How a 5ft Climber became 𝙒𝙤𝙧𝙡𝙙 𝘾𝙝𝙖𝙢𝙥𝙞𝙤𝙣 | Ai Mori

[@Syntax1963A]

Ai Mori denies gravity, I never seen anything like her, I never saw somebody climbing like she does, and she looks like a school girl with no muscles - it all looks so effortless but in fact it is so damn hard and most athletic male climbers would even fail. For me she is like a spider. Lover her. Thank you for the video.

[@BoulderingHighlights]

Thanks Johannes! Welcome to the channel :)

[@PS-nm8wk]

@@undeniablySomeGuy "this guy" happening to be Tomoa Narasaki

[@LetsChat]

Ai Mori is gonna be one scary powerhouse of a climber.

[@polkawillneverdie2159]

she already is :)

[@BoulderingHighlights]

She was amazing at national comps but I always wondered why she never went to ifsc events

[@morgydee]

@@BoulderingHighlights too young prolly

[@YukiStori]

@@BoulderingHighlights focusing on school

[@anthonyferrell1798]

She is making me fired just watching

[@emma5757]

as a short climber i love watching videos about Ai Mori and watching her comps to see how she does things

[@BoulderingHighlights]

She's an inspiration to all heights too

[@cloudGremlin]

Never been interested in rock climbing (though I have 2 long distance friends who are into it). For some reason a video about Ai Mori popped up on my dashboard and now I am three videos into watching this girl climb with the fascination of a dog watching a can opener

[@BoulderingHighlights]

Welcome cloud! Feel free to ask anything :)

[@fabiopalma4429]

Shes so amazing! She's exploring and trying all the possible moves to find and follow the most efficient way. She's a true boulder problem solver!

[@猫丸じいちゃん]

世界大会でも不利な課題を諦めないで挑戦する森ちゃんの ファンは沢山居るし一番盛り上がる

[@thompsonnoel]

I just discovered her. She is hypnotizing to watch.

[@JacobdelaRosa]

I got to watch her climb this summer at an event. So amazing to see her skills in person

[@joshuasmith6346]

Your lucky

[@redmephisto3461]

This woman is truly spectacular. 

[@morgydee]

you're highkey one of the GOATs of climbing KZbin rn

[@BoulderingHighlights]

Really? lol thanks though. What makes you think so

[@morgydee]

@@BoulderingHighlights solid analysis, consistent posting, genuine interest in comp climbing. On top of that providing IFSC clips even though you may get copyright strikes. It's good stuff, you're analysis of Ai Mori helped me win a local comp today.

[@inquisitvem6723]

Any climber that can beat Grossman has to be really good.

[@hq7706]

8:58 she actually used her left heel eventually not toe 0:48 she actually 1. grabbed higher with her right hand, 2. use bigger momentum 3. left hand more secured (pushing on the starting hold)

[@jonathanv6523]

Good analysis of Ai Mori! There's one point I'd like to disagree with and that is the statement that taller climbers suffer from barn door more than shorter climbers. Barn door happens commonly if your point of contacts against the wall are directly underneath each other in a vertical line and inability to create a wide base to counteract the barn door effect when transitioning to the next move. Taller climbers (which tend to equate to taller limbs) can create a base that's wider (using flagging etc.) than a shorter climber and therefore counteract barn door more effectively (not in every situation though). That's my understanding and personal observation and experience from the climbing gym.

[@BoulderingHighlights]

That's an interesting point thanks for bringing it up!

[@default7621]

both things are true. tall climbers have a much much higher moment of inertia, so when he says they "suffer from barn-door" it is really just saying that their body positioning has to be much more precise than shorter climbers. because the torque of gravity is so much higher, and usually they can't get the body position to apply more torque using their larger frame, and have to simply pull much harder to generate the same stabilizing torque. as you stated sometimes this is not the case, but for the most part, at the gym you will see tall climbers barn door when short climbers can just climb straight up. they are forced into a particular technique as a result of their size. the fact that ai mori doesn't have to be as precise with body position is precisely why she's such an incredible and unique climber. she is less able to reach for holds, but she has more options available in terms of body position, and she uses optimized body positions that would not be possible for a taller climber. the advantage of reach is very straightforward, but the advantage of being small can be very subtle.

[@gyateste6191]

I do have a no edge shoe. I'm quite a beginner so I do not have the skill to take full advantage out of their full potential. But the key difference between a no edge compared to an edge shoe is that you don't have to be as precise, since the no edge technology makes the shoe find the small footholds for you where as you need to find the foot hold for the edged shoe. Adam Ondra also said that a no edge shoe is are perfect for onsighting, since when you climb on the go and you only kind of know where the foot hold is, the show will make it easier for you than spending more time finding the correct foot hold with an edged shoe. that's the theory behind them at least. Great video btw!

[@ucbikecop]

Great narration and explanation, keep it up

[@Psalm11934]

She's not human, She's an AI (Mori)

[@Jan.Bouldering]

As for the no-edge-technology, I think it's not really a difference for standing on volumes. But for steep, slippery tiny footholds I definitely felt so. We currently have this slab in our gym, the footholds are really tiny, slippery and steep. I tried it with my La Sportiva Kubos and couldn't see a chance of standing on those, though this already is a good shoe (and the slab probably totally doable in the Kubo as well for a better climber). Then I switched to my La Sportiva Genius with no-edge-technology and it was a difference like day and night. Still tricky, but suddenly totally doable for me. I feel like the no-edge does its magic on steep, slopery footholds which don't have a real edge to stand on, but need more smearing, and I can't wait to try them out on real rock, I guess they'll do great there!

[@BoulderingHighlights]

Sick! Thanks for the insight 👍 So you prefer using no edge shoes on slopey footholds? How does it feel on positive but small footholds?

[@Jan.Bouldering]

@@BoulderingHighlights I also feel safer on positive small footholds with the Genius. On volumes I so far prefer my Kubo, but have to admit I haven't really done a direct comparison for that. And now thinking about it I should do that, and already have a fitting boulder in mind. In general I can definitely say I'm very happy with the genius, they step up my footwork-game compared to the Kubo, which I also like a lot.

[@MiguelClimbs]

Good to see your face bro! That's a pro studio setup! Excellent analysis, watched the whole vid 🙌

[@BoulderingHighlights]

It's just my bedroom haha 😄

[@blackangel1690]

Because she is a little ninja girl ! 😄

[@pedromendes6061]

You should make a video on sorato anraku I think he would be very interesting to break down

[@devratnasari]

Can’t believe i missed this video! Thanks a looot

[@BoulderingHighlights]

Welcome back devi :) KZbin being weird on my channel as usual haha best way is to put notifications on

[@devratnasari]

Thank you, and yes will do!

[@中山-o2c]

as someone who is relatively tall would this advice still work or is there a fundamental difference in how we should look at climbing and what techniques to use?

[@Tommy-yp4go]

Could listen to you all day long! Thanks :)

[@bakicci]

i found out she goes to my school after i casually saw her at the local climbing gym

[@ミハイル-s8k]

筑波大は学生アスリートの海外遠征や国内外の試合参加に一切の便宜をはかりません。休めば欠席扱いになり進級に影響がでます。彼ら筑波大生は学業、競技の双方に並々ならぬ努力で乗り越えているのです。競技だけに専念していればいい他大学の競技者とは違うのです。森選手にはこれからも成長と進化を期待します。

[@jesseceline8411]

Hello man, did you use no edge (especially futura) since then? What is your opinion? I keep hearing is very specialised but seeing Ai crush everything in them I'm questioning myself. I also tried them yesterday and I never feel so comfortable in climbing shoes so I might get them next month

[@BoulderingHighlights]

Yes is specialised so it's personal preference I believe. But I heard its the same shape as worn out shoes that have turned soft but with brand new sticky rubber

[@bolsachem]

love these shoes.

[@Prachtnelke]

Helpful thy :)

[@crystalding5589]

Love this!!!!❤🎉

[@BoulderingHighlights]

Thanks! What aspects did you like about this? I'm trying to improve my vids

[@crystalding5589]

@@BoulderingHighlights 1. You show your face alongside the climbing footage, which helps viewers connect with you. 2. You interact directly with the footage, draw and teach on top of it, making each lesson more concrete and applicable. 3. You speak articulately and precisely about techniques and accurately time your speaking with the footage so that we hear and see what you refer to at the same time, which again, solidifies the learning. 4. You pick a topic and storyline that is truly remarkable, in the most objective way: one of the shortest, most static climbers getting to the top of two disciplines in a sport that is all about locomotion and covering vast, risky distances quickly. Almost unthinkable, and you break down solid reasons as to why. 5. My "constructive criticism" is that I think you're wrong about advanced climbers not needing your content. Though I've just been climbing for a few months and am literally the most beginner of beginners, I strongly believe from learning other artistic, sporting, and high-skill disciplines - that a piece of advice is NEVER too basic if you ask yourself, "ok, so I know I KNOW this, but do I apply it? And if I apply it, do I apply it 100% of the time, in 100% of circumstances? And if I do apply it 100% of the time, can I teach it? And if I can teach it, can I teach it with excellence 100% of the time, in 100% of circumstances, to anyone? I think the root of excellence is to learn and re-learn from the same basic advice over and over again, seeing it new lights used in different ways. To me that's the pure joy of the learning process, especially in climbing. For example, COG in BOS, triangles, securing weight shift and best weight distribution before moving BOS...everyone "knows" this, and a lot of people already "do it". Since I love technique, I can apply these on easy climbs even with little experience. But to see Ai Mori do it when you know how tough her terrain is and just how short she is compared to the competition, and get your analysis on it real time, it's just that you see what you "know" applied on such a different level, to the point where you ask yourself, "did I even know it in the first place"? Can I "know it as well as she does, in every sense? Anyways, now I'm rambling because this stuff is so interesting to me. Keep up the good work!

[@crystalding5589]

In addition, the effectiveness of your storytelling with the footage, got me for the first time doing my own analysis inspired by what I saw here: what are the OTHER subtle things she does to gain extra "effective height and reach" on the wall? Looking closely, I can see just how much she is reaching for every position, after already perfecting her body angle, position and technique. Her toes are barely on the footholds, and sometimes she can only reach the handholds by a fingerpad or two. I saw once that she agressively internally rotates her wrist to get purchase on the next hand hold while her entire body is already stretched to the max. As someone who's not short, but has short limbs and limited mobility for now, I can feel just how hard those positions must have felt for her when she was training them. So this actually lit a fire under my belly to embrace the discomfort and the feeling of risk in these fully stretched out positions in my own training. I used to get frustrated when taller and longer friends could get their whole hand around a hold with their dropknee and I could barely get a fingertip on before falling off, even though my hip was already against the wall. But now I see it as an opportunity to just be better, to be even stronger stretched out, more coordinated with the fingers, more comfortable with ever smaller bases of support in the fingers and toes. People often comment on her monumental finger strength, and I now believe that her extra finger strength comes from facing all the adversities from an early start, where she would have needed that extra finger strength, mobility, and ease of moving COG on "easy climbs" to keep up with everyone else. I do think her height has made her face more adversities more often while climbing, forced her to be more creative, and in the end has given her this incredible competition ability to just push to the limit of her length (and strength). I do think this applies to other climbers too, with more unique body types. It's made me realize that as someone with shorter limbs, the slower, somewhat embarrassing progress through reachy moves taht are supposed to be easy, is going to help me in the long run to be a better climber and to not plateau. So yeah, lots of insights and motivation just from one video!

[@BoulderingHighlights]

Thanks so much! Really appreciate the insight Crystal! I'll definitely make more of this type of content moving forward. I'm also thinking if starting a second channel

[@crystalding5589]

@@BoulderingHighlights cool! for what

[@spacecowboysucio]

Wise man 😊😂

[@chanjessiet]

she is superhuman !

[@nowelsss]

💪🏻💪🏻🔥🔥

[@mjc7745]

The only climbs that she can't do are the ones where she can't literally reach the holds.

[@SweetNessTM]

5:15 ''only this guy managed to send it'' which guy? you okay&

[@BoulderingHighlights]

What do you think of Ai Mori? btw Yes thats me speaking haha Let me know if you enjoy this type of climbing content!

[@HelloBrother22]

yeah, nicely done and really informative. Great stuff

[@HelloBrother22]

There is an abrupt jump at 12:48 though, it cuts and we don't see her go through that specific bit

[@BoulderingHighlights]

@@HelloBrother22 thanks man

[@BoulderingHighlights]

@@HelloBrother22 oo yea thanks for pointing out

[@polkawillneverdie2159]

never been so excited about a climber before haha, looking forward to next year and olympics

[@watermydriedupsoul]

How a 5ft Climber became World Champion, shes 5ft and tiny.

[@clray123]

She's just got very sticky hands.

[@clementvanstaen]

You want your channel to be international? Convert feet to meters next time.

[@ai7783]

Janja is better

[@PretzelBS]

Ngl it’s kind of weird to critique the world champion like she’s way better then any of us

[@leaf4267]

I rather watch without the man commenting it is absolutely annoying.

[@philippvollmer9990]

She is a fantastic and unique climber but please stop click baiting. She won one world cup in 2022 and didn't even place in the Top 3 in any other wolrd Cup that year. She is not the world champion.

[@PS-nm8wk]

Well she also didn't compete in many others :) if at all.

[@lill8537]

I thought she won 3 golds in 2022? Koper (lead), Edinburgh (lead) and Morioka (combined). She wasn’t competing in any of the others because of school.

[@default7621]

she won a world cup. that's perfectly fine click baiting.

[@annyoshioka2131]

Can you guys do any BETTER???????

[@devratnasari]

Can’t believe i missed this video! Thanks a looot