Ep. 19 - How to determine how much Home Theater gear can be put on a circuit | Home Theater Gurus

Calculate how much gear can be put on a circuit. Home Theater setup . Home Theater Gurus
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[@poserwanabe]

As a professional installer I just want to add that 99.99% of the systems out there are perfectly fine on a single 15a feed. The more relavent issue is proper system grounding...but that's another story... Good video with correct info 👍

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks!

[@fueledtoperform]

As I'm getting ready to wire and finish my basement theater, this helps immensely. Thanks for another informative video!

[@danielseguin913]

Thanks for all the good advices again. The projector thing is a wake up call for me. Didn't think about this one. Also this thing about the rated power on the back on the receiver vs the output per channel. This is good info man. Thanks for sharing! This channel is simply amazing.

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks! Glad you've found the channel helpful.

[@FOH3663]

Up-size Your Wiring It's important to note that if one is wiring their Home Theater, it's prudent to up-size the wiring to the receptacles supplying the gear. That way voltage drop can effects can be minimized. As stated elsewhere, to avoid nuisance tripping, breakers can pass mammoth amounts of current for prior to opening up. A 20a residential breaker can typically pass; ~140-160 amps for a second ~60amps for ten seconds ~30-40amps for as long as 30 seconds! They're designed this way to prevent nuisance tripping... whereby you'd be in your panelboard resetting breakers constantly. Circuits supplying subs in high performance HT, up-size the branch circuit wire size between the breaker and the receptacle.

[@williambrown1172]

Cool series. As a person who has built some dedicated home theaters, all this info in one place is sure gonna help some folks out! Looking forward to your new theater build vlogs.🤞

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks William!

[@SSJBen]

One thing about subs, especially those popular SVS ones where they state they have like 4000w peak or some silly shit like that. While SVS isn't actually lying, the reality of it is that they barely run at 50w most of the time.

[@SSJBen]

@@myhomeaudio8751 Your guess is wrong. 50w is indeed what they consume most of the time.

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

very helpful video keep up the great videos..

[@Agent-fg9ol]

Hello from barbados 🇧🇧... Your content is very informative and comes in an easy to understand format.... Keep up the good work 👍

[@hometheatergurus]

Thanks!

[@zalllon]

Really surprised there are not a lot more comments on this episode. This is definitely one thing I think people overlook, or at least don’t consider at this level. Since I’m running a Denon 4400 running 4 surround and 4 Atmos, an Emotiva BasX 3 running my L/C/R and 2 SVS subs all on the same 15A circuit, I’m surprised it hasn’t tripped. Thankfully my basement where this room resides isn’t finished, so I think I’ll do one 20A for the subs, tap the Projector in the lights, and 2x 15A to run the equipment (Denon, Apple TV and rack cooling fan on one, and Emotiva and Bluray Player, PS4, Xbox S on the other). Not that I’m worried about a fire as much as tripping the breaker when everything is running. Great vid! Thank you

[@FOH3663]

The breaker will allow much more current than 15 or 20 amps ... easily double that for extended periods.

[@zalllon]

@@FOH3663 our breakers only permit a spike up to 20 amps for a few seconds and then trip. We wouldn’t want it to do 20A+ continuously as the wire is only 14 awg, standard for a 15A outlets.

[@FOH3663]

@@zalllon Your breaker behave just as I described.

[@coreymarotta]

This was huge (including all your posts, I’ve learned a TON and started out somewhat savvy) as I’m currently building out all of my wiring diagrams for a new home build. Thank’yew!

[@hometheatergurus]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jcklimo]

A couple of points. Those amperage ratings are for continuous full draw. When you are just listening at moderate levels with no explosions, your amp is barely pulling anything near those ratings. Also, in regard to to the 15 and 20 panel amp. Those ratings are for a continuous pull. They will happily handle bursts of ~10 times their ability for a handful of seconds, say a large explosion in a movie, where you get full draw for a short period. Now, if you play a continuous sine wave at reference, then you'll have problems. Dubb step, etc... But for movies, you can pack a lot of power on a single 15amp circuit.

[@hometheatergurus]

Not sure if you watched all of the video but I mention pretty much all of that in the video, the breaker doesn't trip immediately and briefly explain how it works, I explain we normally use a fraction of the speced load.

[@jcklimo]

@@hometheatergurus I honestly watched the entire thing. Must have glossed over it. Turns out, i'm dumb sometimes. Great Videos!

[@hometheatergurus]

Haha... No worries I'm the worst at missing stuff and sure sometimes I forget to put something in a video or wish I had added things. A lot of the stuff is kept short and sweet on purpose.

[@victorpulos823]

I only have avr projector and 4k Blu-ray surge protector plus power subwoofer

[@POTE0831]

I dont get this I have 2 emotiva amps marantz av7703 and a oppo on my panamax m5300-pm and never get more then 2 amps on the display. If I add all be around 2500 watts. But when i look at my kwh from light company when I watch movies whole house around 800 watts.

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

i have a old QSC amp that i want to use for subs.....its a QSC MX 3000 IT SAYS NORMAL OPERATION IS 12 AMPS AND FULL POWER IS 58 AMPS...WOULD I BE GOOD WITH A 20 AMP BREAKER..?..

[@keithraufer6894]

Ok so I’m building subs at the moment but I’m currently running a LG 65C8, Oppo 203, Emotiva XPA-DR2, XPA5 and a XMC1 all off the standard house circuit (AUS 240v) but I’ve got 3 Crown XLS2002 for 6 sealed SI SQL15’s when they get released. Should I run one or two new lines just for the HT??

[@MidnightMagic]

2. Won't cost much extra and you will use it

[@Professor5180]

So instead of plugging everything into a surge protector/power conditioner, I should spread it out to different wall outlets throughout the room? I want to do 2 front subs and 1 rear (dual SB-3000-front, one sb-1000 pro-rear). But I also plan on having an 85inch mini led with an 11-channel power amplifier. So I'm thinking Plug in the TV, DVD player, Pre-Amp, and Amp into a surge protector/conditioner that plugs into one outlet, but at least plug in and run the subwoofers to a different wall outlet to break up the power draw? Hope that makes sense.

[@hometheatergurus]

Not different wall outlets but ideally on different circuits. That's assuming you've added up what is on each circuit and its maxed out. It's not always possible in preexisting rooms as many times all of the outlets in a room are on the same circuit.

[@Professor5180]

@@hometheatergurus Cool, Thanks for that response. May look into adding a dedicated circuit then. Checked my breaker box and there is one switch for the entire game room :(

[@ehashey]

So, in your opinion, I should use a dedicated 20 Amp circuit for each JTR Captivator 2400 ULF? I am in the process of wiring now. Great videos! Really appreciate the tips!

[@FOH3663]

Two of those amplifiers can share circuit, as long as you don't encounter significant voltage drop

[@idyfohu]

Eric, did you end up running a dedicated amp if you don't mind me asking? I've got a JTR Cap 1400 but doing some big upgrades, 9 Channel Amp, 5 JTR Speakers, etc and am worried about putting everything on one circuit.

[@pb24dagrk]

Is it safe to say that if you don't notice dimming lights or anything, then you are good? My Marantz SR7011 (710w), Sony A9G (653w), and PS4 Pro (310w) puts me at 13.9 amps. Not including the subwoofer (different outlet yet likely same circuit) HSU VTF15-MK2 and everything else on standby... I'm not sure if I have 15amp or 20amp circuit. My house was built in 1986.

[@hometheatergurus]

Yep definitely safe to say. It's those darn subs that can really cause issues! If you don't see any dimming don't worry about it.