How Can I Strip the Paint Off of my Postwar Shell

I dont like bad paint jobs and I don't like spending too much money stripping bad paint jobs.
Theres many ways to strip paint off metal. I like this method because the chemical isn't harsh and it did a VERY good job for not a lot of money.
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[@petermot645]

I use the same method, to strip down old models and repaint them.

[@joesattler2773]

Hello Warren, very good video. There is a much cheaper, faster and easier way to remove paint from die cast OR tinplate shells (not plastic shells). Believe it or not, it uses only plain laundry detergent and boiling water. If you have a galvanized metal bucket or metal pail big enough to put the shell in (you can buy these in Lowe's or Home Depot; If you can't find them, they also sell empty metal paint cans which will work), add 1/2 cup of any laundry detergent to the bucket. Fill the rest of the bucket with enough water to cover up the shell, and boil the water. BUT BE SURE to remove any plastic items from the shell, such as headlight lens, windshield, marker lights, etc. before putting it in the water. After about 1/2 hour to 1 hour, the paint will flake right off. Keep in mind that the bucket or pail cannot be used for any other purpose, since it will probably be stained from the paint removal. I know it sounds unbelievable, but it works! And you don't have to worry about harsh chemicals to get rid of. Just rinse off the shell with clean water after it has cooled, and dry it off. I learned this trick from a book entitled "Tips and Tricks for Toy Train Operators" by Peter H. Riddle, from Greenberg Books, a Division of Kalmbach Publishing Company, circa 1994- I was very skeptical but tried it myself on an old Lionel 259E and also a Lionel 2056 shell, as well as an old Marx tinplate floodlight tower. You may want to try it on an old beater engine, but I assure you that it works. Plus the book aforementioned is definitely worth picking up, as it has loads of information for the toy train enthusiast- Hope this helps! Take care.

[@ostrich67]

Dot 3 brake fluid also works on delicate plastic parts, though as always, test on an inconspicuous area. The Matchbox car restorers use it on plastic windshields that had paint slopped over them by their kid owners.

[@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331]

I've been using brake fluid for years. I wanted to get away for the chemicals like that.

[@georgekunkel5092]

Warren, I like your videos, just an FYI the Simple Green can be reused after you’ve used it pour it back in the bottle and save it for the next project. Also works well on plastic paint removal. I use it on Aurora HO Slot cars.

[@northpennvalleysteamrailroad]

Good video! Have a good day.

[@richardnelson-ux1zz]

You should consider selling your restored locomotives

[@richardnelson-ux1zz]

Really like your videos I have learned a lot watching then putting you have videos to practice use works really quickly on removing paint from metal and use it for washing my passenger cars and freight cars

[@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331]

Thanks for watching Richard. Thanks for sharing that the vids have been helpful to you. I love hearing that because it means more Lionels are running and not heading for a recycle bin!

[@richardzajac5694]

The purple stuff, is Super Clean. Works really well on scale models and hot wheels. I'm sure it would still work on some trains. Same technique as the simple green. Put it in a bath and let it sit for 12-24 years.

[@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331]

Thanks for watching Richard! And thanks fro giving the name of the "purple stuff" I'll drop a link to it in the description. If it works on Hot Wheels, it will work on diecast train shells too!

[@petermot645]

Years ??

[@richardzajac5694]

@@petermot645 It'll really be clean! I meant 1-2 days.

[@Inquisitor_Mad_Dog]

Bio strip 20 the best paint stripper.

[@davewhiteside7069]

I have used a Dettol bath with great success. Takes 24 hours, and the paint comes off with little scrubbing.

[@dagryffynhobby]

I never would have thought of using simple green. I may have to give that a shot. I also want to stay away from things like brake fluid for the hobby. I already get exposed to too much of it at work! Thanks for sharing.

[@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331]

I just stripped another Loco. 2056 that was repainted, poorly. I left the whole shell in Simple Green for 2 days and took ALL the paint off right down to the bare metal with only a toothbrush and elbow grease. No wire wheel needed for removal. And the used Simple Green I probably could have reused. It still had plenty of "kick".

[@dagryffynhobby]

@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331 that’s awesome.

[@dagryffynhobby]

So after watching this video I bought a gallon of simple green and put Marx engine and tender shells in it. It really works and works well. The tender shell was clean in a few hours, without scrubbing​ and it looks like about 24 hours and with a little scrubbing the engine shell should be good. ⁠@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331

[@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331]

@@dagryffynhobby give it a quick wash down with cheap dish soap to be sure its a clean surface. Share this tip on your channel. I'm sure theres tons of model railfans that would prefer this over break fluid and other heavy chemical strippers.

[@genemanno1533]

There is no replacement for glass beading the casting. There are true paint removers if metal shell that do work but nothing is as complete as glass beading. Plastic shells do require a lot more effort. True paint removers are not acceptable for plastic. I heard oven cleaner does an acceptable job on plastic.

[@plunkervillerr1529]

Soke in white vinegar for 48 hrs.

[@philliprowe2656]

What primer will you use?

[@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331]

I bought a Rustoleum 2 in one primer and paint satin black. I already applied it to a 221 I stripped and repainted and its holding up really well. I thought of "baking" the paint but so far it seems unnecessary.

[@philliprowe2656]

@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331 yes I used the same primer and paint on my my brass Dreyfuss boiler ,paint came out like glass, no orange peel at all!