HOW and WHEN to use MESH TAPE!!!!

Paper may be best...BUT...there is a time and place for MESH TAPE! Here is how and when I use it!!
Patreon: www.patreon.com/user?u=109961...

[@TheDuttonExperience]

Finally, a tutorial I can actually watch. No obnoxious music. No schtick. Covers all my questions. Honest.

[@lawrencemay8671]

And no short videos from “ The Office”

[@cliffyj5071]

If you don't care what your wife thinks about your "DYI" job then go ahead and do as this guy does!!

[@freeandcriticalthinker4431]

No kidding, most people making videos on YT are totally clueless how annoying and distracting their insistence on putting stupid music into their videos….. But here, none of that…. Good job for not doing that!:)

[@gardencity3558]

Thanks for this video. Put this knowledge to work right after I watched it on a repair. Cheers Vancouver Carpenter!

[@tamara214]

“Against my own advice….. you know, YOLO!” 🤣🤣🤣 I found this channel by ‘happy accident’ - searching for a topic to get back up to speed in renovating- and after the first couple videos, I realized I really like the way this man is real, showing mistakes, forgetting what he was trying to make a point in saying and little quirky comments. By far my favorite guy to watch while refreshing my knowledge on mudding drywall.

[@Tyani-sz6cg]

Appreciate all you've taught me. Just did my first garage and it turned out perfect.

[@marvelmusic4566]

I love that you don't edit out the parts where you lost your train of thought. It makes you so much more personable and relatable. We are so much more interested in what you are teaching us than we are concerned that your'e not perfect. And you do a really good job of teaching us. This is the sixth video of yours I've watched and I won't be using most of what I've learned. I just like learning different things and since I bought a house, I figure it won't hurt and maybe some day when a contractor is telling me a bunch of BS, I'll know it because I have.

[@milesharlan1]

Ben, Thank You.. You help me clarify when to use mesh verse paper tape. My wife was listening in while I watched the video.. Her comment was " He is funny " . THANK you again for making your videos educational, informative and entertaining with your humor!! Keep up the good work!

[@kage-fm]

*ben:* “make sure your joint is full” *snoop:* nods understandingly

[@raytaylor6702]

As a DIY guy I redid 2 rooms in my house using mesh tape and USG all purpose mud and have had no problems with it. I find paper tape much harder to lay down and get the initial coat on without having air pockets.

[@lewisabrahms1002]

watering/thinning down the mud, will make the paper tape lay down way easier.

[@Robsay01]

I’m the same. Did three rooms with mesh and Easy sand 90 and still looks great after 3 years. Ceiling and walls. Found paper tape harder to deal with.

[@edwardbremer6322]

I use both but when using paper tape i wet the tape and then put it on the mud and its much easier to work with.

[@dukecraig2402]

Mesh tape tip; After putting mesh tape down spray it with spray glue, that keeps those little loose ends from standing up when you smear on the mud that ends up as those little dots after sanding that'll show all the way through paint, the spray glue trick will save you plenty of headaches when using mesh tape.

[@kynzirogers8574]

@@dukecraig2402 does that cause problems down the line, say in 10 years? I like this tip, just wanted to make sure. Also, what spray glue did you have success with?

[@aaronspaulding8762]

Man just thank you for doing these videos. You've saved my ass with these things. I've went from remodeling my bathroom to doing side jobs because people have saw the photos I've posted of the completed remodel and have contacted me wanting work done. Luckily you've taught me well because I need the side jobs because I need the money, got my wedding coming up in October and you've helped me make that possible. Just know that in doing these simple things you've helped me reach a lifetime goal. Thank you bud and your damn good at what you do, God bless you!!!

[@vancouvercarpenter]

Awesome! So happy to hear you’re putting those skills to good use!

[@timscott281]

happy wedding month

[@redsand848evo]

Another great video, you've helped my drywall game immensely! Thank you!

[@rustyshimstock8653]

These lessons are super helpful. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do such a nice job.

[@drewcama2488]

Umm I got some contradictions. Don't use 90 on screws but 20, but you went ahead anyways with the 90. Don't use all purpose on fiber tape because? but you used the 90 on the paper tape because it was already mixed. The 90 wont sand because it gets hard like concrete but your close up doesn't look any different smooth wise than if you had used all purpose. I'm a house painter and jack of all trades kind of guy. I worked for and with a couple of other jack of all trades renovators, so I'm sure my technique isn't by the book. But I use all purpose for everything and more wet for taping then add Plaster of Paris for second and third coats. Mostly things work out. Are there really wrongs and wrights or just preferences and habits?

[@FlyGuy2000]

As a noob who has had problems with paper tape lifting off, I find the mesh tape a lot less error prone because I lack the experience to get the right amount of mud underneath the paper tape; too much and the joint sticks up proud, too little and there isn't enough adhesion. With the mesh I just coat it enough to hide the tape and I know it will work.

[@drewcama2488]

With too much under the paper tape just squeeze it all out. You really cant put too much because your going to squeeze it all out, Too little mud is the problem and you might want it a little more wet to saturate the paper ( well it should be a little saturated at least)

[@ds61821]

This is another helpful video. I need to do a final bathroom remodel that will require drywalling. I'll need to find his videos on which muds to use for which jobs. I tend to go to Menards or HomeDepot and buy a bucket of mud. I need to find a refresher on which mud to use when.

[@arenm7127]

"Married out of wedlock"....That'd be pretty darn impressive! Also, great info. I've learned a ton from this series. Thank you!

[@vancouvercarpenter]

Born out of wedlock🤷‍♂️

[@rickyperkins232]

@@vancouvercarpenter I use mesh tape always and I never had a bubble or cracks

[@danervin2530]

@@rickyperkins232 I swear with Dura90 and a little glue mixed in- you don’t even need tape lol. Stuff is stupid strong for a gyp product.

[@rickyperkins232]

@@danervin2530 question I don't Remember seeing Duro 90 on the shelves. Is that a specialty product?

[@danervin2530]

@@rickyperkins232 East Coast US they have it Home Depot, but not Lowe’s, and of course at drywall supply shops. It’s really, really good stuff, but absolutely unforgiving to mistakes.

[@kevinlynch3156]

I'm a noob and I'm trying to save money redoing my bathroom by doing the work myself. This is really helpful. Thank you for making this video.

[@markandromeda9022]

in kitchen sometime I mix fine tile grout (unsanded) with latex paint and use that to bond the mesh. It works in bathrooms as well to bond the mesh tape to cement board. Ive done dozens of houses that way and NO ISSUES.

[@CraigArndt]

I have learned a lot from you, you helped me do my kitchen remodel and that ceiling work sucked... too old to work above my head, but I did it. I recently put in a sliding door and that drywall came out perfect. Until our black lab pup licked all the mud off the wall, but I was able to fix that too.

[@venictos]

Sorry your pup decided to make a mess of your wall, but i hope it learned a lesson from it.

[@NLR759]

Labs really will eat anything! I'm wondering about the poor pupper digesting the mud!

[@user-by6yc8yl7v]

I use mesh for my joints, for patches, i even use mesh in my corners. And a tip for joining new board to old board - use a fast drying roll on primer to coat the seams... you'd be surprised how much of a dif it makes

[@jesseobrien973]

Hi. What mid should I use for mesh because the all purpose is giving me a hard time.

[@tabbott429]

I use paper tape on inside corners only. I use mesh and Speed set mud for 1st 2 coats on all seams. Final coat is premixed easy sand mud. It works for me just fine. i do pack the large gaps with speedset also prior to any taping. I love SPEED SET MUD for its strength and no shrinkage aspects. most of the time i use 45min. as i can usually use half a bucket just before it starts to set up. and by the time i get the 1st coat laid out its dry enough to start the second coat at the beginning

[@johnstran]

As a DIY'er, I've been doing it all wrong with uneven joint for all these years.......great tips and technique....THANK YOU...

[@terrygonyon4490]

Love the video! As a long time finisher I agree with the setting mud IF you need to use mesh tape. It should be avoided if possible because Mesh tape is for Plaster where you have a base coat and top coat where the mess has a 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch coverage over the mesh tape. It's mainly because if you have any movement it will crack much faster than paper tape. I use a lot of Quickset on jobs for taping and 1st coat just because of the durability of it. I also coat screws and nails with it and in most times just double wipe them the 1st time if they bubble with excess mud. I'll also give them a quick scrape after the 1st coat dries. For some of the comments below the trick is to do tighter coats so you have to sand less. When you get good at finishing you should have a very minimal amount of sanding to do. Basically be able to just rub the edges with your fingers to buff the mud to paper transition. This way you dont rough up the drywall paper sanding and then need to sand again after you prime the surface. If you sand too much and fuzz the paper you will see it no matter how many times you paint it. Thanks for the videos.

[@PDRCanada]

Exactly.....mesh doesnt except movement, why spark perforated embed tape is used instead.......not to mention inside corners.

[@dukecraig2402]

Actually if you put mud down first like with paper tape before you put mesh tape down it won't crack anymore often than paper tape does. Hardly anyone knows that with mesh tape you're really supposed to put mud down first, the adhesive on the one side of mesh tape is not for sticking it to the drywall, the only reason it's on the tape is to keep the roll from falling apart and "birdnesting", unlike paper when the fiber tape is rolled up it wants to straighten out, the adhesive is only on it to keep it from doing that and becoming a big mess, if you contact the tape manufacturers they'll tell you the proper way to use it is to put mud down first just like paper tape.

[@rickeykeeton4770]

@@dukecraig2402 This is news to me. Bought some self sticking mesh today. I had no idea it was peel and stick. Never again! Anyway, the peel and stick seems to go against what you are saying. Actually, I do not like working with any mesh tape. I always seem to have trouble getting it covered in a timely manner without a lot of mud.

[@rickeykeeton4770]

I now have some mesh tape that is not self adhesive. I do mot like dealing with mesh tape much at all. Just seems like it takes more mud to cover it. Been doing some patching and repairing in a rental apartment lately mostly with paper tape and ProForm mud. I am no pro by a long shot, but I have done some very good drywall hanging and finishing. That being said, I have never had such a hard time getting the results I want.

[@nigelcleveland2592]

I do enjoy your videos. Can’t see myself doing any of this type of work but I find watching you doing it fascinating and oddly satisfying!

[@sharvii]

Dude you make it look so easy - very skillful, love the vids 👍

[@polygaryd]

I pre mud with mesh tape because even tho the tape is self adhesive... It usually doesn't stick so the pre mud not only fills the joints but holds the tape in place for sure. Also when you have big gaps you double tape the joint offsetting the mesh by half a row. Been veneer plastering and joint compounding in New England for over 20 years and this is how we do it.

[@jaayees9166]

I prefer your way, but since hes using something stronger than all purpose mud I guess that works.

[@jaayees9166]

That's probably a strong adhesive tape too hahaha

[@NothwestFrozerGamer]

been watching you for 5 years appreciate your work

[@lithobreakerf.5373]

This answers a whole bunch of questions I had about Leah tape. Now I understand. TYVM!

[@billm.8220]

Being a newbie, I think I’ll stick to hot mud & all purpose. I prefer sanding out the high spots if possible & floating out the rough spots. Will use mesh tape when needed but will usually use paper tape. Get it done step-by-step step. May take longer but it WILL look good when it’s finished.

[@jodysanders6445]

Absolutely. I stuck firmly to the step-by-step as well, because it always produced a great end product. It was only after spending a little quality time with some real professionals did I start to see some speed-increasing methods that made some sense. But on jobs of any size I still stick to the steps.

[@stevethewsimpson25]

Hot mud when you are in a hurry, but generally hot mud is almost impossible to sand. Can be great for a first coat but unless it's a quick fix I prefer general all purpose. Even the lightweight has it's drawbacks.

[@caucasianafrican1435]

Don't forget, only hot mud should be used with mesh tape.

[@maddawgzzzz]

You cant just stick to all purpose. You need durabond when you need to ensure that the seam wont crack. Such as from going from plaster/plasterboard to drywall, OR if you are patching a spot that has already cracked.

[@jakerobichaux939]

Thanks so much for this. So many people (contractors!!) just use mesh tape and all purpose compound straight out the bucket.

[@groidcel]

Thanks for the tutorial Ben. I needed this after I accidentally dented my wall doing carpet boarding.

[@markbrock30]

complete newbie here looking to do some plastering, your videos are super helpful mate, lots of great tips - thanks for making them

[@NyteFryte]

I have so much drywall to do in my house that I follow every video that you do and I see good results

[@watsonthumb4997]

I do a lot of historic restoration work, love the tan colored heavy duty mesh tape for repairing cracks or breaks in original plaster walls and also tying old plaster walls in to drywall or new plaster.

[@benschmolze1266]

Thanks for your videos man! I'm curious about wide skimming blades, like 24-32". Seems like it would save a ton of time and arm strain on a job like this where it's all multiple trowel widths. I've always done full durabond as a first coat even on all brand new rock, with mesh tape in the factories and paper everywhere else. Thought the durabond was considered "higher quality" as a base. Interesting points you bring up.

[@JosephStockwell026]

Thank you so much for sharing your skill with all of us. I love your teaching style! I’ve learned so much from you. 🙏🏼

[@theoneandonly3836]

Get a room you two

[@Citizenspress]

Dude, always a fan of your vids. I have been filling, taping and skimming all the way through with durabond… I am trying to eliminate sanding from my life, but have found that I can sand out durabond if I missed a spot floating the final coat. Is there any reason I SHOULDN’T be doing this? I realize it may not be for everybody but it has been working well for me… have I been hanging out with Kirk g too much?? 😂

[@atk8959]

Laying your knife flat when ripping mesh tape was the best tip. I always struggled ripping it with the knife.

[@jrtishner]

The man, the myth, the legend! Again, just making it look so damn easy lol!

[@jmi967]

I was taught to undercoat mesh tape. The glue they use is temporary and weak and the thin undercoat makes for a continuous strip of mud to adhere to and so you can get mud deeper into the voids first. The mesh is to reinforce the mud, not hold the joint and I think that's why so many people have it fail. The only time I’ve only had mesh fail when undercoated when the joint was shifting really bad (heaving). The glue is nice to put everything in place while cutting it to size however, or to keep it on a ceiling as you work. I hope FibaFuze comes out with a tacky sided version (and gets cheaper). In that case the glue might even help it not release fibers so you could freely touch it

[@Aepek]

5:49 That’s the nicest “way” I’ve heard anyone actually call “those types of joints”…. Had an interesting day; as we showed up to a jobsite and ended up having to fix a bathroom that was grouted and tiled “in a way that wasn’t necessarily right”; so, was one of those days (meaning, didn’t know about this till 2 mins after walking on job, and wasn’t expecting it, but, THINGS HAPPEN). Do gotta say, when you walk into a shower that’s tiled ya kinda expect it to stay on the wall, not be on the shower floor, or having pieces of grout missing from sections of wall; & sadly, the company who first did this didn’t wanna do a call back and ………(ya get the cliff notes😉). Should have been doing minor drywall touch ups/repair, fixing door reveals, & final cleanup. IT MADE ME SMILE & LAUGH 😂 THX Ben, and do enjoy watching your vids b/c like your work, personality, & ya pull ppl in, and also like to pickup tips/tricks from others….as “can always learn something new”, is what I say; & the minute you stop is when ya might wanna think about some things😉 Have a good one, & hope knee feeling better✌🏻

[@tbag-2224]

I don't think I get what the term actually is ...over my head I guess

[@Aepek]

@@tbag-2224 as not saying actual word for many reasons, but if truly don’t know. We refer to these types as “BLEEP” JOINTS. What Ben said was, and can Google, but usually referred to a boy/male that “a person born of parents not married to each other”, is definition from Google.

[@tbag-2224]

@@Aepek copy

[@jerometurner8759]

Our home had the sewer back up, so the bottom of the dry wall soaked dirty water. I cleaned up the space and had to cut out that wall and replace it. The space was super tight, no surface was flat, it was very low, it had the floor edge, multiple corners both going inwards and outwards. Wasn't very satisfied with my job. Just did my first layer and I'll add another layer when it gets dry before I sand it down. Hopefully it will look better.

[@Barney-hk3es]

Can tell your a pro. You make a difficult job look easy to do

[@magnumbull]

Your feathering skills are FIRE!!

[@Doodad2]

Its nice to be able to see the detail of the finish on your first pass. I was trying to make it look too good and getting frustrated. I'm working on a remodel that makes your "Nasty remodel" look great! I could kick whoever hung this cabin!!!

[@1ghosthorse]

Great video. I've got to switch to the hawk & trowel. The biomechanics of my bread pan kill my wrist & the hawk looks like it cleans easier than the corners of my bread pan.

[@jasonmyers3358]

Not sure if available in your area, but we use a product at work called Fiba Fuse! It’s a super thin easy to use fiber glass tape. It has been proven way stronger on patches and Butt seams than any other tape. It coats in 2 coats if you know what your doing. You can bed it in dura bond or any variation of lightweight, mid weight, or all purpose mud! We normally use No Coat on out side corners, paper at factories and inside corners and Fiba fuse on patches and butts. There’s 20 plus of us doing it every day with no call backs for 2 years running. Try it out!

[@tay13666]

He's used Fiba Fuse in other videos. I know he doesn't like it because of the fiberglass. Has to wear gloves or he breaks out. But he has demonstrated it a few times before. Think there might even be some in this reno. Way early on.

[@den.james1]

“It’s pretty easy” while he’s doing the one thing I was just struggling with for an hour, hurts real bad. Lol. I’m an electrician. This is not easy 😂

[@lelandlewis7207]

I use mesh a lot because it allows the mud to squeeze into any gaps which seems it would be stronger. I did notice that the tape will move easily when covered with mud, so I am careful to have a reasonable amount of mud on it before scraping so I don't catch it.

[@conchim99]

So I would stick mesh above the gap, then full in my joint compound and press them in? Would the joint compound squeeze through mesh?

[@lelandlewis7207]

@@conchim99 to a certain extent. I pre-fill the joint and then tape to ensure proper filling and bonding.

[@barbaral4157]

You are so interesting! I am appreciating more and more your trade ! Just love it!👍🏿

[@lewisabrahms1002]

Thanks BEN! You ever use mesh tape in the corners, they have those mesh guns and corner tools. I follow your advice and generally stick to paper tape.

[@jackjax532]

Very helpful Ben!

[@rc5869]

You have taught me so much, thank you!

[@chronesrt2925]

Im a Contractor from ontario and I want to thank you for telling people they DONT need to Pre-Fill when using fiber Tape. Ive been proving people wrong on this for years. If you are going to take the time to pre fill Then just use PAPER tape on your 2nd coat. Like really. Time is money.

[@dukecraig2402]

Actually just like with paper tape you should put mud down first before you apply mesh tape, I'm not talking about pre filling, which you will be doing, but you're really supposed to wipe a layer of mud on the drywall before applying mesh tape. The glue on mesh tape isn't there to stick it to the drywall like everyone thinks, it's only on the tape to keep it from unraveling and turning into a big mess, unlike paper which will stay curled up when you wind it around something the mesh tape wants to straighten itself out much more than paper does so they put the glue on it to keep it from happening. If you contact the tape manufacturer's they'll tell you the proper way to use mesh tape is just like paper tape, apply a layer of mud, put the tape on and then apply another layer of mud over it.

[@potatotime4747]

While a lot of people say you can't use hot mud with paper tape, Interior Vids on youtube did a test with paper tape and Pro Set 90 and it held up better than with taping mud iirc. Perhaps when you have time you can do a similar test to confirm?

[@lvtflooringstore7687]

thanks for the info, seen so many times diy use mesh tape improperly

[@virathiyam5401]

Well done with the tutorial sir.. Qs.For torn mosquito net patching, can air still flow through sticky fiber glass mesh tape or is it fully blocked by a transparent adhesive layer in the tape?

[@gregnixon5770]

Been finishing for over 20 years...I use different procedures depending on a lot if different factors...mainly the software the job to cut down on the number of trips there

[@brainmosmith1]

great video, sorry if I missed this but is your final coat with 'setting type' compound as well or typical all purpose or lite compound?

[@TheNIX001]

You see the sort of "V-Groove" shape from the plasterboards on the sides? When you cut a plasterboard, add this kind of "V-groove" so more mud can fill in 😉

[@aservant2287]

I think you're awesome. I've taken some things that I use everyday. My question is, if the wall will be covered by cabinets why do anything at all regardless using mesh or paper tape? Just wondering

[@keithdouglas9848]

Great videos mate ,mesh tape has its place and can be good but never use mesh tape in corners 👍🇮🇪🇮🇪 love your videos!

[@HotspotsSoutheast]

When I was listening to the cartoon music playing while you were doing the fast forward part it made me think of Mr Roger’s Neighborhood and there was an episode where he used a hammer and tools. So I made an appropriate intro for your show. I probably can’t post it as KZbin will block links but I will add it as a comment to this post. Probably only you will get to see it but it’s worth a laugh. :)

[@merkymerks3954]

hahahah i love this dude. Man I wish I work like this. Like whatever if i lose my train of thought forget it. Bro your great. Good job

[@sandradelgadillo9430]

Hello, I see that u have an area of electrical wires. Do u ever create a panel to house those wires? I'm kinda in that situation right now but mine is for plumbing. I'm currently patching up about 8 holes (guided through your videos) my plaster/drywall (drywall is over plaster) and it would be interesting to know how to make a panel. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR VIDEOS.

[@UptonSinclairLewis]

What amazed me is how much faster he was able to work at the end when he stopped talking. He was like 10 times the speed, like in those old silent movies. I've never seen anyone work that fast!

[@Ivinulose]

Durabond 90 is a great product. Never fails. abit more of a learning curve though!

[@huejanus5505]

I completely renovated my house about 28 years ago, I used paper tape in the corners and fibertape on all the flat joints. I gave the joints a coat of a mud/plaster of paris mix to embed the mesh, and not one has failed. The mixture dries much harder than regular mud, gives you about 6 or 7 minutes to smooth out any rough spots as it’s setting, and depending how much plaster you put in, it can set in a few minutes to about an hour. I use this method because I don’t want to have a bag of 5 minute, 20 minute, 45 minute, durabond and regular mud kicking around.

[@jmackinjersey1]

Fibertape and mesh tape are different products.

[@terrybeaud9348]

Thanks for the great tips Ben. Question: is quick-set mud considered "setting mud" as well ?

[@23mistakes]

Yes, the terms are interchangable. As compared to pre-mix bucket mud.

[@Astrnauted]

Umm durabond is definitely able to be sanded and scraped. Most of the time though I just scrape it the day I apply it before it completely cures. It may be set but it definitely stands and scrapes not as easy as plus 3 or any easy sand obviously but it’s fairly easy. It’s like the difference between the easy sand and plus 3 you better hope you have a few coats of plus 3 on top of an easy sand if you want to sand it and not have any flashing. Lastly if you have too much water in your durabond it’s proven to have adhesion problems after setting/curing so really watch that mix Vancouver! Lol love your videos

[@mikebeckett5980]

Try Prefilling all joints and corners with easysand , paper tape all joints and corners with regular mud then easysand over the top, second coat easysand finish coat and cleanup corners with joint compound. Works great with the faster setting bags ie. 20 min 45 min or 5 min if you dare lol

[@Mike-01234]

Never used fast setting mud with the tape always the general purpose never had any issues. I'm only fixing small holes or cuts to open wall to run wires or plumbing. What worries me mess up and can't sand it and start over have to cut out a bigger hole around it.

[@oldworldchris4187]

Fantastic instruction, thanks!

[@markandromeda9022]

I like the way you tape and coat in one day.

[@HenkJanBakker]

The 'mud first' is an old timey idea. It was the way to use mesh before the self-adhesive stuff. Construction wise it makes no difference but self-adhesive mesh tape is just cleaner to work with.

[@imchris5000]

the idea of mud first is to get the mud down into the joint joining the boards when you smooth out paper tape it forces the mud in even deeper

[@scottvisser8671]

so, do you always paster the whole wall versus just the joints and nails? What is the advantage of that? Do you use one coat of general purpose mud and then skim it with topping mud. Sorry, if I am asking and you already said it in the video. You know how "bothersome" people can be. LOL Thanks, by the way. You ROCK. I really appreciate you!

[@travisk5589]

I'm curious about the mesh tape. I would only use mesh tape with hot muds or setting typos. But I've never read that on the packaging of the mesh tape.

[@jfray3725]

Master expert genius only dry wall videos I watched

[@qmoonwalker3847]

Great videos! Have been watching since I've never taped and textured before and I need to do my sisters house after repairs due to water damage. She has medium texture and I have many factory joints from new drywall next to existing textured drywall. I'm planning on using paper and 90 minute. I have a couple questions and am hoping you will help. How do I remove existing texture (I think a sander based on your other videos) and how far should I remove the existing texture? A second question: what type of mud or material should I use to finish off around a fiberglass tub/shower combo? Thanks again for the great instructional videos! You have helped me tremendously!!

[@RaistlinVideos]

Textures can be a royal PIA, and how hard it is to deal with depends on what kind it is. Sprayed Popcorn can be scrapped off if you wet it and let the water loosen it up. Keep in mind that popcorn spray covered joints and defects that weren't completely finished, so plan to redo the joints and maybe the nail / screws. Plus you will have to fix any scratches or gouges resulting from scrapping. There are videos on KZbin on how to do this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gn3FZaCKeJaSmqs Stippled ceilings are harder to scrape off. They are done by rolling mud all over the surface then stamping the pattern with a round brush. The result being the mud is bonded much better than the sprayed finish. Supposedly it can be done. I've tried it, and just ended up damaging the paper. Easier options include renting a drywall sander, to sand down to the paper face of drywall. DO NOT go through the paper face as the sheet will lose its integrity. It might not be completely smooth, and you might need to skim coat and sand whatever is left of the texture. www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Porter-Cable-Drywall-Sander-7800/309419343 That's a lot of work, and a lot of sanding, and a lot of dust. Something to consider if the house is being lived in. If the water damage is limited to a single room consider just hanging another layer right over the first. A bit more expensive, but far less labor intensive. Keep in mind that light boxes will have to be lowered to be flush with the new layer. Code requires that where I am, and maybe everywhere. Also, rehanging the fixtures might be difficult with the box recessed 1/2 inch. There are 1/2 inch light box extenders available, but they are sometimes hard to find and are usually overpriced for what they are. Use mold resistant sheets around a shower unit. They tend to be green rather than white, and can easily be found at the big box stores.

[@qmoonwalker3847]

Thanks so very much for your reply!!! I’ll take a look at the links you sent!

[@qmoonwalker3847]

@@RaistlinVideos what mud should I use around the tub/shower? Thanks!

[@RaistlinVideos]

@@qmoonwalker3847 My quick tip list: Honestly, I recommend premixed general purpose or Plus 3 for anyone not experienced with mudding drywall. They do take longer to dry, and require more than 1 coat in most cases; however, it is far more forgiving than hot mud. Ideally GP for base coats, and Plus 3 for top coats. Hot mud has to be mixed correctly and used within a time limit. Also, while most of them can be sanded it's much harder than general purpose. Plus 3 is the easiest to sand. I also suggest you add a little water to thin down premixed mud. It comes out of the bucket like hard ice-cream. What you want is for it to be more like thick yogurt. Just add 1 or 2 ounces water in your mud tray, and completely stir it in with your knife. Hang drywall with 1 1/4 inch screws and a drywall set bit. If you put a second layer on the ceiling use 2 inch screws. Don't forget to find your trusses or ceiling joists and snap chalk lines before starting. I also recommend FibaFuse tape for joints. It won't leave bubbles under the tape that can lift off the wall if the base coat is too thin. It is a fiberglass product which is a little prickly. If you have soft hands wear nitrile gloves. Definitely use paper tape in corners. Neither FibaFuse nor mesh tape will crease like paper tape will to give you crisp corners. For outside corners I recommend metal corner beads. Plastic is okay but can pucker while metal lays flatter. Corner beads should be placed using drywall nails, not screws. Good luck with your repair project.

[@qmoonwalker3847]

@@RaistlinVideos thanks very much for the tips! Very helpful.

[@prenumenumedefamilie3418]

Hy Ben ! i sugest you something ! Prewet your drywall first and use more thik material ! You will need less coats ! And more time for sketboarding !Have fun !

[@akdrywallguy60]

Good stuff - have you used the fibafuse fiberglass tape yet? I love it for repairs because it's so much thinner and lays flatter than the mesh tapes. On repairs (and any other small jobs), you can get away with applying the tape and topping at the same time and if you're really smooth on the topping, you can usually skim it with topping or AP mud as soon as the durabond sets up. The only downside that I've seen with it is that it doesn't have an adhesive on it, so you can't set the tape before hitting with your durabond. Check it out if you're interested - cheers!

[@vancouvercarpenter]

I'm very familiar with it. My fingers and forearms are itching just thinking about it😂

[@akdrywallguy60]

@@vancouvercarpenter - Right!? I guess I should have added that in with the negatives... Cheers!

[@markandromeda9022]

Yes OK durabond 90 might have an advantage. Im talkng about using mesh in high vis areas - risky.

[@DriverDude100]

I see a massive amount of skill in this video.

[@Chris.Rhodes]

I actually quit using mesh tape. I use either paper tape for inside corners and I use FibaFuse tape for literally everything else lol I've come to really like the Fibafuse. It soaks up the mud and makes a very strong joint.

[@kmonnier]

agree, it lays down thin and is dimensionally stable.

[@Chris.Rhodes]

@@kmonnier I agree. The only thing that sucks is if you don't wear gloves you'll get itchy, but other than that, it's the best performing tape I've found thus far. Mesh tape is okay for patching a hole, but that's about it for me, everything can be accomplished with the Fibafuse.

[@srharris88]

I have only used fibafuse a few times, but really didnt like it much. Might be strong joint, but hated the fiberglass itch. Plus the mix i used with it was really hard to sand.

[@Chris.Rhodes]

@@srharris88 i use it atleast once a week, you have to wear gloves, that's a must. what compound are you using? ever hot mud I've used sanded no problem.

[@Chris.Rhodes]

@@srharris88 Not being ignorant, or rude, but sounds like user error, it's a small learning curve, but in my opinion it's much better than mesh tape.

[@carlswainston7918]

In the UK we call the mesh tape scrim that's what most plasterers use to caulk and scrim joints.

[@eldonpreston8896]

Great video! Thanks for the info. really appreciate.

[@Gog3453]

Try using a 4”roller instead of a (knife or trial) for mesh tape on the first pass with regular mud. Than with a knife quick set on the second pass. You’ll love the results

[@milessharette3770]

What kind of roller head? Sponge, or 3/8”? I’m assuming any smooth surface type would work

[@jeffkenyon483]

Learning much,thanks nice work!

[@wisconsinwoodsman1987]

Do you have a video showing how to patch an outlet edge that got broken? I’d need a super duper jumbo outlet cover to hide it 😂 many thanks for your tutorials.

[@YSZhou]

So do you prefer to use paper tape on new dry wall joints if it's not behind cabinets?

[@thepush1770]

U make me want to try a hawk n trawl I’m a finisher myself but I’ve only ever used a pan n knifes 👍

[@KingSobieski]

If you try it you will like it!

[@imnotanalien2948]

If you dont water it down you can use all purpose with mesh tape. I think the thinned down mud runs through the mesh and causes problems.

[@scotthenderson7235]

When presetting gaps would it be okay to let seam dry completely before applying tape?

[@dwaynemcallister7231]

Perfect! Doing a ceiling patch 16" by 6", Mesh Tape and sheet Rock 90 should work.

[@CR3DT]

Very good. Do you typically add a skim coat to the entire wall surface once you have already filled the joints?

[@channahnoyb4803]

We used paper tape when doing remodel on our house and it puckered everywhere. My brother did most of it and while he had little to no experience, (he has no work during the winter months and needed money) I don’t blame him. I tore the paper tape off almost everywhere after I started seeing the puckering with almost no resistance and have replaced with mesh which will not leave as nice a finish, but I see no other choice. I do know that I hate drywall finishing. Really, really hate it. I’m a nurse and would rather administer 10 soap suds enemas daily than finish drywall.

[@acreguy3156]

Love your videos!!! I use mesh tape plus Sheetrock 90 for most builds. I find it works well. *Question:* What do you recommend for unheated, attached garages where two of the four walls are heated? I've tried paper but the Canadian winters dislodge it. Will mesh tape work better?

[@vladbukhman429]

Bro I live in Ontario, I use mesh tape on straight lines, no problem, even in a cottage country, 200 miles north from Toronto!

[@acreguy3156]

@@vladbukhman429 Thanks!!

[@ronaldwilliams4290]

FANTASTIC. Why didn’t I see this before I tried diy.😡

[@alancarter1626]

Love the videos love see more skating videos also from you

[@Eric-wq4lj]

In past projects, usually tearing out lathe and horsehair plaster in very old houses, I've always used strapping horizontally over the old vertical studs to attach the drywall to. Is this a good practice for this type of install or is there a better method?

[@kirkdunn1379]

Not only that but rerouting the plumbing properly and checking behind the wall and fixing any issues is best way....its already apart and everyrhing goes faster.....old plumbing or electric goes south and your tearing into your new kitchen....have seen it more than once If you have it apart fix it right the first time.....guarantee the stuff behind those walls was not in best shape judging by look of some of those pipes Drywall is cheap and least of your concerns

[@dirkg7062]

Nice job!