Hornby Battle of Britain Class "Spitfire": Body and Motor Replacement.

[@peternorris6438]

Another great repair with all the replacement parts it is as good as new

[@stephendavies6949]

Well, that vintage Spamcan will be the most risk-free purchase on the internet. It was fascinating to see how you solved the shorting problem. Thanks for another excellent video.

[@HowardLeVert]

400mA is in the region of some of the old Hornby-Dublo motors (especially under load): I am always amazed at how little current modern motors draw. I've seen ceramic capacitors develop shorts - I've been caught out by them in some amplifiers before now.

[@playpaulbee]

Thanks again for this, I have a couple of loco's that will improve no end with one of these motors, I tried a CD motor in an older Lima Class 37 and it's excellent, I really appreciate the work you put in on these videos.

[@cbrooks122000]

I have had one of those capacitors go short circuit on a brand new Hornby loco, so not usual. The only thing I might add, is that capacitor looks like a multilayer ceramic one used for 5 volt electronic circuits so it might be the wrong voltage type which would explain it failing.

[@marcdempsey5850]

Hi Bill, another great video of a wonderful upgrade to this vintage model. New body and total update to the motor. Great work as always, have good Easter wishing you all best, Marc from Leighton Buzzard

[@grahamlane1313]

Hi bill i bet if the supressior was shorting when you fitted to new motor perhaps it was the supressior on the old motor that was causing old motor to run lumpy

[@JerseyBill-x9r]

I'll bet that the capacitor was damaged during the original meltdown incident and accounted for some of the 400 to 500 milliamps of the old motor. I would buy it if not for the shipping cost to get it to the states. Great video as usual, I wish everyone used the front vantage point for videoing repairs.

[@bigmac60]

Nice Job Bill 👍

[@_RandomPea]

How timely, i had spitfire out running on my latest video. One of the best runners but yes to be honest a noisy one but i dont mind. After running for a while it did develop a bit of a rubbing somewhere so ill need to fix that at some point. I jusy found it amazing how it is one of thr best runners, considering its age and other newer models struggle.

[@OOElectronics]

Interesting about the suppressor. If you still have the blue one, be interesting to know if it acts as a short on a loco fitted with an X03/4. 🤔

[@gunguy6530]

that was another battle of Britain for you, Bill 😂😂😂 that mk1 Spitfire definitely went the battle now you fixed and upgraded the spitfire to mk IV it's a pearler lol great video

[@southernrailway00]

Hi bill lovely video I was wondering if I could get a link or product number for that motor replacement many thanks for this great content

[@petersmith4455]

hi Bill, another great video for friday evening while playing with my Booster electric loco.

[@steveambler7985]

Great video as usual keep it up 😊

[@57bigjon]

Hi Bill great vids keep up the good work 2 questions if you dont mind, do you lay your track directly on the polystyrene, and would the amp meters work the same with dcc. Thanks

[@oobill]

Track is laid directly onto polystyrene yes. These particular amp meters are DC only and won't work with DCC. You can buy ones for DCC though but expect to pay a lot more money.

[@tonydaly2642]

Hi Bill. Can I ask you what you use in your sonic cleaner ? Tony.

[@stuartburton1167]

Sometimes old wire can get an invisible layer of tarnish on it. This can only be shifted with an active flux like a plumbers flux. Unfortunately this unless thoroughly cleaned turns green and horrible.

[@oobill]

Yup. I've encountered it often enough now to realise that all old wires should just be replaced as a matter of course.

[@johngibson4641]

Hi Bill ,, so where do I look in you page to buy this from you. Also do you sell to people overseas like to me here in Australia. I certainly dont mind paying the postage to here in oz as i have bought a lot of train bits for the UK for it is sometimes cheaper to buy from the UK than what it is to buy here in oz. Ok so you mentioned your coffee shop site somwhere on your page so where would that be ? I found a part on your page where lots of people buying you beers i mean its not exactly coffee but its close I suppose haha. I bought one of these exact locos from a local bloke here in newcastle that said he bought it in England and bought it here with him when he moved here. It was a goer but a really slow runner and on pull down i found the bearings had a choke hold as the grease or oil had dried up and were barely moving. All freed up and put back together and runs like a cracker. A heads up on the one you have for sale would be great. Cheers from John in Australia.

[@andrewduke1489]

Nice work

[@andrewclegg6541]

Do you not use solder flux when soldering ?

[@oobill]

Not for electrical soldering although the solder does have a flux core. I use flux if I need to solder two pieces of metal together though to help the solder get where it needs to.

[@stuartburton1167]

The problem using active fluxes rather than passive fluxes like Rosin is the cleaning up afterwards. Unless every bit of active flux is removed it continues to work leaving you with a horrible green mess and dissolved metal and plastic. You can get waterbased no clean fluxes for printed circuit boards but they aren't cheap and tend to need a fair bit of heat to work properly. Best is flux core wire solder keep your iron tip spotless and get in and out quickly.

[@andrewclegg6541]

I used to be a radio and tv engineer. Any new components fitted we scraped the parts legs and applied flux to let the solder flow better. I still use the old type lead solder which contains flux. I have not used the new type solder.@@stuartburton1167

[@lloydscentralstation1245]

Another one brought back back from the brink

[@stuart-bland]

Hi Bill, I have watched a lot of your videos and recently rewatched a good few of the ringfield videos, Hornby and Lima, as I want to service my Lima GWR King. I've been hoping you'd say what grit sandpaper you're using to smooth out the gears but you never do! Please can you enlighten me? Many thanks, Stuart.

[@asleeds]

I use 600 grit wet and dry paper when doing my gears. Only apply very light pressure.

[@stuart-bland]

@@asleeds Oh wow, a lower grit than I was anticipating. Do you utilise the wet nature? I've used wet/dry paper plenty of times, just never with model trains. It makes such sense though, the gears are noisy!

[@oobill]

@@stuart-bland I use P2000 grit. You want it to be very fine grit.

[@stuart-bland]

@@oobill Perfect, that's what I had in mind but thought I'd ask anyway. Thanks for letting me know.

[@ModelRailwayShed]

Another spam can saved 👍

[@warbirdgamer]

Use the damaged body for scenery , have it rusted ready for srap