Making Raised Panel Doors The Easy Way

#raisedpaneldoor #cabinetdoors #bathroomcabinetdoors
Building a professional quality raised panel door doesn't require a large investment. Follow Wes as he takes you step-by-step through this process. With the use of only router bits and a simple router table, you too can make top notch raised panel doors.
Panel Size...9 x 20 1/2 "
5/8" thick
The panel is 1/4" less (W x H) than the maximum size available to allow for the space balls.
Video Showing Router Table Build:
• Easy To Build Router T...
Amazon links to router bits used for this door
amzn.to/3EzchDW
amzn.to/2Z4NqHT

[@DaleHoffmann]

I used to work in a cabinet shop. This guy knows what he is doing. His attention to detail is awesome.

[@winstonramroop3387]

One of the best explanation how to construct a raised panel door inclusive of safety and valuable knowledge know how / techniques.. Amazing "cool" master woodwork teacher . Thanks for this video !

[@johnnymclemore8255]

I feel like every time I was one of your videos its like my grandpa sharing his wisdom, I appreciate it very much.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad to hear it...thank you for the kind comment. Wes

[@jeremyrumph7654]

The little tips like the jointer pass and not ripping your parts until after applying the profiles are amazing.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad it was helpful! It has always helped me make a better door. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@francismallard5892]

Informative, clear, well explained. Calm and well paced without being condescending. If I had a father or grandfather who explained virtually every aspect of everyday living to me like this I’d be a decent, well adjusted person. Thank you SO much for this!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you for such a very kind comment. Glad you visited the channel ! Wes

[@michaelbrown3334]

I wish I’d found this video before started my doors. I learned a few things the hard way. By the way, you are a natural born teacher! Definitely have a gift!

[@christianlibertarian5488]

I have been looking at videos all over the place to learn how to build cabinet doors (and other stuff, of course). This is *by far* the best method of making doors, with clearly the best tips on making better doors.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad I could help...thank you very much for your kind comment. Wes

[@MrHartApart]

Been working in a cabinet shop for a little over a month now - was supposed to be doing real estate appraising but there is no work right now, so a friend hooked me up - the amount of prep, wood putty, and sanding really gave me appreciation for WHY you take so many carefully planned out steps because MAN, when those doors go into someone's kitchen, it's immaculate! For the newbies like me, when you 'break an edge', one or two quick swipes with the sanding block is all you need. My first set of doors I was a bit aggressive. The other thing, you can never clamp your doors together too tightly! You'll see once that first coat of primer goes on.

[@John3.3]

Great example of craftsmanship,a joy to watch.

[@davidwilson-fu4je]

This is an excellent demonstration and thank you for thorough explanation step by step. Absolutely love this !!!!

[@donaldmorrison6898]

Thank you for sharing your expertise!!!! I'm making my first set of raised panel doors. You video has brought up some ideas. Hopefully mine will be as easy as yours!!! Thanks again!!!

[@kennethlemke9826]

Wes your the best….I can tell your years of experience has made you a true professional….love your videos

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

I appreciate that! Thank you very much for your comment. Wes

[@rsharahme3418]

Thanks for sharing old age and nut-shell of life long experience. I think belt /drum sander is not necessary yet it gives a smooth finish in short time ( time saver ) you are lucky to build a hightech workshop. love your work.❤

[@chrisswartzwelder8494]

I like the jointer tip. I’ll definitely do that on my doors.

[@whitingmp1]

Saw this video after a router mishap while working on some raised panel doors(all fingers still attached, just a nice gash from my workpiece and not the bit!) moving forward I will be using this exact process! Thank you for this video! Instant subscriber! I shared with a friend and said, it's probably best to take woodworking advice from an older gentleman (read that with the utmost respect intended!) with all their fingers!!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you for your kind words...glad you enjoyed the video. Wes

[@PhilDapple]

Yup, that sander is the thing. I use a stroke sander. I super liked your video because that is a pretty cool way to make doors and panels!! Those doors you were making look exactly like the ones folks pay for when they buy high end. And from what I seen in your video, your door looks so much better!! Great Job!! Great Video!!🕶

[@aaudain1]

I must let you know that I learned something good from you today I was about to buy me a router table but the cost of it is so much money but when I look at your table give me an idea so thanks again for helping me save some money

[@willie9397]

I now wanna go get some tools and build a kitchen, great job door looks fantastic

[@philr2664]

I am as new as they come to building any of this. I saw to rail and stile bits and literally was wondering what they were for. Yes. That green. Your video not only showed me what they were for the explanation of the much more stylish door was extremely helpful. You advice is very helpful also. Many videos fly through so fast, they leave me wondering "how did they do that?" Thank you Wes.

[@csimet]

Nice tips. I really like the idea of making the rails/stiles double wide (plus some) and cutting them in half after the routing is completed. As you said, easier to handle on the router table. Not sure I like the idea of wearing gloves while routing as it seams a bit risky and could get caught in the bit IMHO. I invested in a couple decent push blocks (I love the MicroJig Grr-Rip Blocks for the router and jointer).

[@biggusbestus551]

Outstanding tutorial. Delivering in a calm steady pace, certainly made me able to catch the information in one run through. Love the router table vs. trying to sell me one. The table has plenty of "real estate" to handle pieces safely and providing stability. I seldom subscribe to channels, but did today and I will take a long look. Love the wide belt sander by the way. First one I have ever seen.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for joining our woodworking community. Wes

[@jelsner5077]

I'm interested in doing a room with raised panel wainscoting or perhaps full wall paneling. This was a wonderful introduction to that. Thank you. Subscribed.

[@iGoldeneYe]

That is awesome! Thanks for sharing. Be safe.

[@juanzuniga6387]

Master i learn lots from u!! Now im doing works and make good money!! Thank u!!

[@johnchurchill786]

Great technique and an excellent video, great job as always Wes!!👌👌👌👌👌👌

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad you liked it!

[@PatrickEArchuleta-fs8bv]

Outstanding work God continue to bless you.😅😊

[@menkulinanaldebaran7509]

Very good explanation how to make panel doors. You're a good teacher.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you for your kind words! Wes

[@Mike--K]

Great video Wes, and thumbs up for the discussion and technique! Based on my experience, I don't recommend using budget router bits, such as the Yonico. On the first pass of the third white oak panel, the Yonico ogee raised panel cutter shed one of the cutter edges with a bang. Fortunately, it didn't hurt me, but the router was immediately out of balance and shaking violently until I hit the emergency switch. The panel was ruined, but I didn't see any damage to my router or router table. I replaced the Yonico cutter with a Freud raised panel cutter and have been using it with no problems for several years.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you very much for your comment. Wes

[@lawrencejohnson3259]

Wonderful video! You are an awesome resource, thanks so much for posting and inspiring!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you for your kind words and visiting the channel! Wes

[@dankelley9361]

Beautiful job Wes! Would like to see the next step in finishing them with paint.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Dan...we have many finishing videos on our channel to help you. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@enayatyousefiyan8928]

Amazing job. Thanks for sharing sir.

[@drumaganger]

Great Video. Just starting my first project of cabinet doors. This will be useful.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching, Wes

[@iam1976mike]

I love the idea of using carpet or floor mats to hold wood and protect underside at the same time. I experienced underside damage from small little defect in workbench so I just had put a thick towel down. this is the first video i have watched of yours and I don't know if mentioned it before. If you haven't you should in a video of little hacks /ideas like that.Could call it "Cheap over looked idea's to save time and money"

[@carolinascreenprinting9957]

Use carpet padding to route or sand on your work piece won’t slide

[@rickkinney1249]

like that tip on running thru jointer to get better (chipless) looking edge on stile/rail thanx rick

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad to help...thank you for your comment. Wes

[@e.t.preppin7084]

I agree with you 💯 Why didn’t I think about that. This is why I watch these videos.

[@JPSolensky]

You're video was great and full of tips and tricks. Very professional and calm and easy to follow. You should include how you setup the router bit heights for the rails and stiles though. Also, I was wondering why you have a mammoth flat sander in your shop but built a stick/plywood router table.

[@ozzstars_cars]

Nice job Wes

[@steveeshenbaugh4306]

Awesome Video

[@garytrent1]

Great job thank you for sharing that was very helpful

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad it was helpful...thank you for watching! Wes

[@atillaserdar8988]

great work

[@peterzoomzoom]

All the years building doors and I never thought of cutting rails and stiles double wide. I have to try that next time.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

You should! Thanks for watching. Wes

[@CM_STILL_PLAYING]

Great explanation! 🎉

[@natarajansugumar5671]

SuperMan.Super work🎂

[@ryanb963]

Great video! Thankyou.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad you liked it...thanks for watching, Wes

[@peckerwood3556]

Really enjoy your videos thank you

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Glad you like them!

[@danburch9989]

5:40 I think an easier technique for those of us who don't own a jointer is to not make the full depth of cut on the first pass. Make the first pass about 1/32" shallower on all pieces, then follow with a final pass. Adjust the router table fence so the bearing is about 1/32" behind the fence (keeps eh cuter from cutting to the full depth). Eliminates one machine operaton. 7:50 That's a very good technique. Routing then ripping that ensures exact width of rails and stiles.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Yes...that is an acceptable alternative for sure. Thanks for your comment. Wes

[@aaudain1]

Clearly explain 💯💡👍

[@stevereddin7253]

A great video, I had never thought of doubling the rails so they are easier to handle on the router table; to be fair I always use feather boards. I really have mixed opinions on the router bits from Amazon though; on the one hand I can't argue with your results but on the other the set I bought went into the bin to be replaced by considerably more expensive bits from Rutlands and I have definitely had a better experience with them. I am certainly down the route of getting what you pay for, that said I still use an orbital sander from Lidl that I absolutely love after 10 years.

[@kerrykroberts7809]

Do not waste money buying inexpensive router bits! Amazon does however, also sell Freud and Whiteside router bits - both best in industry (I have over 40 years experience and have used about every brand bit made - also the two companies I mentioned have always placed high scores in woodworking magazines/reviews/tests

[@kubota33]

Very good video

[@tedpuckett2779]

Nice job and enjoyed watching. Appreciate your sharing. Subbed.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thanks for the sub! Wes

[@ed9958]

yes, this does work for me !! Thanks for the reply. Recently found out by "experimenting" that using a drawer edge bit & then, like you say, glued together. Have not tried either of these methods yet but will try. Never thought of using 5/8", will try that !!

[@jordanluscombe6845]

Brilliant video sir! I’ve worked site carpentry here in the UK for a few years and I noticed on one job that all the doors were developing cracks at the joints just a few weeks after being installed. I’ve never heard of those space balls before but I bet that problem was caused by something like that missing from their process. Looking to get into joinery and I’d kill to have a mentor like yourself!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Jordan...thank you so much for your comment. Space balls are an absolute necessity in building a raised panel style door. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@luciusverusluciusverus3082]

Thanks 😊 👍

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Welcome 😊

[@midnightgunner9465]

Great Video. You earned a sub.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you very much for joining our community! Wes

[@DD-TheGhost]

Mr.Wes i did watched hundreds of woodworking/carpentry videos you are THE BEST so far and really enjoying how you are explaining the process of making stuffs , plus the voice when you are talking is very relaxing. One Question whic type of BITS did you buy from Amazon. Keep doing great videos Mr.Wes.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Wow, thanks! There is a link in our description for the Amazon bits that we use. I appreciate your kind words. Wes

[@MNnytrorider]

I can’t finger out how to make my panel flush with the stile and rails. My panel is always proud.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...the unevenness of your panel is very common but can be taken care of by flat sanding your doors with a wide belt or drum sander. Hope this helps. Wes

[@dlvmil-spec]

Panel raising bit make need adjustment.

[@joelmorris4367]

Take a rabbit bit to back of the panel to bring it back flush.

[@joejtrip]

Using his technique and with 3/4 thick rails and stiles, use 5/8" material for your 😊panels. This will result in a flush fit. Note: when making the rail and stile cuts, the groove is 1/8" from back of rails and stile.

[@dsdome100]

Nice!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thanks! I appreciate the visit...Wes

[@peterwiltshire5900]

Nice

[@treyc7174]

Space Balls!!!

[@TheMichaelRoseGroup]

Wes, excellent video as always. Would it be possible to do a video on how to make your router fence. Thanks in advance.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Great suggestion...we will make that happen. Thanks, Wes

[@rickl6697]

Just a simple router table and bits you bought from Amazon. I have a simple router table, but then you pull out the professional level woodworking shop to do it. Love your shop but was hoping for the "with only a simple router table" video. I don't even need the raised panel I'm putting smoked plexiglass in the back.

[@jakeh409]

Well done Wes .I'm planning to build our new kitchen cabinets, we prefer the look of raised panel but worry they will look dated with the more popular shaker style. I wonder what your thoughts are on this? Thanks again, Jake

[@MrPhoenix1800]

I have to agree with some of the comments.. for just 300.00 u can make this door.. well what’s the process of getting flat s4s lumber? If you don’t have a jointer planner and belt sander it’s going to take you a bit more time to do if at all. Working with s4s and dry lumber is key to making these doors most people don’t have 1,500 worth of jointers and planners and that’s cheap ones.

[@pedroVVILLA]

great video i make all my cabinets few years using red oak now my wife wanted to paint all cabinets white question what can i use to fill the wood grain i looks smooth before i painted thanks in advance

[@2979paul]

Nice work Wes, could you do a shop tour sometime?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Yes, soon...thanks for the suggestion. Wes

[@kong_dong_usmc6651]

Damn, no dust collection? Savage

[@davidcurtis5398]

Nice video and great tips. I'm wondering why you don't have a dist collection box on the back of the fence? I have a set up similar to yours and have a box with a dust port and hose connection that i can add to the fence with clamps. Works real good. I set up my fence about a you do and I am wondering how you readjust the fence to the 1/32 of an inch??? Your table saw blade seems to be overly high. i don't have but about 1/8 of an inch out of the wood I am cutting. Just enough to clear the top of the board. I never take a full cut with any panel bit as I find that taking shallow cuts will get me a better final face and I will have less sanding to do. Have been making doors for 50 years and I always put a bit of glue in the middle of the top and bottom of the insert to keep it centered. I was taught that the panel will swell and shrink in width and this will keep the panel in the center. It has not failed me yet. Also, as long as you finish all surfaces of the door, the expanding and contracting will be to a minimum. I always put a barrier of some kind between the pipe and the wood because I have seen staining where the wood and the water from the glue will at times stain ( ever so slightly ) the wood where the pipe touches ... Wish I had, or had access, to a wide belt sander!!!

[@mavisbrauer6992]

Great tutorial! I really enjoyed your explanation. I do have one question. I'm building a few doors and am trying to match other doors in the same room. I need to use an edge-forming ogee bit on the inside of the frame. I get how to do that on the rails but what about the styles? Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

[@christianlibertarian5488]

I am not as smart or experienced as Wes, but you can use the same ogee bit for frames and stiles when you are doing the inside edge detail. You need to get the matched set (the ogee, and its inverse detail) when you want to create the joint between rails and stiles. The ogee does the inside edge detail on frames and stiles, and the matched inverse bit only does the "tenon" end of the rails. This way, the matched "tenon" end fits exactly into the stiles. There are lots of videos on this out there, though Wes's is the best. The easiest thing to do is forget the ogee, and just do Shaker style. In that case, there is no complicated detail.

[@mwreyf1]

May I suggest that when you start a router step in your process that you play the first run at real time speed instead of sped up for all. Would probably help some people out there to see how fast they should be shooting for.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you...I appreciate the comment. Wes

[@lanceboylan7504]

Wes, thanks for sharing your knowledge--you have some great tips in this video. One question: What brand and model of wide belt sander do you use in this video? Thank you!

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Lance...the brand is SCM and the one I use is 48" wide. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@lonnymuncie3914]

Wes I loved the video, very helpful. What was the little round sander you used on the contour of the panels after you routed the edges?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

It was my 5" palm sander. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@robbiebryant7431]

Mr. Wes, I am new to this. I was thinking about making the doors out of hard maple. I was told that a wider piece for the raised panel would cup. They said I would need to join 2 narrower boards to keep this from happening. Any ideas? Is there a different wood I could use for the wider panels? Thank you very much for the great video!!

[@szcustomwoodworks6401]

This is helpful, I have a large project on my calendar requiring raised panels. How much thinner should the panel be then the rails and styles?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...subtract the thickness of the back lip of the groove from the stile thickness for your panel. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@RedRoyce]

Question? When you ran the door through the big sander you put them in at a angle. I'm sure you do it for a purpose but was wondering what that was. I'm new to this hobby learning what I can as wood cost so darn much now I don't want to wast to much because I was stupid. LOL I have a scrap pile already big enough.

[@diegohperez6434]

I like to do that wood is my life question get settled in one country wich is colombia I’m in london at the moment but when I got on holiday I try to put together my shop is not easy here you can get tops tools i costly but I just loved in my country I have best hard wood to work any way I like you program and you good teacher thanks

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thanks for the comment...good luck in your woodworking! Wes

[@suzannekosempel8160]

great video. making the table and I purchased a Bosch raised panel bit. question. do you lower the speed of the router and do you take small bits to make the profile, or can you do it in one pass once the thickness is established? thanks

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...I don't lower the speed of the router and I make multiple cuts increasing the depth with every cut until I reach the full depth for best results. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@rvrpropertiesllc]

I like the way you did this. One question, how thick is the center panel?

[@JeffreyAWhittaker]

I would guess 1/2” as there is about 1/4” on the back side of the panel and it’s flush with the door sides which are 3/4”.

[@ARGH28]

Thanks for the video. I am just starting out with benchtop router table and s4s from store. The s4s is not super straight, typically exhibiting a minor cup or bow. I don't have a jointer or planer. My question is should I go ahead with this mindset and continue creating these doors or is it absolutely required to get a benchtop jointer and planer? My biggest reason not getting them is that I don't want the thickness to be smaller the 3/4" stock for the doors. I also experienced kickback from the raised panel bit with backcutter on the cross grain cut and wasn't sure if that was purely due to a slight warp of the panel or due to white oak hardness.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Using straight and flat stock is crucial for successful door construction. Your kick back problem could be caused by both white oak hardness and unevenness in your board. Starting with a smaller cut and making progressively larger cuts might help. Thanks, Wes

[@johngonsalvesiii8142]

Hi Wes, I really enjoy your videos I would like to know why you ran the raised panel door through the wide belt sander at an angle and not square?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi John...running at an angle gives a smoother pass through the sander and helps make the belts last longer. This is a trick taught to me by a wide belt sales rep years ago. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@danbirch8939]

Great video, Wes! 1 question, wouldn’t it be better to sand and finish the panel’s outer edges before assembling? Otherwise, if the panel moves, it won’t show an unfinished/unsanded line…

[@travisedwards9983]

Yes, thats always recommended. Same for ship lap or toung and grove. See this mistake all the time especially with painting, winter hits and you have exposed lines EVERYWHERE

[@iounatta]

Nice video but if your center panel was the same thickness of your stiles and rails then that panel would be sticking up about 1/8" higher than the frame. If using same thickness panel you may want to back cut your panel to allow it to set lower in the frame thus eliminating so much of the surface to be sanded off. You would account for this by cutting less deep on the cove profile. Many raised panel cutters have this back cutter incorporated into the design. JMHO :)

[@jbr2]

Yes! I was wondering the same thing. Also, many of us don’t have access to wide belt sanders to bring everything level, so the best method is the one you mentioned.

[@johnmoyer5515]

Matched stile & rail 3/8" tenon sucks, the joints can break off the panel groove. Deeper M&T is worth the time & wont fail

[@Aaron-nj4ou]

Thank you Wes. If you were building a standard shaker door would also use the router setup or would use the table saw? I got rid of my big Unisaw and my dado set to downsize and I am not convinced the contractor saw will do well with the dado set but I enjoy making cabinets and doors and the router setup might be my best option.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Aaron...we have a video showing exactly what you are looking for: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rafVZ2t5odWoi5Y Thanks for your comment, we appreciate the visit. Wes

[@flfbsphatboyblue8970]

Solid wood panel doors cost a fortune to make today. Still less than store bought. Great video nevertheless! Thanks.

[@roystonfernandes8501]

Can you help me with the machine / bit used to get those panel edges done

[@leonardburns1780]

What kind of router are you working with Thanks for these videos they are interesting

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...my router is 1 3/4 hp Porter Cable. I am not sure they still make it but I think DeWalt has one the same size. Thanks for watching, Wes

[@HWoodCreations]

You make it look so simple. One question....Say you need to make a door that is 15" wide x 22" tall. You cut your rails and stiles that lay out to be that size, but I'm assuming when you do all the routing, you've decreased the footprint of the door right? Is there a standard length that you add to the rails and stiles so that after routing, you're left with the desired size door? Sorry if this is a dumb question.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Lets do some math to see if I can help you. Assume your stiles and rails are 3" wide, your stiles will be the full height (22") your 15" width would be calculated by subtracting the width of your stiles (6") and adding the depth of the slot that your router bit makes (typically 3/8" ). That would leave you a rail of 9 3/4" and when you do your end cuts on your rails you will have a 9" panel opening. I hope I haven't confused you...I am sure you will do great. Wes

[@HWoodCreations]

@@WoodworkingWithWes That makes sense. Thank you for your reply!

[@GM-wf6el]

Hello. Love your video. I need some advise. I built a cabinet using ordinary plywood, about 1/3 inch thick. It was just a big box. No shelves or anything inside. I used ordinary nails to hold them together. I used a hinge on one side to serve as the door. But over time, the sides began to curve or bend. Is there a type of wood I could use that doesnt bend or curve over time? Thanks.🙂

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

The thinner the plywood the more tendency it has to bend. I would suggest a good quality 3/4" plywood for your next project. Thanks, Wes

[@robertstover7525]

I know this is red oak. Is this cabinet grade plywood or true oak lumber? Will plywood deliver a good finish as well?

[@TheChavez1976]

My 1.75 horsepower router burnt out today making raised panels. Right after the first one I made. Should I upgrade to a 3.5 ?

[@randallseepersad6727]

Hi Wes, Really nice work Can you please recommend a router that I can buy that will be able to do this???

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...I used a Porter Cable 1 3/4 horse router that I purchased from Amazon. Unfortunately, they don't offer them anymore. The do offer a 1 3/4 Dewalt router that would do the job.

[@donaldcalamaro9241]

wes - looks like in your door glue-ups you are using shop fox 24 inch bar clamps that have a very deep throat depth (4+ inches)....the heavy duty bessey have a shallower throat depth (like 3.5 inches). does the added depth actually help, or would the bessey clamps do the trick just as well?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...in my opinion the added depth really helps for clamps placement. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@terrychristian672]

Some great tips in here. I like the 1/32” jointer tip. Never thought of that. I’m trying that on my next doors. How do you accommodate the space balls? Do you build the doors and extra 1/16” wider or ?

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi...as mentioned in the video, the solid wood panel is 1/4" smaller in width and length than the space available in the stile and rail. This allows for the space balls. Thanks, Wes

[@terrychristian672]

Thanks. I must’ve missed that. I’m going to try those space balls! And I’m going to use the double wide plus version when cutting the grooves. I’ve been using a coping sled and this would allow me to skip that and probably make fewer setup mistakes. Great instructions. I am appreciating your videos.

[@cpw318]

How would you clean up that edge without a jointer?

[@itsJadeyCam]

Hi, I'd like to know the name of the router bit you are using when you were making your stiles and rails (3:32) Nice and helpful video 👍

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi Jade...the stile and rail set used for this door is referred to as a "round over stile and rail set" which is available on Amazon. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@timurzi6434]

👍💯

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Thank you !!

[@ed9958]

would like to build cafe doors, but, with raised panels seen on both sides. I thought of using 1 1/2" stock or 5/4" with back cutter used on one side & removed for the other side. Would this work ? Any suggestions would help as I am a novice, thank you in advance.

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

I have only made raised panel cafe doors one time and I just made 5/8" thick raised panel doors and glued them up back to back. It worked great for me. I hope this helps! Thanks, Wes

[@englewood1957]

Double width can cause problems when you split it and the pieces distort... Where's the vacuum system?? Pay more attention to grain direction...

[@tjhart1011]

I’m trying to match the profile of an existing drawer front. Is there an easy way to do that? Or what would be the best way to accomplish this. Thank you

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

Hi... that is a hard question to answer without seeing the drawer face. I assume by your question, you are referring to the edge detail. I suggest trying to match a router bit to the profile. Hope this helps. Wes

[@darrelgray8883]

Darrel Gray Wes, great video as always!! Could you tell me the name and model number of the clamps you use on the router. Thanks

[@WoodworkingWithWes]

They are on Amazon...Shop Fox Heavy Duty long reach bar clamps D2916. Thanks for watching. Wes

[@AlbeTurner]

How does the D2916 w/ 12” capacity work for a 14” wide door frame?

[@StarfishPrime7]

Good helpful tips…but not even a riving knife on the table saw?

[@garrettp.5018]

What are you doing prior to prep the boards? Lumber yard doesn’t exactly sell flat/parallel and true pieces…