How Dangerous is Fake Car A/C Refrigerant? Let's Find Out!

[@ProjectFarm]

Here's a list of the products tested in the video. More details in the video description. Thank you! ZeroR: amzn.to/4cwZdQb Leak Saver: amzn.to/3VQBvHt Refrigerant Scale: amzn.to/3VMJ4Pz Vevor Refrigerant Recovery Machine: amzn.to/3VOUkL5 Vevor Refrigerant Recovery Tank: amzn.to/4eOBNaq Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/3xHv69E Manifold Gauge Set: amzn.to/4bxLM17

[@The_Chad_]

I own an HVAC company and I'm surprised how well and thorough you did with this video. I shouldn't be, because you're always thorough, but I never expect anyone to grasp refrigeration very well. Great job! I didn't even realize there were a bunch of 134a replacements on the market. Good to know. Replacement refrigerants usually work fine, but I avoid them when I can. Also, I'll ask again and hopefully one day you'll be able to get to it, but- testing coolant additives would be awesome. Those additives that are supposed to make your cooling system run cooler like Royal Purple's Purple Ice, Water Wetter, etc.

[@PuerRidcully]

I've heard some compounds have troubles mixing with oil in the system. You gotta use different oil with them. All in all probably not worth the risk.

[@lt.lasereyez8891]

Propane works as a R134a replacement and is used in the EU in giant refrigerated warehouses because of reasons that have to do with Greta Thunberg

[@therealdojj]

@@The_Chad_ I used water wetter in my engine 25 odd years ago It worked for me 👍

[@The_R-n-I_Guy]

I would also be interested in a video on this. I don't like to waste money. But if a product is good, I want to know

[@PuerRidcully]

@@lt.lasereyez8891 You need to use different oils with different refrigerants, so you cna't simply replace them. You can find vids on youtube about how they mix with different oils

[@hu5116]

This was not a test of R-134 replacement refrigerants … it was a detailed course in AC servicing! Bravo, great job!

[@yourmomsmom311]

Absolutely

[@Dosbomber]

A win for us either way.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@GiovannyAltamirano94]

@@ProjectFarm i can explain why adding this replacement wouldnt work to some people. you dont mix freon, u replace. so if ur half full and u add the other half with the replacement the whole system would fail bc both freons operate on different pressures. ur either full with just 134 or with propane but not both. so if the other people did wat u did , replacing the freon i bet it would have worked for them. i an havc tech

[@kordelewaters2655]

Still would like a timecert vs heli coil video

[@SeenOrHeard]

Literally one of the best examples of correctly using a refrigerant recovery machine on YT

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@SixOhFive]

You mean a caresaver?

[@Simpleman1078]

​@@ProjectFarmyour check engine light is on

[@TechWithVille]

To be fair, the R134a Replacement Refrigerant has R134a written on it with huge letters despite not being that stuff at all. Unlike ZeroR, the replacement refrigerant has purposefully been designed to deceive customers looking for actual R134a.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@greenidguy9292]

Yep, I’ve been victimized by the scam. If you see R134a synthetic it’s fake.

[@ShionWinkler]

@@greenidguy9292 Well all R134a is synthetic, we make it, it's not found in nature, thus synthetic.

[@kauske]

IT's kind of bonkers that they can just put "r134a replacement" and not the actual R-number for whatever chemical is in the cans. It's very likely propane (otherwise known as R-290).

[@julianfell666]

R-12a is a blend of propane and butane. R-290 is straight propane.

[@raveseer]

Today I learned how to properly recover refrigerant. Thanks for unveiling another mystery of the trades!

[@ProjectFarm]

Our pleasure!

[@hithereperson8137]

Bro just admitted to breaking the law 😂😂😂

[@volvo09]

​@@hithereperson8137 doesn't really matter. You've got to go extremely overboard with it to get in trouble. Being a DIY'er without the tools isn't going to gain any attention from the authorities

[@Owen-xw8cs]

It’s not a dot approved recovery tank. Don’t buy that one

[@hithereperson8137]

@@volvo09 oh I agree, I just find it funny

[@berthagen387]

The amount of different items tested and with absolute know of every thing tested leaves me to believe you are either a rocket scientist or a real world genius.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@berthagen387]

Thank you for all you do sir ​@@ProjectFarm

[@Ronsonic]

He's a real world genius.

[@rayjones201]

I do believe most if not all items reviewed have instruction manuals

[@chuckholmes2075]

or he's just very intuitive

[@TheCrazyCartModChannel]

Todd, you started the best and you're still the best. To me, your channel feels like the most American channel that this great country could produce. You are the type of wholesome person that I think every person wishes they knew personally. Keep it exactly the same. Very few people get it right straight out of the gate, so naturally you'll wonder what you need to improve. To me, the answer is NOTHING.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks so much!

[@toast1012]

GOOD COMMENT. TRUE TOO. THANK YOU caps

[@laserflexr6321]

A real life hero I tell ya! Todd is the younger brother I always wish I had. A good balanced personality, dilligent enough to always achieve exellent results, but not so mental as to habitually be trapped in analysis paralysis. One of the favoritest people on youtube.

[@YaBoiiiNikki]

I'm not even American, but I agree! It would be nice to compare some of the most commonly sold engine oils used in the EU vs in the US, while keeping the video format the same. I imported a Corvette but frankly I have no idea what to pour in it since I can't just go to Autozone and get Amsoil or AC Delco stuff

[@jerbear7952]

I heard he steals the lawnmowers from little old ladies yards and puts them in the yards of other little old ladies to start arguments and confusion

[@richb419]

HI, keep in mind that when taking a vacuum on a system some moisture will freeze due to the evaporation and appear it is all out, sometimes all you need to do is let the system up to atmosphere and the ice will melt. what we normally did was warm it up with a torch or heat gun, while watching the vacuum gauge, when any water flashes off the vacuum will jump up a little. I would warm up the accumulator/drier to drive off the stored moisture. Good Luck Rich

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@Raikos100]

Sorry for asking this, but can you clarify for me? the moisture freezes due to the vacuum itself? (even when on atmosphere temps) or you mentioning the situation where the system is still partially cold from the use and you need to let it sit in the open for a while so all the frozen water inside melts before the vacuum is done? I just got confused if the vacuum itself can cause the freezing and if you would heat the system up as the vacuum happens. Thank you for that insight btw, it's super valuable.

[@Adam-hp5hj]

​@@Raikos100he's saying the water content would freeze due to the vacuum causing evaporation which lowers the temperature of the substrate, so water content that evaporates would cool the remainder of the system to the extent some other remaining moisture could freeze

[@rickc303]

Fun fact: "Freon" is DuPont's registered trademark for R12. If it isn't R12, made by DuPont, it isn't "freon"

[@JaysRandomnessChannel]

Yes, all refrigerant isn't Freon. Kinda like when my kids grandma says she is going to "Hoover" the floor...with a Kirby 😂

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for sharing!

[@DuckPerc]

It's our duty as citizens of the world to flagrantly mock trademarks by using them to refer to *other brands.*

[@kracin]

@@JaysRandomnessChannel maybe she meant she was going to take away all other things away from the floor and leave it barren of anything beyond what it came with.... like Herbert Hoover....?

[@Kadepatterson]

Freon is now a trademark of chemours and they sell r134a under the Freon name as well as many other refrigerants

[@RetiredEE]

The explanation of how the car's AC system works @6:55 alone makes this video worthwhile for anyone who works on cars. Another PF gem 💎💎 💎

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@Colorado_Native]

I had a mechanic years ago explain air conditioning very quickly. Bear with me. Lick the palm of your hand and now breathe out on it for a couple of seconds with your mouth open. Now repeat but this time purse your lips as you blow. Even though it's similar you will notice a difference in how cool your palm feels.

[@SMITHII_]

​@Colorado_Native That is an explanation of evaporative cooling, not conventional air conditioning.

[@LinusJohansson-yu7cy]

Too bad it got a little mixed up. The hot gas coming from the compressor enters at the top of the condenser and drains as liquid at the bottom. And the same goes for the evaporator; liquid enters at the bottom, boils off and exits as vapor at the top.

[@chuckholmes2075]

the older systems used an expansion valve to release the pressure. most people didn't know FREON boils under pressure and freezes when you release that pressure

[@OGBunney]

Fun fact: propane can be replaced in a functioning R22 system and it will run perfectly. Propane and isobutane are common refrigerants in soda vending machines and commercial refrigerators like in supermarkets

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@brnmcc01]

Yup I have also done the reverse. One time I was working on a nearly brand new Beverage Air bar undercounter beer bottle glass door display cooler that wasn't working. Turns out the damn trucking company must have bumped something during transport. The discharge line was cracked going right into the condenser coil and the first time they plugged it in, the compressor 'self recovered' the refrigerant charge and pumped it all out! We called them, and they were like well, blah blah call this 3rd party warranty company, and they'll send out a tech to 'fix' it (ya but wait for weeks no thanks). So, after finding the leak, I just brazed it shut with some 15% silFos, and recharged it with R22. It is still working fine 3-4 years later. The problem was this happened in 2020, and NO supply houses anywhere around here had any R290 in stock, and we needed that cooler up and running asap for grand opening night of this nightclub. Today, a can of R290 can be had for about $29, and there's plenty back in stock now. But back in 2020, good luck, that was the worst of the f'ing Covid shutdowns/shortages nightmare. isobutane (R600a) is a good substitute for R12/134A, very similar pressures and temps, boils at about 0 C at 0 psig pressures.

[@ericocegueda3222]

R290 is the trade name

[@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC]

A long time ago, I recharged my car with propane/butane mix. It worked okay on the open road, though it really had a hard time unless there was enough air through the condenser. I had no idea what appropriate numbers would have been, so my attempt at eyeballing it probably wasn't very good. I remember though everyone waving their arms like hysterical muppets due to the flammability, but apparently it's okay to use flammable refrigerant now because fire hazards are good for the planet.

[@TheJoedirt6000]

Ya everything burns

[@joshuadelutis7170]

Just thought I should point out: You're not supposed to use those one-time-use cylinders for recovery purposes, ore reuse them, at all You're *really* not supposed to mix refrigerants in a cylinder, without knowing they are the same type. This can make it much harder to reclaim Otherwise, excellent video, glad to see someone testing these replacements I keep coming across. Thanks!

[@TofuInc]

When it's turned in it's destroyed instead of recycled. We come across R22 systems all the time that have had mystery refrigerants mixed in, 407c, MO99, 410a, all sorts of stuff.

[@dondraper2488]

I like the dude’s commitment to a task….

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!!

[@aliwooz913]

Project Farm is legit!!! I watch all his videos. Have definitely learned alot

[@VariableVideo5]

When I was 19 I drove around Arizona in a car with non-functioning AC. I didn't know what to do to fix it nor could I afford it. That was horrible. Now I know so much more. Thanks.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@Cassinspace]

Most cans of r134a and other refrigerants have additional chemicals like stop leak or compressor oil in them. Don't use these products without proper knowledge of your refrigeration system or you risk equipment damage. It's designed to operate at a specific level of refrigerant, adding can after can will overpressurize it and stop it from even turning on. More cans =/= more cold. When I replaced my ac compressor I had a hard time finding straight r134a. Super Tech was the only can i found without any additives. Ones with oil in them didn't have the amount I needed. I added the required 5oz of compressor oil before sealing and charging the system. Excellent video as always, thanks PF!

[@boots7859]

Thats a great point missed by all the 'its easy' commenters. You need a specific amount of oil for the compressor to continue to operate. Just adding refrigerant without oil to a leaky system is just going to see it go oil starved and die.

[@justinr9753]

I've put that in when I didn't have a gauge, was a mess to clean using air compressor and mineral spirits when I did finally have to replace the compressor that had been grinding for years. The new compressor said no warranty if you have leak stop

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@brnmcc01]

You can find plain R134A in the small cans at like Autozone and Rural King. Walmart is sometimes the cheapest, you just have to stay away from the ones with the built in attached hose, those have all kinds of oil and other "fillers" added to them.

[@ryelor123]

DO NOT EVER USE STOPLEAK REFRIGERANT. No shop will touch your ac system unless its to replace the whole thing. Stopleak destroys recovery machines and you're supposed to do a simple water test before hooking up a machine to make sure it doesn't have that stuff in it. Yes, you should be hoarding R134a can since they'll be worth a lot more in the near future. Buy as many as you can. But don't touch a stopleak can. Also, I don't think the cans come with oil. You're supposed to add that separately after knowing how much you've removed or when installing a new compressor. Even then, many new compressors come pre-filled and you want to replace the receiver drier or accumulator anyway.

[@Daniel-Johnson]

My grandpa used to charge his AC system with propane. When I got my first square body truck it had AC but didn't work, he said "oh just needs charged" I didn't think anything of it he charged it and it worked great, I drove that truck for almost a year when one day we were talking and he asked how my AC was doing I said still works great je replys with " good ol propane" I said WHAT!?! He then proceeds to tell me that's how he's always charged ac systems! Sorry papa I had to tell the story, RIP 🙏

[@hedonismbot1508]

Isn't propane (or possibly methane) actually used on some window A/C units, on the grounds that so many people can't be bothered to dispose of broken ones properly?

[@Daniel-Johnson]

@@hedonismbot1508 I'm not sure.. but I suppose it couldn't be any worse than R12 isn't it R12 that when it meets a flame is basically the same stuff Hitler used in all of his poison gas Chambers?!

[@tovenaar1988]

​@@Daniel-Johnsonisn't freon just r12 trademarks as freon by Dupont?

[@Daniel-Johnson]

@@tovenaar1988 I'm not sure 😕

[@ned8276]

@@hedonismbot1508 Newer heat pumps usually use R600a which is just butane. My fridge has a big ol' "warning flammable gas" on the back.

[@RangerOfTheOrder]

I appreciate you going over the steps for refrigerant recovery! You always provide great info without padding for time and I love it!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@tihzho]

This brought back memories of when I worked (1990's) as a service engineer for a company in Australia that manufactured vacuum pumps, refrigeration and recovery systems and was the agent for Leybold (Germany) who manufactured refrigerant leak detector equipment. One such leak detector used a quadrupole mass spectrometer for the refrigerant used and the leak rate with several preprogrammed selections with one being programmable. Funny story, a manufacturer of refrigerators and ac units in Orange New South Wales bought dozens of these machines and I went there for their routine service. The production manager asked if the machine could detect methane which it does and I programmed it. He then took the probe and held it to his butt and farted. The machine not only detected it but sounded an alarm as the leak rate was very high!! LOL We both laughed so much our sides were hurting!!

[@ProjectFarm]

Lol, Thank you for sharing!

[@moestrei]

Does that company still exist ? Or was it wrecked by cheap made in C. like everything else in Straya??(asking from Coonabarabran/NSW).

[@tihzho]

@@moestrei Still there in Victoria :) Great company too!

[@tihzho]

@@moestrei Still there in Victoria

[@CJ-jo6do]

As a auto tech, there's a couple things to note. You should leave the recovery run for a few minutes to get the refrigerant out of the oil. It needs time and vacuum to boil out. Also I heavily discourage using any sealants or leak-stopper in the refrigerant system. It slows a leak down at best. The worst part is that it causes major issues in A/C service equipment, including plugging up control valves and possible other expensive damage. If the vehicle has any leak-stopper in it, there's a special inline filter that needs to be installed between the vehicle and the A/C machine.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for sharing!

[@knurlgnar24]

I've used sealer products on multiple vehicles. It worked on all of them - one of them going from leaking out over the course of a day to lasting 10 years until I sold it never again needing a charge. The issue is if you need to open the system up to replace parts because then you're probably SOL unless you replace EVERYTHING. Such products have their place.

[@CJ-jo6do]

@@knurlgnar24 when I get ahold of them, the sealer didn't work.😅 But I agree with you, the issue is if you had to do any repairs after it's in the system. I wonder just how prevalent it will be with the new R1234yf refrigerant, that stuff is crazy expensive, and more and more newer vehicles are starting to use it.

[@bryjasman6348]

Since covid all the prices are up 404a used to be like 7 dollars a lb now it's about 35 a lb

[@miguelgarcia213]

Brother your explanation in layman's terms of how the freon works and how the system in general works is so useful, and very much appreciated!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are most welcome!

[@thewatchersofthewood3530]

This is a great video with good info, I have been in HVAC for 15 years. Just be aware there is no accurate way to know how much refrigerant is left in a leaking system by pressures. If you have 2lbs leak out of a 3lb system it will show about the same static pressure at rest. Of course When its running pressures will be lower and have bad performance. For best result recover and check for leaks. Topping off is only temporary. Also never fill a leaking system with flammable refrigerants!! I have charged an old Mercedes R12 system with r600 (butane) and it worked perfectly even better than r12 though did ultrasonic leak detection first to make sure no leaks! Its still running almost 10 years later though its still risky if the evaporator lets go and you cabin fills with butane 😂.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.

[@brnmcc01]

Well, how much butane is in the system, and what's the interior cubic volume of the car? You might not even reach the flammability limit of R600a. Another way to be safe, is never ever use the recirc mode function. That way if there ever is a leak, the constant supply of fresh air will dilute and flush out the flammable gas from your car. That's why in Europe and some chest freezers here in USA use R600a for a refrigerant, they've figured the 4 ounce charge in those small units wouldn't be enough to start a fire even if it all leaked inside with the door closed. It's just too lean of a mixture.

[@ryelor123]

I'd recommend replacing the reciever-drier or accumulator if you're going to use a flammable refrigerant. That way its far less likely that the evaporator will leak since its the water in the system that corrodes them.

[@thewatchersofthewood3530]

@@brnmcc01 The system needed 4.5lbs of r12. I do not remember what amount of r600 or possibly r290 I used in there but no where near the r12 capacity as was going by pressures. It was I believe 10 yers ago and still working. Definitely changed the receiver dryer and pulled a deep vacuum.

[@mr.gutwrench]

If you needed another reason to quit smoking, that would be a good one.

[@aydin2005ozdemir]

Your videos are the only ones that i never skip forward. Perfect explanation, objective setup, solid evidence for every experiment...

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@many-points]

The GMT800 platform has such a good AC system! Capable of freezing both front and rear passengers even in hot weather. Whoever designed the GMT800 AC I would love to meet and shake their hand for a job well done.

[@clevelandrocksdzd]

Yeah they cool so good

[@jordanabendroth6458]

I have an early 2000s GMC pickup and even in 90 degree weather and me being a person who is always hot, that AC will make me way too cold after half an hour, it's ridiculous how good the AC on my 350,000 mile truck is

[@happytrails1963]

they did nice job for sure, sometimes its so cold it feels good to get out of silverado and warm back up and its been in the 90's here recently ☃ ❄

[@funone8716]

Yes the mob likes to use GM vehicles because it keeps the stiff in the back seat cool and not stinking up things.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@KMiller-p4n]

You are the gold standard of product reviews, Thank you for creating them! I have been researching devices and phone apps for detecting hidden cameras and surveillance equipment when staying in vacation rentals and hotels. There are videos out there but no one does reviews products like PF. Perhaps this could be a future video. Thanks again for your great reviews!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@elcastorgrande]

Todd, you're a born teacher. Even I could understand how a refrigeration system works.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@nathancervantes6001]

@@elcastorgrande If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't understand it yourself. Albert Einstein

[@robwebster1098]

Another idea! Testing brake fluids to see what differences there maybe between name brands and oem brake fluids. Which absorbs water fastest? Which resists heat and breaking down? Which handles pressure better? Maybe test dot 3, dot 4, dot 5 to see differences there. I think that would be a great test, especially if you are getting ready to do a brake change.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@kypparmstrong2775]

@@ProjectFarmTest the brake fluids for boiling point as well please!

[@ryelor123]

Brake fluids are very standardized due to regulations thus all Dot 5.1 fluids will all have the same chemistry and stats. Its not like oil where there are different engines and additive packages due to variations in vehicles.

[@therealdojj]

And finally, the video is you may or may not be asking about at the end, water filters for your home for not just filtering the water but also softening it too Thanks again Todd 👍

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@gutrali]

​@@ProjectFarmplease do this^^. But also find a way to measure the microplastics when comparing against RO filters. Get the equipment that helps you measure microplastics yourself, because I am positive that you will be using it in the future........

[@justinr9753]

I'd like to see a petri dish test to test when they are new and at the end of their recommended schedule would be interesting

[@TheLocalGeek]

@@ProjectFarm My recommendation is to compare vehicle headlight bulbs. Thank you for all of the great videos.

[@Thumper68]

Who wants soft water all slimy feeling and nasty. If you use the proper filters it won’t soften the water very much. The minerals in water are what gives it flavor.

[@ByronCbyzi4]

I have zero specific interest in refrigeration, but I watched the whole 13m video on the edge of my seat and I feel like I have some knowledge now. Thanks again.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for watching!

[@andreasguntoro5399]

This is exactly what I feel every time he releases a new video on things that I have zero knowledge of. They are worth every second of my time.

[@leothetiger13]

Im an appliance tech that does sealed system repair. Awesome to see you use the right gear and terminology. Its just a little diffetent for auto air conditioning

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@bn880]

he isnt using the right terminology

[@leothetiger13]

@bn880 where was he incorrect In His terminology?

[@bn880]

@@leothetiger13 for example calling almost everything freon

[@leothetiger13]

@bn880 regarding the seal system itself just because he calls the coolant Freon sounds a little pedantic to me. Considering that it does the same thing that freon does and I'm an appliance Tech not a auto mechanic so he was speaking correctly as far as I was concerned

[@KingfishStevens-di9ji]

Propane as a refrigerant has been used in industrial applications for many years.

[@viktorakhmedov3442]

AMMONIA TOO

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@volvo09]

It's now becoming more common in small refrigeration systems, just without the odorant, and in small quantities.

[@RebelCowboysRVs]

​@@viktorakhmedov3442 ammonia was most commonly used in RV refrigerators as I understand it. The ones that cool through the use of a propane flame.

[@bairfamilyfarm1336]

Judging by the pressures, I don't think any of those refrigerants were R290.

[@Bakachu7]

That's a huge amount of work that went into testing each substitute! Well done, Todd. It looks like going with the real stuff not only performs better but it's safer.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@JJN603]

man you are such an amazing teacher, you could legit create a whole new sub genre of learning for stuff like this to become legitimate lessons to teach people how to do intricuite things like this. your amazing man

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@davidmollard9832]

Propane is a refrigerant, R-290. At this time I'm seeing it in small refrigeration equipment, beverage coolers, salad lines things like that.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@friedpancakes266]

Unless something changes, it will stay that way. In the US, usage in capacities beyond 16 ounces is illegal. Around the world, propane and other hydrocarbons are used in cars. That usage is banned in the US due to the explosive potential of a refrigerant leak. It's used in commercial coolers and residential refrigerators and works very well

[@KlodFather]

@@ProjectFarm - Brother and I converted his semi airconditioning system over to propane LOL. He refilled it if needed with Coleman cylinders. They also sell adapters from Propane cylinders to Butane cans for camping stoves but they make great adapters for boat air horns and also filling car systems with camp stove Propane which works, but works better with an expansion valve change. Something to look into. A boat air horn will blow your head off with Propane and make you eyes switch sockets. Its MUCH louder and higher note due to smaller molecule than R-134. I still have a few of those crazy adapters. They facilitate a lot of fun :)

[@KlodFather]

@@friedpancakes266 - Yep... Purified clean Propane is colder and works better than R-12 or R-134. Its a great refrigerant. R-12 was developed to replace Propane due to flammability.

[@weevilsnitz]

Yes, it is starting to be used in some refrigeration tech but with any system it should be designed around the functionality of that refrigerant and the refrigerant used should be the one called for, not an "equivalent replacement"/

[@bmartin7828]

I had no idea there was fake R134a on the market. I’ve charged dozens of vehicles with R134a with my manifold system on mine and family cars, and R12 back in the day. Glad to know this exists. Thank you Todd, I’ve been watching all your videos for years.

[@tmlf1239]

It's not fake R134a, though. All the cans indicated it was a R-134a substitute. And it if it's propane/butane, a lot of cans indicate they are compatible with systems already containing R-134a. And I've used them to top off R-134a before too without problem. We've had plenty of these cans for sale in Canada and everyone knows they are propane/butane mixtures. Now that R-134a is no longer sold in Canada, except to some licensed people, these cans are all normal people can get here.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@johnpublic6582]

@@tmlf1239 When is Canada going to outlaw bacon to protect you from the possible risk of one day maybe coming down with heart disease?

[@Dosbomber]

@@johnpublic6582 They already have something called "Canadian bacon"... which isn't bacon.

[@MoneyManHolmes]

They should have called it Substitute or Alternative on the can. Calling it Replacement makes some buyers think it’s simply more R-134A to replace what has leaked out. But who would buy this on Amazon anyway… every Walmart I’ve been to stocks this by the pallet.

[@Carstuff111]

My grandparents had a 1997 Chevrolet Silverado at one time they bought used, it had a damaged condenser and they did not realize it for about a month after buying the truck. They had a shop replace the condensor and check the system over. When they got the truck back, on a 110*F Texas summer day, I was riding around with them from Dallas, Texas back to Paris, Texas freezing my butt off in the back seat and was stunned to see a light frost had built up on the center AC vents. The funniest thing to me was my grandfather had been complaining that R-134a doesn't work as well as R-12 did. He was no longer complaining about R-134a. I swear that truck could have been used as a locker for dry aging meats.

[@justinr9753]

I've had a 1999 Toyota that would have frost build up Texas during the summer too

[@Discretesignals]

That's not good. That could mean the evaporator was freezing up. All systems should never go below 32F, so they use thermal cut off switches. If the evaporator and lines ice up, you can end up damaging the compressor.

[@RickBaconsAdventures]

R134a can work great in systems that were engineered for it. Putting it in a system that was made for R12 never works worth a flying crap.

[@jamesm568]

Those trucks as always had cold air conditioning when they're properly maintained. An extra can also helps.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for sharing!

[@white24valve]

My 05 Chevy 2500hd with the Duramax has 383,000 miles and the other day i replaced condenser, suction,discharge,and liquid line,and the the drier. I got the same temp results.Driving at 65 miles my temps were 42,43 degrees in which i would have thought more air hitting the condesor and more air flow it would have hit mid 30's degrees. But when i got home sitting in the driveway in park it was 39,40 degrees. Not complaing that a truck with those miles and 20 years old xan make those kinda of temps. Thanks for your informative videos!!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@ericerto8250]

Love this guy one of my favorite creators on this platform I've been watching him since the very beginning and I've learned so much. I have been able to make many educated buys because of these videos thank you project farm

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@ericerto8250]

@@ProjectFarm like I said you are the best and I have been watching you since the very beginning. I remember when you're painting video first came out that was one that really stood out to me. I just love the time and effort and thought and the unique ways you come up with fairly testing everything and I really respect the fact that you're unbiased

[@jeremyhale6403]

A comparison of the various gutter guards would be fantastic. There are so many on the market and it's difficult to know which ones work vs. which would continually get clogged, can't handle heavy rain, etc. Love the video as usual! Thanks

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@glasslinger]

Propane and isobutane mixture.Very close to freon 12 pressure curve.

[@bn880]

yep

[@thinkfirst6431]

You told me everything I needed to know in the first couple of minuets or so. Super Tech R-134A is real. Worked for me. What I was wondering about was the VEVOR equipment you were using. I purchased a VEVOR 12V DC fuel transfer pump and put it on a 100 gallon diesel transfer tank that I mounted in the back of my truck. Filled the tank with 95 gallons of diesel and took off on a 2200 mile round trip. I usually Fill the transfer tank and use it to control the cost of diesel when I travel and also I can stop where, and more or less when, I want or need to add more fuel to the trucks main tank. This was a shake down trip for the truck after I had worked on the engine and kind of get to know it as I had purchased it used to replace one that was stolen. I changed the way I fueled on the way out in that I ended up stopping for fuel all the way out to check the mileage so ended up in another state with the transfer tank full. The tank was a 750 lb brick in the back of the tank all the way out plus about another 750 pounds of stuff moving from one place to another. So when I started back I ran on the main until it was about empty. Stopped at a rest area to fill the main tank. THE BRAND NEW VEVOR FUEL TRANSFER PUMP FAILED to move a single drop of diesel from the transfer tank to the main tank. I got lucky in that the rest area was near a town where I could get diesel which is unusual for me as I usually stop in more remote locations. 7 each 30 amp fuses later it still had not pumped a drop of diesel so carried that brick all the way back to the starting point. Not impressed with VEVOR products. Definitely not built tougher at 1/2 the price. The results of the forced mileage check? 17.22 MPH at 70 MPH over 1112 miles and return trip towing a 5000 lb empty trailer back a 65 MPH 13.27 MPG over 1176 miles. The truck 2006 Ford F250 Crew Cab 4X4 long bed with 6.0L diesel engine 3.73 gears. Not bad for a little work.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!~ Thanks for sharing.

[@Roadhammer42]

In depth, excellent research. I did a propane/isobutane substitute on an R12 system decades ago due to removal of R12 from the market. Changed to appropriate orifice tube and the system ran great, although it is a fire hazard. I wouldn't do it on a modern system. Episode suggestion, a review on automatic darkening helmet lenses with a comparison to a static lense. Response time and image quality would be a good assessment. I've been finding they do darken but most of them are too dark outside the weld puddle and makes it harder to track the weld.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for sharing.

[@X85283]

I’ve done this too. It’s not that much propane compared to the amount of other flammable things in a car. R12 may not be flammable but it forms phosgene gas if exposed to flame. I’d rather be near a car fire with propane igniting than phosgene. Only a tiny puff of that shit can be fatal, it was the most deadly weapon in WWI.

[@RangerOfTheOrder]

I do find it funny when a product clearly says its not XYZ, then people leave bad reviews because they thought it was XYZ.

[@viktorakhmedov3442]

YA THEY DONT WANNA ADMIT THEY GOT SCREWED LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL x💯

[@antilogism]

I see that a lot on Amazon.

[@laurensa.1803]

Reading is apparently an actual skill...?

[@kikixchannel]

Yeah. It's a plague in comments. However, in the case of the second one, it is a little bit more acceptable since the can has a big 134a on it as 'brand name', with a small 'replacement' that may suggest it is 134a for replacing what you already have. Though the item description on the product page leaves no doubt to it being a different product. The first one however is perfectly clear on not bei 134a in every way possible.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@AStarshipTrooper]

Being a refrigeration tech I would say that most likely the refrigerant being used in the R-134A (C2,H2,F4) replacement is R-152A (C2,H4,F2) which is a flammable gas. I would not recommend putting this in your vehicle, in the possibility of anything damaging the refrigeration tubing or system could lead to a possible fire or explosion like expansion of flammable gas. The reason why you see lower performance out of the vehicle is due to R-152A having a lower volumetric cooling capacity around 5% less than R-134a. R-152A having a higher a higher hydrogen concentration is what leads to it's flammability most likely. R-1234yf (C3,H2,F4) is used in many modern cars after 2020, it is also a semi flammable refrigerant. The difference between the flammability of R-152A and R-1234YF is probably due to the burning velocity of R-152A being faster than R-1234YF. Most modern refrigerators and freezers are going to R-600A(Isobutane) and R-290(Propane) which are highly flammable. The use of flammable refrigerants are being introduced to Refrigeration and HVAC applications is because the supposed environmental hazards and GWP(Global Warming Potential) of other refrigerants. A lot of flammable refrigerants could potentially be dangerous to people if accidents happen but they have either low or zero GWP(Also cheaper to manufacture most likely) than non flammable refrigerants. Thank you for testing these refrigerants and showing how these refrigerants can be dangerous.

[@phizc]

I checked the SDS for the ZeroR r134a replacement. It just says Liquid Petroleum Gas 99% + odorant 0.75% and dye 0.25%. Even they don't know the refrigerant mix it seems. It's just LNG. Also, their claim of zero GWP is ridiculous. Yes, it's probably only a few percent of that of r134a's 1600, but it's still several times that of CO2.

[@davesaunders7080]

Geeze the 15 gallons of gas in the tank?

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for sharing!

[@davidg3517]

The R-134a replacement I bought is labeled as 12a refrigerant. I don't have the composition on the can, it just says a blend of hydrocarbons. Looking up 12a on Wikipedia will tell you 12a is a blend of propane and isobutane.

[@brnmcc01]

@@phizc R290 has a GWP of 3. So it's "only" 3 times as bad as CO2, but you also have to take into account the realistic atmospheric lifetime of whatever gas. In fact, there really wasn't anything wrong with R22, it took about 20 years for it to break down, and about 20 years to make it into the ozone layer so it only had an ODP of about 0.05. The problem with R12 was, it was such a stable gas that the atmospheric lifetime of R12 and R11 is like over 100 years. For comparison, the GWP of R404A or R410 is 1000's of times worse than C02... so it's not even in the same ballpark as R290/600.

[@Dc5Knightv2]

This is awesome. Technician here, and I've always just use the AC machines at work, Everytime I've tried with the Parts store cans with the nozzle or small cans with hoses and gauges I just don't get the steps and always do it wrong. Idk if its just me lol, great video alot of knowledge on tools

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for sharing.

[@JayWalkerOnline]

I'm literally licensed to work on A/C systems and to know the risks of refrigerant and you know more than me. Kudos, sir!

[@LitheInLitotes]

License don't mean much

[@jonanderson5137]

Tells you all you need to know about 99% of the guys in the trade.

[@Execute_Order_66_DO_IT]

I'm literally not licensed to work on anything and know more than most licensed people. I do have a license to drive.

[@greenidguy9292]

That doesn’t mean you know what you’re doing…lol

[@greenidguy9292]

“Literally” That says a lot…

[@danven1256]

One of my spare vehicles is a 91 Mazda pickup with the 2200 engine which produces about 80 horsepower. With the phase out of R12 I converted it to an r134 system, but due to the low horsepower it really put a drag on my performance, and the system did not function very well. I switched over to the Zero R and it was a huge performance improvement. It's 111° today and my wife is using the truck to move some furniture. She hasn't complained about the AC so it must still be working well.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@light12a]

@@ProjectFarm I am considering Envirosafe refrigerant. There used to be an R-12 specific and and r123 specific, now it is all in one. They claim 40% increase in performance.

[@weswest8666]

I had similar power loss on a four banger, it was from too much oil in the refrigerant.

[@bhinkle530]

I have had good success with an R134 substitute called Enviro-Safe. It's a 60/40 propane and isobutane mix. A similar blend has been used by auto manufacturers in eastern Europe and parts of Asia for many years, due to its performance and cost savings. Yes, it's flammable, but so is gasoline. Also, people have been driving propane powered vehicles for decades. Cars, pickups, forklifts, farm tractors, semi trucks, school and city buses just to name a few. But it does have many things to recommend it. In my experience it out performs R134 by a noticeable amount. The A/C in my old 99 GMC Suburban was significantly colder after switching. The molecule of the refrigerant is a lot larger than R134, so you will have significantly fewer small leaks. As such, it is also compatible with old R12 systems with no modifications needed. It operates at a lower high side pressure, reducing strain on the system and lowering the amount of engine power needed to turn the compressor, increasing (by a very small amount) fuel economy! It also doesn't deplete the ozone layer. And lastly, it costs quite a bit less. Of course, use only if you have done all the necessary research and due diligence, and have followed all appropriate safety measures. Then, it is a viable and economic replacement refrigerant.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@BigDish101]

That's a great mix for old R12 vehicles actually. We used to manually make the mix with a bottle of camping propane and a lighter refill can of butane.

[@robink.9459]

Excellent explanation! Here in Germany/EU R134a cannot be purchased by private persons due to it's high environmental impact. That is also why taxes also have exploded for commercial buyers, which is why filling your AC will set you back at least several hundred bucks here. LPG has just the right mixture of Propane/Butane, so you can fill your entire AC for as low as 2 bucks. Yes, it is flammable and that is a drawback, but the amount is quite small. I think this is also a cheap and viable option to see if your AC system is working at all before filling it with R134a and risk releasing the equivalent of 1 ton of CO2 into the atmosphere. However, these cans are still a bit of a scam as they charge way more than what a regular can of Propane/Butane costs, that doesn't has "R134a replacement" printed on.

[@joemamr710]

The difference is AC systems are under high pressure and frequently leak, unlike fuel systems. Your gasoline isn’t under 180psi

[@sverreytterdal7167]

I have also been trying out this enviro-safe R134a replacement gass for around 5 years now on my daily beater. It does the job nicely. I do however have a leak somewhere, so i have to top it up after a year or so. No fires yet😅

[@ljprep6250]

Another great video, Todd. You're really branching out. I took Auto A/C at UTI in Phoenix in '72. After graduating, I got a job at an A/C shop, installing a 3rd party air conditioning system to new trucks for a dealer. It was all R-12 back then, the the air coming out of the dash vents was an icy SEVENTEEN DEGREES when the outside air was 118F. Those were the days. I watched a vid on installing a mini-split system the other day, and the guy said that anyone can get the EPA license for proper HVAC handling fairly cheap, then save thousands on installing your own systems. Now that you have half the equipment (gauges, recovery mach, etc.) you might try a video on something like that.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@Tackleb3rry]

Awesome video as always! Future video idea: fire cabinets (wood vs metal) With many power tools going to battery and many stories about garage and home fires due to batteries and/or chargers, I’d love to get a fire cabinet to keep my batteries in.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the idea!

[@ricksanchez7459]

Was thinking about this the other day I saw an ebike catch apartment on fire. Could just as easily been a drill battery

[@gage562]

Love your videos, including this one. But don't use empty disposable bottles as a recovery tank! That's not safe or legal to do. Only use a proper recovery tank. 6:45

[@sonorangaming449]

Can't wait to see the results. What about Ammeters?

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the suggestion!

[@Kimblesgarage]

Project farm is such good KZbin. Entertaining, educational, thorough and unbiased.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@TimHuntoon]

ok can we appreciate the fact this man literally tests everything that i worry about putting in a mechanical device

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@boltyk1]

That's the purpose of the whole channel

[@TimHuntoon]

@@boltyk1 I know its refreshing

[@jamesgallagher1992]

That freon recovery machine looks sooo happy..or chilled😂😂👍

[@shroompicn-shrooman]

Fun fact. We used to use dry ice and an empty tank with a vacuum pulled on it . Before dedicated recovery machines were a thing

[@papimasfuerte4671]

the "fake" refrigerant is Propane. Nothing wrong with it but doesn't perform well in car AC systems. Propane is R290, which is used for industrial meat freezers as propane is a better refrigerant for freezing temperatures. The reason propane works poorly in car system is the system gets too cold and the EVAP core actually starts to freeze up from moisture, causing blockage of airflow and higher tempratures. I've tried straight propane in car AC. If you want to run propane in car AC system, the pressures need to be different than R134a. If you fill up with propane to R134a pressures, the EVAp core freezes or the compressor goes to constant clutch cycling.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@DarkAttack14]

Not many people realize this! There is a proper pressure graph available online for R290 that goes by ambient pressure.. but of course you want to fill by weight not pressure... and car manufacturers only give you the weight for r134a, wonder if there is a conversion chart

[@analool7873]

@@DarkAttack14 The conversion is simple if you know what actual substance you are filling into your system. You are right that you want to fill by weight and not by pressure, as the pressure will stay constant, due to the property called vapor pressure. You actually want to fill by volume, so you do not flood the compressor with liquid refrigerant, which will cause damage due to hydrolocking. Just like an engine should not intake water. You can first calculate how much volume is supposed to be in the system under r134a. For this you divide density of r134a by the mass, thats prescribed. Now you know how much volume of r134a should be in the system. Then you take the density of the replacement refrigerant and mutltiply it with the Volume calculated previously. This will only give you a rough calculation, to not completely overfill the system. For a really precise calculation you have to know the Volume of the system itself, to calculate how much of the refrigerant is liquid at what temperature or pressure. And most commonly the replacement gas is not pure propane, but a mix of butane and propane (R600 and R290 respectively). This is done to shift the vapor pressures so that it more or less resembles the vapor pressures of r134a

[@analool7873]

I filled mine with R290 as well. Mine cycles constantly to prevent icing up, because the evap temp drops too low. A mix at a specific ratio between r290 and r600 can be used to mitigate that. This is what these replacement gases are actually (at least in germany).

[@theblukatlife]

What could be the reason that a corolla 2015 blows warm air when stopping at a red light and then it blows cold air after awhile and when moving again? Is that normal?

[@howeelectric]

I love your narration style! The timbre and speed of reading the script is spot on. You should consider doing voice overs for other channels as well.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@toysforboysrc]

PF speaks so thoroughly and quickly that I need to dial down the playback speed so I can file this new information into its proper folder and file it under “auto a/c” or else I’ll never remember all of this 😂

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@toysforboysrc]

@@ProjectFarm … I’m just being funny no complaints😎

[@Pho7on]

@@toysforboysrc If he slows down I'm coming after you O.O He's the only youtuber that doesn't intentionally waste my time (j/k)

[@toysforboysrc]

@@Pho7on .. agreed 👌

[@toysforboysrc]

@@Pho7on … Idk but I’m smelling a “World’s Fastest” product review video coming to up lol. Following competition sponsored by Amazon.

[@carlosedwardos]

Just understand that all a gauge can do is get you in the ballpark. The only way to accurately charge a car's refrigerant to the correct level, is to pull and vacuum on the system and WEIGH IN the correct system charge amount. Going by a gauge will pretty much always leave you somewhat over or under-charged, and neither is good for optimal cooling and efficiency.

[@brandonosborne6894]

Having dealt with two old cars converted from R12, driving the vehicle until it cycles at the correct temp is the only way to tell if the charge is right in an OCCT system. Not sure about POA or the modern H-TXV. Temp and humidity are too variable where I live to rely on gauage pressures alone. Weight only applies to a system getting the original designed refrigerant, and yeah, it's the best way by far.

[@o.m.a.4670]

Had a 96 Tercel with a sight glass in the line. I used to fill (had a small leak around the compressor) it until the bubbles went away, then shut it off, and it blew colder than any car I ever had.

[@stevecooper8121]

​@@o.m.a.4670 my 96 corolla had that same sight glass, toyota always seem to have had the best a/c back in the 90s.

[@aspecreviews]

​@@o.m.a.4670I have a 2002 Prius, it has a belt driven air conditioning compressor with a special "cold-storage" evaporator core so it keeps cooling at a traffic light with the engine off. The official spec is an additional 100 g of refrigerant AFTER the bubbles in the sight glass disappear.

[@Discretesignals]

Have fun charging an ac system using a variable displacement compressor using pressures. You can't charge newer systems using pressures and expect good performance. They use much less refrigerant. Just being a couple of ounces off can affect their performance.

[@ocularpressure4558]

Thanks for always doing amazing work because we me&friends always check your videos before we purchase anything not anything but a lot lol

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@macamanpirate562]

Hey bud love your videos but there’s one thing you may be missing on this one. The epa is phasing out HFC refrigerants due to the global warming potential or what not. R134a is also being phased out which is why those companies are most likely selling what we call drop in refrigerants in the hvac side of things. These refrigerants are designed to meet epa requirements while also keeping a system that will not be able to have its original refrigerant used.

[@Brian_L_5168]

You title this video PERFECTLY b/c those fake A/C refrigerant small fine prints truly MISLEAD consumers. Great presentation & great service to the public as always 👋

[@davesaunders7080]

Next it will be cars have dangerous flammable substances in them! Beware!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@md93-z5e]

It's not even fine print. People just don't bother reading the product listing or even looking at the can before buying. Both products very clearly say "replacement" and "equivalent."

[@WizardSoon]

Thank you very much Todd! I am sticking with r134a

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.

[@WizardSoon]

@@ProjectFarm I never knew it was a fire hazard. If your car caught fire, these r134a replacement will end up fueling the fire and burn your car down. Nope, not getting the natural gas r134a replacement. It's a hazard to me and should be banned.

[@bn880]

why, he didnt test them properly and also just panics because its possible to burn them. like gasoline...

[@TheRocco28]

I used Duracool for a few years in a 1996 Chevy Blazer 4.3. It did the job and I didn’t blow up!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@thomasblanco5217]

Heard good stuff about duracool ... Met rep years back still haven't tried out yet ..

[@davesaunders7080]

I used it for years in my 1997 Tercel, worked fantastic and I'm still here too!

[@Rosher18]

It's been a few years since I've had one of your videos recommended. I'm very impressed that your format has only improved and expanded! Keep up the awesome work! I just removed about 2 ounces of R134a from my car using a refrigerant can in a bowl of iced brine because the compressor was engaging a bit hard and it was shutting off to prevent fluid ingestion. (Would restart after a few seconds but the conditioned air would become clammy before the compressor kicked back on). Thanks for sharing the correct way to do all this!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@DaYoda191]

In Canada we can't buy actual R134a in these cans, you have to take it to a shop to get it done. However you probably should do that anyway because of your system is low on refrigerant there's probably a leak.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@Argedis]

That's not true. All car A/Cs loose refrigerant over (albeit a long period) time because they are not 100% sealed. The shaft in the compressor needs to be able to spin, if it was truly sealed it wouldn't spin so they lose refrigerant. For example my 2001 Tacoma was low on refrigerant and I re-charged it 3 years ago and it's still blowing ice cold today. No leak, just ran low over 20 years

[@N4HHE]

Has been known for decades that propane was nearly equivalent to R12. That unscrupulous used car dealers might use really cheap propane rather than (once upon a time) $1.50/pound R12.

[@jimmddaniel]

Its better than r12. Dont run a full system of propane unless you want to make ice

[@mech0p]

its sad that almost all sales industries have been taken over by scumbags. Same goes for most trades as well.

[@NoReason801]

Your thermal camera and ir thermometer is reading surface temperature of the plastic duct, not air temperature

[@viktorakhmedov3442]

The duct has such low mass it's probably fairly close in temperature if it's been blowing for a while.

[@mustardmp5]

Love your videos! Never buy anything without checking your channel first. I would love to see videos comparing portable steam cleaners and spot cleaners.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@aisback1990]

Just what I needed. I need to recon my car as it’s not as cold as it should be.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you

[@alexflosho]

Well, I thought my AC was pretty good, not blowing hot. Then this guy comes with his sub-40 degree vent temps.

[@rupe53]

Those extra cold temps are typical of GM vehicles. If it was a newer MOPAR, we'd be pushing 50 degrees while driving.

[@jordanabendroth6458]

​​@@rupe53can confirm, I have an early 2000s GMC pickup and using an infrared thermometer like he was using, my AC will output like 35-45 degree air and sometimes running it for too long I legitimately get too cold and have to turn it down so it's not cooling quite as much. The only time I've seen it become entirely useless was last summer I went to the dump and the line was super long to get weighed and it was like 102 that day and so after like 20 minutes of sitting in place not moving, the AC was not blowing cold air anymore because the fan couldn't move enough air over the condenser. Once I got moving though, the air temperature came right back down to where it should be

[@lazygamer9725]

I've always said gm got 1 thing right!!! Them ac don't play!!! I've drove everything under the sun and gm vehicles I've had or got now blow 🧊 cold 🥶 I have had to turn them down even in this MS heat... last week heat index was 110... driving 2 hrs to make a delivery and had to cut it down... legs where freezing.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@zacharymorris9917]

GM, Toyota and Honda have always been top dogs in the AC department. Especially GM truck platforms.

[@JSFGuy]

For real, I've been running hydrocarbon refrigerants since 99 It does work better. In 2 minutes it'll bottom out about 37° at idle so. My Cars are mad cold. Enviro safe FTW

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the information

[@JSFGuy]

@@ProjectFarm I have what you're using I have not used it yet. Fortunately GM AC systems are very accommodating and cooperative for this. Doing this is very tricky on several systems.

[@somedreybloke]

Which ones do you use specifically?

[@Dieselolds]

Tried the Enviro safe in my 89 Caprice, got crazy cold AC.

[@steveskouson9620]

The compressor on the house AC was leaking pretty bad, acouple years ago, and R-20 was MAD expensive, so I used some R-290 I got from Home D. 15 pound bottles, refilled, for about $20 or so. Yep, BBQ grade R-290. Had to refill a couple times a week, but that one bottle lasted all summer. (Landlord bought a replacement, when the weather cooled down, in the fall.) steve

[@humbertoisabeles5590]

Thanks project farm !!! This is one of the most useful and entertaining channels that i know of !!! 😊

[@JohnD-JohnD]

DuPont owns the patents for pretty much every refrigerant that has come out. It's really strange that every time the patent runs out, they come out with a new refrigerant with a new patent and laws are passed to make it mandatory. The new mandatory refrigerant R1234yf is also flammable.

[@pizzablender]

Propane (R290) could be used as well. It is on the way in for home A/C. And could definitely work in cars as well. But indeed Dupont and co wouldn't make money on it. But it would be a boon environmentally.

[@TheZigZiggy]

Exactly ... refrigerants are heavier than air and there is no way possible for them to get up into the ozone layer. It's all a hoax to prevent third party competition that would bring the prices down. Follow the money .. to DuPont and the politicians.

[@joeroe2839]

Money talks , go see dark waters 😂😂

[@stankymcgee6742]

Once the patent runs its corse, DuPont decides to use its bureaucratic pull to make that particular product illegal due to claims of being unsafe for the environment so other companies cannot make it anymore. It's a great way for a company (DuPont in this case) to keep competing companies from cutting into DuPont's bottom line.

[@stankymcgee6742]

*course

[@Dysiode]

10 minutes ago and still over 100 comments! Very Impressive! Edit: There's been some really impressive strides on propane based heat pumps, which is probably what the "alternatives" here are, but I definitely wouldn't want to use them in my car!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@RATCHETMAN1001]

yep 20 gallons of gas underneath aint so good either

[@cammelspit]

All I can say is, THANK YOU. Thanks for actually showing the proper recovery of waste gas. Try and find a video about AC in cars where they don't just vent it to the atmosphere, it's tough as nails.

[@Owen-xw8cs]

If that was the case he would have had a legal recovery tank instead of the cheap knockoff vevor that nobody will exchange making this about the same as venting into the atmosphere

[@TerryJonesPrinterRepairs]

From a logical point He didn't really need to recover the butane propane charge as it occurs naturally as it came from the earth. 134a is man made and needs to be recovered.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@3beltwesty]

Once use to use a pump or another running cars compressor and pump the gas back into a 30 LB R12 jug. That waS PRE 1990 when they had 2 way valves on jugs.

[@douglasmayherjr.5733]

Pretty good video. I do commercial HVACR for the past 25 years. The only minor issue I seen was when recovering, there are different vacuum levels that need to be attained to be technically complete. Usually 10 to 15” is preferable. Otherwise a great explanation and video. Thanks for all your testing.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@elivaughan1192]

Great stuff. I didnt even know there were fake refrigerants... Good to know. Also.. i recently bought a tarp for a fair amount of money and it is junk... Maybe tarps could go on your list of tests one day? They can get quite expensive and you dont know what youll get until you get it and use it.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@MugRuith]

Good idea.

[@Discretesignals]

They are called blends. The EPA's SNAP program has a list of approved refrigerants to use in mobile ac systems. Those refrigerants have been tested and are considered safe to use.

[@nikking5277]

Great video as always!

[@JSFGuy]

Even though it is only played for 1 minute you haven't watched it yet?

[@ProjectFarm]

I appreciate that

[@otarsulava]

Suggested video: HYDRATION BACKPACKS - for hiking or cycling. Example brands: Water Buffalo, TETON, MARCHWAY, Camelbak, Thule, High Sierra....

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@MapleHillMunitions]

I've save you some time. Source hydration systems.

[@ravingbadger]

good one

[@usernameisusername]

I threw my camelback away. Pita to clean. Kinda a gross concept

[@MapleHillMunitions]

@@usernameisusername source has some coating inside that prevents buildup. I haven't bought anything since Israeli went to war though so good luck on shipping .

[@ExAstrisScientia]

I would love to you do the same video using compressed gas dusters (r152a Difluoroethane). You can buy a side can tap from Napa autoparts to fill the system. If you buy a multi pack from Costco, it would definitely be the cheapest way to recharge an a/c system, and when the time comes to repair or replace components on the system you don’t have to recover the gas, as it’s obviously legal to release it into the air.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@WatchSkuntHay]

HVAC tech here. You did amazing. That’s is excatly how we do it. Except with just some minor tools. Low loss fittings and micron gauges but this is great.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@Gearhead0818]

Can you make a video of laundry detergent tide vs the world are they the best or not

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@ardiemclelland2039]

in canada if you put this fake refrigerant in your vehicle any reputable shop will not touch it and will immediately know its in your system. The vacuum pumps in most ac shops can immediately detect contamination, which is what this fake refrigerant is. R134a is illegal in Canada, I have to get it across the border, I always keep it stock piled.

[@bn880]

doesnt matter, you can empty out your system legally of any hydrocarbon alternatives before going to a shop (vacuum)

[@ardiemclelland2039]

@@bn880 It will still leave enough traces behind to be detected. I learned the hard way years ago. If you wanna use this sh!t at least know what you're doing and own your own equipment.

[@bn880]

@@ardiemclelland2039 nah, propane/isobutane leaves no traces if you vacuum the sucker well enough. they will detect custom dyes but you have to admit to using non specified refrigerant for them to KNOW

[@alaskamulletminer5168]

Been watching this guy since the beginning and he still amazing me on how much he knows, and as an hvac technician he did a perfect job on this video

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@Bryan-Hensley]

Maybe you don't know this but the majority of the appliances, window AC, and portable AC units have flammable refrigerant in them. Next year all HVAC systems manufactured will be using flammable refrigerants. R32, r290 and other blends that's similar

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for sharing!

[@ATruckCampbell]

Vehicles I believe are moving to R134Ya.

[@pizzablender]

@@ATruckCampbell R1234yf perhaps. Anyway R290 will burn hard, but the fluorinated refrigerants in a fire will decompose into extremely toxic stuff.

[@MrSloika]

Refrigerators and window AC units use hard lines that are soldered together. A car AC uses flexible hoses and quick connect fittings. Car AC is much more likely to leak.

[@Bryan-Hensley]

@@MrSloika Yeah right, I own a HVAC company. Those Chinese ACs are more likely to leak. Everything from China is pretty much junk. I've got at least 20 that are junk and I've got 3 vehicles that are 20 plus years old with the original AC. I used to put propane in r12 systems decades ago.

[@Lancemechanics]

As a mechanic in the trade. First thing we use is a a/c contaminant tester. Those bottles that have the sealant in them are a plague for us. they will ruin our machines. If they'res no sealer in there i got no issue, The sealer plugs up orifice tubes and causes expansion valves to slowly jam up.

[@Discretesignals]

They have a sealant leak detector kit. It basically screws onto a service port and allows a small amount of refrigerant to blow through a tiny orfice. If the orifice plugs up, it's got sealant and the whole system needs replaced. Of course, no customer wants to pay the cost of an entire system, but you save your equipment.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for sharing!

[@MonkeyDelicious]

Any product with a leak sealer is not safe for the life of the vehicle.

[@alfredmorency8296]

@@MonkeyDelicious I've known a couple dozen people who have used radiator leak sealer, a/c leak sealer, tire sealer, steering gear sealer, and magic trans rebuild in a can. All but one of them regretted it, the lone exception had a leak in his radiator out in the desert (Before SAT and cell phones, and on a truck with a rebuildable radiator.). He knew it would ruin his radiator but that wasn't as bad as walking out.

[@edifyguy]

@@Discretesignals Why can you not simply solvent flush the system thoroughly, maybe twice? It seems like discarding the entire system is wasteful and unnecessary. That's not to say I think people ought to use the "fix in a can" products; I hate them all. I just don't see why it is automatically necessary to replace everything because someone did.

[@ethanmaiden]

propane once used for a/c was removed due to being flammable, now the new replacement for r134a is flammable, gotta love the government

[@noyb7920]

It's not as flammable as propane/lpg (which this is), and much better for the atmosphere. The replacements were developed by the AC industry, not the government.

[@T_TanksTinkers1066]

@@noyb7920 except 134a becomes a incredibly toxic phosgene gas when burned by a flame where the tiny amount of propane in the these mixes is barely enough to be a issue like... my car would take less then half the charge with this stuff compared to r134a

[@Bandicoot803]

Isobutane is also widely used in imdustrial coolant chambers aswell. And some bakeries inside commercial stores also use carbon dioxide as refrigerant due to its good compression behavior. A good use of greenhouse gas, I'd say.

[@Align700nitro]

@@T_TanksTinkers1066 Guess you haven't seen a brand new fridge blow up took out half of the house.

[@T_TanksTinkers1066]

@@Align700nitro seen a compressor short out an catch fire but never a explosion, but that sounds like a extremely rare case like... getting hit by lightning three times in a row rare

[@annyer262]

Good timing on this one! I just got the suggestion yesterday afternoon. I had just installed a new compressor. I used ES 12a which I think they also call R290 now. My cans show "Envirosafe refrigerant" This stuff cools well and they recommend not pulling a vacuum prior to to charging. I get temps when driving down the road of 38 to 40 F on a 2005 Elantra. Flammable refrigerants seem to be more common. Hydrocarbons. There is a big tank of Hydrocarbon in the back of my car. Weights up to 84 lbs. One more pound does not seem to add too much risk in my mind. A lot of freezers use this type of refrigerant now. People carry this kind of substance in their pockets in a thing called a cigarette lighter! So I will take my chances with is since I do not feel like buying a vacuum pump! Now there is a new trend of using carbon dioxide for HVAC systems. They run at head pressures of 600psi. So the pressures will be this high when warming your house in winter, on the condenser which will be inside your house in this situation. If you have a leak where will the gas go, into the living areas. So is running such a high head pressure refrigerant for heating a good idea? I think not.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for sharing!

[@Colorado_Native]

Suggested video: products to restore the plastic trim, mirrors, etc on your car, such as Turtle Wax Acrylic Trim Restorer, Adam's New Black Trim Restorer, Carfidant Trim & Plastic Restorer, Maguiar's Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer, Chemical Guys VRP, and Cerakote Ceramic Trim Coat Kit, etc. Thanks for all your entertaining, well-edited and informative videos. Well done.

[@otarsulava]

It was tested already, see previous vids on the channel... ✌️

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@mainelife6432]

Another one you may want to try is Rustoleum Wipe New. Todd tested that, and I use it on my 11 year old vehicle. Looks great. By the way, do not expect these to be a permanent solution to faded trim... it will have to be reapplied from time to time, especially in more sun intensive climates than Maine.

[@ml.2770]

FYI, isobutane/propane can replace r12 and r134 and works fantastic. It is a standard refridgerant in much of the world but banned in the USA for 'reasons'. It is legal in Canada and actually works better than r12 and goes by Duracool and Rektek. I'm not sure what your ZeroR actually is but the substitutes available in Canada are excellent. I changed all the gaskets and dryer in my 1991 r12 system in my Dodge pickup and charged it up with isobutane/propane Duracool and it has worked flawlessly now for over a decade. A refridgeration technician that told me about it said it is silly to ban it and that car ac systems in Europe use it as do household refrigerators. It has zero ozone depletion characteristics, doesn't leak out as easily and you need less of it to properly charge a system. r134 is flammable itself so that argument is moot.

[@rdizzy1]

Zero R is just 99% LPG.

[@brnmcc01]

R134A isn't flammable, R1234yf is very slightly flammable so it's classified as an A2L refrigerant. You can force R134A or R12 to burn, you just need a catalyst like hot copper wool to set it on fire and a constant heat source. But none of them can support combustion on it's own like R290 or R600.

[@ml.2770]

@@brnmcc01 My error. I meant to write 1234yf.

[@brnmcc01]

@@ml.2770 No error, there's so many small variants of R1234. R1234ze is another newer one, supposedly a drop in replacement for R134A. But the COP is lower and modifications to the condenser and evaporator designs and to compressor displacement are needed to achieve the same cooling capacity and energetic performance of HFC-134a.

[@brnmcc01]

And then there's R1233zd, but that's being used/developed as a replacement for R123 large commerical low pressure centrifugal chillers. Like in the old days of R11, and Trane CenTraVac systems. The new Trane Series E's in Europe are using R1233zd.

[@tamparockout17]

Also would be great to see cheap vs expensive multimeters and cheap vs expensive 10A 30V regulated benchtop power supplies.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@jordanabendroth6458]

All I can tell you is unless you are on the side of the road and just need a cheap multimeter, don't buy the 6 dollar harbor freight one, I've broken probably 4 of them and at this point could have bought a nicer multimeter, On the other hand I bought a cheap tacklife bench power supply for $40 bucks and even 2 years later it still works just fine

[@boots7859]

@@jordanabendroth6458 Agreed, the HF ones they were giving away free before Covid are now $6-10. For handyman work, any decent name brand DMM for $30 will be fine/overkill. There are a ton of good vids on DMM and PSU's, Todd shouldn't waste his time on such a niche.

[@tamparockout17]

@@jordanabendroth6458 oh yeah I've used anywhere from $5 Walmart multimeters to $200 fluke meters. Just differences between RMS and not, also different abilities like capacitance and inductance. Basically the $30 meter on Amazon that has inductance capacitance and resistance as well, is it just as good as an independent fluke RCS meter.

[@pahanorlando]

Thanks so much for this video! PLEASE make a video specifically about refrigerant recovery and perhaps options for affordable machines. You explained well in this video on how to recover, but not how to add from the recovery tank back to the vehicle. I mean I am sure I can figure it out, but if you make a full video about recovery and adding freon back to the vehicle with recovery machine would be awesome! Been watching your videos forever and will continue so!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@antibrevity]

I worked in HVAC for over a decade, yet *I* sometimes call these refrigerants "freon" and don't give a crap about whether it's a trademark or not. Everyone (above a certain age) knows what "freon" means, just as everyone knows what kleenex are. To be clear, I normally refer to these as "refrigerants" and typically just by name (R-134a, etc), but if I or someone else slips and calls them "freon" I don't mind. No one does except the trademark holders and I don't care what DuPont thinks. Neither should you unless you upload youtube videos that might trigger some reaction from a trademark owner ;).

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@Argedis]

It's like everyone calling cotton swabs Q-Tips. Some people call most chips Doritos or Cheetos. Soda gets called Coke. Some brands are just that popular that they literally BECOME the name.

[@jamessharp9790]

I agree and it’s an acceptable colloquialism not a malapropism like calling a slot screwdriver a flathead- of course that is an accepted term so…

[@BlueOvalEdge]

Agreed. Got a few show off smart ass commentators here that show up at car shows with a Starbucks and tell you that a "motor" is electric. I beat all those pseudo intellectuals in school without getting hung up on colloquial expressions. Now, I need to go and xerox a few things.

[@AquaTech225]

Yep an Baind-Aid ect. Ain’t squat wrong with it. But the run of the mill customer is going to always know Freon may not be the right term. But everyone knows that

[@destinhook3826]

Best channel on KZbin

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@skasev]

Less fear mongering on hydrocarbons! They require 1/3 the weight of HFC’s , 0 ODP and GWP is 3 (R290 propane) compared to 1430 for R134a. A F150 has 900 grams of 134a, replacing with a hydrocarbon would be about 300 grams. That’s like strapping a deodorant can to the front of your car. Never mind the 90 litres of gasoline under you, or the Li-ion battery under you. Hydrocarbons are the best carbons

[@matthewmcauley7982]

I am an Hvac Technician and I have to say great job!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@muromtsev]

One day we'll see how he tests spaceships and redoes all tests in different gravity. You're amazing, huge respect!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@tjf1531]

Wonderful information

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@EricK-jx7lq]

Careful with that 134a tank. Those kinds of tanks are not meant to be reused. Even your actual recovery tank (that I assume came with the recovery machine) isn't preferable. I bought one of those off Amazon, and it leaked. They don't go through the same process the official recovery tank makers do. I don't think you could even exchange it to be recycled, even if you were so inclined. Just don't fill it up to much. We would be devastated if anything happened to you 😞

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the heads up!

[@Owen-xw8cs]

@@EricK-jx7lq the main problem is it’s not dot approved and nobody will exchange it. Yes the goofy float valve inside the tank is not to be trusted as well

[@cardinaloflannagancr8929]

@tommyq374 It's funny how supposedly environmentally conscious countries claim to be yet many things needlessly are made throw away. When they can either be re-used or a simple design change would allow that.

[@EricK-jx7lq]

@@cardinaloflannagancr8929 it's not legal for us to reuse them in the residential and commercial trades. We have to use the official recovery tanks. They're thoroughly tested and even have to have burst test, where they fill them until they explode. They can have as much as 60 lbs of recovered refrigerant, so they need to be much stronger than the tanks they come in.

[@2bnax]

@@ProjectFarm THAT TANK IS DESIGNED TO AT "LEAST" HOLD THE AMOUNT OF REFRIGERANT THAT IT HAD WHEN SOLD, ANY EXTRA TALK (COMMENTORS) IS MIS-DIRECTED PERSUASION FROM THE MARKET-PLACE ( SALES) &/ OR MIS-INFORMED LAWSMAKERS!!!!!!