Hornby class 31. Modifying the bogies and wheels for better dcc running.

[@anearbytown]

I was delighted to see this video having suffered the same problem. I had spent hours looking for wiring faults that didn't exist. I have a Black 5 Class '45116' Hornby code R338TTS that looks similar to the one in the video. Looking at the bogies on mine, the pick up is taken via a fine sprung metal plate touching the inside of the flange. Putting a tape on the flange would interfere with the power take off so I needed another solution. My brainwave was to paint the very edge of the flange with nail varnish. This kept clear of the power take off but would insulate between the critical parts on the points. I used an attractive pink nail polish but any colour would do. Once the loco is on the track the colour cannot be easily seen. The bogies do not have the flaring problem shown in the video so no further work was needed. The whole process avoided any disassembly. I expect the varnish to be fairly durable but time will tell. Although it was a success I didn't get it right first time. One of the bogie sets just free wheeled and I assumed that the power was picked up from the drive bogie set rather than both. I was a bit too enthusiastic when applying the varnish on the free wheeling bogie set. Some acetone soon took off the fresh varnish so I could have another go but confined the application to just the edges.

[@johnbill9201]

Another great video thanks for sharing Dan, I'm sticking with my old early Hornby 31's and my Airfix, Lima models, Ktf J

[@jackhstproductions649]

Thanks for this video. I've worked out a non permanent solution to this which involves using a paper clip bent into wire, clipped over the side of the bogies to add tension to the back to stop the plastic from incorrectly bending apart. They just look like sand pipes and are barely noticeable

[@DugmerJunction]

Interesting enough I have just had to make the same mod to one of my Class 50’s. The bogie frames seem to have spread at the rear. I didn’t need to add the insulation tape as shorting wasn’t an issue but where the frame was spread the wheel/gear alignment meant there was gear slip and not all where engaging. Thanks for the help.

[@anearbytown]

Oops I put the wrong loco description below. It was a Class 31 Diesel electric D5551 Hornby ref R3592TTS.

[@kitchenhamfarm]

Had similar problem with bogies spaying out used a thin steel wire with bends at each end no need to glue , didn't realise about wheels shorting on peco point maybe mod to bogies fix that issue too , but hornby's class 31 comes with it issues- mazak ,lights, bogies, fan list goes on but saying that one of my fav locos, great video ................tony

[@roberthiorns7584]

Nice mod and like you railway 😀 👍

[@ciaranburke3243]

Thanks this will hopefully sort the poor running of my dcr 31 👍

[@peteshoulders1]

very neat will do this on my big locos as I have he same issue in G 1

[@johnboughton7451]

Have liked & subscribed

[@mattlund8170]

That's great 👍 I have the similar thing on mine, did you have to completely strip the wheels I.e take them off from the shank?

[@cravensdmufan4449]

An excellent tutorial. Though I haven't had short circuits, the bogies on my 31s do bow outwards so I will try the brass rod. Many thanks for the tip. I really like your 31 425 with the plated over headcode - it looks superb. Is it a detailed / re-sprayed model? Cheers. Vivian.

[@NathanielKempson]

My Railroad range class 31 shorts some of my points too. But its not the backs of the wheels doing it, its the tread of the wheels being to damn big. No idea what to do to fix it.

[@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway]

Hi Dan. Having recently purchased a Hornby class 31 I did notice the bogie issue. I haven't yet installed a decoder to check it's running. I found this video to be an excellent idea but the sound of the running locomotives over powered your voice which was a shame also if at least one axial was shown at normal speed would have been really useful but thanks all the same