Battery Cable Making - Basics & How To Explained

[@HotRodHippie]

I failed to note that the insulation on Welding Cable vs Battery Cable (there are many kinds of battery cables also) do vary. Some Battery cables have better heat resistance and chemical resistance. As I said, I haven't had any issues over the years with using Welding Cable and anywhere the cables get close to heat I would use heat shielding whichever cable I chose. A few of the cables in this video were shielded with fiberglass heat shield sleeves. Just figured I should make that note since it slipped through in the editing process.

[@wahdefyahball]

I know this is EXTREMELY late but at 8:35, the 35/70 of the Anvils corresponds to square millimetres; the metric measurement of the cable. you can get AWG to sq.mm conversions online. If this was answered previously my apologies. Great videos!

[@charliewolf7500]

Nice job. I use the hydraulic crimper and tend not to 'Solder' anything on a vehicle, since I use a 800CCA+ battery with a huge parallel multi Ultra Capacitor bank, capable of thousands of amps. Imagine when things go wrong, how quickly the 'Solder' turns back to its liquid state. I use lower capacity reset-able breakers rater than fuses also.

[@wyattoneable]

Nice job with the editing, explanation and visuals. I'd be totally comfortable making my own cables after seeing this video.

[@MandicReally]

Doh, there is a Color Correction error at @8:08 where the footage is just flat and uncolored. Silly mistakes on a long video edit.

[@windward2818]

In general never have exposed connections, electronic modules, and bulkhead connectors underneath the car. In-line sealed connectors are okay but keep the pin count as small as possible and make sure the harness and the connection cannot move due to vibration. It is best to encase all wires and cables in plastic high temperature convoluted tubing. If you need a power cable to go through the firewall or other similar sheet metal divider just use a rubber grommet, feed the cable directly without any breaks. For automotive application only use tin plated copper lugs when making large power cables and always compression crimp the lugs. Use dual wall heat shrink to seal the lug to wire connection. Ideally use tin plated Marine boat cable (high stranded version) over welding cable.

[@lucky49362]

i know this is an older video, but over my years of hackery i have found that old cigar cutters are good for cutting hose,line,and stripping larger gauge wire without getting into the wire itself, cheers happy hotrodding

[@AlphaBobFloridaOverlord]

Great video - thanks for sharing your expertise (and your humility)! Hydraulic crimpers ROCK! Amp makes a line of terminal ends that are tin plated copper - they come in all size (of wire gauge and hole size). You are correct - you have to experimentally determine which die to use. And, I don’t close the die all the way, I’m probably using a die that is slightly undersized and crimp until almost closed and then rotate the terminal one facet in the squeezer and then recrimp in the same manner (i.e. almost, but not all the way closed). Terminals come out like artwork and work reliably on high performance aerobatic aircraft which get flown pretty hard. Again great work and I really enjoy your stuff!

[@HotRodHippie]

Thanks for the input the instructions on this one said it has a pressure bypass. So it won't close all the way anyway, it just reaches a point where it goes most of the way. like the idea of rotating it in the crimper and hitting it again. I do that with AC fittings in the hose crimper. I will take that advice. Thanks. 👍👍

[@CatCow97]

You mentioned a crimp that was labeled 35, that would match up for 2 AWG as the metric sourced wire of the same size would be 35 square millimeters. Handy chart of wire sizes I found on Google www.lexproducts.com/technical-help/wire-conversion/ Also love the anti-cheese shirt, I'm far from vegan and will fight for a good steak, but I can't stand cheese or most other milk products!

[@HotRodHippie]

I wondered if that was the case but hadn't taken the time to confirm it. Thank you very much for the information 👍👍

[@amundsen575]

with the hydraulic crimper you can always start out with the larger die and move down as needed, I also use 2:1, 3:1 and adhesive lined shrink tubing as needed

[@HotRodHippie]

That is a good idea of how to handle it. I've started noting inside the lid of the tool what dies go to what size. I just eyeballed the size of the die against the eyelet end and I lucked out on the first one. In the future I'll probably try your thought. 👍

[@mrturner69]

i prefer to just crimp, a good crimp is better than a good solder. just a note on systems where there is a constant draw (golf carts, electric forklifts, scissor lifts) crimp, do not solder. you can solder after but dont just solder. they get hot enough to melt solder which creates a poor connection and can lead to expensive repairs that can be avoided

[@HotRodHippie]

Interesting and logical input. Makes sense if the cables are going to continually run hot. I have not had a single issue doing so with cars however. If the softer Battery Terminal ends allow it I have crimped them after soldering in the past. However the ones I use lately don't crimp.

[@mrturner69]

@@HotRodHippie in a system with just a starter battery it shouldn't get hot enough to cause a problem. I've seen some pretty janky things that somehow still worked lol

[@HeathHxC]

Maybe I'm missing it, but where's the link for the sizing chart?

[@HotRodHippie]

You didn't miss it, I had trouble locatingt hem and it slipped my mind earlier. I added them to the Description but I will list them here two. They differ a little so it kind of falls to a judgement decision for you. I tend to err on the side of caution and go bigger usually. www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity info.waytekwire.com/blog/how-to-select-the-right-battery-cable-for-your-installation

[@tweake7175]

I dont normally do battery terminals. But my go to method is to crimp then solder. Normally use connectors that are open at both ends so you can solder the end which wicks solder up the cable.

[@HotRodHippie]

I can see benefit to that but I prefer to seal up the connection as much as possible.

[@tweake7175]

@@HotRodHippie thats what the solder is for. I have always found crimp pressure makes better connections and solder fills in any remaining gaps and seals it. That means crimp first solder 2nd which doesn't work with those type of connectors.

[@rustedhorsepower5132]

Is that actual battery cable or welding cable? I used welding cable on my chevelle, I wish I would've known about the solder slugs though, those are neat. Great video!

[@HotRodHippie]

It is welding cable. I noted that and explained some of the differences at the 2:30 mark. Those solder slugs really make the job better. Before I knew of them I used to ball up solder and shove it in there. Such a waste of time.

[@rustedhorsepower5132]

@@HotRodHippie sorry, I was watching the video while doing stuff, guess I missed that(welding cable). But yeah I could tell by the strands

[@xozindustries7451]

Hell yeah, vegan strong! Good info on the battery cable.

[@HotRodHippie]

Thank you 👍👍👍 🥕🌽🥦🥬🍎🍉

[@xozindustries7451]

What kind of battery bulk head fittings do you use?

[@HotRodHippie]

I'm using "Fastronix" ones off of Amazon. They are a little heftier than most of the ones I've seen on the market for a bit more current capability. Link: amzn.to/2LVm3aj

[@chicagomike6666]

Again--love your videos! I am in process of making a custom set of cables for an old Diesel CUCV I'm restoring. The starter cable from battery branches into two cables--a 2/0 and a 4/0--one to starter and one to main bus on the firewall---The cable starts from battery as a 2/0 and then branches in a "y" pattern. Is there a fitting for this??? I am using a 90 degree lug for the starter---but not sure how to splice the "y" from the main cable...thanks for any advice...

[@maciekm7953]

Full version is even better 👍 Thank You for great video.

[@HotRodHippie]

Thank you and thanks for commenting. 👍

[@alexreifschneider6709]

Nice clean work! Work to be proud of.

[@HotRodHippie]

Thank you very much. I appreciate it, truly.

[@ze_german2921]

On my car, I just tig welded 3/8th SS bolts to the cab and frame for ground. They will never rust. Also I have found 1/0 Stereo cable like from NVX is much better than welding cable. the strands are very thin which makes it extremely flexible.

[@HotRodHippie]

If you welded stainless to mild steel you negated the anti-corrosion factor. They will eventually rust. I’ve done it and will do it again, but I’m aware of that factor when I weld steel to stainless steel.

[@ClintonC1991]

I never would have thought about using welding wire

[@VideosByAl]

My most resent Batter Cable fit was for our 36 volt electric forklift. I did not know about the flux and solder plugs, so I just slathered on some flux paste and heated with a torch as I applied a bunch of solder. Great Video.

[@mrturner69]

you want to crimp for that kind of system due to the amp draw

[@VideosByAl]

Unfortunately the lugs provided were cast aluminum. Thus I filled it with solder. We have 2 electric forklifts and neither has over heated the plug, but I keep an eye out for discoloration.

[@mrturner69]

@@VideosByAl first signs will be melting of the cable insulation

[@davehaberman6191]

Wisconsin cheese is the best

[@HotRodHippie]

I wouldn't know. I haven't eaten the stuff in over 20 years.

[@davehaberman6191]

So sayeth the shirt LOL

[@agbhargihad7325]

You wasted your time with the solder.... Just properly crimp it...

[@HotRodHippie]

Why not solder? A good crimp will hold fine sure, but solder will only help. Also soldering will reduce the air trapped inside of the connection which could lead to corrosion. The only negative I see is it makes the cable slightly more rigid next to the terminal but I also factor in service slack to the cables so there isn't stress there. Can you back up the waste of time statement? Soldering takes 30 seconds and a slug that costs a few cents. I'm not building "good enough". I'm building high dollar custom cars usually. Why not take a few extra seconds and do a better job?

[@steveb4762]

@@HotRodHippie I carry NASA certification for wiring and harnesses and we never crimp a soldered connector. I can see your point, but the solder can actually crack and break when compressed.