Honda CBR900RR Fireblade Service Guide [Spark Plugs, Oil Change, Filters, Coolant Torque Specs] | 13

[@jamesrichardson1901]

Great tip on the washer. I'll remember that because I always forget to get a new one. When replacing coolant, I always squeeze the hoses while it's running and the cap's off to burp the baby and make sure no air is trapped. Everyone does it differently. Keep the knowledge coming.

[@SPANNERRASH]

Don't forget it is only with Copper washers, not sure I mentioned that :) Good idea to massage the hoses. Letting the engine run and reving the engine is from the Honda manual, so I mainly stuck to that.

[@jonaspovlsen4354]

Gentle reminder that to increase ductility one mustn't quench the copper after heating. The rapid cooling forms smaller grains in the material thus making it less ductile. Allow it to cool in room temperature and the grains will be bigger as it cools. The smaller grains = greater amount of grains = more walls connecting them = less ductility. Bigger grains = smaller amount of grains = less walls connecting them = more ductility.

[@_Triple-B]

Really enjoy your vids. just solid information on a pace i can follow.

[@SPANNERRASH]

Thanks for your encouragement. It's great to hear that what we are doing is being useful.

[@09woody]

Another great video Les. The old blade sounds sweet. Keep them coming. Cheers 👍

[@SPANNERRASH]

Thanks Alan. Still plenty to do, but I want to get out riding!!!

[@TheBucksBiker-lh2nm]

Thanks for posting… I’m messing around with a non-running 1997 and am using your videos as the Blade-Bible to help me not completely screw up 🤓

[@SPANNERRASH]

Thanks for letting me know. I hope I don't lead you astray :) Good luck.

[@jorgegylbertkytara1]

Congratulations 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

[@SPANNERRASH]

cheers

[@robin6364]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You're a good man i can tell.

[@SPANNERRASH]

I appreciate that!

[@Pokemongold88]

Enjoying your videos always good content thx for making them 👍

[@SPANNERRASH]

Cheers Tim, glad you're enjoying them! :)

[@isdochnervig]

Danke für die Hilfe! 😊

[@SPANNERRASH]

Bitte schön. 😉

[@darrenbrowne6701]

great content and info for me to work on my Fireblade keep it coming

[@SPANNERRASH]

I am really glad you are finding it useful. I hope some of my future content is good for you.

[@mulliedog1]

Another excellent video!

[@SPANNERRASH]

Thanks mate, hope you enjoyed watching :)

[@georgeneofotistos2945]

Hello! Really enjoyed the CBR videos, you did a fantastic job! I'm about to get a 1998 Blade and I'm going to give it a service myself. I was wondering if you have to check spark plugs for the appropriate gap or they come sorted and you only have to install them. Thanks!

[@SPANNERRASH]

TBH they should always come ready gapped, and usually they have a little tube around them to stop them banging against the end, so checking them really shouldn't be necessary! Additionally, Iridium plugs shouldn't be touched at all, there is a danger of damaging the coating on the electrodes. Hope that helps

[@HazzardN]

Have you done fuel tank removal vid? Can't see one. I can't get my fuel hoses off after pulling back the securing rings. This means I can't check air filter and box plus a lot else. Advice would be great. Many thanks. Nick

[@SPANNERRASH]

Hi, if you look at the playlist I think it should be in 7 or 8. The trick with the fuel hoses is to twist them first, once you have them moving on the outlet pipe they come off easier. Sometimes using a pair of grips to just get them started moving is needed, but don't grip too hard. A spray of silicon can help as well. I hope this helps. By the way there is one big fuel pipe to the carbs, one smaller vacuum pipe to the bottom of the carbs, and a large and a smaller vent pipe. The two to the tap are the ones from the carbs, the two out of the bottom of the tank are the vents, I think that should help. Good luck.

[@TeamPyroball]

Thanks for the video, helped me a lot. I have 2 questions, where can I get the steel bracket on the rear and are these the original mirrors?

[@SPANNERRASH]

I am really glad it helped. Not sure which bracket you mean, but I scour eBay or buy parts from CMSNl or David Silver and ususally can find what I need.

[@pm3577]

Great video mate, I love the lack of chatter. My kinda tutorial. 👊 Thank you. *Subscribed.

[@SPANNERRASH]

Awesome, thank you!

[@1234567marks]

Another great video, I changed my plugs the other day, not too bad once the coils are off, I found 3 plugs finger tight, lucky they hadn’t unwound! Ref the low reading temp gauge, it’s almost certainly the temperature sender, I’ve got the carbs off mine at present, fitting a stage 1 Dynojet kit and finding out why No4 is rich, anyway with the carbs out of the way I fitted a new thermostat (the old one works I tested it but whilst in that area I replaced it), the temperature sender however doesn’t want to budge, made of brass so there’s a risk of shearing, so I’ve had it soaking in penetrating oil for a couple of days, not convinced it’ll get to the threads but worth a try!, anyway low temperature was nothing to do with a faulty thermostat so it’ll be your temp sensor (located next to the thermostat) I’m pretty certain.

[@SPANNERRASH]

Thanks Mark. Maybe there is a way of testing the sender in situ. I haven't been overly worried about it, that fact that it does send a signal is usually a very good sign. It could be that the gauge doesn't respond to the signal properly. The main concern is if it isn't putting the cooling fan on at the right time. With the cold climate I live in that hasn't really been something I was massively concerned about, but now summer is coming I may give it more attention. Keep me in the loop of how you go on.

[@1234567marks]

@@SPANNERRASH Firstly I’ve actually forgotten your name! 😂, is it Chris?, sorry!, anyway, I checked the gauge by grounding the sender wire and the gauge does a full sweep, so it’s either the sender or the wiring between the sender and the gauge. The temperature sender doesn’t control the fan, the fan is switched on by the fan switch which is mounted in the radiator, I’m replacing mine as a precaution because if that doesn’t work then the engine could overheat with annoying consequences!, £35 for a decent quality fan switch, daylight robbery!! 😂, so I agree the temperature gauge isn’t crucial but it’s there to give an early warning of an overheat situation developing, so I’d prefer to get mine working, the way I’ve decided to go is …..replace thermostat, replace fan switch so I know the engine is protected, then once it’s up and running again tackle the sender, it’s possible but difficult to remove with the carbs in place with a ring spanner, if it shears then never mind, it won’t leak because just the top will shear off leaving the rest plugging the hole, then at some point in the distant future when the carbs are off again maybe try removing the remnants of the sender and fitting my new one, hope that makes sense! 😄

[@1234567marks]

PS the reason I’m not removing the sender now is a miracle may have happened and cleaning the electrical connector to the sender may have fixed it, that’s extremely unlikely but worth a go I suppose.

[@SPANNERRASH]

It's Les by way. What you have said will help when I come to look at it. But I am not letting it stress me now. I have seen the gauge read higher than what you can see in the video, so I don't think it can be massively out. Didn't realise it didn't control the fan as well,

[@1234567marks]

@@SPANNERRASH Hi Les, replaced the thermostat, left the old temp sender in place, now running again and temp gauge the same, so it’s the sender, it was definitely going to snap so I’m leaving it be, I might at some point put a T piece in one of the hoses and mount the new sender there, I replaced the floats with tourmax items, peed fuel out of the carb vent, checked the sealing with air, all leaking:(, replaced the original float valves and checked with air, not leaking, tank back on and running and no more leaks , beware Tourmax float valves, and always check sealing with air before putting carbs back on bike!!!, wish I had :)

[@zackfreeman3985]

Do you have to empty out the overflow container when flushing coolant?

[@SPANNERRASH]

Yes you should. But if like with the blade it is hard to get to, syphon it out and put a bit of fresh through it. It doesn't really get flushed when you do the rest of the system.

[@based_radio]

Les, thanks for these great videos. My cbr900rr fires right up and idles/revs strong. But once it reaches operating temp, it stalls and shuts off. Any ideas? Cheers

[@SPANNERRASH]

Obviously if you have done any work on the bike recently start by checking that, if the bike has not been run for some time it could be residue from evaporated or old fuel in the carbs which will need cleaning out, if the bike has been running fine and it just started playing up then then did you get some bad fuel, or wash it and get water somewhere that causes a problem. If it will restart after a while, or if you give it a quick check over, fuel in tank etc then it is possible that the fuel vent for the tank is blocked. Another issue could be the breathers from the carbs, if one is blocked or kinked it could be causing a vacuum in the carb(s) that reduces the fuel to the engine after running for a short while. If it wont start at all until it has cooled down then it is likely to be a sensor or problem with the ECU. I hope these ideas help. Let me know when you do find the issue, everyday is a school day. Good luck.

[@based_radio]

@@SPANNERRASH thanks fornthe reply, I'll run it down and let you know.

[@bikegeist]

Sounds so good.

[@SPANNERRASH]

Agreed :D

[@stefan-stocksmadesimple5241]

Would you recommend following the manual when it comes to Fluids (e.g brands), torque settings when tying things back etc?

[@SPANNERRASH]

I would generally keep to the official manual about most things. But I wouldn't be too precious about Brands. Manufacturers did deals to recommend certain things, there are sometimes better alternatives.

[@stefan-stocksmadesimple5241]

@@SPANNERRASH thank you! And what about the oil drain plug dimensions...? I found 12mm online, but what would you say it is?

[@SPANNERRASH]

@@stefan-stocksmadesimple5241 I think they are m12 1.5mm pitch. But don't quote me on it :)

[@stefan-stocksmadesimple5241]

Thanks, noted ​@@SPANNERRASH

[@randomniss8676]

2:05 oil Change :)

[@SPANNERRASH]

4.39 oil changed :)

[@josem.garcia287]

Catch the Haynes. That's all folks.

[@SPANNERRASH]

I've lost count of the Haynes manuals I've bought over the last 50 years!

[@anonimous2451]

OMG, a K&N oil filter? I suppose you do not know about the recent oil filter failures at the nut portion of those filters. They split open spilling oil all over your rear tire and very lucky if ya do not spill. Happened to me but I was lucky enough to save it. Had to throw away the skivvies tho. I stopped using K&N 6 months ago due to them out sourcing the manufacture of the filters and the economization of metal instead of QUALITY. No mo K&N for me mate.

[@SPANNERRASH]

I understand your concern. I believe that the issue with this type of filter have been caused when the nut is used to put the canister on. If you do it can cause it to fail, the nut is only intended for removal. You will see in the video that I only tightened by hand as per the recommendation. Was it some other failure in your case, or was it the tightening issue? I have used K&N filters quite often and never had a problem, but I will keep my eye on it.

[@anonimous2451]

@@SPANNERRASH Fair enough. I never ever wrench tighten my filter's cause it is not necessary, but, I do race them so I tie it off with a tie wire thru the nut hole. It only takes 1 time headed into a turn or coming out of a turn (my case) and it burst's you nearly sheet your pants if you do not slide out (seen it twice) so I stopped using it. Then I found out they outsourced the product manufacturing to you know who and BANG, it blows out. Never again for me thanks.

[@SPANNERRASH]

@@anonimous2451 Thanks for the heads up on that, maybe I will use different filters going forward in that case. Which filters would you recommend?

[@anonimous2451]

@SomeRandomName And THAT clown already spoke. Maybe some day when you actually have a LIFE and perhaps some SKILL SET other than tongue wagging you may actually find out. My hope is you are doing oh say about 150 coming out of turn 6 road course accelerating HARD to get up to straightaway speed AND YOUR oil filter busts. I would bet your life against mine you would not survive THAT sheet like I did. But hey, the ol saying still rings true "Wise men speak to impart knowledge or wisdom, while the fool speaks cause he has something to say." Mic Drop !

[@anonimous2451]

@@SPANNERRASH Mobil 1, is my go to. And it tested at Project Farm as #1. The 2nd Place was a Super Tech Filter and I HAD (forced to as they did not have my oil filter in stock and I needed it that day) to use one. About 5k miles into the oil, the pressure dropped slightly by about 8 psi and never fully came back up until rpm's hit 2k. Soon as I changed the filter back to Mobil1 it was perfect again. Wix/NAPA seem to be good ones too, but, I go with Mobil1.