How I make: Five piece cabinet door

[@meghancass3187]

You got a sub here. I've got 30 years in residential and commercial carpentry and I always wanted to get into cabinetry. Finally did it. You have a well organized process and a well organized shop. Kudos

[@joesmith6972]

I can't tell you how nice it is to see a professional with real tools not only share his process, but do so in a straight-to-the-point manner. Most of KZbin is crap when it comes to cabinet making. Instant sub from me.

[@KBrogger]

I appreciate that. There's good content out there, but it's few and far between when it comes to woodworking unfortunately. There's a lot out there to be learned from one another on how to become more effective, more efficient, and more profitable. I should redo this video too. Our door building strategy hasn't changed much, but we do have some widgets now that have made it easier to make a better product faster. Most of it is the same, but some changes and improvements.

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Thanks for showing the process. You have an incredible shop.

[@edstengel2495]

thanks for the tour, love to see the machines at work

[@ernieforrest7218]

Very impressive. However the shaker style is a fairly easy door compared to other styles. Do you use your shapers when building a raised panel door, especially ones with arched tops? Do you also have a door machine in your shop or do you just use shapers for all of your door building

[@KBrogger]

Sticking profile won't affect how the process takes place. Raised panel just added unnecessary time to the video. Panels are power fed through another shaper though. Now we have an automatic coper. I'm still not doing the sticking and sizing on a moulder. I just don't have the floor space for it.

[@ernieforrest7218]

@@KBrogger Thanks for the responce. Im an 89 year old retired home builder. My son has a 4000 Sq ft cabinet shop here in Florida. He also has a Striebig saw, but an older version than yours. He uses a straight line saw also and has 2 shapers, both with power feeds. My concern is the safety factor, especially with the shapers. He has a jig he uses for the arched tops, but there is lots of exposure to the cutters while using it. I have been trying to convince him to get a dedicated door machine primarily for the safety factor. Do you always use the electric palm sanders? or do you mostly use air ?

[@KBrogger]

@@ernieforrest7218 Arched doors are a hassle. Point to point arches, you can power feed those through with a bearing with little risk. Unless the rails are really tiny. Cathedral arch, then you're pretty much stuck running them with a fixture and a jig. Not my favorite. I have no experience with any of the dedicated machinery like that. It doesn't really fit our needs, so I really haven't looked into them. If we did more arched door stuff, I'd probably be putting vacuum cups on the cnc and milling everything with a parametric program. Not my favorite approach eiterh. That's kind of an expensive approach, but we'd need the output to justify the capital cost of a dedicated machine like that eating up floor space. In the last 20 years, I bet I haven't done more than 20 arched doors. And some of the other weird arched stuff we've done has been so unique, that a specific machine like that, it would have been outside of it's operating envelope.

[@wizardoffireYT]

How did you make your outboard fence for your shaper?

[@KBrogger]

There's another video on my channel explaining it

[@florycustomwoodworking8330]

Thanks for showing us your process! I'm looking at a used straight line saw, same model you use here, would you say it accurate enough to go cut to your finished width and skip the shaper sizing?

[@KBrogger]

The saw is accurate enough. The wood isn't though

[@florycustomwoodworking8330]

@@KBrogger thanks for the quick reply! I know it will be a leap up from hand ripping then planning to width. Just don't want to over-expect what it will do

[@KBrogger]

@@florycustomwoodworking8330 The problem is when you release the tension in the material, it can pull it one way or another. So it's accurate, right up until it's not

[@tundrawhisperer4821]

Using that oscillating edge sander on the end grain of the doors doesn’t create an uneven edge? What grit are you sanding with on the edge sander? Thx

[@KBrogger]

100g. Uneven in what way?

[@tundrawhisperer4821]

@@KBrogger When sanding end grain and edge grain on the top and bottom of rail & stile doors, do you ever get an uneven edge afterwards, since the end grain is harder than the edge grain? Thx

[@KBrogger]

@@tundrawhisperer4821 No, it knocks it flat

[@tundrawhisperer4821]

@@KBrogger Okay, sounds like it’s a non issue then. You build your cabinet doors to pretty much the finish dimensions and just use the edge sander to clean up edges? So your not pushing into the sanding belt very aggressively, correct? Thx

[@KBrogger]

@@tundrawhisperer4821 Doors are all built .020" oversized. So we're removing material, but not a huge amount

[@jonathonbunyard9746]

What kind of upcut saw is that along with the automated length that thing is pretty slick

[@KBrogger]

That was a Whirlwind with a Tiger Stop, which has since been replaced with a Northfield and a Razorgage.

[@jonathonbunyard9746]

Thanks so much I appreciate the info

[@jonathonbunyard9746]

Definitely going to look into them

[@KBrogger]

@@jonathonbunyard9746 No sweat

[@kamilhoufek]

@@KBrogger Hi, why do you replace it? Is look pretty nice. It up cut saw make cleaner cuts than miter saw? I am sorry for those dum questions I try to do my own shop and looking for ideas. thank you for your help.

[@Cpedro1685]

Great video! What brand coping sled is that?

[@KBrogger]

Copecrafter I believe? They're made in Texas somewhere, I remember that much

[@jeremyarnold2968]

Yep, Reliable Cutting Tools. Fort Worth, TX.

[@carlnolte1637]

Reliable Cutting Tools, in Alvarado TX, is out of business. Wynmatic also produced a similar coping sled and they are out of business too.

[@kimurafighter]

Hello, Thank you so much for showing us this. What is the first machine you run your board through?

[@KBrogger]

Rip saw

[@kimurafighter]

@@KBrogger Do you run your boards through jointer and planer ahead of time?

[@KBrogger]

@@kimurafighter I order most hardwood in 13/16" thick. Generally I don't face joint much of anything. After the rip saw, it goes to a shaper for edging. Glued up panels will get edge jointed

[@JimenezWoodProducts]

what brand is your cutoff saw?

[@KBrogger]

That was a Whirlwind. It's been replaced with a Northfield and a Razorgage

[@ChrisSmith-md8wx]

Do you ever have issues running planed material through the ripsaw, or does the widebelt remove any surface damage that the feed chains of the ripsaw make?

[@KBrogger]

The chain doesn't really leave any marks

[@ChrisSmith-md8wx]

@@KBrogger Good to know, thanks for the reply. Do you glue up panels off the ripsaw as well or do they get jointed?

[@KBrogger]

@@ChrisSmith-md8wx I like to still joint things.

[@DavesShed]

Thanks for the video. That's interesting. Do you focus on custom cabinets? Do you have a website?

[@KBrogger]

Yep, custom residential. www.sogncabinets.com

[@DavesShed]

@@KBrogger Thanks for the quick reply. You should put that in your channel info. I'm pleased to hear your business is going well.

[@renetoholness]

Hi can you link the bit that you used to cut the shaker with the bevel?

[@KBrogger]

All of my door tooling is through Dimensions in Tooling. The don't sell retail, just through dealers. So there's no link. The heads are about $700 a piece with inserts and backers.

[@renetoholness]

Thank you.

[@renetoholness]

Are you able to share where I can get the air clamps that you are using on the doors?

[@andylitchfield]

Why glue the tenon instead of the mortice? Glue scrapes off as you push the tenon in, and gets all over the face of the stile.

[@KBrogger]

I get more squeeze out on profiles than when I do it this way, I also think it's easier to hit all the faces. JLT has a gluing jig that works well for applying it to the stiles, that I'd like to get some day. We don't push enough doors through to justify it at this point though

[@andylitchfield]

Hi. Sorry. Do you mean, you get more squeeze out when you apply the glue in the mortise? Nice setup btw.

[@KBrogger]

@@andylitchfield correct. I don't care too much about the face or end, but when it's in the profile it's a pain.

[@markwelle3254]

What dimensions is the shop?

[@KBrogger]

60x132

[@FranciscoDiaz-vj9om]

Hey, great video. How many doors can you make in a day with all that machinery?

[@KBrogger]

I honestly don't have a good answer to that. We're a small shop, so usually everything isn't spinning at once. If all four of us were concentrating on just making doors, it'd be a lot for sure.

[@solowfrful]

@@KBroggersmall shop! Lol You don’t know what a small shop is. Thanks for sharing your insight. You have an amazing facility

[@KBrogger]

@@solowfrful Still a small shop. My first shop was a whopping 1000 sq/ft. When you can start measuring floor space in acres, you loose the small shop status. :D

[@michaellarson3824]

Martin would you mind sending me a pic of the outboard fence on ur shaper?

[@KBrogger]

I'll just upload another video quick explaining it. It's transferring off of my phone right now onto my computer. BTW, Martin is a pseudonym for Sawmill Creek. They booted me off years ago and I wanted back in. I no longer care. If they kick me off again, oh well.

[@KBrogger]

It's uploading right now.

[@instantsiv]

I counted about 7 minutes and 20 seconds of value added. That's a good job. Curious if you've improved that since this video.

[@KBrogger]

Not really, the setup is pretty much identical. The only thing different is we have a rotary door clamp. It's probably a little faster, but we're talking seconds.

[@jeremys5904]

Why dont you use spaceballs instead of toenailing the panel in and 23 gauge pins are a lot smaller and just as effective as 18 ga.

[@KBrogger]

We do spaceballs on raised panel. The only reason we don't on sheet panels is the material is always a little sloppy, so the pins help force the panel towards the front. 23ga has it's uses, I'm just not a big fan for this application. My finisher dislikes them since they're difficult to fill, and I think he misses them once in a while and has to go back.

[@jeremys5904]

@@KBrogger Yes, 1/4" veneer core mdf can have thickness differneces but you should be using an adjustable goover/tennoner such as the Freeobrn to combat this issue...or not. Sometimes material is different from one batch to the next that i have to change gooove thickness all the time. Annoying but i do not like pinning the panels in.

[@KBrogger]

@@jeremys5904 We run all insert tooling. If I had it to do again, I'd probably do stackable insert heads so they could be adjusted to some degree.

[@benwhaley4054]

Cool! How do you prevent blow out when you do your cope cut after your sticking? Thanks

[@KBrogger]

Left and right copers on profiled sticking with a square backer. On a square profile, a square backer works for both edges.

[@benwhaley4054]

@@KBrogger thanks. On profiled sticking do you do your cope first, or make a counter profiled backer? Thanks again

[@KBrogger]

@@benwhaley4054 Sticking cut first, then just a square backer. One shaper set up to do one end, another shaper set up to do the opposite end that way you're always pulling into the flat. With mid rail/stile, then you have to either cope first, or use a profiled backer

[@benwhaley4054]

@@KBrogger Thanks, I appreciate your help

[@michaellarson3824]

do you do your own finishing?

[@KBrogger]

Michael Larson no, I sub out all out

[@stoicllc2352]

If you are painting it why waste time on anything but routed mdf doors? They a single piece and just as strong.

[@KBrogger]

Generally speaking, not something my clientele are interested in. We cut some on the router here and there in some special circumstances, and we make a ton for other shops.

[@davidk3177]

Nice. Just wondering where your safety glasses went to??? No gloves either, huh? Just saying, nice that you are married, but ever seen a degloved finger? Even a brad-nail to look at the business end with... You have skill, but does no good if you get hurt badly. Be safe bro. Never a great idea to work in a shop alone. Not trying to hate. Just be a shame if something happened.

[@KBrogger]

Safety troll?

[@tfast78]

David, I don’t disagree with the safety glasses, but NOBODY wears them ALL of the time, not him, not me, not you. I never wear gloves when I’m working around rotating bit/blade equipment. Have you ever seen a gloved finger pulled into rotating equipment and messing up the whole hand? Not cool! As far as working in a shop by yourself, as business owners we work almost twice as many hours as our workers. First one in, last one out, weekend work,.... We can’t always pay employees overtime or ask them to make the same sacrifices we make so not working in a shop by yourself is almost impossible for us. I know you’re looking out, but, you also have to be realistic.