honeywell 8148A main operating control replaced on boiler

honeywell 8148A main operating control circulator part of the control would not work .replaced with new one

[@arcticminer32]

Thanks for the descriptive video. Five years later I am using your advice on a boiler in Alaska.

[@arniegrote319]

Nice Job Steve, Marking the wires, Smart, Saves time, And using the crimp connector, Makes a good connection, I see a lot of wires wrapped around screws. Again Nice Job.

[@stevenlavimoniere]

Arnie Grote i like the connectors like you said it makes a better job

[@JohnDoe-zb6rx]

Hi Steve, love your channel, lots of valuable info. I have a WBV -04 Peerless Oil fired Boiler. It' a cold start, demand only, setup. 2 Taco, 3 zone valve control units. Two Taco Circulators, 3 zones on one, and two on the other. 5 zones total with room for one more.Separate Bock 32 gal oil fired hot water heater. I installed this about 6-7 years ago and have not had any problems since. An intermittent temp/ pressure gage went last winter and almost gave me a heart attack, gage pressure went to 40 Psi and then back and forth to 18psi .........? This year after cleaning and tuning up my units I fired up the boiler and turned up a couple on thermostats. A Honeywell L8148A1090 Aquastat came packaged with the boiler when a bought it. A few minutes after starting it up I noticed a melting plastic smell or fume coming from the top of Aquastat? I believe it was coming from the Transformer if that's what that coil wired plastic unit is on the top left hand corner of that unit? There's actually a clear plastic dried puddle on the top of the transformer metallic armature? I had a boiler tech come in who is someone that I know and when I started it up again, the smell started again and then went away. Honeywell has discontinued my Aquastat along with many others. It seems a recommended replacement is the L8148A"1017". I spoke to Honeywell tech support for hours and they told me they would not say or acknowledge that the "1017" unit would work for me despite their own Honeywell site having "A Cross-reference dated July , 2015 of last year saying that it would? They're pushing their new L7224U1002 Aquastat which is digital, and a universal, but has more bells and whistles than I need? I just want a simple control to replace my old one so I can move on. I realize my old unit had a fixed differential of 15 degrees where the 1017 has a fixed of 8 degrees, but I don't think that matters for my cold start, demand only, heating system? I apologize for this lengthy comment and inquiry, but if you could give me some advise on the best aqua-stat replacement for my system I would appreciate it greatly. If you need pics of my system I will be glad to send them. I am a retired General, and Carpenter Contracter and have/had worked hands on my entire life. Thank You, John

[@richardangelini7296]

Your videos are greatly appreciated.

[@eastcoastHVACtech]

Nice video, good tutorial of the control at the end for the newer guys in the trade.

[@stevenlavimoniere]

eastcoastHVACtech thanks for watching

[@phillipgroom9187]

Great video,you know your stuff.Thanks for the video and the time you put in recording and editing them.

[@stevenlavimoniere]

Phillip Groom thanks for the support

[@harrydickson4575]

Fantastic video Steve Great stuff !!!!

[@stevenlavimoniere]

Harry Dickson thanks for watching harry

[@iamskippy1976]

when that probe goes into that brass fitting what keeps the water from coming out? I have to change mine on a gas fired boiler

[@jpatt1000]

Does the boiler temp sensing bulb sit in a well so you don't have to drain the boiler? I can flex the circuit board to get my circulator to run so I'm thinking I just have a bad solder joint. Just don't want to get scalded pulling the relay out when I shouldn't!

[@ziyadd2835]

Hi Steve how are you doing hope everything is going well with you and your family this ziyad calling from Canada 🇨🇦 just a question iam a general contractor and i do my hvac work This a bolier question the honeywell aquastat box it works only if you push your hand on the damper plug up or down kind of moving it around then the boiler work the way it should be so do you think the damer plug is not good the pins or the plug it self on the aquastat it self So when you move around the plug on the aquastat then the intire operation works good 1 the draft vent opens 2 the flam is on 3 the gas line opnes 4 then it fires 🔥 So not sure the aquastat it does all the steps only if you move the plug on the aquastat Thank you you stev By the way you are the best tec I really mean it Thank you for all the hard work you do on line

[@jhhvacplumbing1944]

Nice work again Steve

[@stevenlavimoniere]

justin henning thanks justin

[@FcsstlHeatingCoolingPlumbing]

Looks like it was your first time there, hopefully you added another repeat customer to your books.

[@stevenlavimoniere]

First Choice Service LLC ( StL MO) i am sure i will be back for something else in the future

[@MyJubilation]

When the air vent on top of the oil fired boiler spewed water on the aquastat box, it caused it to start giving off a dark gray smoke. After almost 2 weeks it's still smoking when I turn on the boiler. Can I fix it, or must I replace it? Shouldn't it be dried enough to operate, or can the smoke burn off without turning into fire hazard?

[@hllywd964]

very informative, nice job!

[@stevenlavimoniere]

hllywd964 thanks hollywood

[@gekkedirkie]

Nice camera angle, good job..

[@stevenlavimoniere]

gekkedirkie thanks for watching

[@bbm8873417]

Good job Steve

[@stevenlavimoniere]

Bernard Sobbe thanks for watching

[@mathewbetcher9663]

+1 do you use he heat conductive compound stuff on the probe? It's supposed to make it more accurate. When I have it I use it, never really noticed a difference though

[@stevenlavimoniere]

M Bet i never use that stuff i guess it would not hurt . its just never seez

[@paulroggemann1017]

@@stevenlavimoniere I believe it is a thermal conductive paste. Commonly used on heat sinks to improve thermal conductivity.

[@whommee]

good vid ,,, just curious, do you think it was some of the contacts on the relay fried?

[@stevenlavimoniere]

nate something in the control on the circulator leg was not allowing voltage to flow to circulator so the control was replaced

[@f.j.g.j.6563]

Me gustan tus vídeos aunque no hablo inglés bueno muy poquito!

[@SurferBoy690]

I noticed in the video that the old Aquastat was the 1090 version of the L8148A (from the side sticker), but you replaced it with the 1017 version. As far as I can tell the 1090 has a fixed 15 degree differential and the 1017 has a fixed 8 degree differential. What is the consequence of this? Let's say both Aquastats were set to 180 degrees. Does that mean that the 1090 would go to 180, turn off the burner, and then restart the burner when the temperature dropped to 165, but the 1017 would go to 180, turn off the burner, and restart the burner at 172? Am I understanding this correctly? Or does this differential refer to something else? Every explanation I've read online has to do with Hi-Lo Aquastats with domestic hot water. Can anyone help me understand what the differential means here for this high-limit-only Aquastat? And if my understanding is correct, what would be the consequence for the boiler now having shorter, more frequent burns?

[@dieselhater]

Hope your cold gets better

[@stevenlavimoniere]

Al Gregory its getting better

[@nelsondonnell1393]

I've noticed that in all of your videos on replacing the Aquastat Relay that I've viewed, you never put any thermal heat paste on the sensing probe, why's that? Doesn't the manufacturer of the relay recommend that the thermal paste be used on the probe any longer?

[@Brad1237202]

Nice job Steven! If you could do a video and and your opinion on the propane/natural gas TracPipe.

[@stevenlavimoniere]

Brad1237202 trac pipe is not something i usually install,,, i like black pipe better for gas . i guess it has its place .if you have a long run up into a actic . it would save time .but it has to be grounded. because of lighting stricks

[@guzman9011]

Mines makes a loud buzzing sound 24/7 is that normal?

[@stevenlavimoniere]

+noe name replace the control it had a bad transformer ,in it

[@tiaandbuster]

great video steve . I noticed you never use anti - seize on the sensor tube . I always use it on every new install and replacement . i carry a bottle of anti - seize with me all the time . it's just a habbit I got into years ago . I just find it makes a much better contact with the temperature in the boiler . it seems it makes the temperature more accurate to me . but that's just my opinion . we all have our own ways of doing things that works for us . just curious . nice job again buddy ........ I see you're still fighting that cold , I know how you feel , I have had pneumonia now for 2 weeks . it really saps the shit out of you ....... take care ........

[@stevenlavimoniere]

Lloyd .Haight i probley should use the antiseez i just never do .i make sure the probe is into well all the way ,i never have a problem with it all the ones i replace never have any never seez on them eather right from the factory .. so i guess its not that important .. if the boiler manufature do not use it

[@Bob.W.]

You work when sick. Often.