Honda Civic One-Person Clutch Fluid Flush

[@Mikeattempts]

One-Person Bleeder Bottle: amzn.to/3JPK54z (affiliate*) Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid: amzn.to/3JxmkwQ (affiliate*) *Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!

[@terrencmiller8776]

thank god... straight to the point nice and clear instructions. great freakin video

[@Mikeattempts]

Thanks, I appreciate it! :)

[@onseki1774]

Great video! Just bought that exact bleeder bottle.

[@Mikeattempts]

Thanks, let me know how it goes! :)

[@broganhogan3469]

Great video going to try this on my Honda fit

[@Mikeattempts]

Thanks, let me know how it goes!

[@SWMacon]

Thank you! I’m gonna try this myself.

[@Mikeattempts]

Thank you for watching! :)

[@SWMacon]

Still without my car 😞 I’ll have to try again another day when weather cooperates.

[@Mikeattempts]

@@SWMacon Just be sure you have a bleeder bottle with a one-way valve, that's key to doing this job by yourself. Otherwise, you need 2 people.

[@sergioovalle9419]

Thank you Mr; right on! continiue the good job; thanks

[@Mikeattempts]

Thanks for watching! :)

[@freshsaltyfries5078]

Wonderful thank you

[@Mikeattempts]

Thank you for watching! :)

[@loving_lioness3518]

Appreciate you! 🙏

[@Mikeattempts]

Thanks, I appreciate you watching! :)

[@a_kr34tor66]

Cool video, i have same model 2015 si. I'm having a hard time shifting into the gears, it locks me out at times. But once it's shifting smoothly it drives like a beast. Wondering if this might help me out

[@Mikeattempts]

I'm no pro but a clutch flush and changing your MTF (I did another video on this) would probably help.

[@Slatinum_bookies]

9th gen Si recommends transmission fluid every 30k; i get this done at the dealer regularly to have no reason for them to give an excuse. I wont touch oil changes or transmission flushes but id do mostly anything else due to them being cheaper to get professionally redone

[@senanfoutchedjev2401]

Hi, great video. But my Civic is with Robotized clutch, what do you do in this case to press the automatic clutch? Thanks.

[@Mikeattempts]

Are you messing with me? :) If not, it sounds like you have an automatic transmission so there's no clutch bleeding involved for you. Replacing the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is very similar to an engine oil change. You'd just need to find the ATF drain plug, drain out the old fluid, and then refill the ATF reservoir located in the engine bay.

[@senanfoutchedjev2401]

Hi Mike, My Civic has a manual transmission but it has no clutch pedal. The clutch is automatic, but the Tranny is not, mechanically is a manual. That is why I am asking. Also on the cap of the small reservoir, it says to put Only original Honda Break Fluid. I can only find DOT 4 Original Break Fluid, but I think it should be OK. Let me know. @@Mikeattempts

[@Mikeattempts]

@@senanfoutchedjev2401 I have no experience with that type. You should be able to buy a Hanes or Chilton manual for your vehicle that will cover the procedure. I would use whatever brake fluid is recommended on the cap. I usually buy mine from the local Honda dealership, but you can also order it online. DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid are compatible.

[@dahoodgoneloveit4230]

Great video keep Em coming!

[@Mikeattempts]

I appreciate it, thanks for watching!

[@carlfichtner8148]

Nice video ! Clutch pedal badly worn...

[@Mikeattempts]

Thanks! There's plenty of life left on my clutch pedal pad, the metal isn't even showing yet! ;)

[@idontwanttogoback236]

I'm having a problem. I followed all your steps, but my clutch still won't go up. I can see that there were no more bubbles coming through the hose into the bottle. I tightened the valve and the cap then stepped on the clutch, but it only have a very small amount of pressure very close to the floor, and no pressure at all before that. I tried to keep pumping and refilling the master, but I've been that for 2 days straight and went through 3 bottles of dot 3 already. I need help please, thank you.

[@Mikeattempts]

I'm no pro but are you using a bottle with a one-way valve? If not, you'll need another person to press the down on the clutch while you open the bleeder. Then, before lifting the pedal back up, you need to close the bleeder. Repeat the process until there's no air in the line and the pedal feels good under your foot.

[@idontwanttogoback236]

@@Mikeattempts I’ve also done that method with my brother, and I have a concerns. Because when my brother was pumping the clutch, and he thought it would be funny to pump it hard and fast constantly slamming the clutch for a good 3 seconds before I told him to stop. So I don’t know if that could have damage the clutch adjustment or not. And I am using the one way valve bleeder. I watched the fluid goes from the nipple to the bleeder bottle until there were no more bubbles but I’ve been at it for a long time. Should I start over? Bleed the master with turkey baster with the slave closed then plug the tube in with the bleeder and pump?

[@Mikeattempts]

@@idontwanttogoback236 The only thing I can think is that your brother sucked in a bunch of air when he was trying to be funny. But if you got all the bubbles out then I don't know what the problem is. I doubt he messed up the adjustment but, like I said, I'm no pro.

[@idontwanttogoback236]

@@Mikeattempts Okay, no worries thanks for replying anyway. I’ll just keep trying the second method and see if I can get anymore pressure on the pedal, but I’m gonna use a wooden stick to hold the clutch instead of my brother this time. My old mentor said keep trying pumping until the pedal stiffen up even if I don’t see anymore bubbles but I don’t know how well that would work since he said “keep trying”.

[@Mikeattempts]

@@idontwanttogoback236 Sounds pretty frustrating but I think you'll get it back to normal.

[@sherribowden2114]

Followed these instructions, using the one-person bleeder bottle... and now have spent HOURS trying to get the air out of the lines because the one-person bleeder bottle apparently let air in IMMEDIATELY upon opening the bleeder valve... so the one-person bleeder bottle can fail and let air in when you first crack the bleeder valve, WITHOUT having the clutch pedal depressed first. 🤬 Apparently, because the bottle can fail, it is really much safer to do this with two people (or use something to push the clutch pedal in) BEFORE each opening of the bleeder valve. If you happen to get a better-functioning bottle than we did, this method might work, but beware of this (pretty big deal) risk of introducing air that does NOT want to come out. Now, back out to the garage with me to continue bleeding the fluid... and cursing my lot in life. Will be returning this bottle to Amazon.

[@Mikeattempts]

That sucks! I've used this bottle on both of our cars and also my clutch with no problems. Be sure to only crack open the bleeder slightly so no air enters past the threads.

[@sherribowden2114]

@@Mikeattempts Yeah, I think if the bottle setup actually worked, I think this would have been a quick job for us... but since the bottle failed, it ended up taking 3 days and lots of f-bombs. We ended up having to detach the slave (replaced it, actually) from the clutch fork and unbolted the last fastener on the hard line to the slave, so we had some free play and were able to do sort of a hybrid "bench bleed/regular bleed" (two-person setup) of the slave by lifting it up as high as it could go, which was ~level with the clutch fluid reservoir. Then, we tied some very tough fabric (I wish I was kidding) around the slave to keep the piston/plunger compressed, and did the two-person bleeding process for HOURS. Pedal still didn't feel good, but had a little more pressure in it, so we bolted the slave back in place and-- voila!-- pedal was back! Ended up with 3/4" free play. Now shifting well again. Lesson learned.

[@Mikeattempts]

@@sherribowden2114 Hahaha, when I hit an unexpected obstacle (which is often) cussing usually helps! ;) Holy hell, I can believe it ended up being such a hassle! I wonder if the bad slave was the culprit all along? That sounds like a horrible job but at least you didn't give up and now it's done.

[@derekwhipple8419]

Hmm i cant seem to be able to bleed my clutch. I can get any fluid moving at all. I even hooked up a vacuum bleeder to it and still nothing comes out. Ive taken the entire nipple off and still nothing. Any tips?

[@Mikeattempts]

I'm no pro but if nothing is coming out, either there's no fluid in the clutch system, the clutch pedal linkage is disconnected, or you didn't actually open the bleeder on the slave cylinder. I guess the clutch master and/or slave cylinders could be bad.

[@derekwhipple8419]

@@Mikeattempts hmm, its quite the conundrum. I've bleed all the break lines on all 3 of my vehicles with my vacuum bleeder kit. So id think the clutch would be the same. I even tried pressing the clutch pedal in and out a bunch. And my clutch still works great, and is very smooth... but the fluid is dirty.

[@Mikeattempts]

@@derekwhipple8419 That's what makes me think maybe you're loosening something other than the clutch bleeder. I'm confused. :)

[@leviklassen2760]

My car clunks a bit when I speed up in first gear is that this problem or something else??

[@Mikeattempts]

That probably doesn't have anything to do with your clutch fluid but it's hard to say and I'm no pro. It could be something wrong with your clutch or transmission.

[@XGen_23]

But when I press the clutch pedal it doesn’t retract

[@Mikeattempts]

Are you using a bottle with a one-way valve? If so, your bleeder screw is probably just open too much. If not, you'll need another person to open the bleeder when you press the clutch and then close the bleeder before you pull the pedal back up with your foot.

[@XGen_23]

@@Mikeattempts I figured it out. I did it all wrong from the very beginning and let a lot of air in. Yes I was using a bleeder bottle. My personal mechanic explained to me that I must bleed it properly by opening the bleeder valve, push the the pedal, close the bleeder valve then pull the pedal. I repeated until and ensured the reservoir was filled until I saw no bubbles. Then I close the bleeder valve and pushed the pedal which there was pressure. It’s fixed.

[@Mikeattempts]

@@XGen_23 Great, glad you got it fixed!

[@idontwanttogoback236]

@@XGen_23 wait so do you open the bleeder before stepping on the clutch then close it before letting off the clutch?

[@XGen_23]

@@idontwanttogoback236 on my last comment I MAY have explained it wrong. Here are the instructions my mechanic gave me: 1. Close the valve, push the pedal down 2 pull the pedal up, open the valve 3 push the pedal down, close the valve 4 repeat steps 3 and 4 until there is pressure and watch fluid level