How I make custom cabinets with adjustable shelves P4,

[@MyGrowthRings]

Very enjoyable episode. Thanks Peter. Scott

[@craigcoe2804]

Hi Peter, watching this video I noticed that when you attach the cabinet back piece it just goes straight onto the back of the cabinet without you having cut a rebate for it to sit in snugly. I've always used a rebate for this but I'm wondering if the rebate is as strong? Both methods help pull the cabinet into square but you get 18mm to put the staples into whereas with the rebate way I only get 9mm. 'My' way also takes longer having to put the rebate into it too. I'm trying to improve my work flow / efficiency but without losing strength in my carcasses! Hope this makes sense! Thank you and sorry for the long winded comment!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Hi Craig. I rebate the backs if the sides are visible, but if it’s a fitted piece then I don’t bother; I don’t feel it adds anything strength-wise, and as you say, it’s easier to staple into an 18mm side than a 9mm rebate - not that I’ve ever missed the carcass or anything, you understand... 🤔😬

[@craigcoe2804]

@@10MinuteWorkshop that makes sense to me. Saves another process within the build too. Us professionals never make 'mitsakes' do we ha! Thanks again for your time 👍

[@manithaariyathilaka5182]

Hi Peter, thanks for your videos. Can I ask which wood glue are you using? Thanks

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks! Old vid so I’m not sure exactly tbh, but almost certainly a fast-grab PVA. There’ll be a link in the video description, but back then it was most likely Polyten PVA. 👍👍

[@manithaariyathilaka5182]

@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks for your prompt response. Appreciate it 👌

[@toddbailey5198]

Hi Peter, how do you stop the MDF from splitting when edge screwing it? I've been a carpenter a long time and use MDF quite a lot but even when I pre drill and use screws with a self tapping tip (type 17 here in Canada) it still splits the edge a little.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Hi Todd. I only use MR MDF (Moisture Resistant, a much better board) and I use Spax M cut MDF screws - link in the description above - with a pilot hole, and rarely have an issue with splitting; usually my own fault if I do e.g. screwing too close to an edge. HTH Peter

[@toddbailey5198]

Thank you, I'll have to try and track some of these down in here in Canada.

[@cheesegrater2018]

Is there anything more satisfying than driving a screw home, into a nicely countersink hole, pulling a joint tight and leaving a fine bead of squeeze out?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Always a pleasure to see... ;)

[@rwe2156]

I like your system using the Dominoes (if only I could afford one). How do you avoid paint running in the shelf pin holes? I always have an issue with this. Over here (US) I use a product call Panolam for the backs and generally go with melamine if cabs are white. Saves all that painting. Also, I've found standard PVA glue doesn't hold well on MDF edges. What type of glue are using?

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

+Robert I use Polyten PVA, made by cascamite. Holds extremely well on MDF edges. Again I highly recommend you seek out MR (Moisture Resistant) MDF. Re. The paint, I only use water-based paints, applied thinly with a foam roller; never had a problem with the shelf-pin holes 'filling' so perhaps you're applying too thickly? HTH! Peter

[@rwe2156]

Peter Millard This thank you Peter this applies to all your answers. I looked into MR MDF one product here is called Ultrastock MR50 made by Georgia Pacific. Very limited distribution it seems but I will contact my supplier.

[@dlindesey]

Well done sir.

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@thomaskitchin3517]

Hey Peter, thanks again for these! I notice you hardly used any clamps till the end (screwed instead) - is this a personal preference in general, or just not needed here? Novice watching a lot on youtube recently and many people seem too (possibly over use them? )... could you explain your decision process a bit ? Many thanks Tom

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Hi Tom. If the joint is going to be screwed together, then that's all the clamping pressure it really needs, and I'll typically use screws wherever they won't be seen. Where I used clamps towards the end, this joint wasn't screwed as I wanted as clean a finish as possible to the inside of the cabinet, so the dominos weren't just for alignment here, they were providing mechanical strength. In those circumstances, I always clamp them up tight.You can see as well (around 7m 35s) that I also put a clamp on the very end when I attach the small side section of the carcass; again, this is because that side of the join is only held by the domino - though this is down to space here, rather than aesthetics :) P

[@thomaskitchin3517]

Thanks Peter :)

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Thank *you* - always good to get feedback on something I haven't explained well. I have a wardrobe build coming up where I'll talk more about larger carcass construction, and now I know to go into a bit more detail about this aspect 👍

[@thomaskitchin3517]

Ace! As a slight aside I think you recommend lost/tongue tite screws previously. I picked which ever was cheapest from toolstation to experiment with - and indeed marvelous! Also thanks for the Wealdentool mention now on second order with them - very glad to have found them! :)

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Excellent! Tongue-Tite are a fantastic screw, lots of uses - I just wish they came in more sizes! And Wealden are always excellent.

[@gdcatowner426]

so are tite or spax the best on mdf in your opinion? doing a little mdf project soon using 18mm mdf

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

James Southcome For general carcass construction? Spax, hands-down. For discretely securing a carcass to a plinth, *-Tite every time. Different tools for different jobs. Cheers, P

[@gdcatowner426]

Many thanks. That will get me started!!

[@10MinuteWorkshop]

Pleasure! Hope it goes well 👍 All best. P