Is it Worth the Money? Froth-Pak Sealant 200 Spray Foam Insulation

[@edbrackin]

Thanks for taking the bullet for the rest of us who were wondering about options.

[@FortKnoxCo]

lol. Yeah. It was fun to try out. But I wish I could have gotten a lot more out of it. Worked as I expected though as far as how the foam grabs, expands and sets. You’re just paying a premium price to do it yourself.

[@adayoftruthandknowledge6357]

I was told by some friends that work framing and construction to use the 2 part foam to insulate my 30x24 shop ceiling. What a HUGE mistake! Being in Florida the heat was 90 degrees and the product would setup in the nozzles within 9 seconds. I couldn't get down from the ceiling, move the ladder and get back up in 9 seconds. So, I went through all my nozzles before getting a 1/4 done. I had to regroup, buy more nozzles [not cheep] and a second kit. I realized that 1 $800 kit wasn't going to provide the coverage I needed. This project was a nightmare, cost over $1800 and left a big mess--over spray. Honestly, the over spray was my fault for not masking EVERYTHING. If I had to do it again, I'd strap mat insulation to the ceiling or pay someone else to do it. Oh, thanks for the video and I'm sure you answered most peoples questions--thanks for posting.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Aww man. See that right there can be information gold to DIY’r. I’m sure there’s other people thinking about using these kits and they need real world info and experiences to see what they can plan for.

[@stanwinkowitsch4809]

The guys who did my shop did blow in insulation in the ceiling, they didn't recommend foam up there

[@Gary-ce2hk]

What about toxic fumes in case of a fire. Used can stay foam to seal holes around roll bars in racecar. Big mistake. Cut it all back out the first time I got near with torch or welding. Very very toxic gas

[@paperburn]

Most spray foam manufacturers specify a substrate temperature somewhere between 60 and 80F . Keeping the air and surface temperature within the range of 60°F to 90°F ensures proper expansion, curing, adhesion, and bonding of the foam. even a few degrees above 90 will screw you over.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@ yes not good when catching on fire. Many things in your home when on fire will give off toxic fumes.

[@gimpygardner3377]

In 2020, I built a 1650sf ranch house in Chicago. It is 2x6 construction (required in my county for insulation). My insulation contractor quoted $2000 extra to add 2 inches of foam to the walls. My gas for 2023 was $1200 and my electric was $1400. The house seems very efficient, but it is also very quiet inside and the 2" of foam adds rigidity to the structure. Best $2k I've ever spent.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah that’s a really good idea. The foam layer will create a really good thermal envelope to seal the structure. And the noise canceling qualities, that’s awesome.

[@SlaughterAjani]

Now all you need is solar and you can eliminate your electric bill 💸💸

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@SlaughterAjani we do have solar 🤑🤑🤑

[@gimpygardner3377]

​@@SlaughterAjani The problem with solar is the up front cost. Typically $50k. That would take 30-40 years to break even. Unfortunately, cheaper to buy it from the electric company, unless you are truly off grid and power is not available.

[@hermancm]

@@gimpygardner3377I had a modest 12 panel 5.4kW grid-tied ground mounted array put in last year for $16,000 or a little more than $10,000 after a state credit of $1,000 and the federal tax credit of 30% it takes care of most of my usage even with a lightly used EV.

[@erikev]

After seing this, I decided to get a professional to avoid a shit show. Thanks for the video.

[@FortKnoxCo]

lol. Yeah. If it’s a big job I’d recommend having a company come out and get it done

[@troyandrus982]

Boy I don’t know where you’re from but from where I’m at all of our sheeting seams have to land on studs and all horizontal seams have to have blocking. You’re doing right by sealing the base. Any crack, hole, cut in or pass through needs sealed. Even do between baseplate and concrete. The more you seal the better. Air movement in a house should be totally controlled.Thanks for the video

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thanks. Yeah I hear what your saying. I’ve explained this a few times in the comments. But all the sheathing you see missing a stud is just me trying to save some time and not make a bunch of special cuts, but in areas that aren’t marked to be shear walls. There were about 5 sections on the build scheduled at shear and they all lang on studs and are nailed to a specific schedule. I went above and beyond with just sheeting the whole structure and not filling in anywhere with foam board to support the stucco. I sheared the entire structure but did have a couple spots where it landed inbetween and I just left it. I applied some blocking in some spots. But on the shear wall sections it was all solid and blocked out. Wouldn’t have been able to pass my insulations if it wasn’t. 🤙🏼 I appreciate the feedback. I know everyone seems those floating ends and it makes them cringe

[@mr.c6674]

Excellent demonstration Sir! This is exactly what I was looking for. I may use this for my 16X24 sher build. Thank you for spending the time for a "normal people" use video. 😊

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your welcome! Thats what I was going for. Didn’t want to embellish anything and just kinda see how it went and show what it was like for me. That way ppl could make their own decision and have realistic expectations

[@Nelson4207]

​@@FortKnoxCoI feel like savings vs convince and risk just isnt worth it, im gonna just go with fiberglass rolls of insulation, i certainly appreciate the knowledge you shared 👍

[@FortKnoxCo]

@ no problem at all. I still put the fiberglass in all the way around. But this did help seal up the bottom corners and a couple hard to reach areas. 🤙🏼 it’s not cheap stuff to play with though. lol.

[@derekcorreia7135]

Thank you for being honest brother and stright forward. Some people post and try and blame things on the equipment ect. You were stright up appreciate you. Good work by the way!!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thanks I really appreciate that. I wanted to try n be straight forward and show good and bad stuff I experienced. There’s too many infomercials out there showing perfect installs. We learn more from the mistakes.

[@deankay4434]

This is a 1:1 spray mix like certain automotive paint, panel bonding, seam sealer or even drip well sealant. So having equal parts coming thru the tip is important. Like and oxygen tank for a torch or propane for the grill, the valve has a double seal, one at the top wide open and close. It works best to spray the studs where they met the sheeting material to get a seal, then the field from the bottom up and gravity makes it sag until it skins over. Clean up can be done with acetone and just make sure to have rags and compressed air if possible to completely clean after adding a solvent. Still, like he said, lay down a drop cloth or plastic but tape the plastic. It’s like pulling up carpet then padding. Not only do you have a thousand staples but piles of drywall compound on the floor where the drywall guys dropped it. Great video!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Great great Info right here. Thank you for adding this. I’m sure some DiY’rs are going to find it helpful. 🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@deankay4434]

@@FortKnoxCo Thanks you kindly for your words.

[@richardeicholtz4868]

There's a lot of terrible videos on this product. Thank you for making a good video that actually talks about the experience of using it and not just what it's suppose to do.

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s exactly what I was trying to go for. I saw lots of videos of what it’s supposed to do and it always turned out Perfect it seems. But we all know that’s not how DIY stuff goes. So I wanted to give it a shot and try it out for myself and figured I’d be pretty candid about the experience. Overall, it was fun, but definitely not cost-effective if you’re going to be doing a whole entire house.

[@richardeicholtz4868]

@@FortKnoxCo Maybe the other guys were sponsored and couldn't afford to be honest? Either way very uninformative. Do you think it's suitable for air sealing an attic? That's what I'd be using it for. If not do you know a product that might be?

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@richardeicholtz4868 it would depend on how many square feet you are needing to cover and your access ability. It will definitely spray and stick to whatever surface you’re sealing. So it will hit and expand for sure. I’d go for the red box with 650 feet coverage. You can choose the straight spray or fan spray depending on how you want to cover stuff. But it’s good stuff. Just not the cheapest. Unless you compare a quote from another company to see $/sqft. They have those 24 can packs that use a spray nozzle and you can get coverage but from what I could see it doesn’t expand as much as these bigger tank packs and having the stuff actually mix at the nozzle

[@richardeicholtz4868]

@@FortKnoxCo Got it. Good point on the mix. It's hard to find some clear cut videos on substances to use for air sealing. Plenty videos on how to but not many saying I use "this". I just happened to be in Lowe's rust and saw the stuff there and figured I'd start researching on KZbin. So worse case I have that to fall back on.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@richardeicholtz4868 it will definitely seal air tight. That it will do. You will know best how you want to apply to what area/surface. But it will 100% seal whatever it sticks to. I got A/C running in my casita and I’m about to get my thermal envelope test certificate done. We’ll see what they say as far as the thermal envelope rating.

[@kniteprince3798]

I used this in our camp, in the floors. Walls ceiling everything was WELL insulated, but the floor was not insulated? SO we were getting condensation forming on the floors... I had about 16 inches to squeeze under the place.... God what a PAIN to do... Having said that? Once it WAS finished, condensation problem was solved. Dragging the tanks along with so little clearance was a nightmare, but it sprayed well, expanded well, and fixed our problem, AND I could do it myself. Our lowest quote to HAVE it sprayed was over ten grand.... Doing it myself cost me a bit over two grand. Almost a year in at this point, so cant comment on how well it will hold up... Also put skirting on the camp, and sprayed that as well for that price.

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s awesome!! Save yourself a ton of money.

[@clem95627]

Can this be sprayed on the back of skirting tin to increase the R value, or should I just foam board it?

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@clem95627 I believe it can. I’ve seen ppl spray it right onto the inside of steel buildings and sheds. It sticks to pretty much anything

[@Jared_Albert]

Thank you very much for posting and generating the comments. Didn’t actually watch the video just read the comments and sorry for what you went through

[@FortKnoxCo]

You welcome 🤙🏼 I try my best to reply to every comment. I feel like if someone takes the time to comment it’s the least I could do. Plus people sometimes have really good questions that if we get and answer to them we can help others with the same question. The project turned out pretty good. It was fun to use the product. Learned a lot in the process

[@caroltalbert3598]

Besides closing gaps at the bottom, it's great for filling in around electrical boxes, pipes, and other obstruction that are otherwise difficult to seal and insulate around. If you choose closed cell, doing the entire wall will provide vapor barrier and a good air flow seal.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I totally agree. It is great for all that. It was fun to use and good to see first hand how it actually applies. I would use it again but for specific applications like you mentioned. If I were to do a whole house to fill entire cavities in place of standard insulation I would probably hire out the job though. Using diy kits could be a little pricey

[@rs2024-s4u]

Thanks for the demo and now I know to pass on the DIY larger than a rattlecan spray foam products. Once again thanks for taking the time to make the video. Ray Stormont

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome. I was hoping to show people what they can realistically expect when buying one of these kits and how it actually works when you’re applying it.

[@tomoaktree4951]

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing all of the quirks in using this type of setup. I was going to get one of these, but now with the way I will need to be stopping and starting a few minutes later, that rattle cans are likely my best option.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I’m happy you found it helpful and informative. My goal was to show the good and bad so people had a realistic expectation and could do exactly like you said. It’s fun to use though. The cans will be just as fun I bet.

[@dylandanner9254]

Great video. I’m using this product to insulate my camper van project and you gave me a lot more confidence to do this

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s great to hear. It was fun to use and overall pretty easy. If you’re doing more of a full fill of a cavity and walls you might want to use the 600 pack. Has more coverage and you can still use the straight tip or the fan tip. Either way it’ll work good. Sticks to whatever surface your spraying it on well

[@judymartin668]

VERY VERY VERY HELPFUL!!!!!!!!!! Helpful on how to do it, how much to charge to do it, and little things to make it go faster and keep it clean!!!!!! I wish i could shake your hand Sir! Thank you!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you! I really appreciate that. I was hoping to provide a little insight on the foam kits and what to realistically expect

[@abbswinston4258]

Every home builder needs to make sure they do this for new builds.

[@FortKnoxCo]

That would be nice if builders cared enough and paid more attention to the little details. If and when I start building homes for sale, I’ll be making sure to do all these little things that the homeowner will appreciate.

[@johnyb9884]

Dude. You definitely have the gift of gab.. that said, it is a gift. Wish I could talk like you. --Would’ve liked to see you scan the whole area you worked the product to get an idea of how much it covers. You said it covered your house and then some. I want to see what you did. Thanks for the video. I watched it all and gave it a like.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Haha. Yeah. I’ve gotten comments on my video that I like to “hear myself talk”. 🤷🏼‍♂️ I’m trying to get to the point but also trying to give enough details to emphasize certain things I think will help the DIY’r. That being said I know what you’re saying, I tried to show a bit but didn’t know if it’d be worth doing a whole walk around with video for ppl. Sometimes you lose people when you start doing house tours and they weren’t there for that portion. It was about 1,100 sqft of living space I was able to go around the base cavities with. Then had some extra spray to play with and also use it the garage areas. But not much extra after the living space.

[@davepetrakos475]

Thanks for sharing your experience. Now I know to have EVERYTHING ready before cracking open the spray gun. I would prefer this product over shaking the cans. Froth pack also appears to shooting at higher velocity compared to cans that basically dribble in contrast.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah I think it worked as expected, but like you said having things all in place, plan a route so you don’t have much stopping time and to switch out the tips as you need. But it stuck to the surfaces super good and I got a decent amount of coverage out of the 200 pack

[@stevodakine1]

Thanks man! There is a lot of product in those cans, more than I expected.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah it did a good job for what I wanted. Ended up having more than I needed for all the bottom cracks and sealing outlets

[@stevodakine1]

@@FortKnoxCo I just used two single cans in my shop, it worked great. I must admit, that stuff if messy and hard to control. On the hand held can I would recommend to anyone quarter squeeze to create a straight uniform line. Anymore and it’s goes crazy and is unpredictable.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@stevodakine1 yep for sure. It takes a learned touch to get the technique down. The spray gun kit that I used sticks to what it being applied to a lot better than coming out of a can and spray tube. It’s more liquid spray and immediate sticks and starts to expand. The cans seem to expand out of the tip of the tube and don’t grab as easily and the big kits. Thats the biggest difference I think overall.

[@sethbracken]

Yeah, thanks for putting down $400 to do this. I’ve been wondering about these for a while now.

[@FortKnoxCo]

No prob. It was fun to play with but obviously has its limitations and places I would or wouldn’t use it. For a whole house … no way. But for spot sealing or small addition maybe a fun choice.

[@stanwinkowitsch4809]

My shop has 2" thick foam throughout the walls. I'm in Iowa & on a 100 degree day it's around 60 degrees in there. On a zero degree day it's above 32. Any construction I do will have foam

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s awesome to hear. Sounds like it been a good investment sure.

[@CheckinHose]

this is exactly why you should get foam professionally installed

[@FortKnoxCo]

You should definitely get some quotes and see what will work for your specific situation

[@cebusam7545]

Had a friend who did insulation, his girlfriend cheated on him, he took a 25 lb foam and opened it up and threw it in her car, shut the doors. She wasn't in it. But needless to say, couldn't open the doors.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Aww man. Thats pretty creative. I woulda like to see how that car looked afterwards

[@stanwinkowitsch4809]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@hermancm]

Oh wow! She got punked! Hope she learned from it.

[@jeffreykindron7162]

​@@hermancm maybe she had good reason to cheat on him . What he did was criminal.

[@hermancm]

@@jeffreykindron7162 It definitely was criminal and it would have probably been better to just walk away.

[@michaelbezanson5456]

Great job showing how to use spray foam kit.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you!

[@sartoaj]

Good video! When the mfg. says its a "Professional Use Only" product, they really mean it. I sprayed the underside of my roof in 2020. (2) 620 kits cost me around $1600, good for 2" of closed cell foam on a 700sqft house. Saved $1500 vs. a pro.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thanks. Yeah there’s definitely a learning process when using it. It’s probably not for every job but is fun to use.

[@patrickdowning1328]

I got quoted $20,000 to do a 1600 ft gambrel two-story garage walls and roof that was two years ago

[@patrickdowning1328]

I ended up using fiberglass and did it on myself for a few hundred dollars

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@patrickdowning1328 holy ! 😳

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@patrickdowning1328 yeah that sounds like a lot better way to go. $20k is a little crazy

[@WisconsinDIYGuy]

That bit of foam at the bottom of the stud bays won't air seal much. I saw cracks between the sheathing higher up on your walls letting light in. I would recommend a sealant meant for that. They are like caulk. It'd be cheaper and work with a thin coat. Almost 2 inches of foam are required to be a moisture barrier. Less for air barrier. I just foamed a room. I saved maybe 30-40% over a pro but what I got was a 100% fill. They don't fill all the way to avoid trimming foam. Unless you pay more labor. I also made sure everything was done correct in the corners and air sealed everything else.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Good information 🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@balancebringer7888]

I wish I saw this earlier, changing the tip. Cans were getting close to empty and all I got out was spurts so I wanted to let the tanks empty before disposing of them. I clamped the trigger and stuck the nozzle into a garbage bag in the garage to empty. An hour later I came back to find a pile of hardened foam out of the garbage can and out on the floor. The nozzle was just clogged and cleared sometime after I set it up in the garage, lesson learned. I had to cut the hardened foam into sections with a hand saw so I could fit it into a garbage bags. At least I know the tanks were empty now

[@FortKnoxCo]

Aww man 😣 sorry to hear this. Yeah the main reason I wanted to make the video was because I know like every other DIY’r that your planned projects don’t always go as planned. And the work around or seeing common problems will be the best learning Info. And every video I found on foam products kits showed the ideal install and everything went perfect. So I wanted to see for myself and show what I learned good and bad.

[@dagobey]

Thanks Very good information that you put out about the product I feel more comfortable to buy this product and try it out my self instead of spending thousands of dollars to pay a spray foam contractor to do it for me

[@FortKnoxCo]

You’re very welcome. It was fun to use and overall not too bad. I could have put some stuff down on the floor to make clean up a little easier but even then it wasn’t bad. It does what it’s advertised to do as far as filling gaps and sealing up.

[@KennethDavis-s4u]

Thanks for the video. Sure answered a lot of questions for me and help me to decide that the product was going to do what I needed it for. Thanks again.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome 🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@DavidMcgann]

I’ve hired pros diy froth pac and my go to for small projects has to be the cans of great stuff… don’t shake the can, don’t use the straw ( unless you use a ball needle with regulated compressed air) one can will do 65% of a 2”x4”16” o.c. Stud cavity at 3” foam . Got to move side to side Quickly!

[@FortKnoxCo]

🤙🏼🤙🏼

[@commonsense5105]

Looks like you could benefit from going back and do horizontal joints on your exterior OSB.

[@FortKnoxCo]

💯

[@johnsonsinsulation]

I recently used Froth-Pak Sealant 200 and found it to be effective for sealing gaps, though it is a bit pricey.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I agree. It did well with sealing and adhering to the surfaces. Loved that. But yes it’s a bit pricey. I think it’s a good option for a small project.

[@johnsonsinsulation]

@@FortKnoxCo Thanks for agreeing! For larger projects, I've been looking for more cost-effective options. Have you tried any other products that work well for sealing gaps?

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@johnsonsinsulation I’ve only tried the single spray cans I’m sure we have all found at the big box stores. But this was the first real spray gun set up I’ve tried.

[@williamwise9360]

Thanks! I’m going to try foam board for my project instead. Then, supplement with spray foam

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s a good idea too. There’s its benefits and limitations. Best overall in my opinion is a combination like your saying

[@danielfantino1714]

Thanks for the experiment. Does the manufacturer made video on how to or not to do ?

[@FortKnoxCo]

They have videos on how to do. But don’t really go into what to expect as problems or areas of concern. It’s usually the “ideal” installation. Everything that needs to happen.

[@danielfantino1714]

​@@FortKnoxCo Thanks for asnswering. You´re probably right about bras of company promotionnel vidéo in a too perfect world.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@danielfantino1714 yeah, anyone can show the perfect application and use for a product. But I wanted to try n give a more candid video experience so ppl could see what it’s like for real. Every diy’r knows things don’t always go as planned or per the directions.

[@davidlesley8884]

Is this cheaper then purchasing the cans?

[@FortKnoxCo]

For the advertised coverage yes. I was doing the math on a couple can combo kits and these box kits and it seems like you save a little bit with the big box kits vs the 12 can sets or 24 can sets. Just depends on the prices they are at though obviously. I’ve seen them both go up and down in pricing

[@hermancm]

I have a 40 YO garage here in (sometimes) very cold NW Wisconsin that I want to seal up and insulate then heat it at 50 degrees or so in the winter and I think I might do this to seal the bottom of the framing cavities before I put batts in like this.

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s what I mainly used it for. Sealing up cracks and around stud to exterior contacts.

[@seen48]

Sorry do you stick the tip in before you apply or after you apply the petroleum jelly? I would think after.😂 Seriously, it looks like a pretty good way of definitely closing any gaps on the bottom or through light switches etc. I’ve always wondered about this product. It does seem a bit liquid, leaving drops all over the place. Thanks for all the info!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Haha. Yeah no problem. I had a lot of questions too. It was fun to use. The dripping wasn’t too bad. I was trying to rush because I didn’t know how fast I needed to keep moving. But if I would use it again I know I could keep it to a minimum.

[@JohnFinzel]

I would use the Frothpak for gaps and leak points but traditional insulation for warmth.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I agree.

[@Eric_from_the_North]

Call the Pro. You will spend 10X the money buying Froth Pak. Not only that, you need to know what your doing because it can turn to a disaster very quickly.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah if it’s a big job it might be better to hire out the whole thing.

[@FortKnoxCo]

💯

[@frankdickinson7063]

I think I would agree, I've used these kits a few times and I probably spent more DIY'ing it than I would have hiring it out

[@Controlled_Insanity_003]

It can, but if you always "call the expert" then you'll never learn to do for yourself

[@nordicpride9708]

It’s not rocket science there buddy

[@TripPiper]

What happens if the chemicals don’t mix right?

[@FortKnoxCo]

Then you’ll get a soupy substance and it won’t expand as it should. Goopy waters mix, more dark yellow looking too. If that’s the case you probably have a bad nozzle tip. And if the new nozzle doesn’t help you may have a defective unit.

[@marklortie4681]

Make sure the can temperature is right they have a gage on them if it is to cold it will not mix right

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah that’s what I’ve been getting a lot of feedback back on, temp seems to be a big factor for this stuff

[@SI-em1zn]

I did some of this and purchased a 720 froth pak (in maybe 2017 can't even find this size on Amazon) it was great but now since prices on everything has increased the price is over double what I paid then.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah I just saw at Home Depot it about $430 on the shelf. Crazy

[@emilecrotteau7312]

​@@FortKnoxCo🇨🇦 JUST SHORT OF $3,000.00 HERE COMPLIMENTS OF OUR GOVERNMENTS EXTRA ENVIRONMENT TAXES

[@FortKnoxCo]

@ 😔 aww man. No bueno

[@ABobsLife]

Great video. Quick question. Do you need to shake the tank's. And if so can you talk about that . Thanks in advance.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I don’t believe you need to shake them. It did not say on the instructions or on the tanks to shake first. I think because they are two separate compounds and will mix in the nozzle. The cans of foam you buy handheld you need to shake because they are mixing inside the can and not the nozzle

[@felicianoavelino7685]

Hi question it’s that spray foam works on attic’s roofing? Did you know

[@FortKnoxCo]

Some people do use it for roof insulation. Either on the ceiling in the attic or on the underside of the roof underlayment. Depends on your area and climate too if it will be good or not

[@jasoneganis]

I want to use it in a situation where we have already put the drywall up and I’ll have to drill 3-4 inch holes to spray the foam in every 1-1.5 foot. What temperature did you spray at in the video? It’s cold here in the South of France at the moment, it that a good thing or a bad thing a low temperature? Thank again for the video and advice!

[@FortKnoxCo]

@ low temp is not good to spray. On the box it does recommend the range of temperature. I believe 80-90 degree Fahrenheit is good. But I’m sorta guessing on the exact range. I do know cold is bad for the spray

[@JonathanAzzarello]

No fire blocking on those seams

[@FortKnoxCo]

Where the panels weren’t meeting up on a stud it wasn’t shear wall. So it wasn’t required to have them blocked.

[@tamistone2632]

One thing I noticed that probably contributed to the poor mix at times where you thought you were running out, it appeared that you did not uncoil the hoses. As you went along you can see in the video that the hose from one side or the other was choking off as the coil tightened up as you went almost full extension. This will disrupt your 50/50 mix, you definitely don’t want to crimp or restrict the flow in either hose. Unwind the hose prior to use then make sure the tanks are never facing 90 degrees away from you. You do not want any unnecessary bends impeding the flow of product, make sure the valve outlets are always pointing towards the direction of the area being sprayed. Great video though!!

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s some really good pointers right there. Never thought that much about that. Obviously you don’t want a link in the hose. But even some sharp bends or coils could restrict that flow. 🤙🏼

[@johnnycanadiana1897]

Used the bigger pack the other day to fill some voids left by framers. Worked well, but sets quickly so you have to move once you get going. They give you more tips incase they get clogged and you need to swap them

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah I was surprised how fast it sets up. Once you start you need a clear path and plan to love through your project

[@BADBONESDAD]

Who framed that you should have perimeter nailing on that osb for shear

[@FortKnoxCo]

Most of the structure is not shear but we did throw up OSB around 100% of the structure. The areas required by permit to have shear are nailed accordingly and don’t have any gaps.

[@jamesholder6371]

Why wouldn’t you break your vertical sheeting breaks on a stud?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I did in most areas. And where the plans called for shear walls I definitely did. But the rest of the structure ,which was the majority of it, I went above and beyond and applied OSB to the whole exterior and soffits. I was able to hit the joints on stubs almost everywhere. But a few spots it was slightly off and I just wanted to get the material up at that point and not keep wasting full sheets. So it didn’t affect the overall structure. Overall everything I added made it a ton stronger. So I just hit those seams with some foam as an added benefit. There’s exterior moisture barrier wrapped around and 3 layer stucco as well.

[@johnlucas4318]

Can you put a hose on the end and slide it down the studs in your attic to insulate between Sheetrock?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I’ve seen people do similar thing where they are filling cavities, the only thing that’s a concern is not knowing how much your filling and over filling. Once to fully expands it could damage stuff inside the wall,pipes and vents, or push things out like outlet boxes and pop your sheet rock off the studs. Usually they fill before sheet rock is applied and the shave off whatever is sticking out. So I’d be careful if your filling wall cavities blind

[@ItsallInGodshands]

Most companies in michigan want two thousand dollars just to do a thousand square foot basement sill. I may end up caulking then use cuts of fiberglass batts for insulation. The foam seals more than anything. From what I understand, a 1 inch thick of clised cell spray foam has just over a R value of 5.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I think your right on that r value. The air tight seal is mainly why I was going with it in this build n

[@EricLS]

I see some of the top comments saying you can't start and stop this kit, OMG you need to hire a pro, etc. I mean...you can't start and stop the *tip*, but the 2 parts don't do anything until they mix, so this would just be a situation where you plan your attack and have the tips ready to swap if you need to. Not sure why so many folks are freaked out by this, it looks pretty simple to me, provided you are fully in the right mindset about how it's going to go. I guess if you were going to spray an entire house all wall cavities to 5" deep, OK hire a pro. But for the small add-on, a shop-shed or something along those lines, this seems pretty legit.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your 100% on the money. It’s not that big of a deal. I was just trying to show what it’s like, what the process looks like, what to expect, hiccups, etc. I wouldn’t use this kit to spray a whole house for full insulation. Or to replace the fiber batten insulation. But for an added layer, air sealing capabilities, gap filling, for sure. It wasn’t that bad with starting and stopping. I mean you’re not gonna stop and take a phone call and then hop back on the same nozzle. But if you need to swap a nozzle real quick it’s easy to do and your back in business

[@Dang_Near_Fed_Up]

Excellent and informative video.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you 🙏🏼

[@lectro88]

Cans would never spray or cover like this did,. and you did it in about 1/10 of the time if you tried to do the same with cans. I wonder if it's true closed cell and could be used in boat floatation application.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah this method definitely is way faster than cans. The boat application would be interesting. They obviously don’t state that on the box as a recommended use. But would be interesting to see if it could be an option.

[@Eric_B]

Question: You were using the "Sealant", which Froth-Pak says is NOT intended to be used to take the place of insulation between studs like you're showing! I've recently been confused by this but can't get any info from the company (DuPont.) They have a product called "Insulation", which they say is intended for area coverage (see the "620" cylinders.) Is the only difference closed cell/open cell? Can you still use the "Sealant" for insulation, or will it be a waste because it's too dense? Need help on this!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yes. One is labeled as sealant and one is labeled for insulation or filling full cavities. One has more product than the other as it would be needed to cover the larger areas. The biggest difference I found was in the descriptions of how it’s labeled and said to expand is than on is calculated for coverage by a couple inches wide and 1-2 inches thick and the other is calculated more of a wall cavity width and a couple inches think. There’s not really any difference in the product itself. It’s how you want to use it and what type of tip you want to put onto the end of the gun to get the straight stream or wide fan. I used this pack basically as intended to seal all the corners and gaps. I played around with it in a wider format to see what it would do and how it acted in different scenarios. The only other difference when shopping in general for ANY foam product is if you want open cell or closed cell. Open can be more porous and closed can help with actually sealing air and moisture.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@Eric_B yes. It’s closed cell. The only reason I can see for them to put into different packs and colors is only really for different applications and making it a label. So someone wanting to seal stuff won’t have to buy and “insulation” kit and Vi’s verse. It seems to be all the same product really. One kits has less square footage than other. Again to create separate products and application cases. But my guess is mostly marketing niche applications.

[@Eric_B]

@@FortKnoxCo Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! I’m going to tackle a small project of a couple of bedrooms in a cabin where batting just won’t work. 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@Eric_B yeah you should be good. It’s funny to use and it acted as expected. It will definitely seal and make whatever your spraying air tight.

[@Jaker788]

Per the manufacturer, the only difference with the formula is the fire retardant mix. The sealant has less and that's why it's only rated for sealing gaps and cracks up to a certain size and percent of open coverage allowed. Spray foam behind a fire barrier like drywall doesn't actually need the extra fire retardants the insulation product has. It's only for open and uncovered insulation. Not to mention that unoccupied spaces that aren't used for storage or have mechanical/electrical equipment in them like a furnace don't have to follow fire code for foams and fire barriers.

[@fernandoslife1673]

Didn’t you supposed to shake the tanks truly for about three minutes or so?

[@FortKnoxCo]

No, there wasn’t anything in the instructions indicating to shake the large containers. Just how to set up and purge the lines before use. I don’t believe these need shaking as the two compounds are separate until they mix at the nozzle. In the hand held cans it’s all mixed in on can so you need to shake those.

[@01abihsot]

I love the idea of spray foam but it cost more that triple to fibre glass insulation to get the same r value

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah it does depend on what your trying to accomplish and where your spraying.

[@jeffbosch6319]

How do you think this would work on a metal shed? I'm getting a 10' x 14' DYI shed

[@FortKnoxCo]

It would work good. Both would get the froth pack 650. The froth pack 200 I got was mainly for sealing stuff. The 650 pack will cover more and give you more of the full wall spray insulation.

[@mattbrown837]

Wait until it's hot,you get better yield

[@gjkrisa]

even when it’s gotten a little hard acetone will work really well but scraping first good idea if you can then acetone the rest. if it gets stuck in fabric then acetone will take it out a leave no residue with a rag. or very little shouldn’t be sticky

[@FortKnoxCo]

Good information. I don’t think a lot of ppl realize this stuff can be defeated with acetone.

[@gjkrisa]

@@FortKnoxCo yea when i worked at a insulated pipe plant we have these end clamps that don’t always seal the greatest and it had squeezed out on me and got all over my face. not many people knew then either i had to melt it off when i got home my work cloths where messed up but worked good enough on facial hair. it was eight hours later in a 12 hr day. the fresher the easier but as you showed in the video if it’s still soft it will melt like butter but as it gets more set it becomes more of a soaking thing.

[@Shaggy-mb6sy]

Cost wise for large sq ft areas, it's cheaper to hire insulators. $350- $400 dollars per 200 sq ft. People should consider options. As far as floor protection, it's easy to clean. Unless you intend to stain the concrete, protection required!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Agreed. Definitely get a couple quotes and see what route you wanna take before buying a bunch of foam packs

[@gregorybible7610]

Did the 1/4 gaps between the particle boards cause you to fail the ventilation test?

[@FortKnoxCo]

No. The foam did really well with sealing anything large. The only places I had any air leaking was the attic access and a couple areas around where the base plate sits on the concrete. I needed to caulk along the whole edge.

[@davepetrakos475]

​@FortKnoxCo Rhere is a tape that adheres to the wood and concrete. It eliminates air,water and bugs from entering around sill plate. Also, one could mix Borax, sodium bicarbonate and sodium carbonate mixed with water; put it garden sprayer and saturate the interior cavities from sill plate and up two feet. Kills termites and ants (anything hungry for wood) that would enter from foundation. The mixture will also retard mold growth if a moisture incident occurs.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@davepetrakos475 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 thanks for sharing that

[@ajc0372]

Can this be used in a basement application? do you need to use some sort fire retardant over top of the foam? Great video.

[@FortKnoxCo]

You could definitely use it in a basement. I’d your code requires a fire retardant barrier you may need something. But usually you spray foam and have it covered by drywall or it’s in a closed spaces once you’re done. So you would use you fire rated drywall for those spaces.

[@ajc0372]

@@FortKnoxCo Thanks, I really appreciate it :)

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@ajc0372 no problem at all

[@HellTriX]

didn't look like you got much coverage ?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I got a good amount of coverage with the straight nozzle, but this was just the 200 pack. Got all around the structure where I wanted and had a little left over

[@timcarter9146]

Thought it was bad to cover electric outlets?

[@FortKnoxCo]

It could be a problem when doing and renovations. But the outlet boxes are a big problem with air flow. So if you’re sealing anything up especially on exterior it’s not a bad idea. Also depends on where you’re building climate wise.

[@AimingWanderously]

These kits are great /in the right application/, and I can't stress that enough. They give you several spray tips in each kit, and man will you go through them! They clog up in about 10 seconds or less when you stop spraying. If you're moving up and down a ladder, moving the ladder, climbing back up-- clogged! Prepare wisely to minimize your movements and maximize your spraying time and you'll be ok. Expect a learning curve. I've used a few of the 650' $1K kits. What I've learned is with the expense of the kits, the hassle of doing the job, and the fact that you really should do it on a HOT day for maximum expansion, you might be better off hiring a local foam spray company. It ended up being the same $ for me to buy and use the kits as it would be hiring someone, and I wouldn't have had to do the work and sweat my rear end off in a wet suit. For applications where the company might charge you more for slow cramped going, such as a crawlspace, these kits might save you.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Really really good information. This is exactly the kinda stuff I wanted to portray in the video. Show a little good and bad and just things to consider when planning a job

[@AimingWanderously]

@@FortKnoxCo Your video is nicely done, thank you!

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@AimingWanderously thank you I appreciate that

[@Terry-cg7kt]

Was this cheaper than just using canned foam?

[@FortKnoxCo]

For the amount of spray I got yes. I was doing the math on advertised square ft per dollar and this will give you more than most cans would. And the type of foam is different. They way it mixes at the top from the two separate tanks is different than what come out of an all in one can. It seems to stick and expand way better.

[@Mrkouman]

This was like a first day in the job listen to this video training and get told what's going on 5 times in repeat before doing anything. I had to fast fwd several times. Just tell me what your doing then get to the point.

[@FortKnoxCo]

🤙🏼 💯

[@billymarlowe9054]

Thanks! I learned from this what I needed.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Awesome!! 🤙🏼

[@donny6016]

Great video, I used cans that were 10 years pass expiration and they sprayed fine. I also wish i switched out my tips more because i also had single component spray and it was always random and should have just changed the tip. Brake cleaner is great to clean the foam when wet, spray BC down the tips of needed or let them soak in BC. Also, to remind the group this is the 200 sealant and not the 210 insulation...... The differences idk.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Awesome info!! Yes the 200, 210 & 650, green box , red box …. All apparently different. The boxes say for sealing or for insulating. They seem to all preform the same as far as how the foam comes out and sprays. I just think they give you more coverage per their defined “board feet”. I do like the cans for a lot of jobs. I always know what to expect with those. I may try one of the 12/24 can kits that come with the spray gun nozzle. Those look fun and maybe get some better control and can pace myself. I felt like once I charged those lines with the two tanks I had to go go go.

[@danielfantino1714]

In a comment i read the warmer the more expansion. May be put the tanks in warm water would help....or make the mix to liquid and dripping ?

[@FortKnoxCo]

Hmm. That could be an idea. Not sure if anyone’s tried that. Not sure if it’s that much more expansion or what to expect. I know the atmosphere temp is definitely a factor once it hits the air and the material. If that’s warm it helps.

[@danielfantino1714]

​@@FortKnoxCo thanks. Physic law say compression equal heat, and opposite is cold. May be it would help to empty more the tanks. As less and less chemical is left in they should lower in temperature, hence less pressure to kick stuff out. Every smoker knows that lighter are harder to.lit in winter when cold. Keep it in your hands will warm up, and gaz expansion will occur to lit the lighter. That stuff ain´t cheap. "Each drop count" 😊😊😊

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@danielfantino1714 💯

[@gjkrisa]

when using this you should have acetone on hand if it’s still hasn’t set up acetone will melt it away and wipes up not bad . but probably have some rags also.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Good idea!! Great information 🤙🏼

[@johnb4183]

Is there a price difference between closed cell and "non-closed" cell foam ? Woul closed cell would be the one to use insulation wise ? not water absorbing? Thanks

[@FortKnoxCo]

Sometimes I see a price difference, but usually it’s not too drastic. Most the time I see people trying to stay with closed sale because it has more benefits overall. It is going to be the one you want if you’re worried about moisture or water. I believe close cell is a lot more rigid and provides more structural integrity as well.

[@byronmitchell13]

If you are doing new construction get it done for you. Cheaper and worth the cost. If you are remodeling an old house like I did to mine the kits are great. I used tiger foam. Get a fire rated one. Buy plenty of extra nozzles and extra gloves. Make sure the tanks are warm and the walls are also. At least 75 degrees, 80 is better. Yes it will be like a sauna. Get a friend to help you. My cousin moved the tanks and readied new tips. I changed my tips every two sections of wall. I got about 600 square feet at one inch thick. Well worth it.

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s awesome information 🤙🏼

[@BadGolfer-c9c]

Thanks for foam video, but you should get everything sealed up first. Watch videos on how to build an inexpensive "passive house".

[@FortKnoxCo]

Good information

[@rossweaver2128]

How many sq foot do you believe it would do? I have a former back porch that we built the house on to and want to use it on the bottom of deck to seal up from house.

[@FortKnoxCo]

It did about 250+ of linear feet I’d say. I mainly used the straight stream nozzle and I was able to go around this whole perimeter of a 1,900sqft building.

[@Beyond_Feral]

How do you do electrical repairs in the future?

[@FortKnoxCo]

Access your electrical which ever way you choose and then when you come across the foam you can break away with hand or tools. It’s not rock hard, can be cut with a blade easily. Break it away from what you want to work on. And then if you choose to you could reform around where you broke apart with the small rattle can spray foams

[@cambio24-c7o]

It's good for ever, if you have electrical problem buy other house. Problem solved!

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@cambio24-c7o 💯

[@TC-db6yp]

I was going to get the barrels and got talked out of it and ended up spending more on the small tanks.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah. Depending on what you want to achieve these smaller kits could be an option. But they are premium priced for sure.

[@timarcher1524]

If you spray till its empty I'll almost guarantee you'll spray some off ratio foam. I worked for 16 yrs in the spray foam roofing industry and in my opinion these are good for emergencies only. Not very rigid compared to closed cel and take seemingly forever to react and cure out fully.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah I think the kits would be good for small projects or something maybe a big company wouldn’t do a bid on.

[@JohnSmith-ck3cq]

Does anyone know if there is anything to the notion that if your house is too sealed, it could create mildew issues? I have heard this but don't know if it is true.

[@FortKnoxCo]

it kinda depends on where you are building to start. with places that have a lot of wet weather it may be something to consider. Usually you want a really good thermal envelope on your structure for heating and cooling efficiency. In high humidity areas you may have common building practices that help with that. certain ways to ventilate the roofs and walls. but normally in your living spaces you want a good sealed area with good controlled ventilation. you don't want outside air and weather making its way inside unless your controlling it. Here in Vegas we have our walls and interiors sealed up well but the roofs have plenty of ventilation and the exteriors have layers to shed water and allow it to dry if needed without making its way to the interior wood framing.

[@JohnSmith-ck3cq]

@@FortKnoxCo Thanks. That makes sense. I live in the Midwest. We have extremes in hot and cold as well as periods of high humidity so insulation is important but there is often the possibility of mildew issues.

[@ZachtheEvil]

Being too well sealed was a problem at one point (70s or so) but nowadays we have solutions like whole house dehumidifiers and ERVs that can allow houses to be built quite well sealed without issue. Matt Risinger has some videos on this. Unfortunately it's more of a custom home type deal due to cost. A lot more thought has to go into it and retrofitting is unlikely to be cost effective.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@ZachtheEvil 💯

[@josephbuescher6293]

Osb should be vertical with joints on studs

[@FortKnoxCo]

Good information 👍🏼

[@jeetybrar1]

Where can buy this ?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I have links on the video and in the description

[@tomhaire4758]

Thank you, this is a good teaching tool.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome

[@throngcleaver]

Very informative video! Thank you!

[@FortKnoxCo]

You’re very welcome !

[@BIG-DIPPER-56]

EXCELLENT 👍 Very Well Done - Thanks !

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome

[@timfritch6735]

Where Did you purchase the product?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I have links for in the video description. I bought mine at Home Depot because it was the same price as Amazon and I wanted to use it that same day. They are usually pretty close in price

[@GG-sj2wg]

So here’s my opinion having done it both ways. It’s difficult to get a pro to come do a small job. Or you can lose a fortune waiting for a pro to fit you into their schedule. In these cases a Froth Pak is fine. If you have normal construction skills you will figure out the technique of laying it down pretty quick. There is nothing wrong with the product if the temperature is right when applied. So small jobs, go for it. Bigger jobs hire it out.

[@FortKnoxCo]

I 100% agree. Very fair opinion. This stuff has its places where it could be a great choice. And there’s situations where I’d go other routes. Simple as that.

[@timsimpson4579]

Just don’t understand how you will switch to glass or something like that after messing up the cavity? All foam I get, part foam seems odd?

[@FortKnoxCo]

In my situation I just wanted to seal up some of the areas in the lower portion of the wall cavities closes to the ground. Figured it wouldn’t hurt. I honestly I just wanted to try out one of these foam packs and see how it worked. So I used that as an excuse to try it out, spend the money and document my experience. Nothing more complicated or deeper than that. Just wanted to try it out and show the good and bad so someone could see for themselves how it worked for me.

[@inthewebnotoftheweb]

I would really like to have seen a better representation of the coverage..

[@FortKnoxCo]

I apologize. I guess I could have filmed an overview of everything that was covered when I was done and maybe calculated the exact Square ft covered

[@inthewebnotoftheweb]

@@FortKnoxCo No need to apologize, I appreciate you showing how you used it and what you thought about the product...

[@radeksparowski7174]

in europe in general spray foam is used in tiny houses and diy dwellings but not in serious houses as you can not inspect the roof and walls for woodrot, leakage or quality of work meaning the roof is uninsurable and resale value plummets as well as the buyer is buying a cat in a sac ie some roof in some condition

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah it may not be ideal in this either applications. It’s still not used across the board but does have its benefits. Come with some cons though. Renovations, visual inspections and repairs could be difficult. Not impossible but adds more labor to work through the material and get at a problem area

[@EdtheSailor]

Thank you for this.

[@FortKnoxCo]

No problem at all 🤙🏼

[@arthurn9237]

OH AND I WANTED TO SEE HOW THOS STUFF WORKS WITH THE FXN SPRAY TIP TO COVER THE AREA BETWIXT THA 2X4s

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yeah, I didn’t do much of that. I want to try another pack on a small project and I’ll use the fan spray

[@raphaelsanchez4797]

Very helpful video. Thank you for doing this.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your welcome. It was fun to use and finally see first hand how it all works.

[@ItsMeRockyT]

I was here for the fan spray pattern. Yous aid you would do it at the end. You never did it....

[@FortKnoxCo]

Sorry, I did a little bit it wasn’t much. It wasn’t a whole lot different from the straight for me. Maybe because my tip kept clogging up. Once I opening it up k wanted to keep moving and any down time would clog it up again.

[@seephor]

Was it worth the $400 though? Seems like you could have got a similar result using the cans that work in the gun for much cheaper?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I was thinking about using the cans system, but after doing a lot of video and review research it looked like the way the foam set up wasn’t as thick on a single pass and the cost wasn’t extremely different to offset the chance. So I was about to purchase a set of the cans that had the same or close too board feet of spray but ended up going with Froth-Pack since it was a better product in my opinion. I didn’t want to spend $250-300 on a sub par foam and not just pay the $380-399 on a quality one. I may try one of the can system on a small wall that I plan on insulating in the attic though. If I do I’ll definitely make a video on it to show just how good or bad it is

[@seephor]

@@FortKnoxCo That makes sense if you used the Froth-Pak as insulation but to my eye, it looks like much of it was just wasted where as with the can system, you could have been much more precise on where the foam went and would probably need much much less to achieve the same air stop. Just my thoughts, maybe I'm not seeing it the same way. Great video though on the process. It's invaluable for anyone wanting to try this out themselves. This solution would be perfect on a basement wall where you get moisture coming through before you framed over it. The closed cell actually blocks moisture where as the open cell stuff sort of sucks it up like a sponge.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@seephor I get what you’re saying. Yeah for just sealing corners you could probably get that sealing effect with either system so why not save a little money. The spray cans looked like you could have more time and control possible. I still want to try them out and see for myself. I mainly wanted to use one of these products I’ve seen but actually show maybe the not so good side of doing it yourself. Just how easy or hard they really are , or maybe they are just as user friendly as the other videos show them Out to be. I feel like you can learn more about something when it doesn’t go as planned sometimes.

[@_TraMor]

The boardfeet claim they make on the insulation foam is purely aspirational. I had to use 3 whole packs at $1k a piece for what should have been a 1 pack and done job. My take on it is that you'll actually save money paying someone to do the work when yields are no where near correct.

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@_TraMor I agree. I don’t think I got as much out of it as I expected. Especially since I was just shooting it in the corners and not actually sprain the hole inside of the wall cavities. I don’t think I would’ve gotten 200 square feet of wall coverage like that. I know if you read the fine details it will sometimes say board is calculated not necessarily by 1” x 12” but more like 2”x 4” wide. So if you’re not looking closely, it may be a little bit deceiving. Overall, I feel like it’s still accomplished what I wanted, but I obviously paid a little bit of a premium to play around with some foam.

[@johnlozano5054]

Excellent video, thanks

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you!

[@carlmcgarry1823]

Thanks for the tips. .

[@FortKnoxCo]

No problem

[@johnnycanadiana1897]

Pro tip. If you want a higher step code for house sealant dont use spray foam around windows. It shrinks and you get air leaks. Use backer rod and caulk

[@FortKnoxCo]

Nice! Good advice

[@PorkGrinder71]

Great video! Thanks!!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome 🤙🏼

[@melinda5777]

THANK YOU!!❤❤❤

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your welcome