Honda Odyssey 2011-2017 Sliding Door Cable Repair and Stainless Steel Upgrade installation

Buy from here: www.ebay.com/i...
This is the official video of our installation job, captured in almost real time. MicroFix is the inventor of this cable replacement solution to save Odyssey users a big expense. Our customers include Honda service centers, auto body shops, mechanics, and do it yourself heroes.
There are some "cable guys" lacking sense of fair business practices, replicating our kit and advertising ours is inferior to theirs which is not true. They even buy our kit to leave negative reviews too :) what a shame.
Our Kit is available at: eby.onl/F4

[@sandmanf13aa]

This is by far the best video on how to fix the sliding door cable replacement.. Thanks a million 👍

[@microfix2655]

Thank you Roberto, our installer's head cam got misaligned sometimes, could be better but still gives the idea, glad it helped.

[@tj4ndirish]

Agree. Good video, makes fix looks fairly easy. Watch this video along with one by "Backyard Tech" as B. Li said and you're good to go. He struggled getting cable spooled, while your tech did it simply!! Only thing both of you forgot was part numbers for the cable and maybe a link to where to buy! thanks!

[@microfix2655]

Hi, thank you for your feedback, kit is available on eBay for now: www.ebay.com/itm/322771127473

[@BLi-dt4wd]

Very helpful! Just one thing missed. The nylon rubber shoe need to be taken off and reinstalled in the beginning, as "BackYard Tech" did in his video. Recommend adding that part. I had to cut the nylon shoe to put it on at the end.

[@microfix2655]

Yes, you are right, that sleeve is the first thing to be installed on the cable ends however, per experience, that plastic pieces are not that functional as a dampener and on most cases they are either lost or torn badly. But if you have them in hand, yes why not to put them on. Thanks!

[@ykononov]

Same, had to cut one end to install into the hinge

[@sivucit]

Hi, how many time you have to wind Back cable and front cable before i remove slack.

[@zonezh]

First thanks for the great video, I am about to be a DIY hero if I can fix mine. Question about the cable length, I saw you wind the longer cable all the way to pully and shorter one just few turns, when then connect to the roller, how the door will be positioned, fully open?

[@microfix2655]

Hi, door position does not matter; stage 1 is to get the cables in the motor properly, so the pulley would be full by winding cables around, the point is not leaving any groove blank. Then, on stage 2, you can move the cable ends freely by hand and attach the ends in the door roller regardless of the position. Once all put in the place, sliding door mechanism will reset and relearn the position after 5-10 open/close cycles.

[@lamkaichai8025]

There are two lines, one long and one short, and the short one is installed toward the rear of the car, right?

[@microfix2655]

Yes, since the motors are located in the back side, short cables always go to the back.

[@kphalpin]

Once you put the cover back on, should the white tensioners be pushed in or sticking out? What is the function of them being pushed in vs sticking out?

[@microfix2655]

White tensioners have only one position under the cover, their edges will be slightly sticking out, visible on the cover once the motor is complete. They provide linear counter-spring movement to increase cable tolerance against abrupt stops or other stresses burdening the motor. Also, they ensure cable ends, under the door panel, sitting tightly in cavities without any slack.

[@handy20061]

Hi. Which cable goes in back of the pully? The longer cable or the shorter? Driver sliding side door is mine. Thank you.

[@microfix2655]

When you look at the unit from the opened cover (electric motor on the top right side) like shown in the beginning of the video. Cable on the left ALWAYS goes under the pulley. Depending on the DR/PS side, cable on the left can be shorter or longer one.

[@richbothmann3649]

How many wraps do I need to wrap each cable around the pulley before I reinstall it in the housing?

[@microfix2655]

Until both cables meet on the same pulley channel. You may start from the back cable, wind it till the end, put the pulley back in place, then put the other cable on the top cavity and wind it a couple inches. When you look at the both cables closely seated on the pulley, they should be on the same channel. So on there, one cable winds while the other unwinds during pulley rotation.

[@richbothmann3649]

@@microfix2655 Thanks for the explanation. That is clear and makes sense. I've seen videos of people winding the spool while the motor housing is installed in the car. They say it was the hardest part of the job. I can see that it would be tedious but having to do it in an uncomfortable location and awkward positions rather than on my workbench under good lighting while I'm seated comfortably would make the little extra effort of removing the motor housing worth it.

[@avsararas]

@@richbothmann3649 Number one hindrance is trying to work on the motor mounted in its place. In Mitsuba factory, they install the cables and then hand them to Honda plant.

[@tj4ndirish]

Got the cables. I have the motor apart, but one of the tensioners is broken. Any idea of where to get a replacement??

[@microfix2655]

Inner parts are not sold anywhere, but the good news is you can fix the tensioner plastic with a soldering iron. The plastic has very good thermoplastic properties and you can fix it very strongly with some care and patience.

[@tj4ndirish]

@@microfix2655 Thanks for your quick response. NOT what I wanted to hear!!! Plastic soldering??? Can I use JB Weld for plastic? Never heard of plastic soldering!

[@microfix2655]

​@@tj4ndirish​Give it a try and use JB weld or other epoxy variant and see how it breaks into parts in a matter of seconds under linear tension. Your lack of information about plastic welding with a soldering iron (obviously not with solder on it) has no effect on that solution is being the best in the industry. I am talking from an engineering standpoint but I know it is not for everyone. I am sorry to tell you something you do not want to hear, good luck.

[@tj4ndirish]

@@microfix2655 So you are saying JB Weld doesn't work? I've watched a few videos on plastic soldering. Just simply use a soldering iron and melt it together? See a fee using zip ties as reinforcement. I'm willing to try anything. It's going to work or I have to buy a new motor. Since I've already got JB on it, will that hurt it?

[@microfix2655]

@@tj4ndirish Not all plastics are good for welding, because they burn and become more fragile during heat application. However the plastic used in this tensioner is excellent for heat repairs. FYI: If you contaminate the parts with epoxy, the joint will be bad. Zip ties may not work, without seeing the issue I assume, heat weld is the best option according to my experience working on those motors. Just join the parts with hand and slowly weld it by melting a little at a time. Once you cover all cracks with molten plastic the result will work like new.