Honda TRANSALP SW Motech Crash Bars / How To Install Guide

[@kendallg8733]

Great video! Installed mine today, followed your vid and it went smooth. Thanks for the helpful content!

[@westsideav]

Good News! The side cowlings can be removed and reattached just fine with the bars installed and tightened down. The right side was harder as it is tighter to get the nuts on in the back. Left was super easy after fastening the right bars. Torquing the 6 bolts is a bit of a challenge but not too bad. So the whole installation can be done w/o the side panels (or cowls) on they slip on and off easily. Just be sure to have a rag on the plastic as you slip them in to keep from scratching the black finish.

[@StormcrowIV]

I really appreciate this easy-to-follow installation guide. I'm trying to decide on crash bars for my Transalp. I'm concerned about the SW-Motechs because of the bar going right in front of the radiator (you connect the two halves at 6:25). From photos alone, it seems like a hard drop could buckle that bar into the radiator I'm trying to protect. Since you've seen it in-person, do you have an opinion on this? Is that a valid concern or do you think it's a nonissue? Thanks in advance.

[@robertkeoghane2554]

Nice video.What are the torque settings for the engine mount bolts please?

[@andrewcollis8779]

What are the torque settings for the larger M12 bolts into the engine ?

[@TheSilverOrca]

I was originally going to go with the Transalp but ended up getting the VStrom 800DE, and this is a main reason. not that anything is wrong with the video, its that it seemed like a pain to work on. the 800DE has dedicated mounting points for crash bars, without removing anything.

I need help!!! I had some problems when tightening the 17mil bolt (the one that goes into the engine thread) I tightened the 17mm bolts all the way in without knowing for sure the right tourque (or angle) and then later removed them again to check. After removing the 17mm bolts, i found A LOT OF metal dust coming out of the engine case threads. I then tried to re-installed the 17mm bolts AGAIN, this time at 60nm tourque. It felt very very tight. My questions are: was the metal dust coming out of the engine case thread... a sign of cross-threading / the thread being stripped out??? Or is it normal?Will there be any problems in the future? Is the 17 bolt supposed to drill new threads into the that junction??? Or did i install it the wrong way and stripped it??? If so, what should i do next? Please educate me

[@solulogic]

Did we need to remove the bar each time we checks the air filter when we remove the side panel ?

[@mariopr2278]

You don't need to remove the bars, there is enough space to take out the side panels.

[@MotoCampAdv]

That fourth tricky bolt isn't necessary to remove the fairing . I don't know why in the manual it shows it but it's definitely not attached to the outer fairing.

[@Maxsmotoshop]

Yeah, I realize that afterwards as well could’ve swore I saw it in the instructions though

[@emagalhaesss]

Hey, you notice vibrations after the instalation ? in the foot pegs and handlebar

[@Maxsmotoshop]

No, I never did

[@emagalhaesss]

@@Maxsmotoshop Thanks

[@jobrn1]

Hi, great vid. I am glad I have found your guide. I am installing mine, but I already have my sw motech skid plate on with mounting brackets which is in the way a little. (I will remove it) Did you access those back bolts 17 and 8 on the back side easy? When installing the bars. I am struggling with it a little. What size are those nuts? 15mm? Thanks!

[@jobrn1]

Okay sorry. :) I kept watching just the middle part and forgot about the ending where you showed it how did you tightened it. So before you installed plastic side covers back, you did not put the nuts on the bolts correct? it was held a little just with the 10mm bolt with no nut from other side.

[@Maxsmotoshop]

Usually 17 and 14 Honda does not use 15 very often

[@centralcoastcruiser2084]

I have the SW Motech skid plate and will probably get the Motech upper guards but it looks like there isn't any protection for the engine especially on the left side where the skid plate doesn't give any side protection. I'm disappointed there's no lower engine guard if the bike falls over like all the other brands have made including the Honda OE guards.

[@drewtietz2274]

@@jobrn1 They are indeed 15 mm nuts

[@mrkaiju3292]

Thanks!

[@AdolfAdolfovich1375]

Thanks, good luck!

[@Maxsmotoshop]

Thanks, you too!

[@preuc3367]

Thanks for the video. Have been thinking about getting an adventure bike.

[@westsideav]

Why not install the side panels last? Is that more difficult with the bars installed? Seems that way you could torque the bolts easier. I just ordered these bars and was very happy to find your channel, subscribing. Thanks for posting this great video...

[@Maxsmotoshop]

You can’t properly fit the panel into place with the crash bars installed

[@westsideav]

So this means any time you want to remove the side panels, you have to remove the crash bars. I wonder if you can modify the panel mounts to make this possible. Is it the rubber grommets that make it too tight? @@Maxsmotoshop

[@drewtietz2274]

@@westsideav You can leave the crash bars fully torqued and in place while you remove or install the side fairings. I have no idea why Max thinks you do. Its as if the guy commenting hasn't actually worked on the bike

[@jhackett9482]

On mine the right side 17 mil bolt stripped out the engine case threads. Not happy!

[@drewtietz2274]

See if you can retap the whole with a M12 x 1.25 tap. I had a little issue with mine as well. I messed up the first 3-4 rows of threads and after could not get the bolt to bite without crossthreading. Running a M12 x 1.25 tap restored the threads. There are about 30 rows of threads available in that junction, you probably have plenty of chance to restore

[@jhackett9482]

That's what I did but it was frustrating. The instructions should make sure to say start that bolt first. Then it probably would not happen. Or they could be a little more precise on the machining.

I need help!!! I might have the same problem. When installing the SW crashbar, I tightened the 17mm bolts all the way in without knowing for sure the right tourque (or angle) and then later removed them again to check. After removing the 17mm bolt, i found A LOT OF metal dust coming out of the engine case threads. I then tried to re-installed the 17mm bolt AGAIN, this time at 60nm tourque. It felt very very tight. My questions are: was the metal dust coming out of the engine case thread... a sign of cross-threading / the thread being stripped out??? Or is it normal?Will there be any problems in the future? Is the 17 bolt supposed to drill new threads into the that junction??? Or did i install it the wrong way and stripped it??? If so, what should i do next? Please educate me

[@VL-77]

Bonjour, ou est ce que je peux trouver la force de serrage du gros boulon pour le moteur ?? --> kzbin.info/www/bejne/mWW0n5Sgmpeniac Merci