How I Deal With Photo Etch Parts

[@alancaso7878]

I've been watching a lot of these PE Videos on photo etching management and tools - and I gotta say this is a terrific overview with a lot of very helpful hints and applications that I hadn't seen in previous videos. So Brett G has got quite a few tricks up hi sleeve, and my hat goes off to you as a very experienced and helpful instructor on how to work with PE!!!

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Alan! Glad it was helpful. I am thinking of doing an updated version of working with PE...

[@Jo-cx5nj]

Thanks Brett - a great video with a lot to offer to improve my PE skills. I was reading other comments about using PE and I agree: I've never used all the PE in a kit. However, for inspiration, I had a chance to visit the Eduard factory last year and every piece of PE they have on a fret, they've used in a model to test it. It was amazing to see an F-104 cockpit with all PE installed. Thank you again, John

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Jo. I could probably use a whole fret, but I weigh the visible detail vs frustration level to make my decision. Sometimes its just too small for me to work with without getting frustrated. As for the tour of Eduard... that wouldbe amazing! I really like stuff llike that.

[@brianbarrett6879]

Thanks your glue application methods are great. Always something to learn Modeling for 55 years. Thanks

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Brian, and glad it was helpful.

[@CaptainColdyron222]

Thanks for this video. I have not worked with photo etch before. I got a model of the USS Indianapolis for Christmas that includes photo etch cranes and catapults. Now I have the confidence to work with these parts.

[@BrettG64]

Excellent, Captain! I'm really glad it was helpful. Good luck on the Indianapolis project, and if you don't mind, keep me posted on how it goes.

[@rikkicampos8873]

For sanding PE parts i use the brown and white stick, finger nail file, does a great job, I also use them for cleaning brass contacks and springs in flash lights, for the battery, by cutting the sticks in half and bending the end about 1/4 inch leg in order too get inside and rough up the brass contack points.

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Rikki, and good tips. Kind of timely too as I have to clean the contacts in a keyboard bettery compartment!

[@bassinbob1965]

Watch this video people. It has really useful information. Even for us experienced modelers. Great video!

[@BrettG64]

Wow, thanks, Robert!

[@bryan5327]

thanks for the video! I have had some difficulty working with photo-etched parts, but this video clearly demonstrates the best way to handle them. thank you once again. I look forward to building my new model kit with the info I learned.

[@BrettG64]

Glad it was helpful for you! That's my aim with these videos... to help people out if possible.

[@ocsplc]

Brett can you demonstrate how to attach PE fenders or side skirts to AFV models?

[@stephenlovelock5563]

Hi mate i really enjoyed your video on using etched brass Great stuff but i hope you don't mind me saying but I have found using a dark coloured tile to be better as you can see the part a lot easier i hope you do not take this as a negative comment and thanks for your videos they are well appreciated cheers mate.

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Stephen! And I am always open to suggestions on things. And a darker tile makes sense. I find for the stuff I cut on my green mat, I find it easier to see. Thanks for the comment.

[@petebaez2350]

Very helpful info Brett! Thanks for sharing. I have a bunch of stuff on hold because I dont really know how to deal with photo etched kits. 👍

[@BrettG64]

Glad I could help, Pete. I think sometimes the PE in a kit can be a bit overboard and not necessary. I haven't used all of the PE in a kit yet!

[@andrewshawmodels8610]

Great video, Brett! Just what I was after. Cheers. 😁👍

[@howardharaway2259]

I lay it on a hard surface BUT, I lay masking tape sticky side up, and cut on top of that so parts are mildly stuck and I have no projectiles. Have to have tape

[@BrettG64]

Good tip.

[@richardsimmons6470]

have a look at the swan morton blades and scalpels - much cheaper if you buy packs of 100 from amazon / ebay i use a strip of masking tape to hold it

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Richard...Great tip! I actually have used them since this video and they do work great! As a matter of fact, I think I need to update my video... a few things have changed since I maed this one.

[@richardsimmons6470]

@@BrettG64 can you add more about the sticky sticks They are amazing Been modeling for 70 years and apart from decent blades are the best modeling tools I have bought Available from amazon

[@bobahnert9213]

Now that was handy tutorial on working with photo etch. Like you I don't use it very often and the way my hands are it's not an easy task. But I will be using the grease pencil trick from now on. And for the cups I have one that is turned upside down just for that purpose!

[@BrettG64]

Good to hear from you Bob! And glad that was helpful for you. Not an original idea of mine though. I think I may have seen it first on one of Will Pattison's videos. My technique before was to use a tiny speck of blue or grey poster tack on the end of a toothpick. It worked ok but not quite as well as the grease pencil.

[@rogermullins7877]

Very good video Brett. Please could you tell me how well the "Gator's Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue" holds a PE part in place on a model? Also the drying time for the same. Cheers.

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Roger. The Gator's Grip works really well for flatter connections, in my experience. As long as the pe part has some surface area to it so its a flat on flat scenario, it sticks really well. I haven't used it on small contact point parts yet.... like ship railings or something like that. As for drying time it takes abit longer than CA glues. So, an unstable part would have to be held a bit longer before it sets up enough. The best part is, its slower dry time allows a bit longer to properly position the part.

[@rogermullins7877]

@@BrettG64 Thanks for the reply Brett. I am in the UK, despite spending ages trying to find Gator's Grip here, it seems nobody has it, including Amazon and ebay. Found a place in the US selling it for £7.00 equivalent to US$ But a further £19 for shipping ! Which seems a little steep !!! I also heard someone say that Gorilla PVA is quite good. Bought a bottle two days ago and tested it on scrap pieces off the fret. It's ok for holding something in place temporarily but it doesn't grip it very well so bottom line is I'm still searching for Gator's Grip, Thin Blend.

[@GregReilly135ScaleModels]

Thank you Brett for those tips on how to apply photo etch

[@statoilbensin2190]

Wery nice video, I have a diamond file from Tamiya meant for photo etch but I cant find it. But I have a regular Tamiya plastic file and some sanding paper 1200 and 800 grip. Can I use that for sanding down the nob on the edge?

[@BrettG64]

That should work. I would try it on a scrap piece first to be sure.

[@noclass69]

I’m just getting into modelling, would you paint your sheets of photo etch before you start fitting it ?

[@BrettG64]

No, I always paint mine in place. Paint can be real fragile on photo etch as well, so care is needed when handling. A good metal primer like Mr. Metal Primer-R is pretty good.

[@MottysMilitaryModels]

Great video Brett ! Really brill stuff ! I don't mind p.e it's just when you get lots and lots ! I'm hoping to build that Tamiya tomcat this year and I thought why not I bought the big ed Eduard set and it's packed full of metal !! Ha ha

[@BrettG64]

Oh man... I'll be watching this one. I don't mind PE when it makes sense, but to have PE just for the sake of having it when it doesn't really enhance the finished kit... no thanks!

[@lusty444]

It might sound a bit Nerdish but since I started modelling four years ago I didn’t realise the science behind using various glues.

[@BrettG64]

Hello, Rusty. Yes, the glue can make a difference. In my younger years, I stuck to just one kind of glue, but since returning to the hobby several years ago, I have discovered that using a few different types, depending on the application, has been really helpful.

[@ClearyMorris]

where can i get a grease pencil. The hobby shops in ottawa don"t carry them

[@BrettG64]

Craft store, sometimes building materials stores. An office supply store might have them as well

[@saints51]

My PE (ship's rails in 1/350scale) came in a box, and the PE was encased in clear plastic that I find impossible to separate from the PE itself. What's the story on this? I've never used PE before.

[@BrettG64]

Well, the plastic film is to help remove parts without them flying off into oblivion. Usually, one side will peel off easier then you can cut off the arts and remove the film from that, but ship rails are an area I've not tackled before... Maybe use a knife to gently slide between the film and parts. I'm sorry I can't be more help with this one.

[@saints51]

@@BrettG64 Thanks for trying. I trhink the plastic fused together after sitting in a closet for several years. I learned a lesson: Do not procrastinate.

[@GryphonArmorer]

Good idea for assembly, but porcelain is actually harder than the blade, which is why the blades dull so quickly. I just cut the p.e. on my self healing mat, unless I'm worried about the part bending/deforming then I have an 1/8" thick teflon/nylon cutting mat that works awesome. For glue I bit the bullet and bought VMS Flexy 5k CA. I don't recall exactly how much, not cheap but worth every penny. And like you said when using p.e. I always use an enamel or lacquer primer. Oh another thing, I keep an Arkansas Wet Stone at my work station just for renewing my xacto blades. Mostly because I'm cheap 😜 but mostly because otherwise I would have to buy stock in xacto. Seriously though I would run through blades like crazy because I have learned the hard way that sharp blades are less dangerous, besides doing a better job and sometimes I like to reshape the contour. Like for masking canopies I take a #11 knock a mm or less off the tip and slightly round it. That way I can push the cut to almost the corner then roll the last little bit. It works so much better (remember I said I'm cheap, I don't buy precut masks). I use washi tape or just plain ole scotch.

[@BrettG64]

Thanks for the response! The self healing mat thing you mention is why I started using the tile. I have bent some parts in the past that way. I finally got some super-fine pointed cutters for PE that have been very useful as well. Is the Flexy CA flexible? Does it give you a bit of time for positioning? And I actually prefer to cut my own masks as well... I actually enjoy the process. The only time I don't is when the edges aren't defined enough...

[@raimee81]

Ah i needed this. For a Gunpla kit. Thanks for this, it was very informative and complete! How about using something like epoxy glue? Mainly I would like to have a bit of working time and for the glue to dry clear. Which the white glue is suitable, but i'm thinking the epoxy is stronger. I'm not to sure as I don't have much experience, just wondering.

[@BrettG64]

I've only really used CA glue and PVA white glue. I have found that for some things a medium or thick CA glue helps with a bit more time to get things in place. A two part epoxy glue would probably work great. I haven't tried it yet, but I think for some applications it would work fine.

[@raimee81]

@@BrettG64 thanks! I think I'll look for a slower drying CA glue first before trying other options.

[@BrettG64]

@@raimee81 Let me know how it works out.

[@davidsilvernail1540]

Great information! : )

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, David

[@tedwong6790]

Very nice video Sir do you have a video on bending ?

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Ted. Nothing on bending yet, but I foresee one in the future.

[@JimDandy49]

I find photo etch aftermarket kits to be cost prohibitive.. at times, they cost as much as the model you are building.

[@BrettG64]

Very true, Jim. I have heard from reliable sources that pe sets for ship models are the worst. In general, the only photo etch I use is what comes with the kit, if it comes with the kit.

[@carolinehaf21]

Thanks so much from a new builder!!

[@BrettG64]

You're welcome.

[@DanielAggers]

Excellent tutorial!

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Daniel!

[@donmelanson3698]

Thanks Brett, just starting to use photo etch. Where do you get the white pencil and what is it called? Have you had anyone comment back to you about a photo etch cutter? Thinking of getting one. Will also buy the blade that you use. Cheeper then the special cutter. Thanks

[@BrettG64]

Thanks, Don, and I'm glad this was helpful. I'm not sure what the pencil is called, but its like a wax pencil. They can be found at arts and crafts stores and sometimes hardware/home center type stores. Nobody got back with me on the cutter, but I did finally find a pretty good one. Its a Xuron 9180. It has a really fine tip with long blades. Almost like really fine scissors. I found them somewhere online. They work really good for some things, but I still use the X-Acto blade the most. Since this video was made, I have stopped using the tile. I found it wasn't really necessary, and I seemed to go through alot of blades due to the tile dulling them really quickly. I just cut the parts carefully from the fret on my cutting mat. So far no mishaps. If you have any more questions let me know!

[@crocgator3693]

Thanks for the help. 👍

[@paulsscalemodels5915]

Great help mate👍👍👍

[@BrettG64]

Thanks Paul (sorry it took so long to respond!)

[@m_shaf2139]

What about testora cement glue?

[@BrettG64]

Thanks for the question. Testors glue probably would work very well since it is designed specifically for plastic. It wouldn't have enough strength to hold brass photo etch.

[@m_shaf2139]

@@BrettG64 hey thanks for the quick response! What about painting these brass railings? I’m getting a QM2 Revell and I gotta paint the railings white. How do you do it?

[@BrettG64]

@@m_shaf2139 If etch need paint a color othe than the overall color, I just use an acrylic paint to paint it with a brush.

[@waylander2]

Photo etch sucks. I have big fingers and I just can't handle it even with tweezers.

[@ArmourEmpire]

Good How to Brett

[@MrMcKane]

Quick question, what specific type of pencil do you use picking up those pieces. Or any equivalent? Thanks

[@BrettG64]

Something like this: www.hobbyworld-usa.com/Store/index.php?id_product=1161&controller=product