How I Plan My Vintage Sewing - My Process (How To Build A Vintage Style Wardrobe)

How to build a vintage style wardrobe? Today I go through my general sewing process step by step, and outline how I plan my vintage sewing projects!
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(yes...I had to re-upload because of a typo, I am the worst!)

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Sorry to all who noticed this video had popped up twice, I had to re-upload! Clearly I should never try to edit while hangry ;)

[@bluejay5531]

:-)) I did see your video as I got up at 4:30 here in Italy and while keeping it for my second coffee...noticed it just reappeared!! xxx

[@TheClosetHistorian]

So early! I would need a lot of coffee indeed!

[@bluejay5531]

@@TheClosetHistorian buongiorno Bianca bella! ha ha yes it was not planned, sometimes I just awake like that and there is no way I can sleep...coffee ready now to the treat of your video! xxx

[@aspassiaman9081]

It is very nice that you suggest we can make our clothes as if they were to last forever. It can be done. The vintage clothes we buy today, they were made with this purpose from women of 70 yeears ago. We can do it too. It is a different way to think about yourself, about life, the future generations, the opposite of what Zara and H&M propose.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Exactly!! Might as well have garments that last after going through all the effort of making them :)

[@davidhutchison3343]

I so agree with you. The effort involved to sew your own garment leads me to use the better quality fabric, so that I get the wear out of the garment. Sewing vintage also means that it will not "go out of style" next season, so you can get years of use out of it. Happy sewing.

[@tigermoon44]

The bangs, the black hair and your total look is just stunning!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@KetogenicKim]

My cousin combined patterns back in 1980 for my wedding gown. The wedding gown lasted, the marriage did not. I still love the gown.. 😉

[@MrsYasha1984]

oh! almost forgot to thank you for the tip about letting the skirt hang a bit before hemming! sounds logical, but I've never thought about it! 🤔😊

[@TheClosetHistorian]

It is an easy one to miss, I feel like not enough people mention it!

[@Iheardyoulikeplants]

I really enjoy these two sewing books: Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book by Gretchen Hirsch, and Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide. The dress book has multi-sized bodice, sleeve and skirt patterns to trace and combine into your own custom 50s inspired dress. The fabric sewing guide is just that! It is just packed full of information about types of fabrics, how to care for them, and what kinds of garments they are best suited for (hahahaha pun totally intended). I recommend everything by Claire Shaeffer actually, but I recommend that particular one for people who want more info on how to successfully work with fabrics. Check your local library!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Excellent recommendations! I have a few Claire Shaeffer books on my shelf, and though I haven't looked through any of Gertie's books she is very skilled seamstress and yet still seems very approachable too and has always shared great advice on her blog!

[@LindaUrsin]

Pattern drafting is definitely a great skill to have. Especially when you don't fit into the "normal" sizes. I've started learning and I've made some initial patterns.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

That's awesome! And it is totally great for making things just your size. I was always between sizes for commercial patterns (or rather, just multiple sizes-- since my bust matched one size, my waist another, etc.).

[@LindaUrsin]

@@TheClosetHistorian Yes, it is. I have the same issue. Bust one size, the rest another, plus being short :)

[@SarahBent]

I've just this summer starting to draft or alter patterns this summer. It's great because I don't have a typical body type. My biggest aid and something I'd never heard of was a French Curve. It's looks like a comma and makes it so much easy to work with body shapes.

[@LindaUrsin]

@@SarahBent I've ordered one of those but it hasn't arrived yet. Expecting it any day now so I'm holding off on finishing the coat pattern until it's here

[@aspassiaman9081]

I agree with everything you said, especially about the order of tasks in sewing and the ironing in all the stages. You don't make trousers (as far as I can see) but especially trousers are improssible to make without the ironing of the back seam, it's too important. If there are any viewers who make clothes for dolls (like I do for Barbie, with every fabric than can be haddled for small scale garments), the order of sewing is different there, follow the istructions of the pattern company, they know what they say . Your hair are very nice in this dark brown. They look natural. Very elegant.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! You are correct that I don't make trousers,.I have made exactly one pair ever, and that was because I had to for class ;) The fashion designer Jason Wu started his career designing for dolls, so clearly all the skills are translatable! I can't imagine sewing at that scale, it must require considerable skill and patience!

[@aspassiaman9081]

@@TheClosetHistorian , yes, it takes patience, especially the ironing οf the seams ☺

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I can't even imagine!

[@amaliekvam9662]

Love your hair like this!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Amalie!

[@stephaniemorey8351]

I've been sewing for years, ok, decades, I'm old, and I did not know that about hanging a dress before hemming. Thank you. Great lipstick!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Stephanie!

[@StarspangledHeart]

I picked up a used pattern drafting text book and it’s been super helpful. I don’t usually draft from scratch but I can modify existing patterns pretty easily and that’s been really fun.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Yes! Modifying patterns is such a good place to start with pattern drafting! Also, I imagine older editions of pattern drafting textbooks can probably be picked up pretty reasonably.

[@susanskidmore9516]

Thank you for a "wonderful" presentation full of useful information. Absolutely loved it and will recommend to others. You live it and breath it, so it's easy to learn from you. BTW: "Sure Fit Designs" system for drafting ones' own patterns is a huge game changer for creativity. My first two projects implementing those skills were very involved vintage blouses. Hugely successful.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Susan!

[@cherst1031]

I'm sure you learned a lot more than just pattern drafting, so your education was worthwhile :) Thank you for sharing this process, it is inspiring me to attempt garment sewing after avoiding it for many years.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I hope so, but I'm pretty sure I forgot most of the geology and chemistry lab stuff I also had to take ;)

[@ashleymainmakes]

Very helpful! I would definately appreciate an in depth video on the seam finishing methods you mentioned and what you would typically see them on. It's seems alot more authentic to finish them without a serger, but I have just been pinking

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Ashley! A seam finishing video is certainly something I could do! I'll put it on the 'ol list :)

[@Mnrusty1]

Great process discussion on planning sewing projects. Thank you! Please don’t regret the education path you pursued at college. You definitely gained many skills besides apparel design! Sometimes we don’t see or know the benefits of something we’ve pursued until years later. I took a job in IT at my company and after 6 months thought it was one of the worst decisions I’d made in my career. In the end my professional skillset grew more from that job than other jobs I had adored in my working life. In retirement now, I continue to leverage skills from that IT job for my town planning commission role and other organizations I belong to. Embrace the education you pursued and continue to build on it and augment it as you discover new passions in life.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I will try, but it's hard when mostly my education just feels like a whole lot of debt I shouldn't have taken on so young. Nothing I can do about it now though, so forward is the only direction!

[@maureencullen1008]

It would be lovely to see a tutorial of making one of your dresses.I'm sure there are enough sewing patterns to be able to buy a. Similar one.it would just be fascinating to actually see you sew a garment completely.loved the fabric of the dress you were wearing.l would have loved to see what it looked like.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I have plans to start documenting my makes, and one-day-make sort of videos where I sew a project in a day and stuff, so stay tuned as it's coming soon! I actually took pictures of the outfit I wore this day that can be seen on my blog or instagram theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/2018/11/through-grapevine.html

[@602redroses]

Very good info. I love the material of the dress you are wearing.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! The fabric of this dress was an awesome find on Etsy a few years ago, I still have enough left over to make a blouse too one day :)

[@kimberlysneden6882]

I love the material on your outfit today!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kimberly!

[@radkah.6426]

Your hair looks gorgeous!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Radka!

[@eparke20]

Your comment about student loans cracked me up 😂 This coming from someone with a degree in Fibers (textile design)

[@thegoodlife6061]

I just started sewing last December 2017 and I have made over 30 vintage/retro-vintage and modern garments from sewing patterns. I just had a Memo Board made out of French Toile fabric to place my future patterns so I can see them and I decided to start a Bullet Sewing Journal which I keep details pattern list, seasons ; fall/ winter or spring/summer , pattern number and xerox photo of the garment I am working on. I also had my body pattern block pattern made of my body measurements, therefore, I can adjust a vintage pattern because I am sewing with a pattern over 78 years old. Thus far, I do not do mock up because I have my body block and I just take all the tissue to measure against it. I have been wearing my vintage made wardrobe and I just adore my makes which I also wear vintage under garments of slips which is over 70 years old which was gifted to me by a friend. I decide to wear my vintage garments when I am out of the house on dinner dates with friends, dinner at friends or my home, just staying from my home for many hours. I receive a lot of very nice compliments on my makes and I just adore the ability to make my own vintage and modern garments learning how to sew in 1 year. I owned over 250 vintage patterns dating back to 1880's FF and never been used which amazes me. Great video

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! This all sounds like marvelous fun indeed!

[@narelleworks8448]

I am loving your look. The dress material looks gorgeous. Wish you would show it off. With luck I will find it in another video. Thank you for your wise advice! 💜🐨🐠🇦🇺

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Narelle! You can see this dress in full over on my blog if you would like here theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/2018/11/through-grapevine.html It is one of my favorites! I actually have a skirt in the same fabric too

[@narelleworks8448]

TheClosetHistorian Thank you so much for the link. It's even better than expected. Fabulous accessories too. I can only say that you've selected the ensemble perfectly. Wow!

[@KimberlyDurrMusic]

🌸💕HEY SWEETIE, HOPE YOU ARE HAVE A WONDERFUL WEEKEND, LOVE YOUR DRESS, YOUR LOOK, THANKS SO MUCH FOR SHARING THIS INFORMATION.🙋🏾‍♀️🌸💕🦄💓💙🎶💛🎵🏖🎼🌴

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kim!

[@newtoatheism5968]

Oh I should add. a sewing project list in my bullet journal once i get better

[@krystal-mariegonzalez1278]

Aw yay I can finally view the video lol I love these types of videos and it's very informational for me- a person wanting to take my sewing to the next level! I can't wait for more videos 😊

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I had to re-upload after I noticed a typo...I should know better than to edit when I'm tired!

[@kittybrowning]

I learnt the basic pattern drafting thru you tube and sewing in general the mock up thingy I do some mock ups but if I'm working with a knit not a woven it's a bit harder as the fabric doesn't behave the same way

[@kikiadams801]

I agreed with everything you said in this video. I'm beginning to draft my own patterns, mostly because there I just couldn't find what I was looking for, or no one had any info (aka I couldn't find it on google). The biggest frustration I'm having right now is trying to find info on how to make foundation garments so that I don't have to look for sister sizes or won't have a difficult time trying to find a girdle that's smaller than my waist size (the vintage girdles on etsy can be super expensive😫😅).

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kiki! I have never tried to make foundation garments, let alone draft them! Well, except for corsetry I suppose, but I have only ever made historic corsetry, nothing remotely modern. It sounds challenging, but sure would be rewarding. Blogger Tasha of the excellent blog By Gum,By Golly makes her own bras and always goes into great detail of her process so her work may be worth checking out if you look into bra making too.

[@kikiadams801]

+TheClosetHistorian Thank you. I'll be looking into her blog then. 😊😊

[@MrsYasha1984]

a girl after my taste! I can't tell you anything about girdles yet, but I've done historical corsets, bras and long line bras. I think girdles could be easier, I plan to make a slightly forming suspender belt out of power net and some non elastic cotton. If you know the materials used in bras and the techniques that are used for these materials, a girdle should be doable with some try and error. You can look up techniques in bra sewing tutorials, there are some good ones free on the internet or, in the meantime, you could try a vintage-y underwear brand like Rago. I don't think they try to be super vintage on purpose, but the shapewear gives off the right vibe for me. I love their suspender belt.

[@kikiadams801]

+Manuela Glavas Thank you! I've been looking at power mesh too. 😊😊

[@22mendonca]

I adore all of your clothes that you make hun! Great tips, thanks. xxx

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@MrsYasha1984]

I learned to draft patterns from books. later, I just draped a generic pattern on my body, and together with said books, I can do almost everything. where I still buy patterns is for jersey designs, just because I don't have lot of experience with jersey yet, so it helps to have a starting point. oh, and I recently gave "truly victorian" a lot of my money, so I can do my 1889 project from a truly historical starting point with their patterns. After years of only sewing my own patterns, this is a lot of fun! Not having to think everything through myself is kinda relaxing 😁

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Yes! It sounds very close to my own system. I think the last "commercial" pattern I used was also a Truly Victorian pattern funny enough, though it was a few years ago!

[@MrsYasha1984]

@@TheClosetHistorian well, their products are quite "niche" :). I am very happy with their patterns. But the big whoop (the complicated bodice, where the fitting will be the most important) is still some layers into the future, so I'll see how much I'll have to curse to get it to fit :) but the sizing they have is an innovative system, so it will be interesting. for "modern" inspired clothes (after WW1 for me, yes I know I am strange), there is just no going back to bought patterns, except for reference purposes. Just too much hassle to get it to the fit I want.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I feel exactly the same way, I can just rely on self drafted patterns to fit which saves so much time!

[@bluejay5531]

Loved this Bianca! I sincerely think it is such a wonderful skill to have, and it is on my bucket list. I really think that pattern drafting is an essential skill to have! I guess that one huge issue I have with the (many) things I am trying/planning to learn on my own is that they tend to get side-tracked by life, as opposed to something that I am following a course I paid for and need to show up. But maybe that is just my lack of discipline + my renaissance attitude to life where I want to follow too many things self-taught ha ha ha I wonder if you would be interested in showing us - maybe not and I totally get it - some tips and tricks and steps of how to fit garments by yourself, as I am really really interested into creating well fitting vintage inspired garments and do not have anyone to help me with this and that seems like the most difficult part, the fitting part. have a great weekend bellissima, love your look and top/dress, lovely colours and pattern.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! All the many things I am trying to do get side tracked by life too, and it's so irritating! I am only just now learning to be a bit more patient with myself in this regard and stop beating myself up so much for not always being as perfectly disciplined as I would like to be. I really want to figure out a way to teach pattern drafting on my channel. I feel I know a bit less about fitting in general since I have only really ever fit things to my own body and am only familiar with my own fit issues. Proper tailoring/fitting skills are something I would love to learn myself one day!

[@marjoriebd3326]

I would love to see some of the things you have sewn! Have you done a video like this? Also, your channel is awesome.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Marjorie! I have not done a video on items I have sewn because I have made over a hundred things over the years, and it would be a veeerrrry long video indeed. Most of my lookbook videos feature items I have sewn, and all my projects can be seen over on my blog as well :)

[@vmontgomery80]

You look beautiful, love your hair❤️ great info.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@LizzGiselle]

This is shamefully unrelated to sewing, but....can you tell us what lipstick you're wearing here!? It looks like such a nice warm-toned dark red. I find it hard to find vintage-style dark reds that don't lean too purple-ey.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

This is the shade Ribbon from the brand Colourpop, but sadly (and I am bummed believe me as I LOVE this color) it was limited edition and no longer available!

[@LizzGiselle]

Curses!! The search for a dupe begins. :)

[@newtoatheism5968]

I always forget to wash the fabric but I usually don’t have problems with shrinking plus’s most of the fabric I get is already washed they are sheets mostly I’m working on finishing my seams so they don’t frey

[@TheRossspija]

I want to make a wedding guest dress for the wedding we attend following spring. I have trouble deciding which fabric/style/pattern/accessories to pick. Any tips on where to look up how people would style themselves for the events back in 40s and 50s?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

This is such an interesting question! I have two suggestions, firstly perhaps look into vintage etiquette guides as they may detail these things, or also try just searching for vintage photographs of weddings and check out what the other guests in the background are wearing. I think the most important thing to balance is staying true to your own vintage look, but also being careful to not draw too much attention as it it supposed to be the bride's "day". So perhaps a modern wedding is not the time for elaborate vintage hats and the really full vintage "look", even if that would have been appropriate back in the forties. Rather a more subtle version with a cleaner or more subdued style hat and gloves etc. and a rayon dress. Unless it is a vintage themed wedding, then go to town I'd say! The time of the wedding matters too I suppose, as a morning or day wedding calls for a different level of formality than an evening event. I think a rayon crepe dress would word for either if styled correctly, and could even transition from day to night by switching the accessories and jewelry.

[@RhymingMime]

i respect your lack of denial of how unnecessary fashion school is. I tend to avoid all technique classes (because... youtube) in favor of more theory/conceptual classes. I'm only halfway in denial hahaha

[@TheClosetHistorian]

It is certainly nice and all, having a structured environment to learn things and in a way being "forced" to learn certain skills in class, but you can learn a lottt of things on the internet these days for much cheaper!

[@StellaMariaGiulia]

Your video is very apropos! How did you know? 😆 I have probably chosen the worst afternoon to start my Christmas dress, I need to add sleeves/modify shoulders and do my first full bust adjustment to the pattern, I'm probably way over my head and I'm feeling poorly. Can't concentrate!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

You can do it! Finally doing a full bust adjustment on my bodice pattern a few years ago was so incredibly worth it too, though I am no fitting expert by any means. If you need some extra fit resources or just a tale of woe involving 7 different muslins in pursuit of impossible perfection, I wrote a post all about finally fitting my bodice pattern properly back in February of last year that can be found here theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/2017/02/solving-bodice-fit-issues-with-help.html

[@StellaMariaGiulia]

TheClosetHistorian oh, thank you! I’ll definitely read it ❤️

[@Lele15728]

Loved this video and love your look! Do you sew your own outerwear and/or suits too? I just wondered if you tailored as I know you buy these garments anyway. ♥️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Lele! I have made a few suits before, but I really just do not know how to tailor the way the seamstresses of the 1940's did. I'd love to learn one day! I wrote about the suit I made in 2016 on my blog here theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/search?q=plaid+suit

[@Lele15728]

TheClosetHistorian thank you for the link. This is all quite interesting!

[@geministargazer9830]

I like to know about authentic vintage fabrics and techniques so I can make my vintage projects as close to the originals as possible so a video about that kind of thing might be nice

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I will definitely be doing an into to textiles video soon so I will include a section on best fabrics to use for repro in that video! :)

[@newtoatheism5968]

I can’t seem to get my hands on patterns so I attempt to draft I’m still confused how to apply the measurements to the paper but I think I’m starting to figure it out

[@ARIOS44]

this is amazing is there a mens outlet

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I have never sewn men's clothing myself, but I know there are vintage style menswear patterns out there too :)

[@newtoatheism5968]

I enjpy the process of hand sewing but once I figure out how to get thread on the bobbin I want to get better at machine sewing

[@newtoatheism5968]

I desperately need an iron I have a mini one but I’m not sure where it went

[@li-ly-li]

Bianca, do you have any experience of sewing with organza and/or mesh? I really want to remake a top that I ~loved~ when I was 17. It had two layers. The base was a pale duck-egg lycra and the overlay was black mesh. An inch of light blue organza ran along the bust. I'm fairly confident I could make a visual match for the materials but I don't know which stitch will keep them from laddering/pulling... Can you advise me? I found someone selling one online a while ago; it's not very clear but (hopefully) here's my pin pin.it/m7ceuztqr2wpdg Thank you ~L

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I haven't worked with either mesh or organza much myself, but I would guess that this top is made of a stretch polyester mesh, not organza. Organza is very stiff and has virtually no stretch to it except on the bias. A mesh like this one from Mood Fabrics is my best guess for a fabric www.moodfabrics.com/black-stretch-polyester-power-mesh-306806. I don't tend to work with knits myself, but I'm sure someone out there has blogged about making their own camisoles and stuff so I would look into that kind of advice. Best of luck with the project!

[@li-ly-li]

@@TheClosetHistorian thank you! I feel more confident now I can ask to see stretch polyester. I had never thought of mesh as a knit. I think the trim was organza because it was like a ribbon, no play in it at all. I've always loved sheer fabrics - I remember being introduced to someone c.2000 as "This is Lily. She never wears solid colours"... Me: "👻 Hi! Pleased to meet you".

[@india1422]

I’m not trying to be snarky. It seems that your decree course was severely lacking in some certain skills. I can’t imagine that something so basic and necessary such as what to do with different fabrics wasn’t included