Hotend explained and how to properly change the nozzle on a 3D printer

[@oviwan42]

April 2019. Found the first Video shorter than 45 minutes which explains everthing you need to know! Great!!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, highly appreciated. Sadly, you're right, which was one of the main reason why I wanted to do my own "short" take on it. I only regret not mentioning that the PTFE tube should be pushed in completely as far as it will go, otherwhise it might cause issues as well.

[@VAKUL-DC]

The best video about hot ends. Thank you printing a larger scale model.

[@t1mmy13]

Ahh this video is such a breath of fresh air. Clear illustrations, well paced and not 30 minutes long. I've begun getting some unexplainable skipping issues with my extruder and I think it's time to give it a good clean and change the nozzel and ptfe tube, now I feel confident I won't mess it up :) Oh and that huge 3d printed hotend, 10/10.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you and good luck with the clean up :) I was terrified doing it the first time, and that's what inspired this video. Let me know if you'll have any issues!

[@neosinan1]

My hotend was clogged and I knew I had to disassemble it,clean it and reassemble it. This really helped me with reassemble while all other videos and instructions was garbage. I need simple guide I just bought this thing. Thank you this video.

[@HobbyHoarder]

I'm very happy to hear it helped you out, thank you!

[@denzilcypret742]

The more I watch your channel, the more I learn. This time it was about changing the flow in Cura by going to the expert setting! I appreciate you so much!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Music to my ears, thank you :)

[@TinTalon]

OMG!!! Thank you. I have been struggling with issues with my printer and apparently i was having heat creep. I found other articles but they just tell you things and seem to always leave out some important info. This video is so outstanding.....I can going to share this with all my new 3d printer friends. I am very new to 3d printer but not afraid to rip things apart to see out they are made...but sometimes i have issues putting them back together. lol This video so perfect for anybody new needing to understand some very small but very important details. I love the hot end cut away and the torque wrenches. After i get things put back together i am printing them out. Please keep making content like this.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, it's really great hearing how much you've liked it and it makes all the work worthwhile for me. Good luck with your printing, I'm sure you'll love it!

[@nismoskys]

Superb video, love the mock hot-end components enlarged and in different colors. Really helps visualize what's going on. Thank you!

[@Matt40403]

Great video. I've only been 3d printing for a couple months now and I changed my nozzle due to a clog from my own error. I had just started a new print and noticed that something was dripping down and then I saw the blob of filament in between like in the video. Broke my thermistor in the process of cleaning and had to take the whole thing apart to repair it. Thank you for a great informative video. Helped me discover my error.

[@HobbyHoarder]

That's all part of the process, I've broken a few cables as well while trying to clean the hotend. But now that you've taken it apart completely, you've learned the hardest part of 3D printing. It only gets easier now :)

[@bobwatson1895]

Best breakdown I've ever seen. It's clear you put alot of effort in the demonstrations and animations

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, I'm very happy to hear that!

[@jpcarel]

The best and most clear explanation I've ever seen on KZbin ! Congrats.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, happy to hear that :)

[@blake3871]

This is the most well prepared and explained video about hot ends. Good Job! I'm glad I found this first rather than swapping between various videos trying to find what I needed to know.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, it's always great hearing that!

[@HiltownJoe]

This is really well made. Your use of graphics and special made props really left no questions open.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, I really appreciate it.

[@abdullamasud4278]

I had to learn this step the hard way. Can't believe this didn't pop out on searches before. Amazing video!!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, I'm very happy to hear that!

[@isaactavares1767]

Congratulations. I’m putting together my first 3D Printer Kit. I’m a total newbie in these matters of 3D printing. I was wondering about the correct assembly of the nozzle, namely the spacing (if there must be one) between the nozzle and the heather block. Finally, someone explained it. Well done, and the idea of the cut model to explain is great. Thank you very much for your time explaining to the newbies like me, sir.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you and I'm happy to help! Good luck with putting your kit together, I'm sure you'll love it in the end.

[@SafetyTh1rd]

Just recently picked up my first 3D printer, thanks very much for making such an easy to understand video about how the hot end goes together and how to properly fit the nozzle.

[@cbaymac]

One of the best tutorials on KZbin. Thank you.

[@442jetmech]

You have a real gift for explaining, and thanks for printing the cutaway model!

[@JayGarces]

Thanks for creating this video! Your printed model of the hot end really helped me understand why I had to heat up the hot end before tightening the nozzle.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Happy to hear it helped you out!

[@MichaelTruly]

This is a tremendous video. I was able to actually figure out and solve my printing issue after having it broken out in such a clear and concise manner.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Very happy to hear that!

[@LampDoesVideogame]

I've always found that this exact explanation of how a hotend works is also the reason that when you're replacing your nozzle, you should replace your ptfe tubing as well. Esp on any direct drives where it's such a little amount. I've NEVER once replaced a nozzle, without replacing the ptfe tube, and had it work WELL.

[@roadstar499]

I had a big mess almost a s bad as you showed...lucky for me after 30 minutes i was able to break all the filament free... on my final tightening i only had my nozzle at 240 degrees... i ran a test and it seems to have no issues printing petg at 235... i do not print at over 240 anymore... this is an excellent video on how a hot end works... i also will keep my retractions down to 5mm or less for now on... all makes perfect sense...

[@HobbyHoarder]

The same thing happened to me in my first few months of 3D printing. I got really annoyed that I didn't understand how the hotend works, so I did some research and that's how this video was created. I think you should be fine if you've tightened it at 240'C, even if you print over that temperature. The thermal expansion can't be that big of a factor once you're near those temperatures. As for the retractions, try and keep it as low as you can while still avoiding stringing or blobs on the surface.

[@roadstar499]

@@HobbyHoarder i have been printing a rc boat for 24 hours so far... hot end is not leaking from what i can see,but printing my Esun yellow Petg at 235 Degrees is showing a lot of stringing and leving blobs... print still should look fine after clean up...but Petg has been a constant pain in the butt for me... i use lastest cura... standard quality, .04 nozzle my retraction is 5mm, speeds are 30mms, print speed is 55...cooling fan is set at 50% any suggestions... i have a brand new ender 5 i upgrade to a capricorn bowden tube...thanks

[@danieltweddell5973]

Thanks for this great explanation. I think I finally know why my nozzle keeps clogging.

[@HobbyHoarder]

I really hope you'll be able to solve it now. In most cases, fitting the nozzle correctly fixes a lot of issues, although clogging can be trickier - it can also be caused by temperature, hotend design, gearing system, retraction settings or the filament itself.

[@dutchkimble1213]

Thank you. Very helpful to see the large models.

[@MrEdwardhartmann]

Great explanation. Once you learn this stuff, I am sure it becomes second nature, but the first time, it feels more like brain surgery. Your video took the mystery out of this task.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you Edward, much appreciated. I can't tell you how scared I was to even touch the hotend at the beginning, it seemed like a magical device.

[@xl000]

3 steps feel like brain surgery ?

[@010falcon]

I have seen two videos from your channel so far. And from these 2 videos. The question already come up. Why do you only have 1500 subrscribers. You deserve way more

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, that really means a lot. Well, I'm getting a steady growth, but I really should be uploading more often, I only have 12 videos so far, which I think is the main reason. I'm currently making a permanent filming space and I hope it will cut down on the production time.

[@xcloudx01alt]

Great video! Thank you very much. I got a new hotend and I was unsure how far inside the heatsink the ptfe tube goes. Then i realised i don't actually understand what the heck the heatsink even does. Your video really cleared it up. Cheers

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, I'm really happy to hear it helped you out!

[@algungonzalo]

Excellent explanation, I wish more people sees it!

[@JohnGwinner]

I can't upvote this enough. Never knew you had to leave a gap between the nozzle and the heatbreak (tube). This just explained a bunch of bad prints! (I had figured out what the problem was, but hit YT to figure out the right way to install it. This helped immensely. Turns out my parts didn't quite fit right either. I changed parts!

[@HobbyHoarder]

It makes me really happy hearing I've helped somebody. Thank you and great job on putting everything back together. One thing that I'm really sorry I didn't talk about more in the video: you must push the PTFE (bowden) tube as far in into the hotend as it will go, or it might create another gap and potential for a jam later on.

[@JohnGwinner]

@@HobbyHoarder Right! I figured that out. Your video was the other missing puzzle piece! Man, I wish someone made a 1.75mm brass brush so we could just ream out those tubes.

[@MilquetoastMan]

This video is amazing! No bullshit, straight to the point, and informative! Thank you!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, your comment really made my day.

[@cring0101]

Excellent ! This is a very good tutorial. Thx for your hard work, the blow up cut-away model tell everything very clean. thx.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, it's really great to hear that.

[@raymonschepers994]

Thank You very much my friend, this is one eazy understandable way to see what I was doing wrong All the time. Thanks to the XL component prints i did spot a thing or 2 that i will change my old method for immidiate. Good post!!!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Glad it helped!

[@Nifty-Stuff]

Brilliant video! Your huge cut-aways are incredible and super helpful!!!!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you Rob, it really means a lot to hear that.

[@waverley41]

This is genius- thanks for making this! I finally understand..

[@boldbearStudios]

Wow, great explanation. Thanks for all your effort!

[@mikecoleman4628]

Thanks for all the effort you put into this!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, I hope it was useful.

[@TBWOC]

This is the best video about this topic that I have ever seen!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you Hans, that means a lot.

[@markusallport1276]

There is more than one way to do something, but you think most 3D printer owners don't know how or when to change the nozzle properly. Most 3D printer owners are smarter than you may think, considering that the ones who are doing this as a hobby, side work or income, view it as an investment. The condescending tones of this video are startling. Thanks!

[@HobbyHoarder]

It was never meant to be condescending. As you say, many people learn by themselves, as did I. Then I thought why not make a video about it so that not everyone has to go through the entire learning process. I didn't know a lot of these stuff when I've gotten my first printer and other videos helped me learn a lot. This video was just a continuation of that. I'm sorry to hear it came across differently for you.

[@MoXXiS]

Lifesaving video!! Great job!! 👍

[@ColeRees]

Wow this was insanely helpful. This will hopefully solve my issue!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Glad it helped!

[@TheRasta25]

just the effort to teach us is amazing .... very clearn . thank you

[@HobbyHoarder]

It makes me really happy to hear that, thanks for dropping by!

[@christophertilley4297]

Thank you for this. This was extremely helpful!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, I'm very happy to hear that.

[@jankohler562]

What an excellent video! More like that plz

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you Jan, I'm happy you've liked it!

[@martyewise]

That was fantastic! Excellent explanation and demo with the model you created. Thanks!

[@Allenw154]

Good work! Love the format and detail.

[@justinwang7582]

great clip to explain hotend in a simple way

[@nithink94]

Thank you so much for the effort and giving the best explanation :)

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, it really means a lot to see comments like this.

[@andre267]

I never saw a better Explanation than this before. :) Maybe you can explain why my Bowden Hotend leaks every retraction a tiny bit of Plastic even with long and fast retractions? (I got a Bowden Tube that is 650mm long is this the Reason?) Hardware i use: e3D V6 Bowden 12V and e3D Titan Extruder and of course the Bowden Tube from e3D for 2.85mm Filament. ;)

[@HobbyHoarder]

Yeah, that is quite a long tube, but it shouldn't leak because of that. What retraction setting are you using? Does it leak at the top where the tube connects to the head of lower?

[@andre267]

Hobby Hoarder i retract with 5mm and 100mm/s and no it is not leasing there. It leaves just little dots that i have to coast a bit.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Andre S. Ah, ok. Yeah, that's normal to some degree. It only retracts the solid filament. What's already molten stays in the nozzle and slowly oozes out. As you've already discovered, coasting usually helps. Lowering the temp a bit could also help, because the filament is not so "runny" then.

[@KiR_3d]

Can this speed cause these leaks? I've heard that a filament can split inside the hot end if the speed and/or acceleration is too high. I use not more than 25mm/s for mine. Bowden ~250-300mm long, Titan extruder, Volcano V6, retract to 6mm. I'm sure you've managed this issue, just interesting to know :)

[@chiparooo]

Great explanation. I love that model too. Thanks for sharing!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you Dwight, that means a lot!

[@GearheadStew]

Excellent video and explanation! Thanks :)

[@metebalci]

Superb demonstration 👏

[@pallepirat]

keep up the Good Work, what a beautiful way too show it. Looking forward to more content 😎

[@HobbyHoarder]

pallepirat Thank you, it always makes me happy to hear that.

[@blisterbill8477]

Very clear instructions. Good visuals. Thanks

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, very happy to hear that.

[@KeesHessels]

Dude, great job. Well done.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, I'm really glad you've liked it.

[@anaemic]

Great advice! i wish you had carried on for a little bit longer to explain how to attach the extruder to the hot end! I have a Bowden style extruder and have no idea how the neck of the heat-sink i should be pushing my Teflon tubing deep (until it hits the heatblock)?

[@HobbyHoarder]

Sorry for the late reply. Yes, the tube should be pushed in as far as it will go. It will be much easier if you thoroughly clean everything inside the hotend first. I like to use pliers to hold the metal and then hot air gun to melt any plastic that's still inside. Then I use the 0,4 cleaning needle and scrape the plastic out while it's still soft.

[@ridgoro]

awesome video. you are awesome. thank you. I am trying to unscrew the heatbreak+heatsink from the heatblock, but they are really stuck. I had a plastic leak from the top of the heatblock. do you have any recommendations on how to fix this mess?

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you Rodrigo, I really appreciate it. I'm sorry to hear that. Here's what I would do: very gently try to take off the hotend from the printer. It's best if you can remove all the plastic parts until you're left with just the metal hotend. Then take either a hot air gun or a hairdryer, gently hold the hotend with pliers (or put it in a vise) and then heat up the melted plastic. You can use another pliers to remove the plastic once it gets soft enough. Just be extra careful around the wires, they're very fragile. Unscrewing the heatblock etc. will also be a lot easier when everything is hot. You'll have to take it apart and clean each piece individually (again, just heat it up and scrape away as much plastic as you can). Also, check that the PTFE tube is still ok. If you've been using it for a long time, now might be a good time to change that as well. Finally, assemble everything back together as I've shown in my video and don't forget to heat it to max. before you fully tigthen the nozzle. I hope that helps, good luck! I hate taking the hotend apart, but sometimes you don't have any other options and it gets easier with time.

[@ridgoro]

@@HobbyHoarder thank you very much for the advice. This is exactly what I planned on doing. I have already taken the nozzle off (I left it in nail polish remover overnight, and it helped a lot to remove the plastic) I just have trouble removing the rest of the hotend. But I think I will apply some heat. again, thank you very much!

[@Kevin_Reems]

Fantastically well done! Thank you!

[@DiegoTrapero]

Awesome video, love the v6 model!!!

[@lionelsamain2348]

I must say you have a funny accent, but your video was reaaaally well explained ! congrats, and thank you !

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, glad I could help and I'm still working on my accent :)

[@dalerbsr.5061]

wow, i really needed this video. Thanks for posting, awesome.

[@lapidations]

Why shouldn't the nozzle touch the heatblock? Thanks for the vídeo, it's awesome!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Watch the video at 3:40. You'll see what can happen if you tighten against the heatblock - you might be left with a gap between the nozzle and the heatbreak. Plastic will start oozing through that gap and it can create a huge blob over your hotend, which is very hard to clean.

[@lapidations]

Hobby Hoarder Thanks for the answer! I understand that, but what if I make sure that the heat break goes all the way in and touches the nozzle? Would there be any problem then?

[@HobbyHoarder]

Well, if you can really manage to eliminate the gap, then yeah, it would probably be fine for a while. I'd be a little worried about the heatbreak coming loose over time due to vibrations, because the nozzle wouldn't be pushing against it directly. But you're also not gaining anything, you're just making your life more difficult by not being able to easily check if your nozzle is tightened against the heatbreak correctly.

[@lapidations]

What I did was screwing in the nozzle all the way, then unturning half of a turn, then I screwed the heatbreak until the end. Then I assembled the rest of the hot end, unscrewed the nozzle a bit, put a tiny bit of thermal paste where the nozzle would touch the heat block, then I heated up the block to 230 and screwed the nozzle all the way in. It didn't completely touch the heat block, but the gap was so small (around 0,2mm or less) the thermal paste completely filled it. Long story short, it's working better than before, no more clogs. My whole idea was to transfer more heat to the nozzle through this method. I don't know if I was lucky or if it was actually a good idea.

[@DavidMulligan]

@@HobbyHoarder This might explain why I've been experiencing slowly degrading print quality. I tightened the nozzle to the heat block and backed it off a bit then tightened it hot. There very well may be a gap big enough to cause problems.

[@stephenlittle593]

Thank you so much. Excellent explanation

[@sladkisoha]

Great video. But please can someone explain why we should heat up nozzle for final tightening?

[@HobbyHoarder]

The metal components expand/shrink when heated. To compensate for this, it's suggested to tighten when everything is hot.

[@sladkisoha]

@@HobbyHoarder yeah right, and when it cools it cause some tension in thread, that's why it's difficult to unscrew cold components. Thanks man. It's been 4 years ago and you still answering questions, much appreciated😊

[@rezafaisal1244]

i apreciate your explaination, love this video

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you :)

[@bassam.2023]

Extremely helpful. Thanks 😀

[@carlosorozco3368]

Excellent explanation, i just have one question, why the gap between the nozzle and the heatblock is needed? Is it to let some pressure out?

[@HobbyHoarder]

The gap is there only to ensure that the nozzle is actually tightened against the heatbreak and not the heatblock itself.

[@scottlong360]

This video helped a lot. Thank you !!!

[@HobbyHoarder]

It's always great to hear that, thank you 😊

[@tboutelier]

Great video, very pedagogic! I have one question though, why does the nozzle need to be slightly separated from the heatblock? When I received my printer (Alfawise U30), the nozzle and heatblock where in contact and it was printing very well!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you! Well, if you tighten against the heatblock, you can't be sure that the nozzle is actually touching the heatbreak. Watch the video at 3:40 and you'll see what I mean. By leaving a small gap, you can be sure that the nozzle is pushing firmly against the heatbreak.

[@tboutelier]

@@HobbyHoarder Ok understood! I was not sure that it was the correct reason. Thanks a lot again!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Happy to help. I've learned it the hard way with a messy hotend a few times, so I tried to learn why and then I've made this video.

[@hamzicemir230]

Got a question, when heating up to 295°C the nozzle will expand in +z and the heatbreak will expand in -z axis (against each other while growing more length), wich means they will have more pressure against each other. But when it cools down to 210°C it will shrink and have less pressure and maybe a gap wich of course will leak by time. Is there something i do not understand because thats simple physics. I`ve learned to torque them cold about 4-6nm and when they heat up they will expand and seal against each other perfectly. That means it would be the total opposite way. If i`m wrong, please explain :) thanks in advance

[@HobbyHoarder]

I'm not sure if they mill the parts in some special way, but every hotend manufacturer that i know of recommends heating to maximum first and only then tightening it. This would be really interesting to look into, as it doesn't sound very logical (like you've said, it contracts once it cools down).

[@freddyviolato397]

Probably you have to torque them when hot because the heatblock, which is usually made out of aluminum, has a more thermal expansion than the nozzle and the heatbreak, thus at high temperatures tends to separate them. You can easily check this by screwing the nozzle at room temperature and tightening it a little. If you heat the hot end at maximum temperature the nozzle will be loose again!

[@Jesters3DTabletopGaming]

Brilliant explanation!!

[@chochisnager]

Sin duda, la mejor explicación que he visto del sistema de extrusión. Mil gracias.

[@Bartetmedia]

Excellent how to demo!

[@jean-francoiscarbonel6176]

Thanks and congratulations. Great job !

[@HobbyHoarder]

Thank you, glad you liked it!

[@juliebowen1705]

This is incredibly helpful! Thank you!11

[@_M_a_r_t_i_n_M]

Yeah, this is something I needed to painfully learn for myself. I really wish I had found this when first starting out.. That mockup cross-section of a hotend explains it in a way that no video of a dude wrenching apart a hotend and screwing it back together can truly explain in such intricacy.

[@HobbyHoarder]

I'm glad to hear you've liked it, thanks for dropping by!

[@choxxolate]

thanks for your explanation

[@HobbyHoarder]

You're very welcome, I'm happy you liked the video.

[@yosacfc]

Excellent video

[@speedseeder]

very nice demonstration

[@EDSKaR]

Really clear, thanks!

[@MrCantfoolowls]

why didnti watch it like an hour ago... i screwed up the heatbreak in my anet a8 and its all metal scraps. Well, thanks anyway for the great presentation. Cheers mate

[@HobbyHoarder]

Sorry to hear that, I hope you'll get it sorted out soon without costing you a leg to do it.

[@3DPActionFigures]

Nice presentation! Btw, how can we be sure that the top of the nozzle is completely flush/flash (sorry i don't know the right word ) with the bottom of the heatbreak? I mean, how can we be sure that neither the nozzle or the heatbreak is just stuck at some point, because of hardened plastic due to clogging or oozing, that may tell us that they are already flushed to each other but in fact are not.

[@HobbyHoarder]

Try to clean the inside of the nozzle/heatbreak as much as possible before assembling it together. If there's a tiny bit of plastic left, it will get squished out once you heat up the hotend to tighten it.

[@MonsterPartsRc]

Thank you for this video!! When you’re printing the benchy at the end, the way the nozzle is jumping across the model, is that Z-hop? (I’ve never used it so I don’t know)

[@HobbyHoarder]

Yep, you're right, that's Z hop. It really depends when to use it. It can prevent surface marks or nozzle hitting parts of the object while it's moving, but it can also increase stringing and leave small bumps behind.

[@maruben1]

Dear Many thanks for sharing! The trouble I have is a clodge between the heatbreak and the noozle. How can I solve it?

[@HobbyHoarder]

Carefuly remove the heatbreak and the heatsink and clean each one as best as you can (remove all the plastic). It will be much easier if you use a hot air gun, but be careful as it can get very hot. When you've cleaned everything, assemble it back together as I've shown in this video.

[@mikegrock1014]

What is a proper retraction setting for an Ender 3 to avoid clogs? I’m having A LOT of clogs lately. Thanks in advance!

[@HobbyHoarder]

There are various Ender 3 versions, but it you have the one with bowden extruder, I'd start with 5mm and go from there. For direct drive, 0.5mm is a good start. If it was working ok before, I'd try a different filament brand first, it might be just as simple as that. You could try printing a stringing test/tower with different retraction settings, that should get you really close.

[@TheEpicproboss]

Great Video!!

[@sr-de5nz]

White ptfe tube get soft when it touches the nozzle, restricting the filament flow@clog. Change it to genuine Capricorn XS tube that can handle high temperature.

[@tinkeringwithelectronics]

Well you made that easy. Thanks

[@certified-forklifter]

thank you for the good video

[@HobbyHoarder]

And thank you for replying, I value every comment.

[@certified-forklifter]

no problem, have a great day, thank you! PS: auch aus Deutschland? @@HobbyHoarder

[@HobbyHoarder]

Richtig, ich komme aus Bayern :)

[@SebastianRamirezH]

thanks for your explanation! I have an ender 5 and when I screw the nozzle, it touches the heat block. I do not see a gap as you said. Your example is for your specific printer or does it apply for any printer?

[@HobbyHoarder]

Yes, there has to be a gap. Most printers use a similar design for the printhead, including Ender, and there has to be a small gap above the nozzle (after you tighten it). If you've already printed a ton of stuff with it and you didn't see any leaks, then you might be lucky, but if you ever replace the nozzle, make sure to adjust the heatbreak as well.

[@badipaddress]

Very good info!

[@skylerhobbs7664]

Super helpful!

[@schogaia]

Does this mean that I have to remove the heat cartridge and the thermistor for every nozzle change? Otherwise I can't turn the heatblock because it would snag the cables? I'd really appreciate an answer to this question. Thanks a lot!

[@HobbyHoarder]

Not really. If you use a wrench to hold the heatblock in place, you can remove just the nozzle to replace it. It's a bit flimsy and you have to be careful not to break any of the wires, but you certainly don't have to take everything apart just to replace the nozzle. There was also a tool on Kickstarter a few years ago that let you replace the nozzle with just one hand. I forgot what it was called, but I'm sure you can still find it online somewhere.

[@schogaia]

@@HobbyHoarder thank you so much for your answer!

[@Know-Way]

Well done, thanks!

[@koyzumie]

Great video man! Wish I found this before a blob of death destroyed my first hotend

[@HobbyHoarder]

You have to experience that at least once :D

[@swannjie2858]

thank you very much, its v clear! helpful. :)

[@HobbyHoarder]

Glad it helped!

[@spaerodynamicdrones360vide7]

i seen one video where the youtuber left a gap between the nozzle and heat break and then heated up the hot end, push the bowden tube all the way in and then tightened the hot end to squeeze the bowden tube like a seal between nozzle and break…. is that not necessary? yours seem to but end to break. Also is the .5mm gap exact measurement for the nozzle or is that tolerance not too important?

[@HobbyHoarder]

It depends a little on the type of hotend used, but generally, the ptfe tube doesn't need a seal because the filament isn't hot enough to melt yet. The tube is there only to guide the filament further. No, the gap doesn't have to be exact, just that you can see that there is actually a gap there.

[@spaerodynamicdrones360vide7]

@@HobbyHoarder Thank-you for the fast reply!

[@dablet]

what retraction should i use for PLA marble filament?

[@HobbyHoarder]

That depends mostly on your printer. If you're having a hard time, there are retraction tests on Thingiverse, you can use them to find a good setting.

[@3D4Create]

It helps me a lot

[@HobbyHoarder]

That's great to hear, thanks for dropping by!

[@chloemcholoe3280]

why does the nozzle need to be 0.5mm away from the heatblock?

[@HobbyHoarder]

Because that's the only way to be sure that you have tightened the nozzle against the heatbreak and not the heatblock. Go to 3:30 in the video again to see what I mean.

[@KiR_3d]

Great viz! Thanks a lot!

[@francescovespa]

Need Help: i'd like to remove my noozle, but it seems it got stucked in the heatblock. I tried with pre heating the block o even cold temperature attempt, with sockets, wrenches and even vice grips. No success unluckily. furthemore now the noozle is smoother than before making every following attempts more difficult. Any advice? what should i do?

[@HobbyHoarder]

Put it back in the vice grip (the grip should hold the heatblock, nothing else) and then use a hot air gun to heat it up, that always works for me. I also use a hex socket, never a wrench. In the mean time, definitely order a new nozzle to replace this stripped one. I'd also suggest you completely dissasemble the hotend as well and put it back together. With all these twisting, it's quite likely that something else got loose, so it's better to be sure about it.