Most Common Problems: 1997 - 2001 Honda CRV RD1 RD2

In this episode, I cover the most common issues I see on the 1st generation Honda Crv's that come through my shop.
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[@ds4390]

98 5 speed with 362k. Thankfully fixed nearly everything listed here already.

[@mjdiemand3547]

Same here - these cars rock!

[@daveherringbone1112]

I have owned a 98 CRV since it was new, a common problem I have had is that the electronic air control valve bolted to the back of the intake manifold becomes fouled, causing rough idle. It needs to be cleaned with brake cleaner every 10,000 miles or so. Keeps the car idling smooth.

[@RastaJediX]

I'm thinking I need to do this because I had surging idle with IACV DTC for a second.

[@dannymartinez8522]

Every 10k miles sounds like over kill lol maybe once a year🤷‍♂️🤔

[@jacobgillean7129]

​@Danny Martinez well every 10k miles is once a year for a lot of people

[@dannymartinez8522]

@@jacobgillean7129 I never had issue bruh

[@jacobgillean7129]

@Danny Martinez same here. But my friend has had that issue on one of his crvs and his del sol

[@gailmrutland6508]

*1999 CR-V EX, 267K miles two years ago the a/c compressor went (part $168/ + $120 install) and charge, 2 rear links and the cruise control does not work, the clock in the center of the console doesn't work and I had to replace the door pull latch drivers side, $11 for the part and about 20 mins of my time. That's it. Best car I ever owned.*

[@jonathanvillegas1842]

wow thats awesome! just got a 2004 crv 170k in immaculate condition and i mean immaculate! hope to see it get to the 267k

[@kirleyq1394]

The clock didn't work in mine when I first bought it. I took it out, disassembled it and followed a tutorial on here to reflow solder. Worked like a charm. Just be careful when removing it from the dash as the dash is soft and likes to crack when leveraged against. :)

[@gailmrutland6508]

@@kirleyq1394Thanks!

[@mrtdiver]

@@gailmrutland6508See video: Honda Cruise Control Fix With A Penny_ DIY Jeff I am not sure, but the above YT video MAY be the fix your cruise control issue. And read the comments section afterwards, because there's an adjustment. See 5th comment down, made by @itzmrfizz

[@screamingcockatoo]

My 2001 I bought with 32,000 on it in 2008, now has almost 400,000 on it. The manual transmission is bulletproof. I've replaced all the ball joints once. And one front wheel bearing. It' has the original CV axles. I disassembled and regreased them. And put on new boots.

[@markdebeer2176]

I live in South Africa and own a 98. Most issues you mention I have dealt with. One issue that there was with mine is on the ignition switch. There is a small harness about 4 inches long that connects the ignition to the wiring harness. The ignition wire fails, causing the car to cut out while driving, and you have to restart. In the beginning it happens intermittently, but get to a point where you start the car and it dies immediately, and to replace it costs a small fortune in my country. I solved the problem by brigding the ACC switch and the ignition switch with a small piece of wire. This was 9 years ago and never had problems again. Only drawback, when you switch the car on at ACC the dash lights up. Hope the advice helps someone

[@joeysquarepants]

I'm gonna buy my first CR-V tomorrow. 1998 with 85,000 miles. This video help me a lot

[@hondaresource]

Dang! Low miles!!!

[@ddjddj7461]

Nice. I recently bought a 1999 LX with 58,633 from a little old lady neighbor. I had a 2001 LxX that I had bought brand new. Your videos are the best.

[@RocioL2012]

Did you get it ? How much did you pay? I'm going to see a 1997 someone is selling for $2,900

[@SaulnowPaul77722]

Yes ! Nice low miles!

[@IamJanz]

I inherited a first-generation 98 manual CRV, and everything you've mentioned is exactly what's wrong with it right now 🤣 awesome vid dude!!

[@dochvtech22]

Look up gene Kim n Robert breaker on KZbin

[@butterzowey]

Just FYI on the passenger side water on the floor. I have dealt with this issue on a few of them. On the roof there is a black strip that runs from the windshield to the rear window. There is a body seam under that trim and the sealant cracks. The water enters the body seam, runs down the a-piller then behind the dash and onto the floor.

[@hondaresource]

I'll definitely check that out as I have one here now with that problem

[@DunOpondo]

I also have the same problem

[@gomertube]

A cruddy door seal will also cause a "leak" onto the front passenger floor.

[@paulettemcintosh1834]

currently I need advice how to deal with mines I have the 1998 model with sunroof and when rain fall heavy both passanger and driver side water on the flooring please what cause this really need to get this sought out soon as possible. could it be the sunroof rubber need changing if so where can I source the rubber online to purchase. Help anyone please how to deal with this problem.

[@kenankabbani855]

How would you fix that?

[@Nex5Network]

I swapped the rear diff for the unit from the 2008-11 Element, and it makes a huge difference! Drives much more like a car, the original diff makes it feel like a heavy truck, even though it's a unibody.

[@adihus67]

I have a CRV from 99, 147 hp, and i'm interested. Besides the quieter move how about the power ? How difficult is to replace the diff ? Does it fit ?

[@Nex5Network]

@@adihus67 It's not hard to replace the diff, it's very accessible. The power feels much better, it completely changes the driving feel of the CR-V, feels like a nimble car instead of a truck, even on the snow. It's an exact fit because they used the same casing as the original unit, which makes sourcing one difficult, they only way to tell which one has the upgrade is by model year.

[@Nex5Network]

I didn't notice any difference in noise between the new and old diff, but neither seems loud

[@dominicdo]

The automatic transmission models often experience a shift flare when shifting into 3rd gear and a shudder during deceleration. The driver’s side window motor tends to weaken over time, causing the window to roll up slowly. The ignition lock cylinder can also bind, usually due to metal powder from the worn-down key accumulating in the cylinder. Blowing it out with compressed air worked for me. Additionally, the driver’s side power door lock may start making a buzzing noise and eventually stop locking the door. I cleared out the dust from the lock assembly, and it’s been functioning well for the last 10 years. Another common issue is the muffler-to-intermediate pipe connection breaking due to rust. These are a few extra things that weren’t mentioned in the video.

[@darrylstevens2556]

My 2001 manual 5 speed in newly painted Milano red will hit 300K soon. I do all maintenance myself & it runs like a dream. I've experienced about half the issues you list & some you haven't. The last part I replaced was a door lock actuator. Those $9 aftermarket actuators are junk! My CRV is only the 2nd car I've ever owned & I just turned 60 yrs old. My last car was a Mazda RX7. Only Japanese.

[@hondaresource]

Nice! We have 2 '93 rx7s

[@gomertube]

I saw a bright red 2001 recently. Couldn’t believe how nice the new paint job was. Did you have a chain outfit do the work or local shop?

[@darrylstevens2556]

@@gomertube Went to Maaco. Filled any dents myself to save money. $1300. I was told I didn't need their premium paint job. No orange peel & damn looks brand new.

[@gomertube]

@@darrylstevens2556 Thanks, man.

[@mickeymattackphotocine]

Great informational video. Was able to fix the clock in my old first gen with a $10 sottering iron. Only issue i had for the 30,000 miles of ownership i had was a sticky thermostat. Sold it to a good friend with over 300,000 miles on the odo and its still going strong

[@hondaresource]

I've fixed a couple clocks over the years. I dont even bother with them now

[@godfirst6880]

Huh? I tried to fix my clock with a solidering iron, I plugged it in, came on for 2 seconds and went back out.😐 I tried to solder as much as I can but couldn't get under a circuit board plate..the plate is like glued on.

[@darrylstevens2556]

For the clock I bought.a LED kit on Amazon for about $10 that fits inside the existing case. No battery required if you hook it up to the exiting car battery wiring. Voltage divider (2 resistors) will reduce the voltage down to under 4 V. All the old clock components get tossed.

[@druf.]

@Darryl Stevens can you please link me to the led kit you used? Also tried to solder two diff oem clocks, works intermittently. Seems like the problem is in the wiring harness which i’d rather not deal with. Clock seems to work when moving harness in diff positions

[@darrylstevens2556]

@@druf. try this you tube video. I did not use the supplied battery though & instead connected to my car battery but dropped the voltage down to under 5V using 2 resistors. kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXXJnnaObtKtetk

[@VanessaSB__]

I have a 99 and I have had almost all of these issues. We’re just working on the door wiring now 😅 love her

[@radixreuel7631]

Impressed, pretty much nailed all the challenges of owning a much beloved first gen CRV. Thanks

[@carynyou]

You are BRILLIANT !! ❗Thank you for all your video's. I in past years all I have owned are older Honda CRV's. I don't want to own anything else.

[@hondaresource]

Not sure what would cause a smell

[@SaulnowPaul77722]

Have you had any problems with your automatic transmission if so can I ask you a question I have a 2000 CRV $204,000 MI....

[@howardblasingame7961]

The only thing more quirky than a CRV, is a CRV owner.

[@itsjiraheta]

Thanks for the vid. I love my 1st Gen CRV. I do have some issues but for the most part, these cars are tanks. A true testament to Japanese quality cars when they were still made in Japan.

[@hondaresource]

I love them man

[@itsjiraheta]

​@@hondaresource Quick question for you, a while back I had an issue with the transmission slipping. (I had the transmission rebuild but still giving me problems, diff issue) .What is your recommendation when it comes to transmission and giving problems on this gen 1 Vs. Do you look for a wrecked one and swap it? (but I am afraid I am just buying time before it happens again). What's your take on this? I know the gen 1 Vs are notorious to have transmission issues. Thanks in advance for the comment on my question. And awesome content on the channel. You got a new subcriber here. :)

[@SaulnowPaul77722]

@@itsjiraheta I had the 2 trans oil sending units replaced and the trans goes good now....only issue is I get a small clunk when going into 2 nd gear....but I'm having trouble passing emissions because it still trigger's the check engine light....The Tork converter ......I'm looking to get a used trans on eBay or Junkyard.....then having it installed.....But common problem......

[@itsjiraheta]

@@SaulnowPaul77722 Thanks for the info. I just hit 200k. Doing a lot of work on it. I went to a junkyard and got me some some working selenoids. I hope that helps me. Doing a transmission flush too. Ill share my findings. But, I have heard the same thing. That tends to be a common problem. Thanks for the reply.

[@robinhairell7780]

I have 1997 Japanese RHD! Love my little Beeden! I am a mail carrier in the north. AWD handles snow like a champ!!!

[@davidheaton2215]

Great video man love your videos on these v's. You and couple other people i follow on the internet saved me lots of money learning how to repair things. I really appreciate it. Keep up the great work!!

[@hondaresource]

Awesome man, I'm happy to have you here

[@salisouariziki1431]

@@hondaresource Je suis réparateur au Togo Badou Wawa La boite automatique PNRD21Sa déplace lentement pas de force

[@rp8419]

You are spot on Sir…have had most of these problems…still a tough little car

[@danteparks3871]

just bought my first car and it was a 2001 honda cr-v thanks for the video i learned a lot

[@hondaresource]

Awesome

[@saxoman1995]

I was wondering where that leak was coming from. Thank you for the great info.

[@gomertube]

In my '01 it's not a leak as such but a dirty, cruddy door seal that directs water into the car. The seal has a fold that has to be opened up and cleaned out. I use the car key because it's pointed but blunt and won't puncture the rubber.

[@shalenaross5779]

wow the timing on this video is great for me... just now noticed a significant amount of moisture green mold under my mats after 17 years of having this car. it's always stayed dry until recently after we moved from our place that had a covered carport.

[@hondaresource]

I hope you get it fixed!

[@sulongenjop7436]

I have 1995 model and still running good today.

[@hondaresource]

Awesome

[@moonants]

Thank you for all the valuable info. The one serious design fault that has bothered me is how the rear tailgate works. It is instinctive to just go straight for the handle on the tailgate, if you dont know to first lift up the glass. Obviously, as the owner, it is not a problem, but generally when someone else opens the back, they just open the tailgate, so that the glass gets forced up and drops again.... and then, if they try to close the tailgate, it will just break the glass. The printed warning is difficult to see, and pretty useless. The other irritating issue that I have noticed, - my CRV has the built in roof racks that run above the doors. Pretty useless compared to those that run perpendicular over the roof, and also no sensible way to tie ropes.... but the worst issue is that there is a gutter to collect rain water that runs under the roof rack, and there is a post just above the front door, so when it has been raining, and the roof is wet, when you brake, all the water runs forward, hits that post and then pours down the window.... if the window is open, it pours down onto the driver - happens to me often, and I curse myself for not anticipating it.

[@hondaresource]

They fixed it with the 2nd gen. 😂

[@matthewnorris203]

USE THE BEST JAPAN PARTS YOU CAN FIND! Use Sankei 555 suspension ball joints, tire, rod, etc. NGK, NSK, NTN, Ishino Stone, etc. You’ll be glad you did.

[@hondaresource]

Solid advice

[@bravoatila8103]

I am 72 . live in Argentina..but I am ready to buy ..I want to say thank you for you generosity sharing your knowledge...thank you.

[@hondaresource]

Glad I could help. Best of luck with your CRV

[@sakaraist]

Completely right about working in the rust... Did my 99 crv's front suspension recently and the driver side came off okay, passenger side every second bolt needed to be drilled out or cut through. I can say from personal experience, a grinder doesn't nicely fit where most those bolts are and cutting through suspension components is a hell of a lot of work lol. At least I have a sweet CRV now though I suppose...

[@asspounderextreme69]

I've had my 98 for a little over a year. Bought it when I decided to start tearing my Miata apart and bring it to full project car status... The CR-V has been great! I've definitely got a couple little issues, but overall these cars are very solid. I discovered lately that my harmonic balancer is pretty torn up, and that's why I've had a bunch of strange noises with my AC running.. this is an issue that's been going on the whole time I've been driving the car, (pretty sure it's the original is why I'm impressed) and I rolled the thing over to 300,000 miles. Honestly, once I replace the HB and replace basically the whole front suspension this will be a 100% solid vehicle again. I've driven Hondas with over 400,000 miles is why I bought the CRV.. my first Honda that I bought, out of necessity, and it is one of my favorite cars I've ever owned. The things definitely have a bit of charm to them! They make me drive like an adult for once and that's dang refreshing. Otherwise it seems like you can just pile miles onto the things and they are TurnKey reliable as long as you give your due diligence.

[@hondaresource]

Crv's are definitely great multi purpose vehicles

[@nobodynoone2500]

Don't cheap out on the Damper/Pulley. Get a good one. Using the solid aluminum ones will eventially eat your oil pump. Be wary of anyone promoting them.

[@pnwmotocross]

I recently acquired an 01' V and it had a burnt Cyl 3 exhaust valve. JDM B20B. Pulled the head. Lapped valves. Replaced burnt valve and seals. Installed and it runs great but seems to be consuming a ton of oil. Think I've got bad or stuck rings. It also does this super weird thing where it starts great cold but when warm it long cranks and barely sputters to life. I'm currently chasing that issue. And per your valve lash vid, lash is spot on. I really took my time with that so I don't think that's the issues. 175 miles so far in this rebuild. 😊

[@yorgomonge4546]

Hey thanks for the video, I have a 01 crv and I bought it about 2 years ago and I love it even with all the millage "230" it's still running solid but it's doing something that I don't know what it is, ans what it's doing is that the engine stops for no reason even when I'm driving in the middle of the road, then I Have to pull over and let it rest for 15 minutes and then I cracked and it's back to life and it's doing it more and more, I think it's a sensor or gas pump I don't know,

[@hondaresource]

Either main relay or distributor 99.9%

[@mastermckenney3]

Full distributor or maybe if its hot out vapor lock, weak fuel pump.

[@ninawarren303]

Did the same & it was the relay switch

[@adamtjapkes7804]

I’m having the same issues. I’m about to change the main relay today and see if it fixes it. Knock on wood! Will update if it fixes it

[@1dnsModzbo2esterman]

@@adamtjapkes7804 did it work ?

[@danaquino7915]

Great content, man! You're one of very the few relatable content creators on this topic! I'm heavily contemplating on getting a Gen 1 2000/2001 CRV -- can you talk on their 20+ year old automatic transmission? What to look for before buying, it's reliability and it's maintenance? The local buy & sell groups seem to sell the AT (automatic transmission) at a much affordable price than the MTs, buy Im quite wary of the AT's possible issues and upkeep -- especially on a 20+ year old Honda. I've never had a AT vehicle ever, but I'm so tempted to get one on a gen 1 CRV! Keep the informative content coming, and thank you!

[@hondaresource]

generally they are pretty solid. The auto will most likely fail before the manual.

[@sandrahall3396]

I’m having the worst trouble with my 2000 Honda CR-V manual. About 4 or 5 months ago, it started stalling at idle and it idled a little rough. About 3 months ago it started stalling why I was driving it. I bought an Ancel OBD2 and it would throw random codes. One day it would say O2 sensor (upstream), then P1399, P0300, and P0301-304 (all cylinders misfiring). One single time it threw P0505 (idle control system), and P0122 (TPS switch A circuit low). There was no rhyme or reason to it, the codes would be here today and gone tomorrow, replaced by a different code. The short term fuel trim was all over the place at idle (-7.0 to -17.6). I checked every single vacuum line for vacuum leak, with an entire can of brake cleaner, but nothing. We have replaced, O2 sensor, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, distributor (with new cam sensor), TPS, and probably half a dozen other things that I can’t remember at the moment. We drove it to my mechanics, I would only make it a few miles and it would stall. I had to wait 15 minutes, without ever trying to crank it, before it would crank again and go another few more miles. On the last 10 miles, I got in behind a person driving 35mph and it never stalled again, which honestly had me baffled. Anyway he put it in his Snap-on machine and it came up “Temporary Code List, DE0604H/1455032, Refresh To OEM.” So he’s at a loss as well. Ok, after writing a book about it (sorry about that), the only thing that I believe that can be it is the ECU/ECM. My husband says that the only thing it needs now is a match in the gas tank. 😒😂 Have you ever experience anything this mysterious with a first Gen CR-V, or am I just having bad luck?

[@80sDweeb]

I'd be very interested in a common problems with the 2nd gen CR-V, as well!

[@hondaresource]

I can definitely do that

[@FamspecPerformance]

See my content.. we deal with 2nd gens

[@carlosbarba4753]

Yeah, that would be a good idea...

[@williamchapman2607]

I just had all the frame bushings renewed in my 1st-gen CR-V - MUCH quieter now. Also had the door wiring problem - had the dealership do all the soldering - pretty good job - still works.

[@GayleBeatty]

Great channel! Just got a 2001 for my grandson first car. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@hondaresource]

Awesome, I hope he enjoys it!

[@wrenchesinmotion3282]

Just did a boatload of work to mine, including engine swap, most of the suspension replaced. just had one horn go out, which killed the brake lights, etc. Fixed that, and the rear washer. The only thing left is the Cruise control, which used to work and a front end alignment.

[@brandonjones5637]

Man your crv videos are great, I've had a lot of these issues with mine. Nice crocs btw lmao

[@hondaresource]

I love the Crocs man

[@brandonjones5637]

@@hondaresource never had a pair, might have to try them out

[@hondaresource]

@@brandonjones5637 me either until about 2 months ago. Now I wear these things like everyday

[@shalenaross5779]

thank you lord for this channel, video, and comment section!

[@hondaresource]

Welcome!

[@manooch]

Thanks. very clear filming of under the car and front end. Crv is a good car but this is the first time I have had this kind of car (2002 crv) which you can remove oil filter by turning the poassanger wheel to the right and you see the oil filter, just newly I found this by myself , otherwise is very hard to remove oil filter from under the car!

[@jdmnuggets]

Bro you forgot to mention the biggest problem, how cooked the owners are 😂😂. Seam seal in the roof channels and firewall near the cowl can split and leak ussualy after cleaning dirt and grime away.... fun times. Good video dude, much love from new Zealand

[@hondaresource]

Thank you man

[@jaybilawchuk2225]

This is exactly my problem!! Water leak on drivers side somewhere up near the firewall. And there’s zero info on that. All kinds of info on the passenger side leak but never on the drivers side. Great video. Thank you for taking the time to make these vids on the first gens!!!

[@davidheaton2215]

I agree with you jay bilawchuk !!! I have a leak on the drivers side too. So annoying!!!

[@KennethAAboh]

The alternator is giving me issues.

[@marcibunn]

40 amp option fuse u nder hood of 98 Honda crv i pulled out and accidentally dropped it nto area under fuse box. cant see or get to.

[@hondaphan4172]

I bought my '98 CRV in March of that year and it currently has a little over 292k miles under her belt so I'm coming from a place of experience. I've found checking/adjusting the valve clearance every 30k miles to be overkill. I slowly kept extending the intervals to see if it made any difference, I now do it every 50k miles and even at that interval I usually only have to adjust several exhaust valves to the loose side of specs. Last year I replaced the original lower ball joints with the Proforged brand which I've had good luck with when I replaced the outer tie rod ends around five years ago. Another thing to watch is the condition of the rear trailing arm bushings which I replaced last year as well. Great video!

[@hondaresource]

Awesome, yeah I was just going off what Honda recommends

[@d1sk12002]

Great content my bro. Love your videos. I own 2 first gen crv’s and they’re both manual. They’re pretty rare everywhere with manual transmissions. One is a 99 lx and the other is a 01 ex. Love them both. The 01 I bought back in 2010. Picked it up from a surfer dude in Santa Barbara :)

[@hondaresource]

That's awesome!

[@bakihanma7247]

H2B swap one of the bad boys cut the Qsd kit for the starter and you ready to go

[@hondaresource]

@@bakihanma7247 I'm a dealer for PLM and sell a h2b kit. It's kinda tough to find h motors around here though

[@d1sk12002]

@@bakihanma7247 not a bad idea. I was thinking about changing pistons and rods on the lx and boosting it. Also a custom b series tranny. 1&2 gears from 99-00 si 3&4 gears gar and 5th from integra ls.

[@d1sk12002]

H series are kind of hard to come by here also. I’m in California. Plenty of b series and k series though.

[@k.m.h.1346]

I just bought one really cheap and it literally has everything you explained. 😂😂😂 not more not less. I got the clock working for a minute but it failed again.

[@hondaresource]

🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@tonybucca5667]

I have a 99 CR-V My door wire harness was pinched BAD. 22 WIRES going to the door!. I spliced in a foot of new wires in between....44 connections! Luckily, I was a car audio installer in a previous decade, so it was more pain in the neck than anything else. I'm hoping to install 2 inch spacers soon, and get my baby BACK on the road! The guy that I bought the car from had let a ball joint go for a long time, and it made a seal go in my steering rack, with an endless drip. I'm replacing THAT too. I don't consider that a "common" problem.

[@ZacharyWThomas]

Crazy, I have a 5 speed first gen CR-V in this same clover green, so this video was a godsend for my clicking suspension lol

[@hondaresource]

Hopefully you get it figured out. Occasionally I see the sway bar bushings go bad but most likely it's the end links

[@user-ww6dx2kq5t]

Mine too , exact , 2000 crv ex 5 speed ,

[@dochvtech22]

Look up gene Kim n chuck missler on KZbin

[@HarryKamal-c4d]

Also a problem I noticed is that when leaves fall into the fresh air vent they start to biodegrade, creating soil that clogs the drain in the pan which causes water to pool and moldy smells.

[@Shiekh420]

IVE BEEN SEARCHING YOUR CHANNEL FOR A RACK AND PINION REPLACEMENT VIDEO FOR 1ST GEN 4WD OR POWER STEERING PUMP IF YOU HAVENT MADE THEM YET PLEASE MAKE ONE NO ONE ELSE HAS AN EXCELLENT WAY OF EXPLAINING THE PROCESS LIKE YOU IN THE CORRECT DETAIL. I THINK I KILLED MY POWER STEERING WHEN I PUT IN THE WRONG FLUID AND ITS JUST PISSING FLUID SO I THINK I MAY HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY.

[@hondaresource]

Thank you! I haven't made a video for doing the rack and pinion yet. It's not a fun job. I can make on for the pump at some point.

[@Shiekh420]

@@hondaresource CAN I USE A POWER STEERING PUMP FROM THE JUNKYARD BECAUSE I PUT REGULAR POWER STEERING FLUID IN MINE AND IT STARTED LEAKING LIKE CRAZY. WOULD I HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE SYSTEM TO INSURE THAT NONE OF THE AMERICAN FLUID IS IN THE SYSTEM?

[@keyboard-commentator]

maaaan i wish i woulda known about this channel 2 yrs ago when i spent months trying to figure out what the clunking noise was on my 99 crv. finally figured out it was the tie rod end. but man, it was such a PITA to figure out exactly what it was. edit: wow, my clock is broken too! it's been broken for years.

[@hondaresource]

Welcome aboard!

[@darrylstevens2556]

Buy a LED clock off of Amazon that fits inside the casing. Skip the clock battery & wire it to the existing car wiring. Reduce the 12V to under 4V using voltage divider. I used 2 resistors.

[@mopar2ya165]

The rusting rear subframe connectors and torn torque mounts are super common.

[@hondaresource]

We dont have rust here in Alabama so I have little experience with it

[@mopar2ya165]

@@hondaresource you wouldnt think kansas would be bad for rust, but those bars trap water. Just rewired drivers door wire bulkhead today..

[@JerkingwithJesus]

For crv's or any vehicle's that are from the north, like me in Canada will have to have the brake lines and fuel lines replaced by now. The plastic guard that protects them, ends up just trapping salty moisture which cause them to rust faster. Also like any vehicle the axles will go, on the crv's the the rubber dampener might come detached and cause some sounds or vibrations.

[@hondaresource]

Yeah I've cut those dampeners off several of them

[@Frost_Tiger]

Yup I'm trying to revive a 99 crv and the brake and gas lines need to be replaced 😅

[@hondaresource]

@@Frost_Tiger ooof, best of luck

[@Frost_Tiger]

@@hondaresource thanks I'm a need all luck I can get it runs and drives but hasn't really moved in years since probably 2017 or 2018 I'm still not sure paint faded and I hope the head isn't blowing 😅

[@CL-ty6wp]

Axles going isnt normal on all vehicles. Never had to replace axles on any ifs f150 or gm 1500 ive driven. Rear axle seals though.

[@michaelbarlow6062]

Replaced those noisy tie rod links on my 01 with 130000 miles on it today only problem I’ve had is the clock doesn’t work

[@stephiecee7232]

Heyyyy just watching this video. I already identified some issues! thank you

[@spoopy2972]

Some other problems that can occur: Axles can break causing clunking from sharp turns. Back window mounts break. Valve stem seals tend to wear out and cause oil to burn and come out the exhaust while idling the car and will eventually clear up when driving. doors mechanisms some times freeze and become stuck shut not a fun time trying to get it to release as if it locks again it will be stuck again. Windshields are prone to rocks xD just in my luck.

[@anguspatterson9093]

i totally agree there is nothing worse than working on rusty cars, great videos you are helping me keep my little honda on the road :-)

[@hondaresource]

Thank you sir!

[@Teknakill]

Salt and snow, worst four letter S words ever!

[@adihus67]

Water leakage in the front seats comes fom a hole in the floor which corresponds with the sunroof.. Another problem are the valve seals, they must be replaced at 150-200 000 km. Otherwise you will face oil consume.. Lambda sensor also must be replaced after 200 000km

[@luciancastillo1337]

Dude I hate working on a rusty car 😢 appreciate the video 👍🏼

[@keaaul808]

Oh, I was waiting for you to have nailed the PGMFI and/or main relay problem, notorious for most Honda models of these years range. The cold solder joints on the PCB board, easy to fix or replace.

[@hondaresource]

The main relays can definitely be an issue!

[@Snicker60515]

I'm getting infected with the itch to buy one of these to compliment my GE Fit Sport and I saw one locally on the classifieds for $1500. Now that price for Puerto Rico is a red flag already, but the ad mentions that the car has a "bad" water pump. Is that something I should just walk away from because of a greater issue(head gasket?) or something a timing belt kit can cure? Great video and thanks for sharing!

[@dontoolshop815]

I have a 2000 lx 5 speed grey but no arm rest on the front seats

[@rambug99]

😎 One thing that was an issue in the first generation was the ignition switch some they warranted others it's a quick fix just swap it out but If you don't the whole car will just shut off.

[@hondaresource]

I've definitely dealt with that issue several times across many of the 90s era Hondas

[@RunItUpBanga]

Do you have an ignition switch replacement video much needed 🙏😮‍💨

[@promansplainor5245]

Oil leak, assume oil pressure sending unit first if in that area. Rear wheels splay out, adjustable top camber links.

[@bluedrew]

Love you...but when you talk about changing sway links you said just "take off the bolt"...yeah right! It just slips. Hex key doesn't grip. Sawzall and/or grinder. Waiting g for that video!

[@hondaresource]

Some things easier said than done for sure

[@marclemery6673]

Thank you so much for this video! Possible there's a little differential chatter in the front? I have that chatter on mine but it seems to be coming from the front. My model is manual transmission if it makes a difference.

[@DcanOGaming]

i have a 97 honda crv with a b20b4 engine that has a bad valve lifter can you make a diy video on how to replace a bad lifter cause i dont have $3000 to take it in to the shop to get it fixed plus ive been trying to learn how to fix parts on my car myself and your videos really help me out with that

[@manooch]

For 2002 crv if you want to replace oil pan gasket , they say you should remove MOTOR MOUNT and part of the car FRAME, I have had several cars in my life , I used to change oil pan gasket easily by myself just by unscrewing oil pan bolts. crv is a good car , but what was the designer thinking when he designed location of oil pan for this car ?!! I want to look at his eyes and ask that question!

[@TheBillaro]

awesome, thanks! mine is a 98. 430 000 km on her. will check those points you mentioned. thanks

[@tomkathylindstrom7047]

I have two 1st gen CRVs. Both Red. One is AT, the other stick, so we named them Otto and Manuel. Anyways, I would add the upper control arm bushings in the front and lower control arm bushings in the rear. Manuel we have had 10 years, Otto we have had 6 years and they are pretty robust. Manuel had a burned valve for the previous owner and after I got it the vehicle was stolen and came back with a miss...I adjusted the valves and its been great. 219k on one, 239 on the other. MN vehicles...rust in wheel arches other than that they look pretty good.

[@tomkathylindstrom7047]

Oh and both cars had an issue where they would not start Rather than pay big bucks for cap, rotor whatever I just went to Ebay and got a complete distributor ---everything in one fell swoop for like $55. 10 minutes to swap them out and running great

[@hondaresource]

Awesome man! I'm glad to have you here

[@bassegoder]

sway bar inlink breaking and making a big plong noise almost gave me a heart attack. I was sweating until I discovered the problem..... a 20 euro problem.... This video comfirms im not the only one lol

[@victorialamport-brown8699]

Love your videos ! I live in Michigan and have a 99 CR V that’s got an engine light stuck on but my mechanic guy who works on cars out of his garage says it’s nothing to worry about ? Say what ? He says it’s got to do with gas tank ? Can ya help me ? I may as well go to reg shop have an inspection instead of guessing lol 😂

[@hondaresource]

Most auto parts stores will check the codes for free

[@gjcook86_205]

Not tightening up the gas cap enough after refilling. Click close at least 3x and after the next few times of refilling gas the engine light may turn off

[@Proloverful]

Valve stem seals, upper control arm, cv boots and sway bar bushings...

[@hondaresource]

Yep yep yep

[@Proloverful]

@@hondaresource Yea man sorry I hadn't reached back out to you about my questions all these months. I think it was instagram. But it was concerning the fork and shocks. But I'll get back to you on that.

[@user-zb2vx6ig5j]

I'm working on the mother in laws 2000 crv and I'm not having any luck finding the 56 tooth gear for the pass. Power mirror. Any help would be awesome,, finding a complete mirror to swap it out is almost impossible in Michigan.. your videos have saved me frustration and her $$$. Thank you.

[@hondaresource]

Only solution I would have is replace the mirror.

[@user-zb2vx6ig5j]

Found a replacement for it in the same faded red.. thank you for your time.

[@Motardebase.]

Thanks you man! I'm French and your video is very interesting ;)

[@hondaresource]

Thank you

[@christiancarter255]

I have a 2001 Honda CRV with 256K miles. Problem: Usually, when I accelerate to 50 MPH and above, there's an internal rumbling/knocking sound that seems to be coming from under the hood. I also feel some vibration. The problems greatly diminish or goes away completely when I let go of the gas but come back immediately as I accelerate again. The problems get worse as I accelerate more, as does the vibration. This problems usually do not present themselves until after I've driven my vehicle for 5 - 10 minutes. Also, they seem to be more likely when I've sustained around the same driving speed for a few minutes. Driving on flat or on inclined ground brings these problems out more than declined ground (though the problems are still noticeable during declined ground driving). Occasionally, while sustaining a certain speed, the problems will greatly diminish for a few seconds before starting right back up to where they had been. What the heck is going on?

[@hondaresource]

I'm not sure. Hard to say without having the vehicle here

[@feralone2350]

Change transmission oil as directed for your year crv. Trans Shudder happens because of old oil.

[@nobodynoone2500]

Thats generally an auto trans issue.

[@brandonb88]

I just bought a 99 awd manual today and the power locks and the clock don’t work lol.. damn 😂

[@bethlemmon]

Watch this just to get an idea of what I should do with my 98 CRV. I have put a lot of money into it when I bought it in 2018 a lot of things went wrong with it since then. Too long of a list but I got the timing belt change it has a new radiator new sway bars one axle is fixed the other needs fixing had a refurbished gasket put in about 1 1/2 2 years ago. I live in Missouri . I found out today that my transmission is shot so it has to be replaced. The automotive place quoted me $2,900 to fix it I know labor's cost of parts are high right now anyway. It uses oil and I've had the oil pan gasket repaired within the last 3 or 4 months. And there's no other leak it's just using oil which just started like this past year. I don't know anybody or have any help with money to get it fixed so I'm trying to figure out if it's worth keeping and not just trying to go buy another vehicle. Which I don't want to car payment and I'm sure it was going to be a high car payment so anyway just let me know what you think thank you appreciate it

[@richgo5328]

I FIXED MY HONDA 2001 thanks to this MAN!

[@hondaresource]

yes absolutely remove the freon first!

[@richgo5328]

@@hondaresource WOAH!!! I was just gonna say SCREW IT but woah you saved my ass!!!

[@richgo5328]

I GOT CODE P1361 I researched it and it’s coming out to a speed sensor. What do you say about the code? Please help

[@tjvaichus]

I solved the water leak on the passenger side of my 98 crv but can’t figure out the driver side? Every time it rains the carpet is wet. Spent hours running a hose over it and looking at every possible location but can’t find where it’s coming in. The drains are perfectly clear and flowing

[@StayFaithful7]

Okay I have some questions about these... In July 2024, how much would you say an LX first gen cost? How many miles will the LX's last? Are there any issues or things that I need to look out for when buying one? Would you say that the majority of the first gen LX's came in manuals? (I want a manual one) Lastly, I really realy enjoy these videos thank you

[@hondaresource]

Price varies by region and I would say that here in Southeast US there are way more autos than manuals. The main things I would look out for is oil leaks and ball joints. If you do buy an auto make sure it shifts good before you purchase it.

[@StayFaithful7]

@@hondaresource Thank you very much.

[@mikkokuorttinen3113]

Hi, you've got a great collection videos here! Thank for sharing them with the public! I have fuel injector leaking to the intake side of the engine on my -99 CR-V. Have you got ideas how to make it stop? I've already bought and replaced a new injector o-ring, but it did solve the issue

[@hondaresource]

replace the injectors.

[@jimjones1678]

Is oil burning and smoking out the exhaust common on these engines?

[@wickedeagans]

Man, pretty happy came across your channel. Just subbed. Thanks for good info on crvs. I’m looking at getting a metal building built for couple my Honda’s. Wanting to get two post lift put in it. Love seeing how you have that shelf u built goin across in the back. Can please do a video on your garage and how the size works for u and ceiling roof with ur post lift. Thanks man

[@hondaresource]

I can probably do something like that

[@michaeldean5878]

My mom has a automatic AWD 2001 CRV with 226k miles that I’m helping maintain for her. Between 27-40 mph it makes a grinding noise (the whole car vibrates a little bit and the coins in the tray rattle) when going the speed limit but when I go to accelerate it hesitates and it grinds harder for a split second then downshifts and starts to accelerate again, when I press the overdrive off button none of this happens though. I’ve already replaced the transmission fluid about 2 years ago and it didn’t grind as often but it still grinds, it’s like the car is stuck in a gear. The car is still drivable and it’s been like this since shortly after we got it 4 years ago. Any idea what could be done to fix this? Just wondering if it’s a part or a whole transmission that would be needed

[@Chazisus]

Did you ever figure this out? I have to do the overdrive trick as well. It’s usually around 1000-1300 rpm the whole car rattles/ shakes. I’m stumped as well

[@shUt_Awp]

@@Chazisus I have not figured it out, we just kinda deal with it. But I have noticed lately the transmission is being hesitant to shift into a higher gear now sometimes I’m thinking maybe the transmission needs a rebuild or maybe something with the torque converter, I don’t know because I’m not too knowledgeable on those things

[@pwoc94110]

I have 2001 1st generation CRV LX AWD Automatic with 135,000 miles on it, which I bought new in 2001. It’s in pretty good shape. I love this car. I’m hoping to keep it running as long as I do. Thanks for all your great advice. Have you run into issues with vibration sounds coming from the catalytic converter?

[@hondaresource]

Heat shields rusting off?

[@pwoc94110]

@@hondaresource no, internal. It causes sort of a “blasting” sound maybe coming out of the exhaust pipe. We (one of my mechanics, although sometimes I do the work myself) think it’s the Catalytic Converter.

[@hondaresource]

@@pwoc94110 I've seen them melt and pieces break loose

[@jenniferhillyer8894]

Need help! My 1999 Honda CR-V only slightly rear-ended a car. Initially, when I visited the storage lot where it was towed bc I was sent to ER for exam the car turned right over. Now car won't start-up sounds flooded- told a likely fuel pump problem from the impact. Then some guys said there's an actually an easy little known easy fix: In the back of the CR-V -somewhere- there's a button I can push that will reset fuel pump. Searched online- nada. Gotta get car out of tow lot. I'm a 70 yr old grandma on my daughter's KZbin acct asking needing advice ASAP. THANKS!!

[@hondaresource]

There's no such thing on a Honda.

[@el-nada4023]

Love your videos keep up the good work.... please i have a question for a first time car buyer who is still learning to drive which do you advise on getting the first or second CRV will really appreciate your feedback

[@mfavrow540]

Rear quarter panel ls are where they rust usually

[@hondaresource]

We don't have rust here so I Don't usually see any.

[@antoinebernard8527]

rear suspension opening and distributor seal

[@carlosmauras860]

I have the same issue like it pops out a little bit from the differential . Idk how to get that fixed .

[@spilltheteaalloverme8810]

The pic in the thumbnail looks just like mine- but mines lifed, love it

[@hondaresource]

The one in the thumbnail is lifted on OME springs. it has 235/75/15 mud tires.

[@turbodc2002]

Good video, lots of info, im having the issue when driving and i turn i would have to return it to center myself rather than it returning when you let go of the S. wheel, much worst in the highway, hence i've done 2 full wheel alignments but still cant figure it out for the of me.

[@hondaresource]

I haven't seen an issue like that with any here.

[@phaxiong95]

Yeah Philip I did have 01 voodoo blue 5spd 158k miles but eats gas like dragon because rpm high at high speed 3 1/2 rom

[@petepete3389]

Window regulator especially driver side, door lock actuator, ignition coil/ igniter, upper control arms.

[@hondaresource]

I've definitely seen all of those

[@catchthefire4Him]

I have a 97 and its shuts off randomly while driving on the highway. Everything on the dash lights up then the engine turns back on but it will not go forward after only in reverse. Mechanic says to sell it as I have it towed but once he gets it to his lot its working again with no lights on the dash and no codes show up on his reader. He cant figure out what it is and says it will cost me moee than its worth to figure out. Do you have any sugestions? It only has 110,000 miles.

[@hondaresource]

I have pondered over this for several days and I can't come up with a legitimate resolution.

[@catchthefire4Him]

Update. We flushed the transmission fluid, installed a new shift solenoid and a used computer from another RD1. Its now running better than before.

[@robertsinton7435]

I have a Honda CR-V 2001 in New Zealand and they seem to get roof rust under the rubber channels and also around the rear mudguards the one I have for parts has rust in the same areas.

[@plumkey197]

How about that dreadful ignition switch? I've known for the past year the switch needed replacing, but the problem has morphed into a crank/no start. None of the dash lights come on when key is turned to run or start. There are no fuses blown. The two phillips head screws that hold the plastic contacts/wiring have cammed out on me, so I'm getting ready to dremmel a slot in the breakaway bolt so I can just remove the entire assembly. These screws bring me back to when I had the front of the engine disected for timing belt, water pump, CFS, torque mount and motor mount, and a bunch of other repairs. Someone went crazy with the loctite and used the stuff on fasteners that did not require it, causing me ro round off several bolts, incl. the timing cover and the timing belt tensioner. That tensioner bolt was no joke and required extended work-around, since there wasn't enough room to use the proper "rounded bolt remover" and that bolt being gr. 8 and extremely hard; using a cut off wheel on a dremmel was slow-going. when the bolt finally came out, the loctite had been applied to the entire threaded section. That experience was worse than the crank bolt!!! I remember you answering several questions for me, and on the same day I typed them. Hard to forget about that, since you put me on the right track. I later discovered that the exhaust cam was off by one tooth. I became highly proficient in tearing that B-20 down in record time. The CRV has been running excellent and no further issues until this ignition switch. The first symptoms including the engine dying out at the worst possible time and loss of power steering during the event. It would always restart like nothing happened, and it was random - 2-3 times a month. I was able to duplicate the problem by wiggling the wires and turning the key ever so slightly. Keep up the good work and I hope you and your family are doing well.

[@lifewithbezlee9224]

What controls the voltage on the alternator? Ecu or internal regulator

[@dromaticmx623]

Thanks man. Helpful video

[@Aryahmmr]

Whats the difference between the various trims (LX, EX, SE)? I have a 2000 CRV but can't figure out which trim it is.

[@Juan_T1]

From what I know SE model is the fully loaded one Like all the black bumpers and plastics are painted to match the rest of the crv

[@hondaresource]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJ60eYaPq8mbn8k I cover the differences in the trims in this video

[@vgsrule4ever]

If your handles/mirrors are black it’s an LX. If your interior is leather it’s an SE. Otherwise you have an EX.

[@Aryahmmr]

thanks for the response. My sideview mirrors are same color as the exterior paint, and the interior door handles are chrome colored. I think it's an EX

[@vgsrule4ever]

@@Aryahmmr I meant like leather seats not interior handles haha. I think the chrome interior handles were an option/accessory. But yeah if your exterior handles/mirrors are painted and you have cloth seats it’s probably an EX

[@Todeswalzer1305]

Are parts for this model available online? I´m always worried about that while shopping for an older car.

[@Justinbieberiswack08]

You should see all the 1st gen crvs in Canada. They are all notorious for rusting on the back fenders ! About 9/10 I still see on the road have atleast one rusty back fender.

[@hondaresource]

I see a few from time to time with rust, but it's extremely rare

[@CL-ty6wp]

@@hondaresource 15-20 is what they last before rusted frames break, floor boards rotted ectt. Some have holes in wheel wells after 5 years. In Maine , so basically Canada lol

[@peterkalinak6780]

very true, I confirm with the experience with my crv. good job. keep rolling :)