time is needed.

[@als1023]

@@koryleach9660 Thank you for your contribution and taking the time to answer an excellent question. Always good stuff to learn here! I live on west coast Canada, and use that high level of attic insulation too, makes a difference, even in a milder climate. Used the bigger cans and gun for many years, best contribution of retro fitting windows I've made.

[@deryck6789]

Thank you for being honest about the product. Yes the formula has changed. It used to expand a lot more and if you did not use all the material in the can immediately, it was not good anymore and you had to throw away the can.

[@musicalatv]

When I was at McLendon's they said that the window one, once dry, was still a bit squishy and would allow the window to expand and contract at a different rate than the wood around it. This could be a difference that you would not be able to see just at the expansion rate. You'd have to test how squishy it is after it dried.

[@mitchellkasdin1899]

good point. You know Jeff likes those cans!

[@rt9tiger]

I'm going to try that stuff where my wall expands and contracts. Spackle / mud - it just cracks again. I've used RTV caulking [widen the crack, make sure the sides are rough so the stuff will adhere], and razored it smooth with the wall. It has some give, the latex wall paint has some give, lots more time between crack repairs. Flexible foam may be the best material yet.

[@dfl19034]

I can confirm that is stays "squishy" even after a couple of years. I did an octagonal window and only parts of the window foam is hard. I can still compress most if it with my finger.

[@Wimikk]

@@dfl19034 my home was built in 82, most recently renovated around 2005. Window foam is still very flexible.

[@huejanus5505]

Home Depot has a display set up with the different kinds of foam so you can poke and prod at them.

[@j4yma1ette]

Really appreciate this video. I'm a new homeowner, and I also have an 1800's house with a lot of gaps and cracks that need sealing. This video is just what I needed to get an introduction to expanding foam, how to use it and how it comes out. Two thumbs up!!

[@MyFortressConstruction]

There's definitely a difference to them. The window and door is a lot softer than the normal stuff and it doesn't expand a lot. I would never use another of the options around a window. The regular stuff and the pest are much harder once they cure, and they expand with significant pressure (they will bow 2x4s if they can't find a release point). They all have similar chemical components but they have been formulated for specific purposes and shouldn't be interchanged (fire block, pest block, original gap filler, large gap filler and door and window).

[@endicous]

That's a great tip: " if they can't find a release point". I guess no pressure if there is a release point eg around newly installed window

[@MyFortressConstruction]

@@endicous What happens though, is that the outside layer of polyurethane cures/hardens and the inside is still expanding against 3 sides. The lumber and sheathing are stronger than the window and the foam is stronger than the window frame, hence the bowing. If you keep cutting the outside layer of the foam while it hardens, then the pressure could be released outwards. It's just a lot more simple to use elastomeric caulking and window foam and not risk having to replace a window.

[@endicous]

There are videos on KZbin trying to prove the bending theory - no luck I must say. Property installed window should have adequate fixing which should be a lot stronger then the expanding foam pressure.

[@MyFortressConstruction]

@@endicous You have a point there, but typical window installation is done by the crew that also does the siding/sheathing/framing, so they won't always it with as many fasteners as the manufacturer wants, and it doesn't cost much more to stick to what's recommended by the manufacturer and is tried and true. Once a window is warped, it won't go back. So even if your brain is saying, "Why not?" There should be a valid reason to use the regular foam other than "Just because."

[@endicous]

That's a different subject. If a window frame is installed incorrectly then no point to talk about the site affects including foam pressure impact/ frame bending. All I want to say is that the pressure which comes from the expanding foam which has enough space to escape while curing is minimal

[@MrBuyerman]

Using your advice here in NZ to plan and build an outdoor shed, just using your techniques and not worrying about 5mm or 10mm and its all going up fine. Thanks for not bullshitting us on products, it's a bit like painkillers marketed as different but with the same ingredients.

[@Cameroner1]

So I'm a long time viewer, seen every video and love them all. I have this problem though that when I get around to finally doing the project I've watched a video about, I can't remember some of the fine details. I get into the isle of home depot and I've got a 4 hour drywall video to scrub through to figure out the mud options I'm looking at. It would be nice to have a little PDF for each topic that outlines some of the video. It would absolutely be worth a couple bucks to me. Like for the drywall it would have been nice to have a refresher about the mud types, a set of recommended, optional, and necessary tools and products, and a brief outline of what to do. Thanks for all you guys do!

[@Candisa]

You're absolutely right, it's the same here in EU. There used to be foam that bubbled up with a lot of force, foam that bubbled up without pushing things out of square, foam that barely expanded, foam that stuck like crazy... Now it's pretty much all the same low expansion stuff you have to empty a whole can around a single door that sticks to everything but the mounting side of the door frame. I believe it has to do with fire and insulation regulations, but like you say, if fire gets to the foam in most cases you'd better be long out of there anyways, and sometimes you just want to fill a gap to keep the noise and draft away without having the intention to build an ultra-insulated sealed zero-energy home.

[@charleskings-road2087]

It would have been good to see the density of each of the foams or maybe if there were other characteristics dealing with movement or weathering to give a fare comparison. :)

[@crisnmaryfam7344]

"would be nice if people where honest about these products" I think he said... lol...

[@jimtongas821]

I used a similar product several years ago for a friends electrical outlet that was leaking cold air. if I recall correctly, it did expand a lot more than the products you demonstrated. I do not recall the product she purchased; but, I was thinking the same thing when I watched you video.

[@binarymystic]

You are literally the best guy on KZbin doing what you do. Great work and great philosophy!

[@loudmouthfrog]

You are correct. 20 years ago I used Great Stuff, red can, to fill a void below a replaced floor deck in a boat. After 10 minutes it blew up to 3” diameter. I haven’t seen it expand that much since.

[@susantau]

Per your critique that the lines of foam all expand to the same size: The instructions on the can that I just bought (Sep 2021) of Crack and Gap filler (the red one) say to shake the can for at least 60 seconds. Since you didn't shake the cans, could that be why your foam lines didn't expand more satisfactorily? Maybe unrelated. But I also notice it takes many minutes for expansion to complete. Thanks for the tip on how to clean out the distributor!

[@dustinengel8468]

I bought the black can about a month ago and it says shake vigorously for 60sec as well. So who knows where he got his instructions @1:30

[@melissasmith4448]

Just started my own business and when in a bind your videos have helped me clear that mental hurdle and finish my project in a timely fashion. Thanks for the useful tips and tricks. Thanks again, take care and have a good day.

[@Neverkilltime]

I used all four kinds recently and they all expanded quite a bit except for the window foam. It came out the least dense. The pest block was super dense and the fire foam expanded the most I feel. I used pest block for most of my project then switched to the regular red gap filler cans as they’re the cheapest. They have new tips now too so you can close the tip and reuse it later.

[@nes999]

I've never sprayed fireblock, it sucks to chip out though.

[@masteringalltrades8144]

Brother I couldn't agree with you more. I'm a General contractor myself. I own the guns and the products. The red can when it first came out use to expand like a balloon. It should be closed cell foam same as the big gap filler and the blue was open cell foam way back when. This acts like open cell foam and you're spot on with the pressure in the cans being different.

[@jiggityjbeaver]

I've been liking the lock-tite expanding foam as opposed to the great stuff. Namely for doors/windows. It's easier to control and doesn't get so stiff when it's dry. The lock-tite still has a good amount of sponge to it. (And i typically make much less of a mess!)

[@Lughnerson]

1 - plan out everywhere you will use one can in advance. Spray until empty. 2 - if they all expand the same, definitely use fire retardant type anywhere near electric. Use pest control everywhere else. 3 - acetone or nail polish remover cleans it very well.

[@mitchellpurelife]

Great video Jeff. I agree that 15-20 yrs ago, the foam would really expand alot. It's definitely changed.

[@mariad4183]

Thank you Jeff! Your honest feedback is MUCH appreciated! You are awesome, keep up the good work! xoxo

[@D13fs]

I was just at Home Depot and these exact cans all said to Shake Well.

[@nova31337]

Same here, got a can yesterday that I'm staring at right now and it says "SHAKE vigorously - minimum 60 seconds" (all caps is how it's written on the can, so that's not my emphasis but theirs). Maybe that's why he's having expansion issues in the video?

[@StevedoesSMC]

Every time I watch one fo Jeff's videos I feel like I owe him money lol so much free value thats going to save me tens of thousands of dollars on renos. So grateful for this channel. Thanks Jeff and team!!

[@adrianvallejo3396]

Just yesterday I was using it and I was wondering why it hasn't expanded like I anticipated, now I know, thank you

[@daviddavis6096]

appreciate the genuine comparison without corporate hype

[@alexmaclean1]

I too remember as a teenager using this stuff with my grandfather maybe 15 years ago and the gap filler absolutely expanded like crazy, but I think even the regular version expanded more than it did in your test. They've probably found a cheaper way to make it so they can profit an extra Nickle per can.

[@JCWren]

They don't have to make it cheaper, they just need to make you use more of it. And that's exactly what they did.

[@johnalbertsen3112]

I have 3 cans of great stuff that I used once . went to use it again a month later and it didn't work . so thanks to your video I bought the metal gun , now no more clogged cans. thanks Jeff.

[@jerryn8881]

Jeff, you are the best at what you do! I have learned so much from you as a handyman and have used a lot of your techniques to earn a living. Your honesty and straight forward, real-talk is what sets you apart from all other contractors. 💯 Stay real! Keep up the AMAZING work! Also, to Max, amazing videography and you're a great assistant to your Dad. Keep up the awesome job. Thank you both for sharing all your great work. It's very much Appreciated!! 👏👏👍🏼👍🏼👊👊 Out of Brampton, Ontario Jerry

[@henrygiann9735]

Hi Jeff, I live in NSW Australia in a semi cold climate area of Lithgow, I'm a new homeowner of a 1950's house which I have started some budget cosmetic fix ups... Paint, replace skirtings & architraves, replace rotted wooden windows with aluminum... etc etc... I've decided to do up the laundry as it is an eye sore, it had exposed plumbing coming in through the asbestos walls and a plain laundry tub... the asbestos has been removed from inside from walls and ceiling and disposed of correctly. I have had the plumbing redone and ready to put Hardies Blueboard on walls and ceiling instead of gyprock being a "semi wet area"... I want to insulate the walls and ceiling... My dilemma is, the house has a metal corrugated roof with no sarking... just exposed metal underneath... (that's the 50's) I want to insulate it somehow on a budget and cannot afford to lift the roof and apply sarking to just 4sqm of ceiling... I've got to somehow eliminate any airgap between the metal and any of the insulation because of condensation... there is only 140mm of ceiling space as the back of the houses' ceiling is slopped... Similar to a Vaulted or Cathedral with no exposed rafters after it has the ceiling go up... Could I use a few of these cans to spray between the rafters including between the rafter and the angulation of the corrugated metal roof to get the job done... apologies for being longwinded, I ask as I'm on a very tight budget as I'm supporting my wife's cancer battle, and not much money is left for tradesmen.... Thank You...

[@osco4311]

A realistic test would be to spray the foam between two boards. You'll see the difference, not only in color, but in the density of the foam. You'll notice the difference by poking it with a screwdriver after it hardens. Heavier foams exert more pressure and expand less. Using heavy foam where light foam can cause warping, cracks and other damage.

[@mikejones-vd3fg]

I just used the blue stuff and red stuff, but i cant get inside the walls to see their expansion, however the blobs i cut off, which all had a chance to expand out equally, the blue stuff is a lot softer(windows filler), takes a lot less force to squish it flat compared to the red stuff (gap filler) which is almost unsquishable without a lot of force. I can see the bllue stuff being used for around windows that need to expand and contract and it should allow for that with its elasticity. I just bought a can of the black stuff, the big gap stuff and and curiouse to see how diferrent it reacts. My guess is it will be much like the red stuff, maybe not as dense but maybe has more of the expanding agent. At leaste i hope, I sort of wish i used more of the blue stuff around the windows knowing how hard the red stuff got although I havent seen any bowing yet in the summer it might be different. Id use the red stuff to fill cavities for insulation though, it does "feel" warmer, and if youre not worried about bowing id use that instead.

[@Artemeco]

thanks for the honest review. I totally and completely believe that they would use the same ingredients for each formula.

[@AfflictionAce]

I miss the old great stuff. I still like the stuff, but it’s definitely more like “the only stuff” available that’s convenient to use and doesn’t cost a fortune. Thanks for this video, Jeff! I never thought to test the different types against each other.

[@kevinlauterburg5765]

You are one hundred percent right. Foam in the can isn't the same. In thr past I made a back rock wall for fish tank that you cut with a hot knife to make. And filled a window that broke the glass because it expanded too much.

[@josecarcano6445]

Great info. Could you do a test with a different brand and the one you used in this video. 👍🏼

[@theemekanix]

I like that you aren't sponsored. We the consumer need honest opinions like this. Otherwise you are just a commercial.

[@TrinitronX]

Great comparison of these “different” foams! It’d be great to see a comparison between different brands. Especially between the “fireStop” vs. “fireBlock” types. There’s a couple videos that do a flame test where not all “fire*” foams perform well.

[@BenVanCamp]

You sound like a programmer.

[@TrinitronX]

@@BenVanCamp It's probably because I am 🤣

[@bethmills2233]

I love your smile...I watched you build a big shed...I smiled a lot cuz you are fun. Thank you for being you with a smile

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

😊 thank you

[@adam4skateboarding]

I feel like I am catching up with my Dad every time a new video is posted.

[@jonk3529]

Haha that is so true!! Thanks for putting my exact feeling into words

[@Coder-zx4nb]

Same. I wonder if Jeff is currently taking adoptions XD

[@JasperCLoren]

@@Coder-zx4nb He should start apprenticeship program

[@ThaneKaiden]

I've said literally the same thing, to the point where my wife refers to Jeff as "Canadian Dad." 😂

[@kimberlynguyen124]

Jeff is every Canadian’s dad at this point

[@lou196t]

Thanks for being a straight up guy. I totally agree that one is as good as the other. Pick your favourite colour of can.😉👍 Futher, I believe that many companies have been faking it for a long time. 🤬

[@w666est]

LOVE LOVE LOVE Jeff and your channel. You’ve given me so much great advice and confidence to tackle so many jobs. Keep this coming. There’s no problem with taking some money to show us a product as long as they don’t mind you being honest about it and you think we want to hear about it. You got to make a living as you are helping us all out.

[@anthonysmith9410]

Hi jeff....I watched this again.... so true about spray foam... I use osi quad max...I have the gun.. it dries in two minutes ......thanks

[@fireblaster9961]

When using the metal professional gun make sure you get that valve screw propped tight so no air can get in, one can will last forever as long as air doesn’t get in applicator

[@DrunkJackal]

There absolutely is a difference in the expansion. I first tried the gap and crack Great Stuff around a door frame. As expected, the pressure around the frame made it very difficult to open the door. I ended up digging it all out with a knife and reapplied with the window and door formula. The door now opens and shuts flawlessly.

[@trevor5929]

I was wondering myself about the lack of foam in the Big Gap can. When this stuff came out about 25 years back I used it to fill a void between joists. It must have grown to 50 times its initial spray size. I had to cut away a ton if overfill. But it was definitely giving my monies worth. I could have done a complete wall with a can. Now they detuned it to only give you a little and hope you run out to buy more!

[@tst.v2926]

I accidentally used it in the wrong place. But it took 10 minutes or more to completely expand. Now I was used to the old stuff so I got a ton to trim. I swear the old expanded fast. I was filling and filling and later I’m like well surprise.

[@000one]

i have an idea that the old high expansion foam caused problems, like windows and doors that were affected by the preasure created by the expansion being too great for the application. I have been using this Great Stuff for years, and I have seen a change. It is less likely to over tighten a window, door, ... What you might want to do is cut those different gobs of foam and look inside at the size of the air bubblles inside. Also you might want to use it how it is actually designed to be used. Make yourself a plywood box with the inside dimensions 2 inches wide, 6 inches deep, and 12 inches long, kinda like an opening of a 2 by 6 , 12 inches long. That would show how it is actually applied in the field, and the difference. The open air is setting up the outer shell, not letting it set and expand like it was designed. Just my opinion. Thanks for the videos

[@TastySurrealBowl]

You’re absolutely right about how the basic version of the product used to expand exponentially more. In the mid ‘80s I had an old car that was so rusted out stuff used to fall out of the trunk through the wheel wells, and there wasn’t much left of the bumper except the thin chrome plating. I filled the entire bumper and the huge gaps in the wheel wells with less than half a can. By the time I got rid of that car it was more foam than metal. I recently used up a couple cans filling just a few gaps (in a house - not a car this time).

[@anotherOneMore7]

Thanks for the clarification. The way the labels read, they make it sound like it will spontaneously combust under normal circumstances if you use it in in an enclosed space like a wall.

[@tankbyte1135]

This guy is amazing and full of knowledge. I wish I knew half of the stuff he has forgot over the years

[@christinastella6]

Could we clean that foam with thinner ? Should we wait until dry to clean ?

[@emmanuelsilva3541]

Just like shampoo, one for this, one for that, in reality it is the same product! Unfortunate, consumers like all ,fall for marketing. love your channel!👏👏👏🍻

[@peterl4813]

Been there. If it hardens on your hands you almost have to soak your hand with acetone. Acetone is not too good for you. I'll be wearing latex gloves next time.

[@Jermusicislife84]

This was actually a very helpful video. I knew NOTHING about Home Improvement a few years ago. I started working at The Home Depot and I've been slowly learning. My family and I moved into a house from an Apt late 2020. I've had to use the Pest Foam to stop mice, but I only need a little bit at a time, the straw gets clogged and it's garbage. I'm going to get a dispenser gun and the cleaning can!

[@kentsavick2516]

FYI: the cleaner is just acetone in a pressurized can. You can probably save some money just buying regular acetone, except for the pressurized "gun" cleaning.

[@robertlitman2661]

I've used straight acetone. It's a fair cleaner, but the aerosol cleaner can I have works better. Also, the gun cleaner can I have comes with an aerosol cap I can use when it's off the gun, to spray down a rag to clean things (like my hands). It's very convenient.

[@andyh7537]

A good pressurized substitute is brake cleaner. It works great to clean tools and will also remove it from your skin. Like acetone, it's not very good for your skin health, but neither is foam. 😉

[@brodriguez11000]

@@andyh7537 : Well one is suppose to wear gloves. Nothing fancy. Nitrile gloves will do. Kitchen gloves will do in a pinch.

[@captaincolten]

I am looking to seal up my attic with foam myself. Some products say its water resistant others don’t. I appreciate your honesty and calling these products out for actually not being very different. Is this a great product for sealing up an attic or would you suggest another? I see your saying all of this brand fill the same etc. and you’d probably just use the one but my question is really about water resistance etc. I do not want issues later. Thank you in advance for your help and response!

[@myronp243]

Use a 3/16ths piece of polyurethane tubing on the end of the tip for those crazy hard spots

[@rosemartinezmolinas7786]

You Are The Real Deal!!!! Very Knowledgeable- Very entertaining… Thank You!!!

[@Agent22817]

Now that you mention it and I look at the MSDS for both the big gap filler and the pest block... their components are really similar and I don't see anything unique about the pest block!

[@SS-kg6ns]

the color different :O

[@1ronhall]

Excellent review ….. I need to buy a case to attempt to air seal my attic. I hope the great stuff is the best product to use for all the penetrations: plumbing, electrical, hvac, rim joists, bathroom vents ….. etc etc etc

[@trat50]

Jeff, If you are looking for a difference - you need to do a DIFFERENT test! Your "expanding foam drag race" did not put anything under compression!! Get 4 empty paper milk cartons, fill each one with a different type of foam. Now close each milk carton tightly! (You may need to use some sort of a clamp or clothes pins to close each carton tightly). You should find the 3 times expand foam BLOWING OUT the container. You should also find the window and door foam NOT distorting the empty paper milk carton (or at least not so much). OK, so there you go, now you have an idea for another test and another video - Have Fun!

[@NyteWaves]

I was wondering if it needed to be under some resistance or something else is going on. Or maybe they are legit ripping us off.

[@lostinmyspace4910]

I have been watching this guy from Canada put out great content videos on home improvement for years. This GREAT STUFF video is an eye opener, and he's got our back on products we choose to buy. Point is, don't just watch his video without giving him a THUMBS UP. He deserves at least that much from us, as we deserve consumer product information. It's cost effective to come here first before we waste our money, on products that may not be best choice; Allow him to choose for us by demonstration and the proof will be before your eyes. I hail from Michigan. THUMBS UP!!!

[@myronp243]

One of the problems I found in those small cans is you have little control.Trimming the access shows you waste at least 1/2 A can.I'm looking at the pro nozzle and can.

[@kevinfarley661]

maybe i missed it in your videos but i am looking for tips on whether i can use 'great foam' or some other product to lift a concrete slap.

[@christophercast5290]

Thank you for having our back as consumers.

[@gray09r56]

I’m glad you finally did a video on GreatStuff foam. I used it initially, but I would agree with you. It’s not that great. At the local big box store in the states there’s GreatStuff and Loctite Foam. Before Loctite I wasn’t even happy with GS but there were no other products. I hated that the foam would change colors in certain weathered conditions. I know you’re not suppose to use it outside, but to fill holes temporarily until you could patch concrete so that pests wouldn’t get in (this is before their pests foam) I would fill a hole. But the characteristics of each foam seems to be the same. They don’t all expand as much as you would think they were rated for. I immediately switched to Loctite when it was introduced seeing right in front of my eyes it did what it said it did. They now have regular, big gap, and window/door. The downside is they don’t have positive tips nor gun handles. In certain situations I have also used Rigid foam and guns. But they’re really expensive, more than GS and Loctite put to together, but got a couple cans from a friend who’s a professional when it comes to insulation; but having to go out on your own and buy the same cans to keep consistency when you ran out is pricey. Rigid foam all works and performs as advertised.

[@twiincentral8780]

Started watching you before I even got a house, thank you for all you do!

[@shilohii]

Youre a fine craftsman and even better communicator. I appreciate you!

[@MicahMcLellan]

I've long contemplated getting a reusable gun and this almost sealed the deal. I noticed though that the one-time foam cans (usually 12 oz) are cheaper by the ounce (roughly 2.50) compared to the larger pro cans (roughly 20-24 ounces at anywhere between $9-14 a can). So the reusable gun is great if you can't go thru 12 oz at once, but otherwise cheaper going the one-time use route...

[@wagzz]

The pro guns gun cans are reusable. In fact, you can just leave the foam in the gun if you want like he did. So you could use a little at a time for years. But at some point you'll have to clean the gun. But the can is reusable always.

[@jbrandt7]

The gun is also adjustable for spray amount- so you don't have to hold your trigger at a specific position- you can adjust the knob and it helps maintain a consistent bead.

[@dymondwillow2]

Thanks for showing how to use the metal gun. I have one and the can to go with it but was afraid to use it because the store (HH) does not carry the solvent to clean it and spending $80.00 was a bit too much for a one-time use.

[@jessesmiley4545454]

teaching me all the shit my dad never taught me..

[@ballsdeep9648]

LOL for me it's more like teaching me all the shit my dad tried to teach me, but I wasn't listening.

[@brianbass8574]

If u got daddy issues come on over I'm about to throw some burgers on the grill champ

[@tch632]

@@brianbass8574 deliverance plays in the background

[@erichsh58]

I'm retired, and only now just learning how to use all the tools I inherited from my Dad after he passed away. 50 years after I watched him work as a a kid I still remember some of his tricks.

[@mariad4183]

@@ballsdeep9648 ...seriously! A bunch of us are looking at our feet right now!

[@huejanus5505]

I have had such bad luck with cans of foam like that. At best, they work once, oftentimes they won’t dispense at all. I had to do a large foam job sealing up around the sill area in my foundation before finishing my basement, so i opted to spend the money on a dispensing gun which uses the screw on foam canisters. Works extremely well, doesn’t clog up even after a month, comes with finer plastic tips to reach into small crevasses and you can adjust the flow for finer work. As well, i bought a length of clear plastic tubing to stuff on the dispensing tip to access those awkward spots by extending my reach. The guns aren’t cheap, but if you’re doing a larger job you’ll definitely be ahead in the $ aspect.

[@teddepalma8057]

Great content, as usual. And you've been reading my mind again as I just bought a can of the Window and Door foam to fill some gaps. Really good to see the side-by-side comparisons of these products.

[@KrampusVsChristmas]

I’ve been watching you for years now. I’ve redone several homes watching your videos. I love your videos. Thank you sincerely.