How I Paint Things - WW2 British and Commonwealth Infantry

[@NSYresearch]

Blanco was a brand name for a webbing preservative. The introduction of the 1908 pattern webbing equipment ment it had to be used to prevent rotting in ANY environment. Previously the leather equipment had been treated with other oil type feeds.

[@scotsbillhicks]

I started a batch of WW2 commonwealth infantry yesterday. I go with the FoW painting guide so that means ‘English’ uniform. The bottle has sat for a long time so even after quite a shake it had separated a lot, and yes there was a strong green component. FoW advocates Brown Violet for Canadian uniforms.

[@theenigmaticgamer]

Just about to start painting my first unit of late war British, thanks for a very helpful video 👍

[@fsr170409]

After watching your video several times I decided to try out the colours you have used on my 1.35 Tamiya British Infantry on patrol. So three went into your colour scheme and two went into English uniform. Both were later dry brushed with US field drab and you are so right, the English uniform does come up rather Green. I can also back you up on the WW2 Battle dress as I wore it when I was a young cadet back in the Late sixties and it seemed more Brown than Green. Old stock I guess from the National service days. Thanks for posting great vid and great inspiration. By the way how about doing a late war German.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I didn't think I was going mad... that English Uniform really is a little too green, right? I think if it were scaled up it wouldn't look quite as noticeable, but on our miniatures it stands out far too much so! I've got a couple Germans primed in grey waiting for their turn on the desk, as it happens. ;D

[@fsr170409]

Thanks for your reply. I did paint some 40mm white metal figures for a friends 7mm 0 gauge model railway layout as a test bed before I started on my figures using English uniform and it wasn't too bad when we put them onto their respective places.These are viewed at about three feet away, but I still think the darker shade looks warmer and battle worn. Looking forward to seeing your Germans thanks once again for the inspiration. @@SonicSledgehammerStudio

[@babtou8335]

Very useful tutorial, thanks

[@Lowehomie121]

I love your content. I recently got into this game and I really enjoy painting the minis but I can seem to get Agrax Earthshade to dry exactly the way I want. It leaves brown smudges all over the mini instead of the recesses. I try and not let it pool on the mini but it seems like it just dries wherever it wants, most annoyingly on the face of the mini and he looks all dirty. Anyways, thanks for the videos, you are truly a great teacher. I love hearing what you are thinking and why you paint things the way you do.

[@longriflem14]

Hey Sledgehammer your videos are awsome for a newbie to painting. And I was thinking and just curious as a budding model figure painter, could you possibly make a video on how this relates to 1/35 British/Canadian Figures as that is a common scale. I cannot figure it out and looks like my Daughter's Coloring book. I have watched some of the other videos and they are WAY WAY above Beginner and mostly German. I think something like that would be helpful to the Community. Thanks and happy new year.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I'd love to, but I can tell you from trying it myself a couple of times that the methods here don't necessarily transfer up the scales very well! I've tried painting a couple of larger Tamiya infantry figures at 1/35 and I just could not figure out how to get them looking the way I wanted. There might be others with more insight, but I'm afraid it's one thing I can say I'm honestly just not that great at!

[@jacobparsons4611]

Really liking the look of these artizan designs miniatures, what are they like quality wise, can anyone recommend?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I tend to find they're a little thinner than other manufacturers like Warlord Games, Crusader or Black Tree Designs, but not by so much that they look strange. They fit well with those other ranges and there's some nice poses in their lineup.

[@stevesandford1437]

Artisan Designs are REALLY GOOD as 28/32mm LARGER Minis... Their sculpts are REALLY CHARACTERFUL around things like THE FACE; the animation is SUPERB and AS YOU'D EXPECT and they are always PERFECTLY historically accurate... (The SCULPTOR is a guy called MIKE OWEN, and he seems to INHABIT his subjects in that EACH MINI is an INDIVIDUAL...) I'm a BIG FAN of ARTISAN and I'd reccommend them!!! xx SF

[@Rhinexing]

I agree with the other comments regarding Artizan Designs minis. I like to mix different manufacturers together in my armies for greater variety. The majority of my Normandy-era Canadian army is made up of Artizan & Black Tree Design. Both have very good sculpts, & have a lot.of character. The quality, especially of the Artizan minis, was fantastic. I think you'll be pleased.

[@davidlarge8894]

The shape of that figures face makes me die laughing reminds me of Stanley Holloway and the helmet is all wrong .

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

The Artizan figures do have a pretty standard case of :[ face, but I'm not sure how the Mk II helmet is wrong.

[@stevepickering5978]

Jolly good Sir bravo

[@liberator2408]

Very nicely done

[@cesarhernandez2374]

Im sorry if im bothering you but can you give me a list of everything you used for the figure

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Flat Earth/US Field Drab for the uniform, Flat Brown for any wooden details, Russian Green for his helmet, GW's Cadian Fleshtone and Kislev Flesh for highlights on it, Rakarth Flesh for his webbing. You might also try Death Guard Green for the webbing if you're aiming for the greener blanco shade!

[@guylawrance2216]

English uniforms were Khaki thats why the uniforms were nicknamed ‘your khakis’. They were only ever brown in hand coloured photographs and on bad box art. They were always on the green side not he brown side. Look at old episodes of ‘Dad Army’ or ‘It aint half hot,mum’ for the authentic colours.

[@arschieeesss]

From what I've seen, mostly from ww1, uniforms could be a fairly wide variety of colours, ranging from green to brown and everything in between, most manufacturers didn't have any reference for colour and were just mixing what they thought was ok

[@guylawrance2216]

Arc if Yes you are right of course, some were very green and some very brown dependant on the shade of material they could get but ‘Khaki’ was mean’t to be something in the middle not exactly green not exactly brown. The khaki or British uniform paints available need a touch of Russian uniform green added to them to be pleasing I think. You could add varying amounts of green for each few that you paint and slightly change the tints between jacket and trousers and helmets for a really subtle authentic unit.

[@guylawrance2216]

In the 1940’s uniform colours were anything but uniform ! They didn’t become a standard shade until well into the sixties 👍

[@georgesaint4417]

Very nice.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Thank you kindly!

[@stevejones6762]

I've seen someone mix up the webbing colour just to add a variety- looked quite good

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Oh, man... The battles I've seen unfold in comments sections in some communities about the colour of webbing during different years of the war! Mind you, I'm inclined to agree; a handful of 'new' colours in a unit helps make them look like they've been sent replacements and fresh gear, so it's good for a later period force rather than everybody marching out in the same fancy kit.

[@nikolasiwanus4009]

Guessing we would use the same Flat Earth to say represent Polish Forces at Monte Cassino?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Yup! It'll also work for any Free French Forces in British kit, too. ;D

[@wallyjohns9417]

What color did u prime them ?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

You know, I honestly don't remember. I think he was primed grey and then given a couple coats of Flat Earth.